﻿1
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- 距离苏格兰本土30英里处
- 30 miles from mainland Scotland,

2
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有一片低洼群岛直面
is a chain of low-lying islands that face

3
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大西洋的全部威力
the full might of the Atlantic Ocean.

4
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这里宛如一片边疆之地
This really feels like a frontier,

5
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自然元素激烈交锋的战场
a battleground between the elements,

6
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海洋与陆地在此碰撞
the sea, and the land,

7
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其景象与力量震撼人心
which is seen and felt very dramatically,

8
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尤其在冬季月份
especially in the winter months,

9
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当狂暴风暴席卷这片海岸时
when tremendous storms lash this coast.

10
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本系列中 我将继续岛屿之旅
In this series, I'm continuing my island journey,

11
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探访设得兰群岛最北端
visiting the most northerly of the Shetland Islands,

12
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探索西部群岛
exploring the Western Isles,

13
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并揭开不列颠
and discovering the secrets

14
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最偏远之地的奥秘
of the loneliest places in Britain.

15
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像这样透过水面观赏它们
To see them through the water like this,

16
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太神奇了！
it's amazing!

17
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苏格兰拥有众多瑰丽岛屿
Scotland boasts a wonderful array of islands.

18
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实际上有近300座岛屿
In fact, there are nearly 300 of them,

19
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这还不包括环绕着
and that's not counting the myriad of stacks,

20
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6000英里曲折海岸线的
rocks and skerries,

21
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无数海蚀柱 礁石与岩礁
that surround 6000 convoluted miles of coast,

22
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从大西洋一直延伸到北海
from the Atlantic Ocean, to the North Sea.

23
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这次伟大之旅 我将前往外岛
For this grand tour, I'm heading to the outer isles

24
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尤伊斯特群岛与本贝丘拉岛
of the Uists and Benbecula.

25
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我的旅程从南尤伊斯特开始
My journey starts on South Uist,

26
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穿过本贝丘拉岛前往北尤伊斯特
and heads through Benbecula to North Uist.

27
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全程约50英里
It's a distance of roughly 50 miles,

28
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我将始终与大海为伴
and I'll never be far from the sea.

29
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对苏格兰大部分地区而言
For most of Scotland, the homes and villages

30
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居住于此的约4000居民的房屋村落
of the 4000 or so folk who live here,

31
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都隐藏在地平线之下
are hidden below the horizon.

32
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大多数人终其一生
And most people spend their lives

33
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都生活在仅高出
living just a few feet above the level

34
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风暴肆虐的北大西洋几英尺之处
of the stormy North Atlantic.

35
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这里是南尤伊斯特
This is South Uist.

36
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庆幸的是今日海面相对平静
And thankfully today, the sea is relatively calm.

37
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岛上居住着约1800人
It's home to about 1800 people,

38
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但在这片美丽辽阔
but here on this beautiful, vast,

39
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空旷的绵长沙滩上
empty stretch of sand,

40
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你根本察觉不到人的存在
you wouldn't know it.

41
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景色令人叹为观止
It's absolutely stunning,

42
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是个让人尽情呼吸的地方
a place to fill your lungs,

43
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而且几乎荒无人烟
and it's almost deserted.

44
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这里或许人烟稀少
There may not be many people here,

45
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但水资源极其丰富
but there is a lot of water.

46
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不仅环绕岛屿的海洋如此
Not just in the seas surrounding the island,

47
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还有点缀着这片土地的
but also in the spectacular patchwork

48
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壮观的淡水湖与池沼
of freshwater locks and pools,

49
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组成的斑斓水网
that pockmark the landscape.

50
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当最初（多为富有的访客） 
mostly wealthy visitors

51
00:02:33,807 --> 00:02:35,891
踏上赫布里底群岛时
made their way to the Hebrides,

52
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尤伊斯特群岛迅速确立了
the Uists quickly established a reputation

53
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作为进行某项特定活动的最佳之地
as the best place for one particular pursuit.

54
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垂钓始终吸引着
The fishing has always attracted

55
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旅行者来此
the traveler here.

56
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尤伊斯特群岛仿佛由垂钓者设计而成
For the Uists seem to have been designed by an angler,

57
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钓者可以共享鳟鱼池
where the fisherman can share out the pools of trout,

58
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一人一池
one to a man.

59
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- 这些未受破坏岛屿的独特生态
- The unique ecology of these unspoiled islands

60
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意味着它们已成为全球
means that they've become one of the best

61
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顶级垂钓目的地之一
angling destinations in the world.

62
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但你必须知晓下钩的地点与时机
But you've got to know where and when to cast your line,

63
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因此我寻求了猎场管理员罗里·麦吉利夫雷的帮助
so I've enlisted the help of gamekeeper Rory MacGillivray,

64
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让他透露些当地垂钓的秘诀
to let me in on some of the local fishing secrets.

65
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罗里 我们来这里的原因
So the reason we're coming down here, Rory,

66
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我想是因为退潮了吧？
I suppose, is because the tide's out?

67
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- 是的 我们要去这里的海池
- Yeah, we're going to the sea pool here,

68
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那是退潮后留下的水域
it's what's left after the tide goes out.

69
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我们就在那片边缘区域垂钓
And we're going to fish along the edge there.

70
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潮水退去时 会形成池沼
So as the tide goes down, it leaves pools,

71
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将鱼儿困住 几乎就像捕鱼陷阱？
which trap the fish, almost like a fish trap?

72
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是的 基本就是这样
Yes, that's basically what it does.

73
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好的 那我们试试
Alright, so we'll give it a shot

74
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看结果如何
and see what happens.

75
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正是在这些海水池中
And it's in these seawater pools

76
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我们希望能找到目标
that we hope to find our prey,

77
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野生海鳟
the wild seatrout.

78
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为引诱它们 我们以沙鳗为饵
To tempt them, we're using sand eels as bait.

79
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当你拖曳钓线穿过水面时
So, as you pull through the water,

80
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看到沙鳗了吗？
see the sand eel?

81
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我若是海鳟
If I were a seatrout,

82
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绝对会被它骗到
I'd be totally convinced by that.

83
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希望如此
Well, hopefully.

84
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那就抛竿试试
Well let's cast it out and see,

85
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看能否有好运
if we're gonna be lucky.

86
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罗里在此生活了一辈子
Rory has lived here all his life,

87
00:04:07,004 --> 00:04:09,372
从小学习如何
and learned how to fish these pools

88
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在这些池中垂钓
from an early age.

89
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- 我长大的地方 屋子下方
- Where I was brought up, we had a big sea pool

90
00:04:14,890 --> 00:04:16,401
有个大海池
down below the house.

91
00:04:16,451 --> 00:04:19,207
我们会做的 就是
And what we would do, is we would,

92
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去钓比目鱼
go down for flounders,

93
00:04:21,133 --> 00:04:22,383
我们会钓鱼——
we would fish--

94
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是用这种技巧吗？
But using this technique?

95
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是用这种技巧 是的
Using this technique, yeah.

96
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一根钓竿 一罐蠕虫
A rod, a tin of worms,

97
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一位好伙伴
and a good companion,

98
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谈笑风生
talk and laughter.

99
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若能钓到鱼
If there's a fish at the end of it,

100
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自是锦上添花
so much the better.

101
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但这里有阳光 清风与山涧
But there's the sun, and the wind, and a hill stream.

102
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这才是梦想的组成部分
This is the stuff that dreams are made of.

103
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过去这种活动 在当时
Was it entirely legal, this activity,

104
00:04:49,061 --> 00:04:51,978
完全合法吗？
that used to go on back in the day?

105
00:04:53,997 --> 00:04:55,151
- 不 不合法
- No, it wasn't.

106
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- 不 我的意思是
- No, I mean,

107
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我们不被允许在海池钓鱼
we weren't allowed to fish in sea pools.

108
00:05:00,296 --> 00:05:01,181
我们不被允许
We weren't allowed.

109
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你们不被允许在海池钓鱼？
You weren't allowed to fish in a sea pool?

110
00:05:02,733 --> 00:05:04,072
- 不 当然不允许
- No, we certainly weren't.

111
00:05:04,122 --> 00:05:04,905
真的吗？
Really?

112
00:05:04,955 --> 00:05:05,788
- 是的
- No.

113
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有猎场管理员
You had the gamekeepers,

114
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还有
you had,

115
00:05:11,454 --> 00:05:13,037
河道看守人
the river watchers.

