﻿1
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位于西北海岸的群岛
The islands that lie off

2
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西北岛北乌伊斯特沿岸
the coast of North Uist in the Western Isles

3
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形成了狭长海道与浅滩交织的迷宫
form a labyrinth of narrow sea channels and shallow water.

4
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- 各种暗藏的危险就在水面之下
- All kinds of hazards lie just beneath the surface

5
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等待着粗心的航海者
to catch the unwary mariner.

6
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礁石、暗岩、险滩、沙洲
Reefs, submerged rocks, scaries, sandbanks,

7
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让这片海岸的航行宛若解谜
make navigating this coast a bit like solving a riddle,

8
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一场沙海之谜
the riddle of the sands.

9
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我正继续史诗般的跳岛之旅
I'm continuing my epic island hopping odyssey

10
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试图揭开苏格兰诸多
trying to unravel the of the secrets

11
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最迷人地域的奥秘
of some of Scotland's most fascinating places.

12
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并邂逅当地居民
And meeting the people who live here.

13
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- 但我习惯坐头等舱了 唐纳德
- But I'm used to traveling first class, Donald.

14
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这就是头等舱！
This is first class!

15
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- 我看这是统舱吧
- I think this is steerage.

16
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想要精确统计
It's impossible to be precise

17
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散布在苏格兰狂野海岸
about the total number of islands

18
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周边的岛屿总数绝无可能
that are scattered around Scotland's untameable coast.

19
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但若不计众多礁石与险滩
But not counting the numerous rocks and scaries,

20
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数量远超过250座
it's well over 250.

21
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- 码头尽头
- The end of the jetty.

22
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有只牧羊犬驾驶的小车
A little vehicle

23
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载我们上岸
driven by a collie dog to take us to shore.

24
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这次宏伟旅程中
On this grand tour,

25
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我正沿北乌伊斯特穿行
I'm threading a course around North Uist.

26
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探访些最不为人知的绝美之地
Visiting some of its least known and beautiful locations.

27
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我的旅程走向外赫布里底群岛
My journey takes me a to a cluster of islands

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的一片岛群
in the outer Hebrides.

29
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紧邻北乌伊斯特海岸的
Lying just off the North Uist coast,

30
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是尊贵的伯纳雷岛 我由此启程
is princely Berneray where my journey begins.

31
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由此向南 捕捉格里姆塞的斑斓
From there, I head south to capture the colors of Grimsay.

32
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再穿梭于柯基博斯特的滨草丛
And then weave through the marram grass of Kirkibost.

33
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终至荒芜的威士忌岛屿帕贝
To end on the deserted whiskey island of Pabbay.

34
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还有什么地方比这迷人海滩
And where better to begin my meandering island sojourn

35
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更适合开启蜿蜒岛居之旅呢
than on this stunning beach.

36
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- 伯纳雷岛 有时亦称伯纳拉
- The island of Berneray, or Bernera as it's sometimes

37
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切莫与其他岛屿混淆
known should never be confused with other islands

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比如路易斯岛上的大伯纳拉
like Great Bernera up in Lewis.

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或巴拉黑德的伯纳雷 甚至小伯纳拉
Or Berneray down at Barrahead or even little Bernera.

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这些岛基本同名
All these islands have basically the same name.

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意为"熊岛"
Which means Bear Island.

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想必往昔岁月里
So back in the past, I imagine,

43
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此地曾有众多熊出没
there must have been a lot of bears hereabouts.

44
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说来蹊跷 因这里并无森林
Which is odd, really, because there are no woods.

45
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无论有熊与否
Bears or not,

46
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这都是座美得惊人的岛屿
this is an astonishingly beautiful island.

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而构成西湾的绵长沙滩
And the great sweep of sand that makes up the west bay

48
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堪称其冠上明珠
is the jewel in its crown.

49
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这明珠曾被泰国旅游局盗用
And one, that was stolen by the Thai tourist board.

50
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他们用这青绿海水与白沙的照片
They used a photograph of these turquoise seas

51
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来宣传泰国海滩
and white sands to promote beaches in Thailand.

52
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厚颜无耻！
The cheek!

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伯纳雷岛约有150位居民
Berneray is home to around 150 people.

54
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据信自青铜时代
And it's thought to have been inhabited

55
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就有人居住
since the Bronze age.

56
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但其众多子民中
But none of its many sons and daughters

57
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无人能及1825年在此出生的安格斯·麦卡斯基尔
achieved the stature of Angus Macaskill born here in 1825.

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- 安格斯是十个孩子之一
- Angus was one of 10 children.

59
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他出生时被视为
But when he was born, he was considered to be well,

60
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家族中最弱小者 因他瘦小孱弱
the runt of the pack because he was so small and scrawny.

61
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事实上他父母曾担忧
In fact, his parents were worried that he might not

62
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他可能无法活到成年
survive into adulthood.

63
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但出乎意料且令人欣喜的是
But instead, to their surprise and delight,

64
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安格斯不断长高 不断长高
Angus grew and he grew and he grew

65
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直至他赤足身高达到惊人的
until he stood a staggering seven feet

66
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七英尺九英寸（约2.36米）
nine inches in his stockinged feet.

67
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与此处为标记其出生地所立铁罐
The same height as this can that's been erected

68
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高度相同
to mark his birth place.

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成年后的安格斯成为
Now, when he grew up, Angus became

70
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苏格兰史上最高之人
the tallest Scotsman ever to have lived.

71
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举家移民新斯科舍省后
The family emigrated to Nova Scotia.

72
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安格斯加入P.T.巴纳姆马戏团
And Angus joined P.T. Barnum circus

73
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与世上最矮小的拇指将军
appearing with one of the world's smallest men,

74
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同台演出
General Tom Thumb.

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安格斯被誉为世上最高的真巨人
Angus was hailed as the world's tallest true giant.

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以惊人力量著称
Renowned for incredible feats of strength.

77
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例如将船锚提至齐胸高
Such as lifting a ship's anchor chest high.

78
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- 谨向高个子安格斯脱帽致敬
- So I tip my hat in tall Angus' direction.

79
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当他在温莎城堡
When he performed for Queen Victoria

80
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为维多利亚女王表演时
at Windsor Castle,

81
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女王宣称他是踏入宫殿的
she declared him the tallest, stoutest, and strongest man

82
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最高大最强壮之人
ever to have entered the palace.

83
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穿越伯纳雷岛途中
As I make my way across Berneray,

84
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显然传统岛居生活方式
it's apparent that the traditional island way of life

85
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对许多人依然存在
still exists for many.

86
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你可能仍会因农夫驱羊过岛
You might still find your progress slowed

87
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而放缓行程
by crofters moving sheep across the island.

88
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赶羊的时候没法把避让处
Can't really use passing place

89
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当普通通道用吧？
as a conventional way when you're driving sheep, can you?

90
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是啊
No.

91
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若1987年你被羊群堵在路上
If you were caught behind a flock of sheep

92
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或许会瞥见
her in 1987, you may well have spotted

93
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一张著名面孔在驱赶它们
a very famous face driving them.

94
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当人们发现王位继承人
Berneray was thrust into the spotlight

95
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曾秘密居住岛上时
of international press

96
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伯纳雷岛顿时成为国际媒体
attention when it was discovered that the heir to the throne

97
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关注的焦点
had been living secretly on the island.

98
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仿若《王子与贫儿》的奇闻版本
In a bizarre twist, on the prince on the pauper story,

99
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查尔斯王子化身农夫
prince Charles became a crofter

100
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学习切泥炭、挖土豆、翻羊技巧
and learned how to cut peat, lift potatoes, and tip sheep.

