﻿1
00:00:06,819 --> 00:00:08,550
人们总是被深深吸引
People have always been drawn

2
00:00:08,600 --> 00:00:10,870
被西部的魔力所吸引。
to the magic of the west.

3
00:00:10,920 --> 00:00:13,233
几个世纪以来，男男女女们一直追随着
For centuries, men and women have followed

4
00:00:13,283 --> 00:00:14,891
太阳的轨迹。
the course of the sun.

5
00:00:14,941 --> 00:00:17,729
寻找新的土地和更好的生活。
Looking for new lands and a better life.

6
00:00:17,779 --> 00:00:22,454
- 五千年前，我们的祖先航行在这波涛汹涌的海域
- 5,000 years ago, our ancestors sailed these choppy waters

7
00:00:22,504 --> 00:00:24,837
乘坐着用动物皮制成的船
in boats made of animal skin

8
00:00:25,763 --> 00:00:30,171
没有地图，仅凭对前方事物的本能。
with no maps and just an instinct of what lay ahead.

9
00:00:30,221 --> 00:00:32,971
所以我正追随他们的脚步，前往最大的
So I'm following them, heading to the biggest

10
00:00:33,021 --> 00:00:36,010
近海岛屿，不仅是在苏格兰
off shore islands, not just in Scotland

11
00:00:36,060 --> 00:00:38,331
而是在整个大不列颠。
but the whole of Great Britain.

12
00:00:38,381 --> 00:00:42,548
我将航向哈里斯和刘易斯的长岛。
I'm sailing to the long island of Harris and Lewis.

13
00:00:44,403 --> 00:00:46,033
在这个系列中，我将继续
In this series, I'm continuing

14
00:00:46,083 --> 00:00:48,033
我的岛屿伟大之旅。
my island grand tour.

15
00:00:48,083 --> 00:00:50,769
拜访设得兰群岛中最新颖的岛屿。
Visiting the most novel of the Shetland islands.

16
00:00:50,819 --> 00:00:53,572
探索西部群岛并发现
Exploring the western isles and discovering

17
00:00:53,622 --> 00:00:57,910
欧洲一些最偏远地区的秘密。
the secrets of some of the remotest places in Europe.

18
00:00:57,960 --> 00:01:00,074
- 像这样透过水面看到它们。
- To see them through the water like this.

19
00:01:00,124 --> 00:01:01,553
太神奇了。
It's amazing.

20
00:01:01,603 --> 00:01:04,630
苏格兰拥有众多美妙的岛屿。
Scotland boasts of wonderful array of islands.

21
00:01:04,680 --> 00:01:07,667
事实上，有近300个岛屿。
In fact, there are nearly 300 of them.

22
00:01:07,717 --> 00:01:10,564
这还不算环绕着
And that's not counting the myriad of stacks,

23
00:01:10,614 --> 00:01:12,583
6000英里曲折海岸线的无数海蚀柱、
rocks and scallies that surround

24
00:01:12,633 --> 00:01:15,300
岩石和小礁岛。
6,000 convoluted miles of coast.

25
00:01:16,210 --> 00:01:19,293
从大西洋到北海。
From Atlantic ocean to the north sea.

26
00:01:20,393 --> 00:01:23,244
这次宏伟之旅，我将前往
For this grand tour, I'm heading to the islands

27
00:01:23,294 --> 00:01:24,627
最西边的岛屿。
of the far west.

28
00:01:38,557 --> 00:01:41,147
我的路线穿越赫布里底海，
My route crosses the sea of the Hebrides,

29
00:01:41,197 --> 00:01:44,347
并将在哈里斯和刘易斯长岛的南部
and makes land fall in the south of the long island

30
00:01:44,397 --> 00:01:46,789
登陆。
of Harris and Lewis.

31
00:01:46,839 --> 00:01:49,588
从那里，我将前往群岛中最大的城镇
From there, I'll make my way to the largest town

32
00:01:49,638 --> 00:01:53,471
然后再返回海岸。
in the islands, before returning to the coast.

33
00:01:56,018 --> 00:01:58,366
这是塔伯特小镇。
This is the little township of Tarbert.

34
00:01:58,416 --> 00:02:00,665
一个荒凉而原始地区的中心。
Center of a bare and primitive country.

35
00:02:00,715 --> 00:02:03,048
然而也是一片充满歌声的土地。
Which is yet a land of song.

36
00:02:04,418 --> 00:02:07,451
我三十年前第一次来到哈里斯。
I first came to Harris 30 years ago.

37
00:02:07,501 --> 00:02:11,209
和几个美国朋友一起骑自行车旅行。
On a cycle tour with a couple of American chums.

38
00:02:11,259 --> 00:02:15,248
我们感觉仿佛到了另一个国度。
We felt as if we'd arrived in another country.

39
00:02:15,298 --> 00:02:17,850
- 离开渡轮后，我们沿着主街骑行
- Leaving the ferry, we cycled up the main street

40
00:02:17,900 --> 00:02:20,187
寻找最近的酒吧。
looking for the nearest bar.

41
00:02:20,237 --> 00:02:23,147
街道两旁，老人们正大声地用盖尔语
On either side, old men were talking loudly to each other

42
00:02:23,197 --> 00:02:24,651
交谈着。
in Gaelic.

43
00:02:24,701 --> 00:02:26,789
我的美国朋友们惊呆了。
My American friends were amazed.

44
00:02:26,839 --> 00:02:29,131
他们从未听过这样的语言。
They'd never heard such a thing.

45
00:02:29,181 --> 00:02:30,629
当我们终于找到酒吧时，
And when we did get to the pub,

46
00:02:30,679 --> 00:02:32,651
里面坐满了喝酒的人
it was a round full of drinkers

47
00:02:32,701 --> 00:02:34,368
全都在说盖尔语。
all speaking Gaelic.

48
00:02:35,261 --> 00:02:37,381
我们感觉自己像外国人。
We felt like foreigners.

49
00:02:37,431 --> 00:02:39,514
当然，我们确实是。
Which of course, we were.

50
00:02:43,079 --> 00:02:45,088
那是我第一次异域
That was the start of my first exotic

51
00:02:45,138 --> 00:02:47,173
岛屿冒险的开始。
island adventure.

52
00:02:47,223 --> 00:02:50,984
那时，我穿着一条漂亮的花呢马裤。
Back then, I sported a pair of handsome tweed breeches.

53
00:02:51,034 --> 00:02:53,870
可惜它们最终已经完成了使命
Which sadly have finally run their course

54
00:02:53,920 --> 00:02:57,707
现在在所有不该破的地方都破了洞。
and are now full of holes in all the wrong places.

55
00:02:57,757 --> 00:03:00,570
但现在，我希望这次重游
But now, I'm hoping that this return trip

56
00:03:00,620 --> 00:03:05,467
能给我机会更新我的乡村行头。
will give me the opportunity to refresh my rustic attire.

57
00:03:05,517 --> 00:03:09,429
- 哈里斯当然与哈里斯花呢齐名。
- Harris is of course synonymous with Harris Tweed.

58
00:03:09,479 --> 00:03:12,570
那是适合所有季节的无与伦比的面料。
That incomparable fabric for all seasons.

59
00:03:12,620 --> 00:03:14,752
由羊毛制成，手工编织。
Made of wool and hand woven.

60
00:03:14,802 --> 00:03:18,969
鉴赏家认为它是世界上最好的。
It's considered by connoisseurs to be the best in the world.

61
00:03:22,221 --> 00:03:24,672
没有人比小农场主更独立。
No man is more independent than the crofter.

62
00:03:24,722 --> 00:03:26,811
哈里斯花呢产业的实力
And the strength of the Harris tweed industry

63
00:03:26,861 --> 00:03:29,509
在于小农场主的独立性，他们珍视
lies in the independence of crofters who have cherished

64
00:03:29,559 --> 00:03:31,189
古老的技能。
ancient skills.

65
00:03:31,239 --> 00:03:33,668
精通古老技艺的双手、
Two hands skilled in the old craft,

66
00:03:33,718 --> 00:03:37,131
一个纺车和一个哈里斯小农场。
a spinning wheel and a Harris croft.

67
00:03:37,181 --> 00:03:40,229
孩子们采集用来制作绿色染料的野生鸢尾花。
Wild irises gathered by the children for the green dye.

68
00:03:40,279 --> 00:03:44,446
这些造就了哈里斯花呢之名。
These are the things that make the name Harris Tweed.

69
00:03:48,839 --> 00:03:50,731
为了了解古老的编织传统
To see how the ancient weaving tradition

70
00:03:50,781 --> 00:03:53,251
在21世纪的发展情况，
is fairing in the 21st century,

71
00:03:53,301 --> 00:03:56,789
我来到了哈里斯南端。
I've come to the south end of Harris.

72
00:03:56,839 --> 00:03:59,691
丽贝卡·赫顿就在这里生活和工作。
This is where Rebecca Hutton lives and works.

73
00:03:59,741 --> 00:04:02,430
每天在她的织布机前工作六小时。
Spending six hours a day at her loom.

74
00:04:02,480 --> 00:04:06,809
她的工作间设在她家小农场后面的一个小棚屋里。
She's housed in a shed at the back of her croft.

