1 00:00:06,716 --> 00:00:10,184 - 苏格兰海岸周围散布着数十座岛屿 - Around the Scottish coast, there are dozens of islands. 2 00:00:10,234 --> 00:00:13,119 有些面积广阔，有些则小巧玲珑 Some great, others small, which is separated 3 00:00:13,169 --> 00:00:16,398 它们与大陆仅一水之隔 from the mainland by just a short stretch of water, 4 00:00:16,448 --> 00:00:18,781 最近处甚至不过数码之遥 sometimes just yards across. 5 00:00:20,292 --> 00:00:23,694 先民被吸引到爱尔兰的原因很简单 Early people were drawn to Ireland because, well, 6 00:00:23,744 --> 00:00:27,414 正是因其与世隔绝的特性：四面环水 they're just that: separate, surrounded by water 7 00:00:27,464 --> 00:00:32,247 作为一片易于防守的孤悬之地 and easily-defended piece of land that's a world apart. 8 00:00:32,297 --> 00:00:35,414 但时至今日，这些曾经吸引人的特质 But today, the very things that once made Ireland 9 00:00:35,464 --> 00:00:37,510 却成了阻碍 attractive have become obstacles 10 00:00:37,560 --> 00:00:40,666 许多岛民发现 and many islanders find that just how 11 00:00:40,716 --> 00:00:44,763 能否跨越这片水域 the watery gap is overcome makes all the difference 12 00:00:44,813 --> 00:00:47,146 直接决定着去留的选择 between staying and leaving. 13 00:00:49,524 --> 00:00:52,707 本系列中，我将展开一场跳岛之旅 In this series, I'm on an island-hopping journey, 14 00:00:52,757 --> 00:00:54,661 前往北方群岛 which takes me to the northern isles, 15 00:00:54,711 --> 00:00:58,544 探秘赫布里底群岛 explores the Hebrides and tries to unravel the secrets 16 00:00:58,594 --> 00:01:00,805 试图揭开一些欧洲最偏远 of some of the remotest and most 17 00:01:00,855 --> 00:01:03,188 最神秘地域的面纱 mysterious places in Europe. 18 00:01:05,010 --> 00:01:07,937 要精确统计苏格兰壮丽海岸线的岛屿总数 It's impossible to be precise about the total number 19 00:01:07,987 --> 00:01:12,240 几乎不可能，但为我的跳岛计划 of Scotland's fabulous coast, but for my islandbacking 20 00:01:12,290 --> 00:01:15,799 我断言绝对超过250座 purposes, I claim it's well over 250 21 00:01:15,849 --> 00:01:18,892 这还不包括沿岸无数的海蚀柱 and that's not counting the myriads of stacks, 22 00:01:18,942 --> 00:01:22,192 礁石与岩礁 rocks and scurries lying just offshore. 23 00:01:23,986 --> 00:01:26,551 这次宏伟旅程中，我将横渡海峡 For this grand tour, I'm crossing the Kyles 24 00:01:26,601 --> 00:01:28,685 探访一些最袖珍的岛屿 to reach some of the smallest islands 25 00:01:28,735 --> 00:01:32,274 它们毗邻哈里斯与刘易斯岛 that lie close to Harris and Lewis. 26 00:01:47,355 --> 00:01:49,514 我的旅程将沿着海岸线行进 My journey takes me around the coast 27 00:01:49,564 --> 00:01:51,763 环绕哈里斯与刘易斯的长岛 of the long island of Harris and Lewis. 28 00:01:51,813 --> 00:01:55,564 从斯卡普岛启程，北至大贝尔纳拉岛 Beginning on Scarp, traveling north to Great Bernera 29 00:01:55,614 --> 00:01:58,114 再向东南抵达斯卡尔佩岛 and then southeast to Scalpay. 30 00:02:00,391 --> 00:02:03,318 我始于哈里斯崎岖的北海岸 I'm starting on the rugged north coast of Harris, 31 00:02:03,368 --> 00:02:06,012 即将进行短短半英里的横渡 where I'm making the short half-mile crossing 32 00:02:06,062 --> 00:02:09,229 穿过海峡前往首站目的地 over the Kyle to my first destination. 33 00:02:10,344 --> 00:02:13,507 斯卡普岛是我心驰神往之地 The island of Scarp is a place I've always wanted to visit. 34 00:02:13,557 --> 00:02:16,073 它就在那儿，距我站立的哈里斯岛 It's over there, literally, a few hundred yards from 35 00:02:16,123 --> 00:02:19,007 仅数百码之遥 where I'm standing on the isle of Harris, yet it's 36 00:02:19,057 --> 00:02:21,528 却令人沮丧地难以抵达 frustratingly difficult to get to. 37 00:02:21,578 --> 00:02:24,370 没有定期渡轮，没有桥梁 There's no regular ferry service, no bridge. 38 00:02:24,420 --> 00:02:28,420 要过去只能靠自己想办法 So to cross over, you have to make your own way. 39 00:02:31,975 --> 00:02:35,725 为今日前往斯卡普岛，我租了艘橡皮艇 To get to Scarp today, I've hired a rib, 40 00:02:35,775 --> 00:02:38,697 同行的是两位斯卡普老居民： making the cross with me are two Scarp veterans: 41 00:02:38,747 --> 00:02:42,414 唐纳德·约翰·麦金尼斯与休·丹·麦克伦南 Donald John MacInnes and Hugh Dan MacLennan. 42 00:02:44,340 --> 00:02:47,078 - 我母亲是当下最年长的在世者 - My mother is the oldest living person at the moment 43 00:02:47,128 --> 00:02:48,667 出生于斯卡普岛 who was born on Scarp. 44 00:02:48,717 --> 00:02:51,691 她即将迎来91岁生日 She's heading for her 91st birthday soon 45 00:02:51,741 --> 00:02:55,189 我们过去每年夏天都来此度假 and we used to come here every summer for the holidays. 46 00:02:55,239 --> 00:02:59,951 所以我对这里有着极其深厚的情感羁绊 So there's a hugely strong emotional attachment for me. 47 00:03:00,001 --> 00:03:01,902 - 我在此出生并长大 - I was born and brought up here. 48 00:03:01,952 --> 00:03:06,267 1947年我出生于此，家人一直居住到 I was born here in 1947 and then my family lived here 49 00:03:06,317 --> 00:03:07,234 1971年 until 1971. 50 00:03:08,931 --> 00:03:10,898 我们是最后一个传统家庭 We were the last family, traditional family, 51 00:03:10,948 --> 00:03:12,615 离开这座岛屿 to leave the island. 52 00:03:15,272 --> 00:03:17,910 尽管与哈里斯岛近在咫尺，斯卡普却始终 Despite being so close to Harris, Scarp never 53 00:03:17,960 --> 00:03:20,463 未有正规渡轮服务 had a proper ferry service. 54 00:03:20,513 --> 00:03:22,882 这正是唐纳德·约翰等家庭 This was one of the reasons why people like Donald John's 55 00:03:22,932 --> 00:03:25,849 陆续迁离的原因之一 family began to leave until the island 56 00:03:25,899 --> 00:03:28,232 直至1970年代被彻底废弃 was abandoned in the 1970's. 57 00:03:31,461 --> 00:03:34,111 回溯1950年代，斯卡普曾是纯正的 Back in the 1950's, Scarp was a wholly 58 00:03:34,161 --> 00:03:36,207 盖尔语社区 Gaelic-speaking community. 59 00:03:36,257 --> 00:03:38,860 曾有19个家庭居住于此 There were 19 families living in the village, 60 00:03:38,910 --> 00:03:42,327 人口约70人 which had a population of about 70 souls. 61 00:03:43,760 --> 00:03:46,150 唐纳德·约翰带我们穿行于废墟 Donald John takes us through the ruins 62 00:03:46,200 --> 00:03:48,815 来到他出生的老屋 to the house where he was born. 63 00:03:48,865 --> 00:03:50,294 这里就是你一切的起点 And this is where it all started for you, then, 64 00:03:50,344 --> 00:03:51,127 唐纳德·约翰 Donald Johnathon. 65 00:03:51,177 --> 00:03:52,694 - 是啊，没错 - Oh, yes, I suppose. 66 00:03:52,744 --> 00:03:55,459 我在这栋房子里出生 I was born in this house. 67 00:03:55,509 --> 00:03:57,851 这房子建于1882年 Originally, when the house was built in 1882, 68 00:03:57,901 --> 00:04:01,881 这里曾是我祖父的商店 this was my grandfather's shop in here. 69 00:04:01,931 --> 00:04:02,904 店面挺小的 It's quite a small shop. 70 00:04:02,954 --> 00:04:05,950 - 虽小但货品齐全 - It was a small shop, but he had lots in it, apparently. 