101
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他视此经历为灵感源泉
He found the experience inspirational.

102
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并将所学大量运用于
And used much of what he learned

103
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构建自己的有机农业理念
to form his own philosophy on organic farming.

104
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秉承同样精神
So in the same spirit,

105
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我将体验查尔斯王子式的
I'm going to do my own prince Charles lifestyle

106
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沉浸生活 参与伯纳雷牧羊人
immersive thingie and help out with a long standing

107
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延续已久的传统
traditional for the shepherds of Berneray.

108
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- 嘿 过来！
- Hey, come here!

109
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过来
Come here.

110
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这些羊正被送往
These sheep are being taken to their summer

111
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夏季牧场
grazing grounds.

112
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但抵达过程所需心力
But getting them there involves a little more effort

113
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远超想象
than you might expect.

114
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这些农夫即将开启
These crofters are about to make a trip

115
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深具伯纳雷年度传统的行程
which is very much an annual Berneray tradition.

116
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自人们记忆所及之处
For as long as anyone can remember,

117
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伯纳雷牧羊人便驱赶羊群
the shepherds of Berneray have moved their flocks

118
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至邻近岛屿放牧
to graze on one of the nearby islands.

119
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为亲历与数十只羊
So to find out what it takes to go to sea

120
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共航的滋味
with several dozen sheep,

121
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我加入了唐纳德·麦克莱恩
I'm joining the crew.

122
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率领的队伍
Headed up by Donald MacLean.

123
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你在数羊吗？
Are you counting them?

124
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- 正在数呢
- I was counting them, yes.

125
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我常梦见数羊
I count them in my sleep usually.

126
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- 今晚你得数羊了
- You'll be counting them tonight.

127
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今晚你得数羊了
You'll be counting them tonight.

128
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但我习惯坐头等舱了 唐纳德
But I'm used to traveling first class, Donald.

129
00:07:10,064 --> 00:07:11,463
这就是头等舱
This is first class.

130
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- 我看这是统舱
- I think this is steerage.

131
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惊人的是它们相对平静
It's amazing because they are relatively calm.

132
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我是说...
I mean...

133
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- 一旦跟上节奏
- Once you get on the pace.

134
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- 羊群聚集时就会安静下来
- What's they're in a flock they kind of calm down,

135
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它们在一起时
they're together.

136
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- 它们很乖
- No, they're good.

137
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会安定下来
They get settled.

138
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若一只跳过去 全会跟着跳
If one jumps over, they'll all jump over.

139
00:07:27,589 --> 00:07:28,541
- 问题就在这
- That's the problem.

140
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真会这样？
Would they really?

141
00:07:29,589 --> 00:07:30,701
- 是的
- Yes.

142
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在伯纳雷这样的小岛
On a small island like Berneray,

143
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土地极为珍贵
lands comes at a premium.

144
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必须物尽其用
And hast to be put to the best possible use.

145
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因此附近无人岛为羊群提供了
So nearby uninhabited islands provide good grazing

146
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夏季优质牧场
for the sheep over the summer.

147
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我们前往东南五英里处的奥帕赛岛
We're headed for Opasay, just five miles southeast of here.

148
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唐纳德无数次走过这段行程
Donald's made this journey countless times

149
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面对乘客的难以预测却异常镇定
and seems remarkable calm given the unpredictable nature

150
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令人称奇
of his passengers.

151
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- 羊终究是羊 从无定数
- Sheep being sheep, it never works the same

152
00:07:58,089 --> 00:07:59,057
因为某天
two days because

153
00:07:59,107 --> 00:08:02,499
你可能得亲手把每只羊推上船
one day, you might have to handle every one of them aboard.

154
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隔天可能一只都不用
The next day, you might not get any of them.

155
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它们会自己跑上来
They'll just run aboard.

156
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- 直接上船
- Just straight on board.

157
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- 对 算是...
- Yeah, sort of...

158
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- 它们都自有主意？
- And they all have minds of their own?

159
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- 非常难以预测
- They're very unpredictable.

160
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这是家族事业
This is a family business.

161
00:08:12,787 --> 00:08:16,954
对唐纳德的叔叔尼尔而言 这是条熟悉的路
And for Donald's uncle Neil, it's a familiar journey.

162
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- 尼尔 你跑这航线多久了？
- Neil, how long have you been making this crossing?

163
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- 70年
- 70 years.

164
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- 不会吧
- Never.

165
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70年？
70 years?

166
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- 不止
- And more.

167
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嗯 差不多70年
Well, just about 70.

168
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想必经历了不少风雨
Bet you've seen some weather, though.

169
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- 嗯 好坏都有
- Oh, good and bad.

170
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若遇狂风暴雨
It's difficult to land on the island

171
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登陆岛屿会很困难
if it's windy and stormy.

172
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这段35年前的影像
This film was made 35 years ago

173
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展现了这段航程何等艰难
and shows just how challenging this journey can be.

174
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庆幸我们无需应对风雪
Thankfully, we don't have snow to contend with.

175
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目前天气尚好
And so far, the weather has held.

176
00:08:59,930 --> 00:09:03,680
但我们自有挑战要面对
But we do have challenges of our own to face.

177
00:09:09,142 --> 00:09:10,739
- 引擎过热了？
- The engine's over heating?

178
00:09:10,789 --> 00:09:11,736
- 非常烫
- It's very hot.

179
00:09:11,786 --> 00:09:13,296
- 温控器出问题了
- So the thermostat's wrong.

180
00:09:13,346 --> 00:09:14,737
- 我不确定
- Well, I don't know.

181
00:09:14,787 --> 00:09:18,623
- 因为这是我听懂的另一句盖尔语
- 'Cause that's the other bit of the Gaelic I understood.

182
00:09:18,673 --> 00:09:22,423
问题还不止于此
And that's not our only problem.

183
00:09:44,458 --> 00:09:47,627
多亏唐纳德和船员的快速反应
Thanks to Donald and his crew's speedy response,

184
00:09:47,677 --> 00:09:51,312
这小家伙安全回船
this little guy is safely back on board.

185
00:09:51,362 --> 00:09:52,368
- 那只羔羊在游泳
- He was swimming, that lamb.

186
00:09:52,418 --> 00:09:53,751
是啊
Yeah.

187
00:09:58,498 --> 00:10:00,086
现在该处理
Now, time to sort out that

188
00:10:00,136 --> 00:10:01,969
引擎的小问题了
little engine problem.

189
00:10:04,077 --> 00:10:05,947
岛民们始终
Ever resourceful,

190
00:10:05,997 --> 00:10:09,747
需掌握多种技能
our island crofters have to be multi skilled.

191
00:10:10,904 --> 00:10:12,694
稍作思索后
After a bit of head scratching,

192
00:10:12,744 --> 00:10:16,411
唐纳德很快找到问题根源
Donald soon gets to the root of the problem.

193
00:10:17,480 --> 00:10:19,980
我们再度启航
And we're back underway again.

194
00:10:21,042 --> 00:10:22,227
刚才公海上演了惊险一幕
We had some drama in the high seas there,

195
00:10:22,277 --> 00:10:23,254
怎么回事？
what was going on?

196
00:10:23,304 --> 00:10:24,087
- 这个
- That.

197
00:10:24,137 --> 00:10:24,920
- 所以你发现了这个
- So you had that.

198
00:10:24,970 --> 00:10:25,753
堵住了
That was blocking.

199
00:10:25,803 --> 00:10:26,586
- 是它堵住的
- That was blocking it.

200
00:10:26,636 --> 00:10:27,552
在滤器里
That was in the filter.

