1 00:00:04,300 --> 00:00:06,202 - 据说一个地方的风貌 - It's said that the look of a place 2 00:00:06,252 --> 00:00:10,419 在很大程度上塑造了当地人的性格。 plays a big part in shaping the character of its people. 3 00:00:11,668 --> 00:00:14,858 如果真是这样，那么这里的岛民 If that is the case, then island folk here 4 00:00:14,908 --> 00:00:17,575 必定是一群非凡之辈。 must surely be a formidable lot. 5 00:00:21,161 --> 00:00:24,154 这片风景自有一种英雄气概， There's something essentially heroic about this landscape 6 00:00:24,204 --> 00:00:27,674 其崎岖与壮丽令人无法不为之动容， and it's impossible not to be moved by its ruggedness 7 00:00:27,724 --> 00:00:30,074 仿佛源自 and its grandeur which seem to come from 8 00:00:30,124 --> 00:00:33,253 神话与传说的领域。 the realms of myth and legend. 9 00:00:35,781 --> 00:00:39,013 我继续着史诗般的跳岛之旅， I'm continuing my epic island-hopping odyssey, 10 00:00:39,063 --> 00:00:41,112 试图揭开 trying to unravel the secrets of some of 11 00:00:41,162 --> 00:00:44,079 苏格兰一些最迷人地域的秘密。 Scotland's most fascinating places. 12 00:00:47,497 --> 00:00:50,047 并结识居住于此的人们。 And meeting the people who live here. 13 00:00:50,097 --> 00:00:52,431 唐纳德，我习惯坐头等舱旅行。 I'm used to traveling first class, Donald. 14 00:00:52,481 --> 00:00:53,710 这就是头等舱！ This is first class! 15 00:00:53,760 --> 00:00:55,109 - 我觉得这是统舱。 - I think this is steerage. 16 00:00:55,159 --> 00:00:57,231 很难精确统计 It's impossible to be precise 17 00:00:57,281 --> 00:00:59,631 散布在苏格兰狂野海岸沿线 about the total number of islands 18 00:00:59,681 --> 00:01:03,690 岛屿的总数。 that are scattered around Scotland's untameable coast. 19 00:01:03,740 --> 00:01:05,711 但若不计算那些众多的岩石 But not counting the numerous rocks 20 00:01:05,761 --> 00:01:08,511 和礁石，总数远超过250座。 and skerries, it's well over 250. 21 00:01:09,761 --> 00:01:11,967 码头尽头有辆小车， And at the end of the jetty, a little vehicle 22 00:01:12,017 --> 00:01:15,247 由一只柯基犬驾驶，载我们上岸。 driven by a collie dog to take us to shore. 23 00:01:16,881 --> 00:01:18,911 在这次伟大之旅中，我要探索 On this Grand Tour, I'm exploring 24 00:01:18,961 --> 00:01:22,266 斯凯岛最北端的半岛。 the northernmost peninsula of Skye. 25 00:01:22,316 --> 00:01:24,165 那里雾霭缭绕的群山 Where mist-wreathed mountains 26 00:01:24,215 --> 00:01:26,165 与扭曲的岩层 and contorted rock formations 27 00:01:26,215 --> 00:01:30,298 塑造了当地人的性格，并激发了想象。 have shaped its people and fired the imagination. 28 00:01:43,895 --> 00:01:46,926 我的斯凯岛之旅将我带回过去， My journey through Skye, takes me back in time 29 00:01:46,976 --> 00:01:51,066 回到地质古老的斯托尔老人岩， to the geologically ancient Old Man of Store 30 00:01:51,116 --> 00:01:53,402 探访波特里的体育传奇， onto the sporting legends of Portree 31 00:01:53,452 --> 00:01:56,325 和迷人的仙女谷， and the enchanting Fairy Glen 32 00:01:56,375 --> 00:02:00,375 最后探索氛围神秘的奎雷。 before exploring the eerily atmospheric Quirang. 33 00:02:02,613 --> 00:02:05,422 这趟伟大之旅以一次徒步开始， It's a Grand Tour that starts with a hike 34 00:02:05,472 --> 00:02:07,972 最好称之为具有挑战性。 best described as challenging. 35 00:02:09,632 --> 00:02:12,219 这是特洛特尼什岭。 This is the Trotternish Ridge. 36 00:02:12,269 --> 00:02:15,422 它如同斯凯岛北部的脊梁， It's like the backbone of northern Skye 37 00:02:15,472 --> 00:02:19,639 绵延22英里，尽是艰辛攀爬与陡峭下坡。 with 22 miles of arduous climbs and dramatic descents. 38 00:02:21,492 --> 00:02:25,659 但若你钟情地质学，这里确实非同凡响。 But if geology is your bag, it really is quite something. 39 00:02:26,891 --> 00:02:29,981 这是一片非凡的火山荒原， This is an extraordinary volcanic wilderness 40 00:02:30,031 --> 00:02:32,083 由古老的熔岩床构成， composed of ancient lava beds 41 00:02:32,133 --> 00:02:34,322 它们曾流淌过这片土地， that once flowed across the landscape 42 00:02:34,372 --> 00:02:37,581 大约在六千多万年前。 about 60 odd million years ago. 43 00:02:37,631 --> 00:02:40,141 这是科学解释。 That's the scientific explanation. 44 00:02:40,191 --> 00:02:42,781 但在斯凯岛，有一些更奇幻的 But here on Skye, there are some rather more fanciful 45 00:02:42,831 --> 00:02:46,998 故事来解释这些巨大尖峰的起源。 stories to explain the origins of these massive pinnacles. 46 00:02:48,731 --> 00:02:52,121 其中一个故事讲述了一位老人和他的妻子， One such tale tells of an old man and his wife 47 00:02:52,171 --> 00:02:54,197 以及他们遭遇 and what happened when they encountered 48 00:02:54,247 --> 00:02:57,363 一群在山间游荡的巨人时发生的事。 a group of giants roaming the hills. 49 00:02:57,413 --> 00:03:00,659 当这对夫妇转身逃跑时，他们犯了致命错误 When the couple turned and fled, they made the fatal mistake 50 00:03:00,709 --> 00:03:03,502 回头看了追逐者。 of looking back at the their pursuers. 51 00:03:03,552 --> 00:03:07,719 老人和他的妻子立刻化为了石头。 The old man and his wife were immediately turned to stone. 52 00:03:09,509 --> 00:03:11,442 我不知道老妇人在哪里， Now I don't know where the old woman is 53 00:03:11,492 --> 00:03:13,120 但那就是老人。 but that's the old man. 54 00:03:13,170 --> 00:03:15,059 我估计他本人 And I reckon he must of been something 55 00:03:15,109 --> 00:03:19,276 一定也是个巨人，因为他身高超过50米。 of a giant himself because he's over 50 meters tall. 56 00:03:22,651 --> 00:03:26,382 如今世界闻名，被称为斯托尔老人岩， Now known the world over as the Old Man of Store 57 00:03:26,432 --> 00:03:29,102 当你看到这些他脚下的微小身影时， you get a sense of just how colossal he is 58 00:03:29,152 --> 00:03:32,819 你就能感受到他有多么巨大。 when you see these tiny figures at his feet. 59 00:03:33,871 --> 00:03:37,454 在盖尔语中，老人被称为Anbodach， In Gaelic, the Old Man is known as Anbodach 60 00:03:38,491 --> 00:03:42,074 而Anbodach在盖尔语中是男性生殖器的意思。 and Anbodach is Gaelic for the male member. 61 00:03:44,912 --> 00:03:47,662 这才是我所说的大家伙。 Now that's what I call a whopper. 62 00:03:50,875 --> 00:03:53,342 当我沿着山脊前行时， As I make my way along the ridge, 63 00:03:53,392 --> 00:03:56,142 我开始明白为什么这个岛的名字 I begin to understand why the name for this island 64 00:03:56,192 --> 00:04:00,862 被认为是古挪威语中“迷雾之岛”的意思。 is believed to be old Norse for island of mist. 65 00:04:00,912 --> 00:04:04,080 这确实让一切充满了氛围。 It certainly makes things atmospheric. 66 00:04:04,130 --> 00:04:07,443 斯凯岛有一种超脱尘世的感觉。 Skye has a kind of otherworldly feel. 67 00:04:07,493 --> 00:04:11,403 这片风景为科幻史诗提供了戏剧性的背景， This landscape has provided the dramatic backdrop 68 00:04:11,453 --> 00:04:15,620 如《星球大战》、《异形》和《普罗米修斯》。 for sci fi epics like Star Wars, Alien, and Prometheus. 