1
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从苏格兰大陆向西行驶，
Heading west from the Scottish mainland,

2
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海天之间的一道黑线可能指示着一个低洼的岛屿，
a dark line between the sea and the sky can indicate a low-lying island,

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一片被海洋碎浪和持续风暴塑造的狂野土地。
a wild scrap of land sculpted by ocean breakers and constant storms.

4
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就在那边，地平线上，是苏格兰海岸线上
Over there, just on the horizon, are two of the most windswept

5
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两个风力最强的岛屿——
islands on the Scottish coast -

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大西洋上的双生岛屿科尔岛和泰里岛。
the Atlantic twins of Coll and Tiree.

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在这个系列中，我正开启一次岛屿盛大之旅，
In this series, I'm embarking on an island Grand Tour,

8
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从北部的奥克尼群岛，旅行至西南部的吉厄岛。
travelling from the Orkneys in the north, to Gigha in the southwest.

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一代又一代的旅行者出发去探索
Generations of travellers have set out to explore

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苏格兰群岛的魔力。
the magic of the Scottish Islands.

11
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我正追随他们的脚步，探索散布在
I'm following in their footsteps, exploring remote

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我们海岸线周围的偏远而迷人的地方，
and fascinating places scattered around our coastline,

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并拜访那些以这些岛屿为家的人。
and meeting the people who call these islands home.

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就像西部片里的场景！
Like something out of a Western!

15
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为了这次盛大之旅，我将航行进入大西洋去探索
For this Grand Tour, I'm sailing into the Atlantic to explore

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科尔岛和泰里岛。
the islands of Coll and Tiree.

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离开大陆，我的路线首先带我前往崎岖的
Leaving the mainland, my route takes me first to the rugged

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科尔岛，然后前往低洼的泰里岛，
isle of Coll and then onto the low-lying island of Tiree,

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然后向西前往孤独的
before heading west to the lonely

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斯凯里沃尔灯塔哨所。
sentinel of Skerryvore lighthouse.

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我旅程的起点是奥本，
The starting point of my journey is Oban,

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“群岛的门户”。至少150年来，
the "gateway to the isles". For at least 150 years,

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这个城镇一直是前往赫布里底群岛旅行者的主要渡轮枢纽。
the town has been the main ferry hub for travellers to the Hebrides.

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“奥本有很多可看之处，但我们离岛屿太近，无法在大陆上
'Oban has much to offer, but we're too near the islands to linger long

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“停留太久。空气中有咸味，
'on the mainland. There's a salt tang on the air,

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“它加快脉搏，激发想象力，振奋感官，
'it quickens the pulse, fires the imagination, exhilarates the senses,

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“这是大海的呼唤，是岛屿不可抗拒的呼唤的一部分。”
'it's the call of the sea that is part of the irresistible call of the isle.'

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苏格兰的岛屿常常成对出现——尽管
Scottish islands are often paired together - even though

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它们有时是不太可能的组合。
they sometimes make unlikely couples.

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在这个节目中，我想发现大西洋双生岛屿
In this programme, I want to discover just how closely

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科尔和泰里到底有多亲密。
related the Atlantic twins of Coll and Tiree really are.

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这是阿林纳古尔——科尔岛的首府。
This is Arinagour - the capital of Coll.

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在盖尔语中，阿林纳古尔意为山羊之地——今天没有山羊，
In Gaelic, Arinagour means the place of the goats - no goats today,

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但有很多羊。
but plenty of sheep.

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科尔岛是大西洋双生岛中最北的。
Coll is the most northerly of the Atlantic twins.

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这是一个低洼崎岖的岛屿，长13英里，宽3英里。
It's a low-lying rugged island 13 miles long by three miles wide.

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横穿岛屿，我正追随
Crossing the island, I'm following in the footsteps

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早期赫布里底旅行者约翰逊博士和詹姆斯·博斯韦尔的脚步，
of the early Hebridean travellers Dr Johnson and James Boswell,

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他们在1773年秋天著名的西部群岛之旅中
who were blown ashore here during their famous tour of

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被风吹到了这里。
the Western Isles in the autumn of 1773.

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这两位来自伦敦和爱丁堡的文学绅士因风暴滞留
The literary gents from London and Edinburgh were storm-stayed

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在科尔岛三天，但由于他们是好奇心强的人
on Coll for three days, but being the curious souls

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他们尽力拜访了当地人，以弥补糟糕的处境。
they were, they made the best of a bad job by visiting the locals.

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为了见我的第一位岛民，
To meet my first islander,

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我正前往科尔岛美丽的西侧，
I'm heading the beautiful west side of Coll,

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安格斯·肯尼迪住在一个曾是他祖先居住的小农场。
where Angus Kennedy lives on a croft once occupied by his ancestors.

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我祖父曾是这里的牧羊人。
My grandfather was the shepherd here.

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所以，在大陆生活和工作之后，
So it's kind of nice to come back

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能回到这里，
after living and working on the mainland,

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回到祖居地退休，感觉很好。
to retire back here to the ancestral homeland.

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回到你小时候的地方。
Back where you were as a boy.

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我母亲和父亲都说盖尔语。
My mother and father were both Gaelic speakers.

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但盖尔语或多或少已经消失了。
But Gaelic has more or less died out.

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你在日常生活中听不到它了。
You don't hear it on a day-to-day basis.

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在60年代和70年代还能听到。
You did in the '60s and '70s.

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这是一个巨大的遗憾，因为它有一种我们已经失去的丰富性。
It's a great shame because it had a richness that we've lost.

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几个世纪以来，科尔岛是否因人口减少而受苦，
Has Coll over the centuries suffered from depopulation

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“高地清洗”是历史上重要的一部分？
with the Clearances a significant part of the history?

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绝对是。我……
Absolutely. I've...

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在1820年，1830年有官方人口普查，
In 1820, 1830 there was the official census,

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他们记录有1500人居住在这里，在科尔岛。
they recorded 1,500 people living here on Coll.

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这些人去了新斯科舍省、澳大利亚和昆士兰州。
These people went to Nova Scotia, Australia and Queensland.

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想想人们从这里
To think of people coming from here

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去到如此陌生的土地，他们一定有着巨大的勇气，伟大的品格。
to such a strange land, they must've had great courage, great character.

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传统的生活方式并未完全抛弃科尔岛。
The traditional way of life hasn't abandoned Coll entirely.

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岛上的一些居民保持着赫布里底式的
Some of the island's residents maintain the Hebridean

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安格斯那些无畏祖先的精神。
spirit of Angus's intrepid ancestors.

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过来！（盖尔语）
Tiugainn!

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就像西部片里的场景！
Like something out of a Western!

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朝我们来的毛茸茸的奔腾队伍是由岛上
The woolly stampede headed our way is made up of one

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最古老的品种之一——赫布里底羊组成的。
of the island's most ancient of breeds - the Hebridean sheep.

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这些是说盖尔语的羊吗，安格斯？
Are these Gaelic-speaking sheep, Angus?

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是的，嗯，“Tiugainn”在盖尔语里是“过来”的意思。
Yes, well, tiugainn is "come" in Gaelic.

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它们在技术上是北欧短尾羊。
They're technically North European short-tailed sheep.

