﻿1
00:00:04,634 --> 00:00:08,301
- 这里是设得兰群岛
- These are the Shetland Islands.

2
00:00:09,298 --> 00:00:12,507
位于苏格兰大陆以北一百多英里处
Lying over 100 miles North of mainland Scotland,

3
00:00:12,557 --> 00:00:15,489
这个群岛由数十个独立岛屿
this archipelago is made up of dozens of separate

4
00:00:15,539 --> 00:00:17,289
和礁岛组成
islands and skerries.

5
00:00:18,216 --> 00:00:21,467
只有16座岛屿有人居住 对于岛民而言
Only 16 are inhabited and for those who live on them,

6
00:00:21,517 --> 00:00:23,517
生活可能充满挑战
life can be challenging.

7
00:00:25,094 --> 00:00:27,602
这些地方由自然力量塑造
These are places shaped by the elements.

8
00:00:27,652 --> 00:00:29,944
有着贫困社区的历史
With a history of poor communities,

9
00:00:29,994 --> 00:00:32,324
与崎岖的环境密不可分
it's bound up with a rugged environment

10
00:00:32,374 --> 00:00:35,780
并与永不停歇的大海紧密相连
and linked to the ever restless sea.

11
00:00:39,972 --> 00:00:42,564
在本系列中 我将进行跳岛之旅
In this series, I'm on an island hopping tour

12
00:00:42,614 --> 00:00:44,677
探索北方群岛
that explores the Northern Isles,

13
00:00:44,727 --> 00:00:48,321
航向赫布里底群岛
sails to the Hebrides and discovers the secrets

14
00:00:48,371 --> 00:00:51,788
并揭开欧洲某些最偏远地区的秘密
of some of the remotest places in Europe.

15
00:00:53,907 --> 00:00:55,936
没有人真正确定
No one is really sure about the total

16
00:00:55,986 --> 00:00:58,243
散布在苏格兰美丽海岸沿线
number of islands that casted around Scotland's

17
00:00:58,293 --> 00:01:00,942
岛屿的总数 但就我的"集岛"目标而言
beautiful coast, but for my island bagging

18
00:01:00,992 --> 00:01:03,409
数量远超过250座
purposes, it's well over 250.

19
00:01:05,270 --> 00:01:08,562
目前我已经去过80多座 所以还有相当多
So far I've been to over 80 of them, so there's quite a lot

20
00:01:08,612 --> 00:01:09,612
岛屿有待探索
still to go.

21
00:01:10,554 --> 00:01:12,644
这次盛大之旅 我将横跨
For this grand tour, I'm traveling across

22
00:01:12,694 --> 00:01:16,281
设得兰群岛 从西到东
the Shetland Islands from West to East.

23
00:01:29,830 --> 00:01:31,822
我的旅程始于帕帕斯特尔岛
My journey starts on Papa Stour

24
00:01:31,872 --> 00:01:34,564
位于设得兰主岛以西
to the West of the Shetland mainland.

25
00:01:34,614 --> 00:01:36,895
向东跳至沃尔赛岛 最终抵达
Hops East to Whalsay and ends on a

26
00:01:36,945 --> 00:01:41,112
一个偏远的小岛群 被称为外斯凯里斯
tiny, remote groups of islands known as Out Skerries.

27
00:01:44,050 --> 00:01:46,521
几个世纪以来 维京人闻名于世地
For centuries the vikings famously held

28
00:01:46,571 --> 00:01:50,500
掌控着设得兰 他们的遗产无处不在
sway over Shetland and their legacy is everywhere.

29
00:01:50,550 --> 00:01:52,884
尤其体现在他们为定居岛屿
Especially in the names they gave the islands

30
00:01:52,934 --> 00:01:54,722
所起的名字上
where they settled.

31
00:01:54,772 --> 00:01:57,203
我们的第一个目的地 帕帕斯特尔岛
Our first destination, Papa Stour lies

32
00:01:57,253 --> 00:01:59,699
就在我们前方那边
just ahead of us over there.

33
00:01:59,749 --> 00:02:01,742
就像设得兰几乎所有的岛屿一样
And like nearly all the islands in Shetland,

34
00:02:01,792 --> 00:02:04,348
它有一个十足的维京名字
it has a thoroughly viking name,

35
00:02:04,398 --> 00:02:07,209
根据我自己有些模糊的挪威语知识
and from my own rather hazy knowledge of Norwegian,

36
00:02:07,259 --> 00:02:11,187
我知道"Stour"意为大 而"Papa"是牧师
I know that Stour means big and Papa is priest.

37
00:02:11,237 --> 00:02:15,348
所以帕帕斯特尔就是牧师的大岛
So Papa Stour is the big island of the priest.

38
00:02:19,077 --> 00:02:21,229
异教徒维京人将该岛命名为
The fact that the Pagan vikings named the island

39
00:02:21,279 --> 00:02:24,206
帕帕斯特尔这一事实表明 基督教圣徒
Papa Stour suggests that Christian holy men

40
00:02:24,256 --> 00:02:26,173
在他们之前就已在此
were there before them.

41
00:02:27,435 --> 00:02:29,668
我怀疑僧侣们没有逗留太久
I doubt that the monks hung around for long,

42
00:02:29,718 --> 00:02:32,809
但维京人确实留下了深刻印象
but the vikings certainly made an impression.

43
00:02:32,859 --> 00:02:35,166
他们的影响交织在
Their influence is woven into the landscape

44
00:02:35,216 --> 00:02:38,089
帕帕斯特尔的地景和民间传说中
and folklore of Papa Stour.

45
00:02:38,139 --> 00:02:40,846
那是少女岩 得名于
That is the Maiden Stack, so called because

46
00:02:40,896 --> 00:02:44,729
很久以前 一位邪恶的维京领主囚禁了他的女儿
long ago an evil viking lord imprisoned his daughter

47
00:02:44,779 --> 00:02:48,008
在他建于山顶的塔楼中
in a tower that he built on the summit

48
00:02:48,058 --> 00:02:50,569
以守护她宝贵的贞洁
to protect her valuable virginity.

49
00:02:50,619 --> 00:02:53,748
就像莴苣姑娘的故事一样 她的爱人出现
Now just an in the Rapunzel story, her lover turned up

50
00:02:53,798 --> 00:02:56,048
并带走了这位少女
and spirited the lass away.

51
00:02:59,191 --> 00:03:02,105
海岸线是这座崎岖小岛
The coastline is a striking feature of this rugged

52
00:03:02,155 --> 00:03:05,187
的显著特征 其出乎意料的肥沃
little island, and its surprisingly fertile

53
00:03:05,237 --> 00:03:09,404
土壤在八世纪吸引了维京定居者
soils attracted viking settles in the eighth century.

54
00:03:10,555 --> 00:03:13,246
在他们的统治下 帕帕斯特尔成为
Under their rule, Papa Stour became an important

55
00:03:13,296 --> 00:03:15,625
一个重要前哨 归属于一位后来成为
outpost for a man who would link to become

56
00:03:15,675 --> 00:03:16,925
挪威国王的人
King of Norway.

57
00:03:18,838 --> 00:03:20,948
在哈康四世国王统治
Before King Haakon the fourth ruled over

58
00:03:20,998 --> 00:03:23,998
他的维京帝国之前 他在这里拥有土地
his viking empire, he had land here.

59
00:03:25,099 --> 00:03:26,948
这座部分重建的建筑
Now this partially reconstructed building

60
00:03:26,998 --> 00:03:30,707
曾属于哈康 它被称为斯托弗
once belonged to Haakon and it's called the Stouffer,

61
00:03:30,757 --> 00:03:34,585
这是维京人对庄园大厅的称呼
the name the vikings gave to the great hall of the estate.

62
00:03:34,635 --> 00:03:36,948
所有重要决策都曾
And this is where all the important decisions

63
00:03:36,998 --> 00:03:38,669
在此进行
would have taken place.

64
00:03:38,719 --> 00:03:42,148
值得注意的是 它实际上由木材建造
Now significantly, it's actually made of timber.

65
00:03:42,198 --> 00:03:44,660
巨大的原木全部来自挪威
Great logs that have come all the way from Norway.

66
00:03:44,710 --> 00:03:47,049
你可以想象 在像帕帕斯特尔这样
Now you can imagine that on a treeless island

67
00:03:47,099 --> 00:03:51,245
没有树木的岛屿上 这是一座罕见的高规格建筑
like Papa Stour, this was a rare, high status building.

68
00:03:51,295 --> 00:03:55,462
配得上国王 斯托弗旨在令人惊叹
Fit for a king, The Stouffer was designed to impress.

69
00:03:59,679 --> 00:04:02,073
斯托弗生动展示了
The Stouffer vividly demonstrates the importance

70
00:04:02,123 --> 00:04:05,106
帕帕斯特尔对维京人的重要性 但当
of Papa Stour to the vikings, but when

71
00:04:05,156 --> 00:04:08,210
 Norse统治在15世纪结束时
Norse rule ended in the 15th century,

72
00:04:08,260 --> 00:04:12,343
岛上人口的命运起伏不定
the fortunes of the island population fluctuated.

73
00:04:13,199 --> 00:04:15,949
传统上 这里的人们将农耕
Traditionally, these were people who combined crafting

74
00:04:15,999 --> 00:04:19,508
与渔业结合 似乎人人都有船
with fishing, everyone it seems had a boat.

