1 00:00:07,320 --> 00:00:11,000 苏格兰西海岸的岛屿不仅风光旖旎 The islands of the West Coast of Scotland are not just beautiful, 2 00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:13,560 更拥有惊人的多样性 they are incredibly varied. 3 00:00:13,560 --> 00:00:16,000 当你搭乘渡轮穿梭其间 Hop on a ferry from one to the other 4 00:00:16,000 --> 00:00:18,800 仿佛跨越国境般充满新奇 and it's like travelling to another country. 5 00:00:21,480 --> 00:00:23,840 尽管我此行探访的岛屿 And while the islands I'm travelling to 6 00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:26,280 风貌截然不同 are very different in character, 7 00:00:26,280 --> 00:00:29,040 却都散发着独特魅力—— they each have their own allure — 8 00:00:29,040 --> 00:00:32,560 那种关于避世隐居的浪漫憧憬 the romantic idea of escape and sanctuary. 9 00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:39,720 数百年来 苏格兰岛屿的魔力 For centuries, the magic of the Scottish islands 10 00:00:39,720 --> 00:00:42,280 始终吸引着旅人奔赴至此 has drawn travellers to these shores. 11 00:00:45,240 --> 00:00:48,480 我将探索散布在海岸线周边的 'I'm exploring the remote and fascinating places 12 00:00:48,480 --> 00:00:50,200 偏远而迷人的岛屿…… 'scattered around our coastline...' 13 00:00:50,200 --> 00:00:51,600 能搭个便车吗？ Any chance of a lift? 14 00:00:51,600 --> 00:00:55,160 并邂逅以岛为家的人们 '..and meeting the people who call these islands home.' 15 00:00:55,160 --> 00:00:56,760 抓紧帽子坐稳了！ Hold on to your hats! 16 00:00:56,760 --> 00:01:02,080 此次探访的岛屿对比鲜明令人惊叹—— This time, the islands I'm visiting are striking in their contrast — 17 00:01:02,080 --> 00:01:04,680 从草木葱茏的吉拉岛 from the lush and fertile Gigha 18 00:01:04,680 --> 00:01:07,040 到荒凉粗犷的朱拉岛 to the rugged wilderness of Jura. 19 00:01:07,040 --> 00:01:09,720 这两座岛屿都已成为 Both have become destinations for people 20 00:01:09,720 --> 00:01:12,640 追寻崭新岛居生活人们的目的地 who are looking for a new island life. 21 00:01:23,320 --> 00:01:26,480 我的苏格兰西海岸宏伟之旅 My grand tour down the West Coast of Scotland 22 00:01:26,480 --> 00:01:28,080 将从扬帆起航开始 sees me set sail 23 00:01:28,080 --> 00:01:32,360 前往常被忽视的内赫布里底群岛 for the often overlooked islands of the Inner Hebrides. 24 00:01:32,360 --> 00:01:35,680 首站是美丽的吉拉岛 My first stop is the beautiful island of Gigha, 25 00:01:35,680 --> 00:01:38,400 之后我将前往朱拉岛 and from there, I'll be heading for Jura 26 00:01:38,400 --> 00:01:39,880 并尝试航行穿越 and attempting to navigate 27 00:01:39,880 --> 00:01:42,920 恶名昭彰的科里弗雷肯漩涡水域 the infamous waters of the Corryvreckan 28 00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:45,680 再攀登著名的帕普斯山 before scaling the famous Paps. 29 00:01:46,760 --> 00:01:49,360 我的旅程从短途渡轮开始 My journey starts with a short ferry crossing 30 00:01:49,360 --> 00:01:50,400 前往小巧的吉拉岛 to tiny Gigha. 31 00:01:51,760 --> 00:01:54,280 这里留有维京人与圣徒的足迹 It's a place of Vikings and saints, 32 00:01:54,280 --> 00:01:58,400 因土壤肥沃气候宜人 and because of its fertile soils and fair climate, 33 00:01:58,400 --> 00:02:01,520 曾被誉为"上帝之岛" it was once known as "God's Island." 