1 00:00:06,511 --> 00:00:08,794 - 有些岛屿如此偏远 - There are some islands that are so remote 2 00:00:08,844 --> 00:00:10,605 与大陆相隔甚远 and distant from the mainland, 3 00:00:10,655 --> 00:00:14,704 它们仿佛被世界遗忘 they seem almost forgotten by the rest of the world. 4 00:00:14,754 --> 00:00:19,011 难以想象 在陆地视野之外 It's incredible to think that beyond the sight of any land, 5 00:00:19,061 --> 00:00:23,249 远在地平线尽头 在最意想不到之处 way over the horizon, and in the most unlikely places, 6 00:00:23,299 --> 00:00:27,126 存在着先祖曾居住安家 there are tiny islands where our ancestors once lived 7 00:00:27,176 --> 00:00:29,007 的微小岛屿 and made their homes. 8 00:00:31,031 --> 00:00:34,940 本系列中 我将继续我的环岛之旅 In this series, I'm continuing my island grand tour, 9 00:00:34,990 --> 00:00:37,808 探访设得兰群岛最北端 visiting the most northerly of the Shetland Islands, 10 00:00:37,858 --> 00:00:41,604 探索外赫布里底群岛 并揭开 exploring the Outer Hebrides and discovering the secrets 11 00:00:41,654 --> 00:00:44,437 不列颠最荒僻之地的秘密 of the loneliest places in Britain. 12 00:00:44,487 --> 00:00:48,303 这样隔水相望 太震撼了！ To see them through the water like this, it's amazing! 13 00:00:48,353 --> 00:00:51,426 苏格兰拥有众多瑰丽岛屿 Scotland boasts a wonderful array of islands. 14 00:00:51,476 --> 00:00:54,735 实际上有近300座 In fact, there are nearly 300 of them. 15 00:00:54,785 --> 00:00:57,452 这还不包括环绕6000英里海岸线 And that's not counting the myriad of stacks, 16 00:00:57,502 --> 00:01:01,457 从大西洋延伸到北海的 rocks and skerries that surround 6,000 miles of coast, 17 00:01:01,507 --> 00:01:05,007 无数岩柱 礁石与孤岩 from the Atlantic Ocean, to the North Sea. 18 00:01:08,150 --> 00:01:11,072 这次旅程我将在苏格兰 For this grand tour I'm seeking solitude 19 00:01:11,122 --> 00:01:15,205 最小最偏远的岛屿中寻找幽静 amongst Scotland's smallest and remotest islands. 20 00:01:27,634 --> 00:01:31,276 离开哈里斯岛 我的路线横跨赫布里底海 Leaving Harris, my route crosses the sea of the Hebrides, 21 00:01:31,326 --> 00:01:34,224 造访仙特群岛 visits the archipelago of the Shiants, 22 00:01:34,274 --> 00:01:37,028 东行至浪漫的尤岛 heads east to the romantic Isle of Ewe, 23 00:01:37,078 --> 00:01:40,578 最终抵达海鸟之城汉达岛 and finishes on the seabird city of Handa. 24 00:01:46,099 --> 00:01:48,522 仙特群岛位于明奇海峡中部 The Shiants lie in the middle of the Minch, 25 00:01:48,572 --> 00:01:51,227 这片水域将外赫布里底群岛 the stretch of water that separates the Outer Hebrides 26 00:01:51,277 --> 00:01:53,201 与斯凯岛及大陆隔开 from Skye and the mainland. 27 00:01:53,251 --> 00:01:57,798 我将从哈里斯岛乘快艇前往 To get there, I'm taking a fast rib from Harris. 28 00:01:57,848 --> 00:02:00,178 那边就是仙特群岛 That's the Shiants over there. 29 00:02:00,228 --> 00:02:01,943 嶙峋的破碎陆地 Jagged fragments of land 30 00:02:01,993 --> 00:02:04,741 如断裂的牙齿矗立在地平线上 that look like broken teeth on the horizon. 31 00:02:07,269 --> 00:02:11,085 这些无人居住的小岛如今看似偏远 These tiny, uninhabited islands seem remote to us today, 32 00:02:11,135 --> 00:02:13,302 但在航海为主导的时代 but when sea travel was king, 33 00:02:13,352 --> 00:02:16,878 仙特群岛曾位于重要航线的中心 the Shiants were in the middle of an important sea lane 34 00:02:16,928 --> 00:02:21,095 人们在这些美丽岛屿上生活了数世纪 and people lived on these beautiful islands for centuries. 35 00:02:22,025 --> 00:02:24,564 但如今因其偏远 But today, because of their remoteness, 36 00:02:24,614 --> 00:02:26,197 鲜有人至 they are seldom visited. 37 00:02:28,639 --> 00:02:32,490 仙特群岛的常驻居民早已离开 The permanent human population of the Shiants left long ago, 38 00:02:32,540 --> 00:02:34,475 结束了长达数千年 ending a history of habitation 39 00:02:34,525 --> 00:02:37,111 的居住史 that goes back thousands of years. 40 00:02:37,161 --> 00:02:39,286 铁器时代先民 凯尔特僧侣 Iron Age people, Celtic monks 41 00:02:39,336 --> 00:02:42,503 与维京人都在此留下印记 and Vikings all left an imprint here. 42 00:02:47,325 --> 00:02:49,655 继续东行穿越明奇海峡 Continuing east across the Minch, 43 00:02:49,705 --> 00:02:53,705 我朝向大陆与尤岛进发 I head towards the mainland and the Isle of Ewe. 44 00:02:55,290 --> 00:02:57,713 我爱你 我爱你 我爱你 I love you, I love you, I love you. 45 00:02:57,763 --> 00:03:01,822 说谎是罪过 因为当你说出 It's a sin to tell a lie, because when you say it, 46 00:03:01,872 --> 00:03:05,793 "尤岛"时 听起来像求婚誓言 Isle of Ewe, it sounds like a proposal of marriage, 47 00:03:05,843 --> 00:03:07,720 这或许解释了为何众多 which perhaps explains why it's been known 48 00:03:07,770 --> 00:03:11,343 热恋男女会专程奔赴海岸 for love-struck men and women to beat a path 49 00:03:11,393 --> 00:03:14,698 在此许下婚约 to its shores to pop the question. 50 00:03:14,748 --> 00:03:17,748 就在那边 尤岛上 Just over there, on the Isle of Ewe. 51 00:03:20,506 --> 00:03:22,987 这座长两公里宽一公里的岛屿 There's no public ferry service to the island, 52 00:03:23,037 --> 00:03:27,179 没有公共渡轮服务 which is just two kilometers long by a kilometer wide. 53 00:03:27,229 --> 00:03:31,428 简·格兰特正自驾船从大陆而来 Skippering her own boat from the mainland is Jane Grant. 54 00:03:31,478 --> 00:03:34,714 简曾作为轮机员航行世界 Jane once sailed the world as a ship's engineer 55 00:03:34,764 --> 00:03:37,453 远洋商船 on ocean-going merchant ships. 56 00:03:37,503 --> 00:03:39,102 她与尤岛的浪漫情缘 Her own romantic connections 57 00:03:39,152 --> 00:03:43,363 始于丈夫求婚之时 with the Isle of Ewe began when her husband proposed. 58 00:03:43,413 --> 00:03:47,380 - 我在卡拉奇的船上遇见丈夫 - I met my husband on a ship in Karachi, 59 00:03:47,430 --> 00:03:49,563 他来自这座岛屿 and he's from this island. 60 00:03:49,613 --> 00:03:52,152 有位共同朋友在我出发前来电 Now a mutual friend phoned me up 61 00:03:52,202 --> 00:03:55,205 说"代我向威利·格兰特问好 before I went out and said, oh, give my regards 62 00:03:55,255 --> 00:03:58,909 他是个好小伙 你会喜欢他的" to Willie Grant, he's a nice bloke, he said you'll like him. 63 00:03:58,959 --> 00:04:00,882 - 真的？ - 我敷衍答应 - Really? - And I said yeah, right. 64 00:04:01,826 --> 00:04:06,595 我完全没打算坠入爱河 I had absolutely no intentions of falling in love 65 00:04:06,645 --> 00:04:09,044 或与任何人发展关系 or having a relationship with anybody at all, 66 00:04:09,094 --> 00:04:10,704 但缘分妙不可言 but there you go. 67 00:04:10,754 --> 00:04:12,063 我们一见投缘 - 他在船上做什么工作？ We just hit it off. - What was his job on board? 68 00:04:12,113 --> 00:04:13,166 - 他是报务员 - He's a radio officer. 69 00:04:13,216 --> 00:04:15,221 - 所以他在上层搞通讯 - So he was upstairs on the airwaves 70 00:04:15,271 --> 00:04:16,289 而你则在底层 and you were down in the, 71 00:04:16,339 --> 00:04:17,229 机房深处 - 没错 in the depths. - That's right. 72 00:04:17,279 --> 00:04:18,062 是这样 That's right. 73 00:04:18,112 --> 00:04:18,895 - 维护引擎 - Maintaining the engines. 