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几个世纪以来，它们一直被居住在岛上的人们饲养。
Over centuries, they've been kept by people who lived on the islands.

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在巴拉岛和南尤伊斯特岛，那些天主教岛屿，它们被称为受祝福的羊。
In Barra and South Uist, the Catholic islands, they're known as the blessed sheep.

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- 受祝福的羊！ - 因为它们在技术上是多角的。
- Blessed sheep! - Because they are technically multi-horn.

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- 啊哈！ - 像今天这样的日子，阳光透过羊角，
- Ah-ha! - And the sun on a day like today, shining through the horns,

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在地上映出十字架的标志。
made the sign of the cross on the ground.

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- 对。 - 这是它们在南部群岛的盖尔语名字之一。
- Right. - That's one of their Gaelic names in the southern isles.

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看起来惊人的动物，确实。
Amazing-looking beasts, certainly.

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是的。
They are.

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与你在岛上看到的普通的白色毛茸茸的怪物很不一样。
Quite unlike the normal white woolly monster you see on the islands.

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- 这些相当娇小。 - 它们与本土羊杂交过。
- These are quite petite. - They were crossed with the indigenous sheep.

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经过1000多年，最终的产物就是这些小黑羊，赫布里底羊。
And the end product, over 1,000 years now were the little black sheep, the Hebrideans.

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离开安格斯，我出发去探索岛屿的其余部分。
Leaving Angus, I set off to explore the rest of the island.

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遗憾的是，由于浓雾，现在几乎看不见了。
Sadly, it's almost invisible now through thick mist and fog.

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从安格斯告诉我的情况来看，科尔岛似乎自约翰逊和博斯韦尔的时代以来
From what Angus has told me, it seems that Coll has changed

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已经发生了相当大的变化。
considerably since Johnson and Boswell's time.

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在如今居住在这里的200人中——只有四五个
Of the 200 people who live here today - just four or five

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称自己为Collachs——真正的本地人。
call themselves Collachs - true natives.

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一个与科尔岛联系比大多数人更紧密的迁入者
One incomer with more of a connection to Coll than most

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住在岛的南端。
lives at the southern end of the island.

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这是Breachacha——在盖尔语中——意为有斑点的田野——
This is Breachacha - in Gaelic - the speckled field -

95
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那就是Breachacha城堡——麦克莱恩家族古老的所在地
and that is Breachacha Castle - the ancient seat of the Macleans

96
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科尔的麦克莱恩家族——一个约翰逊和博斯韦尔熟悉的地方。
of Coll - a place familiar to Johnson and Boswell.

97
00:07:12,200 --> 00:07:13,400
“从这些城墙内，
'From these walls,

98
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“科尔的麦克莱恩家族统治了这个岛屿几个世纪，
'the Macleans of Coll held sway over the island for centuries,

99
00:07:17,600 --> 00:07:22,920
“但当约翰逊和博斯韦尔来到这里时，它已处于废墟状态。
'but when Johnson and Boswell came here it was in a ruinous state.

100
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“修复工作始于30年前，由现任主人尼古拉斯·麦克莱恩·布里斯托尔开始，
'Restoration was begun 30 years ago by the present owner,

101
00:07:27,040 --> 00:07:29,000
“尼古拉斯·麦克莱恩·布里斯托尔，
'Nicholas Maclean Bristol,

102
00:07:29,000 --> 00:07:33,080
“他的前门迫使人们在进入前鞠躬。”
'whose front door forces people to bow before entering.'

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00:07:33,080 --> 00:07:34,800
我可以进来吗？
May I come in?

104
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- 当然可以。 - 谢谢。
- You certainly may. - Thank you.

105
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“在Breachacha城堡的大厅里，
'In the great hall of Breachacha Castle,

106
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“现代访客会面对一画廊的麦克莱恩祖先——
'modern visitors are confronted with a gallery of Maclean ancestors -

107
00:07:45,160 --> 00:07:49,360
“包括一些约翰逊和博斯韦尔可能熟悉的人。”
'including some who would have been familiar to Johnson and Boswell.'

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00:07:49,360 --> 00:07:51,960
你知道是谁建造了这座城堡吗？
Do you know who built this castle?

109
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知道，它是由，嗯，由第一代科尔的麦克莱恩建造的，
Yes, it was built, erm, built by the first Maclean of Coll,

110
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我的第十三代曾祖父，大约在1400年。
my 13th great grandfather in about 1400.

111
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嗯，他的叔叔是群岛领主，
Erm, and his uncle was the Lord of the Isles,

112
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群岛领主给了他科尔岛的中部、
and the Lord of the Isles gave him the middle bit of Coll and

113
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马尔岛和其他一些地方。
Mull and other bits.

114
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- 嗯。 - 但是，嗯，他必须为之战斗。
- Uh-huh. - And, erm, but he had to fight for it.

115
00:08:12,320 --> 00:08:16,400
从墙上的肖像中，我强烈地感觉到
From the portraits on the walls, I get a strong impression that

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战斗技能在麦克莱恩家族的历史中占据了重要地位。
fighting skills have figured large in Maclean history.

117
00:08:21,280 --> 00:08:22,560
他们都是军人。
They're all military men.

118
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- 他们一直追溯到……都是士兵？ - 你也是军人吗？
- They've all been soldiers right back as far as... - And you were a military man?

119
00:08:25,840 --> 00:08:30,120
是的。我的家族，自1651年以来每一代都有人在
Yes. My family, every generation since 1651 has been in the

120
00:08:30,120 --> 00:08:32,800
正规军队，不是，你知道，不是在氏族战争中战斗。
proper army, not, you know, not fighting in clan warfares.

121
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- 嗯。 - 他们全都战死了，家族首领
- Uh-huh. - And they were all killed, the head of the family

122
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和他的另外两个儿子在因弗基辛战役中阵亡。
and his two other sons were killed in battle of Inverkeithing.

123
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据说有800名麦克莱恩家族的人参加了战斗，只有40人幸存。
800 Macleans were meant to have gone to the battle and 40 survived.

124
00:08:41,440 --> 00:08:44,880
- 不过，你非常为那个传统感到自豪，我看得出来。 - 当然是的，是的，是的。
- You're very proud of that heritage, though, I can see. - Of course one is, yes, yes.

125
00:08:44,880 --> 00:08:47,360
- 嗯。 - 关键是试图激励自己的孩子对此产生
- Hm. - The thing is to try and inspire one's children to take

126
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兴趣，但我还没有成功。
an interest in it and I haven't yet succeeded at it.

127
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我欣慰地听说尼古拉斯早已
I'm relieved to hear that Nicholas has long

128
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不再躲避子弹，并已弃枪从笔。
since done dodging bullets and has exchanged the gun for the pen.

129
00:09:00,560 --> 00:09:04,840
在他花费时间撰写氏族历史的图书馆里，他
In the library, where he spends his time writing clan histories, he

130
00:09:04,840 --> 00:09:08,880
告诉我一次与老校友的偶然会面如何激励他
tells me how a chance meeting with an old school chum inspired him to

131
00:09:08,880 --> 00:09:15,480
利用他与妻子拉维尼娅修复的城堡，将精力集中在海外发展上。
use the castle which he'd restored with his wife Lavinia, to focus his energies on overseas development.