116
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但区别在于 那是为了糊口
But there was a difference, it was one for the pot.

117
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这才是这个词的真实含义
And that was the true sense of the word,

118
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确实是为了糊口
it really was one for the pot.

119
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从许多方面而言 罗里是典型的
In many ways, Rory is the classic

120
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由偷猎者转变为守护者的人
poacher turned gamekeeper.

121
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如今 他的职责是保护岛屿资源
Now, it's his job to protect the island's resources.

122
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好的 你来吧
Yeah, on you go.

123
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- 现在试试我的运气
- Now let's try my luck.

124
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他的专业知识深受
And his expertise is much sought after,

125
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来访岛屿的垂钓者推崇
by anglers visiting the island.

126
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哦 刚才真是太差劲了
Oh, now that was really pathetic.

127
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如今 垂钓比以往任何时候都受欢迎
Today, angling is more popular than ever.

128
00:05:46,553 --> 00:05:50,077
- 人们厌倦了水库 重新放养的模式
- People are getting tired of the reservoir, restocked.

129
00:05:50,127 --> 00:05:51,333
- 嗯 这我并不惊讶
- Well I'm not surprised.

130
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- 是的 在这里你面对的是真正的挑战
- Yeah, here you're putting yourself against the real deal,

131
00:05:54,167 --> 00:05:55,127
是野生鱼类
it's a wild fish.

132
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没错
Right.

133
00:05:56,027 --> 00:06:00,642
- 对我而言 你知道 来这里垂钓
- And for me, you know, coming and fishing here,

134
00:06:00,692 --> 00:06:02,878
一天能钓到很多鱼
you can catch a lot of fish,

135
00:06:02,928 --> 00:06:05,121
但很大程度上取决于
in a day, but a lot of it depends

136
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你实际垂钓水平的高低
on how good an angler you actually are.

137
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- 到目前为止 没有鱼上钩
- So far, nothing is taking my bait.

138
00:06:11,679 --> 00:06:13,634
几小时过后
And after several hours,

139
00:06:13,684 --> 00:06:16,678
我们只剩下最后一条沙鳗
we're down to our last sand eel.

140
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我的牙齿开始打颤了
My teeth are beginning to chatter now.

141
00:06:18,677 --> 00:06:20,566
天气一点没变暖和
It's not getting any warmer.

142
00:06:22,603 --> 00:06:24,708
快来啊 小鱼儿！
Come on little fishy!

143
00:06:24,758 --> 00:06:26,758
游向我 上我的餐盘
Come to me, on my dishy.

144
00:06:33,380 --> 00:06:37,105
但就在我提议去炸鱼薯条店时
But, just as I'm about to suggest heading to the chippy.

145
00:06:38,124 --> 00:06:38,907
哇 哇 哇 哇！
Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa!

146
00:06:38,957 --> 00:06:39,740
- 你钓到了！ - 我钓到鱼了！
- You've got one! - I've got a fish!

147
00:06:39,790 --> 00:06:41,453
- 哦 太棒了！ - 我钓到鱼了！
- Oh, excellent! - I've got a fish!

148
00:06:41,503 --> 00:06:42,286
- 太好了！
- Yes!

149
00:06:42,336 --> 00:06:43,278
干得漂亮
Well done.

150
00:06:43,328 --> 00:06:44,312
- 哇 立刻就有反应！
- Why, it's immediate!

151
00:06:44,362 --> 00:06:45,145
快看！
Look at this!

152
00:06:45,195 --> 00:06:46,028
哦 不！
Oh, no!

153
00:06:47,206 --> 00:06:48,811
不！
No!

154
00:06:48,861 --> 00:06:49,840
它脱钩了！
He lost it!

155
00:06:49,890 --> 00:06:52,058
- 不 它逃走了 罗里！
- No, he got away, Rory!

156
00:06:52,108 --> 00:06:53,475
- 不 这有区别！
- No, there's a difference!

157
00:06:53,525 --> 00:06:54,347
是你弄丢的！
You lost it!

158
00:06:58,284 --> 00:06:59,936
而且是条大鱼 对吧？
It was a huge one as well, wasn't it?

159
00:06:59,986 --> 00:07:00,769
你看到尺寸了吗？
Did you see the size?

160
00:07:00,819 --> 00:07:01,805
- 好鱼 哦 没错 它是——
- Good, fish, oh yeah, it was--

161
00:07:01,855 --> 00:07:02,765
- 是个大家伙！
- It was a monster!

162
00:07:02,815 --> 00:07:03,598
- 巨无霸！
- Monster!

163
00:07:07,955 --> 00:07:10,210
看来今晚要饿肚子了
Looks like we're going hungry tonight.

164
00:07:10,260 --> 00:07:12,741
但垂钓不仅仅是为了捕鱼
But it's not just about catching a fish.

165
00:07:12,791 --> 00:07:13,574
没错
No.

166
00:07:13,624 --> 00:07:15,391
因为当你来到这样的地方
Because when you come to a place like this,

167
00:07:15,441 --> 00:07:16,886
景色很美
it's beautiful.

168
00:07:16,936 --> 00:07:17,719
很独特
It's unique.

169
00:07:17,769 --> 00:07:18,552
是的 我是说——
Yeah, I mean--

170
00:07:18,602 --> 00:07:19,677
仿佛你融入了更宏大的存在
Like you're part of something bigger.

171
00:07:19,727 --> 00:07:20,704
是的
Yeah.

172
00:07:26,797 --> 00:07:29,677
除了一身寒意毫无所获
Having caught nothing more than a chill,

173
00:07:29,727 --> 00:07:33,057
我向北行进探索岛屿更多区域
I head north to explore more of the island.

174
00:07:37,664 --> 00:07:40,788
若你追求与世隔绝的孤独感
If it's isolation and solitude that you're after,

175
00:07:40,838 --> 00:07:43,255
这里是个好去处
this is a good place to come.

176
00:07:44,974 --> 00:07:47,366
或许这正是许多寻求
Perhaps that's why many seeking respite

177
00:07:47,416 --> 00:07:49,713
摆脱现代生活压力的人们
from the stresses of modern life,

178
00:07:49,763 --> 00:07:50,901
来此的原因
found their way here.

179
00:07:50,951 --> 00:07:51,734
左转 从这里下去
Left, down here.

180
00:07:51,784 --> 00:07:52,567
是吗？
Yes?

181
00:07:52,617 --> 00:07:53,589
就在左边五英里处
And it's just five miles on your left.

182
00:07:53,639 --> 00:07:54,925
好的 非常感谢
Okay, thank you very much.

183
00:07:54,975 --> 00:07:58,226
他们始终受到热情接待
And they've always received a warm welcome.

184
00:07:58,276 --> 00:08:01,014
接待访客是传统 是生活的一部分
The visitor is a tradition, part of the life.

185
00:08:01,064 --> 00:08:03,139
是好客需求的延伸
An extension of the need to be hospitable,

186
00:08:03,189 --> 00:08:05,474
这不仅根植于当地人的慷慨
which is rooted not just in the generosity

187
00:08:05,524 --> 00:08:09,198
也源于他们的同理心
of the local folk, but also in their sensibility.

188
00:08:09,248 --> 00:08:11,275
岛屿上人与人之间的距离
The distances between people in the islands

189
00:08:11,325 --> 00:08:12,994
反而将他们紧密相连
bonded them together.

190
00:08:13,044 --> 00:08:15,045
难以想象会有任何门扉
And it became unthinkable that any door

191
00:08:15,095 --> 00:08:17,065
对来访者紧闭
should be locked against you.

192
00:08:17,115 --> 00:08:19,533
因此当你旅行时 日落时分所至之门
So that when you travel, the door you reach

193
00:08:19,583 --> 00:08:22,553
即是你要敲响之门
when the sun goes down, is the door you knock.

194
00:08:22,603 --> 00:08:25,557
这便是你的留宿之处 直到阳光再次
And that is where you stay until the sun lights your road

195
00:08:25,607 --> 00:08:26,774
为你照亮前路
for you again.

196
00:08:28,344 --> 00:08:31,885
但在1950年代 有一群访客到来
But in the 1950s, one group of visitors arrived

197
00:08:31,935 --> 00:08:35,380
却未受到如此热情的欢迎
who didn't get quite such a warm welcome.