69 00:04:19,552 --> 00:04:22,366 随着雾霭散去，我明白为何众多 And as the mist clears I can see why numerous 70 00:04:22,416 --> 00:04:26,583 故事片利用了这些令人惊叹的景色。 feature films have made use of these breathtaking vistas. 71 00:04:29,275 --> 00:04:31,865 事实上，整个岛都可以被描述为 Indeed this whole island could be described 72 00:04:31,915 --> 00:04:33,998 一个巨大的侏罗纪公园。 as one big Jurassic Park. 73 00:04:35,035 --> 00:04:37,347 我指的不只是电影。 I'm not just talking about the movies. 74 00:04:37,397 --> 00:04:41,564 我指的是化石时代的巨人，恐龙。 I'm talking about the giants of the fossil age, dinosaurs. 75 00:04:45,056 --> 00:04:47,945 我正前往海岸线亲眼目睹 I'm heading down to the shoreline to see for myself 76 00:04:47,995 --> 00:04:51,047 一项非凡的发现，它告诉我们很多 a remarkable discovery which tells us a lot 77 00:04:51,097 --> 00:04:55,264 关于这座岛以及曾在此漫步的生物。 about this island and the creatures which once roamed here. 78 00:04:58,715 --> 00:05:00,263 杜格尔德，我们在这里找什么？ Dugald what are we looking for here? 79 00:05:00,313 --> 00:05:02,271 - 我们在找脚印。 - We're looking for footprints. 80 00:05:02,321 --> 00:05:06,488 陪同我的是当地专家杜格尔德·罗斯。 Joining me is the local expert, Dugald Ross. 81 00:05:08,075 --> 00:05:10,846 令人惊讶的是，这些是恐龙脚印。 Amazingly these are dinosaur footprints. 82 00:05:10,896 --> 00:05:13,445 真的吗？你在开玩笑吧。 Really? You're kidding me. 83 00:05:13,495 --> 00:05:16,403 - 我们可以通过它们的 pattern 看出来。 - We can tell that by the pattern of them. 84 00:05:16,453 --> 00:05:18,686 它们呈一条明显的线。 They're in a distinct line. 85 00:05:18,736 --> 00:05:22,569 事实上，这是一条清晰的恐龙脚印线， It is, in fact, a distinct line of dinosaur footprints 86 00:05:22,619 --> 00:05:24,206 逐渐消失在远方。 petering off into the distance. 87 00:05:24,256 --> 00:05:27,086 这里大约有100个脚印。 There's about 100 prints here though. 88 00:05:27,136 --> 00:05:28,963 发现它们的研究人员将其描述为 This was described by the researchers 89 00:05:29,013 --> 00:05:31,625 一个恐龙迪斯科舞厅， who discovered them as a dinosaur disco, 90 00:05:31,675 --> 00:05:33,842 并引起了轰动。 and it caused a sensation. 91 00:05:35,922 --> 00:05:39,159 科学家们能够填补我们对该岛遥远过去 Scientists were able to fill in a lot of blanks 92 00:05:39,209 --> 00:05:43,699 理解中的许多空白。 in our understanding of the distant past on this island. 93 00:05:43,749 --> 00:05:45,235 当你看到这个特定的脚印时， When you come to this particular one 94 00:05:45,285 --> 00:05:47,897 你可以清晰地看到脚趾的印记。 you can accurately see the impressions of the toes. 95 00:05:47,947 --> 00:05:49,177 - 太神奇了。 - That is amazing. 96 00:05:49,227 --> 00:05:52,195 所以，它绝对巨大，不是吗？ So, it's absolutely huge isn't it? 97 00:05:52,245 --> 00:05:53,891 我可以非常清晰地看到， And I can see very distinctly, 98 00:05:53,941 --> 00:05:57,571 这里有一、二、三个脚趾印。 here's one two three toe prints there. 99 00:05:57,621 --> 00:05:59,735 那么这个脚印有多古老？ So how old would this footprint be? 100 00:05:59,785 --> 00:06:00,878 它是什么时候形成的？ When was it made? 101 00:06:00,928 --> 00:06:02,878 - 这些可以追溯到中侏罗纪时期， - These date to the middle Jurassic period 102 00:06:02,928 --> 00:06:04,718 距今1.7亿年前。 of 170,000,000 years ago. 103 00:06:04,768 --> 00:06:06,158 - 哇。 - Wow. 104 00:06:06,208 --> 00:06:09,657 - 那是由一只巨大的蜥脚类恐龙留下的，是的。 - That was made by a huge sauropod yeah. 105 00:06:09,707 --> 00:06:12,957 我说巨大，是指超过15吨。 When I say huge, that was 15 tons plus. 106 00:06:13,917 --> 00:06:14,907 真的吗？ Really? 107 00:06:14,957 --> 00:06:18,387 - 是的，通过脚印的巨大尺寸我们可以判断 - Yes we can tell by the immense size of the footprint 108 00:06:18,437 --> 00:06:21,769 它们承载了很大的重量。 that they bored a large weight. 109 00:06:21,819 --> 00:06:24,446 并且用四条后腿行走。 And walking on four hind legs. 110 00:06:24,496 --> 00:06:25,529 四条腿。 Four legged. 111 00:06:25,579 --> 00:06:26,662 - 是的，哦是的。 - Yes oh yes. 112 00:06:30,057 --> 00:06:33,347 这些是苏格兰首次记录的蜥脚类恐龙足迹。 These are Scotland's first recorded sauropods. 113 00:06:33,397 --> 00:06:35,681 因此它们吸引了全世界 So they have attracted a lot of attention 114 00:06:35,731 --> 00:06:37,803 古生物学家的广泛关注。 of paleontologists worldwide. 115 00:06:37,853 --> 00:06:40,387 蜥脚类恐龙在这里会做什么？ What would the sauropods of been doing down here? 116 00:06:40,437 --> 00:06:43,305 - 我们可以合理推测它们是在降温， - We can reasonably assume they had been cooling off 117 00:06:43,355 --> 00:06:47,723 因为那时是热带气候。 simply because it was a tropical climate during that period. 118 00:06:47,773 --> 00:06:50,867 所以，它们可能曾在浅水中跋涉。 So, they may have been wading in the shallow water. 119 00:06:50,917 --> 00:06:52,046 像河马一样？ Like hippos? 120 00:06:52,096 --> 00:06:55,846 是的，可能就像今天的动物那样。 Yes, possibly as animals do today. 121 00:06:59,397 --> 00:07:01,229 - 触摸这化石脚印， - Touching this fossilized footprint 122 00:07:01,279 --> 00:07:04,286 我感到自己跨越了万古时光。 I'm feel I'm spanning the eons of time. 123 00:07:04,336 --> 00:07:05,827 这几乎让人觉得 It makes it almost feel as if 124 00:07:05,877 --> 00:07:07,769 恐龙时代就在昨天。 the age of the dinosaurs is yesterday. 125 00:07:07,819 --> 00:07:11,986 太令人震惊了，杜格拉德，是不是绝对令人震惊？ It's mind blowing, Duglad, isn't it absolutely mind blowing? 126 00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,446 在真正追随了巨人的脚步之后， Having literally followed in the footsteps of giants, 127 00:07:16,496 --> 00:07:20,329 我前往波特里，岛上最大的城镇。 I'm heading for Portree, the biggest town on the island. 128 00:07:20,379 --> 00:07:22,749 它是当地居民 It's a bustling hub for locals 129 00:07:22,799 --> 00:07:26,007 和众多斯凯岛游客的繁忙中心。 and the many visitors to Skye. 130 00:07:26,057 --> 00:07:28,190 但对我而言，这是一个放松的机会， But for me, it's a chance to relax 131 00:07:28,240 --> 00:07:32,889 并体验这里的传统运动——简化曲棍球。 and take in the traditional sport of these parts, shinty. 132 00:07:39,337 --> 00:07:42,190 简化曲棍球这项运动我有所了解。 Now shinty's a game I know something about. 133 00:07:42,240 --> 00:07:45,934 我上学时曾在砾石场地上打过。 When I was at school we played it on a gravel pitch. 134 00:07:45,984 --> 00:07:49,817 不能说我是个热情的球员。 I can't say that I was an enthusiastic player. 135 00:07:51,698 --> 00:07:54,051 也许本意是为了磨练我们。 Perhaps it was supposed to toughen us up. 136 00:07:56,178 --> 00:07:58,848 事实上，它让我终生厌恶 In fact, it's given me a lifelong aversion 137 00:07:58,898 --> 00:08:01,171 任何涉及挥舞 to any game which involves swinging 138 00:08:01,221 --> 00:08:03,934 齐头高的木棍的运动， a wooden stick at head height, 139 00:08:03,984 --> 00:08:08,094 看这位仁兄就知道，这厌恶很有道理。 