201
00:10:27,602 --> 00:10:28,385
- 所以是堵塞了
- So you had a blockage.

202
00:10:28,435 --> 00:10:29,218
- 就是它堵的
- And it was blocking.

203
00:10:29,268 --> 00:10:31,330
海面浮着的无浪花海水
Just sea without surf, floating.

204
00:10:31,380 --> 00:10:33,932
可能来自启航前的港口
Probably in that harbor before we left.

205
00:10:33,982 --> 00:10:35,612
- 现在听着螺旋桨的振动声
- Very reassuring having those vibrations of poo rams

206
00:10:35,662 --> 00:10:37,511
安心多了
going beneath now.

207
00:10:37,561 --> 00:10:39,667
- 希望这次没问题了
- Yes, so hopefully this is it now.

208
00:10:39,717 --> 00:10:41,010
- 但愿如此
- Yeah, well, fingers crossed.

209
00:10:41,060 --> 00:10:42,690
- 但愿如此
- Fingers crossed.

210
00:10:42,740 --> 00:10:43,717
- 话说早了
- Spoke too soon.

211
00:10:43,767 --> 00:10:44,600
- 是啊
- Aye.

212
00:10:46,724 --> 00:10:49,079
挤在50只羊中间
Being wedged in amongst 50 sheep

213
00:10:49,129 --> 00:10:51,351
确有好处
does have its advantages.

214
00:10:51,401 --> 00:10:53,794
当浪涌增强时 至少
When the swell picks up, at least I've got something

215
00:10:53,844 --> 00:10:55,011
有东西可抓
to hold on to.

216
00:10:59,481 --> 00:11:00,688
- 今日风势较强
- This wind's a bit stronger today

217
00:11:00,738 --> 00:11:03,308
登岛条件不理想
so our landing on the island is not ideal.

218
00:11:03,358 --> 00:11:06,588
到那儿再看情况
We'll see what it's like when we get there.

219
00:11:06,638 --> 00:11:07,612
快到了
Won't be long now.

220
00:11:07,662 --> 00:11:08,607
嗯
No.

221
00:11:08,657 --> 00:11:12,845
除非再有羔羊跳船
Unless another lamb jumps over the side.

222
00:11:12,895 --> 00:11:13,852
它们能闻到陆地气息
I think they can smell the land.

223
00:11:13,902 --> 00:11:16,402
开始兴奋了
They're getting quite excited.

224
00:11:18,798 --> 00:11:19,751
万幸
Thankfully,

225
00:11:19,801 --> 00:11:23,551
能干的水手将我们安全送达奥帕赛岛
our very able seamen get us safely to Opasay.

226
00:11:25,198 --> 00:11:27,304
我感觉乘客们
And I get the impression that our passengers

227
00:11:27,354 --> 00:11:31,521
急于登上暑期度假岛
are keen to disembark at their summer holiday island.

228
00:11:45,225 --> 00:11:49,225
就在它们即将安然登陆时
But just as it looks as if they're home and dry.

229
00:11:50,318 --> 00:11:53,485
唐纳德再次投入行动
Donald has to swing into action again.

230
00:12:02,163 --> 00:12:03,356
总有意外
There's always one.

231
00:12:03,406 --> 00:12:06,573
翻过羊群 该死的家伙
Over the sheep, bloody one.

232
00:12:08,859 --> 00:12:10,034
剩余工作
All that's left to do

233
00:12:10,084 --> 00:12:11,630
就是冲洗甲板
Is to swab the decks

234
00:12:11,680 --> 00:12:15,347
随后前往下一目的地
before making my way to my next destination.

235
00:12:20,521 --> 00:12:22,156
潮汐岛格里姆塞
The tidal island of Grimsay

236
00:12:22,206 --> 00:12:26,373
位于流沙滩与海闸交织的迷宫中
lies in a maze of shifting sand banks and sea locks.

237
00:12:27,876 --> 00:12:29,292
它通过众多堤道之一
It's linked to North Uist

238
00:12:29,342 --> 00:12:31,291
与北乌伊斯特相连 这些堤道
by one of the many causeways that connect

239
00:12:31,341 --> 00:12:33,591
将岛屿链系在一起
this island chain together.

240
00:12:37,225 --> 00:12:39,031
我既徒步旅行
Since I'm traveling on foot,

241
00:12:39,081 --> 00:12:40,620
又逢退潮时分
and the tide is low,

242
00:12:40,670 --> 00:12:43,735
宁愿自行穿行沙地
I prefer to make my own way across the sands.

243
00:12:43,785 --> 00:12:46,055
这也让我有时间品味
Which also gives me time to reflect

244
00:12:46,105 --> 00:12:49,188
此地迷人特质
on the alluring nature of this place.

245
00:12:50,279 --> 00:12:51,958
无论是海洋的色彩
Whether it's the color of the sea

246
00:12:52,008 --> 00:12:53,671
还是光影的质感
or the quality of the light,

247
00:12:53,721 --> 00:12:57,888
众多艺术家从此地风光获得灵感
many artists have been inspired by this landscape.

248
00:13:09,156 --> 00:13:11,175
这些惊艳水彩画出自
These stunning watercolors are the work

249
00:13:11,225 --> 00:13:14,642
著名美国艺术家罗德·埃文斯之手
of acclaimed US based artist, Rhod Evans.

250
00:13:16,441 --> 00:13:18,578
这是奥诺雷湖
This is loch honoray,

251
00:13:18,628 --> 00:13:20,972
非常幽静安宁
it's very secluded, very quiet.

252
00:13:21,022 --> 00:13:23,372
是我喜欢在晴日来
And it's one of these places I like to come

253
00:13:23,422 --> 00:13:25,074
写生的地方之一
and sketch on a good day.

254
00:13:25,124 --> 00:13:26,551
罗德带我来此
Rhod has brought me here

255
00:13:26,601 --> 00:13:29,909
上风景画大师课
for a master class in landscape painting.

256
00:13:29,959 --> 00:13:30,913
- 我带了铅笔
- I've got my pencil.

257
00:13:30,963 --> 00:13:31,900
好的
Right.

258
00:13:31,950 --> 00:13:34,328
我通常先确定地平线
I normally start by finding a horizon

259
00:13:34,378 --> 00:13:37,575
决定其位置
and deciding where to put the horizon.

260
00:13:37,625 --> 00:13:40,367
倾向于快速勾勒
I tend to sketch quite rapidly.

261
00:13:40,417 --> 00:13:44,447
我擅长速写而非细节刻画
I'm a scribbler rather than a detail person.

262
00:13:44,497 --> 00:13:46,031
你去过很多岛屿吧
So you've been to a lot of islands,

263
00:13:46,081 --> 00:13:47,025
不是吗？
haven't you not?

264
00:13:47,075 --> 00:13:48,494
- 是的
- Yeah.

265
00:13:48,544 --> 00:13:52,591
这些年来 我的职业大概带我去过...
Over the years, I suppose my career has taken me to...

266
00:13:52,641 --> 00:13:54,287
因为我实际从事的是保育管理
'cause was a conservation manager

267
00:13:54,337 --> 00:13:56,254
这份工作
is what I actually did.

268
00:13:57,239 --> 00:13:58,890
这份工作带你去过各个岛屿吗？
Was that a job that took you to islands?

269
00:13:58,940 --> 00:14:02,111
是的 我想我可能有种情结
Yeah, well, I think I probably had a thing.

270
00:14:02,161 --> 00:14:04,767
至今仍对岛屿怀有特殊情感
I still have a bit of a thing about islands.

271
00:14:04,817 --> 00:14:08,047
- 你何时学习水彩画技艺的？
- When did you learn the art of watercolor painting?

