1 00:00:01,440 --> 00:00:03,461 - 在赫布里底群岛之中 - Among the islands of the Hebrides, 2 00:00:03,511 --> 00:00:05,171 有一座岛屿堪称拥有 there's one that can rightly claim 3 00:00:05,221 --> 00:00:07,467 独特身份 to have a separate identity; 4 00:00:07,517 --> 00:00:11,684 一个与世隔绝之地 a place that’s set apart from the rest of the world. 5 00:00:13,770 --> 00:00:16,281 如您所见 前往我的目的地 As you can see, it's taking a wee bit more 6 00:00:16,331 --> 00:00:20,071 需比平常多费些功夫 than the usual effort to reach my destination. 7 00:00:20,121 --> 00:00:24,378 我正在与自然元素和逆境赛跑 I'm in a race against the elements, and the odds, 8 00:00:24,428 --> 00:00:28,281 前往一座拥有古老渊源的岛屿 to reach an island with an ancient pedigree. 9 00:00:28,331 --> 00:00:29,164 划桨！ Stroke! 10 00:00:31,654 --> 00:00:35,604 本系列中 我将继续我的环岛之旅 In this series, I'm continuing my island grand tour. 11 00:00:35,654 --> 00:00:38,379 造访设得兰群岛最北端 Visiting the most northerly of the Shetland Island 12 00:00:38,429 --> 00:00:40,300 探索西部群岛 exploring the Western Isles 13 00:00:40,350 --> 00:00:42,114 并发现不列颠某些 and discovering the secrets of some 14 00:00:42,164 --> 00:00:44,864 最偏远之地的奥秘 of the loneliest places in Britain. 15 00:00:44,914 --> 00:00:48,360 像这样从水中看它们 太神奇了！ To see them through the water like this, it's amazing! 16 00:00:48,410 --> 00:00:51,540 苏格兰拥有众多绝美岛屿 Scotland boasts a wonderful array of islands. 17 00:00:51,590 --> 00:00:54,278 事实上 有近300座岛屿 In fact, there are nearly 300 of them 18 00:00:54,328 --> 00:00:56,088 这还不包括环绕着 and that’s not counting the myriad 19 00:00:56,138 --> 00:00:58,619 6000英里曲折海岸线的无数 of stacks, rocks and skerries 20 00:00:58,669 --> 00:01:02,317 从大西洋到北海的 that surround 6000 convoluted miles of coast 21 00:01:02,367 --> 00:01:05,784 岩柱 礁石和礁岛 from the Atlantic Ocean to the North Sea. 22 00:01:07,248 --> 00:01:10,499 这次环岛之旅 我前往艾莱岛 For this grand tour, I'm heading to Islay, 23 00:01:10,549 --> 00:01:12,716 赫布里底群岛之后 the Queen of the Hebrides. 24 00:01:23,337 --> 00:01:26,797 艾莱岛距苏格兰海岸仅15英里 Lying only 15 miles off the coast of Scotland, 25 00:01:26,847 --> 00:01:29,795 拥有令人惊叹的景观 Islay can lay claim to breathtaking landscapes, 26 00:01:29,845 --> 00:01:33,178 古老遗迹和迷人的历史 ancient ruins and a fascinating history. 27 00:01:37,127 --> 00:01:40,047 我穿越苏格兰第五大岛的路线 My route across Scotland’s fifth largest island 28 00:01:40,097 --> 00:01:42,546 将从狂风肆虐的海岸 will take me from its windswept coast, 29 00:01:42,596 --> 00:01:44,917 经过历史悠久的港口和村庄 through its historic ports and villages, 30 00:01:44,967 --> 00:01:47,550 最终抵达其最高山脉 to end on its highest mountain. 31 00:01:50,507 --> 00:01:55,021 艾莱岛曾是一个庞大盖尔帝国的中心 At one time, Islay was at the heart of a vast Gaelic empire 32 00:01:55,071 --> 00:01:58,647 统治者通过海洋控制王国 whose rulers controlled their kingdom by sea. 33 00:01:58,697 --> 00:02:01,298 因此这似乎是最合适的方式 So this seems to be the most appropriate way 34 00:02:01,348 --> 00:02:03,348 抵达这座岛屿 to arrive on the island. 35 00:02:04,208 --> 00:02:06,245 我奋力划行的这艘船属于 The boat I'm struggling to row belongs 36 00:02:06,295 --> 00:02:08,705 悠久的航海传统 to a long tradition of seafaring 37 00:02:08,755 --> 00:02:12,832 由这群热忱的艾莱人延续 that’s kept alive by this dedicated bunch of Ileach, 38 00:02:12,882 --> 00:02:15,184 正如当地人所知的艾莱岛民 as Islay folk in these parts are known. 39 00:02:15,234 --> 00:02:17,188 对吧 罗德尼 你是艾莱人吗？ Is that right, Rodney, you an Ileach? 40 00:02:17,238 --> 00:02:19,143 - 是的 土生土长 保罗 - Yes, born and bred, Paul. 41 00:02:19,193 --> 00:02:21,279 - 作为划船的艾莱人感觉如何？ - What's it feel like to be an Ileach rowing a boat? 42 00:02:21,329 --> 00:02:22,269 - 啊 很棒 - Ah, lovely. 43 00:02:22,319 --> 00:02:25,819 在这样的日子里 没有比这更好的地方了 On days like this, no, no better place in the world. 44 00:02:25,869 --> 00:02:27,923 反正这让我喘不过气来 Well, it's taking my breath away anyway. 45 00:02:27,973 --> 00:02:30,130 啊 很好 Ah, good. 46 00:02:30,180 --> 00:02:33,793 罗德尼·莫里森和他的船员 像许多艾莱人一样 Rodney Morrison and his crew, like many Islay folk, 47 00:02:33,843 --> 00:02:36,343 血脉中流淌着海水 have saltwater in their veins. 48 00:02:37,504 --> 00:02:40,977 这是一艘小艇 曾几何时 这样的船 This is a skiff and at one time boats like these 49 00:02:41,027 --> 00:02:44,473 在这片海岸很常见 would have been a common sight around this coast. 50 00:02:44,523 --> 00:02:46,975 那么 在过去 来自艾莱岛的渔民 So, in the old days, fishermen from Islay 51 00:02:47,025 --> 00:02:48,058 以及整个西海岸 and all round the west coast 52 00:02:48,108 --> 00:02:50,004 想必使用的是类似的船吧 would have used boats similar to these presumably. 53 00:02:50,054 --> 00:02:51,420 是的 没错 Yes, aye. 54 00:02:51,470 --> 00:02:53,707 那会是段艰苦的岁月 对吧？ It would have been a hard old life, wouldn’t it? 55 00:02:53,757 --> 00:02:56,619 - 是的 那时候 男人才是真正的男人 - Yep, me, men were men in those days. 56 00:02:59,760 --> 00:03:03,406 - 像这样的小艇可追溯至19世纪 - Skiffs like this date back to the 19th century 57 00:03:03,456 --> 00:03:07,623 用于捕鱼 运输甚至比赛 and were used for fishing, transportation and even racing. 58 00:03:09,075 --> 00:03:10,172 - 你觉得我划得怎么样？ - And how do you think my rowing is? 59 00:03:10,222 --> 00:03:11,448 你觉得能跟上节奏吗？ Do you think it's gonna stand up to the pace? 60 00:03:11,498 --> 00:03:12,569 - 啊 你做得很好 - Ah, you're, you're doing fine. 61 00:03:12,619 --> 00:03:16,258 你一直跟得上划桨的节奏 You're keeping up with the stroke man, all the time. 62 00:03:16,308 --> 00:03:17,513 啊哈 Ah ha. 63 00:03:17,563 --> 00:03:19,354 - 放松点划 - And just relax when you're doing it. 64 00:03:19,404 --> 00:03:20,759 关键是节奏 It's all about rhythm. 65 00:03:20,809 --> 00:03:22,423 就是这样 That’s it. 66 00:03:22,473 --> 00:03:24,112 哦 节奏乱了 Oh, lost that stroke. 67 00:03:24,162 --> 00:03:25,766 哦 全乱套了 Oh, it's all gone horribly wrong. 68 00:03:28,548 --> 00:03:31,301 这些艾莱划船者并非孤例 This Islay rowers are not alone. 69 00:03:31,351 --> 00:03:34,532 沿海划船正逐渐复兴 Coastal rowing is enjoying something of a revival, 70 00:03:34,582 --> 00:03:37,891 与敌对岛屿和城镇进行比赛 with races with rival islands and towns. 