and judging by this guy, with good cause. 140 00:08:08,144 --> 00:08:11,113 但尽管如此，这项运动有着崇高的传统。 But nevertheless, the game has a noble tradition. 141 00:08:11,163 --> 00:08:14,435 并且在群岛上被充满激情地开展着。 And it's played with a passion on the islands. 142 00:08:14,485 --> 00:08:16,914 简化曲棍球，世界上速度最快的场地运动。 Shinty, the fastest field game in the world. 143 00:08:16,964 --> 00:08:20,494 简化曲棍球类似曲棍球，但历史古老得多。 Shinty is something like hockey but it's a much older game. 144 00:08:20,544 --> 00:08:22,494 其历史可追溯至六世纪， Dating back to the sixth century, 145 00:08:22,544 --> 00:08:26,531 据信是由爱尔兰僧侣将这项运动带入苏格兰。 it's believed that Irish monks brought the game to Scotland. 146 00:08:26,581 --> 00:08:28,611 运动中培养的技能 And the skills developed while playing 147 00:08:28,661 --> 00:08:30,771 在战场上派上了大用场， were put to good use in battle 148 00:08:30,821 --> 00:08:34,754 当简化曲棍球棍换成了剑。 when the shinty stick was swapped for a sword. 149 00:08:34,804 --> 00:08:35,799 - 这是一项艰苦、身体对抗激烈的运动， - It's a tough, physical game, 150 00:08:35,849 --> 00:08:37,801 每个人都知道也预期如此， everybody knows that and everybody expects that 151 00:08:37,851 --> 00:08:39,409 当他们踏上球场时。 when they walk onto the park. 152 00:08:39,459 --> 00:08:40,594 这也是观众 And that's what the spectators 153 00:08:40,644 --> 00:08:42,906 和支持者来这里观看的原因。 and the supporters come here to watch. 154 00:08:42,956 --> 00:08:45,498 与简化曲棍球教练阿拉斯代尔·布鲁斯 Speaking to shinty coaches Alasdair Bruce 155 00:08:45,548 --> 00:08:47,734 和道格拉斯·麦克杜格尔交谈，唤起了 and Douglas MacDougall is bringing back 156 00:08:47,784 --> 00:08:51,299 我所有学校操场的噩梦。 all my school playing field nightmares. 157 00:08:51,349 --> 00:08:52,505 相当激烈的运动，不是吗？ Quite a ferocious game isn't it? 158 00:08:52,555 --> 00:08:53,338 是啊。 Yeah. 159 00:08:53,388 --> 00:08:54,846 这不是给胆小者玩的运动，对吧？ It's not a game for the faint of heart is it? 160 00:08:54,896 --> 00:08:56,538 - 人们会受伤，但没人真的 - People get hurt but nobody really 161 00:08:56,588 --> 00:08:58,150 表露出自己受伤了。 lets on that they're hurt. 162 00:08:58,200 --> 00:08:59,989 嗯，这算是一种刺激，不是吗？ Well, that's kind of the excitement isn't it? 163 00:09:00,039 --> 00:09:02,304 因为这项运动确实伴随着一点肾上腺素， Because the sport does go with a wee bit of adrenaline 164 00:09:02,354 --> 00:09:03,645 而且是一场激动人心的比赛。 and it's an exciting game. 165 00:09:03,695 --> 00:09:06,368 - 是的。相当壮观。 - It is. It's quite a spectacle. 166 00:09:06,418 --> 00:09:08,727 这家俱乐部成立于1880年代， This club was formed in the 1880's 167 00:09:08,777 --> 00:09:13,325 第一次伟大的胜利是在1898年， and one of the first great triumphs came in 1898 168 00:09:13,375 --> 00:09:16,542 当时他们的队伍赢得了麦克塔维什杯。 when their team won the MacTavish Cup. 169 00:09:17,740 --> 00:09:20,644 但照片中的许多人离开了家乡的简化曲棍球场， But many of those pictured here swapped the shinty fields 170 00:09:20,694 --> 00:09:23,944 奔赴法国的战场。 of home for the battlefields of France. 171 00:09:26,179 --> 00:09:28,941 - 1915年，有一批来自波特里的年轻人 - 1915 there was a number of boys from Portree 172 00:09:28,991 --> 00:09:31,687 打过简化曲棍球，他们出发去了法国。 who played shinty headed off the France. 173 00:09:31,737 --> 00:09:34,146 费斯提贝尔战役是 The Battle of Festubert was one of 174 00:09:34,196 --> 00:09:37,389 第一次世界大战中最血腥的战役之一， the bloodiest battles of the first World War 175 00:09:37,439 --> 00:09:39,389 我记得，如果我没记错的话， and I think if I can recall there was 176 00:09:39,439 --> 00:09:42,223 大约有2万人在10天内阵亡。 about 20,000 men lost over a 10 day period. 177 00:09:42,273 --> 00:09:46,210 单是从波特里离开的小伙子们，我的意思是， And from the guys that left Portree alone I mean, 178 00:09:46,260 --> 00:09:48,449 说起来，有11个人 well to talk about, there was 11 179 00:09:48,499 --> 00:09:51,332 来自这个村庄，再也没有回来。 from the village didn't come back. 180 00:09:52,959 --> 00:09:55,744 他们中的一些人是曾参加过 Some of them were players that had played 181 00:09:55,794 --> 00:09:59,692 1898年麦克塔维什杯夺冠队伍的球员。 in the 1898 and MacTavish Cup winning team. 182 00:09:59,742 --> 00:10:01,306 那是个可怕的时期，不是吗？ It was a terrible time wasn't it? 183 00:10:01,356 --> 00:10:02,843 是的，影响巨大。 Yeah it was huge. 184 00:10:02,893 --> 00:10:04,385 都是年轻人。 It was young guys. 185 00:10:04,435 --> 00:10:06,245 - 你知道，他们说那是一场工业式的 - You know, they said it was an industrial 186 00:10:06,295 --> 00:10:08,405 屠杀，当时，那是第一次世界大战中第一场重大、 massacre at the time, it was the first big, bloody 187 00:10:08,455 --> 00:10:10,625 血腥的战役， battle of the first World War 188 00:10:10,675 --> 00:10:13,758 涉及来自这些岛屿的人们。 involving guys from the islands here. 189 00:10:19,693 --> 00:10:24,026 所以，去年，正好是100周年纪念日， So, last year, exactly 100 years to the day 190 00:10:24,076 --> 00:10:27,083 我们聚在一起打了几场简化曲棍球比赛。 we met up and played several shinty games. 191 00:10:27,133 --> 00:10:30,680 最吸引人的比赛是斯凯队对金尤西队， Main attraction game was Skye against Kingussie where, 192 00:10:30,730 --> 00:10:34,753 双方都有一些在费斯提贝尔战斗过的 on both sides, a number of descendants of men 193 00:10:34,803 --> 00:10:38,459 士兵的后代在场上比赛，所以这—— that had fought at Festubert were playing and so it was-- 194 00:10:38,509 --> 00:10:40,659 这也显示出这项运动 It also shows how deeply, kind of, 195 00:10:40,709 --> 00:10:42,982 在社区中扎根之深。 rooted in the community this game is. 196 00:10:43,032 --> 00:10:47,521 - 是的，简化曲棍球俱乐部是社区的重要组成部分。 - Yes and the shinty club is a huge part of the community. 197 00:10:47,571 --> 00:10:50,822 - 在有人把简化曲棍球棍塞进我手里之前， - Before someone thrusts a shinty stick in my hand 198 00:10:50,872 --> 00:10:52,372 我找了个借口溜了。 I make my excuses. 199 00:10:53,629 --> 00:10:56,619 白蜡木球棍的撞击声仍在耳边回响， And with a clash of the ash still ringing in my ears, 200 00:10:56,669 --> 00:10:59,562 我继续北行，在岛上最迷人的地点之一， I make my way north, stopping off at one of 201 00:10:59,612 --> 00:11:03,779 仙女谷，稍作停留。 the island's most enchanting spots, the Fairy Glen. 202 00:11:11,749 --> 00:11:15,025 仙女们的名声有点吓人。 Now fairies have something of a scary reputation. 