71 00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:07,998 卖靴子还有—— - 靴子？ Sold boots and-- - Boots? 72 00:04:08,048 --> 00:04:11,182 - 靴子、食品、鱼货 - Boots and food and fish and all sorts of things 73 00:04:11,232 --> 00:04:12,610 各种当时人们需要的物资 people needed at that time, so. 74 00:04:12,660 --> 00:04:15,438 这可是北哈里斯的超市啊 This was a supermarket of North Harris. 75 00:04:15,488 --> 00:04:16,283 - 真的吗？ - 是啊 - Really? - Yeah, yeah. 76 00:04:16,333 --> 00:04:18,294 - 所以人们会从大陆社区 - So people would come from communities 77 00:04:18,344 --> 00:04:19,996 渡海过来？ on the mainland and cross here? 78 00:04:20,046 --> 00:04:21,182 - 是的，他还有船 - Well, yes and he had boats, 79 00:04:21,232 --> 00:04:23,374 也会驾船前往各个社区 and he would sail these to communities as well. 80 00:04:23,424 --> 00:04:25,350 所以还提供送货上门服务 So he did home deliveries as well. 81 00:04:25,400 --> 00:04:28,334 - 太厉害了 - 用这种小帆船 - That's amazing. - On this on-the-line thing. 82 00:04:28,384 --> 00:04:32,097 一点都不好笑 - 陡降坡真够呛 It's not amusing at all. - Sharp wee drop. 83 00:04:32,147 --> 00:04:33,867 站在这里作何感想 What's it like for you sort of standing here 84 00:04:33,917 --> 00:04:37,484 置身于出生之地的残垣断壁间？ in amongst the stones of the house where you were born? 85 00:04:37,534 --> 00:04:41,287 重回故地一定百感交集吧 It must be quite a pointed place to come to. 86 00:04:41,337 --> 00:04:43,479 - 百感交集？或许不是 - Pointed, maybe not pointed. 87 00:04:43,529 --> 00:04:47,147 我乐于见证它回归自然 I like the idea of it going back to native. 88 00:04:47,197 --> 00:04:49,282 这些年来很多人对我说 Over the years, a lot of people have said to me, 89 00:04:49,332 --> 00:04:50,715 "为何不重建它？" "Why don't you rebuild it?" 90 00:04:50,765 --> 00:04:54,053 但重建后只会成为度假屋 But, it would only ever be rebuilt as a holiday house 91 00:04:54,103 --> 00:04:56,971 我不确定是否喜欢这样 and I'm not so sure if I like that idea. 92 00:04:57,021 --> 00:04:59,975 我宁愿它保持原貌 I'd rather it just go back to the way it was. 93 00:05:03,438 --> 00:05:05,886 - 从唐纳德·约翰的老家往下走 - Just down from Donald John's old family home 94 00:05:05,936 --> 00:05:09,826 有栋房子承载着休·丹的特殊记忆 is a house that holds special memories for Hugh Dan. 95 00:05:09,876 --> 00:05:13,307 斯卡普岛14号现已成为度假屋 Number 14 Scarp is now a holiday home. 96 00:05:13,357 --> 00:05:15,791 休·丹的叔叔婶婶婚后曾居住于此 This is where Hugh Dan's uncle and aunt lived 97 00:05:15,841 --> 00:05:18,508 他们1952年结为连理 after they were married in 1952. 98 00:05:21,651 --> 00:05:24,570 这段老旧家庭影像记录了欢乐场景 This old home movie captures the happy occasion 99 00:05:24,620 --> 00:05:27,096 新娘新郎乘船渡海 when the bride and groom were ferried and piped 100 00:05:27,146 --> 00:05:30,563 在风笛声中踏上岛屿 尽显赫布里底风情 across the island in true Hebridan style. 101 00:05:32,110 --> 00:05:34,817 但当新婚夫妇步入 But things began to go awry when the newlyweds 102 00:05:34,867 --> 00:05:37,356 婚房后 状况频出 entered the matrimonial home. 103 00:05:37,406 --> 00:05:38,897 - 不知怎么搞的 - Somehow, they contrived. 104 00:05:38,947 --> 00:05:40,965 当他们准备换回 When they were going to change back into their 105 00:05:41,015 --> 00:05:42,872 婚宴盛装去校舍参加招待会时 wedding finery to go and have the reception 106 00:05:42,922 --> 00:05:44,996 他们走进卧室 down at the schoolhouse, they would enter the bedroom 107 00:05:45,046 --> 00:05:48,834 锁上门却出不来了 and locked the bedroom door and couldn't get out. 108 00:05:48,884 --> 00:05:51,211 钥匙卡住了之类的情况 The key jammed or something like that. 109 00:05:51,261 --> 00:05:52,942 最后结果是 So the end result was 110 00:05:52,992 --> 00:05:54,796 他们只能从—— - 被困住了 that they had to come out-- - They were trapped. 111 00:05:54,846 --> 00:05:56,213 - 确实如此 他们只能 - Well, they were and they had to come out 112 00:05:56,263 --> 00:05:59,547 穿着全套礼服从这扇窗户爬出来 through this window here in all their wedding finery. 113 00:05:59,597 --> 00:06:02,561 他们需要被人搀扶着翻过窗户 They had to be helped through this window 114 00:06:02,611 --> 00:06:05,083 之后才随着人群 before they then took off down with the whole mass, 115 00:06:05,133 --> 00:06:08,673 全岛人一起前往盛大的婚宴现场 the island down into the huge wedding reception, 116 00:06:08,723 --> 00:06:10,215 宴席设在校舍内 which was taken place in the schoolhouse. 117 00:06:10,265 --> 00:06:11,048 你也记得那件事吧 You remember that event too. 118 00:06:11,098 --> 00:06:11,881 - 记得 - I do. 119 00:06:11,931 --> 00:06:14,848 当时我五岁 我的记忆停留在 I was five years old and my memory of it 120 00:06:14,898 --> 00:06:17,190 第二天早晨去上学 is the following morning and going to school 121 00:06:17,240 --> 00:06:19,492 路过这里时 and going, walking right past here 122 00:06:19,542 --> 00:06:21,566 大约早上八点半 at something like half past eight in the morning 123 00:06:21,616 --> 00:06:24,810 想着当天还要上学 going to the school thinking that we were going 124 00:06:24,860 --> 00:06:27,448 结果看到 to have a school day that day and they, so 125 00:06:27,498 --> 00:06:30,781 最后一批船只离岛 I saw the last boats leaving the island, 126 00:06:30,831 --> 00:06:32,895 载着婚宴宾客 carrying the wedding guests. 127 00:06:32,945 --> 00:06:33,774 - 那些迟迟未归的人 - The stragglers. 128 00:06:33,824 --> 00:06:35,047 - 那些彻夜狂欢的滞留宾客 - The stragglers who had been up all night 129 00:06:35,097 --> 00:06:37,333 教师挥手向他们道别 and the schoolteacher waving them goodbye 130 00:06:37,383 --> 00:06:40,337 我们上学时 老师看见了我们 and as we went up to school, the school teacher saw us. 131 00:06:40,387 --> 00:06:42,622 他惊愕地说："今天不上课 He was horrified and said, "There's no school today. 132 00:06:42,672 --> 00:06:46,089 你们快回家去吧" "Off you go back home, go home, go home." 133 00:06:48,670 --> 00:06:50,668 14号下方的矮石墙 The low stone walls below number 14 134 00:06:50,718 --> 00:06:53,721 是古老村道的遗迹 are the ruins of the old village street. 135 00:06:53,771 --> 00:06:57,554 这里曾是斯卡普议会的集会地 This is where the Scarp parliament met, taking 136 00:06:57,604 --> 00:07:02,047 在此做出影响整个社区的重大决策 significant decision that effected the whole community. 137 00:07:02,097 --> 00:07:04,221 - 我祖父是当时运作体系中的 - My grandfather was one of the senior elders 138 00:07:04,271 --> 00:07:06,983 资深长老之一 in the structure they operated at the time 139 00:07:07,033 --> 00:07:09,220 现存议会照片中 and he's the central figure in the picture 140 00:07:09,270 --> 00:07:12,035 他是核心人物 of the Scarp parliament which we have. 141 00:07:12,085 --> 00:07:14,185 他们会决定当天剩余时间 They would decide what we were going to do 142 00:07:14,235 --> 00:07:15,940 及下周的工作安排 for the next of the day, for the next of the week. 143 00:07:15,990 --> 00:07:17,814 决策依据包括 They would decide that on the basis of 144 00:07:17,864 --> 00:07:20,953 时节因素与待办事项 what time of year it was, what needed to be done. 145 00:07:21,003 --> 00:07:22,987 最明显的是 没有女性参与 And very significantly, no women. 