75
00:04:19,558 --> 00:04:21,641
并且训练很早就开始
And training began early.

76
00:04:22,902 --> 00:04:23,849
你好 乔治
Hi George.

77
00:04:23,899 --> 00:04:26,029
为了进一步了解
To find out more about the ups and downs of life

78
00:04:26,079 --> 00:04:29,744
帕帕斯特尔生活的起伏 我来见乔治·彼得森
on Papa Stour, I've come to meet George Peterson.

79
00:04:29,794 --> 00:04:32,787
岛上最年长的居民 他的农场
The islands most senior resident, whose craft is

80
00:04:32,837 --> 00:04:36,545
正迸发出初春的气息
bursting with the first signs of Spring.

81
00:04:36,595 --> 00:04:40,388
- 我们称此为"沃亚" 意为春天
- We call this the Voar, which means the Springtime.

82
00:04:40,438 --> 00:04:41,424
- 对的
- Right.

83
00:04:41,474 --> 00:04:43,230
- 但我认为这是个斯堪的纳维亚词汇
- But what I think is a Scandinavian word.

84
00:04:43,280 --> 00:04:44,232
- 是的
- It is.

85
00:04:44,282 --> 00:04:45,289
- 是的
- Yeah.

86
00:04:45,339 --> 00:04:46,729
- 我记得我的挪威语 那是挪威语的"春天"
- I remember my Norwegian, that's Norwegian for Spring.

87
00:04:46,779 --> 00:04:47,732
- 春天 对的
- Spring, yes.

88
00:04:47,782 --> 00:04:50,452
- 乔治 我知道你与这个岛的联系
- I know George, you've got connections to this island

89
00:04:50,502 --> 00:04:53,112
可以追溯到很多很多年前
that go back years and years.

90
00:04:53,162 --> 00:04:55,972
- 我母亲是本地人
- Well my mother was a proper wife.

91
00:04:56,022 --> 00:04:58,246
我父亲来自海峡对面的萨卢斯
My father was from Salus across the soon

92
00:04:58,296 --> 00:05:02,463
我相信他们在这里已经生活了很多很多代
and they were here for many, many generations I'm sure.

93
00:05:04,607 --> 00:05:08,146
乔治记得 在他成长的上世纪
George remembers a tight knit crafting

94
00:00:08,146 --> 00:05:11,056
30和40年代 帕帕斯特尔有一个紧密的
community on Papa Stour when he was growing

95
00:05:11,106 --> 00:05:13,273
农耕社区
up in the 1930's and 40's.

96
00:05:14,283 --> 00:05:18,752
那里有邮局、学校和教堂
There was a post office, a school and a church.

97
00:05:18,802 --> 00:05:21,333
这是一个田园诗般的成长之岛
It was an idyllic island to be brought up on,

98
00:05:21,383 --> 00:05:23,856
但遗憾的是 自那些人口远多于现在
but sadly things have changed dramatically since

99
00:05:23,906 --> 00:05:26,831
的太平岁月以来 情况发生了巨大变化
those Halcyon days when the population was much

100
00:05:26,881 --> 00:05:28,798
 greater than it is now.

101
00:05:30,044 --> 00:05:31,794
- 我记得超过90人
- I remember over 90.

102
00:05:33,004 --> 00:05:35,173
- 超过90人住在这里
- Over 90 folks stayed here.

103
00:05:35,223 --> 00:05:36,752
- 在这个岛上 是的
- In this island yes.

104
00:05:36,802 --> 00:05:39,573
你觉得现在人口有多少？
What's the population now would you say?

105
00:05:39,623 --> 00:05:42,032
- 我想是8或10人 我
- I think eight or 10 I'm

106
00:05:42,082 --> 00:05:43,456
几乎不敢想
nearly afraid to think.

107
00:05:43,506 --> 00:05:44,714
8或10人？
Eight or 10?

108
00:05:44,764 --> 00:05:46,234
这真的是在苦苦支撑 不是吗？
That's really clinging on isn't it?

109
00:05:46,284 --> 00:05:47,309
- 是的 是的 是的
- Yes yes yes.

110
00:05:47,359 --> 00:05:49,493
岛上有孩子吗？
Are there any children on the island?

111
00:05:49,543 --> 00:05:51,056
- 没有
- No.

112
00:05:51,106 --> 00:05:52,053
没有
No.

113
00:05:52,103 --> 00:05:53,471
一个也没有
Not no.

114
00:05:57,084 --> 00:06:00,189
乔治将衰退归因于经济
George puts the decline down to economics.

115
00:06:00,239 --> 00:06:01,792
传统农耕的收入
The income from a traditional craft

116
00:06:01,842 --> 00:06:04,234
永远不可能
is never likely to be enough

117
00:06:04,284 --> 00:06:08,670
满足现代生活方式的期望
to satisfy the expectations of a modern lifestyle.

118
00:06:08,720 --> 00:06:10,512
- 你看农耕
- See the craft

119
00:06:10,562 --> 00:06:13,214
真的不足以维持生计
is really wasn't enough to live on.

120
00:06:13,264 --> 00:06:14,293
- 勉强糊口
- Right of subsistence.

121
00:06:14,343 --> 00:06:16,496
- 勉强糊口 是的 是的
- Of subsistence yes yes.

122
00:06:16,546 --> 00:06:19,213
但是 当时家庭规模很大
But, there were big families and

123
00:06:20,066 --> 00:06:22,672
许多人离开了 岛上只是有太多
many of them left there were just too many

124
00:06:22,722 --> 00:06:23,712
人了
people in the island.

125
00:06:23,762 --> 00:06:24,874
- 人太多了？
- There were too many people?

126
00:06:24,924 --> 00:06:26,032
90人太多了
90 was too much.

127
00:06:26,082 --> 00:06:27,493
- 是的
- Yes.

128
00:06:27,543 --> 00:06:29,173
但真正的沉重打击
But the real hammer blow came

129
00:06:29,223 --> 00:06:31,392
是学校关闭的时候
when the school closed.

130
00:06:31,442 --> 00:06:33,674
- 我想是1962或63年
- I think 1962 or '63,

131
00:06:33,724 --> 00:06:35,534
当时教育体系要求
when the educational system

132
00:06:35,584 --> 00:06:38,874
12岁的孩子必须离开
demanded that children of 12 years of age had to leave

133
00:06:38,924 --> 00:06:41,341
去上中学
and go to a secondary school.

134
00:06:42,706 --> 00:06:44,933
他们必须这样做 而
And they were obliged to do that and

135
00:06:44,983 --> 00:06:46,900
很少有人再回来
well few ever get back.

136
00:06:48,364 --> 00:06:49,781
士气骤降
Morale plummeted.

137
00:06:51,123 --> 00:06:53,384
再也没有真正恢复
Never quite recovered.

138
00:06:53,434 --> 00:06:55,464
- 但人口减少 社区如今
- But it's sad though that the population

139
00:06:55,514 --> 00:06:57,144
只是在苦苦支撑 这很令人悲伤
has declined and the community is just

140
00:06:57,194 --> 00:06:58,142
clinging on now.

141
00:06:58,192 --> 00:07:00,584
- 是的 哦 这非常令人难过
- Yes, oh there's very sad.

142
00:07:00,634 --> 00:07:02,402
但这是不可避免的
But it's inevitable.

143
00:07:02,452 --> 00:07:04,584
我的意思是你不能责怪任何人
I mean you can't blame anybody.

144
00:07:09,089 --> 00:07:11,742
尽管有衰退的悲伤故事
Despite the sad story of decline,

145
00:07:11,792 --> 00:07:14,698
乔治为自己是本地人而自豪
George is proud to be a proper man,

146
00:07:14,748 --> 00:07:17,406
并在保持古老传统
and has been instrumental in keeping the old

147
00:07:17,456 --> 00:07:18,873
 alive.
traditions alive.

148
00:07:20,031 --> 00:07:21,864
我来见其中一项仪式的
I've come to meet the custodians

149
00:07:21,914 --> 00:07:24,222
守护者们
of one such ritual.

150
00:07:24,272 --> 00:07:25,767
一种古老的舞蹈传统
An ancient dancing tradition

151
00:07:25,817 --> 00:07:27,900
拥有其独特的华丽舞步
with its own fancy moves.

152
00:07:33,312 --> 00:07:36,908
这是著名的帕帕斯特尔剑舞
This is the famous Papa Stour sword dance.

153
00:07:36,958 --> 00:07:38,622
鉴赏家认为它是
It's considered by connoisseurs

154
00:07:38,672 --> 00:07:41,582
该类型的经典之作
to be a classic of the genre.

155
00:07:41,632 --> 00:07:43,687
并且相当独特
And quite unique.

156
00:07:43,737 --> 00:07:45,422
它具有深刻的象征意义
It's deeply symbolic,

157
00:07:45,472 --> 00:07:47,586
代表爱神维纳斯
representing the victory of Venus,

158
00:07:47,636 --> 00:07:49,304
 the Goddess of Love,

159
00:07:49,354 --> 00:07:51,521
战胜战神玛尔斯
over Mars, the God of War.

160
00:07:55,497 --> 00:07:58,664
我得说 这和我预想的不太一样
I have to say, it's not quite what I expected.

161
00:07:58,714 --> 00:08:00,327
更像温和的舞蹈
More like modest dancing

162
00:08:00,377 --> 00:08:03,210
而非剑拔弩张的剑舞
than a saber rattling sword dance.