272
00:14:08,097 --> 00:14:09,871
- 完全自学
- Totally self taught.

273
00:14:09,921 --> 00:14:13,887
浪费了本该用于...
Misspent time when I should have been...

274
00:14:13,937 --> 00:14:15,187
数鸟的时间
Counting birds.

275
00:14:20,439 --> 00:14:23,071
这些年来我做的一件事就是
One of the things I've done over the years is

276
00:14:23,121 --> 00:14:26,730
花费大量时间进行色彩实验
hours and hours and hours of experiments with colors.

277
00:14:26,780 --> 00:14:29,030
深入了解色彩
Getting to know the colors.

278
00:14:29,959 --> 00:14:31,247
非常透彻地
Really well.

279
00:14:31,297 --> 00:14:33,209
哪些颜色可调和
What mixes together.

280
00:14:33,259 --> 00:14:35,346
哪些会混成浊色
What makes absolute mud.

281
00:14:35,396 --> 00:14:37,807
我快调出浊色了
I'm verging on the mud.

282
00:14:37,857 --> 00:14:41,130
- 若你想到艺术家
- If you think about an artist.

283
00:14:41,180 --> 00:14:42,373
人们总说
People say, oh,

284
00:14:42,423 --> 00:14:45,247
我画不出应有的效果
I can't get it to look like it's meant to look.

285
00:14:45,297 --> 00:14:47,109
但重点不在于此 对吧？
But it isn't about that, is it?

286
00:14:47,159 --> 00:14:49,514
部分在于场景本身
It's partly, it's about the scene.

287
00:14:49,564 --> 00:14:52,613
也部分在于你的感受
It's partly about how you feel as well.

288
00:14:52,663 --> 00:14:54,010
当你创作时
When you're doing it,

289
00:14:54,060 --> 00:14:56,970
可能寒冷 可能烦躁
so you might be cold, you might be cranky.

290
00:14:57,020 --> 00:15:00,047
就可能画出潦草笔触
And then you might do slashing kind of marks.

291
00:15:00,097 --> 00:15:01,680
之字形或其他
Zig zags, whatever.

292
00:15:03,180 --> 00:15:06,453
若你感觉更宁静平和
Whereas if you're feeling more serene and cool,

293
00:15:06,503 --> 00:15:10,591
就会画出柔和的水彩效果
you do a very soft watercolor sort of thing.

294
00:15:10,641 --> 00:15:12,388
若你感到有些力不从心...
Or if you're feeling vaguely incompetent like...

295
00:15:13,985 --> 00:15:15,766
画面就显得斑驳
It all looks a bit blotchy.

296
00:15:15,816 --> 00:15:17,311
- 最终 我的意思是
- Eventually, I mean,

297
00:15:17,361 --> 00:15:19,354
人们开始喜欢你的作品
people get to like your stuff

298
00:15:19,404 --> 00:15:23,571
你会意识到自己的创作其实不错
and you realize that actually what you're doing is okay.

299
00:15:24,940 --> 00:15:26,149
完全沉浸其中 对吧？
It's totally absorbing, isn't it?

300
00:15:26,199 --> 00:15:27,530
是的
It is.

301
00:15:27,580 --> 00:15:30,447
若能找到某件
I mean, if you can find something whatever it is,

302
00:15:30,497 --> 00:15:32,751
让你全心投入的事
that you get really absorbed in,

303
00:15:32,801 --> 00:15:35,749
那大概是最好的疗愈方式
I think that's probably the best therapy there is.

304
00:15:35,799 --> 00:15:38,767
无论是钓鱼或其他
Whether it's fishing or whatever

305
00:15:38,817 --> 00:15:41,407
需要全神贯注的活动
that totally takes all your concentration.

306
00:15:41,457 --> 00:15:42,924
我觉得这比钓鱼好因为
I think this is better than fishing because

307
00:15:42,974 --> 00:15:44,372
总有成果
you've always got result.

308
00:15:44,422 --> 00:15:47,087
我多次钓鱼空手而归
I spend many days fishing, come home with nothing.

309
00:15:47,137 --> 00:15:48,469
- 没错 确实
- Yeah, true that.

310
00:15:48,519 --> 00:15:49,436
深有体会
Been there.

311
00:15:50,961 --> 00:15:53,906
通常最后用刀
Generally, just finish off.

312
00:15:53,956 --> 00:15:58,771
轻轻刮擦完成画作
A sketch with just a little bit of scratching with a knife.

313
00:15:58,821 --> 00:15:59,775
用刀刮擦？
Scratching with a knife?

314
00:15:59,825 --> 00:16:00,773
- 是的
- Yeah.

315
00:16:00,823 --> 00:16:01,823
刮出痕迹
Scratch out.

316
00:16:02,860 --> 00:16:03,813
哦明白了
Oh I see.

317
00:16:03,863 --> 00:16:04,890
白色部分
The white bits.

318
00:16:04,940 --> 00:16:05,887
像这样？
See, like that?

319
00:16:05,937 --> 00:16:07,566
简直像破坏行为
Almost looks like vandalism.

320
00:16:07,616 --> 00:16:09,007
是啊
Yeah.

321
00:16:09,057 --> 00:16:10,127
我挺满意这效果
I'm quite pleased with that.

322
00:16:10,177 --> 00:16:11,130
是的
Yeah.

323
00:16:11,180 --> 00:16:12,233
本以为会搞砸
I thought it was gonna be disaster.

324
00:16:12,283 --> 00:16:14,366
我喜欢你营造出的
I like the way you've sort of made it

325
00:16:14,416 --> 00:16:15,966
环形剧场般的效果
into a amphitheater.

326
00:16:16,016 --> 00:16:18,031
某种程度上确实如此
'Cause in a way, that's what it is.

327
00:16:18,081 --> 00:16:21,727
你的画有深度和氛围感
Yours has got depth and atmosphere.

328
00:16:21,777 --> 00:16:23,493
- 我想这只是
- Well, I suppose it's just,

329
00:16:23,543 --> 00:16:25,551
更像是一种印象...
it's very much an impression of the...

330
00:16:25,601 --> 00:16:26,806
大海的印象
Of the sea.

331
00:16:26,856 --> 00:16:28,212
几乎没什么细节
There's not much detail there at all.

332
00:16:28,262 --> 00:16:29,887
- 我筋疲力尽了
- Well, I'm exhausted.

333
00:16:29,937 --> 00:16:32,015
精神透支
Mentally draining.

334
00:16:32,065 --> 00:16:35,046
确实 因为需要高度专注
Absolutely 'cause it takes so much attention.

335
00:16:35,096 --> 00:16:37,679
你会如此全神贯注
And you're so focused.

336
00:16:42,337 --> 00:16:43,871
继续旅程时
As I continue my journey,

337
00:16:43,921 --> 00:16:46,069
我新培养的艺术眼光
my newly developed artistic eye

338
00:16:46,119 --> 00:16:49,429
被点缀风景的几座
is drawn to several picturesque thatched cottages

339
00:16:49,479 --> 00:16:51,396
别致茅草屋吸引
that dot the landscape.

340
00:16:52,257 --> 00:16:56,095
曾几何时 每家每户都是这种屋顶
At one time, every home would've had this kind of roof.

341
00:16:56,145 --> 00:16:58,367
但现代建筑技术与材料
But modern building techniques and materials

342
00:16:58,417 --> 00:17:01,667
使茅草屋顶几乎绝迹
made the thatched roof almost obsolete.

343
00:17:02,641 --> 00:17:05,934
但近来它们有所复兴
Recently however, they've enjoyed a bit of a revival.