75
00:04:06,859 --> 00:04:09,349
- 在这里长大，哈里斯花ne是哈里斯文化
- Growing up here where Harris tweed is a huge part

76
00:04:09,399 --> 00:04:12,053
巨大的一部分。
of the culture of Harris anyway.

77
00:04:12,103 --> 00:04:14,149
无论它是否只是人们联想到的一个名字
Whether it was just a name that people associate

78
00:04:14,199 --> 00:04:16,432
显然是与这个岛屿相关的名字。
obviously with the island.

79
00:04:16,482 --> 00:04:17,952
或者对我来说，在我年轻的时候，
Or like for me, when I was young,

80
00:04:18,002 --> 00:04:19,531
是织布机的噪音。
it was the noise of the loom.

81
00:04:19,581 --> 00:04:21,573
我认识一些织布工，是看着他们长大的。
I knew weavers growing up.

82
00:04:21,623 --> 00:04:23,047
我见过我祖母织布，
I've seen my grandmother use the weave,

83
00:04:23,097 --> 00:04:24,330
我的兄弟姐妹们也曾经织布。
my siblings used to weave.

84
00:04:24,380 --> 00:04:27,029
我的曾祖母是哈里斯花呢的一个传奇。
My great grandmother's a legend for Harris tweed.

85
00:04:27,079 --> 00:04:29,029
所以我从小到大一直都知道哈里斯花呢。
So I've always grown up knowing about Harris tweed.

86
00:04:29,079 --> 00:04:31,629
他们确实说哈里斯花呢是独一无二的。
And they do say that Harris tweed is unique.

87
00:04:31,679 --> 00:04:33,231
它绝对是最好的，不是吗？
It's absolutely the best, isn't it?

88
00:04:33,281 --> 00:04:34,293
哦，当然。
Oh, absolutely.

89
00:04:34,343 --> 00:04:36,411
- 你从哪里获得灵感？
- Where do you get your inspiration from?

90
00:04:36,461 --> 00:04:38,171
- 无处不在。
- All over the place.

91
00:04:38,221 --> 00:04:40,251
你见过这周围的景色。
You've seen the scenery around here.

92
00:04:40,301 --> 00:04:42,491
所以有时是你看到的排列的颜色。
So sometimes it's colors that you see arranged.

93
00:04:42,541 --> 00:04:44,131
你可能会看到，你喜欢看到。
You might see, you like to see.

94
00:04:44,181 --> 00:04:45,392
或者如果你去海滩，
Or if you go down to the beach,

95
00:04:45,442 --> 00:04:47,669
你会看到黄色、蓝色、绿色等等。
you see the yellows and the blues and the greens and that.

96
00:04:47,719 --> 00:04:48,831
但这取决于情况。
But it just depends.

97
00:04:48,881 --> 00:04:51,131
你看，你可以从任何地方获得想法。
You see, you get ideas from all over the place.

98
00:04:51,181 --> 00:04:53,589
有时你甚至不知道想法是从哪里来的。
Sometimes you don't even realize whee you go the idea from.

99
00:04:53,639 --> 00:04:58,032
有了一个关于花呢的想法，无论是部分还是设计，无论是什么。
To have an idea of a tweed, in a part or design, wherever.

100
00:04:58,082 --> 00:05:00,469
然后真正把它实现出来，你知道。
And actually to bring it to life, you know.

101
00:05:00,519 --> 00:05:03,653
它是我的，是我的创作，我做的。
And it's mine, it's my creation, I made it.

102
00:05:03,703 --> 00:05:06,011
你知道，然后看着它继续发展下去。
You know, and then to see it going on from there.

103
00:05:06,061 --> 00:05:07,611
并被制成，
And being turned into,

104
00:05:07,661 --> 00:05:08,811
无论是一件衣物。
whether it's an item of clothing.

105
00:05:08,861 --> 00:05:11,748
或者你知道，家具装饰，或一个包，无论什么，
Or you know, furnishing, or a bag or whatever,

106
00:05:11,798 --> 00:05:12,751
这太神奇了。
it's amazing.

107
00:05:12,801 --> 00:05:14,170
我做过的最好的事
Best thing I ever did

108
00:05:14,220 --> 00:05:15,792
就是开始编织。
was take up weaving.

109
00:05:15,842 --> 00:05:17,589
- 嗯，你能演示一下你是如何
- Well, can you demonstrate what you do

110
00:05:17,639 --> 00:05:20,139
编织出这美妙布料的吗？
to weave this wonderful cloth?

111
00:05:24,461 --> 00:05:26,228
哈里斯花呢的质量是由
The quality of Harris tweed is

112
00:05:26,278 --> 00:05:28,971
议会法案规定的。
enshrined in an act of parliament.

113
00:05:29,021 --> 00:05:31,312
要成为真正的哈里斯花呢，
To qualify as the genuine article,

114
00:05:31,362 --> 00:05:36,293
制作的每一步都必须在哈里斯岛上进行。
every step of the process has to take place on Harris.

115
00:05:36,343 --> 00:05:40,549
从加工羊毛到手织布料。
From processing wool to hand weaving the cloth.

116
00:05:40,599 --> 00:05:43,349
- 你有没有尝试过跟着织布机的节奏
- You ever attempted to sing in rhythm with the music?

117
00:05:43,399 --> 00:05:44,389
唱歌？
Of the loom?

118
00:05:44,439 --> 00:05:46,030
- 没有。
- No.

119
00:05:46,080 --> 00:05:48,112
我确实尝试过听音乐
I did try listening to music

120
00:05:48,162 --> 00:05:49,509
在我刚开始编织的时候，
while I was weaving at the start,

121
00:05:49,559 --> 00:05:52,249
但我后来试着按音乐节奏编织。
but I then try to weave in time to the music.

122
00:05:52,299 --> 00:05:53,251
行不通。
Doesn't work.

123
00:05:53,301 --> 00:05:55,051
- 不行。
- Not working.

124
00:05:55,101 --> 00:05:58,242
丽贝卡让这个过程看起来毫不费力。
Rebecca makes the process seem effortless.

125
00:05:58,242 --> 00:06:01,592
你会误以为任何人都能做到这一点。
And you'd be forgiven for thinking that anyone could do it.

126
00:06:01,642 --> 00:06:04,347
- 现在，丽贝卡，我非常想试一试。
- Now, Rebecca, I'm desperate to have a go at this.

127
00:06:04,397 --> 00:06:05,349
你介意吗？
Do you mind?

128
00:06:05,399 --> 00:06:06,347
- 一点也不。
- Not all.

129
00:06:06,397 --> 00:06:07,851
先生，您可以过来坐下。
You may, sir, come and sit.

130
00:06:07,901 --> 00:06:08,848
- 好的。
- Okay.

131
00:06:08,898 --> 00:06:09,851
- 坐那里。
- Sit there.

132
00:06:09,901 --> 00:06:12,069
- 我是个很棒的自行车手，所以踏板对我来说并不神秘。
- I'm a great cyclist, so pedals are no mystery to me.

133
00:06:12,119 --> 00:06:12,952
- 对。
- Right.

134
00:06:14,353 --> 00:06:16,802
就这样，再回来。
That's it, back again.

135
00:06:16,852 --> 00:06:17,685
就这样。
That's it.

136
00:06:19,226 --> 00:06:20,179
哦，哦。
Oh, oh.

137
00:06:20,229 --> 00:06:21,480
- 哦，天哪。
- Oh dear.

138
00:06:21,530 --> 00:06:22,477
- 就这样了。
- So there we go.

139
00:06:22,527 --> 00:06:23,478
一次小碰撞。
A wee crash.

140
00:06:23,528 --> 00:06:24,477
- 对此很抱歉。
- Sorry about that.

141
00:06:24,527 --> 00:06:25,480
- 希望你骑自行车时不会这样。
- Hope you don't do that when you're cycling.

142
00:06:25,530 --> 00:06:26,477
- 不会。
- No.

143
00:06:26,527 --> 00:06:28,444
嗯，实际上，我有过。
Well, I have, actually.

144
00:06:33,727 --> 00:06:37,139
看着那个梭子会让你头晕。
Makes you dizzy watching that shuttle.

145
00:06:37,189 --> 00:06:39,853
我有节奏了，我有节奏了。
I've got the rhythm, I've got the rhythm.

146
00:06:39,903 --> 00:06:42,872
- 现在可以了，正在编织哈里斯花呢。
- There you go now, weaving Harris Tweed.

147
00:06:42,922 --> 00:06:45,293
想到我初步的尝试
It's gratifying to think that my tentative

148
00:06:45,343 --> 00:06:46,973
努力也为
efforts have contributed

149
00:06:47,023 --> 00:06:50,106
一卷正宗的哈里斯花呢做出了贡献，就令人欣慰。
to an authentic roll of Harris tweed.

150
00:06:52,682 --> 00:06:55,576
离开丽贝卡，织布机的咔嗒声
Leaving Rebecca with a raffle at the gold loom

151
00:06:55,626 --> 00:06:57,475
仍在我耳边回响，
still ringing in my ears,

152
00:06:57,525 --> 00:07:00,056
我沿着海岸出发前往罗德尔。
I set off along the coast to Rodel.