74 00:04:18,945 --> 00:04:19,728 - 是的 - Yeah, yeah. 75 00:04:19,778 --> 00:04:20,793 - 看来你们还是波长一致了 - So you managed to get on the same wavelength then. 76 00:04:27,683 --> 00:04:29,363 格兰特家族自19世纪中叶起 The Grants have been tenant farmers 77 00:04:29,413 --> 00:04:33,345 便是尤岛的佃农 on the Isle of Ewe since the middle of the 19th century. 78 00:04:33,395 --> 00:04:35,516 简移居岛上后不久 Shortly after Jane moved to the island, 79 00:04:35,566 --> 00:04:37,118 为补贴家计开始从事 she took up scallop farming 80 00:04:37,168 --> 00:04:40,613 扇贝养殖 to help with the family finances. 81 00:04:40,663 --> 00:04:43,690 但多年来野生扇贝存量 But over the years, the wild scallop stocks 82 00:04:43,740 --> 00:04:46,116 及西海岸整体生物量 and the whole biomass of the west coast 83 00:04:46,166 --> 00:04:49,077 已严重枯竭 have been seriously depleted. 84 00:04:49,127 --> 00:04:52,153 - 20年前若想养殖扇贝 - 20 years ago if you wanted to do scallop farming, 85 00:04:52,203 --> 00:04:53,674 你会投放卵袋 you would put spat bags out, 86 00:04:53,724 --> 00:04:55,764 基本就是洋葱袋那种 which were basically like onion bags. 87 00:04:55,814 --> 00:04:57,331 在每年合适时节 And you would put them out in the sea 88 00:04:57,381 --> 00:04:58,806 放入海中 at the right time of the year, 89 00:04:58,856 --> 00:05:01,105 微小扇贝会附着其上 and tiny little scallops would settle on them. 90 00:05:01,155 --> 00:05:04,808 但现在我放卵袋 根本收不到扇贝 But now, if I put spat bags out, I get no scallops back. 91 00:05:04,858 --> 00:05:05,641 - 真的？ - Really? 92 00:05:05,691 --> 00:05:07,072 严重到这种程度？ - 全没了 It's as serious as that? - It's all gone. 93 00:05:07,122 --> 00:05:08,268 就是这样 全消失了 There it is, it's all gone. 94 00:05:08,318 --> 00:05:10,265 - 是因为成年扇贝无法 - Is that because the adult scallops are not there 95 00:05:10,315 --> 00:05:11,170 繁殖后代吗？ to reproduce themselves? 96 00:05:11,220 --> 00:05:12,285 - 正是 - That's right. 97 00:05:12,335 --> 00:05:14,584 我们正面临必须 You know, we're just getting to the stage 98 00:05:14,634 --> 00:05:16,639 采取行动的境地 where something needs to be done. 99 00:05:16,689 --> 00:05:20,087 所以现在研究孵化技术 So, now we're looking at hatchery technology. 100 00:05:20,137 --> 00:05:22,618 苏格兰拥有全球最佳 Here in Scotland, we've got the best growing waters 101 00:05:22,668 --> 00:05:24,510 扇贝生长水域 in the world for scallops. 102 00:05:24,560 --> 00:05:26,925 我们讨论的是苏格兰扇贝 And we're talking about Scottish scallops, 103 00:05:26,975 --> 00:05:29,270 通过孵化场培育后 produced in a hatchery, and then put back 104 00:05:29,320 --> 00:05:31,430 放归最初捕捞的 into the sea exactly where we took them from 105 00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:36,353 海域继续生长至成熟 in the first place, to grow on and become full grown. 106 00:05:36,403 --> 00:05:37,873 - 回到海湾 - Back out on the loch, 107 00:05:37,923 --> 00:05:40,834 简向我展示幼扇贝生长情况 Jane shows me how her young scallops are doing. 108 00:05:42,242 --> 00:05:44,036 来了 你的扇贝 Here they come, your scallops. 109 00:05:44,086 --> 00:05:46,161 - 这是灯笼网中的扇贝 - Yes, this is scallops in the lantern, 110 00:05:46,211 --> 00:05:48,088 一龄贝 they're one year old. 111 00:05:48,138 --> 00:05:49,853 - 一年长这么大 不错吧？ - They're quite big for a year of growth, aren't they? 112 00:05:49,903 --> 00:05:51,339 - 是的 还不差 - Yeah, it's not bad. 113 00:05:51,389 --> 00:05:55,124 今年九月它们将投放到海床 They'll, they'll go on the sea bed this September, 114 00:05:55,174 --> 00:05:58,746 再经过四年才能采收 and then it'll be another four years before we harvest them. 115 00:05:58,796 --> 00:06:01,254 所以是五年周期 So it's a five-year process. 116 00:06:01,304 --> 00:06:03,169 - 你称此为扇贝牧养 - Now you call this scallop ranching 117 00:06:03,219 --> 00:06:04,481 而非扇贝养殖 rather than scallop farming. 118 00:06:04,531 --> 00:06:05,314 有什么区别？ Now what, what's the difference? 119 00:06:05,364 --> 00:06:06,243 为何叫牧养？ Why ranching? 120 00:06:06,293 --> 00:06:08,704 - 想象美国大牧场 - If you think of, if you think of the big ranches 121 00:06:08,754 --> 00:06:10,968 牛群自由漫步 in America where you've got cattle 122 00:06:11,018 --> 00:06:14,625 我们做的完全一样 just roaming around free, that's exactly what we're doing. 123 00:06:14,675 --> 00:06:17,319 这不同于鲑鱼养殖那种 We're not, it's not really farming in the sense 124 00:06:17,369 --> 00:06:19,664 圈养模式 that you have, salmon farming. 125 00:06:19,714 --> 00:06:22,009 它们首年仅在网笼中 They're not, they're only caged for their first year 126 00:06:22,059 --> 00:06:23,275 接受保护 and only to look after them. 127 00:06:23,325 --> 00:06:25,957 之后便彻底放归大海 After that, they're literally thrown back out in the sea. 128 00:06:26,007 --> 00:06:28,334 采收前它们至少会 They'll all spawn for, at least three times 129 00:06:28,384 --> 00:06:30,064 繁殖三次 before we harvest them. 130 00:06:30,114 --> 00:06:33,198 这样能向该区域 So that'll be putting more biomass back in to the, 131 00:06:33,248 --> 00:06:36,612 补充更多生物量 back into the area, so eventually, we should be able 132 00:06:36,662 --> 00:06:39,851 最终应能增加该地野生扇贝数量 to increase the amount of wild scallops in the area. 133 00:06:42,525 --> 00:06:46,747 - 简手工挑选成熟扇贝 - Jane selects her fully-grown scallops by hand. 134 00:06:48,237 --> 00:06:51,681 我与她一同潜入寒冷咸海 I join her for a chilly dunk in the briny. 135 00:06:53,577 --> 00:06:56,894 但我似乎遭遇装备故障 But I have what appears to be a wardrobe malfunction. 136 00:06:56,944 --> 00:06:57,777 噢 噢！ Oh, Oh! 137 00:06:58,837 --> 00:07:01,167 我好像 浮力过强 Well, I seem to be uh, have a lot of buoyancy. 138 00:07:02,680 --> 00:07:04,487 胀得像米其林轮胎人 I've blown up like a Michelin man. 139 00:07:07,126 --> 00:07:09,166 - 实在 实在忍不住笑 - I can not, can not stop laughing. 140 00:07:09,216 --> 00:07:11,093 - 我还是安全待在水面 - I'll just stay safely on the surface 141 00:07:11,143 --> 00:07:12,336 让你负责深潜 and I'll let you take the plunge, 142 00:07:12,386 --> 00:07:14,007 毕竟胀成这样 'cause I don't think there's any way I'm gonna get 143 00:07:14,057 --> 00:07:16,701 根本下不去 down at all, blown up like this, frankly. 144 00:07:19,375 --> 00:07:20,811 完全沉不下去 It's impossible to sink. 145 00:07:22,335 --> 00:07:24,178 像浮标般上下晃动 I'm bobbing up and down like a buoy. 146 00:07:25,087 --> 00:07:26,685 没想到你是这副模样 I didn't think you were gonna look like that. 147 00:07:27,850 --> 00:07:30,267 - 我也 我也没想到 - Neither did, neither did I. 148 00:07:31,670 --> 00:07:33,709 终于平复情绪后 Composing ourselves finally, 149 00:07:33,759 --> 00:07:37,378 简深吸一口气准备下潜 Jane takes a deep breath and prepares to dive. 150 00:07:37,428 --> 00:07:38,562 捕猎愉快 Happy hunting. 151 00:07:38,612 --> 00:07:39,395 - 好嘞 - Okey-Doke. 152 00:07:39,445 --> 00:07:41,117 我就在水面徘徊 I'll just lurk around here on the surface. 153 00:07:41,167 --> 00:07:42,167 - 很好 - Very good. 154 00:07:57,130 --> 00:08:00,331 - 我观察简的可持续养殖扇贝 - I watch Jane to see how her sustainably produced scallops 155 00:08:00,381 --> 00:08:02,381 在海床的生长情况 are doing on the seabed. 