344
00:17:05,984 --> 00:17:10,149
茅草匠的技艺重获关注
And the skill of the thatcher has been rediscovered.

345
00:17:10,199 --> 00:17:14,991
我正与尼尔·尼科尔森评估他的新项目
I'm joining Neil Nicholson to size up his latest project.

346
00:17:15,041 --> 00:17:16,763
- 这是很老的屋顶
- Yeah, this is a very old roof, this one.

347
00:17:16,813 --> 00:17:18,469
最古老的结构仍在
Has stood on the oldest in newest.

348
00:17:18,519 --> 00:17:20,852
上面加盖过茅草
And it's been over thatched.

349
00:17:22,140 --> 00:17:24,307
现在我们要基本
And now we're basically gonna

350
00:17:24,357 --> 00:17:28,110
大幅剥离 恢复到基础层
strip it back a lot, taking it back to the basic layers.

351
00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:29,951
即最初铺设的
Which went on originally,

352
00:17:30,001 --> 00:17:30,784
可能已超过100年
which is probably over 100 years now.

353
00:17:30,834 --> 00:17:31,724
- 开玩笑吧？
- You're kidding?

354
00:17:31,774 --> 00:17:32,713
- 真的
- Yeah, yeah.

355
00:17:32,763 --> 00:17:35,194
- 所以你有100年的茅草层
- So you've got a 100 years of thatching going on.

356
00:17:35,244 --> 00:17:36,447
- 我能看出...
- Yeah, I can see the...

357
00:17:36,497 --> 00:17:39,109
过去百年有哪些茅草匠
What kind of thatchers we had last 100 years.

358
00:17:39,159 --> 00:17:41,247
- 这些层就像历史记录
- All these layers are kind of like history, really.

359
00:17:41,297 --> 00:17:42,249
回溯过去
You're going back,

360
00:17:42,299 --> 00:17:43,247
有点像考古
it's a bit like archaeology.

361
00:17:43,297 --> 00:17:44,250
- 确实如此
- It is, yes, yeah.

362
00:17:44,300 --> 00:17:46,191
你要用这个替换它
And you're gonna replace it with this.

363
00:17:46,241 --> 00:17:48,473
- 需要多少材料 尼尔
- Now how much of this stuff, Neil,

364
00:17:48,523 --> 00:17:51,484
才能重铺那小屋的屋顶？
are you gonna need to rethatch that wee cottage?

365
00:17:51,534 --> 00:17:53,711
- 大概两足球场的量
- I would say roughly two football budges.

366
00:17:53,761 --> 00:17:54,709
- 那可真不少
- That's a hell of a lot.

367
00:17:54,759 --> 00:17:55,791
两足球场？
Two football budges?

368
00:17:55,841 --> 00:17:57,450
- 需要大量草料
- It's a lot of grass, yeah.

369
00:17:57,500 --> 00:17:59,290
这是滨草
This is marram grass.

370
00:17:59,340 --> 00:18:01,749
按所需量采集
And sourcing it in the kind of quantities needed

371
00:18:01,799 --> 00:18:04,632
并非易事
isn't as easy as you might expect.

372
00:18:08,540 --> 00:18:10,431
我们正前往尼尔能采集
We're heading to a place where Neil can gather

373
00:18:10,481 --> 00:18:13,247
这种特殊建材的地方
this very special building material.

374
00:18:13,297 --> 00:18:16,214
潮汐小岛柯基博斯特
The tiny tidal island of Kirkibost.

375
00:18:18,599 --> 00:18:19,993
- 这段海岸真壮观
- This is an amazing stretch of coast,

376
00:18:20,043 --> 00:18:21,647地势很低 对吧？
it's so low lying, isn't it?

377
00:18:21,697 --> 00:18:23,311
是的
It is, yeah.

378
00:18:23,361 --> 00:18:24,490
- 海水不需太多
- It wouldn't take too much of the sea

379
00:18:24,540 --> 00:18:26,250
就能淹没整个区域
to encroach all the way across.

380
00:18:26,300 --> 00:18:27,349
- 确实
- No, it wouldn't.

381
00:18:27,399 --> 00:18:28,671
这里潮汐作用很强
It's very tidal here.

382
00:18:28,721 --> 00:18:30,869
若你留意沙洲
So if you care for sand banks.

383
00:18:30,919 --> 00:18:32,836
潮汐能塑造它们
The tide can make them,

384
00:18:34,300 --> 00:18:35,967
正在退潮所以...
the tides turning so...

385
00:18:36,017 --> 00:18:37,423
- 剩余空间不多了吧？
- Haven't got much clearance here, have you?

386
00:18:37,473 --> 00:18:38,991
- 是的 我们...
- No, we would...

387
00:18:39,041 --> 00:18:40,047
你几乎能站在这水里
You could almost stand up in this.

388
00:18:40,097 --> 00:18:41,050
- 差不多
- You could nearly.

389
00:18:41,100 --> 00:18:42,949
那里有一米深
It's a meter there.

390
00:18:42,999 --> 00:18:44,207
退潮时这里
In a low tide this dries out

391
00:18:44,257 --> 00:18:45,311
几乎完全露出 对吧？
almost completely, doesn't it?

392
00:18:45,361 --> 00:18:46,309
确实如此
It does, yes.

393
00:18:46,359 --> 00:18:48,192
真神奇
It's amazing.

394
00:18:49,719 --> 00:18:51,749
这就是滨草场
So this is the marram grass fields.

395
00:18:51,799 --> 00:18:54,393
在这里长势很好
Grows really well here.

396
00:18:54,443 --> 00:18:55,776
- 没有围墙 是的
- No wall, yeah.

397
00:18:57,020 --> 00:18:59,390
传统收割这种草的方式
The traditional way of harvesting this grass

398
00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:01,588
是用长柄镰刀
is with a scythe.

399
00:19:01,638 --> 00:19:05,221
但尼尔有更强大的工具
But Neil has something a bit more powerful.

400
00:19:11,095 --> 00:19:13,280
修剪草坪是一回事
Now mowing the lawn is one thing.

401
00:19:13,330 --> 00:19:16,324
修剪海滩则另当别论
But mowing a beach is quite another.

402
00:19:16,374 --> 00:19:18,309
这机器引擎强劲
This has a powerful engine.

403
00:19:18,359 --> 00:19:22,026
刀片锋利 操作者却经验不足
Sharp blades, and an inexperienced operator.

404
00:19:27,655 --> 00:19:29,029
尼尔
Neil.

405
00:19:29,079 --> 00:19:30,266
尼尔！
Neil!

406
00:19:30,316 --> 00:19:31,509
我遇到麻烦了
I've got a problem.

407
00:19:31,559 --> 00:19:33,146
噪音也很大
It's also noisy.

408
00:19:33,196 --> 00:19:37,363
尼尔听不见我愈发绝望的求救声！
So Neil can't hear my increasingly desperate cries for help!

409
00:19:38,417 --> 00:19:39,667
- 我停不下来！
- I can't stop!

410
00:19:42,415 --> 00:19:43,582
我筋疲力尽了！
I'm exhausted!

411
00:19:44,864 --> 00:19:46,229
- 你得控制住它
- You've gotta take control of it.

412
00:19:46,279 --> 00:19:47,845
- 是啊 太累人了
- Yeah, that's knackering.

413
00:19:47,895 --> 00:19:50,978
你确定用镰刀不会更容易？
You sure it isn't easy with a scythe?

414
00:19:54,257 --> 00:19:55,327
收获禾捆后
Bringing in the sheaves,

415
00:19:55,377 --> 00:19:59,167
现在该进行真正的工作了
it's now time to get down to the real task.