198
00:08:38,014 --> 00:08:42,022
1957年 国防部宣布计划
In 1957, the Ministry of Defense unveiled plans

199
00:08:42,072 --> 00:08:45,523
在此设立导弹试验场
to site a missile testing range here.

200
00:08:45,573 --> 00:08:50,141
"威士忌盛宴"变成了"火箭盛宴"
Whiskey galore became rockets galore.

201
00:08:50,191 --> 00:08:52,579
- 我对此感到非常不满
- I don't feel very happy at all about this.

202
00:08:52,629 --> 00:08:53,412
为什么？
Why is that?

203
00:08:53,462 --> 00:08:56,066
- 我从一开始就反对
- I'm against it from the very beginning.

204
00:08:56,116 --> 00:08:58,681
- 我认为这是件好事
- Well I think it is a very good thing.

205
00:08:58,731 --> 00:09:00,898
对岛屿是好事
Good thing for the island.

206
00:09:02,229 --> 00:09:04,322
当地教师玛丽·麦金尼斯
Local teacher Mary MacInnes

207
00:09:04,372 --> 00:09:07,088
当时还是个小女孩 她记得
was a young girl at the time, and she remembers

208
00:09:07,138 --> 00:09:11,330
计划如何使岛上意见产生分歧
how the plans divided opinion on the island.

209
00:09:11,380 --> 00:09:14,871
- 有些人非常热衷于新事物
- Some people were very keen on brand new things,

210
00:09:14,921 --> 00:09:19,761
涌入 并摒弃旧观念
coming in, and just getting rid of the old ideas.

211
00:09:19,811 --> 00:09:23,537
许多人则希望维持小农经济的生活方式
Many others wanted to maintain the crofting lifestyle,

212
00:09:23,587 --> 00:09:26,447
不愿让整个区域
and did not want to have the whole area

213
00:09:26,497 --> 00:09:29,334
被柏油路或乡间尘土覆盖 无论是什么
under tarmac or country dirt, whatever it might be.

214
00:09:29,384 --> 00:09:31,361
所以他们为自己的未来担忧？
So they were fearing for their future?

215
00:09:31,411 --> 00:09:32,543
- 是的
- They were.

216
00:09:32,593 --> 00:09:34,900
这场抗争由
The cause was being fought,

217
00:09:34,950 --> 00:09:37,686
当地教区神父领导
against it, by the local parish priest.

218
00:09:37,736 --> 00:09:38,798
- 嗯哼？
- Uh huh?

219
00:09:38,848 --> 00:09:40,994
- 他被昵称为火箭神父 他的名字是——
- Who was nicknamed Father Rocket, his name was--

220
00:09:41,044 --> 00:09:42,200
火箭神父？
Father Rocket?

221
00:09:42,250 --> 00:09:44,493
- 是的 他名叫约翰·莫里森神父
- Yes, his name was Father John Morrison.

222
00:09:44,543 --> 00:09:45,816
他带头
And he took the lead

223
00:09:45,866 --> 00:09:49,816
为岛民争取最佳权益
in trying to find the best deal for the islanders.

224
00:09:53,303 --> 00:09:56,032
火箭神父发起抗争以阻止小农
Father Rocket took up the fight to stop crofters

225
00:09:56,082 --> 00:09:58,782
被强迫离开自己的土地
being forced off their land.

226
00:09:58,832 --> 00:10:01,171
在全世界目光的注视下
And with the eyes of the world watching,

227
00:10:01,221 --> 00:10:03,638
对抗国防部的强权
took on the might of the MOD.

228
00:10:08,974 --> 00:10:11,375
尽管寻求了神之干预
Despite seeking divine intervention,

229
00:10:11,425 --> 00:10:13,831
建设仍进行了
construction did go ahead.

230
00:10:13,881 --> 00:10:16,175
但火箭神父的运动确保了
But Father Rocket's campaign ensured that

231
00:10:16,225 --> 00:10:19,892
当地人民从项目中受益
the local people benefited from the project.

232
00:10:20,991 --> 00:10:23,504
奇迹般地 他甚至成功说服了
Miraculously, he even managed to persuade

233
00:10:23,554 --> 00:10:26,493
军队帮他竖立起这座巨大
the army to help him erect this huge,

234
00:10:26,543 --> 00:10:29,626
30英尺高的雕像俯瞰试验场
30-foot statue overlooking the range.

235
00:10:32,184 --> 00:10:35,579
- 雕像的职责是保护岛民安全
- The statue's duty was to keep the islanders safe.

236
00:10:35,629 --> 00:10:38,349
某种程度上像是天堂女警 是吗？
- A kind of heavenly policewoman, in a way was it?

237
00:10:38,399 --> 00:10:40,077
- 可以这么说 是的
- That's the word, yes.

238
00:10:40,127 --> 00:10:41,158
确保岛上生活中
Making sure that these two new features

239
00:10:41,208 --> 00:10:42,855
这两个新特征
of the island life were gonna

240
00:10:42,905 --> 00:10:44,535
能保持某种和谐
remain in some kind of harmony.

241
00:10:44,585 --> 00:10:45,668
是的
Yes.

242
00:10:48,984 --> 00:10:50,901
群岛圣母注视着
Our Lady of the Isles watched

243
00:10:50,951 --> 00:10:53,034
导弹试验的开始
as missile testing began.

244
00:10:54,571 --> 00:10:56,722
你在火箭环境中长大 是什么感觉？
You grew up with the rockets, what was it like?

245
00:10:56,772 --> 00:10:58,724
- 会升起一面红旗
- A red flag would be hoisted.

246
00:10:58,774 --> 00:10:59,557
- 嗯哼？
- Uh huh?

247
00:10:59,607 --> 00:11:00,493
- 这是给我们所有人的信号
- Which was a signal for us all

248
00:11:00,543 --> 00:11:04,370
远离陆地的某些区域
to keep away from certain parts of the land.

249
00:11:04,420 --> 00:11:06,989
我们对此非常焦虑和恐惧
We were very anxious and very frightened about it,

250
00:11:07,039 --> 00:11:09,127
还会传来很大噪音
and there would be quite a lot of noise,

251
00:11:09,177 --> 00:11:10,186
就是一声巨响
just a big boom.

252
00:11:14,046 --> 00:11:16,726
你能看到小小的火焰
And you could see the little fire.

253
00:11:16,776 --> 00:11:17,958
你能听到声音
And you could hear it,

254
00:11:18,008 --> 00:11:21,491
安全地淹没在大西洋中
safely drowning itself in the Atlantic.

255
00:11:21,541 --> 00:11:24,190
他们每天会发射两三次
They would fire two or three a day.

256
00:11:24,240 --> 00:11:27,211
我们都会跑开 回家去
We'd just all run away, and went home.

257
00:11:30,599 --> 00:11:32,621
然而没过多久
It didn't take long, however,

258
00:11:32,671 --> 00:11:35,776
约400名军方人员便沦陷于
for the 400 or so army staff to succumb

259
00:11:35,826 --> 00:11:38,699
岛屿的魅力之中
to the charms of the island.

260
00:11:38,749 --> 00:11:39,999
以及当地人的魅力
And its locals.

261
00:11:42,280 --> 00:11:44,456
- 哦 我完全不反对他们
- Oh, I'm not against them at all.

262
00:11:44,506 --> 00:11:46,286
我是说 他们也是人 身不由己
I mean, they're human beings, and they can't help it

263
00:11:46,336 --> 00:11:48,020
必须来到这里
if they've got to come here.

264
00:11:48,070 --> 00:11:48,853
你不介意吗？
You wouldn't mind?

265
00:11:48,903 --> 00:11:50,646
- 我完全不介意
- I wouldn't mind at all.

266
00:11:53,333 --> 00:11:56,959
大多数军事人员都是年轻男性
Most of the military personnel were young men,

267
00:11:57,009 --> 00:11:59,322
其中许多人英俊且单身
many of them handsome and unattached.

268
00:11:59,372 --> 00:12:00,632
这简直是派对的完美配方！
That's a recipe for a party!

269
00:12:00,682 --> 00:12:02,295
- 绝对是的！
- Absolutely!

