1 00:00:04,433 --> 00:00:06,249 - 自历史黎明之初 - Islands have attracted human settlement 2 00:00:06,299 --> 00:00:08,466 岛屿就吸引着人类定居 since the dawn of history. 3 00:00:10,144 --> 00:00:13,179 几个世纪以来 不同民族与不同文化 For centuries, different peoples and different cultures 4 00:00:13,229 --> 00:00:15,570 都在远离海岸的地方 have built their communities in places 5 00:00:15,620 --> 00:00:16,870 建立自己的社群 far out to sea. 6 00:00:18,953 --> 00:00:22,172 数百座岛屿簇拥在苏格兰海岸周围 Hundreds of islands cluster around Scotland's coast. 7 00:00:22,222 --> 00:00:25,122 许多岛屿上有繁荣的社区 Many are home to thriving communities. 8 00:00:25,172 --> 00:00:27,848 但更多岛屿无人居住 But many more are uninhabited. 9 00:00:27,898 --> 00:00:30,565 但情况并非总是如此 But that wasn't always the case. 10 00:00:33,935 --> 00:00:36,327 探索是人类的天性 It's a human instinct to explore 11 00:00:36,377 --> 00:00:38,144 遥远岛屿的诱惑力 and the allure of a distant island 12 00:00:38,194 --> 00:00:41,409 对我们远古祖先而言 was just as irresistible to our early ancestors 13 00:00:41,459 --> 00:00:43,292 与对我今天一样不可抗拒 as it is for me today. 14 00:00:44,793 --> 00:00:48,470 所以进行一场跳岛之游毫不辛苦 So it's no hardship to be on an island hopping grand tour 15 00:00:48,520 --> 00:00:50,948 此行将前往北部群岛 which journeys to the Northern Isles, 16 00:00:50,998 --> 00:00:54,081 探索赫布里底群岛 explores the Hebrides, and discovers the secrets 17 00:00:54,131 --> 00:00:57,548 并发掘欧洲某些最偏远地区的秘密 of some of the remotest places in Europe. 18 00:00:59,342 --> 00:01:02,085 这次伟大之旅 我将前往一些极其难抵达的岛屿 For this grand tour, I'm traveling to some extremely 19 00:01:02,135 --> 00:01:05,402 它们远离海岸 距离遥远 hard to reach islands that lie far enough from the coast 20 00:01:05,452 --> 00:01:08,751 在地平线上都难得一见 to be rarely glimpsed on the horizon. 21 00:01:08,801 --> 00:01:11,967 它们实在太偏远 事实上很少有人造访 They're so remote, in fact, that they're seldom visited 22 00:01:12,017 --> 00:01:14,934 甚至日常地图都很少标注 or even mentioned on everyday maps. 23 00:01:30,481 --> 00:01:33,272 我的旅程带我前往曾有人居住的 My journey takes me to the once inhabited island of 24 00:01:33,322 --> 00:01:36,620 海斯盖尔岛 攀登哈里斯岛最高峰 Heisgeir, scales the highest mountain on Harris, 25 00:01:36,670 --> 00:01:39,507 环绕苏拉斯基尔岛的鲣鸟之城航行 sails around the gannet city of Sula Sgeir 26 00:01:39,557 --> 00:01:42,824 并最终登陆异常偏远的 and makes final landfall on the extraordinarily 27 00:01:42,874 --> 00:01:45,207 北罗纳岛 remote island of North Rona. 28 00:01:46,966 --> 00:01:48,566 这对我来说将会是最艰难的 This is gonna be one of the most difficult 29 00:01:48,616 --> 00:01:52,179 盛大之旅之一 因为每个岛屿目的地 grand tours to me because every island destination 30 00:01:52,229 --> 00:01:55,193 都无人居住 所以没有渡轮 is uninhabited, so there are no ferries 31 00:01:55,243 --> 00:01:57,098 也没有合适的码头 and there are no proper piers. 32 00:01:57,148 --> 00:02:00,002 更糟糕的是 苏格兰相当 And to make matters even worse, Scotland's rather 33 00:02:00,052 --> 00:02:02,193 不可预测的天气意味着我可能 unpredictable weather means that I might 34 00:02:02,243 --> 00:02:03,924 根本去不了任何 not even get to any of the islands 35 00:02:03,974 --> 00:02:07,057 我想探索的岛屿 但仍有希望 I want to explore, but here's hoping. 36 00:02:08,944 --> 00:02:10,989 今天 我航行至尤伊斯特群岛以西 Today, I'm sailing west of the Uists 37 00:02:11,039 --> 00:02:13,875 进入大西洋10英里处 and 10 miles out into the Atlantic, 38 00:02:13,925 --> 00:02:16,910 前往一群如今无人居住的岛屿 heading towards a group of now uninhabited islands 39 00:02:16,960 --> 00:02:19,293 盖尔语中称为海斯盖尔 known in Gaelic as Heisgeir. 40 00:02:21,366 --> 00:02:22,864 与我同行的是一群 Joining me is a group of people with 41 00:02:22,914 --> 00:02:25,247 与海斯盖尔有深厚联系的人 strong Heisgeir connections. 42 00:02:26,452 --> 00:02:29,319 安格斯·莫伊是岛上最后的幸存者 Angus Moy is the island's last survivor. 43 00:02:29,369 --> 00:02:31,536 他1932年出生在那里 He was born there in 1932. 44 00:02:32,933 --> 00:02:35,030 与他同行的还有他的孩子们 Traveling with him are his children, 45 00:02:35,080 --> 00:02:39,517 其中一些人从未踏足过这座岛屿 some of whom have never visited the island before. 46 00:02:39,567 --> 00:02:42,356 朱莉·福利斯是著名的盖尔语歌手 Julie Fowlis is a renowned Gaelic signer. 47 00:02:42,406 --> 00:02:44,319 她的渊源深厚 Her connections run deep. 48 00:02:44,369 --> 00:02:46,580 她的曾曾祖母出生在岛上 Her great great grandmother was born in a croft 49 00:02:46,630 --> 00:02:47,797 的一处小农场 on the island. 50 00:02:48,971 --> 00:02:51,957 对帕德鲁格·莫里森来说 这次旅行是 For Padruig Morrison, this trip is a pilgrimage 51 00:02:52,007 --> 00:02:54,102 前往他父系家族的朝圣之旅 to his father's family. 52 00:02:54,152 --> 00:02:58,319 他们是最后一批永久居住在海斯盖尔的人 They were the last people to live permanently on Heisgeir. 53 00:03:09,154 --> 00:03:11,411 海斯盖尔 也被称为莫纳赫群岛 Heisgeir, also known as the Monachs, 54 00:03:11,461 --> 00:03:15,244 实际上是由三座岛屿在退潮时连接而成 is actually three islands linked together at low tide, 55 00:03:15,294 --> 00:03:19,299 使得人们可以在岛屿间行走 making it possible to walk from one to the other. 56 00:03:19,349 --> 00:03:22,946 一个世纪前 有超过100人居住在这里 A century ago, over 100 people lived here 57 00:03:22,996 --> 00:03:26,871 但村庄最终在1950年代初被废弃 but the village was finally abandoned in the early 1950s, 58 00:03:26,921 --> 00:03:30,585 灯塔关闭几年后 a few years after the lighthouse closed. 59 00:03:30,635 --> 00:03:34,718 如今 这里与外界相当隔绝 Today, it is quite cutoff from the outside world. 60 00:03:36,905 --> 00:03:40,005 海斯盖尔上没有码头或突堤 There's no pier or jetty on Heisgeir. 61 00:03:40,055 --> 00:03:42,499 缺乏合适的登陆点 给岛民的生活 Lack of a proper landing stage, didn't make life 62 00:03:42,549 --> 00:03:44,466 带来了不便 easy for the islanders. 63 00:03:46,655 --> 00:03:48,999 如今当然也没有更容易 尽管我们团队中 And it's certainly no easier today, although some 64 00:03:49,049 --> 00:03:53,666 一些年长者似乎应付得相当不错 seniors in our group seem to be managing rather well. 65 00:03:53,716 --> 00:03:55,238 - 干杯！ - Cheers! 66 00:03:57,879 --> 00:04:00,236 - 最终 各式各样的家庭成员 - Eventually, an assortment of family members, 67 00:04:00,286 --> 00:04:04,808 朋友 狗和乐器都安全上岸 friends, dogs, and musical instruments are safely ashore. 68 00:04:04,858 --> 00:04:09,243 对安格斯·莫伊来说 这是他多年来的首次重访 For Angus Moy, this is his first visit for many years. 69 00:04:09,293 --> 00:04:10,928 回来的感觉怎么样 安格斯？ What's it like coming back, though, Angus? 