146 00:07:23,037 --> 00:07:23,914 - 没有女性 - No women. 147 00:07:23,964 --> 00:07:25,154 这是纯男性议会 It was male-only parliament. 148 00:07:25,204 --> 00:07:27,084 - 确实如此 当时就是这般 - Yes, it was and that's just the way it was 149 00:07:27,134 --> 00:07:28,986 因为女性承担不同任务 because the women had different tasks 150 00:07:29,036 --> 00:07:31,681 她们会在—— - 她们正在劳作 and they would've been in-- - They were working. 151 00:07:31,731 --> 00:07:33,154 - 她们要挤牛奶 - They would've been milking 152 00:07:33,204 --> 00:07:34,480 还有其他事务要处理 and they had other things to do. 153 00:07:34,530 --> 00:07:35,945 当时的风气便是如此 It's just the way it was. 154 00:07:35,995 --> 00:07:39,587 所以男性用清晨时间决策 So the men spent their morning making decisions 155 00:07:39,637 --> 00:07:43,000 而女性包揽所有工作 while the women did all the work. 156 00:07:43,050 --> 00:07:45,666 为纪念父权制的"美好旧时光" In recognition of the good ol' days of patriarchy, 157 00:07:45,716 --> 00:07:49,540 我为休·丹拍了张照片 让他坐在祖父当年 I take a picture of Hugh Dan occupying his grandfather's 158 00:07:49,590 --> 00:07:51,173 的议会席位上 seat in Parliament. 159 00:07:55,397 --> 00:07:58,074 斯卡普虽偏远 却拥有 Scarp might've been remote, but it was endowed 160 00:07:58,124 --> 00:08:01,550 构成文明社会的诸多机构： with many of the institutions that make up civil society: 161 00:08:01,600 --> 00:08:05,600 议会、教堂 当然还有学校 a parliament, a church, and of course, a school. 162 00:08:06,934 --> 00:08:07,842 这就是你当年常待的地方 This is where you would hang out. 163 00:08:07,892 --> 00:08:11,142 - 是啊 给小孩用的大号挂衣钉 - Yeah, big cord pegs for little people 164 00:08:11,989 --> 00:08:15,056 这个单间就是当时的学校 and then into the single room is a school here, 165 00:08:15,106 --> 00:08:16,313 小学教室 primary school. 166 00:08:16,363 --> 00:08:17,172 - 这是间教室 - This is a classroom. 167 00:08:17,222 --> 00:08:19,400 - 就是这里 就是这儿 - This was it, this was it. 168 00:08:19,450 --> 00:08:22,123 角落那边是烟囱 旧时 Chimney in the corner there and in the old days, 169 00:08:22,173 --> 00:08:26,800 每人每天要带一块泥炭来生火 everybody would bring a peet everyday for the fire. 170 00:08:26,850 --> 00:08:27,633 真的吗？ Really? 171 00:08:27,683 --> 00:08:30,918 - 这里的教师极力鼓励孩子们 - The teachers here were very encouraging of kids 172 00:08:30,968 --> 00:08:35,038 去探索世界 本质上是通过教育 to go and explore the world, basically to educate yourself 173 00:08:35,088 --> 00:08:36,473 离开这个地方 out of the place, in a way. 174 00:08:36,523 --> 00:08:39,227 我觉得这常是个悖论 That's a paradox often, I suspect. 175 00:08:39,277 --> 00:08:43,278 在此出生成长的人们被鼓励 People who were born and brought up here were invited 176 00:08:43,328 --> 00:08:45,884 去世界各地发展 to go and do things all over the world, 177 00:08:45,934 --> 00:08:49,517 却无法留在出生之岛 but not on the island where they were born. 178 00:08:52,547 --> 00:08:55,336 唐纳德·约翰后来上了大学 最终 Donald John went onto university and ended up 179 00:08:55,386 --> 00:08:58,094 为苏格兰政府驻布鲁塞尔机构工作 working for the Scottish government in Brussels, 180 00:08:58,144 --> 00:09:00,727 推动经济发展 promoting economic development. 181 00:09:01,977 --> 00:09:04,528 来自斯卡普这类欠发达岛屿 The irony of coming from an underdeveloped island 182 00:09:04,578 --> 00:09:07,778 的讽刺性他深有体会 like Scarp isn't lost on him. 183 00:09:07,828 --> 00:09:10,823 那你认为衰落是不可避免的？ You think the decline was inevitable, then? 184 00:09:10,873 --> 00:09:13,096 - 无疑是无从逃避的 - It was inescapable, for sure. 185 00:09:13,146 --> 00:09:17,313 是否必然 我认为本可以 Whether it was inevitable, I suspect it could have, 186 00:09:18,705 --> 00:09:20,840 本可以建一座桥 it could've built, of course, a bridge. 187 00:09:20,890 --> 00:09:21,937 有桥就方便多了 A bridge would've been a handy thing. 188 00:09:21,987 --> 00:09:23,419 - 是啊 没错 - Oh, yes, that's right. 189 00:09:23,469 --> 00:09:27,302 有直升机也会很好 A helicopter, even, would've been really good. 190 00:09:28,539 --> 00:09:31,694 斯卡普确实提出过空运方案 An aerial link, was in fact, proposed for Scarp. 191 00:09:31,744 --> 00:09:34,520 不是直升机 而是火箭 Not a helicopter, but a rocket. 192 00:09:34,570 --> 00:09:36,843 故事始于1930年代 The story starts in the 1930's 193 00:09:36,893 --> 00:09:40,560 一位来自德国的年轻自封企业家 with the arrival of a young self-styled entrepreneur 194 00:09:40,610 --> 00:09:44,193 兼发明家格哈特·楚克尔的到来 and inventor from Germany, Gerhardt Zucker. 195 00:09:45,260 --> 00:09:49,947 - 他自认为有解决方案 - He decided he had a solution or he said he had a solution 196 00:09:49,997 --> 00:09:54,227 提议从斯卡普发射火箭 by proposing that rockets be launched from Scarp 197 00:09:54,277 --> 00:09:57,297 至哈里斯主岛 用以运送 to the mainland of Harris which would carry 198 00:09:57,347 --> 00:10:00,783 信件等通讯物品 communications such as letters and so on. 199 00:10:00,833 --> 00:10:05,000 - 楚克尔于1934年7月12日抵达斯卡普 - Zucker arrived on Scarp on the 12th of July, 1934. 200 00:10:06,283 --> 00:10:10,307 他早已预售这个概念 筹集资金 He'd already pre-sold the idea, raising cash and producing 201 00:10:10,357 --> 00:10:14,768 并制作纪念邮票 special postal stamps to commemorate the occasion. 202 00:10:14,818 --> 00:10:19,137 这些装饰信件中包含寄给乔治国王的信 These adorned letters included one addressed to King George, 203 00:10:19,187 --> 00:10:22,906 但演示却以尴尬失败告终 but the demonstration was an embarrassing failure. 204 00:10:22,956 --> 00:10:25,504 楚克尔的火箭在发射台爆炸 Zucker's rocket exploded on the launch pad, 205 00:10:25,554 --> 00:10:29,221 信件载荷如雨点般洒落斯卡普 showering Scarp with its payload of letters. 206 00:10:30,192 --> 00:10:33,629 为纪念楚克尔失败的太空邮政冒险 To commemorate Zucker's failed space age post adventure, 207 00:10:33,679 --> 00:10:36,643 我将尝试发射自己的火箭邮件 I'm going to try sending my own rocket mail. 208 00:10:36,693 --> 00:10:39,278 现在我手上有支火箭 还写了 Now I've got a rocket here and I've written 209 00:10:39,328 --> 00:10:43,225 给我阿盖尔老家老母亲的信 a letter to my dear old ma in Argyll and it's simply 210 00:10:43,275 --> 00:10:47,069 只需用这个固定装置 a matter of attaching the letter to the rocket 211 00:10:47,119 --> 00:10:49,224 将信绑在火箭上 with the use of this attaching device 212 00:10:49,274 --> 00:10:53,441 也就是橡皮筋 点燃绿色引信 known as a rubber band, lighting the green touch paper 213 00:10:54,445 --> 00:10:56,555 然后撤退 in this case and retiring. 