163
00:08:04,474 --> 00:08:05,439
- 放松
- Loose.

164
00:08:05,489 --> 00:08:07,862
如今 它由邻近马罗岛的
Today, it's kept alive by enthusiasts

165
00:08:07,912 --> 00:08:10,260
爱好者们传承着
on the neighboring island of Muckle Roe.

166
00:08:10,310 --> 00:08:12,664
这里也有家族联系
There's a family connection here too.

167
00:08:12,714 --> 00:08:15,202
领舞的是丹尼·彼得森
Leading the dancers is Danny Peterson,

168
00:08:15,252 --> 00:08:17,181
他的祖父乔治·彼得森
whose grandfather George Peterson

169
00:08:17,231 --> 00:08:20,268
拯救了这种舞蹈免于失传
saved the dance from extinction.

170
00:08:20,318 --> 00:08:22,046
- 他负责清理了
- He's been responsible for cleaning up

171
00:08:22,096 --> 00:08:24,222
 quite a number of dancers.
相当多的舞者

172
00:08:24,272 --> 00:08:26,862
在设得兰主岛 看 我们有一个
In mainland Shetland and look we've got

173
00:08:26,912 --> 00:08:28,967
很好的大池子可供挑选 当涉及到
a nice big pool to pick from when it

174
00:08:29,017 --> 00:08:29,982
舞者时
comes to the dancers,

175
00:08:30,032 --> 00:08:30,984
那是我的祖先
that's my ancestors.

176
00:08:31,034 --> 00:08:32,366
所以是你的祖父拯救了
So your grandfather rescued

177
00:08:32,416 --> 00:08:33,631
这种舞蹈 真的
the dance really.

178
00:08:33,681 --> 00:08:34,952
- 是的 绝对是的 是的 如果不是他
- Yes absolutely, yep yeah I would've been

179
00:08:35,002 --> 00:08:37,151
它早就失传了
long gone if it hadn't been for him so.

180
00:08:37,201 --> 00:08:38,154
- 太了不起了 太了不起了
- Amazing amazing.

181
00:08:38,204 --> 00:08:38,987
它也很受欢迎
It's such a hit as well.

182
00:08:39,037 --> 00:08:39,954
- 绝对是的 没错 绝对
- Absolutely yeah, absolutely.

183
00:08:40,004 --> 00:08:41,314
你们带着它巡演过吗？
Did you tour with it?

184
00:08:41,364 --> 00:08:43,031
- 我们经常受邀
- We're often to invite.

185
00:08:43,081 --> 00:08:44,331
我们出去过
We've been away

186
00:08:45,460 --> 00:08:47,010
过去几年里有好几次
several times in the last couple years,

187
00:08:47,060 --> 00:08:49,010
2010年我们去过奥伯丁
we've been to Auberdine 2010,

188
00:08:49,060 --> 00:08:51,730
过去也去过挪威和丹麦
we've had it crossing Norway and Denmark in the past.

189
00:08:51,780 --> 00:08:54,210
我们其实希望明年九月去伦敦
We're actually hoping to go to London next September.

190
00:08:54,260 --> 00:08:55,932
也是去巡演 所以
And for a tour as well so

191
00:08:55,982 --> 00:08:58,231
背景里的所有这些家伙
all these guys in the background

192
00:08:58,281 --> 00:09:00,951
已经试镜并获得了去伦敦的名额
have auditioned and found their spot to London so.

193
00:09:01,001 --> 00:09:02,092
我们看看他们表现如何
We'll see how they go.

194
00:09:02,142 --> 00:09:03,152
- 好的 好的
- All right all right.

195
00:09:03,202 --> 00:09:04,752
那你觉得我能试试吗？
So do you think I'll be able to have a shot?

196
00:09:04,802 --> 00:09:05,894
- 当然可以 保罗 是的
- Absolutely Paul yes,

197
00:09:05,944 --> 00:09:07,325
我们非常高兴你能加入
we'd be more than delighted to have you in.

198
00:09:07,375 --> 00:09:10,370
- 好吧 我是扁平足
- All right, I've got two flat feet.

199
00:09:10,420 --> 00:09:11,692
我没有节奏感
I've no sense of rhythm.

200
00:09:11,742 --> 00:09:13,810
- 完全没问题 完全没问题
- No problem at all, no problem at all.

201
00:09:13,860 --> 00:09:15,292
不 我们有很多
- No we've got lots of

202
00:09:15,342 --> 00:09:17,052
健壮的男士会帮助你的 我确信
strapping gents that'll help you I'm sure.

203
00:09:17,102 --> 00:09:18,551
- 只管拖着我转 再用剑戳我一下就行
- Just drag me around and give me a prod with a sword.

204
00:09:18,601 --> 00:09:19,751
- 对的 对的
- That's right that's right.

205
00:09:25,204 --> 00:09:27,245
- 戴上彩色肩带
- Donning a colored sash,

206
00:09:27,295 --> 00:09:30,214
我握紧剑加入其中
I grip my sword and join in.

207
00:09:30,264 --> 00:09:32,754
几乎立刻 我发现它并不像
Almost immediately, I discover that it's not as

208
00:09:32,804 --> 00:09:34,221
看起来那么容易
easy as it looks.

209
00:09:37,140 --> 00:09:39,061
这就像玩扭扭乐游戏
It's like playing Twister

210
00:09:39,111 --> 00:09:41,241
但用的是危险的武器
but with dangerous weapons

211
00:09:41,291 --> 00:09:43,223
还有凯尔特乐队的伴奏
and a Katie band backing.

212
00:09:43,273 --> 00:09:45,606
一点也不像温和的舞蹈
Nothing like modest dancing.

213
00:09:47,113 --> 00:09:48,285
我所能希望的
All I can hope for

214
00:09:48,335 --> 00:09:50,466
就是避免与任何尖锐
is to avoid an unpleasant encounter

215
00:09:50,516 --> 00:09:53,581
的东西发生不愉快的接触
with anything sharp and pointy.

216
00:09:59,311 --> 00:10:00,263
哇！
Whoa!

217
00:10:01,865 --> 00:10:03,165
一颗新星诞生了
A star is born.

218
00:10:06,815 --> 00:10:09,003
不想再进一步碰运气了
Not wishing to push my luck any further,

219
00:10:09,053 --> 00:10:12,685
我返回帕帕斯特尔绿色的田野
I return to the green fields of Papa Stour,

220
00:10:12,735 --> 00:10:15,677
那里正回响着不同的曲调
which are resounding to a different tune.

221
00:10:15,727 --> 00:10:17,227
现在是产羔期
It's lambing time.

222
00:10:18,511 --> 00:10:21,522
简·帕基在帕帕斯特尔生活和务农
Jane Puckey has lived and crafted on Papa Stour

223
00:10:21,572 --> 00:10:23,485
已有多年
for many years.

224
00:10:23,535 --> 00:10:25,302
今天早上 她在喂养两只最近
This morning, she's feeding two recently

225
00:10:25,352 --> 00:10:27,852
被遗弃的羔羊 雅各布和艾娜
offered lambs, Jacob and Eina.

226
00:10:29,551 --> 00:10:31,703
这是一年中很棒的时候 春天不是吗？
It's a great time of year though isn't it spring?

227
00:10:31,753 --> 00:10:34,845
你能看到这些新生命 太非凡了
You can see this new life, it's extraordinary.

228
00:10:34,895 --> 00:10:36,365
我打赌你永远不会厌倦
I bet you never get tired of it.

229
00:10:36,415 --> 00:10:37,965
从不
Never.

230
00:10:38,015 --> 00:10:39,485
这些是设得兰羔羊吗？
And these are Shetland lambs?

231
00:10:39,535 --> 00:10:41,025
是的 纯种设得兰
Yes pure Shetland.

232
00:10:41,075 --> 00:10:43,420
- 是岛上的本土羊 不是吗？
- Indigenous sheep to the islands aren't they?

233
00:10:43,470 --> 00:10:44,642
- 是的 设得兰的
- Yes, to Shetland.

234
00:10:44,692 --> 00:10:46,103
- 了解这个品种的背景吗？
- Know much about the background of the breed?

235
00:10:46,153 --> 00:10:47,943
- 嗯 我听说过
- Um, well I had heard

236
00:10:47,993 --> 00:10:49,901
它们来自
they'd come down from

237
00:10:49,951 --> 00:10:50,941
冰岛
Iceland.

238
00:10:50,991 --> 00:10:52,103
嗯
Uh huh.

239
00:10:52,153 --> 00:10:53,101
- 是的
- Yes.

240
00:10:53,151 --> 00:10:54,103
所以它们被放养在这里
So that's where they're herd here

241
00:10:54,153 --> 00:10:55,101
它们过去常被淘汰
they used to be culled.

242
00:10:55,151 --> 00:10:56,285
- 它们是山地羊
- They are hill sheep.

243
00:10:56,335 --> 00:10:58,322
在另一段人生里 简曾是一名教师
In another lifetime, Jane was a teacher

244
00:10:58,372 --> 00:11:01,872
然后在格洛斯特郡做放射技师
and then a radiographer in Gloucestershire

245
00:11:02,793 --> 00:11:06,183
直到她发现了帕帕斯特尔的魅力
until she discovered the charms of Papa Stour.