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这一切都始于这座城堡。
This all started with the castle.

133
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我一直因为自己的研究而将这座城堡视为
I always saw the castle because of one's research,

134
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某个国际事物的中心，但具体是什么呢？
as a centre of something international, but what?

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那时我不知道，当时我和我的营在亚丁
Then I didn't know and I was in Aden with my battalion

136
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我看到一个车队经过，
I saw a motorcade go past,

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在荣誉座位上是一张黑面孔，他曾在威灵顿和我同班。
and in the place of honour was a black face who'd been in my form at Wellington.

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我们曾是朋友。
We'd been friends.

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我给他打了电话，和他一起喝了杯，
I rang him up and had a drink with him,

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他建议我去埃塞俄比亚住下，他带我四处参观，
and he advised me to go and stay in Ethiopia, he took me around,

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00:09:44,680 --> 00:09:48,200
他对埃塞俄比亚的发展充满热情。
he was passionate about the development of Ethiopia.

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尼古拉斯的朋友是伊斯金德·德斯塔，海尔·塞拉西的孙子——
Nicholas's friend was Iskinder Desta the grandson of Haile Selassie -

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00:09:54,080 --> 00:09:56,280
埃塞俄比亚的最后一位皇帝。
the last Emperor of Ethiopia.

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他说：“在这个国家，无论肤色如何，都有空间让人们
He said, "There's room for people in this country whatever the colour of their skin

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“爱上埃塞俄比亚。”他让我离开军队，
"to fall in love with Ethiopia." He said to leave the army,

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并帮助他做我原本打算在这里做的事情。
and help him do what I was going to do here.

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我在通往大马士革的路上看到了耀眼的光芒（意指顿悟）
I had my blinding light on the road to Damascus

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所以我认为我的未来在科尔岛。
so I thought my future's in the isle of Coll.

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但我会从英国给你派来一流的人才，
But I'll send you first-rate people from Britain,

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你要让他们爱上埃塞俄比亚。
and you make them fall in love with Ethiopia.

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- 你们是来自项目信托基金吗？ - 是的。
- Are you from the Project Trust? - Yes.

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- 欢迎来到科尔岛，旅途顺利吗？ - 顺利。
- Welcome to Coll, have you had a good journey? - Yes.

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自1967年以来，项目信托基金一直为海外援助工作
Since 1967, Project Trust has been training young

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培训年轻的志愿者。
volunteers for overseas aid work.

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那时，尼古拉斯和拉维尼娅在Breachacha城堡
Back then, Nicholas and Lavinia ran the organisation from

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00:10:34,040 --> 00:10:37,400
半建成的家中运营这个组织。
the half-built home at Breachacha Castle.

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自早期以来，
Since those early days,

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00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:41,560
项目信托基金的发展超出了他们最疯狂的梦想。
Project Trust has developed beyond their wildest dreams.

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它不仅扭转了人们离开科尔的趋势，
Not only has it reversed the drift of people away from Coll,

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还成为了岛上最大的单一雇主。
it has become the island's biggest single employer.

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有多少志愿者通过项目信托基金？
How many volunteers have been through Project Trust?

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- 我们有6500人去海外。 - 6500人？！ - 是的。
- We've had 6,500 overseas. - 6,500?! - Yeah.

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- 你一定非常自豪。 - 我很高兴它成功了。
- You must be very proud. - I'm pleased it worked.

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尼古拉斯的家族不再是科尔的地主，
Nicholas's family are no longer lairds of Coll,

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但他的祖先曾是。
but his ancestors were.

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当约翰逊和博斯韦尔住在
When Johnson and Boswell stayed

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那个至今仍被称为新Breachacha城堡的地方时，
at what is still called New Breachacha Castle,

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麦克莱恩的家被约翰逊博士轻蔑地贬低了。
the Maclean home was snootily dismissed by Dr Johnson.

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“这里没有任何配得上酋长的地方。
"There is nothing becoming a chief about it.

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“不过是个商人的盒子。”
"'Tis a mere tradesman's box."

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为了获得一个更高视角来观察这个岛屿，
To get a more elevated perspective of the island,

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我走近科尔唯一的山——本霍山——这是约翰逊和博斯韦尔之旅中
I approach Coll's only mountain - Ben Hogh - another place on

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00:11:33,520 --> 00:11:36,320
的另一个地方。
Johnson and Boswell's tour.

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约翰逊博士从未登顶，而是宁愿在这座仅高出海平面
Dr Johnson never made it to the summit, preferring instead to

175
00:11:41,520 --> 00:11:44,720
341英尺的不起眼凸起物的半山腰
read a book halfway up this modest protuberance,

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读一本书。
which rises to the less than dizzy 341 feet above the sea.

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现在，这块令人印象深刻的岩石就是那位文学绅士
Now this impressive rock was the reason for the literary

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费力穿越石南丛和山丘的原因。
gent's slog over heather and hill.

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它非常独特的地方在于
What's quite unique about it

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它坐落在一块小得多的石头上，
is the fact that it's perched on three much smaller stones,

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几乎像是被一个巨人小心地放在那里。
almost as if had been carefully placed there by a giant.

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所以可能并不奇怪
So it may come as no surprise

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当地传说确实提到了一个巨人
that local legend does indeed mention a giant

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和一位巨人夫人以及一场巨大的家庭争吵
and a Mrs Giant and a gigantic domestic row

185
00:12:19,040 --> 00:12:20,560
他们没有扔餐盘，
and instead of dinner plates,

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这对怪物般的夫妇向对方投掷巨石。
this monstrous pair hurled boulders at each other.

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这就是其中之一。
And this is one of them.

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在1773年，约翰逊和博斯韦尔都无法
In 1773, neither Johnson nor Boswell

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解释这块巨石是如何来到这里的。
could explain how the boulder got here.

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科学尚未发现冰河时代以及早已融化的冰川
Science was yet to discover Ice Ages and the power of long-since

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在其冰背上将岩石搬运很长距离的能力。
melted glaciers to carry rocks great distances on their icy backs.

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从本霍山顶，
From the top of Ben Hogh,

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你可以看到所有邻近岛屿
you get an absolutely breathtaking 360-degree panorama

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绝对令人惊叹的360度全景，
of all the neighbouring islands

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包括，在西南方向那边，
including, to the southwest down there,

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泰里岛——
Tiree -

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我的下一个岛屿目的地。
my next island destination.

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约翰逊和博斯韦尔从未在泰里岛登陆，
Johnson and Boswell never made landfall on Tiree,

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00:13:14,400 --> 00:13:17,080
它的大小几乎和科尔岛一样
which is almost the same size as Coll

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00:13:17,080 --> 00:13:19,440
但看起来非常不同。
but it looks very different.

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它远没有那么崎岖，
It is much less rugged,

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00:13:21,280 --> 00:13:23,840
而且土地非常肥沃。
and the land is very fertile.

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00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:26,960
目前近700的人口
The current population of nearly 700

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是邻近科尔岛的三倍。
is three times that of neighbouring Coll.

