1 00:00:02,429 --> 00:00:03,973 有一片群岛 There's a group of islands 2 00:00:04,023 --> 00:00:06,753 位于不列颠本土的最北端 lying to the far north of mainland Britain 3 00:00:06,803 --> 00:00:10,596 既像苏格兰又像斯堪的纳维亚 that’s as much Scandinavian as Scottish. 4 00:00:10,646 --> 00:00:14,723 他们悬挂自己的旗帜，拥有独特的语言 They fly their own flag, have a language all of their own, 5 00:00:14,773 --> 00:00:17,773 曾一度是挪威的领土 and at one time were part of Norway. 6 00:00:18,760 --> 00:00:22,347 - 这些岛屿拥有独特而自豪的传统 - These islands boast a proud and distinctive heritage 7 00:00:22,397 --> 00:00:25,210 使其与英国其他地区截然不同 that set them apart from the rest of the country. 8 00:00:25,260 --> 00:00:27,654 对曾统治这里的维京人而言 To the Vikings who once ruled over them, 9 00:00:27,704 --> 00:00:31,343 这里是苏格兰最初与最终的边疆 they were the first and the last places in Scotland. 10 00:00:32,572 --> 00:00:33,763 在本系列中 In this series, 11 00:00:33,813 --> 00:00:36,623 我将继续我的环岛之旅 I'm continuing my island grand tour, 12 00:00:36,673 --> 00:00:39,380 探访设得兰群岛最北端的岛屿 visiting the most northerly of the Shetland Islands, 13 00:00:39,430 --> 00:00:43,091 探索西部群岛，并揭开 exploring the Western Isles, and discovering the secrets 14 00:00:43,141 --> 00:00:46,130 欧洲某些最偏远地区的秘密 of some of the remotest places in Europe. 15 00:00:46,180 --> 00:00:49,748 - 透过海水看到它们，太神奇了！ - To see them through the water like this, it's amazing! 16 00:00:49,798 --> 00:00:50,749 苏格兰拥有 Scotland boasts 17 00:00:50,799 --> 00:00:52,585 众多美丽的岛屿 a wonderful array of islands. 18 00:00:52,635 --> 00:00:55,634 事实上，有近300座岛屿 In fact, there are nearly 300 of them 19 00:00:55,684 --> 00:00:57,078 这还不包括 and that's not counting 20 00:00:57,128 --> 00:00:59,821 环绕着6000英里曲折海岸线的 the myriad of stacks, rocks and skerries 21 00:00:59,871 --> 00:01:03,587 无数岩柱、礁石与孤岩 that surround 6,000 convoluted miles of coast 22 00:01:03,637 --> 00:01:07,554 从大西洋一直延伸到北海 from the Atlantic Ocean to the North Sea. 23 00:01:07,604 --> 00:01:09,257 这次伟大之旅 For this grand tour, 24 00:01:09,307 --> 00:01:13,474 我将前往苏格兰的北部边疆岛屿 I'm heading to the islands of Scotland’s Northern Frontier. 25 00:01:23,917 --> 00:01:26,649 设得兰群岛北部有三座岛屿 There are three islands lying to the north of Shetland 26 00:01:26,699 --> 00:01:28,687 它们距离挪威几乎 that are almost as close to Norway 27 00:01:28,737 --> 00:01:31,265 和距离苏格兰本土一样近 as they are to mainland Scotland. 28 00:01:31,315 --> 00:01:34,100 它们被统称为北部群岛 They are collectively known as the North Isles 29 00:01:34,150 --> 00:01:38,317 并拥有独特名称：费特拉岛、安斯特岛和耶尔岛 and are distinctively named Fetlar, Unst, and Yell. 30 00:01:39,788 --> 00:01:40,792 穿越这些岛屿的旅程 My journey through them 31 00:01:40,842 --> 00:01:43,302 将带我抵达最终目的地 will take me to my final destination 32 00:01:43,352 --> 00:01:46,769 也是不列颠最北端之地 and the most northerly place in Britain. 33 00:01:48,124 --> 00:01:50,781 我的路线从这里开始，在耶尔岛 I begin my route here, on Yell. 34 00:01:56,404 --> 00:01:58,946 作为设得兰第二大岛 The second largest island on Shetland, 35 00:01:58,996 --> 00:02:01,930 耶尔岛几乎全境覆盖着 Yell is a place covered almost entirely 36 00:02:01,980 --> 00:02:03,813 深厚的泥炭层 in a deep bed of peat, 37 00:02:05,769 --> 00:02:08,705 这里居住着约千名居民 a place of about a thousand inhabitants, 38 00:02:08,755 --> 00:02:12,922 他们早已习惯迎风前行 who are well used to leaning into the wind to make headway. 39 00:02:15,501 --> 00:02:17,941 这片土地既令人感到熟悉 It's also a place that seems familiar 40 00:02:17,991 --> 00:02:20,761 同时又充满异域风情 and yet, at the same time, foreign. 41 00:02:20,811 --> 00:02:25,311 这要归因于一些非常奇特的地名 And that’s down to some pretty unusual place names. 42 00:02:25,361 --> 00:02:27,079 - 比如耶尔这个名字 - Take Yell for a start. 43 00:02:27,129 --> 00:02:29,470 它并非指必须大喊大叫 It doesn’t actually mean you have to yell 44 00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:33,235 才能让风声中的自己被听见——尽管可能需要这样 to make yourself heard above the wind, although it may do. 45 00:02:33,285 --> 00:02:37,452 还有古彻、林比斯特、哈斯科塞、纽伊夫·斯图伊斯 Then there's Gutcher, Limbister, Hascosay, Nev of Stuis, 46 00:02:39,373 --> 00:02:41,623 以及别忘了，格卢普 and not forgetting, Gloup. 47 00:02:43,362 --> 00:02:47,566 这些充满异域风情的名字可追溯至维京时代 These exotic-sounding names hark back to the Viking era, 48 00:02:47,616 --> 00:02:51,048 和一种称为诺恩语的古挪威方言 and a dialect of Old Norwegian called Norn, 49 00:02:51,098 --> 00:02:55,265 这种语言曾在此地广泛使用 which was widely spoken here. 50 00:02:56,387 --> 00:03:01,209 诺恩语在几代人前已基本消失 For the most part Norn died out several generations ago, 51 00:03:01,259 --> 00:03:03,225 但有一群岛民 but there's a group of islanders 52 00:03:03,275 --> 00:03:06,804 正通过歌声延续这种语言的生命力 who are keeping the language alive in song. 53 00:03:15,177 --> 00:03:17,535 他们是"耶尔号子男声合唱团" These are the Shanty Yellmen, 54 00:03:17,585 --> 00:03:21,752 因歌颂诺尔斯传统而相聚 who came together to celebrate their Norse heritage. 55 00:03:27,509 --> 00:03:29,321 直到15世纪 Until the 15th century 56 00:03:29,371 --> 00:03:31,968 这些岛屿仍属于挪威 these islands were still part of Norway, 57 00:03:32,018 --> 00:03:34,742 与大多数设得兰人一样，耶尔居民 and like most Shetlanders, the people of Yell 58 00:03:34,792 --> 00:03:38,959 对这段历史深感自豪 are immensely proud of this part of their history. 59 00:03:44,965 --> 00:03:46,330 真是太精彩了 Well, that was fantastic. 60 00:03:46,380 --> 00:03:47,163 - 谢谢夸奖 - Well, thank you. 61 00:03:47,213 --> 00:03:47,996 - 我是安迪 - Andy. 62 00:03:48,046 --> 00:03:50,419 我懂一点挪威语 Now I understand a little bit of Norwegian 63 00:03:50,469 --> 00:03:51,859 我觉得有些相似之处 and there's a similarity I think, 64 00:03:51,909 --> 00:03:55,342 介于我熟悉的挪威语 between the Norwegian language that I'm familiar with 65 00:03:55,392 --> 00:03:57,164 和歌词中的某些词汇 因为你们唱到 and some of the words in this because you're singing 66 00:03:59,179 --> 00:03:59,962 - 是的 - Yeah. 67 00:04:00,012 --> 00:04:03,069 挪威语中会这样说 Which in Norwegian would be. 68 00:04:03,119 --> 00:04:03,902 - 对 - Yeah. 69 00:04:03,952 --> 00:04:04,735 - 这是关于强烈的西风 - Which is about the strong west winds. 70 00:04:04,785 --> 00:04:05,998 - 正是 - Exactly. 71 00:04:06,048 --> 00:04:08,434 在设得兰，若询问天气 In Shetland, if you ask about the weather, 72 00:04:08,484 --> 00:04:09,267 实际是在问 you're asking about 73 00:04:09,317 --> 00:04:11,943 风向与风力强度 what's the direction and strength of the wind. 74 00:04:11,993 --> 00:04:13,135 - 你能站直吗？ - Can you stand up straight? 75 00:04:13,185 --> 00:04:14,465 帽子会被吹走吗？ Will your hat blow off? 76 00:04:15,348 --> 00:04:17,502 海况会有多汹涌？ How heavy will the sea be? 77 00:04:17,552 --> 00:04:19,814 听懂歌词是一回事 Knowing the words is one thing, 78 00:04:19,864 --> 00:04:23,231 但唱出来完全是另一回事 but singing them is another thing altogether. 79 00:04:23,281 --> 00:04:25,472 但我仍忍不住想试音 But I still can't resist auditioning 80 00:04:25,522 --> 00:04:28,623 加入这支独特的设得兰男子乐团 for this uniquely Shetland boy band. 81 00:04:44,449 --> 00:04:47,759 但音乐明星梦还需暂缓 But musical stardom will have to wait. 82 00:04:47,809 --> 00:04:50,798 我正前往海岸线，希望能瞥见 I'm heading down to the shoreline to hopefully catch sight 83 00:04:50,848 --> 00:04:54,159 岛上另一大吸引人的景观 of another of the island’s big attractions. 84 00:04:54,209 --> 00:04:56,975 我约了当地人布莱登·托马森见面 I've arranged to meet local man Brydon Thomason 85 00:04:57,025 --> 00:05:00,775 寻找耶尔岛最难以捉摸的居民 to track down Yell’s most elusive residents. 86 00:05:02,633 --> 00:05:03,963 你在寻找什么？ What are you looking for? 87 00:05:04,013 --> 00:05:06,781 这条小径，这条小道 Well, this path, this little track 88 00:05:06,831 --> 00:05:07,939 你看它延伸的方向 you can see going through, 89 00:05:07,989 --> 00:05:10,137 一直通向那边，穿过荒野 see it leads all the way through there, across the moor. 90 00:05:10,187 --> 00:05:12,206 它们会坚持走自己的小路吗？ Right, they they stick to their own little tracks? 91 00:05:12,256 --> 00:05:13,111 是的，它们会 They do, yeah. 92 00:05:13,161 --> 00:05:15,326 在这方面它们算是习惯性生物 They're kind of creatures of habit in that respect. 93 00:05:15,376 --> 00:05:17,435 始终沿着固定路径活动 They keep to their little paths. 94 00:05:18,750 --> 00:05:19,614 这堆小东西 This little pile here, 95 00:05:19,664 --> 00:05:22,395 周围草叶上有绿色污渍 you can see all the green stained grass around it, 96 00:05:22,445 --> 00:05:24,096 这是獭的标记点 this is a brenton point. 97 00:05:24,146 --> 00:05:25,876 其实就是一堆粪便？ Basically a pile of poo? 98 00:05:25,926 --> 00:05:28,093 - 其实就是一堆粪便 - Basically a pile of poo. 99 00:05:29,236 --> 00:05:32,174 但这可不是普通的粪便 But this isn’t any old pile of poo. 100 00:05:32,224 --> 00:05:35,820 这条线索告诉我们正在接近 This is a clue which tells us that we’re closing in 101 00:05:35,870 --> 00:05:39,370 拉丁学名Lutra lutra的生物——水獭 on Lutra lutra, better known as the otter. 102 00:05:41,118 --> 00:05:43,555 显然，设得兰是全球最佳地点之一 Apparently, Shetland is one of the best places in the world 103 00:05:43,605 --> 00:05:47,523 能观赏到这种美丽生物 to catch sight of this beautiful creature. 104 00:05:47,573 --> 00:05:49,028 - 当我们这样追踪时 - When we’re following the course like this 105 00:05:49,078 --> 00:05:51,879 持续向前扫描观察非常重要 it’s always really important to keep scanning ahead. 106 00:05:51,929 --> 00:05:53,785 要沿着海岸线扫描 So, scanning along the shore, you know, 107 00:05:53,835 --> 00:05:56,216 关注五十米开外的区域 up to maybe 50 meters or more after. 108 00:05:56,266 --> 00:05:58,077 这个距离通常是它们 That tends to be the kind of distance offshore 109 00:05:58,127 --> 00:06:00,199 在近海觅食的范围 they’ll be foraging. 110 00:06:00,249 --> 00:06:01,032 我衷心希望 I really hope 111 00:06:01,082 --> 00:06:05,249 布莱登专业的追踪技巧能带我们找到它们 that Brydon’s expert tracking skills will lead us to them. 112 00:06:06,166 --> 00:06:08,129 - 现在的风向对我们很有利 - We’ve got the wind direction working well for us here 113 00:06:08,179 --> 00:06:09,894 因为风把我们的气味吹向内陆 'cause it's blowing our scent inland. 114 00:06:09,944 --> 00:06:14,016 这很关键，因为它们嗅觉极其敏锐 That's crucial 'cause their sense of smell is really sharp. 115 00:06:14,066 --> 00:06:15,243 所以我们其实是在潜行靠近 So we’re really stalking them. 116 00:06:15,293 --> 00:06:16,076 是的 Yeah. 117 00:06:16,126 --> 00:06:16,909 但现在我们需要 But what we’ll have to do here 118 00:06:16,959 --> 00:06:18,688 俯身降低到堤岸下方 is get down low below the bank 119 00:06:18,738 --> 00:06:21,682 因为虽然它们视力很差 'cause although they’ve got really poor eyesight, 120 00:06:21,732 --> 00:06:25,790 但堤岸上的轮廓它们能轻易察觉 silhouettes along the bank they’ll see really easily. 121 00:06:25,840 --> 00:06:26,981 所以隐秘是关键 So stealth is the secret. 122 00:06:27,031 --> 00:06:30,673 隐秘是关键，没错 Stealth is the secret, yeah. 123 00:06:30,723 --> 00:06:32,001 布莱登在设得兰 Brydon was born and bred 124 00:06:32,051 --> 00:06:34,794 土生土长，对他而言 here in Shetland, and for him 125 00:06:34,844 --> 00:06:37,927 水獭是他毕生的热爱 otters have been a lifelong passion. 126 00:06:37,977 --> 00:06:39,803 你从何时迷上水獭的？ When did you get into otters? 127 00:06:39,853 --> 00:06:43,817 - 大概八九岁的时候 - Yeah right from when I was a, I mean 8, 9-year-old 128 00:06:43,867 --> 00:06:47,508 我就沿着它们的足迹寻找巢穴 I was following the runs and looking for their holts, 129 00:06:47,558 --> 00:06:50,094 用尽一切方法去了解更多 and just anything I could to find out more 130 00:06:50,144 --> 00:06:52,121 学习关于它们的知识 and, you know, learn more about them. 131 00:06:53,660 --> 00:06:56,789 最终我们的耐心获得了回报 Eventually our patience pays off. 132 00:06:56,839 --> 00:07:00,183 在那边的远礁处 To the far rocks there. 133 00:07:00,233 --> 00:07:02,617 就在岸边这些锯齿状岩石的前方 Just beyond these jaggeddy rocks on the shore. 134 00:07:02,667 --> 00:07:05,405 布莱登发现了水中的动静 Brydon spots something in the water. 135 00:07:05,455 --> 00:07:08,575 所以那是母獭和她的两只幼崽？ So that is a mother and her two cubs? 136 00:07:08,625 --> 00:07:09,528 - 是的没错 - It is, yeah. 137 00:07:09,578 --> 00:07:11,636 是雄性幼崽和雌性幼崽 Yeah, it's a male and a female cub. 138 00:07:11,686 --> 00:07:15,278 它们现在大约九到十个月大 These guys are about nine or 10 months old now. 139 00:07:17,452 --> 00:07:19,448 我以前见过水獭 I've seen otters before 140 00:07:19,498 --> 00:07:21,463 但从未如此近距离接触 but never this close up. 141 00:07:21,513 --> 00:07:23,680 这景象太美妙了 They're a wonderful sight. 142 00:07:30,334 --> 00:07:34,981 - 设得兰为何成为水獭的理想栖息地？ - What makes Shetland such a great place for otters? 143 00:07:35,031 --> 00:07:36,800 - 这里有原始纯净的水域 - You’ve got the pristine waters 144 00:07:36,850 --> 00:07:40,747 而且靠近海岸就有淡水水源 but also access to freshwater close to the shore 145 00:07:40,797 --> 00:07:45,226 方便它们冲掉皮毛中的海水，因为—— for washing the saltwater out of their fur, 'cause-- 146 00:07:45,276 --> 00:07:46,807 所以它们游完泳还要冲个澡？ So they go for a shower after been for a swim? 147 00:07:47,865 --> 00:07:49,274 - 是的，这是必需步骤 - Yeah, they’ve gotta do that. 148 00:07:49,324 --> 00:07:52,324 但皮毛是它们唯一的 But that’s their only real defense mechanism 149 00:07:52,374 --> 00:07:57,115 抵御冰冷海水的防御机制 against the cold, cold temperatures of water is their fur. 150 00:07:57,165 --> 00:07:59,318 所以这里具备所有必要条件 So you’ve got all the ingredients necessary 151 00:07:59,368 --> 00:08:01,873 能构成成功的水獭栖息地 for a successful otter habitat here. 152 00:08:01,923 --> 00:08:03,162 完全正确 Absolutely, yeah. 153 00:08:05,242 --> 00:08:06,397 设得兰周边海域 The seas around Shetland 154 00:08:06,447 --> 00:08:09,864 还提供了丰富的食物来源 also provide a plentiful source of food. 155 00:08:10,884 --> 00:08:12,074 天啊！ Oh my god! 156 00:08:12,124 --> 00:08:13,454 它们抓到东西了 They’ve got something. 157 00:08:13,504 --> 00:08:14,287 哦，是啊 Oh, yeah, yeah. 158 00:08:14,337 --> 00:08:16,182 她抓到了大家伙！ She's got a huge catch! 159 00:08:16,232 --> 00:08:17,422 是章鱼吗？ Is that an octopus? 160 00:08:17,472 --> 00:08:19,406 是章鱼！ It's an octopus! 161 00:08:19,456 --> 00:08:20,365 太神奇了！ That's amazing! 162 00:08:20,415 --> 00:08:21,622 快看 Look at that. 163 00:08:21,672 --> 00:08:23,093 拖到岸上了 Up onto the shore. 164 00:08:23,143 --> 00:08:24,379 看那只章鱼的尺寸 Look at the size of that octopus. 165 00:08:24,429 --> 00:08:25,420 太棒了！ It's brilliant! 166 00:08:25,470 --> 00:08:27,065 真大啊！ That’s huge! 167 00:08:27,115 --> 00:08:28,297 - 这捕猎场面相当戏剧性 - It's quite a dramatic catch 168 00:08:28,347 --> 00:08:29,728 因为触须四处飞舞 'cause it's all legs everywhere. 169 00:08:29,778 --> 00:08:31,531 确实全是触须 It certainly is all legs. 170 00:08:31,581 --> 00:08:32,364 你看 But yeah, you can see, 171 00:08:32,414 --> 00:08:36,414 那只幼崽真的在埋头猛吃 I mean that cub’s really getting stuck into it. 172 00:08:37,979 --> 00:08:42,146 但章鱼只是开胃菜 But the octopus was just a starter. 173 00:08:43,203 --> 00:08:44,778 它现在又拖来什么？ What's he bringing in now, then? 174 00:08:44,828 --> 00:08:46,947 看起来是绒泳蟹 It looks like a velvet swimming crab. 175 00:08:46,997 --> 00:08:48,019 老天！ Good god! 176 00:08:48,069 --> 00:08:48,852 没错 Yeah. 177 00:08:49,735 --> 00:08:50,518 太精彩了 That’s superb. 178 00:08:50,568 --> 00:08:51,351 必须小心 Have to be careful 179 00:08:51,401 --> 00:08:53,147 别被蟹钳夹到 not to be nipped by those claws. 180 00:08:53,197 --> 00:08:55,256 真是危险的餐食 A dangerous meal. 181 00:08:58,996 --> 00:09:02,605 - 它似乎被什么惊动了 - He seems to have been startled by something. 182 00:09:08,016 --> 00:09:10,417 是啊，它溜走了 Yeah, that’s him away. 183 00:09:10,467 --> 00:09:12,634 - 不过真是绝妙景象 - Fantastic sight though. 184 00:09:15,070 --> 00:09:15,853 你真幸运 You're a lucky man. 185 00:09:15,903 --> 00:09:16,686 我也这么觉得 I like to think so. 186 00:09:16,736 --> 00:09:18,079 你这工作真不赖 It's not a bad job you’ve got. 187 00:09:18,129 --> 00:09:21,546 确实是非常好的工作 It's not a bad job at all, no. 188 00:09:38,165 --> 00:09:41,107 新的一天，新的岛屿 It's a new day and another island. 189 00:09:41,157 --> 00:09:42,426 我正在短途航行前往 I'm making the short crossing 190 00:09:42,476 --> 00:09:46,143 一个被称为"设得兰花园"的地方 to a place known as the Garden of Shetland. 191 00:09:47,668 --> 00:09:49,679 这就是费特拉岛 This is Fetlar, 192 00:09:49,729 --> 00:09:53,198 在维京语言中意为"肥沃之岛" which in the language of the Vikings means Fat Island. 193 00:09:53,248 --> 00:09:54,963 据我所知这不是因为 And that’s not, as far as I know, 194 00:09:55,013 --> 00:09:57,553 岛上居民体型偏胖 because people tended to be on the large side, 195 00:09:57,603 --> 00:10:02,188 而是因为按设得兰标准这是富饶之岛 but because by Shetland standards this is a fertile island, 196 00:10:02,238 --> 00:10:03,257 这里的人们 and the people here 197 00:10:03,307 --> 00:10:06,714 曾依靠这片沃土生活 were able to live off the fat of the land. 198 00:10:11,132 --> 00:10:11,915 当维京人 When the Vikings 199 00:10:11,965 --> 00:10:13,624 初次踏上费特拉岛时 first set foot on Fetlar, 200 00:10:13,674 --> 00:10:15,049 他们会发现这里早已居住着 they would have found a population 211 00:10:15,099 --> 00:10:18,646 在此生活数千年的族群 who had been here for thousands of years. 202 00:10:18,696 --> 00:10:19,746 如今鲜有证据 There is little evidence 203 00:10:19,796 --> 00:10:23,013 能证明这些远古岛民的存在 of the existence of those ancient islanders today, 204 00:10:23,063 --> 00:10:24,859 但若仔细寻找 but if you look hard enough 205 00:10:24,909 --> 00:10:28,159 或许能偶然发现某些痕迹 you might just stumble upon something. 206 00:10:30,861 --> 00:10:33,043 这是芬尼吉尔特堤墙 This is Finnigirt’s Dyke, 207 00:10:33,093 --> 00:10:36,316 一道仍横贯岛屿的古墙 an ancient wall that still crosses the island, 208 00:10:36,366 --> 00:10:38,033 将其分为两半 dividing it in two. 209 00:10:40,595 --> 00:10:43,241 - 不得不说堤墙现存部分不多 - I have to say there isn’t an awful lot left of the dyke, 210 00:10:43,291 --> 00:10:46,263 但它毕竟已有三千多年历史 but then again it is over 3,000 years old 211 00:10:46,313 --> 00:10:49,382 砌墙的石头大多早已 and most of the stones that made it up have long ago 212 00:10:49,432 --> 00:10:51,705 被挪作他用 been plundered for other uses. 213 00:10:51,755 --> 00:10:54,482 但它的存在本身意味着 But the fact that it exists at all implies that, 214 00:10:54,532 --> 00:10:55,315 曾经 at one time, 215 00:10:55,365 --> 00:10:58,574 这里必然存在过非常先进的文明 there must have been a very sophisticated society here, 216 00:10:58,624 --> 00:11:02,000 一个能够组织大规模 one that was capable of organizing communal effort 217 00:11:02,050 --> 00:11:04,354 集体劳动的文明 on an impressive scale. 218 00:11:06,857 --> 00:11:08,585 芬尼吉尔特堤墙的建造者 The builders of Finnigirt’s Dyke 219 00:11:08,635 --> 00:11:12,772 很可能是农民，而农业始终是 were probably farmers, and agriculture has been the mainstay 220 00:11:12,822 --> 00:11:15,984 这个岛屿历代的经济支柱 of the island down the ages. 221 00:11:16,034 --> 00:11:19,158 当维京人1200年前抵达此地时 When the Vikings arrived here 1,200 years ago 222 00:11:19,208 --> 00:11:21,808 他们带来了一种动物 they brought with them an animal which they bred 223 00:11:21,858 --> 00:11:24,467 使设得兰闻名世界 to make Shetland famous throughout the world, 224 00:11:24,517 --> 00:11:29,272 成为岛上最珍贵的物产之一 becoming one of the island’s most valuable commodities. 225 00:11:29,322 --> 00:11:31,721 这就是设得兰羊 This is the Shetland sheep. 226 00:11:31,771 --> 00:11:33,565 以其优质羊毛而备受推崇 Prized for the quality of their wool, 227 00:11:33,615 --> 00:11:37,615 它们与这些岛屿紧密相连 they are closely identified with these islands. 