270
00:12:02,345 --> 00:12:04,652
持续不断的派对 他们找到了
An ongoing party and they found

271
00:12:04,702 --> 00:12:06,556
伴侣 妻子和丈夫
partners and wives and husbands,

272
00:12:06,606 --> 00:12:09,705
直到今天 许多人都在此安家
and to this day, many of them have made their homes,

273
00:12:09,755 --> 00:12:11,313
扎根于此
and put their roots down here,

274
00:12:11,363 --> 00:12:14,113
成为我们社区的一部分
and have become part of our community.

275
00:12:17,840 --> 00:12:21,843
人们完全被岛屿的美景吸引
People were just taken by the beauty of the island.

276
00:12:21,893 --> 00:12:23,960
年轻女性的美丽
The beauty of the young women,

277
00:12:24,010 --> 00:12:25,093
以及社区真诚的
and the true,

278
00:12:26,728 --> 00:12:29,145
好客之风
hospitality of the community.

279
00:12:32,851 --> 00:12:36,252
- 在圣母与圣婴的注视下
- Under the watchful gaze of the Madonna and child,

280
00:12:36,302 --> 00:12:38,405
并留意着天空
and with one eye on the skies,

281
00:12:38,455 --> 00:12:40,595
我正前往这片岛链中
I'm heading for my next destination

282
00:12:40,645 --> 00:12:42,728
我的下一个目的地
in this chain of islands.

283
00:12:43,598 --> 00:12:46,178
这里居住着约1300人
Home to around 1300 people,

284
00:12:46,228 --> 00:12:48,773
这座小岛常被称作
this small island is often referred to

285
00:12:48,823 --> 00:12:50,298
两大邻岛之间的
as the stepping stone

286
00:12:50,348 --> 00:12:52,878
垫脚石
between its two larger neighbors.

287
00:12:52,928 --> 00:12:56,934
但其意义远不止于此
But there's a lot more to it than that.

288
00:12:56,984 --> 00:13:01,151
本贝丘拉是苏格兰唯一不是山的"本"
Benbecula is the only ben in Scotland that isn't a hill.

289
00:13:02,187 --> 00:13:04,942
在盖尔语中 本贝丘拉实际意为
Now in Gaelic, Benbecula actually means

290
00:13:04,992 --> 00:13:07,765
两峡湾之间的山
the hill between two fjords,

291
00:13:07,815 --> 00:13:10,145
这很合理 因为在过去
which kinda makes sense because in the old days,

292
00:13:10,195 --> 00:13:12,161
要来到这里必须跨越
in order to get here you had to cross

293
00:13:12,211 --> 00:13:13,938
一道海湾
an arm of the sea.

294
00:13:13,988 --> 00:13:15,423
而山本身 嗯
And the hill itself, well,

295
00:13:15,473 --> 00:13:17,449
根本不算什么"本"
it's not a ben anything.

296
00:13:17,499 --> 00:13:19,082
它叫鲁瓦尔山
It's called Rueval.

297
00:13:20,061 --> 00:13:21,624
就在那边
And it's over there.

298
00:13:27,909 --> 00:13:30,492
它可能仅高出127米
It may rise to only 127 meters,

299
00:13:31,472 --> 00:13:33,390
但当我进行这段短暂攀登时
but as I make this short climb,

300
00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:37,372
我开始看到下方更多壮丽景色
I begin to see more of the spectacular landscape below.

301
00:13:40,629 --> 00:13:43,552
从这里 你可以看到数英里外的景象
From here, you can see for miles around.

302
00:13:43,602 --> 00:13:45,200
如果你恰巧是
Useful if you happen to be

303
00:13:45,250 --> 00:13:47,417
英国头号通缉犯 这就很有用了
Britain's most wanted man.

304
00:13:55,282 --> 00:13:57,833
邦妮王子查理就是如此
That was the case for Bonnie Prince Charlie,

305
00:13:57,883 --> 00:14:01,216
他在1746年夏天一直在逃亡
who spent the summer of 1746 on the run.

306
00:14:02,928 --> 00:14:04,459
他抵达本贝丘拉
He arrived on Benbecula

307
00:14:04,509 --> 00:14:06,805
是在他的起义被镇压
after his uprising had been crushed

308
00:14:06,855 --> 00:14:09,022
于卡洛登战役之后
at the Battle of Culloden.

309
00:14:10,364 --> 00:14:12,284
更糟糕的是
To make matters even worse,

310
00:14:12,334 --> 00:14:14,435
王子被悬赏捉拿
the prince had a price on his head,

311
00:14:14,485 --> 00:14:16,881
赏金高达难以置信的3万英镑
an unbelievable 30,000 pounds.

312
00:14:16,931 --> 00:14:19,046
相当于今天的
That's the equivalent in today's money,

313
00:14:19,096 --> 00:14:20,263
5000万英镑
of 50 million.

314
00:14:21,168 --> 00:14:22,721
这是笔国王的赎金
It was a king's ransom.

315
00:14:22,771 --> 00:14:26,134
嗯 王子的赎金 非常诱人
Well, a prince's ransom, and it was very tempting.

316
00:14:30,337 --> 00:14:32,308
当他到达本贝丘拉时
By the time he reached Benbecula,

317
00:14:32,358 --> 00:14:34,364
他疲惫 饥饿
he was tired, hungry,

318
00:14:34,414 --> 00:14:35,581
且绝望
and desperate.

319
00:14:37,948 --> 00:14:40,175
但王子即将被
But the prince was about to be rescued

320
00:14:40,225 --> 00:14:42,115
一位勇敢的当地女性所救
by a courageous local woman,

321
00:14:42,165 --> 00:14:45,165
她将冒着生命危险拯救他
who would risk her life to save him.

322
00:14:51,681 --> 00:14:54,886
弗洛拉·麦克唐纳被描述为
Flora MacDonald has been described as a woman

323
00:14:54,936 --> 00:14:57,757
面容柔和 举止优雅
with soft features, gentle manners,

324
00:14:57,807 --> 00:15:00,640
心灵善良 仪态端庄的女性
a kind soul, and elegant presence.

325
00:15:02,914 --> 00:15:06,181
她遇见王子时年仅24岁
She was just 24 when she met the prince,

326
00:15:06,231 --> 00:15:08,503
一个大胆的计划被制定
and an audacious scheme was hatched

327
00:15:08,553 --> 00:15:10,553
要将他安全转移
to spirit him to safety.

328
00:15:13,241 --> 00:15:17,557
难以置信的是 计划采用了古老的哑剧伎俩
Incredibly, the plan involved the age-old pantomime trick

329
00:15:17,607 --> 00:15:21,468
即男扮女装 由王子扮演贵妇
of cross-dressing, with the prince playing the dame.

330
00:15:21,518 --> 00:15:23,784
穿上女装 英俊王子
Slipping into a frock, the bonnie prince

331
00:15:23,834 --> 00:15:26,446
变成了邦妮·贝蒂·伯克
became Bonnie Betty Burke,

332
00:15:26,496 --> 00:15:28,597
弗洛拉忠实的女仆
Flora's devoted maidservant,

333
00:15:28,647 --> 00:15:29,694
两人一同
and together

334
00:15:29,744 --> 00:15:30,832
扬帆
they sailed

335
00:15:30,882 --> 00:15:32,512
渡海
over the sea,

336
00:15:32,562 --> 00:15:33,566
前往斯凯岛
to sky,

337
00:15:33,616 --> 00:15:36,128
这一事件自此被永恒铭记
an event immortalized ever since,

338
00:15:36,178 --> 00:15:38,628
出现在数百万酥饼罐上
on millions of shortbread tins.

339
00:15:43,245 --> 00:15:45,512
查理王子逃往法国
Prince Charlie escaped to France,

340
00:15:45,562 --> 00:15:47,690
过着流亡生活
and lived the life of an exile,

341
00:15:47,740 --> 00:15:50,907
而弗洛拉·麦克唐纳成为了传奇
while Flora MacDonald became a legend.

342
00:15:53,966 --> 00:15:55,388
一堆简单的石冢
A simple mound of stones

343
00:15:55,438 --> 00:15:58,351
标记着弗洛拉·麦克唐纳的出生地
marks the birthplace of Flora MacDonald.

344
00:15:58,401 --> 00:16:02,207
约翰逊博士宣称 她的名字将载入史册
Her name will be mentioned in history, declared Dr. Johnson,

345
00:16:02,257 --> 00:16:05,112
若勇气与忠诚是美德
and if courage and fidelity be virtues,

346
00:16:05,162 --> 00:16:06,912
必将光荣地载入史册
mentioned with honor.