70 00:04:10,978 --> 00:04:12,561 - 哦 回来太好了 - Oh, it's great coming back. 71 00:04:12,611 --> 00:04:14,843 你能感受到一些东西 You feel something. 72 00:04:14,893 --> 00:04:17,156 岛上有某种东西让你 There's something on the island that makes you 73 00:04:17,206 --> 00:04:18,313 心生感触 feel something. 74 00:04:18,363 --> 00:04:20,375 - 是这个地方的氛围 - It's the atmosphere of the place. 75 00:04:20,425 --> 00:04:23,525 它一定存在于某处 It must be somewhere out. 76 00:04:23,575 --> 00:04:25,014 是个非常非常美丽的地方 It's a beautiful beautiful place. 77 00:04:25,064 --> 00:04:26,608 - 哦 是的 - Oh, it is. 78 00:04:26,658 --> 00:04:29,198 那是一种美妙的生活 It was a wonderful life. 79 00:04:29,248 --> 00:04:31,759 我的意思是 我们的生活比起 I mean, what a life we had if compared 80 00:04:31,809 --> 00:04:33,559 现在的孩子们好多了 to the kids nowadays. 81 00:04:34,568 --> 00:04:36,480 你总是有事可做 You always had something to do, 82 00:04:36,530 --> 00:04:39,912 比如喂鸡喂鸭 照看羊群 like feeding hens and ducks and after sheep 83 00:04:39,962 --> 00:04:43,164 把牛带回家 挤牛奶等等 and taking home the cows and milking and, 84 00:04:43,214 --> 00:04:46,776 你从很小的时候就开始做所有事情 you did everything from the time you were so so big. 85 00:04:48,494 --> 00:04:49,922 - 那些日子你从不觉得无聊 - You never got bored in those days. 86 00:04:49,972 --> 00:04:50,805 - 从不 - No. 87 00:04:53,074 --> 00:04:56,740 - 安格斯记得海斯盖尔是个非常肥沃的岛屿 - Angus remembers Heisgeir as a very fertile island. 88 00:04:56,790 --> 00:05:00,430 土地用马犁耕 一直开到沙滩线 The land was plowed by horse, right up to the sand line 89 00:05:00,480 --> 00:05:02,856 面包是用岛上种植和磨制的 and bread was baked from oats that were grown 90 00:05:02,906 --> 00:05:04,989 燕麦烘烤而成 and milled on the island. 91 00:05:06,439 --> 00:05:08,615 令人惊奇的是 安格斯认识 It's amazing to think that Angus knew many 92 00:05:08,665 --> 00:05:11,533 这些照片中的许多人 of the people in these photographs. 93 00:05:11,583 --> 00:05:14,757 他们仿佛来自另一个时代 They seem to come from another age. 94 00:05:14,807 --> 00:05:17,753 对女儿艾奥娜来说 这是她第一次 For daughter Iona, this is her first visit 95 00:05:17,803 --> 00:05:20,310 来到她父亲的出生地 to her father's birth place. 96 00:05:20,360 --> 00:05:21,673 - 太神奇了 - It's amazing. 97 00:05:21,723 --> 00:05:25,243 我感觉 虽然我从未来过这里 I just feel like, you know, I've never been before, 98 00:05:25,293 --> 00:05:28,143 从未在这里生活过 但因为它是 I've never lived here before, but because it's such 99 00:05:28,193 --> 00:05:32,360 父亲生活中如此重要的一部分 我们总是谈起它 a big part of dad's life and we've always spoken about it. 100 00:05:33,249 --> 00:05:37,921 我感觉 我甚至不知道 比兴奋更甚 I just feel like, I don't even know, more than excited. 101 00:05:37,971 --> 00:05:38,883 - 我能想象 - I can imagine. 102 00:05:38,933 --> 00:05:41,053 - 这就像真正的回家 - This is like really coming home. 103 00:05:41,103 --> 00:05:44,100 - 那边被覆盖的是教堂 - That's the church that's covered over there. 104 00:05:44,150 --> 00:05:48,090 我记得是从那边房子的尽头出来的 Are mind of coming out of the end of that house there. 105 00:05:48,140 --> 00:05:52,169 那时我还是个小孩子 我的奶奶 I was only a wee child at the time and my granny, 106 00:05:52,219 --> 00:05:54,772 她在房子旁边放了一把椅子 she had a chair at the side of the house, 107 00:05:54,822 --> 00:05:58,077 听着从教堂里传出的新闻 listening to the news coming out of that church. 108 00:05:58,127 --> 00:05:59,729 她为什么没在教堂里？ How come she wasn't at church? 109 00:05:59,779 --> 00:06:01,299 - 她在照顾我 - She was looking after me. 110 00:06:01,349 --> 00:06:04,016 我太小了 不能去教堂 I was too young to go to church. 111 00:06:05,113 --> 00:06:09,280 这是个美妙的地方 非常非常美妙的地方 It's a wonderful place, a wonderful wonderful place. 112 00:06:14,073 --> 00:06:17,033 - 留下安格斯·莫伊和他的家人探索他们 - Leaving Angus Moy and his family to explore the ruins 113 00:06:17,083 --> 00:06:20,939 祖居的遗迹 我更多地探索这座美丽岛屿 of their ancestral home, I explore more of this beautiful 114 00:06:20,989 --> 00:06:23,510 它的人类居住历史 island, with a history of human habitation 115 00:06:23,560 --> 00:06:25,227 可追溯至几个世纪前 goes back centuries. 116 00:06:28,282 --> 00:06:32,978 最早居住在这里的是一群修女 Among the first people to live here was a community of nuns. 117 00:06:33,028 --> 00:06:35,740 对于有宗教倾向的女性来说很不寻常的是 Unusually for women of a religious bent, 118 00:06:35,790 --> 00:06:38,890 这些修女不仅以虔诚著称 these nuns were famed as much for their exceptional 119 00:06:38,940 --> 00:06:42,390 同样以其非凡的体力闻名 physical strength as for their piety. 120 00:06:42,440 --> 00:06:45,960 但她们很快将不得不分享她们的岛屿静修地 But they would soon have to share their island retreat. 121 00:06:46,010 --> 00:06:48,639 后来 在10世纪 一群僧侣 Later, in the 10th Century, a group of monks 122 00:06:48,689 --> 00:06:52,540 在希莱小岛上建立了一个社区 established a community on the little island of Shillay, 123 00:06:52,590 --> 00:06:56,180 就是那边 现在立着一座灯塔的地方 over there, where a lighthouse now stands. 124 00:06:56,230 --> 00:06:58,854 但历史没有记录那边的僧侣 But history doesn't record what relations the 125 00:06:58,904 --> 00:07:02,353 与这边的修女关系如何 monks over there had with the nuns over here. 126 00:07:02,403 --> 00:07:05,103 不过 我猜想 这些亚马逊女战士般的女士们 Though, I expect, the Amazonian ladies 127 00:07:05,153 --> 00:07:07,653 能够照顾好自己 could take care of themselves. 128 00:07:14,743 --> 00:07:17,110 当然 岛屿是宗教静修 Of course, an island is the perfect place 129 00:07:17,160 --> 00:07:19,160 的完美场所 for a religious retreat. 130 00:07:20,814 --> 00:07:22,724 但后来定居在这里的人 But the people who settled here later 131 00:07:22,774 --> 00:07:25,053 寻求的并非隐居 weren't looking for seclusion. 132 00:07:25,103 --> 00:07:28,152 他们耕种土地 出海捕鱼 They worked the land and fished the seas 133 00:07:28,202 --> 00:07:31,264 因为能过上优渥的生活 because they could make a good living. 134 00:07:31,314 --> 00:07:34,013 这种生活方式在丰富的岛屿诗歌 A way of life that's been immortalized in the rich 135 00:07:34,063 --> 00:07:37,063 与歌谣传统中得以不朽 tradition of island poems and songs. 136 00:07:49,710 --> 00:07:53,593 朱莉·福利斯是著名的盖尔语歌手兼音乐家 Julie Fowlis is a celebrated Gaelic singer and musician 137 00:07:53,643 --> 00:07:58,270 她的家族在海斯盖尔的根源可追溯数代 whose family roots in Heisgeir go back generations. 138 00:07:58,320 --> 00:07:59,652 我随她一同寻找 I join her to search for her 139 00:07:59,702 --> 00:08:02,350 她曾曾祖母的房屋 great great grandmother's house. 140 00:08:02,400 --> 00:08:04,450 我们有一张很实用的小农庄地图 A very useful crofting map we've got here, 141 00:08:04,500 --> 00:08:06,298 标明了海斯盖尔的所有农场 showing all the crofts on Heisgeir. 