153
00:07:00,106 --> 00:07:02,890
那里美丽的16世纪圣克莱门特教堂
Where the beautiful 16th century church of St. Clements

154
00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:05,023
矗立在山上守卫着。
stands guard on the hill.

155
00:07:06,838 --> 00:07:08,552
- 圣克莱门特教堂被誉为
- The church of St. Clements has been described

156
00:07:08,602 --> 00:07:12,093
整个西部群岛中最精美的建筑。
as the finest building in the whole of the western isles.

157
00:07:12,143 --> 00:07:14,310
我倾向于同意。
And I'm inclined to agree.

158
00:07:15,466 --> 00:07:18,093
它的建造者是阿拉斯代尔·克罗塔赫。
Its founder was Alasdair Crotach.

159
00:07:18,143 --> 00:07:21,416
他是所有强大的麦克劳德酋长中
The most ferocious and blood thirsty of all the mighty

160
00:07:21,466 --> 00:07:22,716
最凶猛、最嗜血的一位。
MacLeod chiefs.

161
00:07:23,706 --> 00:07:26,456
他似乎在后来的生活中
He seems to have experienced something of a change of heart

162
00:07:26,506 --> 00:07:28,312
经历了某种转变。
in later life.

163
00:07:28,362 --> 00:07:32,136
在1490年代，他开始为自己的灵魂担忧。
In the 1490s he began worrying about his soul.

164
00:07:32,186 --> 00:07:35,059
并大力投资于来世。
And investing heavily in the after life.

165
00:07:35,109 --> 00:07:37,475
他出资建造了圣克莱门特教堂
Paying for the building work of St. Clements

166
00:07:37,525 --> 00:07:39,692
并祈求救赎。
and praying for salvation.

167
00:07:41,445 --> 00:07:43,896
- 现在绝对引人入胜的是所选择的
- Now what's absolutely fascinating is the image

168
00:07:43,946 --> 00:07:46,872
用来描绘他权力和地位的图像。
that's been chosen to depict his power and status.

169
00:07:46,922 --> 00:07:48,355
就是这个。
And it's this.

170
00:07:48,405 --> 00:07:52,072
一艘高地帆船，有时也被称为比尔林船。
A highland galley or birlinn as it's sometimes called.

171
00:07:52,122 --> 00:07:54,675
它看起来有点像维京船。
It looks a wee bit like a viking ship.

172
00:07:54,725 --> 00:07:56,675
那是因为它确实是。
And that's because it is.

173
00:07:56,725 --> 00:07:58,994
和所有麦克劳德酋长一样，
And like all MacLeod chiefs,

174
00:07:59,044 --> 00:08:00,915
阿拉斯代尔·克罗塔赫是
Alasdair Crotach was descended from

175
00:08:00,965 --> 00:08:04,157
挪威维京人漫长血脉的后裔。
a long line of Norwegian vikings.

176
00:08:04,207 --> 00:08:07,373
这里描绘的高地帆船是其祖先船只
And the highland galley depicted here is a development

177
00:08:07,423 --> 00:08:09,923
的一种发展。
of the ships of his ancestors.

178
00:08:12,868 --> 00:08:15,315
阿拉斯代尔·克罗塔赫可能曾希望
Alasdair Crotach might have hoped

179
00:08:15,365 --> 00:08:17,153
他坟墓上雕刻的船
that the carved ship on his tomb

180
00:08:17,203 --> 00:08:19,373
能将他的灵魂载往天堂。
would carry his soul to heaven.

181
00:08:19,423 --> 00:08:22,376
但我们永远不知道它是否足够适航
But we'll never know if it was sufficiently sea worthy

182
00:08:22,426 --> 00:08:26,343
以承受来世的惊涛骇浪。
to withstand the stormy seas of the after life.

183
00:08:31,562 --> 00:08:32,696
沿着海岸再往前，
Further along the coast,

184
00:08:32,746 --> 00:08:36,835
是航海史另一篇章的其他遗迹。
other remains of another chapter of maritime history.

185
00:08:36,885 --> 00:08:40,616
这座荒凉的废墟曾是赫布里底群岛
This gaunt ruin was once the center of the Hebridean

186
00:08:40,666 --> 00:08:42,083
捕鲸业的中心。
whaling industry.

187
00:08:43,401 --> 00:08:46,472
- 为了复兴古老的赫布里底与维京的联系，
- Reviving the age old Hebridean viking connection,

188
00:08:46,522 --> 00:08:48,456
一家挪威渔业公司于1904年
a Norwegian fishing company founded

189
00:08:48,506 --> 00:08:51,089
在这里建立了一个捕鲸站。
a whaling station here in 1904.

190
00:08:55,365 --> 00:08:57,576
一支由挪威人和哈里斯人
A fleet of ships crewed by Norwegians

191
00:08:57,626 --> 00:09:01,176
组成的船队驶入北大西洋，
and Harris men sailed into the north Atlantic

192
00:09:01,226 --> 00:09:04,177
寻找深海中的巨兽。
seeking out the leviathans of the deep.

193
00:09:04,227 --> 00:09:06,776
包括蓝鲸，这个地球上
Including the blue whale, the biggest animal

194
00:09:06,826 --> 00:09:10,156
有史以来最大的动物。
to have ever lived on planet earth.

195
00:09:10,206 --> 00:09:12,136
当捕鲸船队返回这里时，
When the whaling fleet returned here,

196
00:09:12,186 --> 00:09:14,817
这些动物被以某种方式肢解。
the animals were flemmsed on a certain way.

197
00:09:14,867 --> 00:09:16,915
它们的鲸脂被提炼成油。
Their blubber refined for oil.

198
00:09:16,965 --> 00:09:21,512
肉则被熏制并磨碎以供出口。
And the meat smoked and ground down for export.

199
00:09:21,562 --> 00:09:23,672
- 许多鲸肉甚至从未进入
- Much of the whale meat never even made it

200
00:09:23,722 --> 00:09:25,933
人类的食物链。
into the human food chain.

201
00:09:25,983 --> 00:09:28,195
相反，它被进一步加工，
Instead it was further processed

202
00:09:28,245 --> 00:09:31,576
这在我们今天听来几乎难以置信。
and this sounds almost incredible to our ears to day.

203
00:09:31,626 --> 00:09:35,043
它被喂给奶牛或用作肥料。
It was fed to cows or used as fertilizer.

204
00:09:36,346 --> 00:09:40,513
对于如此宏伟的生物来说，这真是一个悲剧性的结局。
A truly tragic end for such a magnificent creature.

205
00:09:43,578 --> 00:09:44,995
为了清除脑海中
To clear my head of thoughts

206
00:09:45,045 --> 00:09:48,013
关于鲸鱼被屠杀的想法，我搭了一个男人的便车，
of slaughtered whales, I hitched a lift with a man

207
00:09:48,063 --> 00:09:51,053
他对音乐和摄影的热情
whose passion for music and photography

208
00:09:51,103 --> 00:09:53,520
在哈里斯岛结合在了一起。
have come together on Harris.

209
00:10:00,842 --> 00:10:03,555
收音机里的朋克音乐暗示了
The punk music on the radio is a clue to the man

210
00:10:03,605 --> 00:10:05,256
方向盘后面的人。
behind the wheel.

211
00:10:05,306 --> 00:10:10,253
来自1970年代朋克摇滚乐队“嗡嗡鸡”的约翰·马厄。
John Maher from a 1970s punk rock band, the Buzzcocks.

212
00:10:10,303 --> 00:10:15,057
- 我16岁离开学校，那基本上是我的第一份工作。
- I left school at 16 and that's basically was my first job.

213
00:10:15,107 --> 00:10:19,015
也在很多方面可能是我受教育
And also probably a large part of my education of,

214
00:10:19,065 --> 00:10:20,410
很大的一部分。
in many ways.

215
00:10:20,460 --> 00:10:21,576
我曾是鼓手。
I was a drummer.

216
00:10:21,626 --> 00:10:25,272
我加入乐队时
I've been playing drums for five weeks

217
00:10:25,322 --> 00:10:27,254
只打了五个星期的鼓。
when I joined the band.

218
00:10:27,304 --> 00:10:28,552
- 所以你加入时并不完全是一个专业鼓手
- So you weren't exactly an expert drummer

219
00:10:28,602 --> 00:10:29,555
那时。
when you joined then.

220
00:10:29,605 --> 00:10:30,552
- 不是。
- No.

221
00:10:30,602 --> 00:10:31,555
不，但是，
No, but that,

222
00:10:31,605 --> 00:10:34,062
那就是朋克摇滚的精神。
that was the punk rock ethic.

223
00:10:34,112 --> 00:10:36,252
乐队解散后，
After the band split,

224
00:10:36,302 --> 00:10:38,013
我想，好吧，我就继续，
I thought, well I'll just carry on,

225
00:10:38,063 --> 00:10:41,592
也许找份为别人打鼓的工作。
maybe get a job drumming with somebody else.