71 00:03:37,941 --> 00:03:41,813 看起来有趣 但这是件严肃的事 It looks fun but it's a serious business. 72 00:03:41,863 --> 00:03:45,737 所以 我想知道我是否具备所需素质 So, I want to know if I have what it takes. 73 00:03:45,787 --> 00:03:47,374 - 好的 - Okay. 74 00:03:56,573 --> 00:03:59,153 这是一场三方竞赛 我决心 It's a three way race and I'm determined 75 00:03:59,203 --> 00:04:02,203 向这些人展示我的实力 to show these guys what I'm made of. 76 00:04:04,029 --> 00:04:06,861 这是费尽肺活量 撕裂肌肉的工作 It's lung busting, muscle tearing work 77 00:04:06,911 --> 00:04:09,578 保持这种极快的速度 keeping up this blistering pace. 78 00:04:15,611 --> 00:04:17,818 哦 我们正在飞速前进 不是吗？ Oh, we’re bombing along here, are we not? 79 00:04:20,818 --> 00:04:23,901 哦 我们现在划得很漂亮 兄弟们 Oh, we’re going beautifully now, men. 80 00:04:26,145 --> 00:04:29,358 划啊 划啊 加油 罗德尼！ Pull, pull, come on, Rodney! 81 00:04:29,408 --> 00:04:32,779 - 啊 我们现在领先了 我们比他们有优势 - Ah, we’ve got them now, we’ve got the edge on them. 82 00:04:32,829 --> 00:04:37,258 我忘了问传统小艇比赛 Now, I forgot to ask how long a traditional skiff race 83 00:04:37,308 --> 00:04:38,975 应该持续多久 is supposed to last. 84 00:04:41,706 --> 00:04:43,847 我们已经划了一段时间了 We’ve been going for a while now 85 00:04:43,897 --> 00:04:46,505 但看不到终点线的迹象 and there's no sign of the finish line. 86 00:04:46,555 --> 00:04:47,913 回程很长 It's a long row back. 87 00:04:47,963 --> 00:04:49,291 回程真是漫长 It's a hell of a long way back. 88 00:04:49,341 --> 00:04:50,124 我知道！ I know! 89 00:04:50,174 --> 00:04:52,203 我的背疼死了 My back’s killing me. 90 00:04:52,253 --> 00:04:55,980 - 我手上起了水泡 屁股上也起了水泡！ - I've got blisters on my hands, blisters on my bum! 91 00:04:56,030 --> 00:04:58,113 然后命运介入 And then fate intervenes. 92 00:04:59,935 --> 00:05:01,359 有一支桨断了 There's a broken oar. 93 00:05:01,409 --> 00:05:02,492 一支断桨 A broken oar. 94 00:05:03,541 --> 00:05:04,958 哦 一支断桨 Oh, a broken oar. 95 00:05:08,754 --> 00:05:12,759 我不太确定这是否让我们成为赢家 I'm not too sure if that makes us the winners. 96 00:05:12,809 --> 00:05:16,354 但现在我们必须一路划回岸边 But now we have to row all the way back to shore. 97 00:05:16,404 --> 00:05:19,779 呃 我希望我的背没事 Uh, I hope my back isn't. 98 00:05:19,829 --> 00:05:21,531 你们最远划到哪里过？ What's the furthest you’ve ever rowed? 99 00:05:21,581 --> 00:05:23,067 到爱尔兰 Over to Ireland. 100 00:05:23,117 --> 00:05:24,299 - 什么 划到爱尔兰？ - What, rowing to Ireland? 101 00:05:24,349 --> 00:05:25,132 - 是的 - Yep. 102 00:05:25,182 --> 00:05:27,162 - 真的吗 花了多长时间？ - Really, how long did that take you? 103 00:05:27,212 --> 00:05:28,479 花了我们11个小时 11 hours it took us. 104 00:05:28,529 --> 00:05:29,325 11个小时！ 11 hours! 105 00:05:29,375 --> 00:05:32,623 - 但是 健力士啤酒喝得很痛快 - But, and the Guinness went down rather well. 106 00:05:32,673 --> 00:05:36,840 - 幸好今天我们去爱尔兰不是为了喝一杯 - Thankfully today we’re not going to Ireland for a pint. 107 00:05:38,459 --> 00:05:40,976 身体有些地方感到些许不适 Feeling a little tender in places, 108 00:05:41,026 --> 00:05:43,021 我感激地登上了艾莱岛 I gratefully land on Islay. 109 00:05:43,071 --> 00:05:44,912 并开始我的旅程 And begin my journey. 110 00:05:44,962 --> 00:05:49,005 我正前往内陆 寻找一个古老帝国的中心 I'm heading inland to find the center of an ancient empire 111 00:05:49,055 --> 00:05:52,888 它随着海洋的掌控而来 芬拉根 that came with mastery of the seas; Finlaggan. 112 00:05:57,611 --> 00:06:00,812 12世纪时 这里成为 In the 12th century, this became the capital 113 00:06:00,862 --> 00:06:03,195 群岛王国的首都 of the Kingdom of the Isles. 114 00:06:04,722 --> 00:06:07,400 这里曾是苏格兰最迷人 And this was where one of the most fascinating 115 00:06:07,450 --> 00:06:11,033 和最可怕的统治者之一设立宫廷的地方 and fearsome of Scottish rulers held court. 116 00:06:11,873 --> 00:06:15,290 艾莱岛历史上的大佬 索默莱德 The Big Daddy of Islay history; Somerled. 117 00:06:18,990 --> 00:06:20,846 索默莱德是混血儿 Somerled was of mixed race. 118 00:06:20,896 --> 00:06:24,093 他一半是维京人 一半是凯尔特人 He was half Viking, half Celt. 119 00:06:24,143 --> 00:06:26,608 考虑到我自己的挪威血统 And given my own Norwegian connections, 120 00:06:26,658 --> 00:06:30,825 我发觉他的故事引人入胜并不奇怪 it's hardly surprising I find his story a compelling one. 121 00:06:31,797 --> 00:06:35,005 他是真正的凯尔特英雄 据说他从维京入侵者手中 He was a true Celtic hero, who is said to have reclaimed 122 00:06:35,055 --> 00:06:37,732 夺回了赫布里底群岛 the Hebrides from Viking invaders 123 00:06:37,782 --> 00:06:41,199 并声称拥有苏格兰王冠 and staked a claim to the Scottish crown. 124 00:06:42,447 --> 00:06:44,617 索默莱德的权力游戏结束了 Somerled’s game of thrones ended 125 00:06:44,667 --> 00:06:46,333 当他在战斗中阵亡时 when he was killed in battle 126 00:06:46,383 --> 00:06:49,060 在入侵苏格兰大陆时 while invading mainland Scotland, 127 00:06:49,110 --> 00:06:51,512 但他的后代 麦克唐纳家族 but his descendants, the MacDonalds, 128 00:06:51,562 --> 00:06:54,805 继续从芬拉根统治 continued to rule from Finlaggan. 129 00:06:54,855 --> 00:06:57,861 这里的遗迹已有数百年历史 The ruins here are centuries old, 130 00:06:57,911 --> 00:07:01,743 我周围低矮的墙壁是 and the low walls all around me are all that’s left 131 00:07:01,793 --> 00:07:04,981 大会堂仅存的部分 这里曾是 of the Great Hall, which at one time was a center 132 00:07:05,031 --> 00:07:09,198 整个麦克唐纳领主辖地的行政中心 of administration for the whole of the MacDonald lordship. 133 00:07:10,543 --> 00:07:14,385 距大岛仅几码之遥的是较小的 Just a few yards from Eilean Mor is the smaller island 134 00:07:14,435 --> 00:07:18,345 议会岛 of Eilean na Comhairle, or Council Island. 135 00:07:18,395 --> 00:07:21,229 它们曾由一条石堤相连 They were once linked by a stone causeway, 136 00:07:21,279 --> 00:07:24,612 但今天我不得不乘船前往 but today I have to make my way by boat. 137 00:07:26,447 --> 00:07:28,489 就是在这里作出判决 It was here that judgements were made 138 00:07:28,539 --> 00:07:30,677 并为一个帝国制定法律 and laws were passed for an empire 139 00:07:30,727 --> 00:07:32,732 其范围包括西部群岛 which included the Western Isles 140 00:07:32,782 --> 00:07:36,699 及苏格兰西海岸的大部分地区 and a large part of the west coast of Scotland. 