203 00:11:15,075 --> 00:11:17,985 在传说中，尤其是在斯凯岛这里， In legend, especially here on Skye 204 00:11:18,035 --> 00:11:21,619 这里被认为是苏格兰的仙女之都， which is considered to be the fairy capital of Scotland, 205 00:11:21,669 --> 00:11:24,485 她们以好战、意志坚强、 they're known as warlike, strong-willed, 206 00:11:24,535 --> 00:11:28,035 能造成巨大伤害的超自然生物而闻名。 supernatural beings capable of great harm. 207 00:11:33,213 --> 00:11:36,344 流传着许多故事，比如孩子被从家中带走， Stories abound of children being taken from their homes 208 00:11:36,394 --> 00:11:38,587 被调包成换生灵， to be replaced with changelings, 209 00:11:38,637 --> 00:11:41,146 或者人们被带入仙丘， or people taken into fairy mounds 210 00:11:41,196 --> 00:11:44,424 感觉只过了片刻，但当他们出来时， for what seems a few moments, but when they emerge, 211 00:11:44,474 --> 00:11:48,641 却发现几天甚至几年已经过去。 discover that several days or even years have passed. 212 00:11:49,837 --> 00:11:53,227 我最喜欢的是美丽的仙女女王 My favorite is where the beautiful queen of the fairies 213 00:11:53,277 --> 00:11:57,444 引诱一个凡人男子，并迅速将他带往仙境。 seduces a mortal man and whisks him off to fairy land. 214 00:11:59,850 --> 00:12:03,626 现在我前方那片突出的岩石被称为尤恩城堡。 Now that rocky outcrop ahead of me is known as Castle Ewen. 215 00:12:03,676 --> 00:12:06,566 也许那就是仙女女王设朝听政的地方。 Now perhaps that's where the fairy queen holds court. 216 00:12:11,133 --> 00:12:14,043 仙女在斯凯岛的地位如此重要， Such was the importance was the fairies on Skye 217 00:12:14,093 --> 00:12:16,486 以至于麦克劳德氏族有一面旗帜， that clan MacLeod have a flag 218 00:12:16,536 --> 00:12:20,664 据说是仙女情人送给酋长的礼物。 said to be a gift to the chief from his fairy lover. 219 00:12:20,714 --> 00:12:23,563 他们曾两次带着它投入战斗， On two occasions they carried it into battle 220 00:12:23,613 --> 00:12:26,446 两次都取得了胜利。 and both times emerged victorious. 221 00:12:27,836 --> 00:12:31,144 它至今仍保存在邓韦根城堡。 It's still held in Dunvegan Castle. 222 00:12:31,194 --> 00:12:32,277 我到了。 I've made it. 223 00:12:33,357 --> 00:12:34,646 也很不错。 Very nice too. 224 00:12:34,696 --> 00:12:37,317 这地方归我独享了。 Got the place to myself. 225 00:12:37,367 --> 00:12:40,050 尽管我很想和仙女们远走高飞， As much as I'd love to be away with the fairies, 226 00:12:40,100 --> 00:12:41,665 尤其是他们的女王， especially their queen, 227 00:12:41,715 --> 00:12:44,545 但今天我遇到任何仙女的机会都很渺茫。 there's little chance of me meeting any today. 228 00:12:44,595 --> 00:12:47,243 所以我回到了现实世界， So instead I returned to the real world 229 00:12:47,293 --> 00:12:49,867 和乌伊格村。 and the village of Uig. 230 00:12:49,917 --> 00:12:51,787 在穿越全岛旅行后， Having traveled across the island 231 00:12:51,837 --> 00:12:54,283 我越来越意识到盖尔文化 I'm increasingly aware of just how big a part 232 00:12:54,333 --> 00:12:57,546 在斯凯岛的生活中扮演着多么重要的角色。 Gaelic culture plays in the life of Skye. 233 00:12:57,596 --> 00:12:59,963 它通过语言、 It's something that's celebrated through language, 234 00:13:00,013 --> 00:13:02,667 文学以及音乐得到颂扬。 literature, and also music. 235 00:13:02,717 --> 00:13:05,883 但直到最近，几个世纪的忽视使得 But until recently, centuries of neglect have left 236 00:13:05,933 --> 00:13:09,600 该文化处于极度弱势的状态。 the culture in a desperately weak condition. 237 00:13:10,595 --> 00:13:12,923 然后，在1980年代，Runrig乐队， Then, in the 1980's, the band Runrig, 238 00:13:12,973 --> 00:13:16,705 闯入乐坛，重振了盖尔人的自豪感， burst onto the music scene and restored Gaelic pride, 239 00:13:16,755 --> 00:13:20,922 他们的音乐灵感源自斯凯岛的历史和语言。 with music inspired by the history and language of Skye. 240 00:13:21,916 --> 00:13:24,833 他们的主唱是唐尼·芒罗。 Their lead singer was Donnie Munro. 241 00:13:25,850 --> 00:13:28,523 我在乌伊格上方的山坡上与他见面， And I'm meeting him on the hillside above Uig 242 00:13:28,573 --> 00:13:31,307 旁边是一座极具象征意义的建筑。 beside a hugely symbolic building. 243 00:13:31,357 --> 00:13:33,483 唐尼，那边有座看起来很特别的塔。 That's a remarkable looking tower there, Donnie. 244 00:13:33,533 --> 00:13:35,483 它是什么，是废墟还是观赏建筑？ Now what is it, is it a ruin is it a folly? 245 00:13:35,533 --> 00:13:39,700 - 嗯，它算是一座观赏建筑，可以追溯到大约1860年， - Well, I mean it is a folly and it dates back to about 1860 246 00:13:41,994 --> 00:13:45,707 当地人称它为弗雷泽的愚作。 and it's known locally as Fraser's Folly. 247 00:13:45,757 --> 00:13:47,665 它是这片景观中一座有趣的建筑， It's an interesting building in the landscape 248 00:13:47,715 --> 00:13:50,485 但在很多方面，从历史角度来看， but in many ways, in historical terms, 249 00:13:50,535 --> 00:13:53,963 它象征着当地一段 it's kind of iconic of a period in the local area 250 00:13:54,013 --> 00:13:55,630 对人们来说非常艰难的时期。 that was very difficult for people. 251 00:13:55,680 --> 00:13:57,641 你知道，就是周期性的清理运动。 You know, the periodic clearances. 252 00:13:57,691 --> 00:14:01,005 弗雷泽是地主，这座塔实际上建在 Fraser was the landlord and this tower was actually built 253 00:14:01,055 --> 00:14:03,701 弗雷泽地产的许多佃农 on the sight where many of the tenants of the Fraser 254 00:14:03,751 --> 00:14:05,885 前来缴纳地租的地方。 estate came to pay the rent. 255 00:14:05,935 --> 00:14:08,263 当他更清楚地意识到 And when it became more apparent to him 256 00:14:08,313 --> 00:14:10,859 把羊和牧羊人带到土地上 that it was more profitable to bring in sheep 257 00:14:10,909 --> 00:14:13,763 更有利可图时， and sheep farmers onto the land 258 00:14:13,813 --> 00:14:16,286 他就简单地移走了许多他的佃农， he simply removed many of his tenants, 259 00:14:16,336 --> 00:14:18,142 在某些地区手段相当残酷。 pretty brutally in certain areas. 260 00:14:18,192 --> 00:14:19,603 那么他是斯凯岛北部清理运动中 So he was a key player 261 00:14:19,653 --> 00:14:20,985 的一个关键人物了？ in the clearances in the north end of Skye then? 262 00:14:21,035 --> 00:14:21,982 - 他确实是。 - He certainly was. 263 00:14:22,032 --> 00:14:23,561 人们从这片土地上消失， People disappeared off this landscape 264 00:14:23,611 --> 00:14:27,145 就是因为弗雷泽船长这样的人。 due to the people like Captain Fraser. 265 00:14:27,195 --> 00:14:30,505 当然，你知道，对于我们这代成长起来的人， And certainly, you know, for my generation growing up 266 00:14:30,555 --> 00:14:32,382 你知道，在上学的时候， you know, in going to school, 267 00:14:32,432 --> 00:14:36,665 我们对此类事情的发生 you know we had absolutely no sense whatsoever 268 00:14:36,715 --> 00:14:39,203 完全一无所知。 that all of this stuff had gone on. 269 00:14:39,253 --> 00:14:40,802 自从离开Runrig乐队后， Since leaving Runrig, 270 00:14:40,852 --> 00:14:42,841 唐尼开始涉足政界， Donnie has become involved in politics 271 00:14:42,891 --> 00:14:45,385 并做了大量工作来鼓励和支持 and does much to encourage and support 272 00:14:45,435 --> 00:14:47,935 岛上的盖尔文化。 