226
00:10:41,642 --> 00:10:44,216
然后变得很明显，真的，
And it became apparent that really,

227
00:10:44,266 --> 00:10:45,736
如果你想追求那个
if you wanted to pursed to that

228
00:10:45,786 --> 00:10:48,513
作为全职职业，几乎肯定需要
as a full time career, it would almost definitely involve

229
00:10:48,563 --> 00:10:50,376
搬到伦敦去。
having to move down to London.

230
00:10:50,426 --> 00:10:53,212
而那不是我准备做的事。
And that wasn't something that I was prepared to do.

231
00:10:53,262 --> 00:10:54,515
约翰没有去伦敦，
Instead of London,

232
00:10:54,565 --> 00:10:57,667
而是在13年前搬到了哈里斯岛。
John moved to Harris 13 years ago.

233
00:10:57,717 --> 00:11:00,413
在这里，他找到了新的创作途径。
Here he's found a new creative outlet.

234
00:11:00,463 --> 00:11:03,256
他拍摄了一些非凡的照片，
Taking some extraordinary photographs

235
00:11:03,306 --> 00:11:06,493
捕捉了这座岛屿的不同面貌。
that capture a different face of the island.

236
00:11:06,543 --> 00:11:09,043
- 我花了大约七年时间
- It took me about seven years

237
00:11:09,882 --> 00:11:12,792
才达到能想出
to get to the stage where I'd figured out

238
00:11:12,842 --> 00:11:14,454
一种拍摄此地的方式
a way of photographing the place

239
00:11:14,504 --> 00:11:16,493
并真正让我感兴趣的程度。
in a way that actually interested me.

240
00:11:16,543 --> 00:11:20,711
而不仅仅是拍一张风景照。
Rather than just taking a picture of a landscape.

241
00:11:20,761 --> 00:11:22,296
画面中有一个主题。
There's a subject in the picture.

242
00:11:22,346 --> 00:11:24,551
而且它总是与
And it's always will be something that's related to

243
00:11:24,601 --> 00:11:26,973
人们做过的事情有关。
something that people have done.

244
00:11:27,023 --> 00:11:29,031
比如，可能是一栋房子。
Like, it might be a house.

245
00:11:29,081 --> 00:11:30,776
或者可能是一辆旧拖拉机。
Or it might be the old tractor.

246
00:11:30,826 --> 00:11:35,453
一些表明人们曾经或现在居住在这里的东西。
Something that shows that people live or did live here.

247
00:11:35,503 --> 00:11:36,456
并在这里做过事。
And did things here.

248
00:11:36,506 --> 00:11:37,453
在这片景色中。
In this landscape.

249
00:11:37,503 --> 00:11:38,456
就是这样。
That's the bit.

250
00:11:38,506 --> 00:11:39,453
就像我们经过的这些建筑。
Like these buildings we're passing.

251
00:11:39,503 --> 00:11:40,456
- 是的，完全正确。
- Yeah, exactly.

252
00:11:40,506 --> 00:11:41,451
它们有故事要讲述。
They've got a story to tell.

253
00:11:41,501 --> 00:11:42,501
- 是的，没错。
- Yes, yeah.

254
00:11:46,190 --> 00:11:49,137
在哈里斯岛上有许多
There are many ruined and deserted homes

255
00:11:49,187 --> 00:11:50,020
废弃和荒芜的房屋。
on Harris.

256
00:11:51,007 --> 00:11:54,675
这些是约翰特别灵感的来源。
These are a special source of inspiration for John.

257
00:11:54,725 --> 00:11:56,713
使用长时间曝光，
Using long exposure times,

258
00:11:56,763 --> 00:11:59,234
并经常在夜间拍摄，
and frequently shooting at night,

259
00:11:59,284 --> 00:12:02,739
约翰创作了一套独特的、令人难忘的图像，
John has created a unique set of haunting images

260
00:12:02,789 --> 00:12:06,456
揭示了时间无情的流逝。
that reveal the remorseless passage of time.

261
00:12:12,826 --> 00:12:13,795
- 嗯，我对好焦了。
- Well, I'm in focus.

262
00:12:13,845 --> 00:12:15,095
你呢？
What about you?

263
00:12:16,069 --> 00:12:19,635
- 用这个设置需要的时间长一点。
- Takes a little longer with this set up.

264
00:12:19,685 --> 00:12:21,555
我想这几乎是第一个，
I think this was pretty much the first,

265
00:12:21,605 --> 00:12:24,275
我真正敢进去的房子之一。
one of the first houses that I actually ventured inside.

266
00:12:24,325 --> 00:12:25,437
我不知道为什么。
I don't know why.

267
00:12:25,487 --> 00:12:28,456
但我只是觉得，我很好奇。
But I just thought, I was curious.

268
00:12:28,506 --> 00:12:32,498
仅仅从，从摄影的角度来看，
And just from a, a photographic point of view,

269
00:12:32,548 --> 00:12:35,256
它就是一个，如此棒的影像。
it's just a, such a great image.

270
00:12:35,306 --> 00:12:38,094
这不是你能人为创造出来的东西。
So it's not something you can artificially create.

271
00:12:38,144 --> 00:12:40,499
只是需要时间才能让东西变成这样。
It just takes time to make things look like this.

272
00:12:40,549 --> 00:12:41,699
而且它也很美。
And it's beautiful as well.

273
00:12:41,749 --> 00:12:42,899
是的，我也这么认为。
Yeah, I think so.

274
00:12:42,949 --> 00:12:44,339
- 但在这里也有某种
- But there's something really poignant

275
00:12:44,389 --> 00:12:45,437
真正令人心酸的东西。
about being here as well.

276
00:12:45,487 --> 00:12:46,819
因为这是某个人的家。
Because this was somebody's home.

277
00:12:46,869 --> 00:12:48,179
你几乎能感觉到那种生活。
You can almost sense the life.

278
00:12:48,229 --> 00:12:49,896
到处散落着这些物品，
There's all these effects lying around,

279
00:12:49,946 --> 00:12:51,277
那边炉架上有个水壶。
a kettle on the hob there.

280
00:12:51,327 --> 00:12:54,659
有一把用来清扫煤灰的小刷子。
There's a little brush for clearing off all coal dust.

281
00:12:54,709 --> 00:12:56,419
甚至那边还有一个钱包。
Even a purse over there.

282
00:12:56,469 --> 00:12:59,096
所以你会在某种程度上想起某个人的生活。
So you're kind of reminded of someone's life.

283
00:12:59,146 --> 00:13:00,513
然而它已经消失了。
And yet it's gone.

284
00:13:00,563 --> 00:13:03,896
但不知何故，它似乎仍然触手可及。
But somehow it's still almost touchable.

285
00:13:11,466 --> 00:13:14,035
- 所以经常在我进去过的
- So often in some of the houses like this

286
00:13:14,085 --> 00:13:15,155
一些像这样的房子里，
that I've been into,

287
00:13:15,205 --> 00:13:18,696
就好像没有人拿走任何东西。
it's like nothing has been taken by anybody.

288
00:13:18,746 --> 00:13:20,019
它就被遗弃在那里。
It has just been left.

289
00:13:20,069 --> 00:13:23,016
我不认为这像是
And I don't think it's like

290
00:13:23,066 --> 00:13:26,499
某种为那些人设立的怪异纪念碑。
some kind of bizarre memorial to those people.

291
00:13:26,549 --> 00:13:28,033
你必须保持原样。
You must leave it as it is.

292
00:13:28,083 --> 00:13:29,116
我想，我不知道，
I think it, I don't know,

293
00:13:29,166 --> 00:13:32,083
这似乎是一种普遍现象。
it just seems to be a common thing.

294
00:13:35,807 --> 00:13:37,859
在英国没有多少地方会允许
Not a lot of places in the UK where

295
00:13:37,909 --> 00:13:41,409
一栋房子就这样逐渐地
a house would be allowed to just gradually

296
00:13:42,709 --> 00:13:45,496
我不知道，我想它真的正在回归自然。
I don't know, I guess it's returning back to nature really.

297
00:13:45,546 --> 00:13:46,496
差不多是这样。
Pretty much.

298
00:13:46,546 --> 00:13:47,494
无情的时间。
Remorseless time.

299
00:13:47,544 --> 00:13:49,013
是的，是的，是的。
It is, yeah, yeah.

300
00:13:49,063 --> 00:13:50,339
我们都感觉到了，约翰。
We all feel it, John.

301
00:13:50,389 --> 00:13:51,556
是的。
Yeah.

302
00:13:53,909 --> 00:13:54,957
在我们被时间的战车
Before we're overtaken

303
00:13:55,007 --> 00:13:57,581
追上之前，
by time's winged chariot,

304
00:13:57,631 --> 00:14:01,381
我告别约翰和哈里斯，前往北部的刘易斯岛。
I leave John and Harris and head north Lewis.

305
00:14:02,887 --> 00:14:05,821
尽管这两个岛屿共享同一片陆地，
Although the two islands share the same land mass,

306
00:14:05,871 --> 00:14:08,214
但它们被一条山脉分隔开。
they are separated by a mountain range.

307
00:14:08,264 --> 00:14:10,514
和一些非常荒野的地区。
And some very wild country.