141 00:07:37,679 --> 00:07:40,896 令人惊叹的是 700年前 It's amazing to think that 700 years ago, 142 00:07:40,946 --> 00:07:43,381 从这个小小岛屿 from this tiny little island, 143 00:07:43,431 --> 00:07:45,737 麦克唐纳家族 群岛领主 the MacDonalds, Lords of the Isles, 144 00:07:45,787 --> 00:07:50,225 完全独立地统治着他们的海洋帝国 ruled over their empire of the seas, quite independently. 145 00:07:50,275 --> 00:07:53,853 他们自行征战 自定法律 They fought their own battles, they made their own laws, 146 00:07:53,903 --> 00:07:56,901 甚至曾有一次与英格兰国王结盟 and on one occasion even made an alliance 147 00:07:56,951 --> 00:08:00,697 对抗苏格兰国王 with the King of England against the King of Scotland. 148 00:08:00,747 --> 00:08:05,062 从他们的行动看 他们几乎像是一个独特的种族 From their actions, they seemed almost a race apart. 149 00:08:05,112 --> 00:08:07,713 这或许就是为什么在艾莱岛 Which is perhaps why they’ve always done things 150 00:08:07,763 --> 00:08:11,180 做事方式总是有点不同 just a wee bit differently here on Islay. 151 00:08:16,783 --> 00:08:21,430 我正前往岛上最大的城镇 波摩 I'm heading to the island’s biggest town; Bowmore. 152 00:08:21,480 --> 00:08:22,882 整洁的小街道 With its neat little streets 153 00:08:22,932 --> 00:08:25,401 和特色的白墙建筑 and characteristic whitewashed buildings, 154 00:08:25,451 --> 00:08:29,097 是艾莱岛的明信片形象 it's a picture postcard image of Islay. 155 00:08:29,147 --> 00:08:32,562 但这并非普通的滨海小镇 But this is no ordinary seaside town. 156 00:08:32,612 --> 00:08:36,721 波摩实际上是苏格兰第一个规划村落 Bowmore is actually Scotland’s first planned village, 157 00:08:36,771 --> 00:08:39,349 它的创建是众多创新之一 and its creation was one of the many innovations 158 00:08:39,399 --> 00:08:41,769 由一个具有远见的家族推动 made by a forward thinking family, 159 00:08:41,819 --> 00:08:44,893 他们将改变这座岛屿 who would transform this island. 160 00:08:44,943 --> 00:08:47,776 他们是肖菲尔德·坎贝尔家族 They were the Shawfield Campbells. 161 00:08:49,376 --> 00:08:53,897 艾莱庄园 曾是坎贝尔领主们的宅邸 Islay House, was once the home of the Campbell lairds, 162 00:08:53,947 --> 00:08:57,213 我来此与历史学家玛格丽特·斯托里交谈 I've come here to speak to historian Margaret Storrie 163 00:08:57,263 --> 00:08:59,798 她著述介绍了这个非凡的王朝 who's written about this remarkable dynasty 164 00:08:59,848 --> 00:09:03,348 如何区别于其他地主 set themselves apart from other landlords. 165 00:09:05,647 --> 00:09:08,082 玛格丽特 我听说肖菲尔德的坎贝尔家族 Now Margaret, I've heard that the Campbells of Shawfields 166 00:09:08,132 --> 00:09:11,008 在当时和历史看来 were regarded, at the time and historically, 167 00:09:11,058 --> 00:09:13,561 被认为是这片土地的伟大改良者 as the great improvers of the land here. 168 00:09:13,611 --> 00:09:14,394 对吗？ Is that right? 169 00:09:14,444 --> 00:09:17,960 - 是的 资金被投入艾莱岛 - Yes, money was being spent on Islay 170 00:09:18,010 --> 00:09:20,260 建造学校 教堂 to build schools, churches, 171 00:09:21,927 --> 00:09:23,686 改善排水 to help with drainage 172 00:09:23,736 --> 00:09:26,694 及其他事项 当然还有 and other things, and, and also of course, 173 00:09:26,744 --> 00:09:29,818 其中一位决定清除这边的旧村落 one of them decided to clear the old village 174 00:09:29,868 --> 00:09:32,975 这里是岛的中心 from over here, which was the center of the island, 175 00:09:33,025 --> 00:09:36,133 并完全新建了波摩镇 and build a completely new town of Bowmore. 176 00:09:40,178 --> 00:09:43,692 波摩是丹尼尔·坎贝尔的创意 Bowmore was the brainchild of Daniel Campbell, 177 00:09:43,742 --> 00:09:46,286 他是历代领主之一 who was one in a long line of lairds 178 00:09:46,336 --> 00:09:50,354 力求最大化岛屿的潜力 who sought to maximize the island’s potential. 179 00:09:50,404 --> 00:09:52,539 按照几何街道规划建造 Built along a geometric street plan, 180 00:09:52,589 --> 00:09:54,730 灵感源自他游历过的 it was inspired by the great cities 181 00:09:54,780 --> 00:09:57,491 欧洲伟大城市 of Europe he had visited. 182 00:09:57,541 --> 00:10:01,254 - 他曾是环欧壮游的年轻纨绔子弟 - He had been a young dandy er, on the grand tour 183 00:10:01,304 --> 00:10:04,732 想建造山顶小镇波摩 and wanted to build the hilltop town of Bowmore. 184 00:10:04,782 --> 00:10:07,542 并在山顶建造教堂 And built the church at the top of the hill 185 00:10:07,592 --> 00:10:09,894 配有非常宽阔的乔治亚风格街道 with very wide Georgian streets, 186 00:10:09,944 --> 00:10:13,894 宽度加倍 以便阳光 which are double the width, to allow the sun 187 00:10:13,944 --> 00:10:16,694 能照进两旁的房屋 to get into houses on both sides. 188 00:10:17,567 --> 00:10:21,434 坎贝尔家族于1726年买下该岛 The Campbells bought the island in 1726, 189 00:10:21,484 --> 00:10:23,214 此后100年间 for the next 100 years, 190 00:10:23,264 --> 00:10:26,548 与许多投资羊群的地主不同 unlike many landlords who invested in sheep. 191 00:10:26,598 --> 00:10:30,104 他们投资于人 发展产业 they invested in people, developing industries, 192 00:10:30,154 --> 00:10:34,321 如亚麻制造 采矿 渔业和蒸馏业 such as linen manufacture, mining, fishing and distilling. 193 00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:39,979 1800年代初 沃尔特·弗雷德里克·坎贝尔 In the early 1800s, Walter Frederick Campbell 194 00:10:40,029 --> 00:10:44,196 通过建造更多规划村落做得更大更好 went bigger and better by building more planned villages. 195 00:10:45,741 --> 00:10:49,025 感人的是 他将夏洛特港以母亲命名 Touchingly, he named Port Charlotte after his mother 196 00:10:49,075 --> 00:10:51,575 艾伦港以妻子命名 and Port Ellen after his wife. 197 00:10:52,459 --> 00:10:56,626 他的计划雄心勃勃 但也付出了代价 His plans were ambitious, but they came at a cost. 198 00:10:57,872 --> 00:11:00,140 - 他们想为人们 - They wanted to make a success of these villages 199 00:11:00,190 --> 00:11:03,529 成功建设这些村落 但问题是人口 for the people, but the problem was the population 200 00:11:03,579 --> 00:11:05,568 不断增长 再增长 kept going up and up and up. 201 00:11:05,618 --> 00:11:07,994 达到了15000人 And it got to 15,000. 202 00:11:08,044 --> 00:11:09,376 - 15000人住在岛上？ - 15,000 people living on the island? 203 00:11:09,426 --> 00:11:11,405 - 是现在的四倍 - Which is four times what it is now. 204 00:11:11,455 --> 00:11:13,901 但这是非常多的人 But it's an awful lot of people to, 205 00:11:13,951 --> 00:11:16,215 如果要靠土地养活的话 to feed if you're living on the land. 206 00:11:16,265 --> 00:11:17,607 - 那时肖菲尔德坎贝尔家族 - Is that when things began to go wrong 207 00:11:17,657 --> 00:11:19,705 开始出问题了吗？ for the Campbells of Shawfields? 