214 00:10:56,605 --> 00:10:58,188 祝好运吧 So fingers crossed. 215 00:11:00,523 --> 00:11:01,856 装入发射器 Into a launcher. 216 00:11:06,402 --> 00:11:07,319 然后撤退 And retire. 217 00:11:09,706 --> 00:11:11,214 哇 小心 Whoa, look out. 218 00:11:13,421 --> 00:11:14,254 嘿！ Hey! 219 00:11:17,185 --> 00:11:20,685 看来给我妈的信化为了青烟 Looks like ma's letter's gone up in smoke. 220 00:11:23,117 --> 00:11:25,606 楚克尔的火箭邮政注定无法解决 Zucker's rocket post was never going to solve Scarp's 221 00:11:25,656 --> 00:11:28,881 斯卡普的通讯难题 communication problems and as I set off 222 00:11:28,931 --> 00:11:31,065 当我启程前往下一站时 for my next destination, I wonder 223 00:11:31,115 --> 00:11:33,789 我不禁设想 若当年建成连接大陆的桥梁 how the island might have fared had the gap 224 00:11:33,839 --> 00:11:36,187 这座岛屿的命运会如何 to the mainland been bridged. 225 00:11:38,931 --> 00:11:39,937 穿越哈里斯岛途中 Traveling through Harris, 226 00:11:39,987 --> 00:11:41,982 我正前往大贝尔纳拉岛 I'm heading now to Great Bernera. 227 00:11:42,032 --> 00:11:45,233 如同斯卡普岛 它与主岛之间 Like Scrap, it's separated from the mainland 228 00:11:45,283 --> 00:11:48,926 也隔着狭窄水道 by a narrow stretch of water, but unlike Scarp, 229 00:11:48,976 --> 00:11:50,653 但不同的是 这里有桥 it has a bridge. 230 00:11:50,703 --> 00:11:54,870 不过众所周知 建桥过程历经斗争 Though famously, there was a fight to get it built. 231 00:11:56,256 --> 00:11:58,347 这是场对抗官僚体系 It was a struggle against bureaucracy 232 00:11:58,397 --> 00:12:01,049 与当局固执的斗争 and the entrances of the authorities. 233 00:12:01,099 --> 00:12:02,813 若没有桥 社区的存续 Without a bridge, the very future 234 00:12:02,863 --> 00:12:05,529 将受到威胁 of the community was under threat. 235 00:12:05,579 --> 00:12:08,124 经过艰苦抗争 岛民们 After a strenuous campaign, the islanders 236 00:12:08,174 --> 00:12:11,847 赢得了争论 won the argument and when this bridge was finally opened 237 00:12:11,897 --> 00:12:16,064 1953年桥梁竣工时 超过4000人共庆盛事 in 1953, over 4,000 people turned out for the occasion. 238 00:12:22,819 --> 00:12:25,569 大贝尔纳拉是座美丽的岛屿 Great Bernera is a lovely island. 239 00:12:26,867 --> 00:12:30,890 岛长仅六英里 但约300名居民 It's only six miles long, but the population of around 300 240 00:12:30,940 --> 00:12:34,100 因深刻理解直接行动的价值 has a noble reputation for understanding 241 00:12:34,150 --> 00:12:36,400 而享有盛誉 the value of direct action. 242 00:12:37,350 --> 00:12:39,326 19世纪高地清洗运动 In the 19th century, at the height 243 00:12:39,376 --> 00:12:41,765 高峰期 一群年轻人 of the Highland Clearances, a group of young men 244 00:12:41,815 --> 00:12:44,552 向三名法警投掷石块 threw stones at three bailiffs who had come here 245 00:12:44,602 --> 00:12:47,769 这些法警来此向57户人家送达驱逐令 to serve eviction notices on 57 homes. 246 00:12:49,088 --> 00:12:51,943 其中一名法警被激怒 Now one of the bailiffs was so incensed at this 247 00:12:51,993 --> 00:12:53,223 他对年轻人们说： that he said to the young men, 248 00:12:53,273 --> 00:12:56,089 "要是带着枪 我就把你们全毙了" "If I had a gun, I'd shoot the lot of you," 249 00:12:56,139 --> 00:12:58,712 此言彻底激化了局势 which just inflamed the situation. 250 00:12:58,762 --> 00:13:02,929 斗殴爆发 拳脚相向 外套也被撕破 A fight broke out, punches were thrown and a jacket torn. 251 00:13:07,082 --> 00:13:09,256 几天后 一名参与事件的年轻人 A few days later, one of the young men involved 252 00:13:09,306 --> 00:13:11,989 在斯托诺韦被捕 was arrested in Stornoway. 253 00:13:12,039 --> 00:13:14,544 消息传至贝尔纳拉 社区愤而反应 When news reached Bernera, the community reacted 254 00:13:14,594 --> 00:13:19,111 游行进城要求公正审判 angrily and marched on the town demanding justice. 255 00:13:19,161 --> 00:13:22,007 这场大胆的抗争行动 It was a bold act of defiance, which resulted 256 00:13:22,057 --> 00:13:25,185 为佃农赢得了著名胜利 in a famous victory for the crofters, 257 00:13:25,235 --> 00:13:28,992 为争取佃农权利铺平道路 paving the way to securing crofters' rights. 258 00:13:29,042 --> 00:13:31,373 几年前 这座石冢被建立以纪念 A few years ago, this can was built to commemorate 259 00:13:31,423 --> 00:13:34,771 被称为"大贝尔纳拉暴动"的事件 what's become known as the Great Bernera Riot 260 00:13:34,821 --> 00:13:36,959 特别契合的是 它由岛上 and rather fittingly, it's made of stones 261 00:13:37,009 --> 00:13:40,354 所有佃农家庭的石块砌成 that come from all the crofts on the island. 262 00:13:40,404 --> 00:13:43,878 这确实是团结与集体行动的 It's really a very appropriate symbol of unity 263 00:13:43,928 --> 00:13:45,761 绝对象征 and collective action. 264 00:13:55,170 --> 00:13:56,973 行至岛屿北端 Walking to the north end of the island, 265 00:13:57,023 --> 00:14:00,777 我来到一片绝美海滩 I come to an extraordinarily beautiful beach. 266 00:14:00,827 --> 00:14:04,910 这里是博斯塔 赫布里底群岛的明珠之一 This is Bosta, one of the jewels of the Hebrides. 267 00:14:07,213 --> 00:14:10,319 沙层中沉淀的历史印记 There are layers of history in the sand here that testify 268 00:14:10,369 --> 00:14:14,536 见证着数千年前的人类聚落 to human settlements going back thousands of years. 269 00:14:15,672 --> 00:14:20,311 1993年 一场风暴揭开了罕见的考古瑰宝 In 1993, a storm uncovered a rare archaeological gem 270 00:14:20,361 --> 00:14:23,814 为了解2000年前赫布里底生活 that gives a unique insight into what Hebridan life 271 00:14:23,864 --> 00:14:25,947 提供了独特视角 was like 2,000 years ago. 272 00:14:27,704 --> 00:14:30,434 - 你好 伊丽莎白 - 欢迎来到博斯塔 - Hi, Elizabeth. - Hello and welcome to Bosta. 273 00:14:30,484 --> 00:14:31,267 - 很高兴见到你 - Nice to meet you. 274 00:14:31,317 --> 00:14:33,460 这是博斯塔铁器时代屋舍 This is the Bosta Iron Age house, 275 00:14:33,510 --> 00:14:35,152 伊丽莎白·麦克劳德在此 where Elizabeth MacLeod plays host 276 00:14:35,202 --> 00:14:39,210 为好奇远古历史的游客担任向导 to visitors curious about the distant past. 277 00:14:39,260 --> 00:14:41,303 好 进来得小心低头 Right, I'm gonna mind the head coming in here. 278 00:14:41,353 --> 00:14:42,136 我要进入地下了 I'm going underground. 279 00:14:42,186 --> 00:14:44,330 - 很暗 也很粗糙 - Very dark, rough as well. 280 00:14:44,380 --> 00:14:45,714 - 哇 - Wow. 281 00:14:45,764 --> 00:14:48,084 太惊人的空间了 伊丽莎白 What an amazing space in here, Elizabeth. 