308
00:14:18,229 --> 00:14:21,218
刘易斯岛显然是两者中较大的一个。
Lewis is by far the bigger of the two.

309
00:14:21,268 --> 00:14:25,224
这是一个拥有广阔天空和开阔空间的地方。
It's a place of big skies and wide open spaces.

310
00:14:25,274 --> 00:14:28,083
散布的小农社区和一些令人惊叹的
Scattered crofting communities and some amazing

311
00:14:28,133 --> 00:14:31,262
古代遗迹，证明了该岛
ancient monuments that testify to the island's

312
00:14:31,312 --> 00:14:33,979
7000年的人类居住史。
7,000 years of human occupation.

313
00:14:37,966 --> 00:14:39,746
这是斯托诺韦。
This is Stornoway.

314
00:14:39,796 --> 00:14:42,744
赫布里底群岛中最大的城镇。
The biggest town anywhere in the Hebrides.

315
00:14:42,794 --> 00:14:46,294
它曾被认为是西部最好的
It was once considered to be the best place in the west

316
00:14:46,344 --> 00:14:47,677
鲱鱼产地。
for its herring.

317
00:14:49,215 --> 00:14:51,544
这座渔家女的雕像纪念了
This statue of a fisher lass commemorates

318
00:14:51,594 --> 00:14:54,685
那些跟随捕鱼船队的年轻女性，
the young women who followed the fishing fleets

319
00:14:54,735 --> 00:14:56,707
沿着鲱鱼迁徙的海岸，
in the migrating shores of herring

320
00:14:56,757 --> 00:15:00,227
从东英吉利到设得兰群岛沿岸奔波。
around the coast from east Anglia to Shetland.

321
00:15:00,277 --> 00:15:04,444
清理鱼内脏并将它们装入盐桶中。
Gutting the fish and packing them in barrels of salt.

322
00:15:08,592 --> 00:15:10,877
如果说鲱鱼曾让这个城镇闻名，
If herring once made this town famous,

323
00:15:10,927 --> 00:15:12,947
那么今天则是斯托诺韦黑布丁
today it's Stornoway black pudding

324
00:15:12,997 --> 00:15:15,330
是西部最好的。
that's the best in the west.

325
00:15:16,768 --> 00:15:18,022
就在港口外面，
Just out from the harbor,

326
00:15:18,072 --> 00:15:22,513
是这道世界闻名且非凡的菜肴的产地。
is the home of this world's beating and remarkable dish.

327
00:15:22,563 --> 00:15:25,864
查尔斯·麦克劳德店是一家家族企业。
Charles MacLeod's is a family business.

328
00:15:25,914 --> 00:15:29,336
这家店在当地被称为“查理巴利”。
The shop is known locally as Charlie Barlies.

329
00:15:29,386 --> 00:15:32,883
而莉亚·麦克唐纳是创始人查理·麦克劳德的
And Ria MacDonald is the granddaughter of the founder,

330
00:15:32,933 --> 00:15:34,365
孙女。
Charlie MacLeod.

331
00:15:34,415 --> 00:15:35,363
- 你好，莉亚。
- Hi, Ria.

332
00:15:35,413 --> 00:15:36,365
- 你好，保罗。
- Hi, Paul.

333
00:15:36,415 --> 00:15:39,324
- 多么壮观的黑布丁陈列啊。
- What a magnificent display of black puddings.

334
00:15:39,374 --> 00:15:41,144
我还从未真正见过
And I've never actually seen

335
00:15:41,194 --> 00:15:45,245
这种完整形态的黑布丁，就像人们说的那样。
a black pudding in this kind of full extent as they say.

336
00:15:45,295 --> 00:15:47,027
这是一个相当令人印象深刻的，
It's quite an impressive,

337
00:15:47,077 --> 00:15:48,323
相当令人印象深刻的东西。
quite an impressive object.

338
00:15:48,373 --> 00:15:49,825
它看起来更像香肠而不是布丁。
It looks more like a sausage than a pudding.

339
00:15:49,875 --> 00:15:50,984
- 是的，没错。
- Yes, yeah.

340
00:15:51,034 --> 00:15:52,685
它和香肠有些关联。
There is some associations with sausage.

341
00:15:52,735 --> 00:15:54,581
它的填充和呈现方式
The way it's filled and presented

342
00:15:54,631 --> 00:15:57,048
与制作香肠类似。
is similar to sausage making.

343
00:15:58,171 --> 00:16:01,885
我们自己的配方大约有60到70年的历史了。
Our own recipe is around about 60 to 70 years old.

344
00:16:01,935 --> 00:16:03,881
它关乎于利用动物的每一个部分。
And it was all about using every piece of the animal.

345
00:16:03,931 --> 00:16:06,381
所以你用血，也用脂肪。
So you use the blood and you use the fat.

346
00:16:06,431 --> 00:16:08,545
并混合一些苏格兰的原料，
And mixed it with some Scottish ingredients

347
00:16:08,595 --> 00:16:10,685
如燕麦片和一点点调味料
like oatmeal and just a little bit of seasoning

348
00:16:10,735 --> 00:16:11,918
来提味。
for flavor.

349
00:16:11,968 --> 00:16:13,544
- 所以在某种意义上，它是穷人的食物。
- So in a sense, it was a poor man's food.

350
00:16:13,594 --> 00:16:14,992
- 是的，它是，没错。
- Yes, it is, yeah.

351
00:16:15,042 --> 00:16:17,943
但现在它在世界各地都备受推崇。
But now it's celebrated around the world.

352
00:16:17,993 --> 00:16:21,493
- 是的，它现在真的成了一道美味佳肴，是的。
- Yeah, it's a delicacy now, really, yeah.

353
00:16:23,631 --> 00:16:26,083
黑布丁可以说是
Black pudding is about as Hebridean

354
00:16:26,133 --> 00:16:27,480
最具赫布里底特色的食物了。
as you can get.

355
00:16:27,530 --> 00:16:29,154
但莉亚·麦克唐纳的家族
But Ria MacDonald's family

356
00:16:29,204 --> 00:16:32,936
却有一段不寻常的拉丁美洲渊源。
have an unusual Latin American connection.

357
00:16:32,986 --> 00:16:34,904
我的曾祖父默多·麦克劳德
My great grandmother Murdo MacLeod

358
00:16:34,954 --> 00:16:38,301
在巴塔哥尼亚生活和工作了多年。
lived and worked in Patagonia for a number of years.

359
00:16:38,351 --> 00:16:40,984
他在那边经营牧羊场，是个牧羊人。
He was a sheep farming over there, a shepherd.

360
00:16:41,034 --> 00:16:42,138
那边有很多刘易斯岛的男人吗？
Were there many Lewis men over there?

361
00:16:42,188 --> 00:16:43,843
- 是的，有相当多来自刘易斯岛的人
- Yeah, quite a number of people from Lewis

362
00:16:43,893 --> 00:16:46,040
带着他们的柯利牧羊犬去了那里，
went over there with their collie dogs

363
00:16:46,090 --> 00:16:47,523
在那里做牧羊人。
to work as shepherds over there.

364
00:16:47,573 --> 00:16:49,283
他们在这里作为牧羊人的专业知识
Their expertise as shepherds here

365
00:16:49,333 --> 00:16:51,821
在那里转化得非常好。
transferred quite well over there.

366
00:16:51,871 --> 00:16:53,763
而且他们很擅长应对那里
And they were good on the largest dancy

367
00:16:53,813 --> 00:16:55,813
的大牧场。
as they have over there.

368
00:16:58,111 --> 00:17:01,501
默多的雇主名叫梅嫩德斯。
The name of Murdo's employer was Manendez.

369
00:17:01,551 --> 00:17:04,237
他对他的苏格兰牧羊人印象非常深刻，
He was so impressed with his Scottish shepherd,

370
00:17:04,287 --> 00:17:06,856
以至于当默多回到刘易斯岛结婚时，
that when Murdo returned to Lewis to marry,

371
00:17:06,906 --> 00:17:09,578
他被要求承诺将梅嫩德斯这个名字
he was made to promise to give the name Manendez

372
00:17:09,628 --> 00:17:11,461
给予他第一个出生的儿子。
to his first born son.

373
00:17:12,407 --> 00:17:13,443
- 就这样我的祖父，
- And that's how my grandfather,

374
00:17:13,493 --> 00:17:15,021
也就是在这里创立了这家企业的人，
who established the business here

375
00:17:15,071 --> 00:17:16,579
就成了查尔斯·梅嫩德斯·麦克劳德。
became Charles Manendez McLeod.

376
00:17:16,629 --> 00:17:18,245
我觉得这很独特。
That's quite unique, I would've thought.

377
00:17:18,295 --> 00:17:20,801
- 是的，当然，对刘易斯来说非常不寻常。
- Yeah, sure, very unusual for Lewis.

378
00:17:20,851 --> 00:17:22,840
没人知道刘易斯岛人有叫梅嫩德斯中间名的。
Nobody knew Lewis men with a middle name Manendez.

379
00:17:22,890 --> 00:17:23,723
- 是的。
- Yeah.

380
00:17:26,430 --> 00:17:28,061
三代之后，
Three generations later,

381
00:17:28,111 --> 00:17:31,778
企业仍然牢牢掌握在家族手中。
the business is still firmly in family hands.