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泰里岛的名字来源于盖尔语中的
Tiree derives its name from the Gaelic

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00:13:36,240 --> 00:13:39,800
“谷物之地”，从最早的时代起
for "land of the corn", and from the earliest times

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00:13:39,800 --> 00:13:44,480
就生产大量大麦，出口到其他岛屿。
produced an abundance of barley that was exported to other islands.

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00:13:46,080 --> 00:13:47,680
早在6世纪，
Back in the 6th century,

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00:13:47,680 --> 00:13:49,760
这里有一座修道院。
there was a monastery here.

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00:13:49,760 --> 00:13:52,000
但300年后，它在维京人入侵该岛时
But 300 years later, it was destroyed

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00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:55,280
被摧毁了。
when the Vikings invaded the island.

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00:13:55,280 --> 00:13:59,360
现在，这是一个奇怪的想法，但似乎无论一个岛屿
Now, it's an odd thought, but it doesn't seem to matter

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00:13:59,360 --> 00:14:01,960
看起来多么偏远，
how apparently remote an island is,

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00:14:01,960 --> 00:14:05,120
冲突往往构成其历史的一部分。
conflict so often forms part of its history.

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00:14:05,120 --> 00:14:09,840
第二次世界大战期间，平坦低洼的泰里岛
During the Second World War, the flat, low-lying island of Tiree

216
00:14:09,840 --> 00:14:13,080
被改造成一个巨大的空军基地——
was converted into a giant air base -

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就像大西洋中一艘巨大的、不沉的航空母舰。
like an enormous, unsinkable aircraft carrier in the Atlantic.

218
00:14:20,440 --> 00:14:23,800
皇家空军泰里基地于1941年启用
RAF Tiree opened in 1941

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00:14:23,800 --> 00:14:28,520
旧址现在被岛的商业机场占据。
on the site now occupied by the island's commercial airport.

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00:14:28,520 --> 00:14:29,640
从这里，
From here,

221
00:14:29,640 --> 00:14:33,360
海岸司令部飞越危险的大西洋任务
Coastal Command flew dangerous sorties over the Atlantic

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00:14:33,360 --> 00:14:35,720
以保护在战争期间维持英国补给
to protect the vital convoys

223
00:14:35,720 --> 00:14:38,600
的重要船队。
that kept Britain supplied during the war.

224
00:14:38,600 --> 00:14:42,920
机组人员还为泰里岛的气象站收集数据，
Air crews also gathered data for the meteorological station on Tiree,

225
00:14:42,920 --> 00:14:45,880
该站制定了诺曼底登陆日的天气预报
which created the D-Day weather forecast

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00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:50,120
该预报为1944年盟军入侵欧洲开了绿灯。
that greenlit the Allied invasion of Europe in 1944.

227
00:14:52,320 --> 00:14:56,040
“梅布尔·麦克阿瑟那时还是个小女孩
'Mabel McArthur was a young girl back then

228
00:14:56,040 --> 00:14:59,760
“并对岛上当时的生活有着清晰的记忆。”
'and has clear memories of what life was like on the island.'

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当时有超过3000名
There were over 3,000

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00:15:01,520 --> 00:15:04,440
- 皇家空军人员驻扎在岛上。 - 嗯？
- RAF personnel based here on the island. - Uh-huh?

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00:15:04,440 --> 00:15:06,600
他们到处都有营地。
And they had camps everywhere.

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00:15:06,600 --> 00:15:09,560
主要营地在机场。
There was the main camp, which was at the airport.

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00:15:09,560 --> 00:15:12,240
但是，嗯，他们就是到处都有营地
But, erm, they just had camps everywhere

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00:15:12,240 --> 00:15:14,720
你仍然可以看到一些这些建筑的地基
and you can still see the foundations

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00:15:14,720 --> 00:15:18,000
其中一些建筑本身
of some of these buildings, and some of the buildings

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00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:21,280
- 实际上还屹立着。 - 所以你说的是
- themselves are actually still standing. - So you're talking about

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00:15:21,280 --> 00:15:23,840
- 3000名皇家空军人员。 - 是的。
- 3,000 RAF personnel. - Yeah.

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00:15:23,840 --> 00:15:26,000
那时泰里岛的人口是多少？
And what was the population of Tiree at the time?

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00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:29,040
嗯，我不太确定当时的准确数字。
Now, I'm not quite sure what it was at THAT time.

240
00:15:29,040 --> 00:15:32,000
可能大约有一千人，但我不确定。我不确定。
It might've been about the thousand but I'm not sure. I'm not sure.

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00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:35,480
- 所以外来者的数量是压倒性的。 - 是的，确实是。绝对是。
- So it's an overwhelming number of incomers. - Yes, it was. Absolutely.

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道路上一直都很繁忙，全是这些车辆——
The roads were just busy ALL the time with these vehicles -

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巨大、庞大的卡车。
big, huge trucks.

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00:15:40,920 --> 00:15:44,480
皇家空军在这里时我们很幸运。他们常常让我们搭便车。
We were very lucky when the RAF were here. They used to give us lifts.

245
00:15:44,480 --> 00:15:47,480
- 是吗？ - 他们会停下来让我们搭车。
- Did they? - They would stop and give us lifts.

246
00:15:47,480 --> 00:15:50,440
车辆太大了，司机不得不下车
And the vehicles were so big, the driver had to get out

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00:15:50,440 --> 00:15:52,760
亲自把我们抱上座位。
and physically lift us up into the seat.

248
00:15:52,760 --> 00:15:54,400
但他们人很好，会这样做。
But they were very good like that.

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00:15:54,400 --> 00:15:56,960
搭便车去学校方便多了。
It made quite a difference getting a lift to school.

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00:15:59,440 --> 00:16:04,120
居住在泰里岛的皇家空军人员来自世界各地。
There was a cosmopolitan mix of RAF personnel living on Tiree.

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00:16:04,120 --> 00:16:07,080
他们来自加拿大、澳大利亚、
They came from Canada, Australia,

252
00:16:07,080 --> 00:16:10,000
波兰以及英国。
Poland, as well as the UK.

253
00:16:10,000 --> 00:16:12,520
他们来自全国各地。
They came from all over the country.

254
00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:15,360
- 他们被派驻到这里，但这并不是一个很受欢迎的派驻地。 - 明白。
- They were posted here and it wasn't a very popular posting. - Right.

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00:16:15,360 --> 00:16:18,560
- 为什么？ - 嗯，那时的泰里岛是一个非常不同的岛。
- Why was that? - Well, Tiree was a very different island in those days.

256
00:16:18,560 --> 00:16:19,800
它是一个禁酒岛。
It was a dry island.

257
00:16:19,800 --> 00:16:22,640
- 一个禁酒岛。 - 禁酒岛。 - 什么意思？不下雨？
- A DRY island. - A dry island. - What do you mean? It didn't rain?

258
00:16:22,640 --> 00:16:24,800
不，不，不。禁止酒精。
No, no, no. No alcohol.

259
00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:26,320
- 哦，禁止酒精？ - 是的。
- Oh, no alcohol? - Yes.

260
00:16:26,320 --> 00:16:27,800
- 明白。 - 没有许可证。
- Right. - No licence.

261
00:16:27,800 --> 00:16:29,320
而且，也没有水——
And also, there was no water -

262
00:16:29,320 --> 00:16:33,120
自来水——或者任何房屋里有电。
running water - or electricity in any of the houses.