142 00:08:06,348 --> 00:08:09,542 你的祖先当时会住在哪里呢？ So where would your ancestors have lived then on this? 143 00:08:09,592 --> 00:08:12,514 - 这个 编号I 实际上就在这里 - Well, this one here, which is I, which is actually here. 144 00:08:12,564 --> 00:08:14,002 是那边那个吗？ That one over there? 145 00:08:14,052 --> 00:08:14,880 是的 Yes. 146 00:08:14,930 --> 00:08:16,490 - 看起来是座相当破败的建筑 - It's a rather tumbled down looking affair. 147 00:08:16,540 --> 00:08:17,573 - 我知道 - I know. 148 00:08:17,623 --> 00:08:19,429 它当年应该是座不错的房子 It would have been a fine house in its day. 149 00:08:19,479 --> 00:08:22,874 我想自家人离开这里已经很久了 I guess it's a long time since my own folks were here. 150 00:08:22,924 --> 00:08:24,102 所以你的血管里流淌着 So you've got Heisgeir blood 151 00:08:24,152 --> 00:08:26,253 海斯盖尔的血液 不是吗？ coursing through veins, haven't you? 152 00:08:26,303 --> 00:08:27,550 我想是的 I suppose so. 153 00:08:27,600 --> 00:08:29,142 - 来到这里有什么感觉？ - What does it feel like coming here? 154 00:08:29,192 --> 00:08:31,018 与祖先产生联结 Getting in touch with the ancestors. 155 00:08:31,068 --> 00:08:32,800 - 哦 回来总是令人愉悦 - Oh, it's always lovely to come back. 156 00:08:32,850 --> 00:08:35,722 比如 每次我来这里 都能真切感受到 Like, every time I come here, you get a real sense 157 00:08:35,772 --> 00:08:39,590 曾经居住在这里的人们 of the, of the people who lived here and 158 00:08:39,640 --> 00:08:40,724 以及他们过的生活 the kind of life that they had. 159 00:08:40,774 --> 00:08:43,719 你会被强烈地提醒这一点 当你听到 You're reminded of that, very sharply when you hear just 160 00:08:43,769 --> 00:08:46,019 他们的生存环境多么边缘 how on the edge they lived. 161 00:08:47,074 --> 00:08:49,003 你能看到房屋都非常紧凑 You can see the houses are very close together. 162 00:08:49,053 --> 00:08:51,574 这里一定是个联系紧密的社区 It must have been a very tight knit community here. 163 00:08:51,624 --> 00:08:53,413 - 我认为确实如此 而且我觉得他们 - I think there certainly was and I think they 164 00:08:53,463 --> 00:08:55,480 必须成为一个紧密的社区 共同劳作 had to be a close knit community working together 165 00:08:55,530 --> 00:08:58,224 才能在这里生存下去 你知道 in order to survive out here, you know. 166 00:08:58,274 --> 00:09:00,711 这里不只是在西部群岛的边缘 It's not just on the edge of the western isles, 167 00:09:00,761 --> 00:09:04,928 也是在苏格兰的边缘 欧洲的边缘 it's on the edge of Scotland, it's on the edge of Europe. 168 00:09:06,240 --> 00:09:08,233 与自然元素的抗争创造了 The struggle against the elements created 169 00:09:08,283 --> 00:09:11,613 独特的节奏 这不仅体现在 its own rhythm, which found expression not just 170 00:09:11,663 --> 00:09:16,004 土地耕作中 也体现在言语与歌谣里 in working the land, but in words and song. 171 00:09:16,054 --> 00:09:18,230 - 生活简单得多 但也艰难得多 - Life was so much simpler and it was a lot harder too. 172 00:09:18,280 --> 00:09:21,814 但由此涌现出大量优美的诗歌 But from that spring, so much beautiful poetry 173 00:09:21,864 --> 00:09:26,103 与歌曲 我认为这里蕴含着非常深刻的东西 and song and I think there's something very deep here, 174 00:09:26,153 --> 00:09:28,152 人们与这片土地 the way that people connected with the landscape 175 00:09:28,202 --> 00:09:30,830 及其环境联结的方式 他们有着深刻的理解 and their environment, they had such an understanding. 176 00:09:30,880 --> 00:09:32,733 他们真正理解土地 理解海洋 They really understood the land, they understood the sea. 177 00:09:32,783 --> 00:09:35,800 存在着一种联结 在岛民 There was a connection there, between the islanders 178 00:09:35,850 --> 00:09:38,003 与其环境之间 这种联结 and their environment that was, 179 00:09:38,053 --> 00:09:40,517 他们必须真正理解自己所处之地 they had to really understand where they were 180 00:09:40,567 --> 00:09:41,845 否则就无法生存 or else they wouldn't have survived. 181 00:09:41,895 --> 00:09:42,878 - 不仅是浪漫的联结—— - Not just a romantic connection-- 182 00:09:42,928 --> 00:09:43,877 - 不止如此 - No it's not. 183 00:09:43,927 --> 00:09:45,729 - 是一种切实的实用联结 同时兼具 - A sound practical connection that also has 184 00:09:45,779 --> 00:09:48,301 这种美妙的 肯定生命的特质 this kind of wonderful, kind of life affirming quality 185 00:09:48,351 --> 00:09:49,841 to it at the same time. 186 00:09:49,891 --> 00:09:52,868 - 是的 从这些联结中迸发出 - Yes, and from that connections sprung, you know, 187 00:09:52,918 --> 00:09:54,251 诗歌与歌谣 poetry and song. 188 00:09:55,976 --> 00:09:57,888 很爱听安格斯讲述他们的故事 Just love to hear Angus's stories of them, 189 00:09:57,938 --> 00:10:00,901 过去就在这片田野上举行的舞会 of the dances that used to happen just in the fields here 190 00:10:00,951 --> 00:10:03,178 他描述道 当时可能会有 and he was describing how there might be 191 00:10:03,228 --> 00:10:04,997 小提琴手或手风琴手 他们会为舞会 a fiddle player or a box player, they would play 192 00:10:05,047 --> 00:10:07,667 演奏 坐在高高的墙头上 for the dances and they would sit high up on the walls 193 00:10:07,717 --> 00:10:10,001 这样乐声能传得更远 他们会演奏一些曲子 so they could be heard and they would play some tunes 194 00:10:10,051 --> 00:10:11,858 人们就会 就在那边 人们 and people would, just over there, and people 195 00:10:11,908 --> 00:10:13,277 就会跳舞 知道吗？ would dance, you know? 196 00:10:13,327 --> 00:10:15,307 这些事真正让 And it, all these things really bring 197 00:10:15,357 --> 00:10:16,618 这个地方鲜活起来 知道吗？ the place to life, you know? 198 00:10:16,668 --> 00:10:18,648 这些墙垣之中仍然留存着某种东西 There's something still there within those walls, 199 00:10:18,698 --> 00:10:20,907 石头之中 依然存在着 within the stone, just has their presence 200 00:10:20,957 --> 00:10:24,407 他们的气息 或许我通过 still there in it and perhaps I feel it more by 201 00:10:24,457 --> 00:10:27,537 阅读歌谣 聆听故事更能感受到它 looking at the songs and listening to the stories, 202 00:10:27,587 --> 00:10:30,022 也许这是一种方式 将它与此地联结 and maybe that is a way to connect it to the place 203 00:10:30,072 --> 00:10:31,962 与这片风景依然联结 and connect it to the landscape still, 204 00:10:32,012 --> 00:10:35,532 尽管这里已空无一人 despite there being no one left here. 205 00:11:05,436 --> 00:11:08,348 - 与世隔绝的海斯盖尔岛上的盖尔语社区 - The Gaelic speaking community on isolated Heisgeir 206 00:11:08,398 --> 00:11:11,951 发现生活日益艰难 found life increasingly difficult. 207 00:11:12,001 --> 00:11:15,079 除了居住在苏格兰最偏远的岛屿之一 As well as living on one of the remotest Scottish islands, 208 00:11:15,129 --> 00:11:19,296 他们还不得不与恶劣的环境抗争 they also had to battle with a hostile environment. 