34 00:02:03,520 --> 00:02:07,000 吉拉是座魅力非凡且独具风情的岛屿 Gigha is a charming island with a unique character. 35 00:02:08,240 --> 00:02:11,800 1773年 这位游历极广的威尔士自然学家 In 1773, this was a port of call 36 00:02:11,800 --> 00:02:16,200 托马斯·彭南特曾在此驻足 for the extremely well-travelled Welsh naturalist Thomas Pennant. 37 00:02:19,240 --> 00:02:23,040 彭南特肩负着报道与启蒙的使命—— Pennant was on a mission to report and inform — 38 00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:25,320 他认为当时大多数英国人 he believed that most people in Britain 39 00:02:25,320 --> 00:02:29,760 对异国的了解远胜于本国 knew more about foreign countries than they did about their own. 40 00:02:29,760 --> 00:02:33,960 为扭转此现象 他开启了赫布里底之旅 So to remedy this, he embarked on a Hebridean voyage. 41 00:02:37,320 --> 00:02:41,000 他在日记中写道——"登陆吉拉—— In his journal, he wrote — "Land on Gigha — 42 00:02:41,000 --> 00:02:45,000 此岛长约六英里 宽一英里 "an island about six miles long and one broad. 43 00:02:45,000 --> 00:02:47,080 作为赫布里底群岛最东端的岛屿 "The most eastern of the Hebrides, 44 00:02:47,080 --> 00:02:51,440 拥有纯净细腻的广阔沙床 "with its vast bed of most pure and fine sand. 45 00:02:51,440 --> 00:02:54,880 岩石 牧场与耕地交错分布 "A mixture of rock, pasture and arable land 46 00:02:54,880 --> 00:02:56,800 不见巍峨山峦" "with no high hills." 47 00:02:59,360 --> 00:03:01,200 他还注意到另一项 He also observed something else 48 00:03:01,200 --> 00:03:04,600 罕现于苏格兰岛屿的特质 that is not often said about a Scottish island. 49 00:03:04,600 --> 00:03:06,800 "此地天气极佳" "The weather is extremely fine." 50 00:03:07,920 --> 00:03:10,280 没错——确实如此！ And it's true — it is! 51 00:03:10,280 --> 00:03:13,640 细沙海湾与温润海风交织 What with its sandy bays and balmy sea air, 52 00:03:13,640 --> 00:03:16,840 恍若热带秘境 at times, it seems almost tropical. 53 00:03:24,600 --> 00:03:26,960 "吉拉"虽意为"上帝之岛" "Gigha" might mean "God's Island", 54 00:03:26,960 --> 00:03:31,520 但这片世外桃源并非上帝所创 but God didn't create this Arcadian paradise. 55 00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:36,040 眼前一切皆由凡人之手塑造 Everything that you see here is the work of mortal human hands, 56 00:03:36,040 --> 00:03:38,120 源于一位笃信安眠不仅是梦 inspired by the vision of a man 57 00:03:38,120 --> 00:03:40,600 之人的宏伟愿景 who believed that a good night's rest 58 00:03:40,600 --> 00:03:42,680 之人的宏伟愿景 was more than just a dream. 59 00:03:46,680 --> 00:03:50,760 詹姆斯·霍利克上校爵士是庞大帝国的继承人 Colonel Sir James Horlick was heir to the vast empire 60 00:03:50,760 --> 00:03:55,480 其家族凭借世界驰名的麦芽饮品霍利克发家 that was built on the world's most famous malted drink — Horlick's. 61 00:03:56,760 --> 00:04:00,760 于霍利克上校而言 睡眠是巨额财富的基石 For Colonel Horlick, sleep was the basis of a vast fortune. 62 00:04:02,040 --> 00:04:05,760 他耗资数百万买下这座岛 And with the millions he amassed, he bought this island 63 00:04:05,760 --> 00:04:10,280 在阿哈摩尔打造出这片瑰丽花园 and set about creating these beautiful gardens at Achamore. 64 00:04:11,560 --> 00:04:14,480 我前来拜访园艺师海伦·麦克布雷蒂 'I've come to meet one of its horticulturalists, 65 00:04:14,480 --> 00:04:18,000 探寻他选择吉拉的缘由 'Helen McBrearty, to find out why he chose Gigha.' 