228 00:11:40,174 --> 00:11:41,658 有些佃农 And there are some crofters 229 00:11:41,708 --> 00:11:45,875 坚持用传统方式饲养它们 who are determined to rear them in the traditional way. 230 00:11:48,404 --> 00:11:50,380 乔安妮·贝尔和丈夫莱斯 Joanne Bell and her husband, Les, 231 00:11:50,430 --> 00:11:52,930 在他们的农场上养了250只羊 have 250 sheep on their croft. 232 00:11:54,336 --> 00:11:57,105 我正赶上一年中最繁忙的时节 I've arrived at one of the busiest times of the year, 233 00:11:57,155 --> 00:12:00,255 恰逢剪羊毛期间 right in the middle of shearing. 234 00:12:00,305 --> 00:12:01,477 你们是手工剪毛？ So, you're hand clipping? 235 00:12:01,527 --> 00:12:02,930 是的，这是我们的方式 Yes, this is what we do. 236 00:12:02,980 --> 00:12:04,810 我们喜欢在母羊身上留些羊毛 We like to leave a bit of fleece on the ewe. 237 00:12:04,860 --> 00:12:07,013 所以不会完全剃光 Uh huh, so it's not completely shaved 238 00:12:07,063 --> 00:12:09,556 让它们在风中受冻 and freezing cold in this wind 239 00:12:09,606 --> 00:12:10,891 这就是一整张羊毛 So, one fleece. 240 00:12:10,941 --> 00:12:12,317 - 羊毛 - 真漂亮 - Fleece. - Beautiful. 241 00:12:12,367 --> 00:12:15,410 这些是纯种设得兰羊吗？ So these sheep here are purebred Shetland sheep? 242 00:12:15,460 --> 00:12:17,908 不，这里大概90%到95%的羊 No, probably 90, 95% of them here 243 00:12:17,958 --> 00:12:18,805 是纯种设得兰羊 are probably purebred Shetland. 244 00:12:18,855 --> 00:12:20,123 设得兰羊毛与其他羊毛 What's the difference in quality 245 00:12:20,173 --> 00:12:22,694 在品质上有何区别？ between a Shetland fleece and another fleece? 246 00:12:22,744 --> 00:12:25,732 - 设得兰纤维非常非常细腻 - Shetland fiber is very, very fine 247 00:12:25,782 --> 00:12:29,377 可以纺得极其精细 and you can spin it so, well, very fine, can't you? 248 00:12:29,427 --> 00:12:30,647 非常纤细 Really thin. 249 00:12:30,697 --> 00:12:32,321 乔安妮和莱斯五年前 Joanne and Les arrived here 250 00:12:32,371 --> 00:12:33,462 来到这里 five years ago, 251 00:12:33,512 --> 00:12:37,101 从达勒姆郡北上定居 having made the move north from County Durham. 252 00:12:37,151 --> 00:12:38,876 是什么吸引你们来这里的，乔安妮？ What brought you up here, Joanne? 253 00:12:38,926 --> 00:12:40,520 - 自由，空间 - Freedom, space. 254 00:12:40,570 --> 00:12:44,010 我们厌倦了南部的喧嚣忙碌 We were tired of the hustle and bustle back south. 255 00:12:44,060 --> 00:12:45,126 你们以前来过这里吗？ You been here before? 256 00:12:45,176 --> 00:12:46,348 - 我从没来过 - I’d never been here. 257 00:12:46,398 --> 00:12:47,181 你从没来过？ You’d never been here? 258 00:12:47,231 --> 00:12:48,014 - 没有 - No. 259 00:12:48,064 --> 00:12:49,698 第一次来就爱上了这里 It was my first visit and I fell in love. 260 00:12:49,748 --> 00:12:52,302 我们渡海而来，一踏上费特拉岛 And we crossed over and as soon as I landed on Fetlar, 261 00:12:52,352 --> 00:12:54,859 我就知道这里是我的归属之地 I knew that this was where I belong. 262 00:12:54,909 --> 00:12:55,692 真的吗？ Really? 263 00:12:55,742 --> 00:12:56,652 - 我就是爱上了这座岛 - I just fell in love with the island. 264 00:13:00,912 --> 00:13:02,538 他们过去的生活中 In their previous life 265 00:13:02,588 --> 00:13:06,101 莱斯是维护工程师，乔安妮从事教育工作 Les was maintenance engineer and Joanne worked in education. 266 00:13:06,151 --> 00:13:06,934 苏伊让开！ Away Sue! 267 00:13:06,984 --> 00:13:08,362 现在他们转而投身 Now they're turning their hand 268 00:13:08,412 --> 00:13:12,205 绵羊养殖，而且选择最艰难的方式 to sheep farming, and they're doing it the hard way. 269 00:13:12,255 --> 00:13:15,740 根本见不到电动剪毛器的影子 There's not a pair of electric shears in sight. 270 00:13:15,790 --> 00:13:16,573 注意别剪到手指 Keep all your fingers. 271 00:13:16,623 --> 00:13:17,447 哦，没错！ Ooh, yes! 272 00:13:18,518 --> 00:13:19,539 谢谢提醒 Thanks for reminding me. 273 00:13:19,589 --> 00:13:21,871 都快危险地挨上了 It's getting dangerously close. 274 00:13:21,921 --> 00:13:24,314 试图单手固定住羊 Trying to hold the sheep in one hand, 275 00:13:24,364 --> 00:13:28,968 另一只手挥舞利剪并不容易 while brandishing sharp clippers in the other, isn't easy. 276 00:13:29,018 --> 00:13:31,025 我比它还害怕呢 Yeah, well I'm more frightened than she is, 277 00:13:31,075 --> 00:13:31,858 我想 I think. 278 00:13:31,908 --> 00:13:33,945 怕扎到自己腿 Stab myself in the leg. 279 00:13:33,995 --> 00:13:35,912 割到羊的喉咙 Cut the sheep’s throat. 280 00:13:37,350 --> 00:13:39,117 我压力好大！ I'm stressed! 281 00:13:39,167 --> 00:13:39,999 - 我和你一样，保罗 - I'm like you, Paul. 282 00:13:40,049 --> 00:13:43,363 我不喜欢把剪子捅进羊毛里 I don’t like shoving the clippers into the sheep. 283 00:13:43,413 --> 00:13:46,509 - 我剪过但不喜欢剪毛 - I've done it but I don't like clipping. 284 00:13:46,559 --> 00:13:47,344 要接手吗莱斯？ Wanna take over, Les? 285 00:13:47,394 --> 00:13:48,561 我放弃了 I've given up. 286 00:13:49,763 --> 00:13:51,485 当莱斯用他的方式操作时 So while Les does it his way, 287 00:13:51,535 --> 00:13:54,383 乔安妮向我展示她偏爱的方法 Joanne shows me her preferred method, 288 00:13:54,433 --> 00:13:59,043 设得兰传统的薅羊毛技艺 the traditional Shetland art of rooing sheep. 289 00:13:59,093 --> 00:14:01,112 - 通常从颈部开始 - Normally you start from the neck, 290 00:14:01,162 --> 00:14:05,588 只需取一小撮轻轻拉扯 and it's a case of just taking a small piece and easing it. 291 00:14:05,638 --> 00:14:06,783 - 你是想整张毛皮 - Are you trying to pull the whole thing off 292 00:14:06,833 --> 00:14:07,994 完整薅下来吗？ as one fleece? 293 00:14:08,044 --> 00:14:08,827 是的 Yes. 294 00:14:08,877 --> 00:14:09,660 而不是一撮一撮地薅？ Rather than handfuls? 295 00:14:09,710 --> 00:14:10,493 嗯哼 Uh huh. 296 00:14:10,543 --> 00:14:11,352 这不会弄疼它们 And it doesn’t hurt them, 297 00:14:11,402 --> 00:14:13,664 虽然看起来像在用力拉扯 although it does look as if you're tugging it. 298 00:14:13,714 --> 00:14:14,872 是的 Yeah. 299 00:14:14,922 --> 00:14:17,185 它显然不完全相信这是好主意 He's not entirely convinced this is a good idea. 300 00:14:17,235 --> 00:14:18,018 好了 Right. 301 00:14:18,068 --> 00:14:19,801 就像梳子一样，用手当梳子 Just like a comb, use your hand as a comb. 302 00:14:19,851 --> 00:14:21,101 当梳子然后直接扯？ As a comb and just pull? 303 00:14:21,151 --> 00:14:22,173 对 Yes. 304 00:14:22,223 --> 00:14:23,006 对不起羊！ Sorry sheep! 305 00:14:23,056 --> 00:14:23,839 有感觉吗？ Can you feel it? 306 00:14:23,889 --> 00:14:26,202 有东西扯下来了 Well, something’s coming away. 307 00:14:26,252 --> 00:14:27,548 一把肉！ Handfuls of flesh! 308 00:14:32,523 --> 00:14:33,306 在过去 In the past, 309 00:14:33,356 --> 00:14:37,041 所有设得兰羊都是这样剪毛的 this was how all Shetland sheep were shorn. 310 00:14:37,091 --> 00:14:38,415 这样产出的羊毛 The wool that was produced 311 00:14:38,465 --> 00:14:43,231 很快以其优质和保暖性闻名 quickly became renowned for its quality and warmth. 