416
00:19:59,217 --> 00:20:03,384
修复这座迷人老屋的屋顶
Restoring the roof of this delightful old cottage.

417
00:20:05,415 --> 00:20:07,349
- 屋顶用的茅草
- The parridge for the roof.

418
00:20:07,399 --> 00:20:08,899
清理它 梳理它
Clean it, pull it.

419
00:20:09,895 --> 00:20:11,395
放置到位
Place it in place.

420
00:20:13,516 --> 00:20:14,349
一种工具
A tool.

421
00:20:15,255 --> 00:20:17,887
基本上就是把它们固定在那里
So basically stick them there

422
00:20:17,937 --> 00:20:19,841
直到我认为它在屋顶上牢固为止
until I think it's staying right on the roof.

423
00:20:19,891 --> 00:20:22,085
- 所以你只是把它插进草皮里？
- So you're just sticking it into basically turf, huh?

424
00:20:22,135 --> 00:20:23,125
- 插进去 是的
- Into, yeah.

425
00:20:23,175 --> 00:20:24,168
- 这就是全部的固定方式了
- So that's all that's anchoring it.

426
00:20:24,218 --> 00:20:25,429
- 你是把它缝进去
- You're sowing it into it.

427
00:20:25,479 --> 00:20:26,873
你想试试放一些吗？
So do you wanna try put some in?

428
00:20:26,923 --> 00:20:27,898
- 我试试
- I'll try.

429
00:20:27,948 --> 00:20:29,961
我来试一下
I'll have a wee shot.

430
00:20:30,011 --> 00:20:32,340
- 耙子保持角度
- Fork with the angle.

431
00:20:32,390 --> 00:20:33,997
推推推推
Push push push push.

432
00:20:34,047 --> 00:20:34,880
向外
Out to.

433
00:20:37,180 --> 00:20:38,132
就这样
And that's it.

434
00:20:38,182 --> 00:20:39,322
你想看看你插的位置
And you wanna see where you,

435
00:20:39,372 --> 00:20:40,900
把它塞下去
tuck it down.

436
00:20:40,950 --> 00:20:42,218
你想看看是否太短
You wanna see if it's short.

437
00:20:42,268 --> 00:20:45,258
如果太短 你可以往回拉一点
If it's short what you can do, you pull it back a wee bit.

438
00:20:45,308 --> 00:20:46,458
这样应该可以了
That should be fine.

439
00:20:46,508 --> 00:20:47,508
- 很好很好
- Nice nice.

440
00:20:50,412 --> 00:20:53,119
这材料非常脆弱 是吧？
It is amazingly flimsy material, isn't it?

441
00:20:53,169 --> 00:20:54,878
当你想到这里的风...
When you think of the wind that you...

442
00:20:54,928 --> 00:20:57,418
常与乌伊斯特联系在一起
So often associate with with Uist.

443
00:20:57,468 --> 00:20:59,620
你会觉得它都会被吹走
You think it's all gonna blow away.

444
00:20:59,670 --> 00:21:02,692
- 我想这就是防护网起大作用的地方
- I guess that's what netting makes a big difference.

445
00:21:02,742 --> 00:21:04,138
然后用一些巨大的石头
And then you anchor the whole thing down with some

446
00:21:04,188 --> 00:21:05,194
压住整个结构
muffle great stones.

447
00:21:05,244 --> 00:21:06,744
- 就是这样 是的
- That's it, yeah.

448
00:21:09,142 --> 00:21:10,088
完成了
That's it.

449
00:21:10,138 --> 00:21:11,098
很有成就感 对吧？
It's quite satisfying, isn't it?

450
00:21:11,148 --> 00:21:12,258
- 是的 非常满足
- Yeah, it's very satisfying.

451
00:21:12,308 --> 00:21:13,871
学习新技能很棒
It was great to learn new skills.

452
00:21:13,921 --> 00:21:15,290
确实是的
It is, yes.

453
00:21:15,340 --> 00:21:18,270
- 完成这个要花你多长时间？
- How long is it gonna take you to do this?

454
00:21:18,320 --> 00:21:19,274
今天能完成多少？
How much would you get done today?

455
00:21:19,324 --> 00:21:22,336
- 这个角落我花了差不多一整天
- This corner I did up in like one day, full day.

456
00:21:22,386 --> 00:21:23,460
- 所以你有一 二 三
- So you got one, two, three,

457
00:21:23,510 --> 00:21:25,391
你觉得要三周工作量？
you got three weeks work, you think?

458
00:21:25,441 --> 00:21:26,397
- 是的 大概吧
- Yeah, roughly, yeah.

459
00:21:26,447 --> 00:21:27,459
天气允许的话
Weather permitting.

460
00:21:27,509 --> 00:21:29,738
- 粗略估算一下
- Quick calculation.

461
00:21:29,788 --> 00:21:31,962
可惜我无法帮助尼尔
Unfortunately, I won't be able to help Neil

462
00:21:32,012 --> 00:21:33,460
完成这项工作
finish the job.

463
00:21:33,510 --> 00:21:35,834
因为我要再次出海
Because I'm setting out to sea again.

464
00:21:35,884 --> 00:21:37,898
这次是沿着西海岸
This time heading around the west coast

465
00:21:37,948 --> 00:21:40,479
前往我的最终目的地
to my final destination.

466
00:21:40,529 --> 00:21:43,279
无人居住的帕贝岛
The uninhabited island of Pabbay.

467
00:21:50,444 --> 00:21:52,618
- 我们正在接近帕贝岛
- So we're approaching Pabbay.

468
00:21:52,668 --> 00:21:54,534
这里有个小码头
Got a wee jetty here.

469
00:21:54,584 --> 00:21:56,218
码头尽头
And at the end of the jetty,

470
00:21:56,268 --> 00:22:00,268
有只牧羊犬驾驶的小车
there's a little vehicle driven by a collie dog.

471
00:22:01,329 --> 00:22:02,932
载我们上岸
To take us to shore.

472
00:22:02,982 --> 00:22:04,556
狗狗似乎还带了
And the dog appears to have brought

473
00:22:04,606 --> 00:22:06,106
几个人类一起来
some humans along.

474
00:22:09,009 --> 00:22:09,926
- 嗨 各位
- Hi, guys.

475
00:22:11,697 --> 00:22:12,970
我们到了
So here we are.

476
00:22:13,020 --> 00:22:16,133
第一次踏上帕贝岛
Setting foot on Pabbay for the first time.

477
00:22:16,183 --> 00:22:17,711
很高兴认识你
Really nice to meet you.

478
00:22:17,761 --> 00:22:19,839
这是我在岛上的向导
This is my guide on the island.

479
00:22:19,889 --> 00:22:23,018
雷蒙德·坎贝尔管理着
Raymond Campbell manages these three square miles

480
00:22:23,068 --> 00:22:25,759
这三平方英里的牧场
mostly pasture land.

481
00:22:25,809 --> 00:22:28,810
庆幸的是 是他而不是那只狗
And thankfully he, and not just the dog

482
00:22:28,860 --> 00:22:31,060
来负责驾驶
will be doing the driving.

483
00:22:31,110 --> 00:22:33,018
- 雷蒙德 岛上真绿啊
- So Raymond, it's so green on the island.

484
00:22:33,068 --> 00:22:35,199
看起来简直像个高尔夫球场
It looks almost like a golf course.

485
00:22:35,249 --> 00:22:37,722
让我觉得你一定有一队非常尽责的
Makes me think you must have a team of very conscientious

486
00:22:37,772 --> 00:22:39,599
草坪维护员在辛勤工作
green keepers hard at work.