66 00:04:19,200 --> 00:04:22,440 海伦 阿哈摩尔花园实在令人惊叹—— Helen, Achamore Gardens is really quite fantastic — 67 00:04:22,440 --> 00:04:25,400 仿佛置身亚热带雨林 I feel as if I'm in a sub-tropical forest here. 68 00:04:25,400 --> 00:04:26,480 我们非常幸运 We're very lucky here. 69 00:04:26,480 --> 00:04:29,280 墨西哥湾暖流调节着当地气候 We've got the Gulf Stream that influences our weather, 70 00:04:29,280 --> 00:04:31,760 使得这里非常温暖 which means that it's very mild. 71 00:04:31,760 --> 00:04:34,800 霍利克上校于40年代来此 Colonel Horlick came here in the '40s, 72 00:04:34,800 --> 00:04:37,320 -正是看中这里的气候 -没错 - specifically because of the climate. - Right. 73 00:04:37,320 --> 00:04:39,640 他是狂热的植物收藏家 He was an avid collector of plants 74 00:04:39,640 --> 00:04:41,840 希望为藏品寻找繁茂生长之地 and he wanted somewhere for them to thrive 75 00:04:41,840 --> 00:04:43,280 最终选择了这里 and this was the place he chose. 76 00:04:45,640 --> 00:04:48,720 这位新岛主不仅改造了花园—— 'The new laird didn't just transform these gardens — 77 00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:52,520 更运用丰富的商业经验 'Horlick also used his considerable business experience 78 00:04:52,520 --> 00:04:55,080 推动岛屿经济发展 'to develop the island's economy. 79 00:04:55,080 --> 00:04:58,120 众多访客包括王室成员 'And many visitors, including royalty, 80 00:04:58,120 --> 00:05:01,240 皆惊叹于他的创举 'came to marvel at what he created here.' 81 00:05:01,240 --> 00:05:04,720 -这里很美吧 -是啊 -香气也很迷人 - Beautiful in here, isn't it? - Yeah. - Lovely aroma, too. 82 00:05:04,720 --> 00:05:07,600 这处围墙花园最初用途是什么？ Now, what would this garden have been used for originally, 83 00:05:07,600 --> 00:05:08,840 这处围墙花园最初用途是什么？ the walled part here? 84 00:05:08,840 --> 00:05:10,440 这两英亩的围墙花园 The walled garden, the two acres, 85 00:05:10,440 --> 00:05:13,480 曾用于种植蔬菜和水果 were used for vegetable growing and fruit. 86 00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:16,480 吉拉曾以优质果蔬闻名 Gigha used to be famous for the quality of its fruit and veg. 87 00:05:16,480 --> 00:05:19,040 想必能实现庄园自给自足吧 So the house would have been self-sufficient, presumably. 88 00:05:19,040 --> 00:05:20,440 确实如此 It would have had to have been, 89 00:05:20,440 --> 00:05:22,760 过去若不自耕便无粮可食 yeah — if they didn't grow it, they didn't eat it. 90 00:05:25,440 --> 00:05:29,720 詹姆斯·霍利克上校爵士于1972年逝世 Colonel Sir James Horlick died in 1972 91 00:05:29,720 --> 00:05:31,800 长眠于吉拉岛 and was laid to rest on Gigha. 92 00:05:35,160 --> 00:05:37,400 追随他的园艺足迹 'Following in his horticultural footsteps, 93 00:05:37,400 --> 00:05:39,880 海伦从英格兰来到此地 'Helen came here from England. 94 00:05:39,880 --> 00:05:42,080 她如今协助维护花园 'She now helps to maintain the gardens 95 00:05:42,080 --> 00:05:44,440 让访客能欣赏到 'where visitors can enjoy the results 96 00:05:44,440 --> 00:05:48,280 这份激情与热忱结出的硕果 'of one man's energy and enthusiasm.' 