282 00:14:48,134 --> 00:14:49,733 比我想象的要大得多 It's much bigger than I thought it was going to be. 283 00:14:49,783 --> 00:14:50,566 - 确实 - It is. 284 00:14:50,616 --> 00:14:52,411 从外面看会产生错觉 It's deceiving from the outside because 285 00:14:52,461 --> 00:极简14:54,529 进来时是在往地下走 when you come in, you're coming underground. 286 00:14:54,529 --> 00:14:55,435 - 嗯哼 - 从外部 - Uh-Huh. - From the outside, 287 00:14:55,435 --> 00:14:57,195 只能看到屋顶 you only see the roof. 288 00:15:00,851 --> 00:15:04,145 20年前 考古学家在博斯塔发掘出五处 20 years ago, archaeologists excavated five 289 00:15:04,195 --> 00:15:06,952 铁器时代屋舍 Iron Age houses at Bosta. 290 00:15:07,002 --> 00:15:09,749 我们正站在根据发掘的精确平面图 We're standing in a reconstruction based on 291 00:15:09,799 --> 00:15:13,563 重建的屋舍内 the exact floor plans of what was discovered. 292 00:15:13,613 --> 00:15:14,591 你认为铁器时代 And how many people do you think would have 293 00:15:14,591 --> 00:15:17,606 这屋里会住多少人？ been living in this house back in the Iron Age? 294 00:15:17,606 --> 00:15:20,125 - 我想每屋能舒适地住10到15人 - I'd imagine 10, 15 living comfortably in each house, 295 00:15:20,125 --> 00:15:22,167 或许更多 - 嗯哼 if not more. - Uh-huh. 296 00:15:22,167 --> 00:15:24,365 那应该是几代同堂的大家庭吧？ That would be, what, an extended family? 297 00:15:24,365 --> 00:15:26,151 - 就是大家庭 - The extended families. 298 00:15:26,151 --> 00:15:28,543 很可能三代人同住一屋 It could easily be three generations into one house. 299 00:15:28,543 --> 00:15:30,112 - 对 对 - 相当舒适 - Right, right. - Quite comfortably. 300 00:15:30,112 --> 00:15:32,379 孩子们睡在平台上 You'd have the children sleeping on the platforms. 301 00:15:32,379 --> 00:15:33,522 你上方就有个平台 Just above you, there's a platform. 302 00:15:33,522 --> 00:15:34,684 那些是床铺吗？ Are those the beds? 303 00:15:34,684 --> 00:15:35,895 还有梯子通上去 And the ladder going up. 304 00:15:35,895 --> 00:15:38,220 就寝时间一到 孩子们就被 So when it was bedtime, the children were 305 00:15:38,220 --> 00:15:40,606 安置到楼上 - 对 送上楼 put upstairs. - Put upstairs, yes. 306 00:15:40,606 --> 00:15:42,195 大人们就能围炉聊天 And then the adults could talk around the fire. 307 00:15:42,195 --> 00:15:45,026 - 我总想象他们探头张望 - I just think of them as peeping over, 308 00:15:45,026 --> 00:15:47,443 聆听古老传说 listening to the old stories. 309 00:15:49,336 --> 00:15:51,252 伊丽莎白大部分时间在此 Elizabeth spends much of her time here 310 00:15:51,252 --> 00:15:55,277 体验铁器时代的家庭生活 experimenting with Iron Age domestic life. 311 00:15:55,277 --> 00:15:59,055 她用泥炭火烹饪 甚至学习了 She has cooked over the peet fire and has even learned 312 00:15:59,055 --> 00:16:01,320 古老制陶技艺 ancient pottery skills. 313 00:16:01,320 --> 00:16:03,760 - 赫布里底制陶者会从 - With Hebridan pottery, they would get their 314 00:16:03,760 --> 00:16:05,637 河岸溪流采集岩石 clear and river banks streams, rocks 315 00:16:05,637 --> 00:16:06,921 黏土带回家后 and then the clay would be taken home 316 00:16:06,921 --> 00:16:08,732 反复揉搓至光滑 and then it was worked at until it got smooth 317 00:16:08,732 --> 00:16:10,504 黏土一旦光滑 and once the clay was smooth, 318 00:16:10,504 --> 00:16:11,754 就在转盘上盘筑成型 it would coil them on the wheel. 319 00:16:11,754 --> 00:16:12,587 - 明白 - Right. 320 00:16:12,587 --> 00:16:14,539 - 盘筑垒高后 - So coiling and building them up at bed 321 00:16:14,539 --> 00:16:16,174 静置晾干 and then leaving them to dry. 322 00:16:16,174 --> 00:16:18,387 采用坑烧法烧制 There would be fired by having a pitted side, 323 00:16:18,387 --> 00:16:20,780 将陶器放在泥炭火上 like the peet fire with the pots on top 324 00:16:20,780 --> 00:16:23,346 覆盖泥炭 煅烧数小时 cover the peet, leave in the fire for a number of hours, 325 00:16:23,346 --> 00:16:27,129 取出后趁陶器仍炽热 then take a nap and while the pots were still hot 326 00:16:27,129 --> 00:16:29,703 浸入牛奶 over the fire, they'd be put into milk, 327 00:16:29,703 --> 00:16:32,821 片刻 10到20秒 取出 just a bit, 10, 20 seconds, lifted it, 328 00:16:32,821 --> 00:16:34,789 待冷却 牛奶中的脂肪 left to cool and it's the fat of the milk 329 00:16:34,789 --> 00:16:37,010 渗透陶器 that steeps through the pot, 330 00:16:37,010 --> 00:16:38,401 形成防水涂层 giving them that water-pit coating. 331 00:16:38,401 --> 00:16:39,234 真的？ Really? 332 00:16:39,234 --> 00:16:40,067 这就是釉面？ That's the glaze? 333 00:16:40,067 --> 00:16:40,900 牛奶釉 - 这就是釉 Milk glaze. - That's the glaze. 334 00:16:40,900 --> 00:16:41,837 能防火吗？ And is it fireproof? 335 00:16:41,837 --> 00:16:42,932 可以放上泥炭火 You could put it on the pitfire. 336 00:16:42,932 --> 00:16:43,765 - 可以 - Yes. 337 00:16:43,765 --> 00:16:45,575 - 能烹饪 - 充分干燥后就行 - And it can cook. - After enough drying. 338 00:16:45,575 --> 00:16:47,144 - 太妙了 - 确实有效 - Wonderful. - And it does work. 339 00:极简16:47,144 --> 00:16:48,024 - 真神奇 - How amazing. 340 00:16:48,024 --> 00:16:49,682 令我叹服 Well, I very impressed. 341 00:16:49,682 --> 00:16:52,673 站在此地宛如穿越时空 Standing here is like going back in time. 342 00:16:52,673 --> 00:16:53,506 - 确实 - It is. 343 00:16:53,506 --> 00:16:54,838 - 回到铁器时代 - Back to the Iron Age. 344 00:16:58,123 --> 00:17:01,409 告别伊丽莎白 泥炭烟与往昔 Leaving Elizabeth, the peet smoke and the past behind, 345 00:17:01,409 --> 00:17:03,326 我离开博斯塔 I say farewell to Bosta 346 00:17:04,461 --> 00:17:06,403 南行至哈里斯岛 and head south to the island of Harris, 347 00:17:06,403 --> 00:17:11,085 沿着古老邮差路径前往雷尼格达尔 where I take the old postman's path to Reinigeadal. 348 00:17:11,085 --> 00:17:14,501 直至近代 哈里斯东海岸许多分散社区 Until quite recent times, many scattered communities 349 00:17:14,501 --> 00:17:17,451 仅能通过船只 along the east coast of Harris were only accessible 350 00:17:17,451 --> 00:17:19,811 或崎岖小径抵达 by boat or rough track. 351 00:17:19,811 --> 00:17:23,833 1990年 雷尼格达尔小村落 In 1990, the tiny township of Reinigeadal 352 00:17:23,833 --> 00:17:26,853 成为全英国最后 became the last place in the whole of Britain 353 00:17:26,853 --> 00:17:29,879 通公路的地方 to be connected to the road network. 354 00:17:29,879 --> 00:17:33,734 难以置信的是 直到1990年 It's amazing to think that until 1990, 355 00:17:33,734 --> 00:17:37,826 雷尼格达尔的学童仍每周两次 schoolkids from Reinigeadal would use this track 356 00:17:37,826 --> 00:17:42,372 沿此路去塔伯特上中学 twice a week to get to secondary school in Tarbert. 357 00:17:42,372 --> 00:17:44,707 这真是名副其实的"上学路" This was literally the school run 358 00:17:44,707 --> 00:17:48,361 冬季必定异常艰难 and it must've been horrendous in winter. 359 00:17:53,388 --> 00:17:56,753 如今这是一条幽灵之路 Today, this is a road of ghosts. 