487
00:22:39,649 --> 00:22:41,460
- 是的 我们有
- Yes, we do that.

488
00:22:41,510 --> 00:22:42,836
牧羊人
Sheep keepers.

489
00:22:42,886 --> 00:22:44,015
哦 你有牧羊人？
Oh, you got sheep keepers?

490
00:22:44,065 --> 00:22:45,018
是的
Yes.

491
00:22:45,068 --> 00:22:46,319
所以是羊群让草地
So you got sheep keeping the grass

492
00:22:46,369 --> 00:22:49,034
保持如此短促整洁
so cropped and neat looking.

493
00:22:49,084 --> 00:22:51,476
是的 有700头
Yes, got 700.

494
00:22:51,526 --> 00:22:53,331
700头 对小岛来说很多了
700, that's a lot for a small island.

495
00:22:53,381 --> 00:22:54,714
是的
Yes.

496
00:22:56,006 --> 00:22:57,556
帕贝岛已无人居住
Pabbay has been uninhabited

497
00:22:57,606 --> 00:23:00,159
超过150年了
for more than 150 years.

498
00:23:00,209 --> 00:23:02,533
但随着我对岛屿的深入了解
But it's clear as I see more of the island,

499
00:23:02,583 --> 00:23:06,312
这里曾是个繁荣的地方
that this was once a thriving place.

500
00:23:06,362 --> 00:23:08,055
我能看到这里的废墟
I can see all the ruins here.

501
00:23:08,105 --> 00:23:09,658
房屋 没剩下多少了
The houses, not much left on them.

502
00:23:09,708 --> 00:23:10,730
不 不多了
No, no.

503
00:23:10,780 --> 00:23:11,756
那一定是个村庄
That must be a village.

504
00:23:11,806 --> 00:23:13,232
是的 巴拉纳基亚
Yes, Balanakia.

505
00:23:13,282 --> 00:23:14,065
巴拉纳基亚
Balanakia.

506
00:23:14,115 --> 00:23:14,898
是的
Yes.

507
00:23:14,948 --> 00:23:16,833
凭我粗浅的盖尔语知识
Well, I reckon by my rudimentary knowledge

508
00:23:16,883 --> 00:23:18,415
这名字意思是
of Gaelic, that would mean

509
00:23:18,465 --> 00:23:20,031
教堂之村 对吗？
the village of the church, would it?

510
00:23:20,081 --> 00:23:21,913
是的 就是那个 对的
Yes, that's the one, yeah.

511
00:23:21,963 --> 00:23:22,931
那边是教堂吗？
Is that the church over there?

512
00:23:22,981 --> 00:23:24,276
是的 你能看到教堂 对的
Yes, you can see the church, yeah.

513
00:23:24,326 --> 00:23:25,576
太好了
Great.

514
00:23:29,228 --> 00:23:30,799
事实上 在鼎盛时期
In fact, at its height,

515
00:23:30,849 --> 00:23:32,495
这里有三个村庄
there were three villages here.

516
00:23:32,545 --> 00:23:35,615
一座城堡 一座古老的小教堂
A castle, an ancient chapel, and a population

517
00:23:35,665 --> 00:23:36,832
人口近300
of nearly 300.

518
00:23:39,265 --> 00:23:40,218
- 回头见
- See you later.

519
00:23:40,268 --> 00:23:41,232
- 再见 保罗
- See you, Paul.

520
00:23:41,282 --> 00:23:42,115
- 谢谢
- Cheers.

521
00:23:46,529 --> 00:23:48,650
中世纪时 强大的麦克劳德氏族
In the middle ages, the powerful clan MacLeod

522
00:23:48,700 --> 00:23:51,631
掌控着赫布里底群岛大部分地区
held sway of a much of the Hebrides.

523
00:23:51,681 --> 00:23:55,112
而帕贝岛（盖尔语中意为"祭司之岛"）
And Pabbay which means priest island in Gaelic

524
00:23:55,162 --> 00:23:57,679
是他们的主要据点之一
was one of their principle strongholds.

525
00:23:57,729 --> 00:24:00,756
麦克劳德族人深爱此地
And the MacLeods loved it here.

526
00:24:00,806 --> 00:24:01,973
我明白为何
I can see why.

527
00:24:05,422 --> 00:24:07,774
帕贝岛的重要性不仅在于
It wasn't just Pabbay's strategic position

528
00:24:07,824 --> 00:24:11,658
它在哈里斯沙洲的战略位置
in the sand Harris that made it important.

529
00:24:11,708 --> 00:24:14,762
还因其土壤极其肥沃
The soil was also extremely fertile.

530
00:24:14,812 --> 00:24:17,062
物产丰饶
And the harvests bountiful.

531
00:24:18,262 --> 00:24:20,042
- 对麦克劳德族而言不幸的是
- Unfortunately for the MacLeods,

532
00:24:20,092 --> 00:24:24,159
他们的死敌麦克唐纳族也想占据帕贝岛
the sworn enemies, the MacDonalds wanted a piece of Pabbay

533
00:24:24,209 --> 00:24:25,492
据为己有
for themselves.

534
00:24:25,542 --> 00:24:28,292
决定袭击该岛
And decided to attack the island.

535
00:24:29,686 --> 00:24:32,796
在一个决定性的日子 两族在此
And on a fateful day, the two clans met

536
00:24:32,846 --> 00:24:34,330
展开激战
in a terrible battle.

537
00:24:34,380 --> 00:24:36,479
战役就发生在这
Which took place right here along the banks

538
00:24:36,529 --> 00:24:38,172
甜谷河畔
of the sweet barn.

539
00:24:38,222 --> 00:24:41,972
麦克唐纳族被屠杀殆尽
Now the MacDonalds were slaughtered to a man.

540
00:24:47,628 --> 00:24:49,875
几乎无法想象曾发生在此的
It's almost impossible to imagine the bloodshed

541
00:24:49,925 --> 00:24:52,196
血腥场面
that happened right here.

542
00:24:52,246 --> 00:24:54,010
尤其在今天这样的日子
Especially on a day like today,

543
00:24:54,060 --> 00:24:55,757
这里仿佛凝聚着
which somehow seems to epitomize

544
00:24:55,807 --> 00:24:58,676
宁静祥和的精髓
the essence of peace and tranquility.

545
00:24:58,726 --> 00:25:02,893
但岛屿总是充满表象与现实的落差
But then again, islands have always been deceptive.

546
00:25:06,125 --> 00:25:07,611
并非氏族战争导致
It wasn't clan warfare

547
00:25:07,661 --> 00:25:09,716
帕贝岛最后一批居民
that eventually saw the last of Pabbay's residents

548
00:25:09,766 --> 00:25:10,933
于1846年离开
leave in 1846.

549
00:25:13,665 --> 00:25:17,652
事实上 岛屿与居民曾繁荣发展
In fact, the island and its people were thriving.

550
00:25:17,702 --> 00:25:20,479
他们盛产小麦 燕麦
They were growing an abundance of wheat, oats,

551
00:25:20,529 --> 00:25:22,279
当然还有大麦
and of course barley.

552
00:25:23,169 --> 00:25:26,655
那是生产威士忌的主要原料
That was the main ingredient in the production of whiskey.

553
00:25:26,705 --> 00:25:30,735
帕贝岛民对此尤为热衷
Something which the Pabbay folk were rather fond of.

554
00:25:30,785 --> 00:25:33,722
尽管政府稽查员多次试图
And despite repeated attempts by government inspectors

555
00:25:33,772 --> 00:25:36,218
抓捕现行
to catch them in the act,

556
00:25:36,268 --> 00:25:39,700
他们仍生产了大量威士忌
they produced barrel loads of the stuff.