Gaelic culture on the islands. 273 00:14:48,955 --> 00:14:51,699 - 我非常幸运能参与到 - I'm very fortunate to be involved with 274 00:14:51,749 --> 00:14:55,261 一个非常鼓舞人心的机构，叫做萨巴尔莫尔奥斯塔格学院， a very inspirational institution called Sabhal Mor Ostaig 275 00:14:55,311 --> 00:14:57,721 它是国家盖尔语言与文化 which is the National Center for the Development 276 00:14:57,771 --> 00:14:59,502 发展中心。 of Gaelic Language and Culture. 277 00:14:59,552 --> 00:15:02,958 它是唯一一所 And it's the only university which provides 278 00:15:03,008 --> 00:15:05,043 全部学位课程都通过 all of its degree programs through 279 00:15:05,093 --> 00:15:06,761 盖尔语媒介授课的大学。 the medium of Gaelic language. 280 00:15:06,811 --> 00:15:08,761 你知道，从预科一直到博士学位。 You know, right through from access right through to PHDs. 281 00:15:08,811 --> 00:15:12,061 这一切都是为了提供机会，提供优质教育。 That is all about giving opportunity, good education. 282 00:15:12,111 --> 00:15:14,281 你知道，这些都是人们 You know, the things that people need 283 00:15:14,331 --> 00:15:16,831 在世界任何地方生活都需要的东西。 to live anywhere in the world. 284 00:15:18,272 --> 00:15:20,221 如今，这里的孩子们在成长过程中 Nowadays, children here grow up 285 00:15:20,271 --> 00:15:22,361 都理解清理运动 with an understanding how the clearances 286 00:15:22,411 --> 00:15:24,828 如何塑造了这座岛屿的历史。 shaped this island's history. 287 00:15:26,933 --> 00:15:29,283 随着人口的不断增长， And with an ever-increasing population 288 00:15:29,333 --> 00:15:31,916 斯凯岛的情况正在好转。 things are looking up for Skye. 289 00:15:36,171 --> 00:15:38,080 继续我的探索之旅， Continuing my exploration, 290 00:15:38,130 --> 00:15:41,038 我返回特洛特尼什岭， I head back to the Trotternish Ridge, 291 00:15:41,088 --> 00:15:45,255 在斯塔芬的小农庄定居点稍作停留。 stopping off at the small crofting settlement of Staffin. 292 00:15:47,109 --> 00:15:49,918 我来给父子俩 I've come to lend a hand to father and son 293 00:15:49,968 --> 00:15:51,721 伊恩和卡卢姆·麦克唐纳帮个忙。 Ian and Calum MacDonald. 294 00:15:53,473 --> 00:15:55,501 他们正准备把他们的牛 They're about to move their cattle 295 00:15:55,551 --> 00:15:57,981 转移到附近的一个岛屿上去。 to one of the nearby islands. 296 00:15:58,031 --> 00:15:59,085 那么计划是什么？ So what is the plan? 297 00:15:59,135 --> 00:16:00,285 你来驱赶吗？ You gonna drive? 298 00:16:00,335 --> 00:16:01,602 - 我现在就把它们带过去。 - I'm gonna take them just now. 299 00:16:01,652 --> 00:16:02,605 好的。 Right. 300 00:16:02,655 --> 00:16:04,045 - 我们让牛准备好，希望 - We'll get the bawl sheddy and then hopefully 301 00:16:04,095 --> 00:16:05,725 一切顺利。 it'll all go swimmingly. 302 00:16:05,775 --> 00:16:06,903 - 我来帮你。 - I'll give you a hand. 303 00:16:06,953 --> 00:16:07,922 - 好的好的。 - Okey doke. 304 00:16:07,972 --> 00:16:09,032 - 太好了。 - Good stuff. 305 00:16:15,542 --> 00:16:17,142 - 在我旅行过程中， - Now in the course of my travels, 306 00:16:17,192 --> 00:16:20,399 我对这类事已经有点老手了。 I've become a bit of an old hand at this sort of thing. 307 00:16:20,449 --> 00:16:21,542 快走！ Get on there! 308 00:16:21,592 --> 00:16:24,703 我已经和几十只羊同乘过一条船了， I've already shared a boat with dozens of sheep 309 00:16:24,753 --> 00:16:28,503 所以我猜这次也差不多。 so I imagine this works in much the same way. 310 00:16:30,392 --> 00:16:33,023 在卡卢姆先去准备船的时候， While Calum goes ahead to ready the boat, 311 00:16:33,073 --> 00:16:36,705 我和伊恩把这一小群牛赶到岸边。 Ian and I drive the tiny herd down to the shore. 312 00:16:36,755 --> 00:16:37,915 这活儿真累人。 It's exhausting work, this. 313 00:16:37,965 --> 00:16:41,841 为了赶潮水，我们不能耽搁。 And to beat the tide, we can't hang around. 314 00:16:41,891 --> 00:16:44,891 需要马的时候你的马在哪儿？ Where's your horse when you need it? 315 00:16:48,012 --> 00:16:49,981 你倒好，伊恩，你有轮子（指摩托车）。 That's alright for you, Ian, you've got wheels. 316 00:16:50,031 --> 00:16:50,979 - 唉 我知道。 - Ay I know. 317 00:16:51,029 --> 00:16:52,861 - 跑路的活儿都归我了。 - And I'll just do all the running. 318 00:16:52,911 --> 00:16:56,161 所以我们得从那儿游过去。 So that's where we have to swim them across there. 319 00:16:56,211 --> 00:16:57,044 - 哦 是的。 - Oh yes. 320 00:16:58,113 --> 00:17:00,202 - 那不算太远。 - That's not so far. 321 00:17:00,252 --> 00:17:03,665 这是斯塔芬岛，对我们这小群牛来说， This is Staffin Island and for our small herd 322 00:17:03,715 --> 00:17:06,481 那边的草更绿。 the grass is greener over there. 323 00:17:06,531 --> 00:17:10,698 但要过去，它们不会和我们一起坐船。 But to get across, they won't be on the boat with us. 324 00:17:13,190 --> 00:17:17,597 在这附近，牛得自己挣晚餐。 Around here, the cattle have to work for their supper. 325 00:17:17,647 --> 00:17:21,503 我得说，我以前从没见过牛游泳。 Now I have to say, I've never seen a cow swim before. 326 00:17:21,553 --> 00:17:25,755 但在斯凯岛，这算是一种小农庄的传统。 But here on Skye, it's something of a crofting tradition. 327 00:17:25,805 --> 00:17:28,719 卡卢姆，你奇迹般地把牛赶进了水里。 Now Calum, you've got the cows miraculously in the water. 328 00:17:28,769 --> 00:17:31,003 它们是天生就会下水吗？ Do they take to the water naturally? 329 00:17:31,053 --> 00:17:33,983 - 嗯这些牛会，因为它们就是去那儿， - Well these ones do because that's where they go 330 00:17:34,033 --> 00:17:36,081 而且它们习惯了。 and they're used to it. 331 00:17:36,131 --> 00:17:40,298 牛通常不会自然地下水，不会。 Cows wouldn't normally naturally go into water, no. 332 00:17:45,727 --> 00:17:47,803 - 这里到对岸有多远？ - What distance is it across here? 333 00:17:47,853 --> 00:17:49,800 - 嗯在低潮时，你知道， - Well at low tide, it's, you know, 334 00:17:49,850 --> 00:17:53,263 大概400，500码吧，低潮的时候。 400, 500 yards maybe with low tide. 335 00:17:53,313 --> 00:17:55,595 - 事实上，卡卢姆经常要 - In fact, Calum would often be in there 336 00:17:55,645 --> 00:17:57,903 和牛群一起游过去。 swimming with the herd. 337 00:17:57,953 --> 00:18:01,702 但谢天谢地，我今天不用换上泳裤。 But thankfully I won't be putting my trunks on today. 338 00:18:01,752 --> 00:18:04,043 我想它们会很高兴游过去的。 Well they'll be glad to get across I imagine. 339 00:18:04,093 --> 00:18:06,783 - 它们会的，游完这一趟它们会累的， - They will, they'll be tired after this one 340 00:18:06,833 --> 00:18:08,582 因为虽然现在是平潮， because although it's slack tide 341 00:18:08,632 --> 00:18:10,961 但这里还是有点水流。 there's still a bit of a current going through here. 342 00:18:11,011 --> 00:18:13,041 所以，确实会累的。 