246
00:11:06,233 --> 00:11:08,941
但她对这种美好生活并不感情用事
But she's unsentimental about the good life.

247
00:11:08,991 --> 00:11:10,402
我不仅
Not only do

248
00:11:10,452 --> 00:11:12,058
从事畜牧
I do loving,

249
00:11:12,108 --> 00:11:14,102
还会处理羊的一切事务
but I will do everything else with sheep

250
00:11:14,152 --> 00:11:16,486
包括屠宰和分割
including slaughtering and butchering.

251
00:11:16,536 --> 00:11:18,559
嗯 你对此感觉如何？
Uh huh, how do you feel about that?

252
00:11:18,609 --> 00:11:20,620
因为你与它们生活得很近
'Cause you're living very close to them and

253
00:11:20,670 --> 00:11:22,301
那是一个非常亲密的场景
that's a very intimate scene there.

254
00:11:22,351 --> 00:11:24,802
- 这都是过程的一部分 这都是
- It's all part of the course, it's all

255
00:11:24,852 --> 00:11:27,522
你知道 这就是你养它们的原因
you know that's why you have them.

256
00:11:27,572 --> 00:11:29,383
- 本着这种务实的精神
- On that practical note,

257
00:11:29,433 --> 00:11:31,821
我加入简和她的助手芬恩
I join Jane and her assistant Finn

258
00:11:31,871 --> 00:11:36,205
在一只临产母羊的关键部位忙碌
at the business end of a heavily pregnant ewe.

259
00:11:36,255 --> 00:11:37,261
你能感觉到里面的羔羊
You can feel the lamb in there.

260
00:11:37,311 --> 00:11:38,701
哦 天啊 我的手
Oh my goodness my hand is

261
00:11:38,751 --> 00:11:39,805
在头上面
over the head.

262
00:11:39,855 --> 00:11:40,802
- 真的吗？
- Is it really?

263
00:11:40,852 --> 00:11:41,805
是的
Yes.

264
00:11:41,855 --> 00:11:42,941
这就像在过程中
It's like call them midway

265
00:11:42,991 --> 00:11:43,942
呼叫它们 不是吗？
through this isn't it?

266
00:11:43,992 --> 00:11:44,982
一旦你把头和
And once you've got the head and the

267
00:11:45,032 --> 00:11:46,779
肩膀弄出来 剩下的部分会
shoulders out, the rest of it will

268
00:11:46,829 --> 00:11:48,801
靠重力滑出来
fall out by gravity.

269
00:11:48,851 --> 00:11:50,205
看那个
Look at that.

270
00:11:50,255 --> 00:11:52,005
有一条羔羊的腿
There's a lamb's leg.

271
00:11:54,313 --> 00:11:55,783
就是这样
That's it.

272
00:11:55,833 --> 00:11:56,781
- 小羔羊
- Little lamb.

273
00:11:56,831 --> 00:11:58,748
整个头都在那里
The whole head's there.

274
00:12:05,060 --> 00:12:06,143
看那个
Look at that.

275
00:12:08,734 --> 00:12:09,817
看那个
Look at that.

276
00:12:12,132 --> 00:12:12,965
哇
Wow.

277
00:12:14,548 --> 00:12:17,463
看啊 它在睁开眼睛
Look at that he's opening his eyes.

278
00:12:17,513 --> 00:12:19,778
第一次见到光
Seeing light for the first time.

279
00:12:19,828 --> 00:12:20,818
- 是的 你正直视着镜头
- Yeah you're looking straight up into the camera.

280
00:12:20,868 --> 00:12:21,951
看那个
Look at that.

281
00:12:23,252 --> 00:12:25,101
这是件压力很大的事吗？
Is it quite a stressful business?

282
00:12:25,151 --> 00:12:26,322
- 对谁来说？
- Who for?

283
00:12:26,372 --> 00:12:28,018
对你来说？
For you?

284
00:12:28,068 --> 00:12:29,959
因为这肯定很耗费精力
'Cause it must be quite taxing

285
00:12:30,009 --> 00:12:31,378
因为你要负责确保
because you're responsible for making sure

286
00:12:31,428 --> 00:12:33,479
一切顺利
that it goes well.

287
00:12:33,529 --> 00:12:36,898
- 是的你说得对 不 我不会说压力大 但
- Yes you're right, no I wouldn't say it was stressful but

288
00:12:36,948 --> 00:12:38,658
显然在我脑海深处
obviously in the back of my mind

289
00:12:38,708 --> 00:12:40,439
或者更确切地说在我们脑海的最前沿
we're really right at the forefront of our mind

290
00:12:40,489 --> 00:12:41,322
我想要
I want to

291
00:12:42,249 --> 00:12:44,839
能够接生出一只活的羔羊
be able to deliver a live lamb.

292
00:12:44,889 --> 00:12:46,973
而且 如果你没有成功 那会很令人失望
And, it is a disappointment if you don't

293
00:12:47,023 --> 00:12:48,941
但然后责怪自己也没用
but then it's no good blaming yourself.

294
00:12:48,991 --> 00:12:51,698
有赢有输
You win some you lose some.

295
00:12:51,748 --> 00:12:53,536
- 希望你大多数时候能赢
- Hopefully you win most of the time.

296
00:12:53,586 --> 00:12:55,226
- 我们确实如此
- We do actually.

297
00:12:55,276 --> 00:12:59,581
如果接生一只大羔羊还不够的话
If delivering one large lamb weren't enough,

298
00:12:59,631 --> 00:13:03,053
简发现还有一只在路上
Jane discovers there's another on the way.

299
00:13:03,103 --> 00:13:04,020
是双胞胎
It's twins.

300
00:13:06,269 --> 00:13:07,102
哇
Wow.

301
00:13:10,068 --> 00:13:12,068
又是个大家伙
There's another whopper.

302
00:13:12,931 --> 00:13:15,261
好了 去见妈妈吧
Right go see mommy.

303
00:13:15,311 --> 00:13:17,180
这是多么美妙的景象啊 不是吗？
It's such a wonderful sight though isn't it?

304
00:13:17,230 --> 00:13:18,178
确实也是
It is as well.

305
00:13:18,228 --> 00:13:19,222
这是新生
It's renewal,

306
00:13:19,272 --> 00:13:20,241
年复一年地进行
goes on every year.

307
00:13:20,291 --> 00:13:21,234
- 绝对是的
- Absolutely.

308
00:13:21,284 --> 00:13:22,498
年复一年
Year by year,

309
00:13:22,548 --> 00:13:26,482
每年这个时候在全国各地
all over the country this time of year.

310
00:13:26,532 --> 00:13:28,258
- 目睹了新生命降临世间
- Having witnessed the cheering sight

311
00:13:28,308 --> 00:13:30,861
这令人振奋的景象后
of new life coming into the world,

312
00:13:30,911 --> 00:13:33,522
是时候离开帕帕斯特尔了
it's time to leave Papa Stour,

313
00:13:33,572 --> 00:13:35,399
它的羔羊 维京遗产
its lambs, viking heritage,

314
00:13:35,449 --> 00:13:37,449
和奇怪的舞步
and strange dance moves.

315
00:13:40,531 --> 00:13:42,162
我漫长旅程的下一站
The next destination on my odyssey

316
00:13:42,212 --> 00:13:43,879
是沃尔赛岛
is Whalsay.

317
00:13:43,929 --> 00:13:45,554
在北方语言中
Which in the language of the north

318
00:13:45,604 --> 00:13:47,021
意为鲸鱼之岛
means whale isle.

319
00:13:49,311 --> 00:13:50,898
如今要去沃尔赛岛
To get to Whalsay these days

320
00:13:50,948 --> 00:13:53,202
非常简单直接
is pretty straightforward.

321
00:13:53,252 --> 00:13:55,020
每天有几班渡轮
There are several ferries a day.

322
00:13:55,070 --> 00:13:58,197
但在过去 没有足够大的码头
But in the past, there was no pier big enough

323
00:13:58,247 --> 00:14:00,997
停靠来自勒威克的蒸汽船
to take the steamer from Lerwick.

324
00:14:02,931 --> 00:14:04,998
那时 乘客不得不使用
In those days, passengers had to disembark

325
00:14:05,048 --> 00:14:07,101
称为摆渡船的小船
using small craft

326
00:14:07,151 --> 00:14:09,341
 called flit boats.
上岸

327
00:14:09,391 --> 00:14:11,615
一些更重要的乘客
Some more important passengers

328
00:14:11,665 --> 00:14:13,915
甚至被抬上岸
were even carried to shore.

329
00:14:15,231 --> 00:14:16,738
相当令人失望的是
Rather disappointingly,

330
00:14:16,788 --> 00:14:18,519
这里似乎没有人
there doesn't appear to be anyone here

331
00:14:18,569 --> 00:14:20,152
来抬我上岸
to carry me ashore.

332
00:14:21,134 --> 00:14:22,738
所以我用这个想法安慰自己
So I comfort myself with the thought

333
00:14:22,788 --> 00:14:24,941
在这艘现代渡轮上
that on this modern ferry,

334
00:14:24,991 --> 00:14:28,241
反正我也不会弄湿脚
I wouldn't have got my feet wet anyway.