208 00:11:19,755 --> 00:11:20,538 - 是的 - Yes. 209 00:11:24,066 --> 00:11:26,823 拿破仑战争结束后 In the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars, 210 00:11:26,873 --> 00:11:30,456 整个国家陷入财政危机 the entire country was in financial crisis. 211 00:11:31,627 --> 00:11:34,026 牲畜和作物价格暴跌 Cattle and crop prices plummeted. 212 00:11:34,076 --> 00:11:36,201 沃尔特·弗雷德里克·坎贝尔试图坚守 Walter Frederick Campbell tried to hold on 213 00:11:36,251 --> 00:11:39,851 他珍视的有序社会理想 to his cherished ideal of an ordered society, 214 00:11:39,901 --> 00:11:41,425 但在1840年代 but in the 1840s, 215 00:11:41,475 --> 00:11:45,058 爱尔兰的马铃薯疫病传到了艾莱岛 the potato blight in Ireland reached Islay. 216 00:11:47,267 --> 00:11:49,277 - 他令人吃惊地破产了 - He went spectacularly bust 217 00:11:49,327 --> 00:11:50,980 债务高达80万英镑 to the tune of 800,000 218 00:11:51,030 --> 00:11:53,642 相当于今天的近7.5亿 which is worth nearly three quarters of a billion today. 219 00:11:53,692 --> 00:11:54,708 - 7.5亿？ - Three quarters of a billion? 220 00:11:54,758 --> 00:11:55,541 - 今天 - Today. 221 00:11:55,591 --> 00:11:57,046 - 那是笔巨债 对吧？ - That’s a serious debt, isn’t it? 222 00:11:57,096 --> 00:11:57,879 是的 Yes. 223 00:11:57,929 --> 00:12:01,084 1847年 破产且身败名裂的 In 1847, bankrupt and ruined, 224 00:12:01,134 --> 00:12:03,505 沃尔特·弗雷德里克·坎贝尔最后一次 Walter Frederick Campbell left Islay House 225 00:12:03,555 --> 00:12:05,452 离开了艾莱庄园 for the last time. 226 00:12:05,502 --> 00:12:08,702 - 他从这里带走了一些银器和瓷器 - So, he picked up some of his silver and china from here. 227 00:12:08,752 --> 00:12:11,028 当时有一场猛烈的雷暴 There was a terrific thunderstorm. 228 00:12:11,078 --> 00:12:13,870 大家都认为这是上帝之怒 And everybody thought that this was the wrath of God 229 00:12:13,920 --> 00:12:15,363 降临在坎贝尔家族身上 coming down on the Campbells. 230 00:12:19,889 --> 00:12:21,762 然而 坎贝尔家族的遗产 The legacy of the Campbells however, 231 00:12:21,812 --> 00:12:25,229 继续成为艾莱岛身份的一部分 continues to be part of Islay's identity. 232 00:12:26,141 --> 00:12:29,102 而关于最后一位伟大岛屿改良者性格 And perhaps the most poignant insight into the character 233 00:12:29,152 --> 00:12:33,319 最深刻的洞察或许能在这里找到 of the last great island improver can be found here. 234 00:12:34,281 --> 00:12:36,365 在艾伦港灯塔的墙上 On the wall of the Port Ellen lighthouse, 235 00:12:36,415 --> 00:12:38,669 沃尔特·弗雷德里克·坎贝尔刻有 Walter Frederick Campbell had a dedication 236 00:12:38,719 --> 00:12:41,052 献给他妻子埃莉诺的题词 carved to his wife, Ellinor. 237 00:12:43,029 --> 00:12:47,196 写道："那些在风暴与狂澜中漂泊的人 It says, "Those who mid storms and tempests stray, 238 00:12:48,453 --> 00:12:50,755 "于危险的午夜时分 "in dangerous midnight hours, 239 00:12:50,805 --> 00:12:54,221 "望见这友善光芒照耀 "behold where shines this friendly ray 240 00:12:54,271 --> 00:12:56,771 "赞颂其守护之力" "and hail its guardian power." 241 00:12:59,557 --> 00:13:03,059 对我而言 此处铭刻的文字 For me, the words inscribed here are not just a tribute 242 00:13:03,109 --> 00:13:04,608 不仅是对爱妻的致敬 to a beloved wife, 243 00:13:04,658 --> 00:13:08,325 也是一座消逝理想的永恒纪念碑 but also a lasting memorial to a lost ideal. 244 00:13:12,447 --> 00:13:15,037 继续前行 我的艾莱之旅接下来带我 Pressing on, my Islay odyssey next brings me 245 00:13:15,087 --> 00:13:17,482 来到迷人的夏洛特镇 to the charming town of Port Charlotte 246 00:13:17,532 --> 00:13:20,615 由沃尔特·弗雷德里克·坎贝尔建立 founded by Walter Frederick Campbell. 247 00:13:23,954 --> 00:13:26,532 我来此探寻一些岛民 I've come here to discover how some islanders, 248 00:13:26,582 --> 00:13:28,915 在过去如何成为法外之徒 in the past, became outlaws. 249 00:13:30,144 --> 00:13:33,719 那时高额税收迫使守法民众 This was a time when high taxes forced law-abiding folk 250 00:13:33,769 --> 00:13:36,706 躲进山区 秘密生产 to take to the hills, to secretly produce 251 00:13:36,756 --> 00:13:40,836 如今岛上最大的出口产品 what is today the island’s biggest export; 252 00:13:40,886 --> 00:13:41,803 威士忌！ Usquebaugh! 253 00:13:45,327 --> 00:13:48,292 政府试图控制威士忌贸易 Government attempts to control the whisky trade 254 00:13:48,342 --> 00:13:52,282 迫使它转入地下 很快非法蒸馏厂 forced it underground, and soon illicit stills 255 00:13:52,332 --> 00:13:54,663 在秘密地点涌现 at secret locations sprang up, 256 00:13:54,713 --> 00:13:56,506 酿造烈酒 to make the hard stuff 257 00:13:56,556 --> 00:13:59,806 然后走私出岛 which was then smuggled off the island. 258 00:14:01,900 --> 00:14:04,200 我被告知在这些漂亮的 I've been told that behind these pretty, 259 00:14:04,250 --> 00:14:07,250 白墙村屋后面 我会找到懂行的人 whitewashed cottages I’ll find someone who knows 260 00:14:07,300 --> 00:14:10,550 了解艾莱式威士忌酿造 all about whisky making, the Islay way. 261 00:14:13,122 --> 00:14:14,039 啊 邓肯 Ah, Duncan. 262 00:14:14,972 --> 00:14:15,755 - 你好吗？ - How are ya? 263 00:14:15,805 --> 00:14:16,850 - 很高兴见到你 - Good to see you. 264 00:14:16,900 --> 00:14:20,041 这位是邓肯·麦吉利夫雷 他将告诉我 This is Duncan McGillivray and he's going to let me in 265 00:14:20,091 --> 00:14:23,737 这门古老艺术的秘密 on the secrets of this ancient art. 266 00:14:23,787 --> 00:14:26,114 这是一个非法蒸馏器 This is an illicit still. 267 00:14:26,164 --> 00:14:27,912 看起来像个希思罗宾逊式的复杂装置 It's quite a Heath Robinson looking contraption, 268 00:14:27,962 --> 00:14:28,810 是吧？ - 是的 isn't it? - Yes. 269 00:14:28,860 --> 00:14:29,768 看起来很原始 Quite primitive looking. 270 00:14:29,818 --> 00:14:32,969 很原始 但相当有效 It's quite primitive but it's quite effective. 271 00:14:33,019 --> 00:14:35,980 - 但在过去 比如200年前 岛上应该有很多 - But back, say 200 years ago, there would have been a lot 272 00:14:36,030 --> 00:14:40,480 这样隐藏的小型非法蒸馏器吧？ of these little illicit stills hidden around the island? 273 00:14:40,530 --> 00:14:42,736 是的 他们可能会把它设置在 Yeah, they probably would have set it up er, 274 00:14:42,786 --> 00:14:44,464 离农场很近的地方 quite close to a farm. 275 00:14:44,514 --> 00:14:46,420 在偏远的地方 那里 In a remote place, where, er, 276 00:14:46,470 --> 00:14:49,637 有充足的水源供应 there was an abundant supply of water. 277 00:14:52,760 --> 00:14:54,438 直到18世纪 Until the 18th century, 278 00:14:54,488 --> 00:14:56,341 只有自然法则限制着 only the laws of nature limited the production 279 00:14:56,391 --> 00:14:58,249 苏格兰高地的威士忌生产 of whisky in the Highlands. 