156 00:08:03,609 --> 00:08:05,114 若有适当投资 With the right investment, 157 00:08:05,164 --> 00:08:07,123 她希望新事业每年能产出 she hopes her new business will produce 158 00:08:07,173 --> 00:08:10,840 千万只成熟扇贝 up to 10 million mature scallops every year. 159 00:08:11,910 --> 00:08:12,928 她上来了 Here she comes. 160 00:08:13,965 --> 00:08:15,273 她来了 嗨简 Here she comes, Hi Jane. 161 00:08:15,323 --> 00:08:16,106 收获如何？ What have you got? 162 00:08:16,156 --> 00:08:17,456 - 瞧好了 - Alright there we go. 163 00:08:17,506 --> 00:08:18,768 刚出海的 Fresh out the sea. 164 00:08:18,818 --> 00:08:20,660 - 太漂亮了 - Absolutely beautiful. 165 00:08:20,710 --> 00:08:21,810 多大龄了？ How old are they? 166 00:08:21,860 --> 00:08:23,574 - 四到五年 - Well, four or five years old. 167 00:08:23,624 --> 00:08:24,724 - 真了不起 - That's fantastic. 168 00:08:24,774 --> 00:08:26,245 - 是啊 - Yeah, yeah. 169 00:08:26,295 --> 00:08:27,649 - 这就是可持续的未来 - That's the sustainable future. 170 00:08:27,699 --> 00:08:28,764 - 正是 - That's it. 171 00:08:28,814 --> 00:08:31,353 - 美丽的扇贝 新鲜出海 - Beautiful scallops, fresh from the sea, 172 00:08:31,403 --> 00:08:33,153 即将呈上我的餐桌 and soon on my table. 173 00:08:34,247 --> 00:08:35,030 - 今晚晚餐 - Dinner tonight. 174 00:08:35,080 --> 00:08:36,299 - 当然 - Absolutely. 175 00:08:36,349 --> 00:08:38,354 双人晚餐 简 在尤岛 Dinner for two, Jane, on the Isle of Ewe. 176 00:08:38,404 --> 00:08:39,187 - 太棒了 - Excellent. 177 00:08:42,839 --> 00:08:45,041 - 得知尤湾宁静水域 - It's good to know that the peaceful waters 178 00:08:45,091 --> 00:08:49,070 正被高效利用 令人欣慰 of Loch Ewe are being put to productive use. 179 00:08:49,120 --> 00:08:52,344 但70年前 苏格兰这片区域的偏远性 But 70 years ago, the remoteness of this part 180 00:08:52,394 --> 00:08:56,311 使其成为公众禁地 of Scotland made it a no-go area to the public. 181 00:08:57,433 --> 00:09:00,575 从尤岛沿岸北上是座岛屿 Just up the coast from the Isle of Ewe is an island 182 00:09:00,625 --> 00:09:04,058 曾因极度偏远与隔绝 that was once considered to be so remote and solitary, 183 00:09:04,108 --> 00:09:05,661 被选作英国 it was chosen as the location 184 00:09:05,711 --> 00:09:09,411 生物战实验基地 for Britain's biological warfare experiments. 185 00:09:12,421 --> 00:09:14,948 这是格鲁伊纳德岛 This is Gruinard Island. 186 00:09:14,998 --> 00:09:17,793 大规模杀伤性武器实验竟在此进行 It seems incredible that experiments with a weapon 187 00:09:17,843 --> 00:09:20,843 令人难以置信 of mass destruction took place here. 188 00:09:22,115 --> 00:09:24,980 这段1940年拍摄的绝密影片 This top secret film shot in 1940, 189 00:09:25,030 --> 00:09:29,197 显示致命炭疽孢子被释放感染羊群 shows deadly anthrax spores being released to infect sheep. 190 00:09:30,161 --> 00:09:31,632 战争期间形势何等绝望 It's a chilling reminder 191 00:09:31,682 --> 00:09:35,742 这是冰冷的警示 of how desperate the situation was during the war. 192 00:09:35,792 --> 00:09:38,749 任何能避免失败的手段都被视作正当 Anything that might prevent defeat was justified, 193 00:09:38,799 --> 00:09:40,882 即便毒化整座岛屿 even poisoning an island. 194 00:09:42,862 --> 00:09:45,576 约20年前政府开展了 About 20 years ago, the government undertook 195 00:09:45,626 --> 00:09:47,840 大规模清理行动 an extensive cleanup operation 196 00:09:47,890 --> 00:09:50,289 在那边的格鲁伊纳德岛 on Gruinard Island over there. 197 00:09:50,339 --> 00:09:52,843 地面浸透海水与甲醛溶液 The ground was soaked with a solution of seawater 198 00:09:52,893 --> 00:09:56,919 以杀灭致命炭疽孢子 and formaldehyde to kill off the deadly anthrax spores. 199 00:09:56,969 --> 00:10:00,469 如今显然已完全安全 And today, it's entirely safe, apparently. 200 00:10:02,518 --> 00:10:05,765 不过 我想我还是敬而远之 Though, I don't know, I think I'll give it a miss. 201 00:10:09,681 --> 00:10:13,393 为远离炭疽岛 To put some distance between me and anthrax island, 202 00:10:13,443 --> 00:10:16,690 我沿海岸北上来至小型群岛 I'm moving up the coast to a tiny archipelago 203 00:10:16,740 --> 00:10:20,907 其享有"夏日群岛"的华美称号 that luxuriates in the glorious title of the Summer Isles. 204 00:10:22,917 --> 00:10:25,293 引领我穿越这片美丽偏远水域的 Guiding me through this beautiful and remote stretch 205 00:10:25,343 --> 00:10:27,998 是朱莉-安·麦克劳德 of water is Julie-Ann Macleod, 206 00:10:28,048 --> 00:10:32,215 她与同伴罗里在此运营皮划艇探险 where she and fellow guide Rory, run kayaking safaris. 207 00:10:33,110 --> 00:10:35,661 对 记住扭转身体 That's it, remember to twist that body. 208 00:10:35,711 --> 00:10:38,041 如同多数看似简单的事 Like most things that look easy, 209 00:10:38,091 --> 00:10:40,038 划桨需要技巧 paddling requires technique, 210 00:10:40,088 --> 00:10:42,624 朱莉-安是位严格的教练 and Julie-Ann is a strict teacher. 211 00:10:42,674 --> 00:10:43,704 - 扭转身体 旋转 - Twist that body, rotate. 212 00:10:43,754 --> 00:10:45,062 - 我正在扭 我正在 - I'm twisting the body, I'm twist. 213 00:10:45,112 --> 00:10:46,456 尽力扭转 - 就这样 I'm trying to twist. - That's it. 214 00:10:46,506 --> 00:10:47,289 - 天呐 - Oh dear. 215 00:10:47,339 --> 00:10:48,122 漂亮 Beautiful. 216 00:10:48,172 --> 00:10:48,955 我的肾啊 My kidneys. 217 00:10:50,244 --> 00:10:51,027 现在是否感觉到 So are you feeling now 218 00:10:51,077 --> 00:10:53,360 座舱下方 that you're actually got some movement down 219 00:10:53,410 --> 00:10:54,921 有动静？ underneath your cockpit? 220 00:10:54,971 --> 00:10:55,920 你说什么？ I beg your pardon? 221 00:10:57,520 --> 00:10:58,701 - 不是这个意思 - 挺刺激的朱尔斯 - That's not quite. - That's exciting Jules, 222 00:10:58,751 --> 00:11:00,222 但没那么刺激 but not that exciting. 223 00:11:00,272 --> 00:11:01,464 - 不是我本意 - 得了吧 - Not quite what I meant. - Come on. 224 00:11:02,663 --> 00:11:03,551 - 我是说你的腿 保罗 - I meant with your legs, Paul. 225 00:11:03,601 --> 00:11:05,934 我座舱内部确实有动静 I've got some movement down inside my cockpit. 226 00:11:09,304 --> 00:11:13,237 对座舱操控渐增信心后 Feeling increasingly confident in the cockpit department, 227 00:11:13,287 --> 00:11:15,907 我们探索岛屿的复杂地貌 we explore the intricacies of the islands, 228 00:11:15,957 --> 00:11:18,207 地质与野生动植物 their geology and wildlife. 229 00:11:19,335 --> 00:11:20,826 这条通道非常狭窄 It's a very narrow passageway we're trying 230 00:11:20,876 --> 00:11:21,694 我们正尝试通过 朱尔斯 to get through here Jules. 231 00:11:21,744 --> 00:11:23,122 是的 Yeah. 232 00:11:23,172 --> 00:11:23,955 能过去吗？ We gonna make it? 233 00:11:24,005 --> 00:11:24,922 - 能过去 - Yeah, we're gonna make it. 234 00:11:24,972 --> 00:11:27,882 哇 这太窄了 哇 Whoa, this is narrow, whoa. 235 00:11:30,777 --> 00:11:32,608 出来了 - 成功 And emerging. - That's it. 236 00:11:32,658 --> 00:11:33,838 是的 - 进入 Yeah. - Into. 237 00:11:33,888 --> 00:11:35,321 看那拱门！ Look at that arch! 238 00:11:35,371 --> 00:11:37,945 无人确知这些岛屿 No one knows for sure why these islands 239 00:11:37,995 --> 00:11:40,499 为何名为夏日群岛 are called the Summer Isles. 240 00:11:40,549 --> 00:11:42,554 或许因夏季在此放牧 It might be because of the summer grazing 241 00:11:42,604 --> 00:11:44,516 与捕鱼活动 and fishing that went on here. 242 00:11:44,566 --> 00:11:47,989 但朱莉-安认为名称源远流长 But Julie-Ann believes the name is much older. 243 00:11:48,039 --> 00:11:50,253 盖尔语中夏日群岛 In Gaelic the Summer Isles 244 00:11:50,303 --> 00:11:53,086 称为"Na h-Eileanan Samhraidh" are called Na helanan soweri. 245 00:11:53,136 --> 00:11:55,386 "Samhraidh"是古诺尔斯语"夏季" Soweri is Norse for Summer. 246 00:11:56,549 --> 00:11:59,158 维京人必定曾在此 So the Vikings must have been here at one time or 247 00:11:59,208 --> 00:12:00,063 或曾定居 - 绝对 had been. - Absolutely. 248 00:12:00,113 --> 00:12:01,666 居留久到能为岛屿命名 Around long enough to name the islands. 249 00:12:01,716 --> 00:12:03,303 是的 维京人 维京人曾 Yeah, the Vikings, the Vikings were, 250 00:12:03,353 --> 00:12:05,102 在此并产生巨大影响 were here and they had a huge influence. 251 00:12:06,255 --> 00:12:09,572 19世纪曾有家族在此居住 There used to be families living here in the 1800s. 252 00:12:09,622 --> 00:12:10,405 真的？ Really? 253 00:12:10,455 --> 00:12:11,238 是的 And yeah. 254 00:12:11,288 --> 00:12:12,393 什么 在此佃耕？ What, crofting out here? 255 00:12:12,443 --> 00:12:14,611 是的 生存环境 Yeah, really harsh environment 256 00:12:14,661 --> 00:12:17,072 极其严酷 to actually survive in, you know. 257 00:12:17,122 --> 00:12:20,973 我们地处偏远 因而拥有美景 We're very remote, and with that brings beauty, 258 00:12:21,023 --> 00:12:24,386 但也带来挑战 but it also brings some challenges. 259 00:12:24,436 --> 00:12:27,173 皮划艇最吸引你的是什么？ What was the great allure for you of kayaking? 260 00:12:27,223 --> 00:12:29,030 - 说实话当我回归时 - Well to be honest when I moved back, 261 00:12:29,080 --> 00:12:31,828 我回到这里 当时游历四方 I came back up here to, I was travelling about 262 00:12:31,878 --> 00:12:33,639 到过许多美丽之地 and I was going to some beautiful places, 263 00:12:33,689 --> 00:12:36,426 心想天啊 这些地方绝美 and I was thinking oh gosh, these are absolutely stunning. 264 00:12:36,476 --> 00:12:39,131 但我不断将其与北方故乡比较 But I kept on comparing them to back up north. 265 00:12:39,181 --> 00:12:41,523 逐渐开始意识到 You know and I sort of began to realize, 266 00:12:41,573 --> 00:12:45,191 有时需要离开才能懂得 I suppose you need to go away sometimes to realize, 267 00:12:45,241 --> 00:12:47,537 珍惜自己的根源 you know and appreciate where you're from. 268 00:12:47,587 --> 00:12:50,033 我开始 意识到自己生活在 And I began, came to realize that I live in one 269 00:12:50,083 --> 00:12:51,681 世间至美之地 of the most stunning places. 270 00:12:55,470 --> 00:12:57,103 朱莉·安说得对 Julie Ann's right. 271 00:12:57,153 --> 00:13:00,226 夏日群岛的美景与幽寂让人 The beauty and solitude of the Summer Isles allow you 272 00:13:00,276 --> 00:13:03,071 感受与自然的极致亲近 to feel as close to nature as it gets. 273 00:13:03,121 --> 00:13:05,648 但她想更进一步 But she wants to take this even further 274 00:13:05,698 --> 00:13:09,677 用赫布里底丛林美食回归本真 and get back to basics with some Hebridean bush tucker. 275 00:13:09,727 --> 00:13:11,151 现在要做什么？ So what are we gonna do now then? 276 00:13:11,201 --> 00:13:11,984 我们要 We're gonna, 277 00:13:12,034 --> 00:13:13,643 进行野外采集 gonna do a little bit of foraging. 278 00:13:13,693 --> 00:13:14,502 采集？ Foraging? 279 00:13:14,552 --> 00:13:15,335 采集 没错 Foraging, yeah. 280 00:13:15,385 --> 00:13:16,430 好吧 这是不是因为 Right, is that in the absence 281 00:13:16,480 --> 00:13:17,591 没准备餐食？ of having prepared a meal? 282 00:13:18,790 --> 00:13:19,599 你饿了吗？ Are you hungry? 283 00:13:19,649 --> 00:13:20,691 饿坏了 I'm absolutely starving. 284 00:13:20,741 --> 00:13:21,524 那么 Well. 285 00:13:21,574 --> 00:13:22,537 因为划桨运动 Because all that paddling's 286 00:13:22,587 --> 00:13:24,429 让人饥肠辘辘 really worked up a tremendous appetite. 287 00:13:25,312 --> 00:13:27,229 我现在能吃下一匹马 So I could eat a horse. 288 00:13:29,441 --> 00:13:32,514 虽然我知道野外采集 While I realize that foraging is very fashionable 289 00:13:32,564 --> 00:13:34,650 在现代美食家中很时髦 with the modern gourmet, 290 00:13:34,700 --> 00:13:37,506 但我不太确定今日午餐 I'm not entirely sure how many Michelin stars 291 00:13:37,556 --> 00:13:40,513 能获得几颗米其林星 today's lunch is going to get. 292 00:13:40,563 --> 00:13:42,556 - 我们要突袭帽贝 - We're gonna try and surprise some limpets. 293 00:13:42,606 --> 00:13:44,193 帽贝 如你所 The limpets, as you can, 294 00:13:44,243 --> 00:13:45,392 顾名思义 - 你是认真的？ as you tell by the name. - Are you serious? 295 00:13:45,442 --> 00:13:46,376 我们要吃帽贝？ We're gonna eat the limpets? 296 00:13:46,426 --> 00:13:47,851 - 没错 要烹饪些帽贝 - Yeah, yeah, we're gonna cook some limpets. 297 00:13:47,901 --> 00:13:49,697 用火烤帽贝 We'll cook some limpets on the fire. 298 00:13:49,747 --> 00:13:50,530 好吧 小帽贝 Okay, little limpet, 299 00:13:50,580 --> 00:13:53,226 给你个终身难忘的惊喜 I'm gonna give you the surprise of your life. 300 00:13:54,109 --> 00:13:54,892 得手！ Yes! 301 00:13:54,942 --> 00:13:55,725 我突袭成功了 I surprised that one. 302 00:13:56,837 --> 00:14:00,148 主菜 当然 若没有 The main course, naturellement, wouldn't be the same 303 00:14:00,198 --> 00:14:03,296 异域蔬菜就不完整 without some exotic vegetables. 304 00:14:03,346 --> 00:14:04,202 这是肠浒苔 So this is gut weed, 305 00:14:04,252 --> 00:14:05,894 我们要用它来—— and what we're gonna do with the gut weed is-- 306 00:14:05,944 --> 00:14:07,194 - 多美妙的名字 肠浒苔 - What a delightful name, gut weed. 307 00:14:07,244 --> 00:14:08,877 我知道 听起来 I know, it doesn't sound 308 00:14:08,927 --> 00:14:09,864 不太可口 - 你的晚餐是 very edible. - Here's your dinner 309 00:14:09,914 --> 00:14:11,792 帽贝配肠浒苔 - 但其实可以 of limpet and gut weed. - But it is. 310 00:14:11,842 --> 00:14:14,206 加入清炒海莴苣 Throw in some lightly-sauteed sea lettuce 311 00:14:14,256 --> 00:14:17,004 菜单就齐全了 and the menu is complete. 312 00:14:17,054 --> 00:14:17,991 哦 可以了 - 好了 Oh it's going. - That's it. 313 00:14:18,041 --> 00:14:19,791 - 好了 好了 快看 - It's going, it's going, look at that. 314 00:14:19,841 --> 00:14:22,879 传统方式点燃野炊灶火后 With the foraging kitchen lit in the traditional way, 315 00:14:22,929 --> 00:14:25,909 不久我们的露天午餐 it's not long before our lunch, alfresco, 316 00:14:25,959 --> 00:14:28,173 即将装盘 is ready to plate up. 317 00:14:28,223 --> 00:14:29,006 熟了吗？ Is that cooked? 318 00:14:29,056 --> 00:14:30,037 - 嗯 熟了 - Yeah, it's cooked. 319 00:14:30,087 --> 00:14:31,674 - 确定不会毒死我吧？ - Right, are you sure it's not gonna kill me? 320 00:14:31,724 --> 00:14:33,056 不会毒死你 No, it's not gonna kill you. 321 00:14:33,106 --> 00:14:34,574 - 你从它后面扯出什么？ - What are you pulling out of the back of it? 322 00:14:36,795 --> 00:14:38,544 这就是 晚餐 So this is, this is dinner, 323 00:14:40,080 --> 00:14:41,795 赫布里底风味 Hebridean style. 324 00:14:41,845 --> 00:14:45,951 该怎么吃 配着海藻吃 So what do I, do I eat it with the seaweed 325 00:14:46,001 --> 00:14:47,960 还是先吃它再吃海藻？ or do I eat it first and then have some seaweed? 326 00:14:48,010 --> 00:14:49,690 有讲究吗？ Or does it not matter? 327 00:14:49,740 --> 00:14:51,130 - 没讲究 - So it doesn't matter. 328 00:14:51,180 --> 00:14:52,767 直接 直接嚼就行 - 好吧 Just, just munch away. - Right. 329 00:14:52,817 --> 00:14:57,074 我先小心翼翼尝一点 I'll just very gingerly sample a little bit. 330 00:14:57,124 --> 00:15:00,081 有点韧但 Little bit chewy but. 331 00:15:01,977 --> 00:15:05,015 - 第一印象是很有嚼劲 - Well, first impression something very chewy, 332 00:15:05,065 --> 00:15:09,206 尝起来有点 嗯 石南花味 and it tastes a little bit of um, bunk heather. 333 00:15:09,256 --> 00:15:10,283 但并非难以下咽 But its not unpalatable. 334 00:15:10,333 --> 00:15:11,116 - 是的 - No. 335 00:15:11,166 --> 00:15:11,949 - 是的 - No. 336 00:15:11,999 --> 00:15:12,782 是的 No. 337 00:15:12,832 --> 00:15:16,999 - 嗯 现在尝尝这美味海藻 - Hmm, I'll try some of this delicious sea weed now. 338 00:15:18,553 --> 00:15:20,136 嗯 嗯 哇 哇 Hmm, hmm, wow, wow, 339 00:15:22,771 --> 00:15:24,114 真是盛宴 it's a real feast. 340 00:15:25,314 --> 00:15:26,097 - 我来点海藻 - I'll have some seaweed. 341 00:15:26,147 --> 00:15:27,435 - 非常感谢 - Thank you very much indeed. 342 00:15:28,924 --> 00:15:29,908 - 说服你了吗？ - Have we convinced you? 343 00:15:29,958 --> 00:15:30,741 - 呃 没有 - Uh, no. 344 00:15:32,431 --> 00:15:34,018 但环境无可挑剔 对吧？ But you can't beat the location, can you? 345 00:15:38,839 --> 00:15:41,587 消化完帽贝大餐后 After digesting my limpet feast, 346 00:15:41,637 --> 00:15:45,804 我登陆塔内拉莫尔岛 夏日群岛中最大岛屿 I land on Tanera Mor, the largest of the Summer Isles. 347 00:15:47,222 --> 00:15:51,351 它的故事是众多小岛的典型 Its story is typical of many our smaller islands. 348 00:15:51,401 --> 00:15:55,705 曾繁荣的社区毁于经济灾难 A once thriving community brought down by economic disaster, 349 00:15:55,755 --> 00:15:58,480 交通不便与漠视 poor communications and neglect. 350 00:15:59,726 --> 00:16:02,476 至1930年代 塔内拉已成荒岛 By the 1930s Tanera was deserted. 351 00:16:03,348 --> 00:16:06,015 古老家园沦为废墟 The old homes were in a ruinous state, 352 00:16:06,065 --> 00:16:09,660 码头正崩塌入海 and the jetty was literally falling into the sea. 353 00:16:09,710 --> 00:16:11,506 但这正是那位 But this was just the sort of place 354 00:16:11,556 --> 00:16:14,455 激进的年轻环保主义者 that a radical young conservationist was looking for, 355 00:16:14,505 --> 00:16:15,922 寻求证道之地 to prove a point. 356 00:16:19,259 --> 00:16:22,785 弗兰克·弗雷泽·达林一生中成为 During his lifetime, Frank Fraser Darling became known 357 00:16:22,835 --> 00:16:24,631 现代环保运动的 as one of the founding figures 358 00:16:24,681 --> 00:16:27,580 奠基人之一 of the modern environmental movement. 359 00:16:27,630 --> 00:16:30,378 他认为苏格兰高地与岛屿的景观 He argued that the landscape of the Scottish Highlands 360 00:16:30,428 --> 00:16:33,385 虽被盛赞其美 and islands, much vaunted for its beauty, 361 00:16:33,435 --> 00:16:36,018 实为人造荒漠 was in fact a man-made desert. 362 00:16:37,138 --> 00:16:39,875 几个世纪以来森林被砍伐 Over the centuries forests have been cut down 363 00:16:39,925 --> 00:16:42,963 原住民遭清退 为鹿群 and people cleared to make way to way for deer, 364 00:16:43,013 --> 00:16:46,249 与大规模牧羊业腾地 and for sheep farming on a massive scale. 365 00:16:46,299 --> 00:16:51,148 闲置土地变得酸瘠不育 And the land which lay fallow had become sour and infertile. 366 00:16:51,198 --> 00:16:54,031 但未必只能如此 But it didn't have to be that way. 367 00:16:55,912 --> 00:16:59,391 1938年弗雷泽·达林携妻儿 Fraser Darling moved into an abandoned croft on Tanera Mor 368 00:16:59,441 --> 00:17:02,723 迁入塔内拉莫尔岛废弃农舍 with his wife and son in 1938. 369 00:17:02,773 --> 00:17:04,407 他想证明佃耕 He wanted to prove that crofting 370 00:17:04,457 --> 00:17:06,996 可超越自给农业 could be more than just subsistence farming. 371 00:17:07,046 --> 00:17:08,714 通过合理耕作 And that, with the right husbandry, 372 00:17:08,764 --> 00:17:12,931 西高地的湿荒漠能重焕生机 the wet desert of the West Highlands could bloom again. 373 00:17:13,826 --> 00:17:17,468 他们逆势成功 为垂死岛屿 Against the odds, they succeeded breathing life back 374 00:17:17,518 --> 00:17:19,697 注入新生 into the moribund island. 375 00:17:19,747 --> 00:17:23,914 其著作《岛屿农场》描述了这段经历 Experiences he described in his book, Island Farm. 376 00:17:24,971 --> 00:17:28,904 "我们重为农人 践行本源 "We were peasant folk again, doing first things. 377 00:17:28,954 --> 00:17:32,654 "孩童欢笑声如天籁 "The children's happy laughter was a joyous sound, 378 00:17:32,704 --> 00:17:36,682 "金色谷物环绕金色空气 "and the golden corn was all about in the golden air, 379 00:17:36,732 --> 00:17:41,315 "我直腰磨镰时所见" "as I straightened my back to sharpen the scythe." 380 00:17:41,365 --> 00:17:42,917 弗兰克·弗雷泽·达林主张 Frank Fraser Darling argued that 381 00:17:42,967 --> 00:17:46,237 为使自然恢复丰饶 in order to bring nature back to bountiful health, 382 00:17:46,287 --> 00:17:48,908 人类需顺应环境 people needed to work with the environment, 383 00:17:48,958 --> 00:17:50,765 而非对抗 instead of against it. 384 00:17:50,815 --> 00:17:53,436 遍布劳作农庄 A landscape full of working crofts 385 00:17:53,486 --> 00:17:56,385 与滋养土壤的人群 是他对 and people nourishing the soil was his solution 386 00:17:56,435 --> 00:17:58,323 更美好未来的解答 to a better future. 387 00:18:02,959 --> 00:18:06,079 可惜实验昙花一现 Sadly, the experiment was short-lived. 388 00:18:06,129 --> 00:18:10,258 这家人离开后 塔内拉莫尔岛命运多舛 After the family left, Tanera Mor had mixed fortunes, 389 00:18:10,308 --> 00:18:13,161 直至威尔特郡农夫比尔·怀尔德 until Bill Wilder, a farmer from Wiltshire, 390 00:18:13,211 --> 00:18:17,062 购下岛屿举家迁居于此 bought the island and moved here with his family. 391 00:18:17,112 --> 00:18:19,767 你在此居住约16年间 And living here as you did for 16 years or so, 392 00:18:19,817 --> 00:18:22,983 可了解弗兰克·弗雷泽·达林的传承？ were you aware of the legacy of Frank Fraser Darling? 393 00:18:23,033 --> 00:18:25,328 - 他的影响始终存在 - He was always there in the background. 394 00:18:25,378 --> 00:18:29,545 我们知道他对此地影响深远 We knew he, he'd had a great influence on the place. 395 00:18:30,974 --> 00:18:33,304 多方面使其闻名 Put it on the map in many ways. 396 00:18:33,354 --> 00:18:37,588 他一直想展示 But he'd been wanting to demonstrate the, the art, 397 00:18:37,638 --> 00:18:40,317 可谓 正统佃耕技艺 if you like, of proper crofting. 398 00:18:40,367 --> 00:18:44,534 从这片原始贫瘠土地获取生产力 Getting productivity from this very raw, sour ground. 