335
00:14:29,369 --> 00:14:30,781
一踏上干燥的陆地
Once on dry land,

336
00:14:30,831 --> 00:14:32,098
首先打动我的
the first thing that strikes me,

337
00:14:32,148 --> 00:14:34,481
是沃尔赛岛是多么繁忙
is just how busy Whalsay is.

338
00:14:35,949 --> 00:14:37,341
与帕帕斯特尔不同
Unlike Papa Stour,

339
00:14:37,391 --> 00:14:40,861
沃尔赛岛有不断增长的人口 超过1000人
Whalsay has a growing population of over 1,000.

340
00:14:40,911 --> 00:14:43,362
这里几乎每个人都以某种方式依赖
And nearly everyone here depends in some way

341
00:14:43,412 --> 00:14:45,579
海洋及其财富
on the sea and its riches.

342
00:14:46,830 --> 00:14:49,399
岛屿生活总是充满不确定性
Island life is always precarious.

343
00:14:49,449 --> 00:14:51,159
尤其是在过去 当
Especially in the past when

344
00:14:51,209 --> 00:14:54,461
生活的方方面面都由地主控制时
every aspect of it was controlled by the laird

345
00:14:54,511 --> 00:14:56,183
他住在那座大房子里
who lived in the big house

346
00:14:56,233 --> 00:14:59,400
在那里 这附近被称为哈尔庄园
up there, known hereabouts as the Har.

347
00:15:02,670 --> 00:15:05,362
哈尔庄园是布鲁斯家族的家
The Har was home to the Bruce family.

348
00:15:05,412 --> 00:15:07,484
他们拥有整个岛屿
They owned the entire island

349
00:15:07,534 --> 00:15:09,661
并以近乎封建的方式
and dominated the lives of everyone

350
00:15:09,711 --> 00:15:11,711
主宰着每个人的生活
in an almost feudal way.

351
00:15:12,851 --> 00:15:14,445
渔民被迫将他们的渔获
Fishermen were forced to sell their catch

352
00:15:14,495 --> 00:15:16,002
卖给产品地主
to the produce laird

353
00:15:16,052 --> 00:15:18,552
后者制定对自己有利的价格
who fixed prices in his favor.

354
00:15:19,428 --> 00:15:21,298
他还拥有唯一的商店
He also owned the only shop,

355
00:15:21,348 --> 00:15:25,261
岛民在那里被迫陷入债务奴役
where islanders were forced into debt slavery.

356
00:15:25,311 --> 00:15:27,719
未能结清未付账目
Failure to settle outstanding accounts

357
00:15:27,769 --> 00:15:30,220
为地主提供了借口
created an excuse for the laird

358
00:15:30,270 --> 00:15:33,795
将他的佃户从岛上驱逐
to evict his tenants from the island.

359
00:15:33,845 --> 00:15:35,442
情况变得如此糟糕
Things got so bad,

360
00:15:35,492 --> 00:15:38,258
以至于整个布鲁斯家族被诅咒
that a curse was put on the entire Bruce family

361
00:15:38,308 --> 00:15:40,975
因为地主的冷酷无情
for the laird's hardheartedness.

362
00:15:43,630 --> 00:15:46,301
这个诅咒是在150年前发出的
The curse was made 150 years ago

363
00:15:46,351 --> 00:15:49,762
在两兄弟违抗布鲁斯地主
after two brothers defied the Bruce laird

364
00:15:49,812 --> 00:15:53,079
并签约登上一艘克雷蒙德捕鲸船之后
and signed aboard a Kramond whaling ship.

365
00:15:53,129 --> 00:15:56,578
他们没有像奴隶一样为地主工作
Instead of working like slaves for their landlord,

366
00:15:56,628 --> 00:15:58,381
他们赚了很多钱
they made good money.

367
00:15:58,431 --> 00:16:00,540
地主勃然大怒
The laird was furious,

368
00:16:00,590 --> 00:16:02,322
他绝对拒绝
and he refused absolutely

369
00:16:02,372 --> 00:16:06,461
让这两兄弟再踏上沃尔赛岛
to let the brothers ever set foot on Whalsay again.

370
00:16:06,511 --> 00:16:08,736
这伤了他们母亲的心
And this broke their mother's heart,

371
00:16:08,786 --> 00:16:10,679
她恳求地主发发慈悲
and she pleaded with the laird to relent

372
00:16:10,729 --> 00:16:12,999
但他背弃了她
but he turned his back on her

373
00:16:13,049 --> 00:16:15,299
她转而诅咒了他
and she in turn cursed him.

374
00:16:16,169 --> 00:16:17,938
说这将成真
Saying that it will come to pass

375
00:16:17,988 --> 00:16:20,322
不会有布鲁斯家族的人住在沃尔赛岛
that no Bruce will ever live on Whalsay,

376
00:16:20,372 --> 00:16:23,079
但骄傲的宅邸将空置
but the proud mansion will stand empty

377
00:16:23,129 --> 00:16:27,681
孩子们将在庭院里自由玩耍
and that children will play freely in the grounds.

378
00:16:31,908 --> 00:16:35,616
当地人相信她的诅咒应验了
Local folk believe her curse came true.

379
00:16:35,666 --> 00:16:36,860
最后一位布鲁斯地主
The last Bruce laird

380
00:16:36,910 --> 00:16:39,327
于1944年去世 没有继承人
died without an heir in 1944.

381
00:16:41,689 --> 00:16:43,559
哈尔庄园破败了
The Har deteriorated

382
00:16:43,609 --> 00:16:46,982
但在1960年代免于毁灭
but was saved from ruin in the 1960s

383
00:16:47,032 --> 00:16:49,938
当时它被改造成岛上的学校
when it was converted into the island's school

384
00:16:49,988 --> 00:16:53,858
孩子们在庭院里自由玩耍
where children play freely in the grounds.

385
00:16:53,908 --> 00:16:55,170
布鲁斯家族对沃尔赛岛的掌控
The Bruce's grip on Whalsay

386
00:16:55,220 --> 00:16:56,803
已经结束
had come to an end.

387
00:17:02,190 --> 00:17:04,498
直言不讳和为生存而斗争
Speaking your mind and the struggle to survive

388
00:17:04,548 --> 00:17:07,522
在沃尔赛岛算是一种传统
is something of a tradition on Whalsay.

389
00:17:07,572 --> 00:17:08,738
在1930年代期间
During the 1930s,

390
00:17:08,788 --> 00:17:12,082
该岛是受共产主义启发的诗人
the island was the home to the communist inspired poet,

391
00:17:12,132 --> 00:17:15,559
休·麦克德莫特的家 他与妻子法尔达
Hugh McDermott, who lived here with his wife Falda

392
00:17:15,609 --> 00:17:16,776
和他们的儿子住在这里
and their son.

393
00:17:18,431 --> 00:17:20,578
杰奎琳·欧文带我去那所房子
Jacquelyn Irving takes me to the house

394
00:17:20,628 --> 00:17:23,298
麦克德莫特在那里度过了近十年
where McDermott spent the best part of a decade

395
00:17:23,348 --> 00:17:26,414
生活在贫困和默默无闻中
living in poverty and obscurity.

396
00:17:26,464 --> 00:17:29,615
休·麦克德莫特是这位诗人的笔名
Hugh McDermott was the pen name of the poet

397
00:17:29,665 --> 00:17:30,615
他的真名是什么？
what was his real name?

398
00:17:30,665 --> 00:17:32,498
- 克里斯托弗·诺里杜夫
- Christopher Noreaduv,

399
00:17:32,548 --> 00:17:34,204
但他在巴尔萨几乎被称作
but he was almost known in Balsa

400
00:17:34,254 --> 00:17:35,762
阿尔·格雷夫斯
as Al Graves.

401
00:17:35,812 --> 00:17:36,759
- 阿尔·格雷夫斯
- Al Graves.

402
00:17:36,809 --> 00:17:37,762
是的
Yeah.

403
00:17:37,812 --> 00:17:38,759
那是什么意思？
What's that mean?

404
00:17:38,809 --> 00:17:39,778
老的
Old.

405
00:17:39,828 --> 00:17:40,780
老坟墓
Old grave.

406
00:17:40,830 --> 00:17:41,778
老坟墓
Old graves.

407
00:17:41,828 --> 00:17:42,781
麦克德莫特并不像他看起来那么老
McDermott wasn't as old as he looked,

408
00:17:42,831 --> 00:17:46,541
但酗酒已经损害了他的健康
but alcoholism had taken its toll on his health.

409
00:17:46,591 --> 00:17:48,242
作为一个禁酒岛屿
Being a dry island,

410
00:17:48,292 --> 00:17:50,116
沃尔赛岛被认为是个好地方
Whalsay was considered a good place

411
00:17:50,166 --> 00:17:52,141
让他恢复健康
for him to recover.

412
00:17:52,191 --> 00:17:53,602
他们当时就住在这里
And this is where they stayed then.

413
00:17:53,652 --> 00:17:55,420
是的 住了九年
Yes, for nine years.

414
00:17:55,470 --> 00:17:57,644
这个地方的地址是什么？
What's the address of this place?

415
00:17:57,694 --> 00:17:58,658
舒尔敦
Schuldung.

416
00:17:58,708 --> 00:17:59,659
舒尔敦
Schuldung,

417
00:17:59,709 --> 00:18:02,141
是方言里的“南屋”吗？
is that the south home in the dialect is it?

418
00:18:02,191 --> 00:18:04,001
我想很可能是的
I think it probably is yeah.