347
00:16:13,583 --> 00:16:15,326
- 我们到了 顶峰
- Here we are, the summit,

348
00:16:15,376 --> 00:16:16,209
鲁瓦尔山的顶峰
of Rueval.

349
00:16:17,380 --> 00:16:18,936
我必须说
And I have to say that,

350
00:16:18,986 --> 00:16:20,661
这里的景色绝对
the view certainly

351
00:16:20,711 --> 00:16:23,008
值得付出的努力
repays the effort to get here.

352
00:16:23,058 --> 00:16:25,613
你可以一路俯瞰整个岛链
You can see all the way down the island chain,

353
00:16:25,663 --> 00:16:28,004
以及周围这些构成
and all around these tiny little lochens

354
00:16:28,054 --> 00:16:29,842
本贝丘拉的小湖泊
that make up Benbecula,

355
00:16:29,892 --> 00:16:33,559
以及南北尤伊斯特的这些平地
and these flatlands of North and South Uist.

356
00:16:34,984 --> 00:16:38,436
这真是相当非凡的景观
This really is a quite remarkable landscape.

357
00:16:38,486 --> 00:16:41,538
从海岸到海岸有成千上万的
There are thousands of lochens and petit pools

358
00:16:41,588 --> 00:16:43,255
湖泊与小水塘
from shore to shore.

359
00:16:45,214 --> 00:16:48,646
当我穿过堤道前往北尤伊斯特时
And as I head across the causeway to North Uist,

360
00:16:48,696 --> 00:16:50,251
一个事实让我震撼
I'm struck by the fact

361
00:16:50,301 --> 00:16:54,468
这座岛的水域似乎比陆地还多
that this island seems to be more water than land.

362
00:16:59,418 --> 00:17:00,693
这种地方
This is the sort of place

363
00:17:00,743 --> 00:17:04,963
威灵顿长筒靴是绝对必需品
where Wellington boots are absolutely essential.

364
00:17:05,013 --> 00:17:08,056
事实上 据说这里的岛民
In fact, it said that the islanders here,

365
00:17:08,106 --> 00:17:09,939
出生时就穿着它们
are born wearing them.

366
00:17:30,134 --> 00:17:32,578
周围有这么多水
With so much water lying around,

367
00:17:32,628 --> 00:17:34,579
存在一个非常现实的危险
there's a very real danger

368
00:17:34,629 --> 00:17:38,534
湿气可能侵入你的骨骼
that the damp might get into your bones,

369
00:17:38,584 --> 00:17:41,294
最终你需要看医生
and you'll end up needing a doctor,

370
00:17:41,344 --> 00:17:43,040
而在不久以前
which not so long ago,

371
00:17:43,090 --> 00:17:44,257
这很困难
was difficult.

372
00:17:46,117 --> 00:17:47,308
如果你生病了
If you fell ill,

373
00:17:47,358 --> 00:17:49,776
从本土请医疗援助
sending for medical help from the mainland,

374
00:17:49,826 --> 00:17:51,396
可能耗时很长
could take a long time,

375
00:17:51,446 --> 00:17:52,865
且费用昂贵
and was expensive.

376
00:17:58,206 --> 00:18:00,048
过去 家中会派一名成员
In the old days, a member of the household

377
00:18:00,098 --> 00:18:02,747
到室外 被指示查看
was sent outside and instructed to look

378
00:18:02,797 --> 00:18:05,870
他们遇到的第一块大石头下面
under the first large stone they came across,

379
00:18:05,920 --> 00:18:10,079
看下面是否有生物
to see if there was anything living underneath.

380
00:18:11,349 --> 00:18:13,128
那么 如果有
Now, if there was,

381
00:18:13,178 --> 00:18:15,239
一只潮虫 或蠕虫之类的东西
a slater, or a worm or something,

382
00:18:15,289 --> 00:18:17,466
那意味着有希望
that meant there was hope,

383
00:18:17,516 --> 00:18:19,505
没必要叫医生
and was no point in calling the doctor.

384
00:18:19,555 --> 00:18:21,184
另一方面 如果
If, on the other hand,

385
00:18:21,234 --> 00:18:23,619
石头下没有活物
there was nothing alive under the stone,

386
00:18:23,669 --> 00:18:25,918
那意味着叫医生也没用
that meant there was no point in calling the doctor

387
00:18:25,968 --> 00:18:28,217
因为病人即将死亡
because the patient was going to die.

388
00:18:28,267 --> 00:18:29,972
我们来再检查一下
Let's double check,

389
00:18:30,022 --> 00:18:30,939
这下面
under here.

390
00:18:32,079 --> 00:18:32,912
哦 天啊
Oh dear.

391
00:18:34,492 --> 00:18:35,754
没有生命迹象
No signs of life.

392
00:18:35,804 --> 00:18:37,721
预后不容乐观
The prognosis is bleak.

393
00:18:40,786 --> 00:18:42,138
- 嗯 什么情况？
- Well, what's the case?

394
00:18:42,188 --> 00:18:45,574
- 她在克罗夫特路 离这里约七英里
- She's at Crofter's Way, about seven miles from here.

395
00:18:48,638 --> 00:18:50,958
是的 就是这个东西
Yes, it was this thing.

396
00:18:51,008 --> 00:18:51,894
- 然后呢？
- And?

397
00:18:51,944 --> 00:18:54,970
- 我的初步诊断是卵巢囊肿
- My first diagnosis was an ovarian cyst.

398
00:18:57,894 --> 00:19:02,139
但我不喜欢它的样子
But I didn't like the look of it.

399
00:19:02,189 --> 00:19:03,350
这部电影叫《高地医生》
This film is called Highland Doctor.

400
00:19:03,400 --> 00:19:06,072
- 下午好 护士
- Good afternoon, nurse.

401
00:19:06,122 --> 00:19:08,263
主角很大程度上灵感来源于
And the main character is largely inspired

402
00:19:08,313 --> 00:19:11,038
亚历山大·麦克劳德医生
by Doctor Alexander Macleod,

403
00:19:11,088 --> 00:19:14,088
他为改善岛民的生活与健康
who did much to improve the life and health

404
00:19:14,138 --> 00:19:15,789
自1930年代起做出了巨大贡献
of islanders from the 1930s onwards.

405
00:19:15,839 --> 00:19:19,031
- 哦 现在没事了 麦克唐纳夫人
- Oh, that alright now, Mrs. McDonald.

406
00:19:19,081 --> 00:19:21,971
我来到他曾经的住所和诊所
I've come to what was his home and surgery,

407
00:19:22,021 --> 00:19:24,533
会见他的儿媳洛娜·麦克劳德
to meet his daughter-in-law, Lorna Macleod,

408
00:19:24,583 --> 00:19:26,333
她仍居住于此
who still lives here.

409
00:19:27,951 --> 00:19:30,793
我想进一步了解这位杰出人物
I want to know more about this remarkable man,

410
00:19:30,843 --> 00:19:34,032
以及他所做的救死扶伤的工作
and the life-saving work that he did.

411
00:19:34,082 --> 00:19:34,950
这就是他
There he is.

412
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:35,783
是的 那是——
Yes, that was--

413
00:19:35,833 --> 00:19:36,814
他看起来是个认真的人
He's an earnest-looking chap.

414
00:19:36,864 --> 00:19:38,415
- 是的 他可能相当严肃
- Yes, he could be quite serious,

415
00:19:38,465 --> 00:19:40,953
但有着干涩的幽默感
but had a dry sense of humor.

416
00:19:41,003 --> 00:19:43,013
曾参加一战在加里波利作战
Was in the First World War at Gallipoli,

417
00:19:43,063 --> 00:19:45,626
幸存下来 之后在一战后
survived that, and then went to medical school

418
00:19:45,676 --> 00:19:47,598
去了医学院
after the First World War.

419
00:19:47,648 --> 00:19:50,501
1932年 他来到这里工作
In 1932, he came to work here,

420
00:19:50,551 --> 00:19:52,443
依据高地与岛屿医疗计划
under the Highlands and Islands Medical Scheme,

421
00:19:52,493 --> 00:19:56,418
这是首次有医生被任命
and it was the first time a doctor had been

422
00:19:56,468 --> 00:20:00,062
而患者无需支付费用
appointed, where patients wouldn't have to pay.