97 00:05:48,280 --> 00:05:49,880 他对植物怀揣赤诚 He was just passionate about plants 98 00:05:49,880 --> 00:05:52,200 对岛屿与花园倾注热爱 and passionate about the island and the gardens 99 00:05:52,200 --> 00:05:54,560 才有了今日的景象 and created what we have today. 100 00:05:54,560 --> 00:05:56,600 此后的岁月里 In the years following, 101 00:05:56,600 --> 00:06:01,720 岛屿数次易主至不在场的地主手中 the island fell into the hands of a series of absentee landlords. 102 00:06:01,720 --> 00:06:04,040 他们都不具备霍利克上校 They didn't have the same commitment 103 00:06:04,040 --> 00:06:06,360 对吉拉的那份担当 that Colonel Horlick had shown to Gigha. 104 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:10,840 转机直到近年才出现 It was only fairly recently that things changed. 105 00:06:12,040 --> 00:06:13,520 大约十年前 About ten years ago, 106 00:06:13,520 --> 00:06:16,360 吉拉岛上演了一场静默革命 there was a quiet revolution here on Gigha. 107 00:06:16,360 --> 00:06:18,560 因对地主失望透顶 Disillusioned with the landlords, 108 00:06:18,560 --> 00:06:20,960 当地居民组建了社区信托 local people formed a community trust 109 00:06:20,960 --> 00:06:25,680 于2002年趁岛屿出售时集体购岛 and bought the island when it came on the market in 2002. 110 00:06:25,680 --> 00:06:28,680 自此这里焕发出蓬勃生机 And since then, the place has flourished. 111 00:06:28,680 --> 00:06:32,560 本土化管理似乎逆转了 Local control, it seems, has reversed the age-old problem 112 00:06:32,560 --> 00:06:34,680 人口流失的百年难题 of population decline 113 00:06:34,680 --> 00:06:36,320 不仅吸引了企业入驻 and attracted businesses 114 00:06:36,320 --> 00:06:37,760 更吸引了家庭迁居岛上 and families to the island. 115 00:06:40,200 --> 00:06:42,240 我将拜访一位 And I'm going to meet one islander 116 00:06:42,240 --> 00:06:45,120 在社区购岛后迁居至此的岛民—— who came here after the community buyout — 117 00:06:45,120 --> 00:06:47,800 奶牛农场主约翰·恩肖 dairy farmer John Earnshaw, 118 00:06:47,800 --> 00:06:50,600 他正庆祝在吉拉生活的第十年 who is now celebrating ten years on Gigha. 119 00:06:51,600 --> 00:06:54,920 我来自斯基普顿的加格雷夫 I'm originally from Gargrave, Skipton. 120 00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:56,400 是约克郡吗？ Is that Yorkshire? 121 00:06:56,400 --> 00:06:58,280 是约克郡——不过不在英格兰 It is — it's not England. 122 00:06:58,280 --> 00:06:59,960 对！好吧 Right! OK. 123 00:07:01,600 --> 00:07:03,000 为何选择吉拉岛？ Why did you choose Gigha? 124 00:07:03,000 --> 00:07:07,000 说不清是我们选择了吉拉 还是机缘使然 I don't know whether we chose Gigha or it just happened. 125 00:07:07,000 --> 00:07:09,560 -或是吉拉选择了你们？ -是命运的安排 - Or Gigha chose you? - Fate. 126 00:07:09,560 --> 00:07:12,400 我们带着两个年幼的孩子而来 We came with two young children 127 00:07:12,400 --> 00:07:15,160 认为这里充满希望 and we thought there was a future. 128 00:07:15,160 --> 00:07:17,880 我们到此尝试新生活 We came and we gave it a shot 129 00:07:17,880 --> 00:07:20,320 可以说一切顺利 and I would say it's been OK for us. 130 00:07:20,320 --> 00:07:22,720 与约克郡相比 岛居生活 And what's it like, living on an island, 131 00:07:22,720 --> 00:07:25,040 是怎样的体验？ compared to living in Yorkshire? 