419
00:18:04,051 --> 00:18:05,458
但它也被称为所多玛 如“所多玛屋”
But it's also known as Sodom as in house.

420
00:18:05,508 --> 00:18:06,962
拼写是Sodom
Spelled Sodom.

421
00:18:07,012 --> 00:18:10,141
我想这会让一些人觉得好笑
Much to the mirth of some people I imagine.

422
00:18:10,191 --> 00:18:11,810
是的
Yeah.

423
00:18:11,860 --> 00:18:15,216
当麦克德莫特1933年到达这里时
When McDermott arrived here in 1933,

424
00:18:15,266 --> 00:18:17,645
他也许认为所多玛
he perhaps thought that Sodom

425
00:18:17,695 --> 00:18:20,882
是一个适合诗人待的地方
was an appropriate place to be for a poet

426
00:18:20,932 --> 00:18:22,418
其道德声誉
whose morale reputation

427
00:18:22,468 --> 00:18:24,635
经常受到质疑
was frequently questioned.

428
00:18:26,451 --> 00:18:28,578
没有电或自来水
With no electricity or running water,

429
00:18:28,628 --> 00:18:30,562
生活对于一个更习惯
life was hard for a man more used

430
00:18:30,612 --> 00:18:32,439
城市生活喧嚣的人来说是艰苦的
to the hustle and bustle of city life.

431
00:18:32,489 --> 00:18:34,519
然而我惊讶地得知
Yet I'm surprised to learn

432
00:18:34,569 --> 00:18:36,482
这位革命诗人
that the revolutionary poet

433
00:18:36,532 --> 00:18:40,699
喜欢对岛上的绅士们进行社交拜访
liked to make social calls on the island's gentry.

434
00:18:41,812 --> 00:18:43,938
- 地主会邀请他们共进晚餐
- The laird would invite them for dinner.

435
00:18:43,988 --> 00:18:46,961
而且 他们会打桥牌
And, they would play bridge,

436
00:18:47,011 --> 00:18:49,538
他们也被邀请到庄园
and they were also invited to the Mans.

437
00:18:49,588 --> 00:18:50,919
或者牧师那里
Or the minister,

438
00:18:50,969 --> 00:18:53,959
尽管我们被告知他和牧师
although we have been told that him and the minister

439
00:18:54,009 --> 00:18:56,044
并不真正合得来
didn't really see eye to eye.

440
00:18:56,094 --> 00:18:57,260
- 如果他们一个是无神论者一个是经济学家
- They wouldn't have done if he was

441
00:18:57,310 --> 00:18:58,258
他们就不会合得来
an atheist and economist.

442
00:18:58,308 --> 00:18:59,261
- 是的 是的
- Yeah yeah.

443
00:18:59,311 --> 00:19:00,258
- 但有趣的是他想要
- But interesting that he wanted to

444
00:19:00,308 --> 00:19:03,558
以某种方式接近上层阶级
somehow get close to the upper classes.

445
00:19:06,094 --> 00:19:08,315
这或许具有讽刺意味
It's perhaps ironic

446
00:19:08,365 --> 00:19:11,449
对于一个公开的共产主义者来说 更喜欢
from an avowed communist to prefer the company

447
00:19:11,499 --> 00:19:13,338
与他意识形态上的敌人为伴
of his ideological enemies

448
00:19:13,388 --> 00:19:15,691
而不是与无产阶级打成一片
to mingling with a proletariat.

449
00:19:15,741 --> 00:19:18,293
但麦克德莫特确实加入过一艘合适的船
But McDermott did join a fitting boat

450
00:19:18,343 --> 00:19:20,407
 on a couple of occasions.
几次

451
00:19:20,457 --> 00:19:24,912
不是为了赚钱 而是为了研究设得兰方言
Not to earn money but to research the Shetland dialect.

452
00:19:24,962 --> 00:19:27,552
他的船员们也会教他一两件事
His shipmates would also teach him a thing or two

453
00:19:27,602 --> 00:19:30,854
关于设得兰的幽默感
about the Shetland sense of humor.

454
00:19:30,904 --> 00:19:32,395
- 有一个船员
- There's one of the crewmen who

455
00:19:32,445 --> 00:19:35,632
喜欢开点玩笑
liked to have a bit of a chuck fun and

456
00:19:35,682 --> 00:19:38,091
有一天他下来并大喊
one day he came down and he shouted.

457
00:19:40,849 --> 00:19:42,795
阿尔·格雷夫斯从船里探出头
Al Graves shot his head out the boat

458
00:19:42,845 --> 00:19:44,458
问那是什么 那是什么？
and said what was that what was that?

459
00:19:44,508 --> 00:19:46,715
嗯 那只是“查克”
Well it was just the chuck.

460
00:19:48,381 --> 00:19:49,333
根本不是一个词
It wasn't a word at all.

461
00:19:49,383 --> 00:19:50,331
- 不 不是
- No, no.

462
00:19:50,381 --> 00:19:51,334
是一个编造的词
It was a made up word.

463
00:19:51,384 --> 00:19:52,772
- 是的 只是开他玩笑 是的
- Yeah just pulling his leg, yeah.

464
00:19:52,822 --> 00:19:54,167
- 如果他在他的一首诗里
- It would have been wonderful if he'd

465
00:19:54,217 --> 00:19:55,515
用了那个词就太棒了
used that word in one of his poems.

466
00:19:55,565 --> 00:19:56,512
- 是的
- Yeah.

467
00:19:57,821 --> 00:19:58,854
- 伟大的斯卡拉马杜
- The great scar-a-ma-du

468
00:19:58,904 --> 00:19:59,851
 of Sodom.
的所多玛

469
00:20:04,781 --> 00:20:07,168
看着港口周围船只的数量
Looking at the number of boats around the harbor,

470
00:20:07,218 --> 00:20:09,370
很明显渔业仍然是
it's pretty clear that fishing remains

471
00:20:09,420 --> 00:20:11,734
当地经济的重要组成部分
a big part of the local economy,

472
00:20:11,784 --> 00:20:14,676
就像在麦克德莫特时代一样
just as it was back in McDermott's day.

473
00:20:14,726 --> 00:20:16,614
它是让岛屿运转的动力
It's what makes the island tick

474
00:20:16,664 --> 00:20:18,331
并且一直如此
and always has done.

475
00:20:20,765 --> 00:20:21,788
沿着关键的一侧
Hitting on the key side

476
00:20:21,838 --> 00:20:24,134
我走向沃尔赛岛最大
I make my way towards one of Whalsay's biggest

477
00:20:24,184 --> 00:20:27,329
和最先进的渔船之一
and most up to date fishing boats,

478
00:20:27,379 --> 00:20:30,546
深海远洋拖网渔船“卡里斯马”号
the deep sea pelagic troller Charisma.

479
00:20:31,805 --> 00:20:32,950
吉米·塔洛克
Jimmy Tulloch

480
00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:34,678
船主兼渔民
owner and fisherman,

481
00:20:34,728 --> 00:20:36,315
好心地提出带我去
has kindly offered to take me to my

482
00:20:36,365 --> 00:20:37,686
下一个目的地
next destination,

483
00:20:37,736 --> 00:20:39,531
外斯凯里斯
Out Skerries.

484
00:20:39,581 --> 00:20:43,089
我只希望他不会让我分摊油费
I just hope he doesn't ask me to split the fuel bill.

485
00:20:43,139 --> 00:20:44,555
吉米 我想你这艘船
Jimmy I imagine you must go through

486
00:20:44,605 --> 00:20:46,698
肯定要消耗不少燃料
quite a lot of fuel on this boat.

487
00:20:46,748 --> 00:20:47,995
油耗怎么样？
What's the consumption like?

488
00:20:48,045 --> 00:20:49,632
- 是的 当我们开得相当快时
- Yeah it's, when we're going pretty fast

489
00:20:49,682 --> 00:20:51,414
你大概会说一吨燃料
you're probably speaking about a ton of fuel

490
00:20:51,464 --> 00:20:52,614
 over the edge.
就没了

491
00:20:52,664 --> 00:20:53,616
- 对的
- Right.

492
00:20:53,666 --> 00:20:55,498
那需要很多油
That's a lot of juice,

493
00:20:55,548 --> 00:20:58,054
这可能使这次成为我搭过
which could make this the most expensive ride

494
00:20:58,104 --> 00:20:59,604
最贵的便车
I've ever hitched.

495
00:21:01,746 --> 00:21:04,310
但“卡里斯马”号有点耗油
But it's hardly surprising Charisma

496
00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:06,630
并不令人惊讶
is a bit of a gas guzzler.

497
00:21:06,680 --> 00:21:08,587
她长71米
She's 71 meters long

498
00:21:08,637 --> 00:21:11,754
重达两千五百吨
and weighs two and a half thousand tons.

499
00:21:11,804 --> 00:21:14,326
而且她不是唯一一艘从沃尔赛岛
And she's not the only big boat operating

500
00:21:14,376 --> 00:21:15,910
运营的大船
from Whalsay.

501
00:21:15,960 --> 00:21:17,947
还有六艘像她这样的船
There are six more like her.

502
00:21:17,997 --> 00:21:20,671
此外还有一支小型船队
In addition to a fleet of smaller craft,

503
00:21:20,721 --> 00:21:25,547
使渔业成为该岛经济的支柱
making fishing the backbone of the island's economy.