280 00:14:58,299 --> 00:15:01,801 但后来 帝国南部的法律插手了 But then the laws of the imperial south took an interest. 281 00:15:01,851 --> 00:15:06,566 没有许可证并缴税就不得蒸馏 No more distilling without a licence and a duty paid. 282 00:15:06,616 --> 00:15:10,345 高地人无视禁令 继续生产 The Highlander ignored the negative and carried on. 283 00:15:10,395 --> 00:15:11,737 但当他们架起蒸馏器并运行时 But when they had the still up and running, 284 00:15:11,787 --> 00:15:13,609 想必会派人放哨 they presumably had people on the lookout, 285 00:15:13,659 --> 00:15:17,187 站岗守卫 以防税务官逼近 standing guard in case the excise men were closing in. 286 00:15:17,237 --> 00:15:19,203 我 我想是的 没错 I would, I would think so, yes. 287 00:15:19,253 --> 00:15:20,869 是的 他们可以把整套设备打包 Yeah, they could pack the whole lot up 288 00:15:20,919 --> 00:15:22,906 然后立刻转移到新的地点 and move it on to a new site, just like that. 289 00:15:25,704 --> 00:15:27,914 目前还不完全清楚威士忌 It's not entirely clear when whisky 290 00:15:27,964 --> 00:15:31,250 是何时首次在这里蒸馏的 但已知早期的基督教传教士 was first distilled here, but early Christian missionaries 291 00:15:31,300 --> 00:15:35,467 曾生产过aqua vitae（拉丁语）：生命之水 are known to have produced aqua vitae; the water of life. 292 00:15:36,577 --> 00:15:39,329 在这里的泥炭沼泽 纯净河流 And here in the peat bogs, pristine rivers 293 00:15:39,379 --> 00:15:41,609 和肥沃田野中 艾莱岛的农民 and fertile fields Islay’s farmers 294 00:15:41,659 --> 00:15:45,409 在自家门口就拥有所需的一切 had everything they needed on their doorstep. 295 00:15:46,413 --> 00:15:48,687 所以 你们这里确实拥有所有原料 So, you had all the ingredients here really didn’t you, 296 00:15:48,737 --> 00:15:49,520 用于酿造威士忌 对吧？ for whisky making? 297 00:15:49,570 --> 00:15:52,943 - 是的 大麦和水 这是两样主要的东西 - Yeah, barley and water, that’s the two main things. 298 00:15:52,993 --> 00:15:55,081 还有技术诀窍 and the know-how. 299 00:15:55,131 --> 00:15:57,371 取清澈的苏格兰水 Take clear Scottish water, 300 00:15:57,421 --> 00:15:59,868 加入酵母进行糖化和发酵 mash and ferment with yeast. 301 00:15:59,918 --> 00:16:02,473 然后在大锅里煮沸冒泡 Then in a cauldron boil and bubble. 302 00:16:02,523 --> 00:16:05,881 并准备好等待 怀着津津有味 And be prepared to wait, to attend with relishful 303 00:16:05,931 --> 00:16:09,878 但谨慎的耐心 期待奇迹的发生 but wary patience, the working of the miracle. 304 00:16:09,928 --> 00:16:12,437 所以 会用泥炭火煮沸 So, there’ll be a peat fire boiling up. 305 00:16:12,487 --> 00:16:15,394 火会加热蒸馏器里的酒醪 The fire would have heated the wash in the still, 306 00:16:15,444 --> 00:16:17,122 蒸汽上升进入颈部 and the vapour goes up into the neck, 307 00:16:17,172 --> 00:16:19,103 顺着管道进入冷凝器 down the pipe into the condenser. 308 00:16:19,153 --> 00:16:21,131 最终产品会从这里出来 The finish product would come out here. 309 00:16:21,181 --> 00:16:23,435 所以 他们会在那根管子下面放个杯子 So, they would have a cup below that pipe. 310 00:16:23,485 --> 00:16:26,232 会是清澈的 呃 烈酒 原酒 Would be a clear er, spirit, raw spirit. 311 00:16:26,282 --> 00:16:28,680 我猜这玩意儿相当烈 I suspect it was pretty rough stuff. 312 00:16:28,730 --> 00:16:29,513 你试过吗？ Have you tried it? 313 00:16:29,563 --> 00:16:31,513 - 我试过一次 再也不想试了 - I tried it once and never again. 314 00:16:31,563 --> 00:16:33,097 再也不了 Never again. 315 00:16:33,147 --> 00:16:34,092 - 它非常 非常烈吗？ - Was it very, very strong? 316 00:16:34,142 --> 00:16:35,708 - 哦 糟透了 - Oh, was terrible stuff. 317 00:16:35,758 --> 00:16:37,106 太糙了！ It was rough! 318 00:16:37,156 --> 00:16:39,193 它完全没有经过陈酿 Well it's not matured at all. 319 00:16:39,243 --> 00:16:41,254 如果这酒没要了你的命 If the spirit didn’t kill you 320 00:16:41,304 --> 00:16:44,194 那自燃可能会 then spontaneous combustion might. 321 00:16:44,244 --> 00:16:46,661 爆炸并不少见 Explosions were not uncommon. 322 00:16:49,188 --> 00:16:53,322 当然 今天的威士忌生产要安全得多 Of course, whisky production today is much safer 323 00:16:53,372 --> 00:16:54,622 而且是合法的 and it’s legal. 324 00:16:56,004 --> 00:16:58,338 这也是个大产业 It's also big business. 325 00:16:58,388 --> 00:17:00,537 这里有11家蒸馏厂 There are 11 distilleries here 326 00:17:00,587 --> 00:17:04,004 是岛屿闻名遐迩的主要原因 and it's the island’s main claim to fame. 327 00:17:04,920 --> 00:17:07,948 艾莱岛上所有的蒸馏厂都有至少 All the distilleries on Islay have a pedigree going back 328 00:17:07,998 --> 00:17:12,165 100年的历史 除了一家新来的 at least 100 years, with the exception of one newcomer 329 00:17:13,195 --> 00:17:17,777 就是这里的齐侯门 它独特地位于一个农场里 here at Kilchoman, which uniquely is located on a farm. 330 00:17:20,250 --> 00:17:22,372 曾几何时 生产威士忌是 At one time, whisky producing was part 331 00:17:22,422 --> 00:17:24,497 艾莱岛农耕生活的一部分 of farming life on Islay. 332 00:17:24,547 --> 00:17:27,067 而安东尼·威尔斯按照这些传统 And Anthony Wills has set up his distillery 333 00:17:27,117 --> 00:17:29,617 建立了他的蒸馏厂 along these traditional lines. 334 00:17:30,484 --> 00:17:32,629 这里种植大麦 Here barley is grown 335 00:17:32,679 --> 00:17:36,658 切割泥炭 生产威士忌 方式与 peat is cut and whisky produced, in much the same way 336 00:17:36,708 --> 00:17:39,634 早期大致相同 as it was in the early days. 337 00:17:39,684 --> 00:17:41,905 - 我当时想做的是 - What I was looking to do was to, 338 00:17:41,955 --> 00:17:43,848 重现蒸馏在苏格兰 to replicate how distilling really started 339 00:17:43,898 --> 00:17:46,008 许多年前真正开始的方式 in Scotland all those years ago, 340 00:17:46,058 --> 00:17:48,008 当时 呃 农民们种一点大麦 when er, farmers grew a little bit of barley, 341 00:17:48,058 --> 00:17:52,652 他们喂养牲畜 也酿造一些威士忌 they fed their livestock and also made some whisky as well. 342 00:17:52,702 --> 00:17:56,044 150-200年前 艾莱岛上有超过30家农场蒸馏厂 150, 200 years ago, there were over 30 farm distilleries 343 00:17:56,094 --> 00:17:58,901 呃 注册的蒸馏厂 here on Islay, um, registered distilleries. 344 00:17:58,951 --> 00:18:01,685 呃 我们在齐侯门这里真正做的 Er, and really what we’re doing here at Kilchoman 345 00:18:01,735 --> 00:18:04,661 就是重现他们所做的 种植大麦 is replicating what they did, and growing the barley, 346 00:18:04,711 --> 00:18:06,316 发麦芽 蒸馏 malting it, distilling it, 347 00:18:06,366 --> 00:18:09,173 陈酿和装瓶都在这里完成 全部在现场 maturing it and bottling it here all on site. 348 00:18:09,223 --> 00:18:12,952 这是124年来艾莱岛上的第一家新蒸馏厂 This is the first distillery for 124 years on Islay. 