423
00:20:00,112 --> 00:20:03,621
这是一场革命 就岛屿
And this was a revolution, as far as people in the islands,

424
00:20:03,671 --> 00:20:05,450
与高地的人们而言
and the highlands were concerned.

425
00:20:05,500 --> 00:20:07,683
我肯定人们无法适应
I'm sure people couldn't get used to the idea

426
00:20:07,733 --> 00:20:09,919
看病不用付钱的想法
that they didn't have to pay for the doctor.

427
00:20:12,027 --> 00:20:13,706
这就是诊所 原来的样子
That's the surgery, that it was.

428
00:20:13,756 --> 00:20:14,539
这就是诊所？
That's the surgery?

429
00:20:14,589 --> 00:20:15,637
- 是的 我想这家伙在等着
- Yes, I think this guys' waiting

430
00:20:15,687 --> 00:20:17,304
拔掉几颗牙
to have some teeth removed.

431
00:20:17,354 --> 00:20:18,625
哦 他还做牙科工作？
Oh, he was doing dental work as well?

432
00:20:18,675 --> 00:20:20,001
- 嗯 当时没有牙医
- Well, there was no dentist.

433
00:20:20,051 --> 00:20:21,422
- 对 哦 多么可怕的想法！
- Right, oh what a horrifying thought!

434
00:20:21,472 --> 00:20:24,172
他必须这么做！
He would have to!

435
00:20:24,222 --> 00:20:26,691
在1930年代 作为一名岛屿医生
What was it like being an island doctor,

436
00:20:26,741 --> 00:20:28,548
是怎样的体验？
back in the 1930s?

437
00:20:28,598 --> 00:20:30,061
- 没有电话
- There was no telephone.

438
00:20:30,111 --> 00:20:33,239
人们过去通过电报请医生
People used to send for a doctor by telegram,

439
00:20:33,289 --> 00:20:35,924
从岛的一边发到另一边
from one side of the island to the other.

440
00:20:37,759 --> 00:20:39,702
道路非常糟糕
Though, a very poor road.

441
00:20:39,752 --> 00:20:43,359
很多地方你无法
A lot of the places you wouldn't have been able to get to,

442
00:20:43,409 --> 00:20:46,161
开车到达 需要多次渡海
by car, there were a lot of sea crossings,

443
00:20:46,211 --> 00:20:47,976
有时需要骑马
and sometimes on horseback.

444
00:20:50,509 --> 00:20:51,889
所以在我看来 你的公公
So it sounds to me as if your father-in-law

445
00:20:51,939 --> 00:20:53,873
花费大量时间挣扎
spent a lot of his time struggling

446
00:20:53,923 --> 00:20:56,182
只为见到病人
just to get to see a patient.

447
00:20:56,232 --> 00:20:57,937
嗯 是的 没错 我是说
Well, yes, that's right, I mean,

448
00:20:57,987 --> 00:21:00,193
如果有病人需要你 你必须去
if there was a patient needed you, you had to go.

449
00:21:00,243 --> 00:21:02,011
他回来时是否收到过
Did he ever come back with

450
00:21:02,061 --> 00:21:03,962
额外的服务报酬？
extra payment for his services?

451
00:21:04,012 --> 00:21:06,510
- 哦 是的 我想他们经常收到 你知道
- Oh, yes, I think they often got, you know,

452
00:21:06,560 --> 00:21:07,977
一条羊腿或
a leg of lamb or,

453
00:21:08,889 --> 00:21:10,472
鸡蛋或
eggs, or,

454
00:21:10,522 --> 00:21:12,406
一只母鸡 或类似的东西
a hen, or something like that.

455
00:21:12,456 --> 00:21:15,745
当他初到岛上时
And when he first came to the island,

456
00:21:15,795 --> 00:21:19,555
一位病人用拖车给他送来一车泥炭
a patient arrived with a trailer-load of peat for him,

457
00:21:19,605 --> 00:21:22,354
这真的相当不错
which was really rather nice.

458
00:21:22,404 --> 00:21:24,504
得益于该计划的成功
Thanks to the success of the scheme,

459
00:21:24,554 --> 00:21:26,917
以及麦克劳德医生的倡导
and Dr. Macleod's campaigning,

460
00:21:26,967 --> 00:21:28,487
计划得以制定
plans were put in place

461
00:21:28,537 --> 00:21:31,037
建立国家医疗服务体系
for a national health service.

462
00:21:32,232 --> 00:21:35,075
他参加了很多英国医学会的会议
He went away to a lot of BMA meetings,

463
00:21:35,125 --> 00:21:36,721
穿着苏格兰短裙站起来
stood up in his kilt,

464
00:21:36,771 --> 00:21:41,285
始终为他们能为高地与岛屿争取到的
and always fought for the best facilities they could get

465
00:21:41,335 --> 00:21:42,917
最佳设施而奋斗
for the Highlands and Islands.

466
00:21:42,967 --> 00:21:44,794
这一定是一次真正
It must have been a really

467
00:21:44,844 --> 00:21:46,500
开创性的经历
pioneering experience,

468
00:21:46,550 --> 00:21:48,113
因为我想在某种程度上
because in some ways I suppose,

469
00:21:48,163 --> 00:21:50,435
无论医疗还是地理上
medically and geographically,

470
00:21:50,485 --> 00:21:53,319
这里的尤伊斯特群岛都处于一种前沿地带
the Uists here are on kind of a frontier,

471
00:21:53,369 --> 00:21:55,780
当这项新医疗计划推出时
when this new health program had been rolled out.

472
00:21:55,830 --> 00:21:57,930
- 是的 这令人惊叹的是
- Yes, this was the amazing thing that,

473
00:21:57,980 --> 00:22:00,005
苏格兰拥有这项卓越的
Scotland had this amazing

474
00:22:00,055 --> 00:22:02,522
高地与岛屿计划
Highlands and Islands scheme.

475
00:22:02,572 --> 00:22:05,262
父亲参与了众多会议
Father was involved in so many meetings,

476
00:22:05,312 --> 00:22:07,346
帮助建立国家医疗服务体系——
helping set up the national health service--

477
00:22:07,396 --> 00:22:08,614
因为他有第一手经验
Because he had firsthand experience.

478
00:22:08,664 --> 00:22:09,447
- 是的
- Yes.

479
00:22:09,497 --> 00:22:11,559
了解实际情况 原型从这里开始
What it was like, and the prototype started here.

480
00:22:11,609 --> 00:22:12,392
是的
Yes.

481
00:22:12,442 --> 00:22:15,222
- 我们有一些很棒的剪报
- We've got some wonderful newspaper cuttings,

482
00:22:15,272 --> 00:22:16,921
这向我表明
which suggest to me that,

483
00:22:16,971 --> 00:22:18,765
在他有生之年他成为了
during his lifetime he became

484
00:22:18,815 --> 00:22:21,391
某种医学名人 或许是当地英雄？
something of a medical celebrity, a local hero perhaps?

485
00:22:21,441 --> 00:22:22,412
- 是的 哦是的
- Yes, oh yes.

486
00:22:22,462 --> 00:22:23,331
- 太棒了 我是说
- That is fantastic, I mean,

487
00:22:23,381 --> 00:22:24,812
这是英雄事迹 不是吗？
this is heroic stuff, isn't it?

488
00:22:24,862 --> 00:22:26,091
这是驰骋疆场
This is riding the range.

489
00:22:26,141 --> 00:22:26,924
- 是的 嗯——
- Yeah, well--

490
00:22:26,974 --> 00:22:29,038
- 他看起来像约翰·韦恩
- He looks like John Wayne.

491
00:22:29,088 --> 00:22:31,187
- 我们尚未脱离险境
- We're not out of the wood yet.

492
00:22:31,237 --> 00:22:33,554
仍有许多事情要做
There are still lots of things to be done.

493
00:22:33,604 --> 00:22:35,805
- 嗯 你似乎是做这些事的人
- Well, you seem to be the kind of man to do them.

494
00:22:35,855 --> 00:22:39,135
- 啊 这真是年轻人在这里的工作
- Ah, it's really a young man's job out here.

495
00:22:39,185 --> 00:22:42,779
麦克劳德医生于1974年退休
Dr. Macleod retired in 1974,

496
00:22:42,829 --> 00:22:45,633
直到今天 他仍被深情铭记
and to this day, he is still fondly remembered

497
00:22:45,683 --> 00:22:47,266
在这座岛上
here on the island.