504
00:21:25,597 --> 00:21:27,387
- 可能有150人
- Probably have 150 men

505
00:21:27,437 --> 00:21:28,270
在船上工作
aboard,

506
00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:31,590
在各个船体和船只上
by the hulls and boats.

507
00:21:31,640 --> 00:21:33,707
这对于那里1000的人口来说
And that was for population of 1,000 on there

508
00:21:33,757 --> 00:21:35,211
是一个很大的
that's a big

509
00:21:35,261 --> 00:21:37,531
比例了
proportion of the well sorted.

510
00:21:37,581 --> 00:21:39,867
就看渔业了
Just depends on the fishing.

511
00:21:39,917 --> 00:21:41,510
是的 渔业是社区的核心
Yeah it's the heart of the community is fishing.

512
00:21:41,560 --> 00:21:44,227
- 哦是的 全是渔业 是的
- Oh yeah it's all fishing yeah.

513
00:21:46,397 --> 00:21:49,190
“卡里斯马”号捕捞中上层鱼类
Charisma goes after pelagic fish,

514
00:21:49,240 --> 00:21:53,407
这个词源自古希腊语 意为“公海”
a word that comes from the ancient Greek for open sea.

515
00:21:54,978 --> 00:21:58,385
她主要捕捉鲱鱼和鲭鱼
She catches mostly herring and mackerel

516
00:21:58,435 --> 00:21:59,767
为了找到它们
and to find them,

517
00:21:59,817 --> 00:22:03,567
使用一系列令人惊叹的高科技设备
uses an amazing array of high tech equipment.

518
00:22:04,717 --> 00:22:07,643
- 你可以在声纳上看到海岸 海岸的形状
- You can see the shore, the shape of the shore

519
00:22:07,693 --> 00:22:09,707
和鱼群
the fish on the sonar.

520
00:22:09,757 --> 00:22:11,807
你可以分辨出那是一大群鱼
You can tell that it's a big lump of fish

521
00:22:11,857 --> 00:22:13,107
还是一小群
a smaller lump.

522
00:22:14,296 --> 00:22:15,254
- 如果是一大群鱼
- Now if it's a big lump of fish,

523
00:22:15,304 --> 00:22:17,055
那片鱼群会有多大？
how big would that shore be?

524
00:22:17,105 --> 00:22:18,267
有概念吗？
Any idea?

525
00:22:18,317 --> 00:22:19,775
- 有时它们能大到
- Sometimes they can be as big as

526
00:22:19,825 --> 00:22:22,571
五、六英里也许
five or six miles maybe.

527
00:22:22,621 --> 00:22:24,010
- 五、六英里长的鱼群？
- Five or six mile shore?

528
00:22:24,060 --> 00:22:25,050
- 是的
- Yeah.

529
00:22:25,100 --> 00:22:26,651
那就是
That's the

530
00:22:26,701 --> 00:22:28,827
网底的危险
danger of the bottom of the net.

531
00:22:28,877 --> 00:22:31,627
尤其是在天气恶劣的时候
Especially when it's off weather.

532
00:22:34,061 --> 00:22:36,688
“卡里斯马”号航行在北部海域
Charisma sails the seas of the north

533
00:22:36,738 --> 00:22:38,651
希望能有好收获
in the hope of a good catch.

534
00:22:38,701 --> 00:22:42,606
就像沃尔赛岛的船只世世代代所做的那样
Just as Whalsay boats have done for generations.

535
00:22:42,656 --> 00:22:44,906
这是一个持久的传统
It's an enduring tradition.

536
00:22:45,752 --> 00:22:46,742
你是少数剩下的
You're one of the few

537
00:22:46,792 --> 00:22:49,227
狩猎采集者之一 真的
hunter gatherers left really

538
00:22:49,277 --> 00:22:50,310
当你想到
when you think,

539
00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:51,885
这就是人类过去常做的事
that's what human beings used to do.

540
00:22:51,935 --> 00:22:53,787
你出去捕鱼
You're out getting the catch.

541
00:22:53,837 --> 00:22:56,630
- 是的 这就是渔业 是的 而且
- Yeah, that's what fishing is yeah and

542
00:22:56,680 --> 00:22:57,513
设得兰
Shetland,

543
00:22:58,801 --> 00:23:02,204
沃尔赛岛和设得兰都依赖渔业 是的
Whalsay and Shetland depends on the fishing yeah.

544
00:23:02,254 --> 00:23:03,946
- 那就是外斯凯里斯了
- And that's the Skerries out there.

545
00:23:03,996 --> 00:23:05,375
- 那就是斯凯里斯 是的 那是
- That's the Skerries yeah that's.

546
00:23:05,425 --> 00:23:08,342
- 那就是我希望去的地方
- That's what I'm hoping to get to.

547
00:23:10,239 --> 00:23:13,866
斯凯里斯 正如它们在此地为人所知的那样
The Skerries as they're known hereabouts

548
00:23:13,916 --> 00:23:15,883
是一组岛屿和礁石 位于
are a group of islands and reefs that lie

549
00:23:15,933 --> 00:23:19,516
设得兰主岛以东24英里处
24 miles east off the mainland of Shetland.

550
00:23:23,912 --> 00:23:26,806
覆盖面积仅两平方英里
Covering an area of just two square miles,

551
00:23:26,856 --> 00:23:29,962
它们看起来小得几乎不适合居住
they look almost too small to be habitable,

552
00:23:30,012 --> 00:23:32,422
但居住在这里的 hearty breed of folk
but the hearty breed of folk who live here

553
00:23:32,472 --> 00:23:36,123
以其热情好客而享有盛誉
have a great reputation for hospitality.

554
00:23:36,173 --> 00:23:38,406
踏上斯凯里斯的岸
Stepping ashore here on the Skerries

555
00:23:38,456 --> 00:23:41,403
并追随王室成员辉煌的足迹
and following in the illustrious footsteps of royalty

556
00:23:41,453 --> 00:23:43,400
而且是女王本人
and the queen no less.

557
00:23:43,450 --> 00:23:45,163
她于1960年来到这里
Now she came here in 1960,

558
00:23:45,213 --> 00:23:47,523
但我怀疑她的接待委员会
but I suspect that her reception committee

559
00:23:47,573 --> 00:23:50,646
比我的要 impressive 得多
was marginally more impressive than mine.

560
00:23:55,395 --> 00:23:57,883
这部影片拍摄于近60年前
This film was made almost 60 years ago

561
00:23:57,933 --> 00:24:01,941
当时女王来为新码头揭幕
when the queen came to open the new pier.

562
00:24:01,991 --> 00:24:06,074
那时 有超过100人住在斯凯里斯
Back then, over 100 people lived on the Skerries.

563
00:24:07,112 --> 00:24:09,222
有三个主要岛屿
There are three principle islands.

564
00:24:09,272 --> 00:24:11,766
豪赛岛、布鲁雷岛和格鲁奈岛
Housay, Bruray, and Grunay,

565
00:24:11,816 --> 00:24:16,006
以及许多较小的岩石和礁岛
as well as lots of smaller rocks and skerries.

566
00:24:16,056 --> 00:24:18,527
如今只有豪赛岛和布鲁雷岛有人居住
Only Housay and Bruray are inhabited today,

567
00:24:18,577 --> 00:24:21,526
由一座小桥连接
connected by a small bridge.

568
00:24:21,576 --> 00:24:23,158
只有一英里长的路
There's only a mile of road

569
00:24:23,208 --> 00:24:25,643
它引我来到一位斯凯里斯女子的门前
and it leads me to the door of a Skerries woman

570
00:24:25,693 --> 00:24:28,806
她的家族世代居住于此
whose family have lived here for generations.

571
00:24:28,856 --> 00:24:31,008
爱丽丝·阿瑟 她曾短暂出现在
Alice Arthur, who made a brief appearance

572
00:24:31,058 --> 00:24:34,245
那部有女王出演的影片中
in the film starring the queen.

573
00:24:34,295 --> 00:24:36,607
- 我当时四个月大 所以
- I was four months old at the time so

574
00:24:36,657 --> 00:24:39,157
我显然不记得了 但
I don't remember obviously but

575
00:24:40,232 --> 00:24:42,165
是的 那是斯凯里斯
yeah it was a huge day in the

576
00:24:42,215 --> 00:24:43,905
 house three 的重大日子
house three of Skerries.

577
00:24:43,955 --> 00:24:45,142
- 那不是你唯一一次
- That's not the only time

578
00:24:45,192 --> 00:24:46,283
见到女王吧？
you met the queen though is it?

579
00:24:46,333 --> 00:24:48,443
事实上 在我看来这似乎是一段更长久持续关系
In fact it's part of a longer continued relationship

580
00:24:48,493 --> 00:24:49,461
的一部分
it seems to me.

581
00:24:49,511 --> 00:24:51,062
- 是的
- Yeah.

582
00:24:51,112 --> 00:24:52,742
2006年
In 2006,

583
00:24:52,792 --> 00:24:54,666
爱丽丝受白金汉宫邀请
Alice was invited by Buckingham Palace

584
00:24:54,716 --> 00:24:57,142
接受女王授予的MBE勋章
to receive an MBE from the queen.

585
00:24:57,192 --> 00:24:58,945
就在六年前
Just six years earlier,

586
00:24:58,995 --> 00:25:02,981
她的父亲被授予了同样的荣誉
her father was honored with the same award.