263
00:16:33,120 --> 00:16:38,160
所以我相信泰里岛、嗯、斯卡帕湾和本贝丘拉
So I believe Tiree, um, Scapa Flow and Benbecula

264
00:16:38,160 --> 00:16:40,920
- 是三个非常不受欢迎的派驻点。 - 是的。
- were three very unpopular postings. - Right.

265
00:16:40,920 --> 00:16:43,720
当他们被告知要去那里时，他们感到很害怕。
When they were told this is where they were going, they dreaded it.

266
00:16:43,720 --> 00:16:46,400
- 他们不自己找乐子吗？ - 哦，是的。是的。
- Did they not provide their own entertainment? - Oh, yes. Yes.

267
00:16:46,400 --> 00:16:47,640
哦，他们确实找了，而且很多。
Oh, they did, very much so.

268
00:16:47,640 --> 00:16:50,480
他们有电影院。当然，他们有NAAFI（海军、陆军和空军研究所），
They had a cinema. They had a NAAFI, of course,

269
00:16:50,480 --> 00:16:54,320
还有电影院，而且，嗯，他们还在，你知道，像剧院一样
and a cinema, and, um, they also put on live shows

270
00:16:54,320 --> 00:16:55,880
举办现场表演。
in, you know, like a theatre.

271
00:16:55,880 --> 00:16:58,000
所以他们的到来真的给岛上的生活
So it really made a HUGE difference

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00:16:58,000 --> 00:17:00,320
带来了巨大的不同。
to life on the island, having them here.

273
00:17:00,320 --> 00:17:02,960
- 他们还升级了相当多的道路。 - 嗯。
- They upgraded quite a number of the roads also. - Uh-huh.

274
00:17:02,960 --> 00:17:06,440
而且他们允许当地人使用NAAFI，
And they allowed the local people to use the NAAFI,

275
00:17:06,440 --> 00:17:09,280
- 所以突然间泰里岛有了一个酒吧。 - 是的。
- so suddenly Tiree had a pub. - Right.

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00:17:09,280 --> 00:17:13,880
当地人被允许进入。在电影院，
And the locals were allowed to go in. And at the cinema,

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00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:16,120
岛上非常多人
very many people on the island

278
00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:19,400
有生以来第一次在电影院看了电影。
saw films in a cinema for the first time ever.

279
00:17:22,320 --> 00:17:27,920
战争和皇家空军的存在将泰里岛带入了现代世界。
The war and the presence of the RAF brought Tiree into the modern world.

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00:17:27,920 --> 00:17:33,800
但岛上的生活——即使拥有所有现代便利设施——也从来都不轻松。
But life on an island - even with all mod cons - has never been easy.

281
00:17:33,800 --> 00:17:36,080
泰里岛阳光充足的气候和肥沃的土壤
Tiree's sunny climate and fertile soils

282
00:17:36,080 --> 00:17:40,280
可能曾经很适合种植燕麦和大麦，
may once have been good for growing oats and barley,

283
00:17:40,280 --> 00:17:42,120
但这里的生活始终是
but life here was always

284
00:17:42,120 --> 00:17:45,400
一场与自然元素的无情斗争。
a relentless battle against the elements.

285
00:17:45,400 --> 00:17:49,520
这个岛屿是英国乃至整个欧洲
The island is one of the stormiest places

286
00:17:49,520 --> 00:17:52,560
风暴最多的地区之一。
not just in Britain, but in the whole of Europe.

287
00:17:52,560 --> 00:17:57,840
平均而言，这里一年有160天刮大风。
On average, there's a gale blowing here 160 days a year.

288
00:17:59,440 --> 00:18:03,400
为了保护自己免受凶猛的大西洋风暴侵袭，
To protect themselves against ferocious Atlantic storms,

289
00:18:03,400 --> 00:18:07,200
岛民发展出一种泰里岛独有的建筑风格。
islanders developed an architecture that's unique to Tiree.

290
00:18:07,200 --> 00:18:11,920
看，这种单层的“but and ben”（两室小屋）是相当典型的风格。
Now, this single-storey but and ben was fairly typical of the style.

291
00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:14,840
墙壁厚度可达六英尺
Walls could be up to six feet thick

292
00:18:14,840 --> 00:18:18,800
有时根本没有窗户。
and sometimes they had no windows at all.

293
00:18:18,800 --> 00:18:22,680
更像是一个抵御自然元素的掩体，而不是一所房子。
More like a bunker against the elements than a house.

294
00:18:25,960 --> 00:18:28,680
该岛在风暴频繁的大西洋中的位置
The island's position in the stormy Atlantic

295
00:18:28,680 --> 00:18:33,120
可能意味着务农，甚至只是站直，都是个问题，
might mean that crofting, or even standing upright, is a problem,

296
00:18:33,120 --> 00:18:37,720
但这里的条件对风帆冲浪来说是理想的。
but the conditions here are ideal for windsurfing.

297
00:18:37,720 --> 00:18:41,640
每年，泰里岛成为来自世界各地
Every year, Tiree becomes a Mecca for windsurfers

298
00:18:41,640 --> 00:18:45,440
风帆冲浪者的麦加圣地，他们渴望驾驭风浪
from around the world, keen to harness the wind and waves

299
00:18:45,440 --> 00:18:47,880
达到壮观的效果。
to spectacular effect.

300
00:18:50,440 --> 00:18:54,000
威廉·安格斯·麦克莱恩拥有“狂野钻石”——
William Angus MacLean owns Wild Diamond -

301
00:18:54,000 --> 00:18:56,760
一家风帆冲浪水上运动公司，为那些
a windsurfing water sports company catering for

302
00:18:56,760 --> 00:19:00,440
寻求在泰里岛海岸获得肾上腺素刺激的人服务。
those looking for adrenaline thrills along Tiree's coast.

303
00:19:00,440 --> 00:19:04,360
对于我们这里这么小的地理区域来说，
For such a small geographic area, as we've got here,

304
00:19:04,360 --> 00:19:06,800
我们有十几个朝向各个方向的海滩。
we've got a dozen beaches pointing in every direction.

305
00:19:06,800 --> 00:19:09,200
干净的白沙。
Clean white sands.

306
00:19:09,200 --> 00:19:11,360
这是个好消息。如果风从不同方向吹来，
That's fantastic news. If you've wind coming from

307
00:19:11,360 --> 00:19:14,200
你总能找到一个合适的海滩。
different directions, then you can always get a suitable beach.

308
00:19:14,200 --> 00:19:15,240
此外，
Additionally,

309
00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:17,880
泰里岛实际上正好位于大西洋的中心，
Tiree is smack in the middle of the Atlantic, effectively,

310
00:19:17,880 --> 00:19:19,600
所以我们有丰富的涌浪，
so we've an abundance of groundswell,

311
00:19:19,600 --> 00:19:21,920
也为风帆冲浪产生了良好的波浪。
generating good waves for windsurfing as well.

312
00:19:21,920 --> 00:19:23,840
泰里岛举办
Tiree hosts

313
00:19:23,840 --> 00:19:27,440
目前世界上历史最悠久的年度赛事，
what is now the longest-running annual event in the world,

314
00:19:27,440 --> 00:19:30,120
即泰里岛波浪经典赛。
which is the Tiree Wave Classic.