498
00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:51,992
为抵达最终目的地
To get to my final destination,

499
00:22:52,042 --> 00:22:53,642
我离开北尤伊斯特
I'm leaving North Uist,

500
00:22:53,692 --> 00:22:57,648
前往小小的潮汐岛瓦莱
and heading for the tiny tidal island of Vallay.

501
00:23:01,197 --> 00:23:02,347
要到达那里
And to get there,

502
00:23:02,397 --> 00:23:04,725
我需要步行两公里
I need to make the two kilometer walk

503
00:23:04,775 --> 00:23:07,733
穿过这片壮丽的海滩
across this spectacular strand.

504
00:23:07,783 --> 00:23:09,541
这确实是我见过的最美的
Well it's certainly one of the most beautiful

505
00:23:09,591 --> 00:23:11,981
一段沙滩之一
stretches of sand I've ever seen,

506
00:23:12,031 --> 00:23:14,680
并有幸步行穿越
and had the privilege to walk across.

507
00:23:14,730 --> 00:23:18,142
陪同我的是当地向导詹姆斯·麦克莱奇
Joining me is local guide James MacLetchie,

508
00:23:18,192 --> 00:23:19,925
他从小就开始
who's been making this journey

509
00:23:19,975 --> 00:23:23,196
走这条路
since he was in short trousers.

510
00:23:23,246 --> 00:23:24,235
你在这里长大
You grew up here.

511
00:23:24,285 --> 00:23:25,541
- 是的 我就在这村里长大
- Yeah I grew up just in the village here,

512
00:23:25,591 --> 00:23:27,096
我妈妈是校长
I mom was a head teacher,

513
00:23:27,146 --> 00:23:29,572
每个周末我都会在这片海滩上玩耍
and every weekend I'd be down here playing on this beach,

514
00:23:29,622 --> 00:23:32,270
我们也经常去那边的岛
and we'd often go over to the island there as well,

515
00:23:32,320 --> 00:23:33,607
在退潮的时候
when the tide was out.

516
00:23:33,657 --> 00:23:35,451
玩耍的绝佳之地
Fantastic place to play.

517
00:23:35,501 --> 00:23:37,403
值得注意的是 曾有一段时间
Remarkably, at one point,

518
00:23:37,453 --> 00:23:38,887
有一些计划在酝酿中
there were plans afoot

519
00:23:38,937 --> 00:23:42,741
本会彻底改变这片美丽景观
that would have totally changed this beautiful landscape.

520
00:23:42,791 --> 00:23:44,762
- 我小时候有个计划
- There was a plan when I was growing up as a child

521
00:23:44,812 --> 00:23:46,223
要封锁这片区域
to block off this area,

522
00:23:46,273 --> 00:23:47,860
然后用土壤填满
and then they were gonna fill it in with soil

523
00:23:47,910 --> 00:23:51,295
据我记得要把它变成球茎田
and make it into a bulb field from what I remember.

524
00:23:51,345 --> 00:23:53,026
- 他们要把它变成荷兰圩田？
- They were gonna turn it into a Dutch Polder?

525
00:23:53,076 --> 00:23:55,822
差不多 是的
More or less, yeah.

526
00:23:55,872 --> 00:23:58,439
这就不会是今天的样子了
This would not have been what it is today.

527
00:23:58,489 --> 00:24:01,663
这段1969年的有趣影像
This intriguing footage from 1969,

528
00:24:01,713 --> 00:24:03,630
展示了试点计划
shows the pilot scheme.

529
00:24:06,029 --> 00:24:08,134
你认为当地人对瓦莱沙滩被改造成
And what do you think local people felt about the idea

530
00:24:08,184 --> 00:24:11,718
广阔郁金香田的想法
of the Vallay sands being turned into

531
00:24:11,768 --> 00:24:13,610
有何感受？
a vast tulip field?

532
00:24:13,660 --> 00:24:14,974
- 当时的态度可能与我们今天
- At that time it was probably very different

533
00:24:15,024 --> 00:24:17,199
非常不同
attitude to what we have today,

534
00:24:17,249 --> 00:24:18,931
考虑到工作机会等等
with work opportunities and whatnot,

535
00:24:18,981 --> 00:24:21,784
但我想今天人们会完全震惊
but I think today people would've been totally horrified.

536
00:24:21,834 --> 00:24:24,447
小时候我记得所有这些
And as a child I remember all these,

537
00:24:24,497 --> 00:24:26,193
白色和红色的棍子插满海滩
white and red sticks all over the beach,

538
00:24:26,243 --> 00:24:28,634
我和我的一个朋友过去常移动它们
and I used to move them, myself and one of my friends,

539
00:24:28,684 --> 00:24:30,072
我们会移动它们 但幸运的是我们——
we would move them around, but luckily for us--

540
00:24:30,122 --> 00:24:31,340
- 你们是破坏分子？
- You were saboteurs?

541
00:24:31,390 --> 00:24:32,217
- 是的 我们是
- Yes, we were, yes.

542
00:24:32,267 --> 00:24:33,050
- 大胆的破坏分子！
- Bold saboteurs!

543
00:24:33,100 --> 00:24:36,350
- 我们成功逃脱了被发现
- We managed to escape being found out.

544
00:24:37,886 --> 00:24:39,897
吉姆的小小抗议是否
Whether Jim's small protest

545
00:24:39,947 --> 00:24:42,364
起了任何作用 谁又能说呢？
played any part, who can say?

546
00:24:43,314 --> 00:24:45,477
但郁金香农场背后的公司
But the company behind the tulip farm

547
00:24:45,527 --> 00:24:46,360
破产了
went bust,

548
00:24:47,328 --> 00:24:50,798
使这片广阔沙滩未被破坏
leaving this vast expanse of sand unspoiled.

549
00:24:54,246 --> 00:24:55,591
穿过瓦莱岛
Crossing to Vallay,

550
00:24:55,641 --> 00:24:59,209
詹姆斯带我去他童年的另一个常去之地
James takes me to another of his childhood haunts,

551
00:24:59,259 --> 00:25:00,977
一个迷人的人物
where a fascinating character

552
00:25:01,027 --> 00:25:02,694
100年前曾居住于此
lived 100 years ago.

553
00:25:03,648 --> 00:25:04,708
我们到了
And here we are.

554
00:25:04,758 --> 00:25:05,541
是的 瓦莱
Yeah, Vallay.

555
00:25:05,591 --> 00:25:06,771
瓦莱！
Vallay!

556
00:25:06,821 --> 00:25:08,427
还有废墟
And the ruins.

557
00:25:08,477 --> 00:25:09,816
是的 当你看到它们时很惊人
Yeah they're amazing when you can see them,

558
00:25:09,866 --> 00:25:11,696
它们如此显眼 校舍
they're so dominant, the schoolhouse,

559
00:25:11,746 --> 00:25:13,210
然后在左手边
and then right up on the left-hand side

560
00:25:13,260 --> 00:25:14,813
你可以看到厄斯金·贝弗里奇的房子
you can see Erskine Beveridge's house,

561
00:25:14,863 --> 00:25:16,780
建于1902年至1905年
built in 1902, to 1905.

562
00:25:17,901 --> 00:25:21,284
厄斯金·贝弗里奇是位富有的实业家
Erskine Beveridge was a wealthy industrialist,

563
00:25:21,334 --> 00:25:24,376
热衷于考古学
with a passion for archeology.

564
00:25:24,426 --> 00:25:26,755
他爱上了这座
He fell in love with this tiny island

565
00:25:26,805 --> 00:25:29,138
大西洋边缘的小岛
on the edge of the Atlantic.

566
00:25:30,916 --> 00:25:32,120
他怎么赚的钱？
Where did he make his money?

567
00:25:32,170 --> 00:25:34,006
在亚麻制造业和遗产继承方面
In the linen manufacturers and entailments,

568
00:25:34,056 --> 00:25:35,991
并以此建立了相当大的生意
and made quite a big business out of that.

569
00:25:36,041 --> 00:25:36,947
所以当他们来到这里时
So when they came out here,

570
00:25:36,997 --> 00:25:39,160
他们真的只是来寻找运动庄园
they were really just coming to look for sporting estates,

571
00:25:39,210 --> 00:25:40,905
这在当时很常见
as was very common in their days.