So, indeed they will. 343 00:18:13,091 --> 00:18:14,801 - 我也会挺累的。 - I'm gonna be quite tired as well. 344 00:18:14,851 --> 00:18:17,018 - 是啊，试试看吧。 - Yeah, just give it a go. 345 00:18:21,345 --> 00:18:23,105 让它们肚子里装满青草， Fill their bellies with green grass 346 00:18:23,155 --> 00:18:25,702 它们就会反刍一会儿， and they'll just chew their cud for a while 347 00:18:25,752 --> 00:18:28,123 见见那边其他的牛， and meet the other cows that are there 348 00:18:28,173 --> 00:18:30,423 它们的一天就结束了。 and their day will be over. 349 00:18:31,315 --> 00:18:33,846 - 看来牛已经踩到 - So it looks as if the cows have got the bottom 350 00:18:33,896 --> 00:18:35,846 水底了，正如人们说的。 under their feet as they say. 351 00:18:35,896 --> 00:18:37,403 它们好像在走。 They seem to be walking. 352 00:18:37,453 --> 00:18:38,726 它们实际上正在上岸。 They're actually getting out. 353 00:18:38,776 --> 00:18:40,246 - 唉，对它们来说也挺费劲的， - Ay, and it's quite a struggle for them as well 354 00:18:40,296 --> 00:18:41,763 因为那里有长长的缠结物， cause there's long tangle there 355 00:18:41,813 --> 00:18:43,846 而且它们，你知道，它们累了， and they're, you know, they're tired 356 00:18:43,896 --> 00:18:45,222 有点打滑。 and they're slipping a wee bit. 357 00:18:45,272 --> 00:18:46,625 有东西缠住了它们的腿， Things are getting wrapped around their legs 358 00:18:46,675 --> 00:18:48,803 但它们知道已经到岸了。 but they know they're on the shore. 359 00:18:48,853 --> 00:18:50,443 - 哈利路亚，它们成功了。 - Hallelujah they made it. 360 00:18:50,493 --> 00:18:52,305 - 动物的本能在那儿。 - Animal instinct there. 361 00:18:52,355 --> 00:18:55,438 它们会到达需要去的地方。 They'll get to where they need to go. 362 00:18:56,307 --> 00:19:00,474 - 那么，吆喝一声，我也该溜了。 - So with a yeehaw, it's time for me to skedaddle. 363 00:19:01,912 --> 00:19:04,963 我回到了山脊上，正穿过神秘 I'm back on the ridge and passing through the mysterious 364 00:19:05,013 --> 00:19:07,596 且名字美妙的奎雷ang。 and wonderfully named Quiraing. 365 00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:15,745 这整片风景看起来像是从 This whole landscape looks like it's come from the pages 366 00:19:15,795 --> 00:19:18,966 托尔金的《指环王》书页中走出来的。 of Tolkein's Lord of the Rings. 367 00:19:19,016 --> 00:19:20,943 这里可能就是中土世界， This could be Middle Earth, 368 00:19:20,993 --> 00:19:24,107 一个英雄和伟大事迹的国度。 a land of heroes and mighty deeds. 369 00:19:28,591 --> 00:19:31,489 正如托尔金创造了一个虚构的宇宙， Just as Tolkien created a fictional universe, 370 00:19:31,539 --> 00:19:34,449 里面居住着兽人、精灵和巫师， populated with orcs, elves, and wizards, 371 00:19:34,499 --> 00:19:37,867 卷入一场善恶的史诗级斗争， engaged in an epic struggle of good versus evil, 372 00:19:37,917 --> 00:19:40,326 创造奎雷的力量 so the forces that created the Quiraing 373 00:19:40,376 --> 00:19:44,845 在数百万年间也同样充满戏剧性。 over millions of years were equally dramatic. 374 00:19:44,895 --> 00:19:47,505 你得想象一下斯凯岛在 You have to imagine what Skye might of looked like 375 00:19:47,555 --> 00:19:49,985 四、五千万年前可能的样子。 40, 50,000,000 years ago. 376 00:19:50,035 --> 00:19:52,587 那时一座巨大的火山主宰着这里， Dominated by a huge volcano which 377 00:19:52,637 --> 00:19:55,966 它高出海平面4000米。 rose 4,000 meters above the sea. 378 00:19:56,016 --> 00:19:58,991 这座火山喷发出难以想象的 This volcano pumped out unimaginable quantities 379 00:19:59,041 --> 00:20:02,501 熔岩量，这些熔岩冷却后形成了熔岩床， of molten rock which cooled to form the lava beds 380 00:20:02,551 --> 00:20:05,968 构成了今天的特洛特尼什岭。 that make up the Trotternish Ridge today. 381 00:20:07,114 --> 00:20:11,281 但斯凯岛的地质剧变并未停止。 But Skye's geological convulsions didn't stop there. 382 00:20:12,570 --> 00:20:15,823 这里的熔岩层厚约300米， The lava here is about 300 meters thick 383 00:20:15,873 --> 00:20:19,005 它覆盖在古老得多、松软得多的岩石上， and it sits on top of much older, softer rock 384 00:20:19,055 --> 00:20:21,885 这些岩石在巨大的重量下 literally 垮塌了， which literally gave way under the colossal weight 385 00:20:21,935 --> 00:20:25,005 土地裂开并滑移， and the land split and slipped away 386 00:20:25,055 --> 00:20:27,523 滑向我现在所处位置的东边。 east of where I'm now sitting. 387 00:20:27,573 --> 00:20:29,507 嗯，显然，它仍在移动， Well apparently, it's still moving 388 00:20:29,557 --> 00:20:31,544 每年移动几厘米。 a few centimeters each year. 389 00:20:31,594 --> 00:20:34,844 一种慢动作的自然灾害。 A kind of slow motion natural disaster. 390 00:20:37,317 --> 00:20:40,365 在这些地质巨物之中，有一个地方 And there's one place among these geological giants 391 00:20:40,415 --> 00:20:43,332 确实值得一看。 that really is something to behold. 392 00:20:44,353 --> 00:20:46,403 奎雷ang的中心是“桌子”， At the heart of the Quiraing is the table, 393 00:20:46,453 --> 00:20:50,147 一个非凡的、高抬起的运动场，真的。 an extraordinary, elevated playing field really. 394 00:20:50,197 --> 00:20:52,525 我听说古代的斯凯岛人 Where I'm told that Skye men of old 395 00:20:52,575 --> 00:20:56,742 曾在此享受过仲夏简化曲棍球赛的白蜡木球棍碰撞。 enjoyed the clash of the ash at a midsummer shinty match. 396 00:20:58,593 --> 00:21:02,760 就体育场而言，很难想象有比这更令人印象深刻的。 As stadiums go, it's hard to imagine one more impressive. 397 00:21:06,949 --> 00:21:10,583 看来壮观的景象在这里是家常便饭， It would seem that the spectacular is commonplace here 398 00:21:10,633 --> 00:21:13,923 既然我听说来斯凯岛 and since I've been told you can't come to Skye 399 00:21:13,973 --> 00:21:16,787 不能不钓鲑鱼，所以毫不奇怪 without fishing for salmon, it's no surprise 400 00:21:16,837 --> 00:21:18,824 我被带到了一个 that I'm being taken to a spot 401 00:21:18,874 --> 00:21:21,507 恰好看起来像是 that just happens to look like something 402 00:21:21,557 --> 00:21:24,307 出自被时间遗忘之地的地方。 out of the land that time forgot. 403 00:21:27,855 --> 00:21:29,443 这位置真壮观。 That's a spectacular location. 404 00:21:29,493 --> 00:21:31,061 那边的瀑布。 The waterfall there. 405 00:21:31,111 --> 00:21:32,065 太美了。 It's stunning. 406 00:21:32,115 --> 00:21:33,907 这条河是叫利奥河吗？ Now this river is called the Leo? 407 00:21:33,957 --> 00:21:34,904 利奥河。 The leo. 408 00:21:34,954 --> 00:21:39,452 伊恩·斯图尔特很熟悉这片水域。 Ian Stewart knows these waters well. 409 00:21:39,502 --> 00:21:42,461 作为任何想学习飞蝇钓鲑鱼 And as the go-to guy for anyone wanting to learn 410 00:21:42,511 --> 00:21:46,541 这门神秘艺术的人的首选专家。 about the mystic art of fly fishing for salmon. 411 00:21:46,591 --> 00:21:48,280 - 飞蝇钓的关键在于 - The thing about fly fishing is 412 00:21:48,330 --> 00:21:50,360 不是靠力量而是靠时机。 