399 00:18:45,510 --> 00:18:48,989 他付出极大努力 辛勤劳作 And he went to huge extremes, they worked enormously hard, 400 00:18:49,039 --> 00:18:52,539 运输肥料 石灰与海藻 carting, fertilizer and lime, and seaweed, 401 00:18:54,299 --> 00:18:56,176 滋养土地 and fertilizing the ground. 402 00:18:56,226 --> 00:18:57,325 真是赫拉克勒斯般的壮举 对吧？ It's a Herculean effort really, wasn't it? 403 00:18:57,375 --> 00:18:58,893 绝对 他和妻子在此 Absolutely, he and his wife did do 404 00:18:58,943 --> 00:19:00,982 成就非凡 extraordinary things here. 405 00:19:01,032 --> 00:19:03,676 你在此生活的感受如何？ And for you living here, what's it been like? 406 00:19:03,726 --> 00:19:04,535 - 妙不可言！ - Fabulous! 407 00:19:04,585 --> 00:19:07,530 这地方实在太美好 I mean it's just a wonderful place to be. 408 00:19:07,580 --> 00:19:08,599 宁静祥和 It's peace and quiet. 409 00:19:08,649 --> 00:19:10,735 你可以 专注从事 You're, you can get on with what you've, 410 00:19:10,785 --> 00:19:12,256 虽需艰苦劳作 I mean it's hard graft 411 00:19:12,306 --> 00:19:14,392 但让我们多年保持健硕 and it's kept us very fit over the years. 412 00:19:14,442 --> 00:19:16,563 你能专注于目标 But you can concentrate what you're trying to do 413 00:19:16,613 --> 00:19:19,860 大体不受干扰地推进 and get on with it undisturbed on the whole. 414 00:19:19,910 --> 00:19:21,788 你会向他人推荐岛居生活吗？ So would you recommend island life to other people? 415 00:19:21,838 --> 00:19:24,574 - 哦 并非人人都适合 - Oh, it wouldn't be everybody's cup of tea, 416 00:19:24,624 --> 00:19:27,325 但对很多人而言确是 but to a lot of folk, it is, 417 00:19:27,375 --> 00:19:30,936 于我们无疑是美妙人生 and it certainly has been to us, a wonderful life, yes. 418 00:19:33,819 --> 00:19:37,806 - 与弗兰克不同 比尔不耕作土地 - Unlike Frank Fraser Darling, Bill doesn't work the land, 419 00:19:37,856 --> 00:19:40,883 通过出租度假房产 but derives an income by renting out holiday property 420 00:19:40,933 --> 00:19:44,215 经营岛上独特邮局创收 and running the island's rather unique post office, 421 00:19:44,265 --> 00:19:48,116 这里出售备受追捧的特别版邮票 where much sought after special edition stamps are on sale 422 00:19:48,166 --> 00:19:51,227 供专业集邮者收藏 to the dedicated philatelist. 423 00:19:51,277 --> 00:19:54,594 我选张明信片 比尔 So I'll just choose a postcard, Bill. 424 00:19:54,644 --> 00:19:55,906 这张也不错 That looks like a nice one too. 425 00:19:55,956 --> 00:19:57,915 - 我知道你能卖我 - I know you can sell me a very interesting 426 00:19:57,965 --> 00:19:58,820 有趣独特的邮票 and unique stamp. 427 00:19:58,870 --> 00:20:03,037 - 确实 这张可追溯至1996年 - Indeed, yes this one dates back to about 1996 I think. 428 00:20:03,932 --> 00:20:08,480 是应景航海主题 相当难得 But it's an appropriately nautical one and quite hopefully. 429 00:20:08,530 --> 00:20:11,243 - 这些是特为塔内拉 - So these stamps are produced for Tanera, 430 00:20:11,293 --> 00:20:12,915 塔内拉邮政发行的 - 是的 for the Tanera Postal Service. - Yes, yes. 431 00:20:12,965 --> 00:20:14,320 正是如此 To the, yeah, exactly. 432 00:20:14,370 --> 00:20:16,560 用于支付从水域这侧 To pay for the crossing from this side 433 00:20:16,610 --> 00:20:18,453 至大陆的渡资 of the water to the mainland. 434 00:20:18,503 --> 00:20:19,602 从岛屿到大陆 From the island to the mainland, 435 00:20:19,652 --> 00:20:23,341 之后需贴皇家邮政邮票 and then thereafter I'm afraid you need a Royal Mail stamp. 436 00:20:23,391 --> 00:20:25,058 皇家邮政 Royal Mail. 437 00:20:26,885 --> 00:20:30,771 这些邮票受收藏界追捧不足为奇 I'm not surprised these stamps are highly collectible. 438 00:20:30,821 --> 00:20:33,116 设计精美绝伦 The designs are beautiful. 439 00:20:33,166 --> 00:20:37,807 甚至有一套纪念弗兰克·弗雷泽·达林 There's even a set commemorating Frank Fraser Darling. 440 00:20:37,857 --> 00:20:39,896 - 我们纪念 尝试纪念重大事件 - We celebrate, try to celebrate happenings, 441 00:20:39,946 --> 00:20:43,863 如1886年《佃农法案》百年庆典 like the centenary of the Crofters Act in 1886, 442 00:20:44,753 --> 00:20:45,836 《佃农法案》 Crofters Act. 443 00:20:47,029 --> 00:20:49,115 童军周年纪念 The anniversary of the Scouts 444 00:20:49,165 --> 00:20:51,054 例如 - 真精美 for instance. - It's lovely. 445 00:20:51,104 --> 00:20:53,062 - 它们正缓慢升值 - And they're slowly appreciating in value, 446 00:20:53,112 --> 00:20:54,746 逐步提升 little bit by little bit. 447 00:20:54,796 --> 00:20:56,557 过往发行版都在这里 The past issues are all here. 448 00:20:56,607 --> 00:20:58,368 少数已售罄但 We've run out of one or two but, 449 00:20:58,418 --> 00:21:00,458 当然存量越少 and of course the fewer there are, 450 00:21:00,508 --> 00:21:02,559 价值越高 the more valuable they become. 451 00:21:02,609 --> 00:21:04,196 正是如此 That's the idea. 452 00:21:07,182 --> 00:21:10,302 本次旅程的终点位于 My final destination on this grand tour lies 453 00:21:10,352 --> 00:21:12,984 更北数英里处 just a few miles further north. 454 00:21:13,034 --> 00:21:16,269 汉达是座悬崖环绕的壮丽岛屿 Handa is a spectacular cliff-girt island, 455 00:21:16,319 --> 00:21:18,986 紧偎萨瑟兰海岸 hugging the coast of Sutherland. 456 00:21:20,058 --> 00:21:21,773 年复一年 海浪将 Year upon year, the sea shapes 457 00:21:21,823 --> 00:21:23,909 陆地边缘塑造成岬角 out the edges of the land into headlands, 458 00:21:23,959 --> 00:21:26,459 海湾 水湾 岛屿 汉达 lochs, inlets, islands, Handa. 459 00:21:29,462 --> 00:21:32,691 每年仅限少量团队到访 It's visited each year by a limited number of parties. 460 00:21:32,741 --> 00:21:34,862 因这里是圣地 For the island is a sanctuary. 461 00:21:34,912 --> 00:21:36,907 鸟类的自然圣殿 A natural sanctuary for birds. 462 00:21:40,974 --> 00:21:45,057 汉达岛 仅1.5平方英里 Handa Island, only 1 1/2 miles square. 463 00:21:47,649 --> 00:21:49,364 - 登陆汉达前 - Before landing on Handa, 464 00:21:49,414 --> 00:21:52,394 我随苏格兰野生动物信托基金的凯特·汤普森 I take a tour around its impressive coastline 465 00:21:52,444 --> 00:21:55,645 环游其壮丽海岸线 with Kate Thompson from the Scottish Wildlife Trust, 466 00:21:55,695 --> 00:21:59,790 该机构代表斯考里庄园管理此岛 which manages the island on behalf of Scourie Estate. 467 00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:03,331 凯特 我们被海鸠包围 Well here we are Kate, surrounded by all these guillemots, 468 00:22:03,381 --> 00:22:05,827 不得不说鸟粪味极其浓烈 and I have to say, very powerful pong of bird poo. 469 00:22:06,864 --> 00:22:07,800 - 确实 - Yeah, absolutely. 470 00:22:07,850 --> 00:22:09,368 多少鸟类在此筑巢？ How many birds nest here? 471 00:22:09,418 --> 00:22:10,726 - 数以千计 - Well, in the thousands. 472 00:22:10,776 --> 00:22:13,977 不同种类数量各异 So different species obviously in different numbers. 473 00:22:14,027 --> 00:22:16,519 汉达最多的是海鸠 The most prolific bird we have on Handa is the guillemots. 474 00:22:16,569 --> 00:22:20,084 最新统计达56,600只 And at last count, we had 56,600 birds. 475 00:22:20,134 --> 00:22:21,489 与海鸠同栖岩架的有 On the ledges with the guillemots, 476 00:22:21,539 --> 00:22:24,681 刀嘴海雀 约5000只 we've got razorbill, about 5,000 razorbill. 