209 00:11:21,292 --> 00:11:24,411 最终 侵蚀导致人们离开海斯盖尔 Eventually, erosion caused an exodus from Heisgeir. 210 00:11:24,461 --> 00:11:27,893 19世纪初 一场可怕的风暴 In the early 19th century, a terrible storm 211 00:11:27,943 --> 00:11:31,075 将大量表层土壤和牧场 swept large amounts of top soil and pasture 212 00:11:31,125 --> 00:11:32,708 彻底冲入大海 clean into the sea. 213 00:11:33,645 --> 00:11:36,432 由于无处种植作物或放牧牲畜 And with nowhere to plan their crops or graze their animals, 214 00:11:36,482 --> 00:11:39,149 人们被迫离开 the people were forced to leave. 215 00:11:41,062 --> 00:11:45,389 到1940年代初 只剩下安格斯·莫伊和他的家人 By the early 1940s, only Angus Moy and his family were left 216 00:11:45,439 --> 00:11:50,101 当他们搬走后 岛上所有房屋都空置了 and when they moved, all the island homes stood empty. 217 00:11:50,151 --> 00:11:54,702 但后来 情况发生了显著转变 人们回来了 But then, in a remarkable turnaround, people came back. 218 00:11:54,752 --> 00:11:58,113 帕德鲁格·莫里森的祖父来自北尤伊斯特的格里姆塞 Padruig Morrison's grandfather from Grimsay in North Uist 219 00:11:58,163 --> 00:12:01,080 梦想着重新定居这座岛屿 had a dream to resettle the island. 220 00:12:02,032 --> 00:12:05,953 - 1945年 第二次世界大战结束后 - In 1945, after the Second World War and after 221 00:12:06,003 --> 00:12:09,253 最后一批家庭于43年离开海斯盖尔后 the last families left Heisgeir in '43, 222 00:12:10,987 --> 00:12:15,473 我的祖父 帕德鲁格·莫里森 他自己 my grandfather, Padruig Morrions, having been, you know, 223 00:12:15,523 --> 00:12:18,255 参加过第一次世界大战 目睹过 away in the First World War himself and he'd seen 224 00:12:18,305 --> 00:12:22,385 世间的诸多暴行 认为这里是 lots of atrocities of the world, saw that this was 225 00:12:22,435 --> 00:12:26,477 一个可爱 肥沃 美丽的地方 作为 a lovely fertile beautiful place and being one 226 00:12:26,527 --> 00:12:29,631 格里姆塞的渔民 他们每年夏天 of the Grimsay fisherman, they came out here 227 00:12:29,681 --> 00:12:33,515 都来这里捕捞龙虾 他认为 every summer to fish for lobsters and he thought 228 00:12:33,565 --> 00:12:35,092 应该重新在此定居 that it should be resettled. 229 00:12:35,142 --> 00:12:36,212 - 所以 他是在这里被废弃后 - So, he was recolonizing the place 230 00:12:36,262 --> 00:12:37,889 重新殖民这个地方？ after it had become abandoned? 231 00:12:37,939 --> 00:12:41,467 - 他说 如果有六户家庭 - He said, if there's half a dozen families 232 00:12:41,517 --> 00:12:45,821 这里就能维持 当时制定了一个计划 it would be viable, and there was this plan made 233 00:12:45,871 --> 00:12:49,092 总共四户家庭 他和其他三户 with four families in total, him and three others, 234 00:12:49,142 --> 00:12:51,771 但到了那天 只有他一家来了 but when it came to the day, only his one went out. 235 00:12:51,821 --> 00:12:52,643 其他人都临阵退缩了 The others chickened out. 236 00:12:52,693 --> 00:12:53,694 - 确实 - They did. 237 00:12:53,744 --> 00:12:55,303 他们对他失去了信心 They lost faith in his dreams. 238 00:12:55,353 --> 00:12:58,091 - 是的 事实上 格里姆塞人当时确实觉得 - Yeah, well, in fact, the Grimsay people did think 239 00:12:58,141 --> 00:12:59,999 这有点疯狂 it was a bit mad at the time. 240 00:13:00,049 --> 00:13:03,485 总之 他们还是来了 运了12趟 Anyways, so out they came, and 12 journeys it took them 241 00:13:03,535 --> 00:13:06,285 才把所有东西运出来 你知道 to take all their stuff out, you know, 242 00:13:06,335 --> 00:13:08,679 他们住的是那边带烟囱的房子 they took the house over there with the chimney on it. 243 00:13:08,729 --> 00:13:10,149 带烟囱的那个 那是他们住的地方？ The one with the chimney, that's where they stayed? 244 00:13:10,199 --> 00:13:12,198 - 他认为 这里可以成立一个合作社 - He thought, you know, there could be this cooperative 245 00:13:12,248 --> 00:13:14,438 人们可以随意捕鱼 here where folks could fish if they wanted to 246 00:13:14,488 --> 00:13:16,799 想务农的人可以务农 or those who wanted to work on the land could do that 247 00:13:16,849 --> 00:13:19,459 他们将共同劳作 在岛上 and they would work together and sustain each other 248 00:13:19,509 --> 00:13:20,495 相互扶持 on the island. 249 00:13:20,545 --> 00:13:24,942 我记得他们养了大约16头牛 16头牛在这里 I think they had about 16 cattle, 16 head of cattle here 250 00:13:24,992 --> 00:13:26,607 过得非常愉快 他们看到 and it was really good fun and they saw the 251 00:13:26,657 --> 00:13:29,147 格里姆塞的渔民夏天进来 Grimsay fishermen coming in in the summer 252 00:13:29,197 --> 00:13:31,854 还会举办聚会 你知道 有小提琴 and there would be parties, you know, with the fiddle 253 00:13:31,904 --> 00:13:33,940 和手风琴演奏 唱歌 讲故事 and the melodeon singing, storytelling, 254 00:13:33,990 --> 00:13:36,907 那种老式的 传统的方式 the old style of it, the tradition. 255 00:13:38,271 --> 00:13:41,410 一些令人惊讶的夏季访客是BBC Some surprising summer visitors were the BBC, 256 00:13:41,460 --> 00:13:43,651 他们来到海斯盖尔制作一档关于 who came to Heisgeir to make a program about 257 00:13:43,701 --> 00:13:47,450 岛屿重居计划进展的节目 how resettling the island was going. 258 00:13:47,500 --> 00:13:51,244 - 他们接待了许多不寻常的访客 其中包括 - They got lots of unusual visitors and one was this, 259 00:13:51,294 --> 00:13:53,484 这档由著名的理查德·丁布尔比 this program that was being done by the famous 260 00:13:53,534 --> 00:13:56,233 制作的节目《走进你的路》—— Richard Dimbleby, Down Your Way came-- 261 00:13:56,283 --> 00:13:57,810 丁布尔比先生本人 Mr. Dimbleby himself. 262 00:13:57,860 --> 00:14:00,624 - 他本人 他采访了当地 - Himself and he was interviewing folk in their own 263 00:14:00,674 --> 00:14:03,373 社区的居民 与我祖父交谈 community and spoke to my grandfather and he, 264 00:14:03,423 --> 00:14:05,439 你知道 解释了他认为这里如何能维持 you know, explained how he thought this could be viable 265 00:14:05,489 --> 00:14:08,291 是个绝佳的居所 and it was a great place to be 266 00:14:08,341 --> 00:14:12,211 如果更多家庭能来就更好了 and it really would be good if more families came out. 267 00:14:12,261 --> 00:14:15,341 然而 它吸引来的 或许并非 And well, what it did attract, was perhaps not 268 00:14:15,391 --> 00:14:17,633 他原本期望的 而是一些剑桥植物学家 what he had in mind, but some Cambridge botanists 269 00:14:17,683 --> 00:14:19,016 前来 他们 came up and they 270 00:14:20,399 --> 00:14:22,413 对这个地方非常感兴趣 事实上 were very interested in the place and in fact, 271 00:14:22,463 --> 00:14:25,963 然后在52年 他们买下了校舍 then, in '52, they bought the schoolhouse. 272 00:14:27,679 --> 00:14:30,584 然而 植物学家无论多热情 都不是 Botanists, however eager, are not the sort of 273 00:14:30,634 --> 00:14:35,291 岛屿社区生存所需的那类迁入者 incomers the island community needed to survive. 