315
00:19:30,120 --> 00:19:32,160
它是历史最悠久的专业
It's been the longest-running professional

316
00:19:32,160 --> 00:19:33,720
风帆冲浪/波浪航行赛事，
windsurfing/wavesailing event

317
00:19:33,720 --> 00:19:36,640
始于80年代初，
which kicked off in the early '80s,

318
00:19:36,640 --> 00:19:40,360
并且除了几次中断外，一直举办至今。
and has run, with a couple of breaks, through until present-day.

319
00:19:40,360 --> 00:19:43,040
我认为这个赛事特别独特的地方在于
I think what's particularly unique about the event

320
00:19:43,040 --> 00:19:48,080
它吸引了所有英国顶级的专业风帆冲浪手参加。
is that it attracts all the top UK professional windsurfers to it.

321
00:19:48,080 --> 00:19:49,680
此外，其中一些人
And additionally, some of these guys

322
00:19:49,680 --> 00:19:51,680
也是世界巡回赛中的顶级选手。
are some the top guys in the world tour as well.

323
00:19:51,680 --> 00:19:53,800
航行能力简直超乎想象。
The sailing ability is just through the roof.

324
00:19:53,800 --> 00:19:55,280
出色的水手在水中
Fantastic sailors in the water

325
00:19:55,280 --> 00:19:57,480
做着非常鼓舞人心的事情。
doing very inspiring things.

326
00:19:57,480 --> 00:19:59,800
从观众的角度来看，这太棒了，
From a spectator's point of view, it's fantastic,

327
00:19:59,800 --> 00:20:02,520
而且这些人似乎很喜欢来这里，所以都是好消息。
and the guys seem to love coming here so it's all good news.

328
00:20:02,520 --> 00:20:04,800
风帆冲浪并不是泰里岛海滩
Windsurfing isn't the only sport

329
00:20:04,800 --> 00:20:07,480
举办的唯一运动。
that's hosted by the beaches of Tiree.

330
00:20:07,480 --> 00:20:11,440
我很高兴有机会尝试一下沙滩游艇。
I'm delighted to be offered a shot in a sand yacht.

331
00:20:15,600 --> 00:20:18,960
“威利告诉我，这些精巧的船只在强风中
'Willie tells me that these nifty craft are capable of

332
00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:21,480
“速度可达每小时70英里。
'70mph in a good blow.

333
00:20:21,480 --> 00:20:23,680
“当你的座位
'When the seat of your pants

334
00:20:23,680 --> 00:20:26,560
“离地只有四英寸时，
'is just four inches off the ground,

335
00:20:26,560 --> 00:20:31,160
“即使20英里的时速也感觉像超光速。”
'even 20mph feels like warp speed.'

336
00:20:31,160 --> 00:20:34,080
出发了！出发了！哇！
Here we go! Here we go! Phwoar!

337
00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:36,280
这挺刺激的。
This is quite exciting.

338
00:20:36,280 --> 00:20:38,560
嗖！
Neee-yow!

339
00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:50,360
啊！
Argh!

340
00:20:50,360 --> 00:20:51,680
砰！
Crass!

341
00:20:51,680 --> 00:20:54,680
“威利警告过我可能会发生这种事。
'Willie warned me that this might happen.

342
00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:57,160
“但至少我可以从这件事中得到安慰
'But at least I can take comfort from the fact

343
00:20:57,160 --> 00:20:59,600
“在泰里岛海岸遭遇海难
'that there is NOTHING new

344
00:20:59,600 --> 00:21:02,240
“并不是什么新鲜事。”
'in being shipwrecked on the shores of Tiree.'

345
00:21:03,240 --> 00:21:06,280
几个世纪以来，水手们冒着危险穿越
For centuries sailors ran the gauntlet

346
00:21:06,280 --> 00:21:09,080
西边这片凶险的海域，
of the treacherous seas west of here

347
00:21:09,080 --> 00:21:12,080
直到英国最高的灯塔建成，
until the construction of Britain's tallest lighthouse

348
00:21:12,080 --> 00:21:16,440
警告船只注意潜伏在波浪下的危险。
warned shipping of the dangers lurking beneath the waves.

349
00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:20,960
向南行驶，我正前往海尼什小村庄，
Heading south, I'm making my way to the small village of Hynish,

350
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:25,760
它由先驱灯塔工程师艾伦·史蒂文森建立。
which was founded by the pioneering lighthouse engineer Alan Stevenson.

351
00:21:25,760 --> 00:21:27,840
立刻就能明显看出
It's immediately obvious that

352
00:21:27,840 --> 00:21:30,840
海尼什有些不同。
there's something different about Hynish.

353
00:21:30,840 --> 00:21:32,800
首先，这里的建筑
For a start, the architecture

354
00:21:32,800 --> 00:21:35,960
与我在岛上看到的任何其他东西都不同。
is unlike anything else I've seen on the island.

355
00:21:35,960 --> 00:21:40,720
整个地方有一种奇特的机构感。
There's an oddly institutional feel to the whole place.

356
00:21:40,720 --> 00:21:45,840
事实上，海尼什的建造是出于一个单一的目的，
Now, the fact is that Hynish was built with a single purpose in mind,

357
00:21:45,840 --> 00:21:49,000
那就是建造和维护
and that's the construction and maintenance of

358
00:21:49,000 --> 00:21:50,720
斯凯里沃尔灯塔。
Skerryvore lighthouse.

359
00:21:53,360 --> 00:21:56,440
这个村庄由赫布里底信托基金维护。
The village is maintained by the Hebridean Trust.

360
00:21:56,440 --> 00:22:00,760
“莫妮卡·史密斯是致力于保护
'Monica Smith is part of the team dedicated to preserving

361
00:22:00,760 --> 00:22:04,360
“岛屿遗产这一独特部分的团队成员。”
'this unique part of the island's heritage.'

362
00:22:04,360 --> 00:22:07,800
你在这里周围能看到的所有建筑是，
The buildings that you can see all around you here are,

363
00:22:07,800 --> 00:22:09,560
或者曾经是，建造斯凯里沃尔灯塔的
or were, the shore station

364
00:22:09,560 --> 00:22:12,920
岸上工作站。
for the building of Skerryvore lighthouse.

365
00:22:12,920 --> 00:22:15,640
港口建成了，
The harbour was constructed,

366
00:22:15,640 --> 00:22:19,360
营房是工人们的住所，
the barracks building was the accommodation for the workers,

367
00:22:19,360 --> 00:22:23,800
所有各种外围建筑是办公室、洗衣房、
and all the various outer buildings were an office, a laundry,

368
00:22:23,800 --> 00:22:28,680
牛棚、有围墙的花园。
sheds for cattle, walled gardens.

369
00:22:28,680 --> 00:22:30,640
- 所以这个社区… - 有围墙的花园和牛。
- So the community... - Walled gardens and cows.

370
00:22:30,640 --> 00:22:32,280
所以他们有牛奶和新鲜蔬菜？
So they had milk and fresh vegetables?

371
00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:34,360
他们有蔬菜。他们有肉。
They had their vegetables. They had their meat.