382
00:17:31,828 --> 00:17:35,661
生产正宗的斯托诺韦黑布丁。
Producing authentic Stornoway black pudding.

383
00:17:35,711 --> 00:17:37,122
- 嗯，我想我得买一个。
- Well, I think I'm gonna have to buy one.

384
00:17:37,172 --> 00:17:38,120
- 当然。
- Sure.

385
00:17:38,170 --> 00:17:39,960
- 我不确定我是否能吃完一整个。
- I'm not sure if I can manage a whole one of those.

386
00:17:40,010 --> 00:17:42,699
因为那个尺寸相当吓人。
Because that is pretty intimidating in size.

387
00:17:42,749 --> 00:17:43,778
来一个这种小的怎么样？
How about one of these small ones?

388
00:17:43,828 --> 00:极速5分钟 17:44,781
当然，来一个小号的？
Sure, one of the little ones?

389
00:17:44,831 --> 00:17:45,998
好的。
Yeah.

390
00:17:49,370 --> 00:17:52,482
把我优质的黑布丁小心收好后，
With my quality black pudding carefully stowed,

391
00:17:52,532 --> 00:17:54,482
我再次上路了。
I hit the road again.

392
00:17:54,532 --> 00:17:56,882
我很有信心，朋友和家人看到我的“马拉卡杜”时
Feeling confident that friends and family

393
00:17:56,932 --> 00:18:00,061
会留下深刻印象，
will be impressed when they see my marakadoo,

394
00:18:00,111 --> 00:18:02,642
这是它在盖尔语中的叫法。
as it's known in Gaelic.

395
00:18:02,692 --> 00:18:04,840
但我悠闲的白日梦被
But my idle daydreams are interrupted

396
00:18:04,890 --> 00:18:07,698
一辆不寻常的过往车辆打断了。
by an unusual passing vehicle.

397
00:18:07,748 --> 00:18:09,640
一个轮子上的银行。
A bank on wheels.

398
00:18:09,690 --> 00:18:11,720
一个曾在赫布里底群岛常见的景象，
A once common sight in the Hebrides

399
00:18:11,770 --> 00:18:14,115
正如早期的访客所发现的，
which as earlier visitors discovered,

400
00:18:14,165 --> 00:18:17,415
这种罕见的移动银行业务是这里首创的。
this rare mobile banking was pioneered.

401
00:18:18,452 --> 00:18:20,802
- 我已经走了大约半个小时，
- I've been walking for about half an hour

402
00:18:20,852 --> 00:18:22,898
这时我看到一辆货车开来。
when I saw a van coming.

403
00:18:22,948 --> 00:18:26,040
起初我以为它来自斯托诺韦的一家花呢厂。
At first I thought it was from a tweed mill in Stornoway.

404
00:18:26,090 --> 00:18:29,958
从小农家中收集花呢。
Collecting the tweed from the crofters' homes.

405
00:18:30,008 --> 00:18:31,960
当我看到它真正是什么时，
When I saw what it really was

406
00:18:32,010 --> 00:18:34,260
我简直不敢相信。
I just couldn't believe it.

407
00:18:38,011 --> 00:18:39,720
它是一家银行。
It was a bank.

408
00:18:39,770 --> 00:18:41,187
一个轮子上的银行。
A bank on wheels.

409
00:18:44,431 --> 00:18:47,064
为了服务分散的岛屿社区，
To serve the scattered island communities,

410
00:18:47,114 --> 00:18:50,920
移动银行服务在70年前就建立了。
the mobile banking service was established 70 years ago.

411
00:18:50,970 --> 00:18:53,320
一个令人惊讶且独特的创新，
A surprising and unique innovation

412
00:18:53,370 --> 00:18:57,537
这无疑是西部第一个也是最好的。
that was surely the first and the best in the west.

413
00:18:59,210 --> 00:19:01,799
- 我们一周营业三天。
- We bank three days in the week.

414
00:19:01,849 --> 00:19:04,002
所以我们从刘易斯岛底部一路
So we go everywhere from the bottom Lewis

415
00:19:04,052 --> 00:19:07,266
一直到哈里斯岛的艾姆博德尔。
all the way down to aim Bodel in Harris.

416
00:19:07,316 --> 00:19:10,365
- 你知道它1946年在刘易斯岛开始时，
- Do you know when it began in Lewis in 1946,

417
00:19:10,415 --> 00:19:12,925
它是英国第一家流动银行。
it was the first traveling bank in Britain.

418
00:19:12,975 --> 00:19:14,808
可能在世界范围内也是。
Possibly in the world.

419
00:19:15,796 --> 00:19:18,584
真没想到能在不列颠群岛
Fancy coming across the most advanced development

420
00:19:18,634 --> 00:19:21,725
最偏远的地区之一遇到
in modern banking in one of the most remote areas

421
00:19:21,775 --> 00:19:23,525
现代银行业最先进的发展。
of the British isles.

422
00:19:25,556 --> 00:19:26,504
你们怎么让人知道你们来了？
How do you make yourself known?

423
00:19:26,554 --> 00:19:28,202
你们有像呼叫信号之类的东西吗？
Do you have like a call sign?

424
00:19:28,252 --> 00:19:29,426
像冰淇淋车那样？
Like an ice cream van?

425
00:19:29,476 --> 00:19:30,309
- 没有。
- No.

426
00:19:31,252 --> 00:19:35,543
我们的常客，我们实际上会给他们一个小标志。
Our regular customers, we actually give them a wee sign.

427
00:19:35,593 --> 00:19:36,640
所以他们把它放在窗户上，
So they pop it in their window

428
00:19:36,690 --> 00:19:39,190
如果他们想让我们停车。
if they're wanting us to stop.

429
00:19:42,255 --> 00:19:44,402
这是一种社会服务。
It's a kind of social service.

430
00:19:44,452 --> 00:19:47,899
尽管是一种令人愉悦的老式服务。
Although of a pleasing old fashioned kind.

431
00:19:47,949 --> 00:19:51,379
并且与国际银行业的世界相去甚远。
And a far cry from a world of international banking.

432
00:19:51,429 --> 00:19:53,512
如此频繁地登上头条。
So much in the headlines.

433
00:19:54,554 --> 00:19:56,478
- 这位女士，我有好几个月没见到她了。
- This lady, I hadn't seen her for a couple of months.

434
00:19:56,528 --> 00:19:58,201
我有好一阵子没跑这条线了，
I haven't been out in this run for a wee while

435
00:19:58,251 --> 00:19:59,343
所以见到她真好，
so it was lovely to see her

436
00:19:59,393 --> 00:20:02,102
和她聊聊天，看看她过得怎么样。
and just chat with her and see that she's doing okay.

437
00:20:02,152 --> 00:20:03,902
所以，是的，这很好。
So yeah, it was nice.

438
00:20:07,594 --> 00:20:09,144
无论人们住在哪里，
Wherever the people live,

439
00:20:09,194 --> 00:20:10,146
无论他们在哪里，
wherever they are,

440
00:20:10,196 --> 00:20:12,779
他们都会得到银行的拜访。
they get a visit from the bank.

441
00:20:21,732 --> 00:20:22,799
从表面上看，
On the face of it,

442
00:20:22,849 --> 00:20:27,426
长岛的景观是野生和荒芜的。
the landscape of the long island is wild and barren.

443
00:20:27,476 --> 00:20:30,882
正是这种未驯服的、甚至是原始的感觉
It was this sense of the untamed and even the primitive

444
00:20:30,932 --> 00:20:33,944
吸引了早期的游客。
that fascinated early tourists.

445
00:20:33,994 --> 00:20:36,365
当来访的摄影师和电影制作人
And when visiting photographers and film makers

446
00:20:36,415 --> 00:20:39,362
到达这里时，他们迅速捕捉了刘易斯生活的
arrived here, they were quick to capture this aspect

447
00:20:39,412 --> 00:20:40,579
这一面。
of Lewis life.

448
00:20:41,535 --> 00:20:43,906
展示黑色的帐篷和岛民
Showing the black camps and islanders

449
00:20:43,956 --> 00:20:47,289
英勇地与自然元素抗争。
toiling heroically against the elements.

450
00:20:48,314 --> 00:20:50,545
这是一种非常浪漫的感觉。
It was a very romantic feel.

451
00:20:50,595 --> 00:20:53,280
但这并不是岛民看待自己的方式。
But it wasn't how islanders saw themselves.

452
00:20:53,330 --> 00:20:57,497
直到一位当地人制作出了他自己不同的影像。
Until a local man produced different images of his own.

453
00:20:58,415 --> 00:21:00,402
这些亲密而尊贵的照片
These intimate and dignified photographs

454
00:21:00,452 --> 00:21:02,466
是一个多世纪前由
were taken over a century ago

455
00:21:02,516 --> 00:21:04,802
诺曼·莫里森拍摄的。
by Norman Morrison.

456
00:21:04,852 --> 00:21:07,405
他特意不去将他的族人描绘成
He went out of his way not to depict his people

457
00:21:07,455 --> 00:21:09,346
奇特的民族物种，
as ethnic curiosities,

458
00:21:09,396 --> 00:21:12,344
而是去揭示他们的人性。
but to reveal their humanity.