274 00:14:35,341 --> 00:14:37,901 他们离开后 这家人的生活 After they left, life from the family became 275 00:14:37,951 --> 00:14:40,753 日益艰难 迫使帕德鲁格的祖父 increasingly difficult, forcing Padruig's grandfather 276 00:14:40,803 --> 00:14:44,886 做出痛苦决定 放弃海斯盖尔 to make the painful decision to abandon Heisgeir. 277 00:14:45,894 --> 00:14:48,154 - 嗯 我想他有些难过 你知道 - Well, I suppose he was a little sad, you know, 278 00:14:48,204 --> 00:14:51,257 但他说那是他一生中最快乐的岁月 but they were the happiest years of his life, he said. 279 00:14:51,307 --> 00:14:54,967 他怀有在这里建立合作社的想法 And he had this idea of a cooperative working here 280 00:14:55,017 --> 00:14:57,067 想捕鱼的人可以捕鱼 where you had those that want to fish, they could fish. 281 00:14:57,117 --> 00:14:59,587 想耕种的人可以耕种 Those that wanted to play the land, they could play the land 282 00:14:59,637 --> 00:15:01,510 人们可以在这里工作 and you would have folk working here. 283 00:15:01,560 --> 00:15:02,387 是个伟大的梦想 It's a great dream. 284 00:15:02,437 --> 00:15:03,927 - 伟大的梦想 伟大的梦想 - Great dream, great dream. 285 00:15:03,977 --> 00:15:06,446 - 这像是社会工程的早期形式 - Is it like a early form of social engineering. 286 00:15:06,496 --> 00:15:09,191 你的祖父 理想的社区 Your grandfather, the ideal community, 287 00:15:09,241 --> 00:15:11,119 在这样一个地方 我意思是 它确实 in a place like this, I mean, it is, 288 00:15:11,169 --> 00:15:13,752 它确实 如今 宛如天堂 it is, now, it's like paradise. 289 00:15:20,530 --> 00:15:23,398 离开田园诗般的海斯盖尔及其众多回忆 Leaving idyllic Heisgeir and its host of memories, 290 00:15:23,448 --> 00:15:27,727 我穿越海洋前往下一个目的地 I head back across the sea to my next destination, 291 00:15:27,777 --> 00:15:29,981 哈里斯岛 在那里我有一个 the isle of Harris, where I have an appointment 292 00:15:30,031 --> 00:15:32,448 与重要山峰的约会 with a summit of consequence. 293 00:15:35,911 --> 00:15:38,540 克利瑟姆是赫布里底群岛的最高峰 Clisham is the highest mountain in the Hebrides. 294 00:15:38,590 --> 00:15:42,021 虽然不算芒罗山 但2600英尺的高度 Thought it's not a Munro, but at 2600 feet, 295 00:15:42,071 --> 00:15:45,738 仍是座相当可观的小山 it's still quite a significant wee mountain. 296 00:15:49,211 --> 00:15:53,119 克利瑟姆的首次有记录攀登是在1817年 The first recorded ascent of Clisham was made in 1817 297 00:15:53,169 --> 00:15:57,104 由一位有赫布里底血统的阿伯丁自然学家 by an Aberdonian naturalist of Hebridean descent, 298 00:15:57,154 --> 00:16:00,450 杰出的威廉·麦吉利夫雷完成 the remarkable William MacGillivray. 299 00:16:00,500 --> 00:16:03,250 威廉·麦吉利夫雷是个非凡的人 William MacGillivray was an extraordinary man 300 00:16:03,300 --> 00:16:05,924 出身极其卑微 who came from the humblest of backgrounds. 301 00:16:05,974 --> 00:16:09,251 他是私生子 出生即遭遗弃 He was illegitimate and then abandoned at birth 302 00:16:09,301 --> 00:16:12,331 但由一位叔叔在哈里斯岛抚养长大 but brought up here on Harris by an uncle. 303 00:16:12,381 --> 00:16:15,850 后来 威廉进入阿伯丁大学 Now, William then went on to Aberdeen University 304 00:16:15,900 --> 00:16:19,033 成为苏格兰最伟大的自然学家之一 where he became one of Scotland's greatest naturalists 305 00:16:19,083 --> 00:16:24,019 他的工作启发并 impressed 了查尔斯·达尔文 毫不逊色 and his work inspired and impressed Charles Darwin, no less. 306 00:16:24,069 --> 00:16:27,657 威廉·麦吉利夫雷也是位著名的徒步者 Now, William MacGillivray was also a celebrated walker 307 00:16:27,707 --> 00:16:29,540 和伟大的登山家 and great mountaineer. 308 00:16:33,519 --> 00:16:37,350 学生时期 麦吉利夫雷从阿伯丁步行至伦敦 As a student, MacGillivray walked from Aberdeen to London 309 00:16:37,400 --> 00:16:39,610 参观大英博物馆 to visit the British Museum, 310 00:16:39,660 --> 00:16:42,327 往返超过1000英里 a round trip of over 1000 miles. 311 00:16:43,930 --> 00:16:47,399 为寻找标本 他探索了凯恩戈姆山脉 In his quest for specimens, he explored the Cairngorms , 312 00:16:47,449 --> 00:16:50,547 首次记录了途中许多山峰的攀登 making the first recorded ascents of many peaks 313 00:16:50,597 --> 00:16:52,331 in the process. 314 00:16:52,381 --> 00:16:56,027 1817年 在哈里斯与叔叔同住期间 In 1817, while staying with his uncle in Harris, 315 00:16:56,077 --> 00:17:00,241 他决定攀登雄伟的克利瑟姆并写道 he decided to scale the mighty Clisham and wrote, 316 00:17:00,291 --> 00:17:03,867 尽管有冰雹 大雪和猛烈的旋风 in spite of hail and snow and the furious whirlwinds, 317 00:17:03,917 --> 00:17:06,560 我仍成功登顶 在那里欣赏到 I made my way to the summit where I enjoyed 318 00:17:06,610 --> 00:17:08,693 非常壮丽的景象 a very sublime spectacle. 319 00:17:09,779 --> 00:17:10,612 嘿！ Hey! 320 00:17:11,544 --> 00:17:12,627 到顶了！ It's the top! 321 00:17:14,697 --> 00:17:16,570 我刚避风片刻 I've just stepped out of the wind for a moment 322 00:17:16,620 --> 00:17:19,280 欣赏景色 它一定和威廉·麦吉利夫雷时代 to take in the view, which must be as sublime 323 00:17:19,330 --> 00:17:22,539 一样壮丽 as it was back in William MacGillivray's day. 324 00:17:22,589 --> 00:17:24,289 从克利瑟姆的顶峰 From the summit here of Clisham, 325 00:17:24,339 --> 00:17:27,317 你可以看到哈里斯和刘易斯的长岛大部分 you can see most of the long island of Harris and Lewis 326 00:17:27,367 --> 00:17:29,170 向北延伸 stretching way up there to the north. 327 00:17:29,220 --> 00:17:33,387 向南可以看到地平线上的尤伊斯特群岛 Down to the south you can see the Uists on the horizon. 328 00:17:37,111 --> 00:17:39,269 从克利瑟姆的有利位置 我将返回 From my vantage point on Clisham, I'm heading 329 00:17:39,319 --> 00:17:42,170 海上 前往与世隔绝的 back out to sea and to the isolated rock 330 00:17:42,220 --> 00:17:45,079 苏拉斯基尔岩 然后前往非凡的 of Sula Sgeir and then on to the remarkable 331 00:17:45,129 --> 00:17:48,859 北罗纳岛 它位于刘易斯角以北 North Rona, which lies 45 miles north 332 00:17:48,909 --> 00:17:50,576 45英里处 of the tip of Lewis. 333 00:17:52,581 --> 00:17:56,120 它曾是欧洲最偏远岛屿社区的家园 It was once home to the remotest island community in Europe. 334 00:17:56,170 --> 00:17:59,919 现在 我非常兴奋 因为过去两年 Now, I'm really excited, because for the last two 335 00:17:59,969 --> 00:18:01,981 我一直拼命尝试前往 years I've been trying desperately to get 336 00:18:02,031 --> 00:18:05,201 这些孤寂的岛屿 苏拉斯基尔和北罗纳 to these lonely islands of Sula Sgeir and North Rona 337 00:18:05,251 --> 00:18:08,389 但天气 即使在夏天 也总是 but the weather, even in summer, has always proved 338 00:18:08,439 --> 00:18:11,291 过于恶劣无法登陆 to be just too rough to make a landing. 339 00:18:11,341 --> 00:18:14,147 但今早看起来完美 But this morning it seems absolutely perfect. 