557
00:25:39,750 --> 00:25:42,816
为了解这如何导致最终衰亡
To hear how this would lead to the eventual demise,

558
00:25:42,866 --> 00:25:45,620
我拜访了雷蒙德的父亲肯·坎贝尔
I meet up with Raymond's father, Ken Campbell,

559
00:25:45,670 --> 00:25:49,060
他的家族与岛屿渊源深厚
whose family have a long connection with the island.

560
00:25:49,110 --> 00:25:52,314
- 肯尼斯 这是片美丽肥沃的土地
- Kenneth, it's a beautiful fertile island here.

561
00:25:52,364 --> 00:25:56,110
历史上 帕贝岛因土壤肥沃
Historically, Pabbay's been a very important island

562
00:25:56,160 --> 00:25:57,738
曾是重要岛屿
because of its rich soil.

563
00:25:57,788 --> 00:25:58,738
- 确实如此
- Yes indeed.

564
00:25:58,788 --> 00:26:02,298
曾被誉为丰收宝库
Yes it was known as the galini of harvest.

565
00:26:02,348 --> 00:26:05,095
尤其因其生产的谷物
Especially for the grain that it produced

566
00:26:05,145 --> 00:26:07,140
用于酿造威士忌
for the making of whiskey.

567
00:26:07,190 --> 00:26:11,001
税务官四处巡查
The exciseman was on the go, you know.

568
00:26:11,051 --> 00:26:13,860
他们到处追查人们
And they were chasing people here there and out.

569
00:26:13,910 --> 00:26:16,180
好不容易来到帕贝岛
And managed to get to Pabbay but,

570
00:26:16,230 --> 00:26:20,138
船夫与他们有约定
the boatman had an arrangement with them.

571
00:26:20,188 --> 00:26:21,892
特殊信号
Special sale.

572
00:26:21,942 --> 00:26:24,116
若他载着税务官
If he had the exciseman on board.

573
00:26:24,166 --> 00:26:26,712
所以船夫载税务官来这时？
So the boatman bringing the exciseman here?

574
00:26:26,762 --> 00:26:27,710
- 是的
- Yes.

575
00:26:27,760 --> 00:26:28,778
他与当地居民串通
And he was in cahoots with the folk here.

576
00:26:28,828 --> 00:26:29,956
所以他警告他们
So he'd won them.

577
00:26:30,006 --> 00:26:31,140
- 是的
- Yes yes.

578
00:26:31,190 --> 00:26:32,817
他的方法是
And that was his way of doing it

579
00:26:32,867 --> 00:26:35,756
使用不同颜色的船帆
in all different color sail.

580
00:26:35,806 --> 00:26:39,599
- 若他升起黄帆 意味着...
- If he was certainly had a yellow sail up, it meant...

581
00:26:39,649 --> 00:26:41,098
我船上有税务官
I've got an exciseman on board.

582
00:26:41,148 --> 00:26:43,498
- 是的 这就是预警
- Yeah, warning was then.

583
00:26:43,548 --> 00:26:44,820
于是他们藏起来
So he was hidden away.

584
00:26:44,870 --> 00:26:49,037
但换船夫后他们就被抓了
But they were caught when they decide to change the boatman.

585
00:26:49,990 --> 00:26:51,137
- 所以被当场抓获
- So caught red handed.

586
00:26:51,187 --> 00:26:52,420
- 当然被抓了
- Of course he had.

587
00:26:52,470 --> 00:26:54,075
之后情况就变了
And things changed then and.

588
00:26:54,125 --> 00:26:55,972
- 他们被驱逐 因为
- They were evicted because they were,

589
00:26:56,022 --> 00:26:58,557
被定罪或涉嫌参与
convicted of or suspected of being involved

590
00:26:58,607 --> 00:26:59,818
非法贸易
in this illicit trade.

591
00:26:59,868 --> 00:27:00,932
- 贸易 是的
- Trade, yeah.

592
00:27:00,982 --> 00:27:04,836
我猜当局想将这里改为牧场
I suppose they wanted to turn into a sheep farmer.

593
00:27:04,886 --> 00:27:07,199
当时正值潮流
And when luck was the trend,

594
00:27:07,249 --> 00:27:08,836
如今牧场负债累累
whereas it's debts on these days,

595
00:27:08,886 --> 00:27:10,553
当时却非如此
sheep farms are not.

596
00:27:16,148 --> 00:27:19,616
可悲的是 这是司空见惯的故事
Sadly, it's an all too familiar story.

597
00:27:19,666 --> 00:27:22,996
当我告别肯和巴拉纳基亚废墟时
And as I leave Ken and the ruins of Balelingi,

598
00:27:23,046 --> 00:27:25,952
我思索着其中的讽刺：赫布里底的悲怆历史
I consider the irony of how the painful history

599
00:27:26,002 --> 00:27:28,474
常以壮丽美景
of the Hebrides is so often set against

600
00:27:28,524 --> 00:27:30,941
为背景展开
a wildly beautiful back drop.

601
00:27:34,164 --> 00:27:37,933
我正缓步攀登贝内卡宁山顶
I'm making the gentle climb to the summit of Benekarnin.

602
00:27:37,983 --> 00:27:40,458
仅约600英尺高
It's only about 600 feet high.

603
00:27:40,508 --> 00:27:42,592
但这是我的终极目的地
But it's my final destination.

604
00:27:42,642 --> 00:27:46,392
也是反思旅程的理想之地
And the ideal place to reflect on my journey.

605
00:27:47,782 --> 00:27:49,295
- 我们到了
- So here we are.

606
00:27:49,345 --> 00:27:51,295
帕贝岛之巅
The summit of Pabbay.

607
00:27:51,345 --> 00:27:53,658
贝内卡宁石冢
The cairn of Benekarnin.

608
00:27:53,708 --> 00:27:55,070
我必须说
Where I have to say

609
00:27:55,120 --> 00:27:58,287
景色令人叹为观止
the views are absolutely breathtaking.

610
00:27:59,900 --> 00:28:03,274
从这里可纵览哈里斯沙洲全貌
You can see the whole sweep of the sand of Harris from here.

611
00:28:03,324 --> 00:28:04,831
点缀着让航行变得艰难
Studded with the wee islands

612
00:28:04,881 --> 00:28:06,733
的诸多小岛
that make navigation so difficult.

613
00:28:06,783 --> 00:28:08,596
今日晴好 我甚至能望见
It's actually clear enough for me today to see

614
00:28:08,646 --> 00:28:11,979
45英里外的圣基尔达岛
all the way to St. Kilder 45 miles away.

615
00:28:13,761 --> 00:28:16,234
这真是绝佳之地
This really is a perfect place.

616
00:28:16,284 --> 00:28:18,175
饱览美景
To drink in the view.

617
00:28:18,225 --> 00:28:19,338
也提示我
Which is a cue for me

618
00:28:19,388 --> 00:28:21,775
小酌一杯
to have a wee drink for myself.

619
00:28:21,825 --> 00:28:24,174
细品令帕贝岛
A wee sensation to remind me

620
00:28:24,224 --> 00:28:27,114
昔日闻名的滋味
of what once made Pabbay famous.

621
00:28:27,164 --> 00:28:27,997
祝健康
Slancha.

622
00:28:33,462 --> 00:28:35,194
欢迎加入我的下一次伟大旅程
Join me on my next grand tour

623
00:28:35,244 --> 00:28:38,111
我将跨越海峡
when I'll be bridging the gap and traveling

624
00:28:38,161 --> 00:28:39,911
从斯凯岛到斯卡佩岛
from Skye to Scalpay.