372
00:22:34,360 --> 00:22:37,400
所以在这里，在泰里岛上，必须有一个自给自足的社区
So there had to be a self-sufficient community here

373
00:22:37,400 --> 00:22:39,760
然后才能考虑建造……
on Tiree before you could even think about building...

374
00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:42,240
- 基本上，是的。 - …那边的灯塔？ - 是的。
- Basically, yes. - ..the lighthouse out there? - Yes.

375
00:22:42,240 --> 00:22:45,440
还有一个区域，灯塔的周长
There's also an area where the circumference of the lighthouse

376
00:22:45,440 --> 00:22:48,560
被实际在地面上标出，
was actually mapped out on the ground

377
00:22:48,560 --> 00:22:50,760
这样他们就可以在那里用石头工作
so that they could work there with the stone

378
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:54,160
- 并且… - 这样他们可以确保每一层都合适？ - 是的。
- and... - So that they could make sure that each course would fit? - Yes.

379
00:22:54,160 --> 00:22:56,840
以确保尽可能多的工作在运出前
To make sure as much work was done as possible

380
00:22:56,840 --> 00:22:59,560
- 在岸上完成。 - 太神奇了。 - 是的。
- onshore before they shipped it out. - That's amazing. - Yes.

381
00:22:59,560 --> 00:23:02,000
斯凯里沃尔灯塔在某种程度上算是建了两次。
Skerryvore lighthouse was sort of built twice, in a way.

382
00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:04,080
- 嗯，你可以这么说。 - 一次在这里。
- Well, you could say that. - Once here.

383
00:23:04,080 --> 00:23:07,200
- 一层一层地。然后，完全在礁石上组装起来。 - 在岩石上。
- Course by course. And then, totally assembled on the reef. - On the rock.

384
00:23:09,840 --> 00:23:13,440
史蒂文森在岩石上建了一个临时木制平台
Stevenson built a temporary wooden platform on the rock

385
00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:15,840
以容纳海上工作人员。
to accommodate the offshore workforce.

386
00:23:15,840 --> 00:23:20,520
在夏季的几个月里，这是他们吃饭和睡觉的地方。
During the summer months, this is where they ate and slept.

387
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:27,080
有一个故事说，在一次特别恶劣的风暴中，
There was a story that during one particularly bad storm,

388
00:23:27,080 --> 00:23:29,360
当所有人都待在外面时，
when the men were all staying out there,

389
00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:32,280
风暴如此猛烈，海水涌上了
the storm was so fierce and the sea was coming

390
00:23:32,280 --> 00:23:34,520
他们的木制营房，
right over their wooden barracks

391
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:39,760
他们实际上勇敢地用绳索从营房
and they actually braved a rope construction to get from the barracks

392
00:23:39,760 --> 00:23:42,160
爬到岩石上，寻求
onto the rock and get the shelter

393
00:23:42,160 --> 00:23:45,280
仅由最初几层石头提供的庇护。
of just the first few courses of the stone.

394
00:23:45,280 --> 00:23:48,920
- 他们当时一定绝望了。 - 绝对是绝望了，是的。嗯。
- They must've been desperate. - Absolutely desperate, yes. Uh-huh.

395
00:23:50,680 --> 00:23:54,040
艾伦·史蒂文森和他专心致志的的工人们花了
It took Alan Stevenson and his dedicated workforce

396
00:23:54,040 --> 00:23:56,920
近七年时间才建成这座灯塔。
nearly seven years to complete the lighthouse.

397
00:23:56,920 --> 00:24:01,280
但这并不是海尼什基地的终点。
But that wasn't the end of the Hynish base.

398
00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:02,640
他们在后面建了四座
They built the four

399
00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:05,680
灯塔看守人的小屋，
lighthouse-keepers' cottages up the back,

400
00:24:05,680 --> 00:24:09,880
还有瞭望塔。家人们会住在这些小屋里
and the watchtower. And the families would live in these cottages

401
00:24:09,880 --> 00:24:13,560
他们用塔楼与灯塔来回 signaling 信号。
and they used the tower to signal back and forward to the lighthouse.

402
00:24:13,560 --> 00:24:16,600
他们有各种旗语信号形式。
They had forms of flag signalling.

403
00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:20,240
又有故事说，可能一位灯塔看守人的妻子
There's stories again about maybe a lighthouse-keeper's wife

404
00:24:20,240 --> 00:24:21,800
快要生孩子了，
was about to have a baby,

405
00:24:21,800 --> 00:24:23,720
他们会从岩石上留意观察。
and they'd be watching out from the rock.

406
00:24:23,720 --> 00:24:25,920
如果他看到升起粉红色的旗子，
And if he'd seen the pink flag going up,

407
00:24:25,920 --> 00:24:29,080
他就知道是儿子还是女儿了。
he knew whether he had a son or a daughter.

408
00:24:30,680 --> 00:24:34,960
受莫妮卡关于斯凯里沃尔描述的启发，
Inspired by Monica's account of Skerryvore,

409
00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:38,960
我很想亲眼看看这座灯塔。
I'm keen to see the lighthouse for myself.

410
00:24:38,960 --> 00:24:40,760
泰里岛唯一的山——
Tiree's only mountain -

411
00:24:40,760 --> 00:24:44,280
本海尼什山——就在步行可达之处。
Ben Hynish - is just a walk away.

412
00:24:44,280 --> 00:24:45,840
短暂攀登后，我来到了
A short climb takes me to

413
00:24:45,840 --> 00:24:48,680
一个可以俯瞰开阔大西洋的观景点。
a viewpoint overlooking the open Atlantic.

414
00:24:51,320 --> 00:24:55,680
从这里，我可以勉强辨认出史蒂文森的杰作——
From here, I can just make out Stevenson's masterpiece -

415
00:24:55,680 --> 00:25:01,880
泰里岛西南12英里处海洋中的一个微小斑点。
a tiny speck in the ocean 12 miles southwest of Tiree.

416
00:25:01,880 --> 00:25:06,040
这是一个鼓舞人心的景象，也是一个我一直想去的地方。
It's an inspiring sight and a place I've always wanted to go to.

417
00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:08,880
现在，只要潮汐和天气允许，
And now, tides and weather permitting,

418
00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:10,840
我有机会到达那里。
I've got the chance to get there.

419
00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:17,880
“登上一艘快艇RIB，我遇到了泰里岛的兄弟
'Climbing aboard a fast RIB, I meet up with Tiree brothers

420
00:25:17,880 --> 00:25:20,720
“丹尼尔和马丁·吉莱斯皮。
'Daniel and Martin Gillespie.

421
00:25:20,720 --> 00:25:24,040
“他们加入我的旅程有一个特别的理由。”
'They have a particular reason for joining me on my trip.'

422
00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:28,360
他们是Skerryvore乐队的创始成员，
They are the founder members of the band Skerryvore,

423
00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:32,400
乐队以史蒂文森偏远的灯塔命名。
named after Stevenson's remote lighthouse.

424
00:25:32,400 --> 00:25:33,920
为什么叫Skerryvore？
Why Skerryvore?

425
00:25:33,920 --> 00:25:36,800
我们实际上……我们很挣扎。我们没有名字……
We actually... We struggled. We didn't have a name for...