587
00:25:03,031 --> 00:25:06,339
- 所以我告诉我的孩子们现在压力来了
- So I'm telling my kids that the pressure's on now

588
00:25:06,389 --> 00:25:08,102
因为这是个家族传统
'cause it's a family tradition.

589
00:25:08,152 --> 00:25:10,652
他们中必须有一个获得MBE
One of them has to get an MBE.

590
00:25:11,937 --> 00:25:13,460
爱丽丝的奖项是为了表彰
Alice's award was in recognition

591
00:25:13,510 --> 00:25:16,865
她对当地消防队
of her services to the local fire brigade

592
00:25:16,915 --> 00:25:19,998
以及斯凯里斯社区的服务
and to the community on the Skerries.

593
00:25:20,893 --> 00:25:22,179
但那并非她所做的全部
But that wasn't all she did.

594
00:25:22,229 --> 00:25:25,585
爱丽丝也在鱼品加工厂工作过
Alice also worked in the fish factory,

595
00:25:25,635 --> 00:25:27,363
在学校担任美术老师
at school was an art teacher,

596
00:25:27,413 --> 00:25:30,022
并在家族农场上劳作
and on the family croft.

597
00:25:30,072 --> 00:25:31,989
那真是身兼数职
That's a lot of different hats.

598
00:25:32,039 --> 00:25:33,365
- 很多不同的角色 是的
- Lot of different hats yes.

599
00:25:33,415 --> 00:25:36,666
- 但遗憾的是 自那以后情况发生了很大变化
- But sadly things have changed a lot since then.

600
00:25:36,716 --> 00:25:39,504
- 似乎一切发生得非常突然
- It seems like it's all happened very suddenly it's

601
00:25:39,554 --> 00:25:42,646
就在过去两年里 情况真的急转直下
been just in the last two year that it's really gone

602
00:25:42,696 --> 00:25:43,863
 downhill fast.
快速恶化

603
00:25:44,872 --> 00:25:48,123
我们失去了学校的
We've lost the secondary department

604
00:25:48,173 --> 00:25:49,563
中学部
of the school,

605
00:25:49,613 --> 00:25:52,203
我们失去了鲑鱼养殖场
we've lost the salmon farm.

606
00:25:52,253 --> 00:25:55,379
我们失去了飞往岛上的航班 我们失去了
We've lost the flights coming into the isle we've lost the

607
00:25:55,429 --> 00:25:56,512
消防队
fire brigade.

608
00:25:59,352 --> 00:26:01,403
我们目前真的很艰难
We're really struggling at the moment.

609
00:26:01,453 --> 00:26:03,382
- 那是巨大的损失 不是吗？
- That's a terrible loss isn't it?

610
00:26:03,432 --> 00:26:05,526
因为我的意思是 那些是维系社区
Because I mean those are the very important

611
00:26:05,576 --> 00:26:07,905
结构的非常重要的
components that the fabric that holds

612
00:26:07,955 --> 00:26:08,902
组成部分
the community together.

613
00:26:08,952 --> 00:26:09,905
是的
Yeah.

614
00:26:09,955 --> 00:26:10,906
为了生存
To survive.

615
00:26:10,956 --> 00:26:11,909
并展望未来 如果没有那些
And to look to the future, you don't have that

616
00:26:11,959 --> 00:26:13,328
生活将会很艰难
life's gonna be a struggle.

617
00:26:13,378 --> 00:26:15,128
- 是的 确实如此
- Yeah, it really is.

618
00:26:16,136 --> 00:26:17,969
但我们会继续奋斗
But we'll struggle on.

619
00:26:19,912 --> 00:26:21,298
所有这些逆境
All this adversity

620
00:26:21,348 --> 00:26:24,339
并未减少爱丽丝对她家园的热爱
hasn't diminished Alice's love for her home.

621
00:26:24,389 --> 00:26:26,246
这是一个值得珍惜的地方
It's a place to treasure,

622
00:26:26,296 --> 00:26:27,629
字面意义上也是如此
quite literally.

623
00:26:29,235 --> 00:26:31,382
据人们记忆所及
For as long as anyone can remember,

624
00:22:31,432 --> 00:26:33,302
沉没的宝藏一直不断地
sunken treasure has been continually

625
00:26:33,352 --> 00:26:36,043
被冲上岸 来自那些
washed ashore from ships,

626
00:26:36,093 --> 00:26:39,093
很久以前在崎岖海岸失事的船只
wrecked long ago on the harsh coast.

627
00:26:40,355 --> 00:26:42,220
- 嗯 这个来自一艘
- Well that came from a

628
00:26:42,270 --> 00:26:44,020
荷兰东印度公司的船
Dutch East India man.

629
00:26:46,468 --> 00:26:48,473
我父亲发现了这个
My dad found this one

630
00:26:48,523 --> 00:26:49,963
卡在
stuck in the

631
00:26:50,013 --> 00:26:51,458
岩石的裂缝里
crevice in the rock.

632
00:26:51,508 --> 00:26:52,425
- 啊 对的
- Ah right.

633
00:26:53,289 --> 00:26:55,239
而这个银制的 侧面刻有
And this silver one has got an inscription

634
00:26:55,289 --> 00:26:57,639
一圈铭文
running around the side.

635
00:26:57,689 --> 00:26:59,319
用拉丁文 写着“Concordia”
In Latin, it says Concordia

636
00:26:59,369 --> 00:27:00,202
“Resparva”
Resparva

637
00:27:02,628 --> 00:27:03,461
“Corescunt”
Corescunt.

638
00:27:04,948 --> 00:27:07,116
我想这是拉丁语
Which I think is Latin

639
00:27:07,166 --> 00:27:08,998
意为“和谐中，微小事物得以成长”
for in harmony small things grow.

640
00:27:09,048 --> 00:27:11,100
真的吗？
Really?

641
00:27:11,150 --> 00:27:13,806
- 是的 并且我认为对于一小群岛屿来说
- Yeah, and I think for a small group of islands,

642
00:27:13,856 --> 00:27:16,229
拥有一个不确定的未来
with an uncertain future,

643
00:27:16,279 --> 00:27:18,271
这是一个美妙的护身符
that's a wonderful talisman.

644
00:27:18,321 --> 00:27:20,052
- 太神奇了
- That's amazing.

645
00:27:20,102 --> 00:27:22,629
那可以成为我们的格言
That could be our motto

646
00:27:22,679 --> 00:27:24,469
为斯凯里斯
for Skerries.

647
00:27:24,519 --> 00:27:27,989
- 我认为它应该是 爱丽丝 我认为应该
- I think it should be Alice, I think it should.

648
00:27:34,599 --> 00:27:36,650
当我走向旅程的终点时
As I head to journey's end,

649
00:27:36,700 --> 00:27:40,410
我回想这趟迷人的伟大之旅
I reflect on what has been a fascinating grand tour,

650
00:27:40,460 --> 00:27:42,649
在那里我发现岛屿生活
where I found island life

651
00:27:42,699 --> 00:27:45,011
既坚韧又脆弱
to be both robust and fragile.

652
00:27:45,061 --> 00:27:47,033
斯凯里斯在21世纪
The Skerries may have been having a hard time

653
00:27:47,083 --> 00:27:49,231
可能经历了一段艰难时期
in the 21st Century,

654
00:27:49,281 --> 00:27:53,231
但就像我探索过的三个岛屿中的每一个一样
but like each of the three islands I've explored,

655
00:27:53,281 --> 00:27:54,631
它都有自己的声音
it has its own voice,

656
00:27:54,681 --> 00:27:56,471
因岛民们
made proud and distinctive

657
00:27:56,521 --> 00:27:58,655
保持社区活力的决心
by the determination of the islanders

658
00:27:58,705 --> 00:28:01,372
而变得自豪和独特
 to keep their communities alive.

659
00:28:05,441 --> 00:28:06,751
所以我们到了
So here we are,

660
00:28:06,801 --> 00:28:08,355
旅程的终点
journey's end,

661
00:28:08,405 --> 00:28:10,671
在一个我愿称之为
on an island that I like to think of as

662
00:28:10,721 --> 00:28:13,497
苏格兰东部边疆的岛屿上
Scotland's eastern frontier,

663
00:28:13,547 --> 00:28:16,005
因为如果你继续向那个方向航行
because if you keep sailing that way

664
00:28:16,055 --> 00:28:18,794
最近的陆地是挪威海岸
the nearest landfall is the coast of Norway

665
00:28:18,844 --> 00:28:21,652
大约200海里之外
about 200 nautical miles away.

666
00:28:21,702 --> 00:28:24,174
但老实说 在这样一个夜晚
But to be honest, on an evening like this,

667
00:28:24,224 --> 00:28:26,693
我真的不想去任何其他地方
I really wouldn't want to be anywhere else

668
00:28:26,743 --> 00:28:29,410
只想待在斯凯里斯这里
than right here on the Skerries.

669
00:28:32,718 --> 00:28:33,813
斯库伊岛
The isle of Skuy

670
00:28:33,863 --> 00:28:35,993
是我下一次伟大之旅的目的地
is the destination for my next grand tour.

671
00:28:36,043 --> 00:28:37,770
在那里我将探索
Where I'll be exploring

672
00:28:37,820 --> 00:28:40,237
一个巨人和精灵的土地
a land of giants and fairies.