340 00:18:14,197 --> 00:18:16,608 所以如果我能到达 如果我能登上这些岛屿 So if I do get there, if I do get to these islands, 341 00:18:16,658 --> 00:18:19,187 它们将是我迄今访问过的 they will be the remotest islands I will have 342 00:18:19,237 --> 00:18:21,904 最偏远的岛屿 所以祈祷好运 ever visited so fingers crossed. 343 00:18:26,079 --> 00:18:29,579 这感觉像一次真正的远征 This feels like a real expedition. 344 00:18:29,629 --> 00:18:33,477 我们正前往无人之境 And we're traveling to the middle of nowhere. 345 00:18:33,527 --> 00:18:35,969 至少需要五小时 It's going to take us at least five hours 346 00:18:36,019 --> 00:18:37,807 才能到达目的地 to reach our destination. 347 00:18:37,857 --> 00:18:39,907 或许更久 海况正 Perhaps longer in seas that are 348 00:18:39,957 --> 00:18:42,441 每分钟都在变糟 getting rougher by the minute. 349 00:18:42,491 --> 00:18:46,218 同行的有考古学家乔治·格迪斯 With me is archaeologist, George Geddes. 350 00:18:46,268 --> 00:18:49,917 人们最初怎么知道北罗纳的存在 How did people first know that North Rona even existed 351 00:18:49,967 --> 00:18:51,667 因为它几乎看不见 because it's practically invisible, 352 00:18:51,717 --> 00:18:54,379 嗯 从苏格兰大陆确实大多数时候 well, it is invisible for most of the time 353 00:18:54,429 --> 00:18:56,273 看不见它？ from mainland Scotland? 354 00:18:56,323 --> 00:18:58,284 - 大多数时候肯定看不见 - Well, most of the time it's definitely invisible, 355 00:18:58,334 --> 00:18:59,852 但天气好时可以从刘易斯的 but on a good day you can see it from the 356 00:18:59,902 --> 00:19:02,851 高山和大陆看到 high hills of Lewis and from the mainland. 357 00:19:02,901 --> 00:19:05,021 所以可能性是 我想 有人刚好看到 So the possibility, I suppose, is that somebody just saw 358 00:19:05,071 --> 00:19:07,835 它就想 我们去看看那个地方 it and thought, let's go and see that place 359 00:19:07,885 --> 00:19:09,246 看看什么样 and see what it's like. 360 00:19:09,296 --> 00:19:11,596 - 嗯 这就是地平线上岛屿的诱惑力 - Well, that's the allure of an island on the horizon, 361 00:19:11,646 --> 00:19:14,813 它总是吸引着你 不是吗？ it always draws you to it, doesn't it? 362 00:19:16,300 --> 00:19:20,223 在经历了四个多小时的恶劣海况后 After weathering some pretty rough seas for over four hours, 363 00:19:20,273 --> 00:19:23,655 一座孤独的哨兵映入眼帘 a lonely sentinel hooves into view. 364 00:19:23,705 --> 00:19:26,245 那座危险的岩石叫苏拉斯基尔 That dangerous looking rock is called Sula Sgeir 365 00:19:26,295 --> 00:19:29,217 或称鲣鸟岩 自古以来 or Gannet Rock and since time immemorial, 366 00:19:29,267 --> 00:19:33,434 它吸引着鲣鸟猎人前往其危险的海岸 it's attracted gannet hunters to its dangerous shores. 367 00:19:38,647 --> 00:19:42,275 每年八月 内斯和刘易斯的人们向北航行 Every August, men from Ness and Lewis sail north 368 00:19:42,325 --> 00:19:45,259 攀爬陡峭的岩石 他们至今仍获许可 and clamber up the steep rocks, where they are still 369 00:19:45,309 --> 00:19:48,976 狩猎guga 即未离巢的鲣鸟 licensed to hunt guga, or unfledged gannets. 370 00:19:50,840 --> 00:19:54,044 这部影片摄于1952年 展示了他们如何 This film was made in 1952 and shows how they 371 00:19:54,094 --> 00:19:56,479 运送物资 以及如何利用 landed their supplies and how they made use 372 00:19:56,529 --> 00:19:59,615 这些有数百年历史的石屋 of these centuries old stone bothies 373 00:19:59,665 --> 00:20:02,048 他们停留长达三周 同时 where they stayed for up to three weeks while 374 00:20:02,098 --> 00:20:05,681 用长杆捕捉幼鲣鸟 catching the young gannets with long poles. 375 00:20:08,625 --> 00:20:11,358 鸟类随后被剥皮 用泥炭火熏制 The birds were then skinned and smoked over a peat fire 376 00:20:11,408 --> 00:20:15,455 仔细包装后运给家乡的人 before being carefully packaged for the folks at home 377 00:20:15,505 --> 00:20:17,762 在那里guga仍被视为 where the guga is still considered to be 378 00:20:17,812 --> 00:20:20,687 一种美味佳肴 至今仍在刘易斯的 an epicurean delight and enjoyed on tables 379 00:20:20,737 --> 00:20:23,154 餐桌上受欢迎 throughout Lewis to this day. 380 00:20:27,419 --> 00:20:29,555 离开苏拉斯基尔 我们继续向东北 Leaving Sula Sgeir, we continue northeast 381 00:20:29,605 --> 00:20:31,522 航行14英里 for a further 14 miles. 382 00:20:32,635 --> 00:20:35,928 经过近六小时的总行程 After a total journey time of almost six hours, 383 00:20:35,978 --> 00:20:38,625 我们最终到达目标 也是我岛屿之行的 we finally reach our goal and the very last 384 00:20:38,675 --> 00:20:41,842 最后一站 北罗纳 of my island destinations, North Rona. 385 00:20:44,569 --> 00:20:46,377 好了 我们到了 看见陆地了 So, there we are, land ho. 386 00:20:46,427 --> 00:20:48,985 传说中的北罗纳 The fabled North Rona. 387 00:20:49,035 --> 00:20:50,955 从船上看 你才能真正体会到 And seeing it from the boat, you really appreciate 388 00:20:51,005 --> 00:20:54,128 北罗纳有多么偏远 just how remote North Rona is. 389 00:20:54,178 --> 00:20:56,545 但绝对令人震惊的是 人们 But what's absolutely staggering is that people 390 00:20:56,595 --> 00:20:59,678 在这里生活了数百年 lived out here for hundreds of years. 391 00:21:02,298 --> 00:21:04,278 很少有海面平静到能允许 It's seldom that the seas are calm enough 392 00:21:04,328 --> 00:21:07,498 在这座峭壁守卫、没有码头的岛屿登陆 to permit a landing on this cliff guard island 393 00:21:07,548 --> 00:21:10,494 where there is no pier or jetty. 394 00:21:10,544 --> 00:21:13,798 事实上 条件必须近乎完美 In fact, conditions have to be well nigh perfect, 395 00:21:13,848 --> 00:21:16,514 这使得登陆北罗纳成为罕见 which makes a landfall on North Rona a rare 396 00:21:16,564 --> 00:21:20,731 而特别的经历 正如这些早期游客所发现 and special thing as these early tourists discovered. 397 00:21:23,107 --> 00:21:25,572 此刻 我们攀爬60英尺的岩石 Presently, we scramble up 60 feet of rock. 398 00:21:25,622 --> 00:21:28,872 我们完成了几乎不可能的任务 We have achieved the almost impossible. 399 00:21:29,723 --> 00:21:32,140 我们登上了北罗纳 We have landed on North Rona. 400 00:21:35,357 --> 00:21:38,703 那部影片摄于1958年 但如今登陆 That film was made in 1958, but landing today 401 00:21:38,753 --> 00:21:42,237 和当时一样困难 is just as hard as it was back then. 402 00:21:42,287 --> 00:21:45,424 更像一次突击行动 需要我调动全部 More like a commando raid, requiring all the balance 403 00:21:45,474 --> 00:21:48,891 平衡感和镇定力 而这并不多 and poise I can muster, which isn't much. 404 00:21:50,194 --> 00:21:51,024 乔治 我们成功了！ George, we've made it! 405 00:21:51,074 --> 00:21:52,368 是的 Yes. 406 00:21:52,418 --> 00:21:55,233 等待了两年半才来到这里 After two and a half years of waiting to get here, 407 00:21:55,283 --> 00:21:59,297 我终于踏上了北罗纳 I'm finally setting foot on North Rona. 408 00:21:59,347 --> 00:22:00,903 乔治 我必须说 首先 Now, George, I have to say, one of the first 409 00:22:00,953 --> 00:22:04,198 让我震惊的是这里的绿意 things that strikes me is just how green it is here. 410 00:22:04,248 --> 00:22:06,995 - 茂盛 葱郁的地方 牧草丰美 - Lush, a lush and green place with great grazing. 