426
00:25:36,800 --> 00:25:40,080
我们以乐队形式演出了，我不知道，一年，一年半，
We played as a band for, I don't know, a year, a year-and-a-half,

427
00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:41,880
我们根本没有名字。
and we didn't have a name at all.

428
00:25:41,880 --> 00:25:44,720
人们叫我们吉莱斯皮男孩之类的。
People were calling us the Gillespie Boys and things like this.

429
00:25:44,720 --> 00:25:48,280
实际上是Skipinnish乐队的安格斯·麦克法尔——另一个乐队——
And it was actually Angus MacPhail from Skipinnish - another band -

430
00:25:48,280 --> 00:25:51,200
建议乐队取名为Skerryvore……
suggested about calling the band Skerryvore...

431
00:25:51,200 --> 00:25:53,920
- 是的。 - …以那座灯塔命名，
- Right. - ..after the lighthouse,

432
00:25:53,920 --> 00:25:56,560
我们似乎都很快接受了
which we all seemed to take to pretty quickly

433
00:25:56,560 --> 00:25:59,680
并且喜欢这个主意，而且它显然与泰里岛有联系，
and liked the idea of it, and obviously it had links to Tiree,

434
00:25:59,680 --> 00:26:01,800
乐队是在那里起步的。
where the band had started.

435
00:26:01,800 --> 00:26:05,280
所以这对我们来说很合适。而且，呃，
So it fitted in well for us. And, er,

436
00:26:05,280 --> 00:26:07,840
这是一个相当宏伟的地方，我们即将看到。
it's quite an epic place, as we're going to see.

437
00:26:07,840 --> 00:26:10,760
在泰里岛长大，我们非常幸运——
Growing up in Tiree, we were very fortunate -

438
00:26:10,760 --> 00:26:13,640
我们俩都学了手风琴和风笛。
we both got taught accordion and bagpipes.

439
00:26:13,640 --> 00:26:15,640
非常非常幸运有人们
Very, very lucky to have people

440
00:26:15,640 --> 00:26:18,520
愿意免费付出他们的时间
that were willing to give their time for free

441
00:26:18,520 --> 00:26:20,000
不仅教我们
and teach not only us

442
00:26:20,000 --> 00:26:23,600
还教岛上的一大批孩子。
but a whole host of kids coming through in the island.

443
00:26:23,600 --> 00:26:25,040
手风琴和风笛
And accordion and bagpipes

444
00:26:25,040 --> 00:26:27,920
是岛上最主要的乐器。
are predominantly the main instruments on the island.

445
00:26:27,920 --> 00:26:32,800
马丁，你能告诉我你要为我们演奏的那首歌吗？
Can you tell me, Martin, about the song you're going to play for us?

446
00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:37,320
好的，这是我为我们同名专辑《Skerryvore》写的一首曲子。
Yeah, it was a piece I wrote from our self-titled album Skerryvore.

447
00:26:37,320 --> 00:26:39,400
这首歌叫Gairm A'Chauin，
The song is called Gairm A'Chauin,

448
00:26:39,400 --> 00:26:41,720
翻译过来是“大海的呼唤”。
which translates as "call of the sea".

449
00:26:41,720 --> 00:26:43,760
- 大海的呼唤？ - 是的。 - 好的。
- The call of the sea? - Yeah. - Right.

450
00:26:43,760 --> 00:26:45,400
什么是大海的呼唤？
What is the call of the sea?

451
00:26:46,600 --> 00:26:49,040
我认为它是……我认为它是一首曲子……
I think it's... I think it's a tune...

452
00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:50,960
这是一首相当有力量的曲子。
It's quite a powerful piece.

453
00:26:50,960 --> 00:26:53,680
一首开始相当缓慢的乐曲。
A piece of music that starts quite slow.

454
00:26:53,680 --> 00:26:55,560
它很有氛围感，但随后它展现出
It's atmospheric but then it kicks in

455
00:26:55,560 --> 00:26:57,760
大海可以有多么强大的力量。
just how powerful the sea can be.

456
00:26:57,760 --> 00:27:00,400
我们可能到了斯凯里沃尔就会看到。
As we're probably going to see as we get to Skerryvore.

457
00:27:00,400 --> 00:27:04,000
Skerryvore乐队的Gairm A'Chauin
Gairm A'Chauin by Skerryvore

458
00:27:06,360 --> 00:27:10,360
在北太平洋的涌浪中颠簸了两小时后，
After two hours of bouncing around in North Atlantic swell,

459
00:27:10,360 --> 00:27:12,640
我们终于接近了目的地。
we finally approach our destination.

460
00:27:12,640 --> 00:27:16,440
当我想到灯塔时，我就会想到斯凯里沃尔。
When I think of a lighthouse, I think of Skerryvore.

461
00:27:16,440 --> 00:27:18,600
它拥有经典的形状
It's got the classic shape

462
00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:22,600
是海中孤独的哨兵。
and is the archetypal lonely sentinel in the sea.

463
00:27:30,560 --> 00:27:35,520
壮观的地理位置和乐队萦绕心头的音乐让我
The spectacular location and the band's haunting music cause me

464
00:27:35,520 --> 00:27:38,240
反思我旅程中至今访问过的
to reflect on all the island stepping stones

465
00:27:38,240 --> 00:27:40,320
所有作为踏脚石的岛屿，
I've visited on my journey so far,

466
00:27:40,320 --> 00:27:42,520
从奥克尼的北罗纳德赛岛，
from North Ronaldsay in Orkney,

467
00:27:42,520 --> 00:27:45,640
到西部的巴拉岛，石板群岛，
to Barra in the west, the Slate Islands,

468
00:27:45,640 --> 00:27:48,960
马尔岛，以及南部的朱拉岛和吉厄岛。
Mull, and on to Jura and Gigha in the south.

469
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:52,440
所有这些岛屿既被环绕它们的海洋
All of these islands are both united

470
00:27:52,440 --> 00:27:56,720
团结在一起，又深受其影响，
and profoundly influenced by the seas that surround them,

471
00:27:56,720 --> 00:28:01,400
但每一个都不同，都有自己独特的故事要讲述。
but each one is different with a unique story to tell.

472
00:28:01,400 --> 00:28:02,520
尽管科尔岛
And even though Coll

473
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:04,520
和泰里岛组成一对，
and Tiree form a pair,

474
00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:08,520
它们远非完全相同的双胞胎。
they are far from being identical twins.

475
00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:16,280
乐队演奏着
With the band playing

476
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:19,520
斯凯里沃尔灯塔作为背景，
and the Skerryvore lighthouse in the background,

477
00:28:19,520 --> 00:28:24,600
我们距离泰里岛12英里，距离苏格兰大陆以西50英里，
we're 12 miles from Tiree and 50 miles west of the Scottish mainland,

478
00:28:24,600 --> 00:28:27,720
我想不出有比这里更好的地方来结束
and I can't think of a better place to end

479
00:28:27,720 --> 00:28:31,000
这次苏格兰群岛的盛大之旅了。
this grand tour of the Scottish islands.

480
00:28:31,000 --> 00:28:34,880
Skerryvore乐队的Gairm A'Chauin
Gairm A'Chauin by Skerryvore