312 00:14:43,281 --> 00:14:47,033 曾几何时，费特拉岛上每位女性都精通 At one time, every woman on Fetlar would have been adept 313 00:14:47,083 --> 00:14:50,666 纺车和织针的使用 with a spinning wheel and a set of needles. 314 00:15:00,425 --> 00:15:04,455 设得兰羊毛的重要性在201年得到认可 The importance of Shetland wool was recognized in 2011 315 00:15:04,505 --> 00:15:07,939 当时被授予原产地保护 status when it was given protected status. 316 00:15:07,989 --> 00:15:10,469 乔安妮或许不是设得兰原住民 Joanne may not be a native Shetlander, 317 00:15:10,519 --> 00:15:13,085 但她热情地开始学习 but she's enthusiastically set about learning 318 00:15:13,135 --> 00:15:17,135 传统工艺的操作方式 how things used to be done the traditional way. 319 00:15:18,004 --> 00:15:19,928 你这疯狂的羊 You crazy sheep. 320 00:15:19,978 --> 00:15:21,377 是啊 Yeah. 321 00:15:22,896 --> 00:15:25,342 我从没想过自己会 Well, I never thought I’d end up with a ewe 322 00:15:25,392 --> 00:15:27,642 用大腿夹住一只母羊 clamped between my thighs. 323 00:15:29,039 --> 00:15:31,885 薅毛可能不如剪毛快速 Rooing may not be as fast as shearing, 324 00:15:31,935 --> 00:15:34,190 但绝对更有趣 but it's definitely more fun. 325 00:15:34,240 --> 00:15:35,197 - 好了，全部完成 - Right, she's all done. 326 00:15:35,247 --> 00:15:36,127 好，漂亮 Right, beautiful. 327 00:15:36,177 --> 00:15:37,202 它可以自由离开了 And she's free to go. 328 00:15:37,252 --> 00:15:38,285 看哪 Look at that. 329 00:15:38,335 --> 00:15:39,118 是啊 Yeah. 330 00:15:39,168 --> 00:15:40,860 它相当印象深刻 He's quite impressed. 331 00:15:40,910 --> 00:15:42,811 乔安妮，你从未后悔过 Joanne, do you never roo the day 332 00:15:42,861 --> 00:15:43,758 开始做这个吗？ that you started doing this? 333 00:15:46,474 --> 00:15:47,583 几乎耗尽了我 Having almost exhausted 334 00:15:47,633 --> 00:15:49,367 所有的双关语储备 my repertoire of puns, 335 00:15:49,417 --> 00:15:53,012 我不好意思地穿过费特拉岛 I make my way sheepishly across Fetlar. 336 00:15:55,417 --> 00:15:58,794 这片土地上点缀着废弃农庄 This landscape is dotted with deserted crofts, 337 00:15:58,844 --> 00:16:03,011 印证着这座岛屿面临的挑战 testament to the challenges this island has faced. 338 00:16:04,098 --> 00:16:06,763 多年来，留住岛民 For many years, keeping people on the islands 339 00:16:06,813 --> 00:16:09,313 始终是个艰巨任务 has been a constant struggle. 340 00:16:10,154 --> 00:16:11,891 每个季节更迭 Each change of season 341 00:16:11,941 --> 00:16:14,755 都带来不同的劳作 brings its different task. 342 00:16:14,805 --> 00:16:16,895 种子在浅土中加速生长 The seed is quickening in the shallow earth, 343 00:16:16,945 --> 00:16:20,104 此刻佃农从田地里转身 and now the crofter turns from his fields 344 00:16:20,154 --> 00:16:22,861 在荒野泥炭岸旁休息 to rest from the peat banks on the moor, 345 00:16:22,911 --> 00:16:26,068 这是岛屿唯一的燃料 the only fuel that the islands have. 346 00:16:26,118 --> 00:16:29,808 这部1933年的电影戏剧化呈现了 This 1933 film dramatized the dilemma 347 00:16:29,858 --> 00:16:32,655 许多岛民被迫面临的抉择 facing many islanders forced to choose 348 00:16:32,705 --> 00:16:35,105 是在设得兰勉强维生 between eking out a living on Shetland, 349 00:16:35,155 --> 00:16:37,822 还是移民新大陆 or emigrating to the New World. 350 00:16:39,834 --> 00:16:42,388 全片在设得兰实地拍摄 Shot entirely on location in Shetland 351 00:16:42,438 --> 00:16:45,730 由当地人出演，讲述了 and starring local people, the film tells the story 352 00:16:45,780 --> 00:16:48,249 一对年轻夫妇获得机会 of a young couple who are given the opportunity 353 00:16:48,299 --> 00:16:51,981 离开崎岖岛屿前往澳大利亚开启新生活 to leave the rugged island for a new life in Australia. 354 00:16:55,658 --> 00:16:59,825 但为去留问题纠结时，他们发生争执 But torn over whether to stay or go, they quarrel. 355 00:17:06,691 --> 00:17:08,548 - 电影高潮发生在 - The climax of the film takes place 356 00:17:08,598 --> 00:17:12,581 一段险峻海岸线，当女主角的宠物羊 along a dramatic coastline, when the heroine’s pet sheep, 357 00:17:12,631 --> 00:17:15,867 卡迪被涨潮困住时 Cuddy, is trapped by the incoming tide, 358 00:17:15,917 --> 00:17:19,786 唯有惊险的悬崖救援能拯救宠物 and only a dramatic cliff rescue can save the pet 359 00:17:19,836 --> 00:17:22,484 和这对夫妇岌岌可危的关系 and the couple’s troubled relationship. 360 00:17:28,966 --> 00:17:30,901 这段救援戏是电影制作的 The rescue is an impressive piece 361 00:17:30,951 --> 00:17:34,786 杰出片段，即使按现今标准亦然 of filmmaking, even by today’s standards. 362 00:17:34,836 --> 00:17:36,336 而且十分危险 And dangerous too. 363 00:17:41,285 --> 00:17:44,648 英雄救场成功并救下宠物羊 The hero saves the day and the pet sheep, 364 00:17:44,698 --> 00:17:47,448 与女友重归于好 and is reconciled with his girl. 365 00:17:51,721 --> 00:17:53,436 但站在悬崖顶上 But standing on the clifftop, 366 00:17:53,486 --> 00:17:57,069 这对夫妇仍面临未卜前途 the couple still face an uncertain future. 367 00:17:59,314 --> 00:18:02,231 - 所以他们走了还是留下了？ - So did they go or did they stay? 368 00:18:04,618 --> 00:18:06,256 这留待我们 Well, we’re left to make up 369 00:18:06,306 --> 00:18:08,559 自行想象 our own minds about that. 370 00:18:08,609 --> 00:18:10,749 但当他们走向夕阳时 But as they walk off into the sunset, 371 00:18:10,799 --> 00:18:14,966 无论未来如何，他们将共同面对 whatever the future holds, they will face it together. 372 00:18:20,007 --> 00:18:22,402 我离开费特拉岛的时候到了 The time has come for me to leave Fetlar 373 00:18:22,452 --> 00:18:26,619 前往下一站安斯特岛 and head to my next destination, the Island of Unst. 374 00:18:27,989 --> 00:18:32,939 为抵达那里，我搭这艘渔船的便船 To get there, I'm hitching a lift on this fishing boat. 375 00:18:32,989 --> 00:18:34,061 海洋始终是 The sea has always been 376 00:18:34,111 --> 00:18:37,536 设得兰生活的重要组成部分 an important part of life on Shetland 377 00:18:37,586 --> 00:18:42,217 岛民在此捕鱼已有数世纪历史 and islanders have fished these waters for centuries. 378 00:18:42,267 --> 00:18:44,514 我抵达安斯特岛时所在的地方曾 I arrive on Unst at a place that was once 379 00:18:44,564 --> 00:18:48,731 是苏格兰最繁忙的港口之一，巴尔特松德 one of the busiest ports in Scotland, Baltasound. 380 00:18:51,382 --> 00:18:55,549 如今这是个宁静村庄，但百年前 Today, this is a sleepy village, but a hundred years ago, 381 00:18:57,020 --> 00:18:59,542 成千上万人从四面八方涌来 thousands came here from far and wide, 382 00:18:59,592 --> 00:19:03,759 追随迁徙的银色珍宝——鲱鱼群 following the migrating shoals of silver darlings, herring. 