477 00:22:24,731 --> 00:22:27,352 三趾鸥会筑建标准鸟巢 The kittiwakes who build an actual proper nest 478 00:22:27,402 --> 00:22:29,929 在较低岩架可见 that you can see just on the lower ledges. 479 00:22:29,979 --> 00:22:30,762 哦 这样 Oh right. 480 00:22:30,812 --> 00:22:33,052 - 较高悬崖区域 - And then on the higher reaches of the cliff, 481 00:22:33,102 --> 00:22:35,548 常见暴雪鹱与海鹦鹉 you often find fulmar and puffins as well. 482 00:22:35,598 --> 00:22:36,454 还有海鹦鹉？ And puffins as well? 483 00:22:36,504 --> 00:22:37,287 是的 当然 Yeah, absolutely. 484 00:22:37,337 --> 00:22:38,120 众人最爱 Everyone's favorite. 485 00:22:38,170 --> 00:22:38,953 众人最爱 Everybody's favorite. 486 00:22:39,003 --> 00:22:39,902 你有偏爱的吗？ Do you have a favorite? 487 00:22:39,952 --> 00:22:41,109 - 我有没有偏爱？ - Do I have a favorite? 488 00:22:41,159 --> 00:22:43,072 我 我爱海鸠 I, I love the guillemot. 489 00:22:43,122 --> 00:22:44,349 觉得它们极美 I think they're absolutely beautiful. 490 00:22:44,399 --> 00:22:46,729 当你看到 有两种 And when you get one of the, there's two, 491 00:22:46,779 --> 00:22:49,399 两种形态 有戴眼罩型的 two morphs, so you have like the bridled form as well. 492 00:22:49,449 --> 00:22:51,001 眼周有圈纹 So they have like a ring around their eye. 493 00:22:51,051 --> 00:22:51,834 非常迷人 It's just gorgeous. 494 00:22:51,884 --> 00:22:52,847 像画了眼线 Like mascara. 495 00:22:52,897 --> 00:22:53,915 没错 像精心打扮 Yeah exactly, like they're going out 496 00:22:53,965 --> 00:22:55,111 赴周六夜宴 for a Saturday night. 497 00:22:55,161 --> 00:22:56,458 - 这是繁殖群落 - Now this is a breeding colony so. 498 00:22:56,508 --> 00:22:57,291 - 是的 - Yeah. 499 00:22:57,341 --> 00:22:58,124 - 冬季时节 - In the winter time, 500 00:22:58,174 --> 00:22:59,755 鸟类数量没这么多吧？ I suppose there aren't anything like this number of birds. 501 00:22:59,805 --> 00:23:00,588 - 完全没这么多 - No, not at all. 502 00:23:00,638 --> 00:23:03,493 冬季 这里鸟类极少 In the, in the winter time there are very few birds here, 503 00:23:03,543 --> 00:23:05,630 因这些都是纯海鸟 because all of these birds are true seabirds, 504 00:23:05,680 --> 00:23:08,335 会前往海洋觅食 so they head out into the oceans to feed, 505 00:23:08,385 --> 00:23:11,168 整个冬季完全 and they survive purely at sea for the, 506 00:23:11,218 --> 00:23:12,526 在海上生存 for the whole of the winter. 507 00:23:12,576 --> 00:23:13,359 - 它们现状如何？ - And how are they doing? 508 00:23:13,409 --> 00:23:16,253 我知道它们有时因恶劣季节 'Cause I know sometimes they've suffered quite a bit 509 00:23:16,303 --> 00:23:18,064 遭受很大打击 - 是的 through poor seasons of. - Yeah. 510 00:23:18,114 --> 00:23:20,525 目前 某些物种数量 At the moment, the population seems 511 00:23:20,575 --> 00:23:24,229 似乎趋于稳定 to be sort of stabilizing in some, with certain species, 512 00:23:24,279 --> 00:23:26,145 但以海鸠为例 but for example the guillemots, 513 00:23:26,195 --> 00:23:29,186 自90年代末已减半 they have half the population since the, the late '90s. 514 00:23:29,236 --> 00:23:30,019 - 竟如此 - Oh really. 515 00:23:30,069 --> 00:23:31,621 - 是的 过去约有10万只 - Yeah, so there was more like 100,000 516 00:23:31,671 --> 00:23:33,804 海鸠 - 太悲惨了 guillemots here. - That's tragic, isn't it? 517 00:23:33,854 --> 00:23:34,965 - 确实 - Yeah, absolutely. 518 00:23:35,015 --> 00:23:36,277 - 可知原因？ - Do you know what the reason is? 519 00:23:36,327 --> 00:23:38,241 - 有多种推测 - There's lots of speculated reasons, 520 00:23:38,291 --> 00:23:40,702 可能不止一个 and it's probably more than, more than one, 521 00:23:40,752 --> 00:23:42,014 不止一个因素 - 是多重 more than one thing. - It's a combination 522 00:23:42,064 --> 00:23:43,500 负面因素叠加 - 是的 确实 of negative factors. - Yeah, yeah absolutely. 523 00:23:43,550 --> 00:23:44,394 - 影响整个群落 - Impacting the colony. 524 00:23:44,444 --> 00:23:45,227 - 是的 - Yeah. 525 00:23:45,277 --> 00:23:47,053 但这仍是绝非凡景 But it's still an absolutely remarkable sight. 526 00:23:47,103 --> 00:23:47,886 - 确实如此 - Yeah, definitely. 527 00:23:47,936 --> 00:23:49,073 - 在此深感荣幸 - And a great privilege to be here. 528 00:23:49,123 --> 00:23:51,337 不知是否会遭鸟粪袭击 I'm just wondering if we're gonna be hit by any bird poo, 529 00:23:51,387 --> 00:23:52,811 头顶鸟类众多 'cause there's quite a lot of birds overhead. 530 00:23:53,694 --> 00:23:54,669 - 应安全 我们目前 - I think we're safe, we're, we're a bit further away 531 00:23:54,719 --> 00:23:55,502 离它们较远 from them at the moment. 532 00:23:55,552 --> 00:23:56,515 - 据说会带来好运 - Supposed to be good luck. 533 00:23:56,565 --> 00:23:57,348 - 都这么说 - Well they say that. 534 00:24:01,952 --> 00:24:05,315 - 不顾风险 直面 - Throwing caution to the winds and risking a direct hit 535 00:24:05,365 --> 00:24:07,695 精准鸟粪轰炸的威胁 from a well-aimed dollop of guano, 536 00:24:07,745 --> 00:24:11,190 我们尽可能靠近悬崖 we try to get as close as we can to the cliffs. 537 00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:12,838 它们栖在最险峻处 They're perched on the most unlikely places 538 00:24:12,888 --> 00:24:14,568 对吧？ - 是啊 aren't they? - I know. 539 00:24:14,618 --> 00:24:16,333 - 想象在那筑巢 - Imagine making a nest up there. 540 00:24:16,383 --> 00:24:18,017 确实难以想象 I know, absolutely. 541 00:24:18,067 --> 00:24:19,700 - 海鸠似乎根本不筑巢 - And the guillemots don't seem to have a nest at all. 542 00:24:19,750 --> 00:24:20,533 它们就 - 是的 They're just. - No. 543 00:24:20,583 --> 00:24:22,045 直接伏卧育雏 They're just sitting there with their chicks. 544 00:24:22,095 --> 00:24:24,298 - 它们有锥形奇卵 - They got this amazingly conical-shaped egg 545 00:24:24,348 --> 00:24:26,724 只会原地滚动 不会 that just rolls in a circle, it doesn't um. 546 00:24:26,774 --> 00:24:27,557 - 所以不会滚落？ - So it doesn't fall off? 547 00:24:27,607 --> 00:24:28,524 - 为防止坠落 正是 - To stop it falling off, exactly. 548 00:24:28,574 --> 00:24:29,357 - 理论上 - In theory. 549 00:24:31,581 --> 00:24:32,889 还有这轰鸣声 And the noise in here as well. 550 00:24:35,934 --> 00:24:37,730 开始产生回响 It's beginning to echo. 551 00:24:37,780 --> 00:24:41,678 鸟鸣在岩壁间回荡 The birds calling and echoing off the walls. 552 00:24:41,728 --> 00:24:43,036 这真是海鸟之城 This really is a seabird city. 553 00:24:43,086 --> 00:24:46,240 从未见过如此景象 I've never seen anything like this. 554 00:24:50,679 --> 00:24:53,903 汉达悬崖或许生机盎然 The cliffs of Handa might be teeming with birdlife, 555 00:24:53,953 --> 00:24:56,608 但曾居此的人类 but the same can't be said of the human population 556 00:24:56,658 --> 00:24:59,511 却非如此 that once lived on the island. 557 00:24:59,561 --> 00:25:01,775 人口从未繁盛 There were never many people. 558 00:25:01,825 --> 00:25:05,449 1845年最后统计仅12户 12 families at the last official count in 1845. 