459
00:21:12,394 --> 00:21:14,904
多年来，这些影像一直被遗忘。
For years, these images lay forgotten.

460
00:21:14,954 --> 00:21:17,905
直到自由摄影师默多·麦克劳德
Until freelance photographer Murdo MacLeod

461
00:21:17,955 --> 00:21:22,001
将诺曼的照片带入公众视野。
brought Norman's photographs to public attention.

462
00:21:22,051 --> 00:21:23,624
我从未见过这样的照片。
I've never seen photographs like this.

463
00:21:23,674 --> 00:21:25,704
我想他一定是最早的之一，
And I imagine he must be one of the very first,

464
00:21:25,754 --> 00:21:29,202
即使不是第一个使用相机记录
if not the first Gael to use a camera to record

465
00:21:29,252 --> 00:21:31,562
他身边人们的盖尔人。
the people he lived amongst.

466
00:21:31,612 --> 00:21:33,745
- 我认为你在这点上完全正确。
- I think you're absolutely right in that.

467
00:21:33,795 --> 00:21:36,904
我认为他对他所拍摄的对象
I think that he's extremely romantic about,

468
00:21:36,954 --> 00:21:39,645
怀有极其浪漫的情感，他拍摄的是他非常熟悉的人。
he was photographing people that he knew well.

469
00:21:39,695 --> 00:21:41,945
与他们有默契。
With whom he had a rapport.

470
00:21:43,252 --> 00:21:46,504
这一点在照片中得到了极大的体现。
And that is massively reflected in the pictures.

471
00:21:46,554 --> 00:21:50,064
这些照片在技术上非常出色。
And the pictures technically fantastic.

472
00:21:50,114 --> 00:21:52,024
构图优美。
Beautifully composed.

473
00:21:52,074 --> 00:21:53,624
这也是一种合作。
It's a collaboration as well.

474
00:21:53,674 --> 00:21:56,024
在这些照片中，摄影师和被摄对象携手
That hand in hand the photographer and the subjects

475
00:21:56,074 --> 00:21:58,744
向我们呈现他们自己，
in these pictures in presenting themselves to us

476
00:21:58,794 --> 00:21:59,885
正如我们所看到的那样。
as we see them.

477
00:21:59,935 --> 00:22:02,802
- 这里有一张是一个年轻女子
- There's one here of a young woman

478
00:22:02,852 --> 00:22:05,165
坐在一位老妇人旁边，
sitting beside an elderly woman

479
00:22:05,215 --> 00:22:07,304
老妇人看起来像是卧病在床。
who looks as if she's in a sick bed.

480
00:22:07,354 --> 00:22:10,125
没有多少人会被邀请到别人家里，
Not many people would be invited into someone's home

481
00:22:10,175 --> 00:22:12,285
当有人正在被护理康复时。
when they're being nursed back to health.

482
00:22:12,335 --> 00:22:14,626
- 确实，我认为那张照片，
- Indeed, I think that that,

483
00:22:14,676 --> 00:22:17,784
蕴含着巨大的尊严。
there's tremendous dignity in that picture.

484
00:22:17,834 --> 00:22:19,864
我认为它表明了
And I think that it's a statement of

485
00:22:19,914 --> 00:22:22,385
两位女性之间的亲密和感情。
the closeness and the affection between the two women.

486
00:22:22,435 --> 00:22:25,565
但你也可以从年轻女子
But you can also see it in the gaze of the young woman

487
00:22:25,615 --> 00:22:27,400
凝视摄影师的目光中看出来。
looking at the photographer.

488
00:22:27,450 --> 00:22:29,186
你可以立刻看出她并不
You can tell immediately she doesn't

489
00:22:29,236 --> 00:22:33,403
觉得自己的隐私受到任何侵犯。
feel that her privacy is being invaded in any way.

490
00:22:36,753 --> 00:22:39,362
这张自拍显示了摄影师
This self portrait shows the photographer

491
00:22:39,412 --> 00:22:43,906
诺曼·莫里森，他当时是一名警察。
Norman Morrison who at the time, was working as a policeman.

492
00:22:43,956 --> 00:22:46,360
作为一个渔夫的儿子，他离开刘易斯岛时
The son of a fisherman, he left Lewis

493
00:22:46,410 --> 00:22:49,702
几乎没有受过任何正规教育。
with hardly any formal education.

494
00:22:49,752 --> 00:22:52,664
在他所做的几乎所有事情上都是自学成才，
Self taught in almost everything he did,

495
00:22:52,714 --> 00:22:55,544
诺曼成为了一位备受尊敬的博物学家。
Norman became a highly respected naturalist.

496
00:22:55,594 --> 00:22:59,042
以其对蛇的研究而闻名。
Renowned for his work on snakes.

497
00:22:59,092 --> 00:23:02,162
尽管他著述广泛，并广泛发表，
Although he wrote extensively, and was widely published,

498
00:23:02,212 --> 00:23:04,786
他对摄影的热情却被遗忘了，
his passion for photography was forgotten

499
00:23:04,836 --> 00:23:08,925
直到这些精彩的影像被重新发现。
until these wonderful images were re-discovered.

500
00:23:08,975 --> 00:23:10,680
- 我对他的照片评价很高。
- I rate his photographs very highly.

501
00:23:10,730 --> 00:23:14,264
我认为你不需要任何复杂
And I don't think you need any great

502
00:23:14,314 --> 00:23:16,786
的分析就能看出来。
complex analysis to do that.

503
00:23:16,836 --> 00:23:18,285
我认为它们不言自明。
I think they speak for themselves.

504
00:23:18,335 --> 00:23:21,944
它们是强有力的、吸引人注意的肖像。
They are strong, attention grabbing portraits.

505
00:23:21,994 --> 00:23:24,494
它们布局优美。
They are beautifully laid out.

506
00:23:25,716 --> 00:23:29,216
是展示服饰、着装、情感的挂毯。
Tapestries showing dress, attire, emotion.

507
00:23:30,254 --> 00:23:33,426
角色之间和戏剧中的相互关系。
Inter relationship between the characters and the drama.

508
00:23:33,476 --> 00:23:36,309
全是新的，是一个惊人的发现。
All new and a fantastic discovery.

509
00:23:45,852 --> 00:23:47,317
一个世纪前，
A century ago,

510
00:23:47,367 --> 00:23:50,525
诺曼·麦克劳德意识到了摄影的力量
Norman McLeod realized the power of photography

511
00:23:50,575 --> 00:23:53,075
来定义一个民族或一个地方。
to define a people or a place.

512
00:23:54,335 --> 00:23:57,881
今天，地球上几乎每个人都意识到
Today, just about everyone on the planet is conscious

513
00:23:57,931 --> 00:24:00,424
他们投射的形象。
of the image they project.

514
00:24:00,474 --> 00:24:02,584
刘易斯岛也不例外。
Lewis is no exception.

515
00:24:02,634 --> 00:24:04,765
而现在与这些岛屿紧密相关的形象
And the image that's now closely associated

516
00:24:04,815 --> 00:24:07,982
已经成为一个标志。
with these islands has become an icon.

517
00:24:08,833 --> 00:24:10,416
刘易斯象棋棋子。
The Lewis chessmen.

518
00:24:11,498 --> 00:24:13,261
- 刘易斯象棋棋子有一段引人入胜
- The Lewis chessmen have an intriguing

519
00:24:13,311 --> 00:极速5分钟 24:16,402
且真正神秘的历史。
and genuinely mysterious history.

520
00:24:16,452 --> 00:24:19,243
没有什么地方比这里，在乌伊格湾美丽的沙滩上，
And there's nowhere more intimately connected with them

521
00:24:19,293 --> 00:24:23,048
与它们的关系更密切的了。
than here on the beautiful sands of Uig bay.

522
00:24:23,098 --> 00:24:26,848
这就是故事真正鲜活起来的地方。
This is where the story really comes to life.

523
00:24:28,058 --> 00:24:30,328
马尔科姆·麦克莱恩住在这里，俯瞰着这片
Malcolm McLean lives overlooking this

524
00:24:30,378 --> 00:24:33,160
壮丽的海岸线。
glorious stretch of coast.

525
00:24:33,210 --> 00:24:36,780
我和他一起来到这片沙滩上，93个雕刻精美的
I join him on the sands where 93 exquisitely carved

526
00:24:36,830 --> 00:24:40,881
象棋人偶于1831年被一个名叫卡伦·麦克劳德的
chess figures were discovered in 1831 by a lookalong

527
00:24:40,931 --> 00极速5分钟:24:42,098
牧牛人发现。
Callen McLeod.

528
00:24:44,212 --> 00:24:46,040
- 是他的牛发现了它们。
- It was his cow found them.

529
00:24:46,090 --> 00:24:50,007
他的牛在那边刨沙子。
His cow was burrowing into the sand over there.

530
00:24:52,191 --> 00:24:55,492
然后这些小雕像就出现了。
And these little figures appeared.