572
00:25:40,955 --> 00:25:42,667
然后找到这样一块
And then to find a piece of land like this

573
00:25:42,717 --> 00:25:44,550
拥有那般景色的土地
with a view like that.

574
00:25:45,908 --> 00:25:47,818
这是瓦莱府
This is Vallay House,

575
00:25:47,868 --> 00:25:49,570
或者说它的遗迹
or what's left of it.

576
00:25:49,620 --> 00:25:52,439
这座曾经豪华住宅的荒芜外壳
The gaunt shell of the once opulent home

577
00:25:52,489 --> 00:25:56,072
是贝弗里奇在他的岛屿隐居处建造的
that Beveridge built on his island retreat.

578
00:25:57,063 --> 00:25:59,741
- 建这房子花了三年
- Took three years to build the house,

579
00:25:59,791 --> 00:26:01,484
8000英镑
8000 pounds, to build it.

580
00:26:01,534 --> 00:26:03,582
但这房子真正美丽之处在于
But what's really beautiful about the house is,

581
00:26:03,632 --> 00:26:06,185
有超过365块玻璃
there's over 365 panes of glass in it,

582
00:26:06,235 --> 00:26:07,429
还有小圆窗
and there's little round windows

583
00:26:07,479 --> 00:26:08,839
过去装有彩色玻璃
that used to have colored glass in it,

584
00:26:08,889 --> 00:26:11,680
窗上有铭文E.B.
and on the windows there was the inscription E.B.,

585
00:26:11,730 --> 00:26:12,513
厄斯金·贝弗里奇
Erskine Beveridge.

586
00:26:12,563 --> 00:26:13,346
厄斯金·贝弗里奇
Erskine Beveridge.

587
00:26:13,396 --> 00:26:14,181
是的
Yes.

588
00:26:14,231 --> 00:26:15,945
建造这样的东西也相当不可思议
Quite an incredible thing to build as well,

589
00:26:15,995 --> 00:26:18,775
想想我们所处的环境
and if you think of the environment that we're in,

590
00:26:18,825 --> 00:26:21,879
如此宏伟 男爵风格的房产
so grand, baronial-style property.

591
00:26:21,929 --> 00:26:25,300
在瓦莱 贝弗里奇找到了完美之地
Here on Vallay, Beveridge found the perfect place

592
00:26:25,350 --> 00:26:29,529
来沉溺于他对过去的迷恋
to indulge his fascination with the past.

593
00:26:29,579 --> 00:26:31,259
- 他想出去探索环境
- Wanted to go out and explore the environment,

594
00:26:31,309 --> 00:26:32,864
他会挖到地下三英尺多
he'd dig down over three foot in the ground,

595
00:26:32,914 --> 00:26:34,355
发现许多古物
and he'd find lots of antiquities,

596
00:26:34,405 --> 00:26:36,173
然后把它们带回房子
and take them up to the house.

597
00:26:36,223 --> 00:26:38,048
所以他对这里的人类居住感兴趣
So he was interested in human habitation here,

598
00:26:38,098 --> 00:26:38,881
可以追溯到很久以前吗？
does it go back a long way?

599
00:26:38,931 --> 00:26:40,542
嗯 可以追溯到约8000年前
Well, it goes back to about 8000 years,

600
00:26:40,592 --> 00:26:41,923
所以在这岛周围
so all around this island itself,

601
00:26:41,973 --> 00:26:43,825
我们可以追溯到早期爱尔兰时代
we can go back to the early Ireland age,

602
00:26:43,875 --> 00:26:45,161
还有青铜时代
we can go Bronze Age as well.

603
00:26:45,211 --> 00:26:47,024
他写了一本叫《北尤伊斯特》的书
He wrote a book called North Uist,

604
00:26:47,074 --> 00:26:48,406
覆盖了岛屿的大部分
and he covered most of the island,

605
00:26:48,456 --> 00:26:49,528
所以我们今天所知的大部分
so a lot of what we know today

606
00:26:49,578 --> 00:26:51,592
实际上是因为他
was actually because of him.

607
00:26:56,845 --> 00:26:59,936
当厄斯金·贝弗里奇于1920年去世时
When Erskine Beveridge died in 1920,

608
00:26:59,986 --> 00:27:02,368
房子传给了他的儿子乔治
the house passed to his son George,

609
00:27:02,418 --> 00:27:05,248
他继续住在瓦莱
who continued to live on Vallay.

610
00:27:05,298 --> 00:27:08,236
但自1944年他去世后
But since his death in 1944,

611
00:27:08,286 --> 00:27:10,786
房子一直空置并被忽视
it's lain empty and neglected.

612
00:27:12,921 --> 00:27:15,235
房子完全破败不堪
The house is completely falling into rack and ruin.

613
00:27:15,285 --> 00:27:17,948
你还记得它没这么破败的时候吗？
Can you remember a time when it wasn't so dilapidated?

614
00:27:17,998 --> 00:27:20,637
嗯 我记得1970年代来过这里
Well I remember coming over here, in the 1970s.

615
00:27:20,687 --> 00:27:23,836
所有窗户都完好 所有楼梯都完好
All the windows were intact, all the staircases were intact,

616
00:27:23,886 --> 00:27:26,165
所有房间 是个惊人的地方
all the rooms, it was an amazing place to come.

617
00:27:26,215 --> 00:27:27,756
你小时候常来探索？
You used to explore it as a mere boy?

618
00:27:27,806 --> 00:27:30,162
是的 我们是的 某些房间非常暗
Yeah, we did, and it was so dark in certain rooms

619
00:27:30,212 --> 00:27:32,249
你会听到小老鼠跑来跑去
and you'd hear little rats running around,

620
00:27:32,299 --> 00:27:34,454
鸽子会飞来撞到你脸上
pigeons would come and hit you in the face,

621
00:27:34,504 --> 00:27:36,835
长大过程中 对孩子们是巨大的冒险
and growing up, a huge adventure for children,

622
00:27:36,885 --> 00:27:38,476
玩耍的绝佳之地
amazing place to play.

623
00:27:38,526 --> 00:27:40,474
在它被主人遗弃之后
After it had been deserted by the owners.

624
00:27:40,524 --> 00:27:41,774
是的
Yeah.

625
00:27:43,154 --> 00:27:45,291
真的很可悲 它被空置
It's quite sad, really, it being left empty,

626
00:27:45,341 --> 00:27:47,591
然后变得荒凉
and then becoming desolate.

627
00:27:49,362 --> 00:27:51,257
- 这个孤独的前哨站
- This solitary outpost

628
00:27:51,307 --> 00:27:54,499
现在作为一个慢慢 crumbling的纪念碑
now stands as a slowly-crumbling memorial

629
00:27:54,549 --> 00:27:57,551
纪念厄斯金·贝弗里奇
to the pioneering spirit of Erskine Beveridge,

630
00:27:57,601 --> 00:27:59,268
及其他像他一样的人的开创精神
and others like him.

631
00:28:00,416 --> 00:28:03,475
但正如大自然正在 reclaiming土地
But just as nature is reclaiming the land,

632
00:28:03,525 --> 00:28:07,525
海洋也在逐渐侵蚀这些岛屿
the sea is also gradually eroding these islands.

633
00:28:08,629 --> 00:28:10,864
大西洋边疆的这片区域
This patch of the Atlantic frontier

634
00:28:10,914 --> 00:28:12,604
似乎已被突破
seems to have been breached.

635
00:28:12,654 --> 00:28:16,404
也许不是物理上 但至少被时间突破
Perhaps not physically, but at least by time.

636
00:28:17,494 --> 00:28:20,607
当我结束这次伟大之旅时
And as I bring this grand tour to a close,

637
00:28:20,657 --> 00:28:23,622
我自己与时间的赛跑开始了
my own race against time begins.

638
00:28:23,672 --> 00:28:26,665
我必须返回穿过海滩
I have to get back across the strand,

639
00:28:26,715 --> 00:28:30,632
在潮水再次切断岛屿之前
before the tide cuts the island off once again.

640
00:28:37,141 --> 00:28:38,557
在我的下一次宏伟之旅中
On my next grand tour,

641
00:28:38,607 --> 00:28:41,013
我将探索苏格兰海岸周围
I'm exploring some of the remotest islands

642
00:28:41,063 --> 00:28:43,230
一些最偏远的岛屿
around the Scottish coast.