360 00:17:56,753 --> 00:17:58,155 行走小径间 我追随着 Walking the track, I'm following 361 00:17:58,155 --> 00:18:01,103 无数代岛民的足迹 in the footsteps of countless generations of islanders 362 00:18:01,103 --> 00:18:05,220 他们来自沿海多个已消失的社区 who came from several now lost communities along the coast. 363 00:18:05,220 --> 00:18:08,411 如马林加内什与盖尔莱特 Places like Malinganesh and Gaerletter, 364 00:18:08,411 --> 00:18:10,881 如今只剩凄凉的残垣断壁 reduced to a sad huddle of stones 365 00:18:10,881 --> 00:18:13,964 和地图上半被遗忘的名字 and half-remembered names on the map. 366 00:18:17,053 --> 00:18:20,501 徒步三小时后 我遇见肯尼·麦凯 After a three-hour hike, I meet up with Kenny MacKay. 367 00:18:20,501 --> 00:18:25,095 1990年新路开通前 肯尼是邮差 Until a new road opened in 1990, Kenny was the postman 368 00:18:25,095 --> 00:18:29,476 每周三次往返14英里路程 who made a 14-mile return trip three times a week. 369 00:18:29,476 --> 00:18:30,553 - 喜欢这趟步行吗？ - Did you enjoy the walk? 370 00:18:30,553 --> 00:18:31,689 - 非常喜欢 - I have, indeed. 371 00:18:31,689 --> 00:18:33,965 你当了多久邮差？ How long were you the postman for? 372 00:18:33,965 --> 00:18:34,798 - 30年 - 30 years. 373 00:18:34,798 --> 00:18:36,984 哦 真够久的 Oh yes, quite a lot, 374 00:18:36,984 --> 00:18:41,149 尤其天气晴好时 especially for when the weather was good. 375 00:18:41,149 --> 00:18:44,925 你能享受旅途 总能遇到有趣的人 You could enjoy it and always meet interesting people. 376 00:18:44,925 --> 00:18:46,290 嗯哼 Uh-Huh. 377 00:18:46,290 --> 00:18:48,896 邮差生涯中 肯尼累计 During his career as a postman, Kenny carried 378 00:18:48,896 --> 00:18:53,063 递送邮件总里程超过26000英里 the mail a total distance, in excess, of 26,000 miles. 379 00:18:54,631 --> 00:18:58,978 无论晴雨 邮件必须送达 Come rain or shine, the post had to get through. 380 00:18:58,978 --> 00:19:00,262 - 那时没有电话之类的 - There was no telephone or anything. 381 00:19:00,262 --> 00:19:02,531 邮差负责传递所有 There's a postman who took all the 382 00:19:02,531 --> 00:19:04,425 本地新闻到村里 local news into the village. 383 00:19:04,425 --> 00:19:05,327 - 嗯哼 - 是的 - Uh-Huh. - Yes. 384 00:19:05,327 --> 00:19:08,858 - 所以你就像个邮政电报员 - So you, you were like a sort of Post Telegraph. 385 00:19:08,858 --> 00:19:10,117 - 正是 - Exactly, yes. 386 00:19:10,117 --> 00:19:12,928 没有戏剧性事件 只有邮差 There was no drama, just the postman. 387 00:19:12,928 --> 00:19:14,253 那你一定深受社区 You must've been very well-known 388 00:19:14,253 --> 00:19:15,739 居民熟知吧 to the community, then. 389 00:19:15,739 --> 00:19:16,572 - 当然 - Oh, yes. 390 00:19:16,572 --> 00:19:17,690 - 大家都在这儿 - 是的 - All right here. - Yes. 391 00:19:17,690 --> 00:19:18,857 大家都会留意你的到来 They keep an eye open for you. 392 00:19:18,907 --> 00:19:20,581 - 只要不送账单 - As long as you didn't take any bills, 393 00:19:20,631 --> 00:19:21,464 你就很受欢迎 you were popular enough. 394 00:19:21,464 --> 00:19:22,297 - 没错 - Right. 395 00:19:23,566 --> 00:19:25,290 难以想象会有很多账单 Can't imagine there would be many bills. 396 00:19:25,290 --> 00:19:26,812 那时没有电费单吧？ There wouldn't have been any electricity bills, would there? 397 00:19:26,812 --> 00:19:27,828 - 没有 - No, no. 398 00:19:27,828 --> 00:19:30,193 商店服务就在下面 And the shop service was down there. 399 00:19:30,193 --> 00:19:33,656 用鸡蛋和特产以物易物 Would barter with eggs and treats and things. 400 00:19:33,656 --> 00:极简19:34,906 这里有过商店？ It was a shop here? 401 00:19:34,906 --> 00:19:36,974 - 是的 是商店兼仓库 - Yes, it was a shop and a store. 402 00:19:36,974 --> 00:19:37,961 - 真的？ - 对 - Really? - Yes. 403 00:19:37,961 --> 00:19:39,358 到底卖些什么？ What on earth did they sell? 404 00:19:39,358 --> 00:19:41,927 - 应有尽有 - 无所不包 - Everything. - Anything. 405 00:19:41,927 --> 00:19:42,889 - 一切商品 - Everything. 406 00:19:42,889 --> 00:19:44,437 是啊 Yeah. 407 00:19:44,437 --> 00:19:47,961 可能是靴子或一加仑酒 It might be boots or a gallon of liquor. 408 00:19:47,961 --> 00:19:51,243 这真是片蛮荒之地 his is a truly wild place 409 00:19:51,243 --> 00:19:55,063 人们并非自愿在此定居 and people didn't choose to settle this coast. 410 00:19:55,063 --> 00:19:56,510 他们是19世纪被地主 They were dumped here by 411 00:19:56,510 --> 00:19:59,174 抛弃于此的 their landlords in the 19th century. 412 00:19:59,174 --> 00:20:03,341 男女老幼 都被迫在此自生自灭 Men, women, children, the old and told to get on with it. 413 00:20:06,530 --> 00:20:08,430 - 哈里斯海岸曾遍布 - There were like wee villages 414 00:20:08,430 --> 00:20:11,230 小村落 all around the coast of Harris because 415 00:20:11,230 --> 00:20:13,655 清洗时期他们来到此地 they came here during the Clearences. 416 00:20:13,655 --> 00:20:16,430 除了努力谋生别无选择 They had no choice but try to make a living. 417 00:20:16,430 --> 00:20:20,230 必定极其艰难 因为这里 It must've been desperate because there's nowhere 418 00:20:20,230 --> 00:20:22,621 根本无处种植作物 to grow crops or anything here. 419 00:20:22,621 --> 00:20:24,781 - 是 这里一无所产 - No, there would be nothing here. 420 00:20:24,781 --> 00:20:28,190 仅仅是 挣扎求存 It was just a, a struggle to survive 421 00:20:28,190 --> 00:20:30,190 胜过其他一切 more than anything else. 422 00:20:31,462 --> 00:20:34,112 - 没有道路 挣扎便是绝望 - With no road, the struggle was hopeless. 423 00:20:34,112 --> 00:20:37,529 与世隔绝 社区最终消亡 Cut off, the communities eventually died. 424 00:20:39,422 --> 00:20:42,767 雷尼格达尔的村民 The same fate may well have befallen the villagers 425 00:20:42,767 --> 00:20:44,819 本可能遭遇同样命运 of Reinigeadal, where the postman's path 426 00:20:44,819 --> 00:20:48,236 邮差小径与1990年通车的新路在此交汇 meets the new road, which opened in 1990. 427 00:20:49,722 --> 00:20:52,854 这条路是生命线 及时保障了 It was a lifeline and arrived just in time to secure 428 00:极简20:52,854 --> 00:20:56,372 这个小村落的未来 the future of this little township. 429 00:20:59,859 --> 00:21:01,996 告别肯尼 我继续宏伟旅程 Leaving Kenny, I continue my grand tour 430 00:21:01,996 --> 00:21:06,163 前往终点站——斯卡尔佩岛 towards my final destination, the island of Scalpay. 431 00:21:10,117 --> 00:21:12,672 如同大贝尔纳拉 斯卡尔佩 Like Great Bernera, Scalpay is connected 432 00:21:12,672 --> 00:21:14,812 通过桥梁与长岛相连 to the long island by a bridge. 433 00:21:14,812 --> 00:21:17,628 这座桥尤为精美壮观 In this case, a rather fine and impressive one, 434 00:21:17,628 --> 00:21:19,961 横跨狭窄海峡 which spans the narrow Kyle. 435 00:21:21,316 --> 00:21:23,488 建桥之前 需要乘船 Before this bridge was built, you needed 436 00:21:23,488 --> 00:21:27,048 才能抵达斯卡尔佩 a boat to get to Scalpay and a wee ferry crossed 437 00:21:27,048 --> 00:21:30,568 小渡轮从下方滑道横渡海峡 the Kyle from a slipway just down there. 