383 00:19:08,023 --> 00:19:10,222 当渔获在港口卸下时 When the catch was landed here in the harbor, 384 00:19:10,272 --> 00:19:12,020 成群妇女每天处理并封装 teams of women gutted and packed 385 00:19:12,070 --> 00:19:14,653 大量鱼获 huge numbers of fish each day. 386 00:19:16,612 --> 00:19:18,174 想象这里曾经 I imagine this would have been a very busy place 387 00:19:18,224 --> 00:19:19,042 必定非常繁忙 at one time. 388 00:19:19,092 --> 00:19:20,009 - 是的，没错 - Yes, yes. 389 00:19:20,903 --> 00:19:25,304 世纪之交时这里是繁荣的产业 Turn of the century it was a thriving industry here. 390 00:19:25,354 --> 00:19:27,396 当地历史学家罗达·休森 Local historian Rhoda Hughson 391 00:19:27,446 --> 00:19:29,408 研究过巴尔特松德的过往 has researched Baltasound’s past 392 00:19:29,458 --> 00:19:32,625 并身着全套掏鱼女工装现身 and has come in full gutter girl garb. 393 00:19:33,476 --> 00:19:35,534 我看到的这些地基是什么？ And what are these foundations that I can see? 394 00:19:35,584 --> 00:19:37,531 - 这些可以说是 - These are, if you like, 395 00:19:37,581 --> 00:19:41,284 鲱鱼捕捞业的足迹 the footprints of the herring fishing industry. 396 00:19:41,334 --> 00:19:45,992 曾是掏鱼女工居住的木棚 They were the wooden huts where the gutter girls lived. 397 00:19:46,042 --> 00:19:46,919 嗯哼 Mmm hmm. 398 00:19:46,969 --> 00:19:48,584 所以这是她们的住宿区？ So this would have been their accommodation blocks? 399 00:19:48,634 --> 00:19:49,586 她们住在这里？ They would live here? 400 00:19:49,636 --> 00:19:50,469 - 是的 - Yes. 401 00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:53,694 你看到中间那里 So what you see in the center there 402 00:19:53,744 --> 00:19:56,661 是四个小炉子的烟囱 is chimneys for four little stoves, 403 00:19:58,209 --> 00:20:01,788 每个炉子在棚屋角落 each stove in the corner of their hut, 404 00:20:01,838 --> 00:20:04,282 这就是棚屋的尺寸 and this is the dimension of the hut. 405 00:20:04,332 --> 00:20:07,490 所以有一二三四间棚屋 So there's one, two, three, four huts. 406 00:20:07,540 --> 00:20:09,101 四间棚屋，每间住多少女孩？ Four huts, and how many girls in each hut? 407 00:20:09,151 --> 00:20:11,706 - 每间四人 她们会有个角落 - Four to the hut and they would have had a corner 408 00:20:11,756 --> 00:20:13,847 悬挂有异味的工作服 where they hang up their smelly stuff 409 00:20:13,897 --> 00:20:16,451 当她们每日掏鱼归来时 when they came back from the gutting for the day. 410 00:20:16,501 --> 00:20:20,133 所以必须保持整洁干净 So they had to keep it all very tidy and clean and so-- 411 00:20:20,183 --> 00:20:21,091 相当拥挤 Quite cramped. 412 00:20:21,141 --> 00:20:21,924 非常拥挤 Very cramped. 413 00:20:21,974 --> 00:20:22,757 - 是的 - Yeah. 414 00:20:22,807 --> 00:20:25,108 但她们早已习惯拥挤环境 But then they were used to cramped conditions 415 00:20:25,158 --> 00:20:26,967 无论来自何处 wherever they came from. 416 00:20:27,017 --> 00:20:29,090 她们大多来自小房子里的大家庭 They would have big families in small houses, 417 00:20:29,140 --> 00:20:31,493 所以这对她们不算什么 so to them this was fine. 418 00:20:31,543 --> 00:20:32,326 我猜她们大部分工作时间 And I'm guessing they spend 419 00:20:32,376 --> 00:20:33,843 本来就在户外 most of their working day outside anyway. 420 00:20:33,893 --> 00:20:34,913 - 户外 户外 - Outside, outside. 421 00:20:34,963 --> 00:20:36,666 这里真的就只是睡觉的地方 So this is really strictly for sleeping in. 422 00:20:36,716 --> 00:20:37,499 - 是的 - Yeah. 423 00:20:37,549 --> 00:20:40,042 她们从早上六点工作 By the time they were, from six o’clock in the morning 424 00:20:40,092 --> 00:20:41,921 可能到晚上六点 to probably six o’clock at night. 425 00:20:41,971 --> 00:20:43,717 在这里待的时间不长 They didn’t have long in here. 426 00:20:43,767 --> 00:20:45,222 而且这里曾有无数的棚屋 And there would have been lots and lots of huts, 427 00:20:45,272 --> 00:20:46,462 一眼望不到头？ as far as the eye can see? 428 00:20:46,512 --> 00:20:47,809 是的 没错 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 429 00:20:47,859 --> 00:20:48,772 鲱鱼季期间这里 And what was the population 430 00:20:48,822 --> 00:20:50,350 人口有多少？ during the herring season down here? 431 00:20:50,400 --> 00:20:52,042 达到过12000人 It went up to 12,000. 432 00:20:53,005 --> 00:20:55,096 12000人？ 12,000? 433 00:20:55,146 --> 00:20:56,300 这就是个城市啊 And this was a city. 434 00:20:56,350 --> 00:20:58,310 是的 Yeah. 435 00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:02,527 难以想象 It's hard to imagine. 436 00:21:03,471 --> 00:21:05,004 鱼获在码头卸下后 On being landed at the quays, 437 00:21:05,054 --> 00:21:08,120 由技术娴熟的女孩们掏内脏 the fish is gutted by very skillful girls, 438 00:21:08,170 --> 00:21:12,337 分级后装入桶中准备出口 and graded and packed into barrels ready for export. 439 00:21:14,755 --> 00:21:15,603 她们一小时能处理 So how many herring 440 00:21:15,653 --> 00:21:17,250 多少条鲱鱼？ would they be able to gut in an hour? 441 00:21:17,300 --> 00:21:19,511 每分钟60条 Well, 60 per minute. 442 00:21:19,561 --> 00:21:20,594 每分钟60条鲱鱼？ 60 herrings per minute? 443 00:21:20,644 --> 00:21:21,427 是的 Yeah. 444 00:21:21,477 --> 00:21:22,260 一秒一条 One a second. 445 00:21:22,310 --> 00:21:23,093 嗯 Hmm. 446 00:21:23,143 --> 00:21:24,646 她们的手会快得模糊 Their hands would have been a blur. 447 00:21:24,696 --> 00:21:25,479 - 是的 - Yeah. 448 00:21:25,529 --> 00:21:29,696 她们会包扎手指以防割伤 They would bind their fingers so that they didn’t get cut. 449 00:21:30,871 --> 00:21:34,144 如果伤口感染就无法工作 If the cut went septic then they wouldn’t be able to work 450 00:21:34,194 --> 00:21:38,624 整个渔季剩余时间 也就拿不到报酬 for the rest of the season and they wouldn’t get paid. 451 00:21:38,674 --> 00:21:41,374 为展示操作过程 To show me how it was done, 452 00:21:41,424 --> 00:21:45,591 当地渔民安德鲁·马格尼·汤姆森给我上了课 local fisherman Andrew Magney Thomson gives me a lesson. 453 00:21:46,575 --> 00:21:48,681 然后是第二刀 And the second one. 454 00:21:48,731 --> 00:21:49,653 - 好的 - All right. 455 00:21:49,703 --> 00:21:52,290 我手指包好了 防止割伤 So I'm bound up here, in case I cut myself. 456 00:21:52,340 --> 00:21:53,534 - 嗯哼 - Uh huh. 457 00:21:53,584 --> 00:21:56,334 - 抓住银色珍宝 - So you grab a silver darling, 458 00:21:56,384 --> 00:21:58,683 需要把刀伸入 so I need to get the knife under-- 459 00:21:58,733 --> 00:21:59,659 看着 Well, look at. 460 00:22:01,894 --> 00:22:02,977 好的 明白 Yeah, right. 461 00:22:06,292 --> 00:22:07,132 抱歉了安德鲁 Sorry about this, Andrew. 462 00:22:07,182 --> 00:22:08,247 有点尴尬是吧？ This is a bit embarrassing, isn’t it? 463 00:22:08,297 --> 00:22:09,080 我是说 I mean-- 464 00:22:09,130 --> 00:22:10,664 - 鱼鳃还在—— - 鱼鳃还在里面 - The gill is still-- - The gill’s still in there. 