it's not about strength it's about timing. 413 00:21:50,410 --> 00:21:53,203 当鲑鱼从咸水环境返回， When the salmon returns from the saltwater environment 414 00:21:53,253 --> 00:21:55,864 一进入淡水它就停止进食。 as soon as it hits fresh water it stops feeding. 415 00:21:55,914 --> 00:21:58,103 它没有能力吃任何东西。 It's not capable of eating anything. 416 00:21:58,153 --> 00:22:00,504 但我们试图做的是 But what we're trying to do is 417 00:22:00,554 --> 00:22:03,400 试图触发一种本能反应。 we're trying to trigger an instinctive reaction. 418 00:22:03,450 --> 00:22:05,603 这样它就会去咬某样 So that it actually grabs at something 419 00:22:05,653 --> 00:22:08,003 或多或少惹恼它的东西。 which is more or less annoying it. 420 00:22:08,053 --> 00:22:09,400 好的，我可以试试吗？ Right, shall I have a shot at this? 421 00:22:09,450 --> 00:22:10,981 我是说，你抛投得如此优美， I mean, you're casting so beautifully 422 00:22:11,031 --> 00:22:13,877 让我意识到这是一门艺术。 and you're making me realize that it's an art. 423 00:22:17,231 --> 00:22:18,483 那么我们来吧。 So here we are. 424 00:22:18,533 --> 00:22:20,083 是的。 Yeah. 425 00:22:20,133 --> 00:22:21,878 唉刚才那个没希望。 Yeah now that was hopeless. 426 00:22:21,928 --> 00:22:24,699 关键在于时机和节奏。 It's about timing and rhythm. 427 00:22:24,749 --> 00:22:26,196 就像当个音乐家。 It's like being a musician. 428 00:22:26,246 --> 00:22:27,029 - 是的。 - It is. 429 00:22:27,079 --> 00:22:27,862 弦乐器。 A stringed instrument. 430 00:22:27,912 --> 00:22:28,695 - 是的 是的。 - Yes yes. 431 00:22:28,745 --> 00:22:29,528 单弦乐器。 A single stringed instrument. 432 00:22:29,578 --> 00:22:30,361 - 非常非常相似。 - It is very very similar. 433 00:22:30,411 --> 00:22:31,194 钓竿和钓线。 A rod and line. 434 00:22:31,244 --> 00:22:33,226 - 是的，非常相似。 - Yes very similar. 435 00:22:33,276 --> 00:22:35,146 - 不，绝对，就是这样。 - No, absolutely, that's it. 436 00:22:35,196 --> 00:22:36,903 如果你把线收短点， If you shorten your line out, 437 00:22:36,953 --> 00:22:38,506 就把线收短一点点。 just shorten the line a wee bit. 438 00:22:38,556 --> 00:22:40,003 你在这里钓到过最大的鱼有多大？ What's the biggest fish you've ever caught here? 439 00:22:40,053 --> 00:22:42,703 我钓到过最大的鱼是18磅。 Biggest fish I've ever caught is 18 pounds. 440 00:22:42,753 --> 00:22:45,647 我只能说你永远不会忘记你的第一条鲑鱼。 All I can say is you never forget your first salmon. 441 00:22:45,697 --> 00:22:47,823 我记得我钓到的第一条鲑鱼， I can remember the first salmon I caught 442 00:22:47,873 --> 00:22:49,487 直到今天还和 as vividly today as I did 443 00:22:49,537 --> 00:22:51,663 我14岁在校时一样清晰。 when I was a 14 year old schoolboy. 444 00:22:51,713 --> 00:22:52,666 你那时14岁？ You were 14? 445 00:22:52,716 --> 00:22:53,799 是的。 Yeah. 446 00:22:56,076 --> 00:23:00,623 几个小时过去了，没有鱼上我的飞蝇钩。 After several hours, no fish has taken my fly. 447 00:23:00,673 --> 00:23:04,986 但至少我的技术似乎有所提高。 But at least my technique seems to be improving. 448 00:23:05,036 --> 00:23:07,061 - 真的很不错，保罗，真的很不错。 - That's really good, Paul, really good. 449 00:23:07,111 --> 00:23:08,421 你放松了。 You've relaxed. 450 00:23:08,471 --> 00:23:09,983 你现在一定感觉自己放松了。 You must feel yourself relaxed now. 451 00:23:10,033 --> 00:23:11,327 是的，是的，我非常冷静。 Yeah, yeah I'm so chill. 452 00:23:11,377 --> 00:23:12,506 - 是的，那样很好。 - Yeah that's good. 453 00:23:12,556 --> 00:23:14,186 这就是飞蝇钓的全部意义。 That's what fly fishing's all about. 454 00:23:14,236 --> 00:23:16,202 钓到鱼是额外的奖励。 Catching a fish is a bonus. 455 00:23:16,252 --> 00:23:18,783 - 如果我有幸在这里钓到鱼， - Now if I'm lucky enough here to catch a fish 456 00:23:18,833 --> 00:23:21,183 我想我得再把它放生吧。 I suppose I'll have to release it again. 457 00:23:21,233 --> 00:23:22,186 - 是的，没错。 - Yes that's right. 458 00:23:22,236 --> 00:23:23,941 从今年起，苏格兰政府 Since this year the Scottish government 459 00:23:23,991 --> 00:23:28,021 发布了新规定，现在从任何西海岸河流 have issued new regulations whereby it's illegal now 460 00:23:28,071 --> 00:23:31,523 捕捞野生鲑鱼都是非法的。 to take a wild salmon from any of the west coast rivers. 461 00:23:31,573 --> 00:23:32,725 - 真的吗？是违法的？ - Really? It's illegal? 462 00:23:32,775 --> 00:23:34,581 - 这包括所有斯凯岛的河流。 - And that includes all the Skye rivers. 463 00:23:34,631 --> 00:23:35,578 是的，违法。 Illegal yes. 464 00:23:35,628 --> 00:23:36,645 - 为什么这样规定？ - Why is this? 465 00:23:36,695 --> 00:23:38,325 - 为了保育目的。 - For conservation purposes. 466 00:23:38,375 --> 00:23:40,367 野生鲑鱼种群，你知道， The wild salmon stocks, you know, 467 00:23:40,417 --> 00:23:42,725 已经严重枯竭，而且在许多方面， it's severely depleted and in many respects 468 00:23:42,775 --> 00:23:44,746 钓鱼者是最好的保育主义者， anglers are the best conservationists 469 00:23:44,796 --> 00:23:47,103 因为确保鱼类生存 because it's in our self-interest to try 470 00:23:47,153 --> 00:23:50,153 符合我们的自身利益。 and make sure that the fish survive. 471 00:23:53,671 --> 00:23:55,583 - 新的“钓获放流”政策 - The new catch and release policy 472 00:23:55,633 --> 00:23:58,223 仍然让钓鱼者享受他们的运动， still allows anglers to enjoy their sport, 473 00:23:58,273 --> 00:24:00,703 但对于世代的岛民来说， but for generations of islanders, 474 00:24:00,753 --> 00:24:04,170 鲑鱼捕捞一直是他们的生计。 salmon fishing has been their livelihood. 475 00:24:08,375 --> 00:24:11,081 在这整个海岸周围，曾有许多渔站， All around this coast, there were fishing stations 476 00:24:11,131 --> 00:24:14,220 在那里，渔获物以传统方式上岸， where catches were landed in the traditional way 477 00:24:14,270 --> 00:24:16,937 使用所谓的袋网。 using what's known as a bag net. 478 00:24:17,831 --> 00:24:19,582 为了更多地了解这个迷人行业 To find out more about the history 479 00:24:19,632 --> 00:24:21,321 的历史， of this fascinating industry, 480 00:24:21,371 --> 00:24:25,742 我来到了退休渔民拉奇·吉利斯的家。 I've come to the home of retired fisherman, Lachie Gillies. 481 00:24:25,792 --> 00:24:28,261 你曾在鲑鱼捕捞业工作过一段时间？ Now you've spent some time at the salmon fishing? 482 00:24:28,311 --> 00:24:29,342 - 是的。 - Yes. 483 00:24:29,392 --> 00:24:30,339 - 而且在那些渔站。 - And at these stations. 484 00:24:30,389 --> 00:24:31,903 - 是的，是的。 - I did I did. 485 00:24:31,953 --> 00:24:33,765 不过那是很久以前的事了，很久以前， That was a while back, though, a long time ago 486 00:24:33,815 --> 00:24:36,898 那时鲑鱼还相当丰富。 when the salmon was fairly plenteous. 487 00:24:38,210 --> 00:24:41,051 那就是我，在斯塔芬岛。 