411 00:22:07,045 --> 00:22:10,397 一直以养育牛羊的优质牧草闻名 It was always known for good grass for cattle and sheep. 412 00:22:10,447 --> 00:22:12,038 这就是人们来此的原因吗？ Is that why people came here then? 413 00:22:12,088 --> 00:22:16,641 嗯 这肯定是优势之一 是的 Well, it's certainly one of the advantages, yeah. 414 00:22:16,691 --> 00:22:19,024 在最后一批永久居民离开之前 Before the last permanent residents left 415 00:22:19,074 --> 00:22:22,048 在1830年代 早期旅行者评论了 in the 1830s, early travelers commented on the 416 00:22:22,098 --> 00:22:24,164 他们在这里遇到的当地人 locals they met here. 417 00:22:24,214 --> 00:22:26,407 据说他们以天空 It said they took their names from the color 418 00:22:26,457 --> 00:22:30,448 和云彩的颜色取名 并且非常好客 of the sky and the clouds and were wonderfully hospitable, 419 00:22:30,498 --> 00:22:32,217 祝福访客并慷慨赠与 blessing visitors and showering them 420 00:22:32,267 --> 00:22:34,643 谷物礼物 with gifts of grain. 421 00:22:34,693 --> 00:22:36,523 但他们究竟如何在这座荒凉孤岛上 But how on earth did they make a living 422 00:22:36,573 --> 00:22:39,007 谋生呢？ on this wild and lonely island? 423 00:22:39,057 --> 00:22:41,032 他们在这里种植什么？ What would they have grown here? 424 00:22:41,082 --> 00:22:43,395 - 当然 在人口最多约30人时 - Certainly when it was at its biggest population 425 00:22:43,445 --> 00:22:45,514 他们主要种植大麦 of about 30, they were mainly growing barley, 426 00:22:45,564 --> 00:22:46,480 这是它出名的地方 that's what it was known for. 427 00:22:46,530 --> 00:22:47,808 - 在如此多风的地方拥有谷物田 - An incredible thought in such a windy place 428 00:22:47,858 --> 00:22:49,787 真是难以置信 to have a field of grain. 429 00:22:49,837 --> 00:22:53,265 金色的麦田在微风中摇曳 Fields of golden barley waving in the breeze here. 430 00:22:53,315 --> 00:22:55,844 - 绝对是的 所以如果我们在这里 比如300 - Absolutely, yes, so had we been here, say, 300 431 00:22:55,894 --> 00:22:57,925 年前 我们可能正站在 years ago we might well have been standing in 432 00:22:57,975 --> 00:23:00,142 生长的大麦田中 a growing field of barley. 433 00:23:04,523 --> 00:23:06,535 穿过古老的墓地 Walking through the ancient graveyard, 434 00:23:06,585 --> 00:23:09,774 我们遇到的第一座建筑是小教堂 the first building we come to is a tiny chapel, 435 00:23:09,824 --> 00:23:13,145 献给圣罗南 据说他曾居住于此 dedicated to St. Ronan, who's reputed to have lived here 436 00:23:13,195 --> 00:23:16,704 并将名字赋予此岛 and given his name to the island. 437 00:23:16,754 --> 00:23:19,205 从教堂门的大小判断 他一定是 Judging by the size of the chapel door, he must have 438 00:23:19,255 --> 00:23:22,565 位非常矮小的圣人 been a very small saint indeed. 439 00:23:22,615 --> 00:23:24,021 有原因吗 还是他们只是 Is there a reason for this or were they just 440 00:23:24,071 --> 00:23:24,907 身材非常矮小？ very small people? 441 00:23:24,957 --> 00:23:27,955 嗯 部分原因是它被淤泥填埋了 Well, it's partly that it's been silted up. 442 00:23:28,005 --> 00:23:29,323 是出于虔诚吗 Was it a devotional thing, 443 00:23:29,373 --> 00:23:31,367 必须跪着进入？ you had to get on your knees? 444 00:23:31,417 --> 00:23:34,358 哇 这是个非常重要的地方 Wow, this is a very significant place. 445 00:23:34,408 --> 00:23:35,637 - 这个 是的 - This, yeah. 446 00:23:35,687 --> 00:23:38,017 这可能是苏格兰最早的基督教 This is potentially one of the earliest Christian 447 00:23:38,067 --> 00:23:41,917 建筑之一 即使不是最早 buildings in Scotland, if not the earliest. 448 00:23:41,967 --> 00:23:45,194 所以这个小室 有时称为祈祷室 So this little cell, sometimes called an oratory, 449 00:23:45,244 --> 00:23:47,966 一个小型私人教堂 常被认为是 a little private chapel, is often been thought of 450 00:23:48,016 --> 00:23:52,183 圣罗南的小室 可以说是僧侣的禅房 as St. Ronan's cell, like a monk's cell if you like. 451 00:23:53,885 --> 00:23:56,021 早期凯尔特教会的僧侣有传统 It was a tradition of monks of the early 452 00:23:56,071 --> 00:23:58,805 寻找偏远岛屿 Celtic church to seek out remote islands 453 00:23:58,855 --> 00:24:01,955 进行冥想和祈祷 for contemplation and prayer. 454 00:24:02,005 --> 00:24:04,491 想想这座简朴的建筑可能 It's amazing to think that this simple building 455 00:24:04,541 --> 00:24:07,924 已超过一千年历史 真是惊人 could be over a thousand years old. 456 00:24:07,974 --> 00:24:12,091 匍匐跪地 面向全能者 Down on my hands and knees to face the Almighty. 457 00:24:12,141 --> 00:24:16,760 尽管黑暗 我们仍能辨认出卵石屋顶 Despite the darkness, we can just make out the cobbled roof. 458 00:24:16,810 --> 00:24:20,977 我想知道在这狭小空间里曾诉说过怎样的祈祷 I wonder what prayers were said in this tiny space. 459 00:24:22,271 --> 00:24:24,981 紧挨教堂的是村庄 Huddled close to the chapel is the village, 460 00:24:25,031 --> 00:24:28,313 曾是一个30人社区的家园 once home to a community of 30 people. 461 00:24:28,363 --> 00:24:29,993 乔治 这房子的地址是什么？ So what's the address of this house, George? 462 00:24:30,043 --> 00:24:32,564 - 这是1号 1号 罗纳 - This is number one, number one, Rona. 463 00:24:32,614 --> 00:24:34,085 罗纳之屋 The Rona house. 464 00:24:34,135 --> 00:24:36,941 最后有人居住的房子 The last occupied house. 465 00:24:36,991 --> 00:24:39,443 少数造访北罗纳的游客 The few visitors that made the trip to North Rona 466 00:24:39,493 --> 00:24:42,313 常评论房屋如何建得 often remarked on how the houses were built 467 00:24:42,363 --> 00:24:45,253 几乎在地下 以保护岛民 practically underground to protect the islanders 468 00:24:45,303 --> 00:24:46,803 免受自然侵袭 from the elements. 469 00:24:47,855 --> 00:24:49,751 - 如果我们在这里 有人居住 - If we were in here and people were living here, 470 00:24:49,801 --> 00:24:51,011 会是个很小的立方体 it would be quite a small cube. 471 00:24:51,061 --> 00:24:53,951 会非常黑暗 气味难闻 It would be really dark and it would be really smelly, 472 00:24:54,001 --> 00:24:56,149 充满我们觉得奇怪的气味 full of smells that we find kind of odd, 473 00:24:56,199 --> 00:24:58,025 因为这里会有牛 cause there'd be cattle here. 474 00:24:58,075 --> 00:25:00,601 会有他们收集的鱼 海鸟 There'd be fish that they collected, the sea birds, 475 00:25:00,651 --> 00:25:02,631 即使在最好时候也很臭 which are smelly at the best of times. 476 00:25:02,681 --> 00:25:03,765 浓郁刺鼻的气味 Rich pungent aroma. 477 00:25:03,815 --> 00:25:04,993 - 绝对 - Absolutely. 