465 00:22:10,714 --> 00:22:12,829 - 所以如果你处理完一条 - So if you got one, 466 00:22:12,879 --> 00:22:14,855 需要再次下刀到鱼鳃后方 then got to put the knife in behind the gill again. 467 00:22:14,905 --> 00:22:17,509 是的 其实就两刀 Yeah, so it's really just two strokes of the knife. 468 00:22:17,559 --> 00:22:18,637 - 对 - Yeah. 469 00:22:18,687 --> 00:22:19,939 但熟练之后 But when you're really good at it, 470 00:22:19,989 --> 00:22:22,293 很多女工能一刀完成 a lot of the women could do it in one. 471 00:22:22,343 --> 00:22:23,459 - 就一刀？ - 一刀搞定 - Just one? - One cut. 472 00:22:23,509 --> 00:22:24,792 所以才能一秒一条 That’s why they were doing one a second. 473 00:22:24,842 --> 00:22:25,625 是的 没错 Yeah, yeah. 474 00:22:25,675 --> 00:22:27,175 - 找到鱼鳃位置 - Find that gill. 475 00:22:29,219 --> 00:22:31,139 开始灵巧操作 Here goes the deft movement. 476 00:22:33,110 --> 00:22:35,267 然后再向前划 And then to the front again. 477 00:22:35,317 --> 00:22:36,100 - 再向前 - To the front again. 478 00:22:36,150 --> 00:22:36,933 这个方向对吧？ This way round, yeah? 479 00:22:36,983 --> 00:22:38,113 啊哈！ Aha! 480 00:22:39,353 --> 00:22:41,785 这就是我处理的第一条鲱鱼 So that’s my first gutted herring. 481 00:22:41,835 --> 00:22:44,376 而且保住了所有手指 And I managed to keep all my fingers. 482 00:22:44,426 --> 00:22:46,170 但花了一分多钟 But it took me over a minute, 483 00:22:46,220 --> 00:22:50,387 估计我当不了掏鱼女工 so I don’t think I'd have lasted long as a gutter girl. 484 00:22:54,450 --> 00:22:59,236 离开巴尔特松德 我向内陆进发探索安斯特岛 Leaving Baltasound, I head inland to explore more of Unst 485 00:22:59,286 --> 00:23:00,802 探访堪称苏格兰 and to visit what must be 486 00:23:00,852 --> 00:23:05,733 最奇特旅游景点之一的地方 one of the most unusual tourist attractions in Scotland. 487 00:23:05,783 --> 00:23:10,444 - 这就是世界闻名的博比公车亭 - Now this is the world famous Bobby’s Bus Shelter. 488 00:23:12,570 --> 00:23:13,433 几年前 A few years ago, 489 00:23:13,483 --> 00:23:16,691 议会决定拆除这个公车亭 the council decided to scrap this bus shelter, 490 00:23:16,741 --> 00:23:20,179 但当地名叫博比的小学生发起的运动 but a campaign by a local schoolboy called Bobby 491 00:23:20,229 --> 00:23:22,584 获得巨大支持 gained huge support. 492 00:23:22,634 --> 00:23:26,801 公车亭不仅得以保留 还因此闻名 Not only was the shelter saved, it also became famous. 493 00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:29,865 - 它确实拥有引以为傲的特质 - It does boast the proud distinction 494 00:23:29,915 --> 00:23:32,517 作为全英国最北端的公车亭 of being the most northerly bus shelter 495 00:23:32,567 --> 00:23:34,361 为疲惫旅客提供 in the whole of the UK, 496 00:23:34,411 --> 00:23:38,578 家一般的舒适体验 affording the weary traveler all the comforts of home. 497 00:23:42,248 --> 00:23:44,095 如今岛民可以享受 And now islanders can enjoy 498 00:23:44,145 --> 00:23:46,978 豪华候车体验 the long wait for a bus in luxury. 499 00:23:49,369 --> 00:23:51,878 具备公车站应有的一切设施 It's got everything you could possibly hope for 500 00:23:51,928 --> 00:23:53,095 应有尽有 at a bus stop. 501 00:23:59,072 --> 00:24:01,547 不过似乎 唯独没有公车 Except, it would seem, for a bus. 502 00:24:07,136 --> 00:24:10,294 于是我徒步返回海岸 So, on foot, I'm heading back to the coast 503 00:24:10,344 --> 00:24:11,687 拜访一位岛民 to meet an islander 504 00:24:11,737 --> 00:24:15,904 她正沉迷于设得兰另一项热门消遣 who's indulging in another popular Shetland pastime. 505 00:24:17,086 --> 00:24:17,887 你好 谢丽尔 Aye, Cheryl. 506 00:24:17,937 --> 00:24:18,720 - 你好 你好 - Aye, aye. 507 00:24:18,770 --> 00:24:20,971 听说你在海滩 They told me I’d find you down on the beach, 508 00:24:21,021 --> 00:24:21,804 海滩寻宝 beachcombing. 509 00:24:21,854 --> 00:24:22,788 - 很高兴见到你 - Good to meet you. 510 00:24:22,838 --> 00:24:23,621 是的 Yeah. 511 00:24:23,671 --> 00:24:24,454 - 你在寻找什么？ - What are you looking for? 512 00:24:24,504 --> 00:24:26,465 我在找浮木 I'm looking for driftwood. 513 00:24:26,515 --> 00:24:30,948 谢丽尔·詹米森是当地艺术家 Cheryl Jamieson is a local artist. 514 00:24:30,998 --> 00:24:34,049 - 历史上这里一直有海滩寻宝人 - In the history there have always been beachcombers here, 515 00:24:34,099 --> 00:24:36,943 因为他们不得不这样做 because that’s what they had to do 516 00:24:36,993 --> 00:24:38,426 这里没有树木 because there's no trees here, 517 00:24:38,476 --> 00:24:39,588 所以任何木材来源 so any kind of wood that they got 518 00:24:39,638 --> 00:24:42,084 只能靠海浪冲上来的物件 was what they could find washed up. 519 00:24:42,134 --> 00:24:43,618 所以你算是延续悠久传统 So you're part of a long tradition in a way, 520 00:24:43,668 --> 00:24:45,371 只是将木材用于不同用途 but you're just using wood for a different purpose. 521 00:24:45,421 --> 00:24:46,254 - 是的 - Yeah. 522 00:24:47,095 --> 00:24:47,878 是块木头！ It's a bit of tree! 523 00:24:47,928 --> 00:24:48,852 - 来自树木 没错 - It's from a tree, yeah. 524 00:24:48,902 --> 00:24:49,702 - 这很罕见吧？ - That’s very rare, isn’t it? 525 00:24:49,752 --> 00:24:51,720 - 但应该不是设得兰本地的 - But not from Shetland, I don’t think. 526 00:24:51,770 --> 00:24:52,553 - 我也觉得不是 - I don’t think so. 527 00:24:52,603 --> 00:24:53,456 可能来自挪威 Maybe from Norway. 528 00:24:53,506 --> 00:24:54,374 - 有可能 - Could be. 529 00:24:54,424 --> 00:24:55,978 - 所以从海滩到工作室？ - So from the beach up to the studio then? 530 00:24:56,028 --> 00:24:56,861 - 是的 - Yeah. 531 00:24:58,554 --> 00:25:00,674 谢丽尔出生在安斯特岛 Cheryl was born here on Unst, 532 00:25:00,724 --> 00:25:05,092 和许多岛民一样 曾离岛去本土求学 and like many islanders, left to study on the mainland. 533 00:25:05,142 --> 00:25:08,192 但设得兰的吸引力太过强大 But the pull of Shetland proved too powerful, 534 00:25:08,242 --> 00:25:09,465 当她归来时 and when she returned, 535 00:25:09,515 --> 00:25:13,046 她勇敢地开创了自己的手工艺事业 she took the bold step of starting her own craft business. 536 00:25:16,427 --> 00:25:18,283 用我们收集的浮木 Using the driftwood we collected, 537 00:25:18,333 --> 00:25:21,567 在谢丽尔指导下 我将尝试 and under Cheryl’s guidance, I'm going to try my hand 538 00:25:21,617 --> 00:25:26,111 创作一件设得兰主题的艺术品 at creating a Shetland-inspired artwork of my own. 539 00:25:26,161 --> 00:25:27,410 我需要从这里开始吗？ So do I need to start from about here? 540 00:25:27,460 --> 00:25:28,666 或许可以从那里开始 I would start about there maybe. 541 00:25:28,716 --> 00:25:29,685 - 好的 - Yeah. 542 00:25:29,735 --> 00:25:32,402 我用这把钳子就行 And I’ll just use these pliers. 543 00:25:34,267 --> 00:25:35,050 就这样！ That’s it! 544 00:25:35,100 --> 00:25:35,883 哦 看这个！ Oh, look at that! 545 00:25:35,933 --> 00:25:36,716 - 完美！ - Perfect! 