438 00:21:35,330 --> 00:21:37,822 转盘渡轮曾是苏格兰海岸 The turntable ferry was once a common sight 439 00:21:37,822 --> 00:21:41,457 常见景观 提供了一种风景如画 down the Scottish coast and provided a picturesque way 440 00:21:41,457 --> 00:21:43,889 前往岛屿目的地的方式 of getting to island destinations, 441 00:21:43,889 --> 00:21:46,056 但实在不便 but was hardly convenient. 442 00:21:48,039 --> 00:21:50,622 如今取代渡轮的桥梁 Today, the bridge that replaces the ferry 443 00:21:50,622 --> 00:21:53,400 连接着繁忙的小岛 connects a busy little island. 444 00:21:53,400 --> 00:21:56,751 斯卡尔佩面积两平方英里 建筑密集 At two mile square, Scalpay is fairly built up 445 00:21:56,751 --> 00:21:59,418 人口约300人 with a population of around 300. 446 00:22:00,589 --> 00:22:03,793 尽管佃农耕作始终是斯卡尔佩 Although crofting has always been an important part of life 447 00:22:03,793 --> 00:22:07,518 生活的重要部分 但多年来 here in Scalpay, for many years, much of the island's 448 00:22:07,518 --> 00:22:10,601 岛民主要收入源自海洋 income has been derived from the sea. 449 00:22:17,035 --> 00:22:19,654 20世纪初鲱鱼捕捞鼎盛时期 During the great herring fishing boon in the early years 450 00:22:19,654 --> 00:22:22,326 斯卡尔佩是繁忙的 of the 20th century, Scalpay was a busy 451 00:22:22,326 --> 00:22:26,476 国际港 船只 船员与渔家女 cosmopolitan place with boats, crews and fisher girls 452 00:22:26,476 --> 00:22:29,222 汇聚于此 音乐与歌谣 coming to an island where music and song 453 00:22:29,222 --> 00:22:31,971 在日常生活中扮演重要角色 played an important part in daily life, 454 00:22:32,021 --> 00:22:34,228 尤其在制作 especially in the production of the cloth 455 00:22:34,228 --> 00:22:37,561 群岛闻名遐迩的布料时：花呢 for which the islands are famous: tweed. 456 00:22:48,356 --> 00:22:50,562 莫拉格·麦克劳德热情召集了 Morag MacLeod has kindly gathered together 457 00:22:50,562 --> 00:22:52,970 斯卡尔佩的一些女士展示 some of the ladies of Scalpay to demonstrate 458 00:22:52,970 --> 00:22:56,134 "踩踏花呢"的古老传统 the ancient tradition of walking the tweed 459 00:22:56,134 --> 00:22:59,856 歌声伴随着布料处理工作 where songs accompanied the work of treating the cloth. 460 00:23:04,706 --> 00:23:08,023 这首歌是关于什么的 莫拉格？ What's the song all about, Morag? 461 00:23:08,023 --> 00:23:11,223 - 是首情歌 算情歌吧 - It's a love song, well you could call it a love song. 462 00:23:11,223 --> 00:23:14,002 歌词混合多样 最后一段 It's a mixture of text and the last verse 463 00:23:14,002 --> 00:23:17,008 克莉茜唱的是 渴望你带着 that Chrissy sings is, it's I'm longing for you to come 464 00:23:17,008 --> 00:23:21,217 皮基到来 我不太确定 with your peeky, now I'm not sure, it's-- 465 00:23:21,217 --> 00:23:23,249 - 听起来有点暧昧 - Sounds a bit lewd. 466 00:23:23,249 --> 00:23:24,236 - 不不 - No, no. 467 00:23:24,236 --> 00:23:27,328 是装威士忌的容器 It's a thing for carrying whiskey, 468 00:23:27,328 --> 00:23:29,717 作为订婚 which will be the drink for them to be 469 00:23:29,717 --> 00:23:31,148 的喜酒 to get betrothed. 470 00:23:31,148 --> 00:23:32,164 哦 这样 Oh, right. 471 00:23:32,164 --> 00:23:33,504 算是订婚酒 It's kind of a betrothal drink. 472 00:23:33,504 --> 00:23:35,873 - 对对 - 明白了 - Yes, yes. - Right. 473 00:23:35,873 --> 00:23:38,242 - 不知为何 我忍不住加入 - For some reason, I feel compelled to join in 474 00:23:38,242 --> 00:23:42,265 很乐意向斯卡尔佩的女士们 and I'm more than happy to prove my rhythmic prowess 475 00:23:42,265 --> 00:23:44,348 展示我的节奏天赋 to the ladies of Scalpay. 476 00:23:46,498 --> 00:23:47,480 为什么这么做？ Why are we doing this? 477 00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:49,683 捶打的意义是什么？ What's the point of this beating? 478 00:23:49,683 --> 00:23:50,963 - 让花更结实 - To strengthen the tweed. 479 00:23:50,963 --> 00:23:52,336 - 明白 - Right. 480 00:23:52,336 --> 00:23:55,893 - 要从32英寸缩到28英寸 - It's got to go from 32 inches to 28. 481 00:23:55,893 --> 00:23:57,043 - 真的？ - Really? 482 00:23:57,043 --> 00:23:59,680 所以需要捶打踩踏？ So it needs to be beaten and walked? 483 00:23:59,680 --> 00:24:02,022 - 是的 - 让花呢更紧密 - Yup. - To tighten out the tweed 484 00:24:02,022 --> 00:24:05,553 关键在保持节奏？ and it's all about keeping up the rhythm? 485 00:24:05,553 --> 00:24:07,002 - 对 - Yes. 486 00:24:07,002 --> 00:24:11,169 - 所以音乐天然适合这活动 - So that is partly why music lends itself to this activity. 487 00:24:12,392 --> 00:24:14,329 克莉茜 给我们唱一小段 So Chrissy, you're gonna give us a wee song. 488 00:24:14,329 --> 00:24:16,162 - 好 - 《渴望》 - Yeah. - The longings. 489 00:24:26,472 --> 00:24:28,077 踩踏传统源远流长 The walking tradition is an ancient one 490 00:24:28,077 --> 00:24:30,998 曾是女性专属领域 and it was firmly part of the female domain. 491 00:24:30,998 --> 00:24:33,593 让女性有机会交流近况 It gave women the opportunity to catch up, 492 00:24:33,593 --> 00:24:36,221 唱歌 讲故事 说笑话 to sing, tell stories and jokes, 493 00:24:36,221 --> 00:24:38,496 全然不受男性 all without the bothersome interference 494 00:24:38,496 --> 00:24:41,009 烦人干扰 这项集体活动 of their menfolk, a communal activity 495 00:24:41,009 --> 00:24:45,176 产出了闻名世界的织物 that produced the fabric that has become world famous. 496 00:24:46,094 --> 00:24:48,938 但这里编织的不止花呢 But it's not just tweed that's woven here. 497 00:24:48,938 --> 00:24:51,736 希拉·罗德里克是哈里斯编织工 Sheila Roderick is a Harris weaver. 498 00:24:51,736 --> 00:24:54,986 她专攻亚麻布 Her cloth of choice is linen and it's worn 499 00:24:54,986 --> 00:24:58,186 舞台与银幕的造梦者皆着此装 by dreamweavers of stage and screen. 500 00:24:58,186 --> 00:25:00,814 希拉 我熟悉哈里斯花呢 Sheila, I'm familiar with Harris tweed, 501 00:25:00,814 --> 00:25:02,876 羊毛制成 哈里斯编织 made from wool, woven in Harris. 502 00:25:02,876 --> 00:25:04,264 在斯卡尔佩何处 Where on Scalpay. 503 00:25:04,264 --> 00:25:06,256 这是你的作品 This has been woven by you. 504 00:25:06,256 --> 00:25:07,567 这是亚麻 This is linen. 505 00:25:07,567 --> 00:25:09,064 - 对 亚麻制成 - Yes, made of linen. 506 00:25:09,064 --> 00:25:11,696 比利时亚麻 用哈特斯利织机编织 Yes, a Belgium linen and it's made on a Hattersley loom. 507 00:25:11,696 --> 00:25:14,875 与哈里斯花呢制法完全相同 Made exactly the same way as Harris tweed, 508 00:25:14,875 --> 00:25:17,132 相同图案 相同工艺 一切相同 using the same patterns, same draughts, same everything, 509 00:25:17,132 --> 00:25:19,607 但用亚麻替代羊毛 but using linen instead of wool. 510 00:25:19,607 --> 00:25:22,357 - 希拉20年前受训为传统哈里斯花呢编织工 - Sheila trained as a traditional Harris Tweed weaver 511 00:25:22,357 --> 00:25:25,568 但后来开始尝试 20 years ago, but then began to experiment 512 00:25:25,568 --> 00:25:28,454 拓展创作领域 and extend her repertoire. 