559 00:25:05,499 --> 00:25:08,555 佃农靠海鱼与 Crofters living off fish from the sea and potatoes 560 00:25:08,605 --> 00:25:10,239 小块垦地堆起的 from the lazy beds they heaped up 561 00:25:10,289 --> 00:25:12,622 懒床土豆为生 on small cultivated patches. 562 00:25:15,339 --> 00:25:17,088 - 我在想 与大陆相比 - I was thinking, that compared to the mainland, 563 00:25:17,138 --> 00:25:20,734 汉达显得青翠肥沃 近乎丰茂 Handa seems to be quite green and fertile, almost lush. 564 00:25:20,784 --> 00:25:22,661 对早期农人 Would have made it attractive to early farmers 565 00:25:22,711 --> 00:25:25,924 及前几个世纪的定居者应有吸引力 and people settling here in previous centuries then. 566 00:25:25,974 --> 00:25:27,694 是的 他们必定 Yeah, I mean they certainly would have had 567 00:25:27,744 --> 00:25:29,946 需大量耕作土地 to have worked the land quite a lot, 568 00:25:29,996 --> 00:25:31,432 从海岸运来海藻 bringing sea weed off the shore, 569 00:25:31,482 --> 00:25:35,972 添加养分再种植作物 and putting more nutrients in before they grew their crops. 570 00:25:36,022 --> 00:25:37,609 - 村庄就在上面？ - So the village is just up here then? 571 00:25:37,659 --> 00:25:38,479 - 是的 看那雾霭 - Yeah, just see the haze 572 00:25:38,529 --> 00:25:40,163 正逐渐显现 - 看到了 is coming into view just now. - Oh I see it, yeah. 573 00:25:40,213 --> 00:25:42,218 一些最完好的 Some of the best examples 574 00:25:42,268 --> 00:25:43,739 村舍就在此处 of the village just right here. 575 00:25:43,789 --> 00:25:45,225 啊哈 但无人居住 Ah-ha, but nobody lives here. 576 00:25:45,275 --> 00:25:46,281 如今没有 Not now. 577 00:25:46,331 --> 00:25:47,965 - 至少 近几百年 - Not for the last, what, couple of hundred years, 578 00:25:48,015 --> 00:25:49,033 150年左右？ 150 years or so? 579 00:25:49,083 --> 00:25:50,473 - 自1848年起 - Since 1848. 580 00:25:50,523 --> 00:25:51,738 可知离去原因？ Do you know why they left? 581 00:25:51,788 --> 00:25:54,130 - 是的 部分确因 - Yeah, so it was, definitely in part due 582 00:25:54,180 --> 00:25:56,301 马铃薯饥荒 to the potato famine that had hit. 583 00:25:56,351 --> 00:25:57,206 竟如此？ Oh really? 584 00:25:57,256 --> 00:25:58,147 - 是的 - Yeah. 585 00:25:58,197 --> 00:25:59,749 与肆虐爱尔兰的相同？ The same that was ravishing Ireland as well? 586 00:25:59,799 --> 00:26:00,724 - 正是 - Yeah, exactly. 587 00:26:00,774 --> 00:26:03,383 记录显示他们从拉克福德湾 There's records of them leaving from Loch Laxford, 588 00:26:03,433 --> 00:26:06,610 乘"埃伦号"前往新斯科舍 on a boat called the Ellen to Nova Scotia. 589 00:26:06,660 --> 00:26:07,516 - 去了新斯科舍 - And they went to Nova Scotia. 590 00:26:07,566 --> 00:26:08,349 - 是的 - Yeah. 591 00:26:08,399 --> 00:26:09,182 - 如众多先驱般 - As so many did before them. 592 00:26:09,232 --> 00:26:10,015 - 是的 - Yeah. 593 00:26:10,065 --> 00:26:10,848 - 是的 - Yeah. 594 00:26:10,898 --> 00:26:12,079 必定是极其艰苦的生存 Yeah, It must have been a very harsh existence. 595 00:26:12,129 --> 00:26:15,025 我实难想象 I can't quite imagine it myself. 596 00:26:17,536 --> 00:26:21,012 - 为体会往昔生活之艰 - To appreciate just how harsh life was in the past, 597 00:26:21,062 --> 00:26:23,578 我重返悬崖 I return to the cliffs. 598 00:26:23,628 --> 00:26:26,074 岛屿荒弃20年后 20 years after the island was abandoned, 599 00:26:26,124 --> 00:26:28,628 饥饿吸引其他岛民来到汉达 hunger drew other islanders to Handa, 600 00:26:28,678 --> 00:26:31,786 寻求其最著名地标 and the resources of its most famous landmark. 601 00:26:31,836 --> 00:26:33,586 的资源 一座300英尺海蚀柱 A 300 foot sea stack. 602 00:26:37,618 --> 00:26:39,983 那座令人敬畏的 That, awe-inspiring tower of rock 603 00:26:40,033 --> 00:26:42,410 是汉达巨柱 is the Great Stack of Handa. 604 00:26:42,460 --> 00:26:45,300 它如同坚固堡垒 守护 It's like an impregnable fortress for the thousands 605 00:26:45,350 --> 00:26:48,156 每年在此筑巢的数千海鸟 of seabirds that nest there every year. 606 00:26:48,206 --> 00:26:50,954 它们本应安全 And they must have felt quite safe from the clutches 607 00:26:51,004 --> 00:26:54,194 远离饥饿岛民的魔爪 直至1870年 of hungry islanders until in 1870, 608 00:26:54,244 --> 00:26:57,038 一队人马从路易斯岛划船而来 a party of men rowed over from Lewis 609 00:26:57,088 --> 00:26:59,255 攻破其防御 and breached its defenses. 610 00:27:01,384 --> 00:27:06,013 来此需横渡明奇海峡27英里 To get here, they had to row 27 miles across the Minch, 611 00:27:06,063 --> 00:27:08,938 本身已极耗体力 a tiring enough feat in itself. 612 00:27:08,988 --> 00:27:12,433 随后发生赫布里底群岛 There then followed one of the most extraordinary incidents 613 00:27:12,483 --> 00:27:16,868 悠长捕鸟史上最非凡事件 in the long history of wild fowling in the Hebrides. 614 00:27:16,918 --> 00:27:20,537 这些人将长绳 So what the men did is they draped a long rope 615 00:27:20,587 --> 00:27:23,822 从悬崖垂下 绕过岬角 from this cliff, carried it round the headland 616 00:27:23,872 --> 00:27:26,284 至巨柱另一侧 to the opposite side of the stack. 617 00:27:26,334 --> 00:27:29,418 拉紧绳索 使其 Pulled it taught, so the rope was actually lying 618 00:27:29,468 --> 00:27:32,240 横跨汉达巨柱顶端 on top of the Great Stack of Handa. 619 00:27:32,290 --> 00:27:36,582 徒手攀至顶峰 And then climbed hand over hand to get to the summit. 620 00:27:43,151 --> 00:27:44,764 一旦登上巨柱顶端 Once on top of the Great Stack, 621 00:27:44,814 --> 00:27:48,340 海鸟群落任其宰割 the seabird colony was at their mercy. 622 00:27:48,390 --> 00:27:50,275 我虽是狂热登山者 Now I'm a keen mountaineer, 623 00:27:50,325 --> 00:27:53,027 但这令人晕眩的壮举 but the prospect of this dizzying feat, 624 00:27:53,077 --> 00:27:56,800 未借助任何专业攀登装备 made without the aid of any specialist climbing equipment, 625 00:27:56,850 --> 00:28:00,341 让我对勇闯汉达悬崖 fills me with admiration for the men who braved the cliffs 626 00:28:00,391 --> 00:28:03,224 谋生的人们充满敬意 of Handa to put food on the table. 627 00:28:04,664 --> 00:28:07,238 这戏剧性地点 Now this is a truly dramatic location 628 00:28:07,288 --> 00:28:09,467 正是我旅程的终点 for me to finish my journey. 629 00:28:09,517 --> 00:28:12,137 身后巨崖提醒着 And the great cliffs behind me are a reminder 630 00:28:12,187 --> 00:28:14,923 汉达生活曾何等艰辛 of just how harsh life was on Handa, 631 00:28:14,973 --> 00:28:17,559 因它们曾是 because they were at one time a food store 632 00:28:17,609 --> 00:28:19,649 整个社群的食物仓库 for an entire community. 633 00:28:19,699 --> 00:28:22,156 由此向北向西 Now to the north and west of here are islands 634 00:28:22,206 --> 00:28:23,759 有更偏远岛屿 that are even more remote, 635 00:28:23,809 --> 00:28:26,266 生活更为艰难 and where life was even more difficult. 636 00:28:26,316 --> 00:28:30,214 但那需另次环岛之旅讲述 But that's a story for another Grand Tour. 637 00:28:32,528 --> 00:28:35,473 下回苏格兰环岛之旅 On my next Grand Tour of the Scottish Islands, 638 00:28:35,523 --> 00:28:38,690 我将加入艾拉岛的独特竞赛 I'll be joining a race apart, on Isla.