546 00:25:36,766 --> 00:25:37,549 正好能放这里 Yeah, so that’ll fit there. 547 00:25:37,599 --> 00:25:38,382 是的 很好 Yeah, that’s good. 548 00:25:38,432 --> 00:25:40,358 这里处处都是灵感来源 And you've got so much inspiration all around here, 549 00:25:40,408 --> 00:25:41,407 在设得兰 不是吗？ on Shetland, haven’t you? 550 00:25:41,457 --> 00:25:42,291 - 是的 没错 - Yeah, yeah. 551 00:25:42,341 --> 00:25:45,067 设得兰拥有丰富遗产 考古遗迹 Shetland is so rich with the heritage, the archaeology, 552 00:25:45,117 --> 00:25:49,284 地质特征 费尔岛图案 设得兰矮种马 the geology, our Fair Isle patterns, our Shetland ponies. 553 00:25:50,189 --> 00:25:51,321 应有尽有 It's all here. 554 00:25:51,371 --> 00:25:53,391 - 能看出你是自豪的设得兰人 - You are a proud Shetlander, I can tell. 555 00:25:53,441 --> 00:25:54,751 - 是的 非常自豪 - Yeah, very proud Shetlander. 556 00:25:54,801 --> 00:25:57,310 我们有自己的传统 We’ve got our own kind of traditions and-- 557 00:25:57,360 --> 00:25:58,272 嗯 你们几乎 Mm hmm, you’ve got almost 558 00:25:58,322 --> 00:25:59,298 拥有自己的语言 like a language of your own. 559 00:25:59,348 --> 00:26:00,301 - 是的 我们有设得兰方言 - Yeah, we’ve got the Shetland-- 560 00:26:00,351 --> 00:26:02,127 - 因为我听到设得兰人交谈时 - Because I can't understand an awful lot 561 00:26:02,177 --> 00:26:04,083 很多都听不懂 that’s happening when I hear, or overhear, 562 00:26:04,133 --> 00:26:05,210 两个设得兰人说话时 two Shetlanders speak. 563 00:26:05,260 --> 00:26:07,501 - 是的 我们这里有方言 - Yeah, we have our, our own dialect here. 564 00:26:07,551 --> 00:26:08,334 嗯哼 Uh huh. 565 00:26:08,384 --> 00:26:09,489 我听你说话很清晰 I can understand you quite clearly. 566 00:26:09,539 --> 00:26:11,611 是的 因为我在用标准语和你说话 Yeah. That’s because I'm canapping to you. 567 00:26:11,661 --> 00:26:12,444 你在用标准语？ You're canapping? 568 00:26:12,494 --> 00:26:13,277 - 标准语 - Canapping. 569 00:26:13,327 --> 00:26:14,407 是装优雅的意思吗？ What, is that being dead posh or something? 570 00:26:14,457 --> 00:26:16,985 是的 最标准的王室英语 Yeah, the best Queen’s English. 571 00:26:17,035 --> 00:26:18,401 - 所以标准语是只在 - So canapping is something you only do 572 00:26:18,451 --> 00:26:20,322 和非岛民交流时才使用的？ when you're speaking to someone who’s not from the islands? 573 00:26:20,372 --> 00:26:21,823 - 是的 没错 - Yeah, yeah. 574 00:26:21,873 --> 00:26:23,609 有时你脑子里想的是设得兰方言 Sometimes you might be nearly thinking one thing 575 00:26:23,659 --> 00:26:24,618 在设得兰方言中 in Shetland in your head, 576 00:26:24,668 --> 00:26:27,402 却要翻译成英语 and having to translate it into English. 577 00:26:27,452 --> 00:26:28,235 嗯哼 Uh huh. 578 00:26:28,285 --> 00:26:29,068 - 是的 - Yeah. 579 00:26:29,118 --> 00:26:30,273 如果一群设得兰人中有个外人 Can be quite hard if you're in a group of Shetlanders 580 00:26:30,323 --> 00:26:34,320 你需要为一个人 with one person that’s not, um, and you’ve got to try 581 00:26:34,370 --> 00:26:36,754 改变说话方式 and alter how you're speaking for one person, 582 00:26:36,804 --> 00:26:39,449 又知道其他设得兰人在听着 but you're aware that Shetlanders are listening in. 583 00:26:40,332 --> 00:26:41,115 那就更尴尬了 That’s even more embarrassing. 584 00:26:41,165 --> 00:26:42,198 - 哦 听她说！ - Oh, listen to her! 585 00:26:42,248 --> 00:26:43,620 注意听！ Hark at her! 586 00:26:43,670 --> 00:26:44,787 在用标准语呢！ Canapping away! 587 00:26:44,837 --> 00:26:45,717 - 标准语 没错 - Canapping, yeah. 588 00:26:48,111 --> 00:26:50,275 我的熔融玻璃风景画 My fused glass landscape 589 00:26:50,325 --> 00:26:53,889 将在谢丽尔的窑中烧制12小时 will spend about 12 hours in Cheryl’s kiln. 590 00:26:53,939 --> 00:26:55,617 看它们如何融合 Just how it all kind of melts together, 591 00:26:55,667 --> 00:26:58,378 不同颜色相互交融 the different colors get diluted. 592 00:26:58,428 --> 00:26:59,665 完成后 And when it's done, 593 00:26:59,715 --> 00:27:02,997 希望能达到这样的效果 hopefully it will look something like this. 594 00:27:03,047 --> 00:27:03,830 真美 That's beautiful. 595 00:27:03,880 --> 00:27:04,733 木材与玻璃结合 The woods and the glass, 596 00:27:04,783 --> 00:27:06,540 玻璃嵌入木材中 glass set into the wood. 597 00:27:06,590 --> 00:27:08,295 但我没时间验证 But I don’t have time to find out 598 00:27:08,345 --> 00:27:12,373 我的作品是否能像谢丽尔的这般出色 if my finished artwork turns out as well as Cheryl’s, 599 00:27:12,423 --> 00:27:15,327 因为我正前往最终目的地 because I'm heading towards my final destination 600 00:27:15,377 --> 00:27:17,575 小岛穆克弗拉加 and the tiny island of Muckle Flugga. 601 00:27:23,794 --> 00:27:25,466 岛上灯塔由 The island's lighthouse was designed 602 00:27:25,516 --> 00:27:29,944 罗伯特·路易斯·史蒂文森的父亲和叔叔设计 by Robert Louis Stevenson’s father and his uncle. 603 00:27:29,994 --> 00:27:31,588 有人值守时 看守员是 When it was manned, the keepers were 604 00:27:31,638 --> 00:27:35,527 不列颠群岛最北端的居民 the most northerly residents in the British Isles. 605 00:27:35,577 --> 00:27:39,600 如今灯塔已自动化 空无一人 Today, its beacon is automated and the lighthouse empty. 606 00:27:39,650 --> 00:27:40,885 但即便穆克弗拉加 But even Muckle Flugga 607 00:27:40,935 --> 00:27:44,455 也不是不列颠最北端 isn’t the most northerly point in Britain. 608 00:27:44,505 --> 00:27:48,141 - 这个称号属于名副其实的外斯塔克岛 - That title belongs to the appropriately named Out Stack, 609 00:27:48,191 --> 00:27:50,034 当地称乌茨塔 or Ootsta as it's called. 610 00:27:50,084 --> 00:27:53,755 它位于穆克弗拉加以北仅600米 It lies just 600 meters to the north of Muckle Flugga 611 00:27:53,805 --> 00:27:58,683 是不列颠群岛的最终点 and that is the very last point of the British Isles. 612 00:27:58,733 --> 00:28:00,170 这片岩石礁 This rocky outcrop 613 00:28:00,220 --> 00:28:01,875 从未有人居住 has never been inhabited, 614 00:28:01,925 --> 00:28:06,092 如今尝试登陆也过于困难 and attempting to land here today would be far too tricky. 615 00:28:07,056 --> 00:28:09,362 从这里正北方向出发 If you head directly north from here, 616 00:28:09,412 --> 00:28:13,409 直达北极前空无一物 there is nothing until you reach the North Pole. 617 00:28:13,459 --> 00:28:17,049 但对我而言 这里是旅程终点 But for me, this is the end of the line. 618 00:28:17,099 --> 00:28:19,883 - 乌茨塔被称为不列颠的句号 - Ootsta has been described as the full stop 619 00:28:19,933 --> 00:28:21,498 终点之点 at the end of Britain, 620 00:28:21,548 --> 00:28:24,056 前方再无岛屿 and with no more islands to the north of me, 621 00:28:24,106 --> 00:28:26,206 我想不到更合适的地方 I can't think of a more appropriate place 622 00:28:26,256 --> 00:28:30,211 为我的苏格兰环岛之旅画上句号 to end my grand tour of the Scottish islands.