349 00:18:13,002 --> 00:18:14,824 人们当时肯定觉得你疯了 肯定的 People must have thought you were nuts, surely. 350 00:18:14,874 --> 00:18:16,778 我知道 我知道 他们肯定这么想 I know, I know, definitely they did. 351 00:18:16,828 --> 00:18:19,890 秉承早期威士忌先驱的精神 In the spirit of those early whisky pioneers, 352 00:18:19,940 --> 00:18:22,756 安东尼不得不处理锅炉爆炸 Anthony’s had to deal with exploding boilers, 353 00:18:22,806 --> 00:18:26,896 火灾以及他应得份额的试错 a fire and his fair share of trial and error. 354 00:18:26,946 --> 00:18:28,613 那么 值得吗？ So, was it worth it? 355 00:18:30,231 --> 00:18:31,898 干杯！ Slainte! 356 00:18:34,830 --> 00:18:38,397 - 嗯 果味十足且清淡 我会这么说 - Mmm, fruity and light, I would say. 357 00:18:38,447 --> 00:18:39,795 似乎是这样 It would seem so, 358 00:18:39,845 --> 00:18:42,931 我绝对有这种印象 艾莱岛民 and I definitely get the impression that Islay folk 359 00:18:42,981 --> 00:18:45,314 喜欢按自己的方式做事 like to do things their way. 360 00:18:46,402 --> 00:18:48,352 这不仅仅体现在他们 And that's not just in their novel approach 361 00:18:48,402 --> 00:18:50,222 生产优质威士忌的新颖方法上 to producing great whisky. 362 00:18:50,272 --> 00:18:53,632 过去 他们还有一种相当独特的方法 In the past, they’ve also had a rather unique approach 363 00:18:53,682 --> 00:18:54,765 对待牙科 to dentistry. 364 00:18:57,199 --> 00:18:59,882 如果说需要是发明之母 If necessity is the mother of invention, 365 00:18:59,932 --> 00:19:01,610 那么绝望 surely then desperation must surely 366 00:19:01,660 --> 00:19:04,717 是迷信的祖母 be the grandmother of superstition. 367 00:19:04,767 --> 00:19:06,637 现在 我来告诉你我的意思 Now, I’ll show you what I mean, 368 00:19:06,687 --> 00:19:09,975 因为这块奇怪的牙齿形状的石头 because this strange tooth shaped stone 369 00:19:10,025 --> 00:19:11,998 是岛民们来的地方 is a place where islanders came 370 00:19:12,048 --> 00:19:14,016 当他们绝对绝望 when they're absolutely desperate 371 00:19:14,066 --> 00:19:16,621 并遭受牙痛折磨时 and suffering from the agonies of toothache. 372 00:19:16,671 --> 00:19:20,004 当时的想法是来到这里 Now, the idea was to come down here and, 373 00:19:21,327 --> 00:19:24,577 用一颗钉子和一把锤子 我带来了 with a nail and a hammer, which I have. 374 00:19:28,034 --> 00:19:30,444 用你的锤子把钉子钉进岩石 Drive the nail into the rock with your hammer 375 00:19:30,494 --> 00:19:32,965 就能治好你的牙痛 and cure your toothache. 376 00:19:33,015 --> 00:19:35,463 我不确定这有多成功 I'm not sure how successful it was, 377 00:19:35,513 --> 00:19:38,461 但这里的钉子数量表明确实有一些人 but the number of nails here suggest a few folks 378 00:19:38,511 --> 00:19:41,184 尝试过 certainly gave it a try. 379 00:19:41,234 --> 00:19:44,077 我想 如果你不小心砸到拇指 And I suppose, if you did accidentally hit your thumb, 380 00:19:44,127 --> 00:19:47,077 至少它能让你忘记牙痛！ at least it would take your mind off your toothache! 381 00:19:48,099 --> 00:19:48,932 嗷！ Ow! 382 00:19:50,481 --> 00:19:52,225 牙齿石是艾莱岛上 The tooth stone is one of the more 383 00:19:52,275 --> 00:19:54,909 较为不寻常的古迹之一 unusual ancient monuments on Islay, 384 00:19:54,959 --> 00:19:56,277 岛上遍布着 which is daunted with relics 385 00:19:56,327 --> 00:20:00,327 追溯至6000年前的人类居住遗迹 of human occupation stretching back 6,000 years. 386 00:20:02,003 --> 00:20:05,578 为了探寻这段丰富迷人的过去 In search of this rich and fascinating past, 387 00:20:05,628 --> 00:20:08,445 贝基·威廉姆森给自己设定了挑战 Becky Williamson set herself the challenge 388 00:20:08,495 --> 00:20:12,162 走遍岛上的每一个网格区域 of visiting every grid square on the island. 389 00:20:13,836 --> 00:20:17,514 - 我几乎走遍了艾莱岛的每个地方 - I've walked virtually everywhere on Islay, 390 00:20:17,564 --> 00:20:20,065 嗯 我走完了整个海岸线 um, I've done the whole coastline. 391 00:20:20,115 --> 00:20:21,830 花了我四年时间 Which took me four years. 392 00:20:21,880 --> 00:20:25,280 然后我决定走遍每一个网格区域 And then I decided I’d do every single grid square. 393 00:20:25,330 --> 00:20:26,290 收集网格区域？ Collect the grid squares? 394 00:20:26,340 --> 00:20:27,129 收集网格区域 Collect the grid squares. 395 00:20:27,179 --> 00:20:27,977 总共有多少个？ And how many of those are there? 396 00:20:28,027 --> 00:20:28,860 - 743个 - 743. 397 00:20:29,950 --> 00:20:31,331 这是我用的地图 This is the map that I used. 398 00:20:31,381 --> 00:20:32,610 全都涂上颜色了 It's all colored in. 399 00:20:32,660 --> 00:20:34,335 - 所有绿色的都是你 你已经走过的 - Everything green that you, you’ve done. 400 00:20:34,385 --> 00:20:37,010 - 所有绿色的都是我走过的区域 - Everything green is the ones I've done. 401 00:20:37,060 --> 00:20:37,843 你都走完了吗？ And have you done them all? 402 00:20:37,893 --> 00:20:40,156 我已经走了741个 And I've done 741. 403 00:20:40,206 --> 00:20:42,885 所以 所以我还有两个没走 So, so I've got two left. 404 00:20:42,935 --> 00:20:44,507 有没有一个地方是你最推荐 Is there one spot you’d recommend 405 00:20:44,557 --> 00:20:47,812 游客去的 高于所有其他地方的？ a visitor to go to, above all? 406 00:20:47,862 --> 00:20:48,759 高于所有？ Above all? 407 00:20:48,809 --> 00:20:49,592 是的 Yeah. 408 00:20:49,642 --> 00:20:51,862 - 大概是奥半岛的士兵岩 - Probably Soldiers Rock on the Oa. 409 00:20:51,912 --> 00:20:54,001 那是一个非常壮观的地方 It's a very spectacular place. 410 00:20:56,297 --> 00:20:59,380 - 我们正前往网格区域NR2947 - We’re headed to grid square NR2947, 411 00:21:00,399 --> 00:21:03,232 又名奥角 otherwise known as the Mull of Oa. 412 00:21:04,300 --> 00:21:06,890 你可以步行去那里 但最好的方式 You can walk there, but the best way 413 00:21:06,940 --> 00:21:10,773 欣赏这壮观的景色是乘船 to appreciate the dramatic scenery is by boat. 414 00:21:14,079 --> 00:21:15,960 这是一片狂野的海岸线 不是吗？ It's a wild coastline, isn’t it really? 415 00:21:16,010 --> 00:21:16,918 - 哦 是的 - Oh, it is. 416 00:21:16,968 --> 00:21:18,051 太神奇了！ It's amazing! 417 00:21:19,278 --> 00:21:21,027 而要到达士兵岩 And to get to Soldiers Rock, 418 00:21:21,077 --> 00:21:22,755 就像电影里从不说的那样 as they never say in the movies, 419 00:21:22,805 --> 00:21:25,722 我们需要一艘更小的船 we’re going to need a smaller boat. 420 00:21:29,096 --> 00:21:32,346 最后我们抵达了士兵岩 And finally we arrive at Soldiers Rock. 421 00:21:33,821 --> 00:21:36,268 它到底为什么叫士兵岩 Why on earth is it called a Soldiers Rock. 422 00:21:36,318 --> 00:21:38,537 - 嗯 稍微发挥点想象力 - Well, with a bit of imagination, 423 00:21:38,587 --> 00:21:42,911 你就能看到一个清晰的士兵形状 you can see the distinct shape of a soldier. 