And that's me there, Staffin Island. 488 00:24:41,101 --> 00:24:43,714 那里有一个小屋可以住。 And there was a bothy there where you could stay. 489 00:24:43,764 --> 00:24:45,554 我们周一、周二、 That's where we slept Monday, Tuesday, 490 00:24:45,604 --> 00:24:47,314 周四、周五就睡在那里。 Thursday, and Friday. 491 00:24:47,364 --> 00:24:50,009 斯塔芬有五个男人在工作。 Staffin had five men working in it. 492 00:24:50,059 --> 00:24:51,410 所以你是五个人之一？ So you would of been one of five? 493 00:24:51,460 --> 00:24:52,514 是五个人之一，是的。 One of the five yes. 494 00:24:52,564 --> 00:24:55,213 我当时才，大概20岁出头一点。 I was only what, a little over 20 years of age at the time. 495 00:24:55,263 --> 00:24:57,350 - 你们当时用的捕鱼方法 - Now the fishing that you were doing 496 00:24:57,400 --> 00:24:59,209 是一个相当复杂的系统，不是吗？ it was quite a complicated system was it not? 497 00:24:59,259 --> 00:25:00,230 嗯，是的。 Well it is. 498 00:25:00,280 --> 00:25:04,447 你需要非常注意你在做什么。 You need to pay a lot of attention to what you're doing. 499 00:25:05,819 --> 00:25:08,871 一个大袋网，里面套着一个小一点的袋网， A big bag net and a smaller bag net inside 500 00:25:08,921 --> 00:25:10,813 有点像一种鱼陷阱，并且是固定住的。 is like a fish trap in a way, and attached. 501 00:25:10,863 --> 00:25:12,013 - 就是个笼子。 - It's just a cage. 502 00:25:12,063 --> 00:25:14,990 是个笼子，是的，系在岸上。 It's a cage, yes, tied onto the shore. 503 00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:17,284 - 所以它是一个很大的结构，有点像—— - So it's a big structure you've got in sort of-- 504 00:25:17,334 --> 00:25:18,525 - 哦，整体上是个很大的结构，是的。 - Oh a big structure altogether yes. 505 00:25:18,575 --> 00:25:21,945 但我做得很好，很多很多很多工作。 But I did well, a lot a lot a lot of work. 506 00:极简风格，只返回字幕文件内容。 25:21,995 --> 00:25:22,828 是的，是的。 Yes yes. 507 00:25:25,365 --> 00:25:27,085 能看到这是张大网，对吧？ Can see it's a big net isn't it? 508 00:25:27,135 --> 00:25:28,205 是张大网。 It is a big net. 509 00:25:28,255 --> 00:25:29,038 - 那些是大杆子， - And those are big poles 510 00:25:29,088 --> 00:25:30,085 一直延伸到远处。 and that stretches away into the distance. 511 00:25:30,135 --> 00:25:32,661 - 哦是的，那张网湿了以后， - Oh yes, that net when it's wet 512 00:25:32,711 --> 00:25:36,664 从海里拿出来后，需要四个人才能抬动。 after being out at sea, it needs four men to carry it. 513 00:25:36,714 --> 00:25:37,825 会让你喘不过气。 Make you puff a lot. 514 00:25:39,055 --> 00:25:42,055 哪天你们捕到100条鱼装上船， The day you caught 100 fish on board 515 00:25:44,230 --> 00:25:46,801 波特里的老板总是会 the boss at Portree would always 516 00:25:46,851 --> 00:25:48,781 送下来一瓶威士忌。 send down a bottle of whiskey. 517 00:25:48,831 --> 00:25:49,784 - 真的吗？ - Really? 518 00:25:49,834 --> 00:25:50,781 - 是的。 - Yes. 519 00:极简风格，只返回字幕文件内容。 25:51,834 --> 00:25:53,685 这样你们第二天就能再捕100条。 So that you would make it another 100 the following day. 520 00:25:53,735 --> 00:极简风格，只返回字幕文件内容。 25:55,902 - 这是个好激励。 - That's a good incentive. 521 00:25:56,911 --> 00:25:58,682 在鱼类养殖场出现之前的日子里， In the days before fish farms, 522 00:25:58,732 --> 00:26:01,553 供应给远近各地餐厅的苏格兰鲑鱼， this was how the Scottish salmon, 523 00:26:01,603 --> 00:26:03,781 大多是这样捕获的。 served in restaurants far and wide, 524 00:26:03,831 --> 00:26:06,399 大多是这样捕获的。 would mostly have been caught. 525 00:26:06,449 --> 00:26:08,419 偶尔，人们会在网里发现 And occasionally, the men would find something 526 00:26:08,469 --> 00:26:11,136 相当意想不到的东西。 rather unexpected in their nets. 527 00:26:18,172 --> 00:26:19,518 看起来那是快乐的时光。 They look like happy days. 528 00:26:19,568 --> 00:26:23,137 - 是的，那是快乐的时光，是的是的。 - Yes they were happy days, yes yes. 529 00:26:23,187 --> 00:26:25,770 在你年轻快乐的时候。 While you were young and happy. 530 00:26:29,705 --> 00:26:32,652 - 自拉奇的时代以来，斯凯岛发生了很大变化， - Much has changed on Skye since Lachie's day 531 00:26:32,702 --> 00:26:36,457 如今旅游业已成为该岛的主要产业。 and now tourism has become the island's main industry. 532 00:26:36,507 --> 00:26:39,916 但如果你觉得需要逃离一车车的游客， But if you feel the need to escape the coach loads 533 00:26:39,966 --> 00:26:44,396 仍然有一个地方很少有人去， of visitors there is still one place that few people visit 534 00:26:44,446 --> 极简风格，只返回字幕文件内容。 00:26:47,613 那将是我的最终目的地。 and that will be my final destination. 535 00:26:50,446 --> 00:26:52,609 位于特洛特尼什半岛北海岸仅四英里处， Lying just four miles off the north coast 536 00:26极简风格，只返回字幕文件内容。 :52,659 --> 00:26:54,433 弗拉达-川岛是 of the Trotternish Peninsula, 537 00:26:54,483 --> 00:26:58,483 一串小岛中的一个。 Fladda-chuain is one of a chain of tiny islands. 538 00:27:00,715 --> 00:27:03,671 这些岛屿曾有人居住，但那里一定是 These were once inhabited, but they must of been 539 00:27:03,721 --> 00:27:06,892 极其艰苦的居住地，这让你不禁好奇 desperate places to live and it makes you wonder 540 00:27:06,942 --> 00:27:08,828 那些曾在这些岩石岛屿上 at the nature of the holy men 541 00:27:08,878 --> 00:27:13,532 敬拜上帝的圣徒们的本性。 who once worshiped God from these rocky islands. 542 00:27:13,582 --> 00:27:15,132 据说这些僧侣中有一位 It's said that one of these monks 543 00:27:15,182 --> 00:27:17,507 是个名叫加甘的巨人， was a giant of a man called Gargan 544 00:27:17,557 --> 00:27:21,628 他在1400年前在萨米耶岛建造了他的家， and he built his home at Samye Island 1400 years ago 545 00:27:21,678 --> 00:27:24,095 那时圣哥伦巴还在爱奥那岛。 when St. Colomba was on Iona. 546 00:27:28,649 --> 00:27:31,527 奇怪的是，已知最后一位居住 Strangely, the very last man known to have lived 547 00:27:31,577 --> 00:27:36,337 在这狂风肆虐的岩石上的人，也同样以他的体型闻名。 on this windswept rock, was also famous for his size. 548 00:27:36,387 --> 00:27:40,014 穆拉赫·穆尔，来自马尔岛的大个子。 Muhlach Moore, the big man from Mull. 549 00:27:40,064 --> 00:27:44,231 显然，当你在一个小岛上时，体型确实很重要。 Size obviously does matter when you're on a small island. 550 00:27:45,459 --> 00:27:48,366 这片多水的荒野是一个合适的地方， This watery wilderness is an appropriate place 551 00:27:48,416 --> 00:27:51,585 让我结束我对特洛特尼什未驯服之地 for me to end my Grand Tour of the untamed 552 00:27:51,635 --> 00:27:55,568 和传奇人物的伟大之旅， places and legendary characters of Trotternish, 553 00:27:55,618 --> 00:27:58,451 斯凯岛，巨人与仙女的土地。 Skye's land of giants and fairies. 554 00:28:01,753 --> 00:28:03,868 请加入我的下一次伟大之旅， Join me on my next Grand Tour 555 00:28:03,918 --> 00:28:08,526 我们将从弗洛特到桑迪，环游霍克尼。 which hops around Hockney from Flotter to Sandy.