531
00:24:55,542 --> 00:24:59,965
起初，故事说他不太确定
And at first, story goes that he wasn't so sure

532
00:25:00,015 --> 00:25:01,721
这些是什么。
what these were.

533
00:25:01,771 --> 00:25:04,021
所以他最终以30英镑的价格
So he ended up selling them

534
00:25:06,218 --> 00:25:08,885
把它们卖给了一个当地乡绅。
to a local worthy for 30 pounds.

535
00:25:10,058 --> 00:25:12,104
- 我想在那个时候那是一笔巨款。
- A fortune in those days, I imagine.

536
00:25:12,154 --> 00:25:15,208
- 30英镑在那个时候是很多钱。
- 30 pounds would've been a lot of money in those days.

537
00极速5分钟:25:15,258 --> 00:25:16,925
但算下来每个棋子
But it's a quite that that works out

538
00:25:16,975 --> 00:25:19,224
还不到50便士。
to less than 50 pence each.

539
00:25:19,274 --> 00:25:20,225
- 是的。
- It is.

540
00:25:20,275 --> 00:25:23,482
- 考虑到大英博物馆将它们描述为
- Given that the British museum describes them as

541
00:25:23,532 --> 00:25:26,943
其第六重要的本土文物。
their sixth most important homeland artifacts.

542
00:25:26,993 --> 00:25:28,445
- 嗯，它们现在完全是标志性的了。
- Well, they're totally iconic now.

543
00:25:28,495 --> 00:25:30,386
绝对是的。
Absolutely.

544
00:25:30,436 --> 00:25:32,264
- 我们知道它们是怎么到这里的吗？
- Do we know how they got here?

545
00:25:32,314 --> 00:25:35,645
- 嗯，关于它们如何到达这里
- Well, there's no hard evidence

546
00:25极速5分钟:35,695 --> 00:25:37,608
没有确凿的证据。
as to how they got here.

547
00:25:37,658 --> 00:25:40,464
但有一个当地的传说，其年代早于
But there is a local legend the pre-dates

548
00:25:40,514 --> 00:25:42,847
棋子的发现。
the finding of the chessmen.

549
00:25:45,589 --> 00:25:47,666
这是一个奇怪的故事
This is a strange story

550
00:25:47,716 --> 00:25:50,621
讲述了一个当地人，安吉利亚·鲁阿格，
which tells of a local man, Angilia Ruag,

551
00:25:50,671 --> 00:25:52,462
他当时正在山里干活，
who was working in the mountains

552
00:25:52,512 --> 00:25:55,923
看到一艘船抛锚，一个人偷渡上岸，
when he saw a ship drop anchor and a man steal ashore

553
00:25:55,973 --> 00:25:57,223
拿着一个袋子。
carrying a bag.

554
00:25:59,375 --> 00:26:02,088
安吉利亚·鲁阿格跟着他穿过山丘。
Angilia Ruag followed him through the hills.

555
00:26:02,138 --> 00:26:05,138
以为袋子里装着财宝。
Thinking the bag contained treasure.

556
00:26:06,611 --> 00:26:09,464
- 安吉利亚·鲁阿格最终用石头杀了他。
- Angilia Ruag ends up killing him with a stone.

557
00:26:09,514 --> 00:26:12,504
用石头谋杀了他，为了
Murdering with a stone in order to

558
00:26:12,554 --> 00:26:14,445
偷走那个袋子。
steal the bag.

559
00:26:14,495 --> 00:26:16,285
从山上下来后，
Comes down from the mountains,

560
00:26:16,335 --> 00:26:19,207
他把这袋财宝埋在了这里。
he buries this bag of treasure here.

561
00:26:19,257 --> 00:26:20,386
在海滩上。
In the beach.

562
00:26:20,436 --> 00:26:24,603
几年后，他因另一起谋杀罪被绞死。
And some years later, he is hung for another murder.

563
00:26:25,935 --> 00:26:28,824
在斯托诺韦的绞刑山上被绞死。
And hung in gallows hill in Stornoway.

564
00:26:28,874 --> 00:26:31,464
但在被绞死之前，他承认了这起谋杀，
But prior to his hanging, he confesses to this murder

565
00:26:31,514 --> 00:26:34,162
以及他在乌伊格海滩上
and to the fact that he had buried a bag of treasure

566
00:26:34,212 --> 00:26:36,295
埋了一袋财宝的事实。
here on the beach at Uig.

567
00:26:37,594 --> 00:26:39,544
有什么证据表明这是一个真实的故事吗？
Is there any evidence that this is a true story?

568
00:26:39,594 --> 00:26:42,306
- 嗯，有一定程度的证据支持这个说法，
- Well, it is a degree of evidence to support this

569
00:26:42,356 --> 00:26:44,824
因为那边的山上有一具骷髅，
because there is a skeleton in the mountains up there

570
00:26:44,874 --> 00:26:46,744
我亲眼见过。
that I've seen myself.

571
00:26:46,794 --> 00:26:49,906
在我们住所后面的山谷里，
And the glen in the back of where we live,

572
00:26:49,956 --> 00:26:53,039
有一块悬垂的岩石，
there is an overhanging rock which is

573
00:26:54,531 --> 00:26:58,205
这些石头就放在悬岩下面。
has these stones placed underneath the overhang.

574
00:26:58,255 --> 00:26:59,799
如果你把石头搬开，
And if you pull that out,

575
00:26:59,849 --> 00:27:03,766
骷髅仍然可见，就在那里的岩石下面，
the skeleton's still visible in the rocks there

576
00:27:04,752 --> 00:27:06,752
在悬岩底下。
underneath the overhang.

577
00:27:08,170 --> 00:27:10,968
这些是谋杀受害者的骨头吗？
Were these the bones of the murder victim?

578
00:27:11,018 --> 00:27:12,488
我们永远无法知道。
We'll never know.

579
00:27:12,538 --> 00:27:13,928
但无论真相如何，
But whatever the truth,

580
00:27:13,978 --> 00:27:18,364
神秘仍然笼罩着这些美丽的象牙雕像。
mystery still surrounds these beautiful ivory figures.

581
00:27:18,414 --> 00:27:20,764
很长一段时间，人们认为它们
For a long time, they were thought to have

582
00:27:20,814 --> 00:27:22,866
起源于斯堪的纳维亚。
a Scandinavian origin.

583
00:27极速5分钟:22,916 --> 00:27:26,125
但最近的一项研究表明它们比先前认为的
But a recent study suggests they are closer to Lewis

584
00:27:26,175 --> 00:27:28,258
更接近刘易斯岛。
than previously supposed.

585
00:27:29,498 --> 00:27:32,040
它们复杂的装饰与凯尔特艺术品
Their intricate decoration is very similar

586
00:27:32,090 --> 00:27:33,862
非常相似。
to Celtic artwork.

587
00:27:33,912 --> 00:27:35,304
将它们历史上置于
Placing them historically

588
00:27:35,354 --> 00:27:38,322
中世纪诺斯克-盖尔人的世界。
in the world of the medieval Norsk Gaels.

589
00:27:38,372 --> 00:27:41,650
以及像来自罗德尔的阿拉斯代尔·克罗塔赫
And men like Alasdair Crotach from Rodel

590
00:27:41,700 --> 00:27:44,033
那样曾经统治赫布里底群岛的人。
who once ruled the Hebrides.

591
00:27:48,631 --> 00:27:53,005
告别马尔科姆，我在乌伊格美丽的沙滩上漫步。
Leaving Malcolm, I wander the beautiful sands of Uig.

592
00:27:53,055 --> 00:27:56,472
并反思我的西部宏伟之旅。
And reflect on my grand tour of the west.

593
00:27:58,611 --> 00:28:01,942
哈里斯和刘易斯的长岛是一个
The long island of Harris and Lewis is a place

594
00:28:01,992 --> 00:28:05,784
传统与现代似乎都蓬勃发展的的地方。
where tradition and modernity seem to thrive.

595
00:28:05,834 --> 00:28:07,384
一个拥抱新事物的地方，
A place that embraces the new

596
00:28:07,434 --> 00:28:11,601
一个不同文化世代交融的地方。
and where different cultures have mixed for generations.

597
00:28:13,274 --> 00:28:15,661
- 这些来源复杂的小雕刻棋子
- It's fitting that the little carved chessmen

598
00:28:15,711 --> 00:28:17,480
用来象征这个岛屿
with their complex origins

599
00:28:17,530 --> 00:28:20,482
是再合适不过了。
have come to symbolize the island.

600
00:28:20,532 --> 00:28:23,864
站在这世界上最美丽的海滩之一，
And standing here on one of the most beautiful beaches

601
00:28:23,914 --> 00:28:25,942
我能充分体会到
in the world, I can fully appreciate

602
00:28:25,992 --> 00:28:28,492
西部何以真正意味着最好。
how west really can mean best.

603
00:28:32,389 --> 00:28:34,664
请加入我的下一次苏格兰群岛
Join me on my next grand tour

604
00:28:34,714 --> 00:28:36,202
伟大之旅。
of the Scottish islands.

605
00:28:36,252 --> 00:28:39,669
我将探索尤伊斯特岛和本贝丘拉岛。
I'll be exploring the Uist and Benbecula.