424 00:21:42,961 --> 00:21:44,362 - 那需要很大的想象力 - You’d need a lot of imagination. 425 00:21:44,412 --> 00:21:46,945 - 那是他的头 他的鼻子 还有他的 - There's his head and his nose and his, 426 00:21:46,995 --> 00:21:48,618 他竖起的剑 his sword sticking up. 427 00:21:48,668 --> 00:21:50,020 还有他的盔甲 And his armour. 428 00:21:50,070 --> 00:21:51,450 它看起来像个士兵 And it looks like a soldier. 429 00:21:51,500 --> 00:21:53,263 - 我确实看到一条白色的石英带 - I do see a white band of quartz. 430 00:21:53,313 --> 00:21:54,656 是的 很漂亮 不是吗？ Yes, it's lovely, isn’t it? 431 00:21:54,706 --> 00:21:56,752 是的 我可以想象那可能是他的腰带 Yeah, I can imagine that might be his belt. 432 00:21:56,802 --> 00:21:58,271 那是他的腰带 That’s his belt. 433 00:21:58,321 --> 00:22:01,604 - 说实话 我真的没看出士兵的样子 - To be honest, I'm not really getting the soldier thing, 434 00:22:01,654 --> 00:22:04,821 但这确实是一个令人印象深刻的海蚀柱 but this is an impressive sea stack. 435 00:22:04,871 --> 00:22:07,747 我想它像哨兵一样站立守卫着 I suppose it's standing like a sentinel on guard. 436 00:22:07,797 --> 00:22:11,489 - 呃 是的 它 是的 就是这样 没错 - Er, yes, it, yes, that’s what it is, yeah. 437 00:22:11,539 --> 00:22:13,720 它守卫的是另一个 What he's guarding is another 438 00:22:13,770 --> 00:22:15,966 非凡的自然现象 remarkable natural phenomenon, 439 00:22:16,016 --> 00:22:18,849 由大海在岩石上雕刻而成 carved out of the rock by the sea. 440 00:22:19,795 --> 00:22:23,118 我们即将进入 进入这个洞穴 And we’re about to enter into, into the cave. 441 00:22:23,168 --> 00:22:25,470 太棒了 不是吗？ It's wonderful, isn’t it? 442 00:22:25,520 --> 00:22:27,422 它其实更像一个拱门而不是洞穴 It's actually more of an arch than a cave. 443 00:22:27,472 --> 00:22:28,456 它更像一个拱门 It's more of an arch 444 00:22:28,506 --> 00:22:29,630 你可以走过那个拱门 and you can walk over that arch, 445 00:22:29,680 --> 00:22:33,681 我走过很多次 相当吓人 which I've done lots of times, and it's quite scary. 446 00:22:33,731 --> 00:22:34,987 - 多么神奇的地方 - What an amazing place. 447 00:22:35,037 --> 00:22:38,067 真正让它壮观的是阳光 What makes it really spectacular is the sunlight 448 00:22:38,117 --> 00:22:41,550 照射在岩壁上的铜矿条纹上 hitting the streaks of copper ore on the rock face. 449 00:22:41,600 --> 00:22:43,314 那铜绿真绿啊 不是吗？ That copper is so green, isn’t it? 450 00:22:43,364 --> 00:22:46,816 不是吗 真的很鲜艳 Isn’t it, it's really vivid. 451 00:22:46,866 --> 00:22:47,949 太神奇了！ It's amazing! 452 00:22:54,259 --> 00:22:55,957 尽管这里令人印象深刻 Impressive though this is, 453 00:22:56,007 --> 00:22:58,597 我听说当涌浪变大时 I'm told that when the swell picks up, 454 00:22:58,647 --> 00:23:01,897 这个洞穴就无法逃脱了 this cave is impossible to escape from. 455 00:23:04,442 --> 00:23:06,622 所以 是我继续前进的时候了 So, it's time for me to move on, 456 00:23:06,672 --> 00:23:09,781 沿着海岸前往艾莱岛的西北部 heading round the coast to the north west of Islay. 457 00:23:09,831 --> 00:23:12,572 以及美丽的格鲁纳特湖 And beautiful Loch Gruinart. 458 00:23:12,622 --> 00:23:16,789 退潮时 会留下这片广阔的沙滩 When the tide goes out, it leaves this vast expanse of sand. 459 00:23:18,624 --> 00:23:20,491 这是寻找一种昂贵美味佳肴的 This is one of the best places 460 00:23:20,541 --> 00:23:22,654 最佳地点之一 to find an expensive delicacy 461 00:23:22,704 --> 00:23:25,467 令人惊讶的是 它曾一度是主食 that surprisingly was once a staple 462 00:23:25,517 --> 00:23:29,684 不仅是这些岛民的主食 也是苏格兰许多地区的主食 not just for these islanders, but in many parts of Scotland. 463 00:23:32,919 --> 00:23:34,517 根据考古学家的说法 According to archaeologists, 464 00:23:34,567 --> 00:23:38,487 过去牡蛎构成了国民饮食的 in the past oysters formed a significant part 465 00:23:38,537 --> 00:23:40,287 重要部分 of the national diet. 466 00:23:42,269 --> 00:23:45,064 我有点怀疑这座岛上的善良民众 I somehow doubt the good folk of this island 467 00:23:45,114 --> 00:23:48,350 会就着香槟吃牡蛎 quaffed champagne with their oysters. 468 00:23:48,400 --> 00:23:51,722 但到了20世纪 过度捕捞和疾病 But by the 20th century, overfishing and disease 469 00:23:51,772 --> 00:23:54,187 导致牡蛎数量减少 saw oyster numbers dwindle. 470 00:23:54,237 --> 00:23:58,404 到1950年代 苏格兰本土牡蛎已经灭绝 By the 1950s, the native Scottish oyster was extinct. 471 00:24:01,027 --> 00:24:02,670 但在格鲁纳特湖这里 But here in Loch Gruinart, 472 00:24:02,720 --> 00:24:05,236 克雷格·阿奇博尔德经营着一项家族生意 Craig Archibald is running a family business 473 00:24:05,286 --> 00:24:09,119 让牡蛎重返这些海岸 that has brought oysters back to these shores. 474 00:24:12,284 --> 00:24:13,990 哦 它们在那儿 Oh, there they are. 475 00:24:14,040 --> 00:24:14,960 我能捡起来吗？ Can I pick them up? 476 00:24:15,010 --> 00:24:16,510 是的 嗯 Yes, um. 477 00:24:19,466 --> 00:24:21,289 所以 这是一只一岁的牡蛎 So, and that’s a year old oyster. 478 00:24:21,339 --> 00:24:22,801 那是什么种类的牡蛎？ What kind of oyster is that? 479 00:24:22,851 --> 00:24:25,392 是太平洋巨牡蛎 It's a giga pacific oyster, 480 00:24:25,442 --> 00:24:28,569 最常养殖的品种 the most commonly cultivated. 481 00:24:28,619 --> 00:24:30,371 受他在太平洋牡蛎上取得成功的鼓舞 Encouraged by the success he's had 482 00:24:30,421 --> 00:24:32,698 克雷格想要 with pacific oysters, Craig would like to 483 00:24:32,748 --> 00:24:36,915 重建这些水域的本土品种 re-establish the breed indigenous to these waters. 484 00:24:39,014 --> 00:24:43,758 苏格兰本土的欧洲牡蛎 一岁大 The native Scottish European oyster, one year old. 485 00:24:43,808 --> 00:24:46,135 它真是个非常小的家伙 Now he really is a tiny little fellow, 486 00:24:46,185 --> 00:24:47,178 我不得不说 I have to say. 487 00:24:47,228 --> 00:24:49,290 知道还要多久才能吃它吗？ Any idea how long it’ll be before you can eat that? 488 00:24:49,340 --> 00:24:50,996 是的 我想大概要三四年 Yeah, I imagine it’ll be three or four years. 489 00:24:51,046 --> 00:24:51,991 对 Right. 