513 00:25:极简28,454 --> 00:25:31,174 - 我决定运用织机技艺 - I decided I would use my skills on the loom, 514 00:25:31,174 --> 00:25:33,518 寻找不同材料 and I would just look for something different 515 00:25:33,518 --> 00:25:35,620 进行编织 经过一番探讨 to weave and after, after a bit of discussion, 516 00:25:35,620 --> 00:25:38,070 决定尝试亚麻 I decided to go for linen. 517 00:25:38,070 --> 00:25:40,977 对亚麻一无所知 完全陌生 Knew nothing about linen at all, literally nothing. 518 00:25:40,977 --> 00:25:43,869 得去图书馆借阅亚麻书籍 I had to go to a library and take out a book about linen. 519 00:25:43,869 --> 00:25:46,062 此前甚至没见过亚麻布 I hadn't even seen a piece of linen before. 520 00:25:48,708 --> 00:25:52,362 - 这是编织亚麻的原材料 - This is the raw material that linen is woven from. 521 00:25:52,412 --> 00:25:53,414 这是亚麻 It's flax. 522 00:25:53,414 --> 00:25:57,600 最初像哈利波特的扫帚尾 It starts out looking like the end of Harry Potter's broom, 523 00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:01,168 经过捶打去除木质茎干后 but after being worked to pound down its woody stems, 524 00:26:01,168 --> 00:26:04,927 变成这些丝绸般美丽的纤维 it ends up as these beautiful silk-like fibers. 525 00:26:04,927 --> 00:26:06,550 简直像发丝一样 I mean, it's just like hair. 526 00:26:06,550 --> 00:26:07,698 像顶漂亮假发 It's like a beautiful wig. 527 00:26:07,698 --> 00:26:08,712 - 是啊 - Yeah, yeah. 528 00:26:08,712 --> 00:26:10,178 - 这就是金发的本源吧？ - This is the original flaxen hair, isn't it? 529 00:26:10,178 --> 00:26:11,230 - 金发 没错 - Flaxen hair, yeah. 530 00:26:11,230 --> 00:26:12,271 - 金发小姑娘 - 对 - Little flaxen-haired girl. - Yeah. 531 00:26:12,271 --> 00:26:13,734 - 曾有这样的发色 - 嗯嗯 - Had hair like this. - Mm-hmm, mm-hmm. 532 00:极简26:13,734 --> 00:26:17,286 - 难以置信两者的对比 - I can't believe, you know, the contrast between the two. 533 00:26:17,286 --> 00:26:18,685 这其实是同种材料 It's actually the same material. 534 00:26:18,685 --> 00:26:19,688 - 是的 - Yes, it is. 535 00:极简26:19,688 --> 00:26:20,669 - 经历了加工过程 - Having gone through a process. 536 00:26:20,669 --> 00:26:22,047 - 对 - Yes. 537 00:26:22,047 --> 00:26:24,594 - 希拉的纺织才华使她获得 - Sheila's talent with textiles has won her 538 00:26:24,594 --> 00:26:26,700 各大影视工作室 orders for her designs from 539 00:26:26,700 --> 00:26:29,078 的设计订单 major film and television studios. 540 00:26:29,078 --> 00:26:32,352 她的作品包括《战地情人》 Her credits include Captain Corelli's Mandolin, 541 00:26:32,352 --> 00:26:36,519 《卡萨诺瓦》《加勒比海盗》与《霍比特人》 Casanova, the Pirates of the Caribbean and The Hobbit. 542 00:26:38,267 --> 00:26:40,392 有登上银幕的 Do you have any samples that you can show me 543 00:26:40,392 --> 00:26:43,300 样品给我看看吗？ that have graced the silver screen? 544 00:26:43,300 --> 00:26:44,748 - 有 上面这件 - Yes, I've got one up here. 545 00:26:44,748 --> 00:26:46,986 这件灰色的 This is the gray one that's up here 546 00:26:46,986 --> 00:26:49,653 是《霍比特人》中甘道夫的长袍 is Gandalf's robe in The Hobbit. 547 00:26:50,918 --> 00:26:52,262 - 真的？ - 那个项目我们提供了 - Really? - That, we did a lot 548 00:26:52,262 --> 00:26:53,547 大量亚麻 of linen for that. 549 00:26:53,547 --> 00:26:55,260 - 像是儿童裹尸布 - Something like the children's shroud. 550 00:26:55,260 --> 00:26:56,493 - 尸布 - 对 - Shroud. - Yes. 551 00:26:56,493 --> 00:26:59,194 - 用一块布制成 - Out of a piece of cloth. 552 00:26:59,194 --> 00:27:01,390 可能稍作修改 - 效果很好 Maybe slightly. - It worked quite well. 553 00:27:01,390 --> 00:27:04,168 那是我们参与过的 It was, at most, it was the biggest production 554 00:27:04,168 --> 00:27:07,912 最大制作 我必须说 that we've actually been in and I did a huge amount 555 00:27:07,912 --> 00:27:09,888 为此提供了大量材料 of material for it, I have to say. 556 00:27:09,888 --> 00:27:11,706 - 有霍比特粉丝来这儿吗？ - Do you get Hobbit fans coming here? 557 00:27:11,706 --> 00:27:14,489 - 从没有过 - No, never had a Hobbit fan. 558 00:27:14,489 --> 00:27:17,478 - 现在或许会有一两个了 - Well, you might get one or two later on now, I think. 559 00:27:17,478 --> 00:27:18,311 - 是的 - Yes. 560 00:27:20,474 --> 00:27:21,502 - 能摸摸吗？ - Can I touch it? 561 00:27:21,502 --> 00:27:23,893 - 可以触摸 - Yes, you may touch it. 562 00:27:23,893 --> 00:27:25,390 - 我要摸摸 - I'm going to touch. 563 00:27:25,390 --> 00:27:26,393 触摸霍比特 Touch the Hobbit. 564 00:27:26,393 --> 00:27:27,810 - 甘道夫的长袍 - Gandalf's gown. 565 00:27:28,760 --> 00:极简27:29,593 哇 Wow. 566 00:27:30,912 --> 00:27:34,329 斯卡尔佩离明星光环如此之近 It's so close to stardom here on Scalpay. 567 00:27:35,184 --> 00:27:37,529 谁曾想见？ Who would've thought? 568 00:27:41,235 --> 00:27:43,256 告别希拉和她美丽的亚麻布 Leaving Sheila and her beautiful linen, 569 00:27:43,256 --> 00:27:46,811 我买了足够做夹克的布料走出屋外 I buy enough cloth for a jacket and head back outside 570 00:27:46,811 --> 00:27:50,561 攀登斯卡尔佩并不高的最高山 to climb Scalpay's not very high highest hill 571 00:27:51,671 --> 00:27:55,838 从全新视角欣赏这座迷人岛屿 to get a fresh perspective of this fascinating island. 572 00:27:58,127 --> 00:27:59,708 哇 Wow. 573 00:27:59,708 --> 00:28:02,250 这小山上的景色绝佳 The view from this wee hill are truly superb. 574 00:28:02,250 --> 00:28:05,134 下方隐约可见连接 Down there, you can just make out the bridge 575 00:28:05,134 --> 00:28:07,367 斯卡尔佩与哈里斯的桥梁 connecting Scalpay to Harris 576 00:28:07,367 --> 00:28:09,744 雾中矗立着克里舍姆山 and through the mist is Clisham, 577 00:28:09,744 --> 00:28:12,426 西部群岛的最高峰 the highest mountain in the western isles 578 00:28:12,426 --> 00:28:15,859 下方是著名的灯塔 and down there is the famous lighthouse, 579 00:28:15,859 --> 00:28:18,154 赫布里底首座灯塔 the first ever to be built in the Hebrides. 580 00:28:18,154 --> 00:28:22,237 四周大小岛屿星罗棋布 And all around are islands, both great and small, 581 00:28:23,097 --> 00:28:26,700 使这座不起眼的小山成为 making this unassuming hill the perfect spot 582 00:28:26,700 --> 00:28:28,450 我伟大之旅的完美终点 to end my grand tour. 583 00:28:32,324 --> 00:28:35,868 下段旅程将北上设得兰群岛 My next grand tour takes me north to Shetland, 584 00:28:35,868 --> 00:28:37,464 我将横跨 where I'll be traveling across 585 00:28:37,464 --> 00:28:39,964 群岛自西向东行进 the islands from west to east.