478 00:25:05,043 --> 00:25:07,564 - 但是 我意思是 站在这里眺望 - But, I mean, standing here and looking across 479 00:25:07,614 --> 00:25:10,611 这片美妙的抬升地 我看不到 at this wonderful way to raise in, I see not 480 00:25:10,661 --> 00:25:12,903 任何地方的丝毫陆地迹象 the slightest hint of land anywhere 481 00:25:12,953 --> 00:25:15,493 我无法理解人们如何能 and I just cannot get over the idea that people 482 00:25:15,543 --> 00:25:18,151 在这里生活如此之久 lived here for so long. 483 00:25:18,201 --> 00:25:20,248 距离最近的登陆点45英里 It's 45 miles to the nearest landfall. 484 00:25:20,298 --> 00:25:22,053 但他们在这里做什么？ But what were they doing here? 485 00:25:22,103 --> 00:25:24,751 - 嗯 据我们所知 真正的驱动力来自 - Well, the real driver as far as we know from 486 00:25:24,801 --> 00:25:27,761 生活在这里的人 如果你愿意这么说 people living here in the historical period if you like, 487 00:25:27,811 --> 00:25:30,611 过去几百年 基本上是 the last few hundred years, is basically that they 488 00:25:30,661 --> 00:25:33,795 在这里向刘易斯岛上 were here to pay rent to the guys on Lewis 489 00:25:33,845 --> 00:25:35,595 拥有此岛的人交租 who owned the island. 490 00:25:37,555 --> 00:25:39,965 实际上 他们是封建社会的 Effectively, they were rent slaves 491 00:25:40,015 --> 00:25:44,104 租金奴隶 完全依赖他们的领主 in a feudal society and utterly dependent on their lord. 492 00:25:44,154 --> 00:25:47,660 难以置信的是 岛民甚至 It's hard to believe but the islanders didn't 493 00:25:47,710 --> 00:25:51,034 没有船 但他们的地主体贴地 even have a boat but their landlord thoughtfully 494 00:25:51,084 --> 00:25:54,044 每年派一艘来收租 sent one every year to collect the rent 495 00:25:54,094 --> 00:25:56,390 有时还供应他们 and sometimes to keep them supplied 496 00:25:56,440 --> 00:25:58,893 生活必需品 with life's essentials. 497 00:25:58,943 --> 00:26:00,955 - 偶尔会发生的是 比如一个罗纳男人 - Occasionally what would happen is a Rona man 498 00:26:01,005 --> 00:26:03,755 需要妻子 然后他会 would need a wife, for example, and then he would 499 00:26:03,805 --> 00:26:06,840 对从刘易斯北部来的人说 say to the guy who'd come out from the north of Lewis, 500 00:26:06,890 --> 00:26:09,500 你能试试帮我找个妻子吗 can you see if you can try and find a wife for me 501 00:26:09,550 --> 00:26:13,243 第二年他们会带来某人 and the next year they would bring out somebody. 502 00:26:13,293 --> 00:26:14,941 - 某个不幸的妻子 - Some poor unlikely wife. 503 00:26:14,991 --> 00:26:18,788 - 或者也许是个绝色美女 你知道 - Or perhaps an absolute cracker, you know. 504 00:26:18,838 --> 00:26:19,650 很难说 It's difficult to know. 505 00:26:19,700 --> 00:26:22,394 - 屏息等待看风带来什么—— - Waiting with bated breath to see what the wind-- 506 00:26:22,444 --> 00:26:24,531 - 同样地 如果这里男人不足 - And similarly, if there wasn't enough men here, 507 00:26:24,581 --> 00:26:27,504 内斯和罗纳之间会交换人口 there was an exchange of people between Ness and Rona, 508 00:26:27,554 --> 00:26:31,004 试图保持人口相对合理管理 to try to keep the population relatively well managed. 509 00:26:31,054 --> 00:26:33,263 关于这些最偏远的苏格兰岛屿 The most important thing to understand about these 510 00:26:33,313 --> 00:26:36,361 最重要的是要明白 它们无法运作 most remote Scottish islands is that they don't work 511 00:26:36,411 --> 00:26:38,494 除非相互连接 unless they're connected. 512 00:26:39,454 --> 00:26:42,223 所以如果像这样的社区真正孤立 So if a community like this really was isolated 513 00:26:42,273 --> 00:26:44,551 它会很快终结 it would end quite quickly. 514 00:26:44,601 --> 00:26:47,227 罗纳卷入了一个更大的世界 你知道 Rona's caught up in a bigger world, you know. 515 00:26:47,277 --> 00:26:49,187 他们从未 从未只是过着 They were never, they were never just living 516 00:26:49,237 --> 00:26:50,940 孤立的生活 an isolated life. 517 00:26:50,990 --> 00:26:52,550 - 但现在有点漂泊无依了 - It's kind of adrift now, though. 518 00:26:52,600 --> 00:26:53,423 它无人居住 It's uninhabited. 519 00:26:53,473 --> 00:26:55,140 - 是的 - 它被隔绝了 - Yeah. - It is cut off. 520 00:26:55,190 --> 00:26:56,484 - 现在相当孤立 - It's pretty isolated now. 521 00:26:56,534 --> 00:26:58,451 - 是的 但很美 - It is, but beautiful. 522 00:27:02,274 --> 00:27:05,094 北罗纳对旅行者而言是苏格兰群岛中 North Rona is as lonely as it gets for a traveler 523 00:27:05,144 --> 00:27:07,525 最孤独的存在 among the Scottish islands. 524 00:27:07,575 --> 00:27:10,293 我从未到过一个地方让我如此 Never before have I been to a place where I felt 525 00:27:10,343 --> 00:27:14,260 强烈地几乎物理性地感受到孤立 isolation so acutely in an almost physical way. 526 00:27:16,521 --> 00:27:20,270 其他访客也有类似反应 Other visitors had a similar reaction. 527 00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:22,524 当早期旅行者约翰·麦卡洛克 When the early traveler John Maculloch come to 528 00:27:22,574 --> 00:27:25,920 在1830年代来到北罗纳 他对这里的人 North Rona in the 1830s, he was impressed by the people 529 00:27:25,970 --> 00:27:29,160 和所发现的孤立印象深刻 and the isolation that he found here. 530 00:27:29,210 --> 00:27:31,657 他试图想象自己 And he tried to imagine for himself what it must 531 00:27:31,707 --> 00:27:33,234 生活在这里会怎样 be like to live here. 532 00:27:33,284 --> 00:27:36,243 起初他想 也许像在船上 At first he thought, perhaps it's like being on a ship 533 00:27:36,293 --> 00:27:39,553 但随后意识到船航行时 but then he realized that a ship travels 534 00:27:39,603 --> 00:27:41,600 带着抵达的期望 with the expectation of arrival. 535 00:27:41,650 --> 00:27:44,471 但北罗纳永远锚定在 But North Rona is anchored forever in the 536 00:27:44,521 --> 00:27:48,181 狂暴汹涌的大海中 它无处可去 wild and turbulent sea and it's going nowhere 537 00:27:48,231 --> 00:27:50,398 那才是真正的偏远 and that really is remote. 538 00:27:53,565 --> 00:27:56,385 北罗纳是我结束苏格兰群岛 North Rona is the perfect place for me to end my grand 539 00:27:56,435 --> 00:27:58,852 伟大之旅的完美地点 tour of the Scottish islands. 540 00:27:59,973 --> 00:28:02,881 制作这些影片是一次美妙的经历 Making these films has been a wonderful experience 541 00:28:02,931 --> 00:28:04,764 也是莫大的荣幸 and a great privilege. 542 00:28:05,703 --> 00:28:08,441 跨越四个系列 我旅行至英国 Over four series, I've traveled to some of the 543 00:28:08,491 --> 00:28:10,931 一些最美丽的地方 以及欧洲 most beautiful places in Britain and to the remotest 544 00:28:10,981 --> 00:28:12,481 最偏远的岛屿 islands in Europe. 545 00:28:13,450 --> 00:28:15,799 穿越内赫布里底和外赫布里底 Traveling through the Inner and the Outer Hebrides 546 00:28:15,849 --> 00:28:17,894 探索北部群岛 and exploring the Northern Isles 547 00:28:17,944 --> 00:28:20,957 从斯特罗马到马库弗拉加 from Stroma to Muckle Flugga. 548 00:28:21,007 --> 00:28:25,174 总共 我到过我们250个岛屿中的87个 In total, I've been to just 87 of our 250 islands, 549 00:28:26,778 --> 00:28:30,402 所以我只是触及表面 真的 so I've only just scratched the surface, really.