490 00:24:52,041 --> 00:24:54,788 它们可能比太平洋牡蛎生长得更慢 They may take longer to grow than the pacific oyster, 491 00:24:54,838 --> 00:24:58,353 但克雷格希望他的耐心会得到回报 but Craig is hoping his patience will pay off. 492 00:24:58,403 --> 00:25:02,449 - 我听说本土牡蛎 稍微甜一点 - I'm told the native oysters are, are slightly sweeter, 493 00:25:02,499 --> 00:25:04,570 但我们 我们可能还要一两年才能知道 but we, we might be a year or two before we find out. 494 00:25:04,620 --> 00:25:05,841 - 好的 但值得等待 - Right, but be worth the wait. 495 00:25:05,891 --> 00:25:06,674 - 我确信它们会值得的 - 我想是的 - I'm sure they will be. - I’d imagine, 496 00:25:06,724 --> 00:25:08,416 你觉得那会是一顿好的早餐吗？ and do you think that would make a good breakfast? 497 00:25:08,466 --> 00:25:10,980 - 是的 一天中的任何时间都可以 - Yes, all times of day. 498 00:25:11,030 --> 00:25:14,227 - 以前从未试过牡蛎 但是 呃 你知道 - Never tried an oyster before, but er, you know, 499 00:25:14,277 --> 00:25:16,326 现在或许是时候了 now could be the time. 500 00:25:16,376 --> 00:25:18,080 引用乔纳森·斯威夫特的话 To quote Jonathan Swift, 501 00:25:18,130 --> 00:25:21,859 "第一个吃牡蛎的人是个勇敢的人" "It was a bold man that first ate an oyster." 502 00:25:21,909 --> 00:25:25,493 显然 路易十四喜欢把它们当早餐 And apparently, Louis XIV liked them for breakfast. 503 00:25:25,543 --> 00:25:28,278 所以 如果它对皇室来说都足够好 So, if it was good enough for royalty. 504 00:25:28,328 --> 00:25:29,961 - 如果你等一两分钟 汁液会流出来 - And if you wait a minute or two the juices come out 505 00:25:30,011 --> 00:25:31,539 那其实就是你的牡蛎汁 of that and that’s actually your oyster liquor. 506 00:25:31,589 --> 00:25:34,213 好的 牡蛎汁 Right, oyster liquor. 507 00:25:34,263 --> 00:25:35,935 再来一点本地烈酒 And a spot of local liquor 508 00:25:35,985 --> 00:25:38,902 可能会让它更容易下咽 might make it go down a bit easier. 509 00:25:39,869 --> 00:25:41,403 给你 There we go. 510 00:25:41,453 --> 00:25:44,593 - 这是我人生中第一次吃牡蛎 坦白说 - This is my very first ever oyster and frankly, 511 00:25:44,643 --> 00:25:46,062 我有点紧张 I'm a little bit nervous. 512 00:25:46,112 --> 00:25:46,984 来了 Here we go. 513 00:25:47,034 --> 00:25:48,617 膝盖在发抖 Knees are knocking. 514 00:25:54,866 --> 00:25:56,360 其实 很好吃 Actually, that’s delicious. 515 00:25:56,410 --> 00:25:57,437 很好吃 It is delicious. 516 00:25:59,130 --> 00:26:00,447 哦 真是个勇敢的人！ Oh, what a brave man! 517 00:26:00,497 --> 00:26:01,948 是的 还不错 是吧 肉很厚实 Yeah, it's not bad, is it, it's very meaty. 518 00:26:01,998 --> 00:26:03,337 呃 你没料到它会 会 会？ Er, you didn’t expect it to, to, to? 519 00:26:03,387 --> 00:26:04,802 - 不 不 不 它比我想象的要肉质厚实得多 - No, no, no, it's much meatier than I thought. 520 00:26:04,852 --> 00:26:06,347 口感不是 不是你想象的那样 The texture’s not, not what you imagined it was gonna be. 521 00:26:06,397 --> 00:26:07,230 - 哇！ - Wow! 522 00:26:08,097 --> 00:26:12,264 据说拿破仑在战前会吃下十几只牡蛎 They say Napoleon downed a dozen oysters before battle. 523 00:26:15,947 --> 00:26:17,700 同样精神焕发的我 Similarly invigorated, 524 00:26:17,750 --> 00:26:21,917 出发开始长途跋涉 前往我的最终目的地 I set off on the long march to my final destination. 525 00:26:23,316 --> 00:26:27,010 艾莱岛的最高点 维克山 The highest point on Islay; Ben Vicar. 526 00:26:27,060 --> 00:26:30,644 海拔超过1600英尺 它不算一座蒙罗山 At over 1,600 feet, it's not a Munro. 527 00:26:30,694 --> 00:26:32,861 这实际上是一座玛莉莲山 This is in fact a Marilyn. 528 00:26:34,248 --> 00:26:38,959 让我解释一下 蒙罗山是海拔超过3000英尺的山 Now let me explain, Munros are mountains over 3000 feet, 529 00:26:39,009 --> 00:26:42,956 蒙罗山收集者想爬完所有的283座 and Munro baggers want to climb all 283 of them. 530 00:26:43,006 --> 00:26:45,007 但这些并不是苏格兰 But these are not the only collectible mountains 531 00:26:45,057 --> 00:26:46,057 唯一可收集的山峰 in Scotland. 532 00:26:48,897 --> 00:26:51,884 接下来要打卡的山峰名单是科贝特山 The next list of summits to tick off are the Corbetts. 533 00:26:51,934 --> 00:26:55,191 这些是海拔低于3000英尺 Now these are peaks less than 3,000 feet 534 00:26:55,241 --> 00:26:56,908 但高于2500英尺的山峰 but over 2,500 feet. 535 00:26:58,396 --> 00:27:01,646 在那之后 还有格雷厄姆山 And after that, you’ve got the Grahams. 536 00:27:06,733 --> 00:27:09,144 然后你还有唐纳德山 And then you’ve got the Donalds, 537 00:27:09,194 --> 00:27:12,300 或者有时被称为埃尔西山 or Elsies as they're sometimes known. 538 00:27:12,350 --> 00:27:15,530 最后但同样重要的 还有玛莉莲山 And last but not least, you’ve got the Marilyns. 539 00:27:15,580 --> 00:27:18,755 玛莉莲山是指任何从山顶算起 And a Marilyn is any mountain with a drop of 500 feet 540 00:27:18,805 --> 00:27:21,145 相对高度有500英尺或以上的山 or more from the top. 541 00:27:21,195 --> 00:27:24,862 而维克山就是这些卓越山峰中的一座 And Ben Vicar is one of these sublime peaks. 542 00:27:26,463 --> 00:27:29,571 但如果你想看到艾莱岛的全部辉煌 But if you want to see Islay in all its glory, 543 00:27:29,621 --> 00:27:31,788 这里就是该来的地方 this is the place to come. 544 00:27:33,292 --> 00:27:35,776 如果你爬山还没喘不过气来 And if you're not out of breath from the climb, 545 00:27:35,826 --> 00:27:38,021 山顶的景色保证 the view from the top is guaranteed 546 00:27:38,071 --> 00:27:40,154 会让你惊叹不已 to take your breath away. 547 00:27:41,295 --> 00:27:42,768 越来越令人兴奋了 It's getting very exciting. 548 00:27:42,818 --> 00:27:46,485 马上就要征服我的第一座玛莉莲山了 Just about to conquer my very first Marilyn. 549 00:27:52,895 --> 00:27:54,410 我们到了 Here we go. 550 00:27:54,460 --> 00:27:55,859 唷！ Phew! 551 00:27:55,909 --> 00:27:57,297 哇！ Wow! 552 00:27:57,347 --> 00:28:01,411 感觉太棒了 景色绝对壮丽 Fantastic feeling and an absolutely magnificent view. 553 00:28:01,461 --> 00:28:03,475 那边是北爱尔兰 Northern Ireland over there. 554 00:28:03,525 --> 00:28:04,988 金泰尔角 The Mull of Kintyre. 555 00:28:05,038 --> 00:28:07,699 我能看到阿伦岛上的戈特费尔山 I can see the mountains of Goatfell on Arran. 556 00:28:07,749 --> 00:28:09,587 在我身后是克鲁亨本山 Behind me I've got Ben Cruachan, 557 00:28:09,637 --> 00:28:13,220 当然还有壮丽的朱拉峰 and of course the magnificent Paps of Jura. 558 00:28:14,524 --> 00:28:18,829 就在下方视线之外的是芬拉根 And just out of sight down there is Finlaggan, 559 00:28:18,879 --> 00:28:20,819 就在艾莱岛的中心 right at the heart of Islay, 560 00:28:20,869 --> 00:28:24,554 曾是一个非凡帝国的中心 once the center of an extraordinary empire 561 00:28:24,604 --> 00:28:27,420 由一个自认为 ruled over by a people who consider themselves 562 00:28:27,470 --> 00:28:29,053 与众不同的民族统治 to be a race apart. 563 00:28:37,432 --> 00:28:41,599 请加入我的下一次环岛之旅 探索一片英雄之地 Join me on my next grand tour exploring a land of heroes.