132 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:28,600 天差地别 这里要应对不同的挑战 Totally different. It's different challenges 133 00:07:28,600 --> 00:07:32,000 克服不同的难题 and different problems to get over. 134 00:07:32,000 --> 00:07:36,560 必须与其他农场主协同合作 You have to either work together with the other farmers 135 00:07:36,560 --> 00:07:37,800 否则寸步难行 or you're stuck. 136 00:07:39,040 --> 00:07:42,960 约翰延续着吉拉岛悠久的乳业传统 John is continuing a long tradition of dairy farming on Gigha. 137 00:07:44,000 --> 00:07:47,720 但该岛能成为重要牛奶产地 But the island's position as a significant milk producer 138 00:07:47,720 --> 00:07:52,240 很大程度上归功于詹姆斯·霍利克爵士 is due in no small part to the work of Sir James Horlick. 139 00:07:52,240 --> 00:07:56,360 作为岛主 他推动了本地牛奶生产方式的现代化 As laird, he set about modernising the way that milk was produced here. 140 00:07:57,840 --> 00:08:00,840 当然 霍利克家族本就关注牛奶产业 Of course, the Horlicks would have had an interest in milk, anyway, 141 00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:02,760 毕竟主营乳基饮品！ with their milk-based drink! 142 00:08:02,760 --> 00:08:07,440 没错——我认为是他们推动吉拉 Yes — I think they were the driving force for Gigha 143 00:08:07,440 --> 00:08:11,800 发展乳业并改善土地 into dairy and the improvement of the land. 144 00:08:11,800 --> 00:08:15,040 这里曾是高产之地 It was a tremendously productive place. 145 00:08:15,040 --> 00:08:17,040 所以说吉拉与乳业密不可分？ So Gigha and dairy go together, do they? 146 00:08:17,040 --> 00:08:18,640 我认为是的 I would think so, yes. 147 00:08:18,640 --> 00:08:23,280 维持牛奶产量对吉拉无疑至关重要 And keeping that milk production up is certainly important for Gigha, 148 00:08:23,280 --> 00:08:24,760 至少我这么认为 I think, anyway. 149 00:08:26,800 --> 00:08:30,720 吉拉产出的牛奶大多运往大陆制作奶酪 Most of the milk produced on Gigha goes to the mainland to make cheese, 150 00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:34,760 下次您享用苏格兰切达奶酪时 so the next time you're enjoying a slice of Scottish cheddar, 151 00:08:34,760 --> 00:08:38,000 或许其中乳汁正来自 you can ponder that the milk might have come from cows 152 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:40,520 这片沃土滋养的牛群 fed on these fertile slopes, 153 00:08:40,520 --> 00:08:44,040 或许就出自约翰百头规模的牧场 and perhaps from one of John's 100-strong herd. 154 00:08:44,040 --> 00:08:45,080 来吧 姑娘们 Come on, girls. 155 00:08:46,680 --> 00:08:48,720 -它们都有名字 -真的吗？ - They all have names. - Really? 156 00:08:48,720 --> 00:08:50,640 那是艾娜 正往下走 There's Ina, just going down. 157 00:08:50,640 --> 00:08:56,480 还有菲伊 柯斯蒂 雪球 玫瑰花蕾…… There's Faye, Kirsty, Snowball, Rosebud... 158 00:08:58,200 --> 00:08:59,880 继续我的旅程 Continuing my journey, 159 00:08:59,880 --> 00:09:03,200 我将告别温润葱郁的吉拉岛 I'm leaving the balmy and verdant Gigha behind. 160 00:09:04,840 --> 00:09:09,000 向北短暂航行至朱拉岛 I'm making the short journey north to the island of Jura. 161 00:09:09,000 --> 00:09:12,560 在此处 景象截然不同 And here, I find a very different landscape. 162 00:09:12,560 --> 00:09:15,720 朱拉岛更大 更显荒凉 Jura is bigger, much more rugged 163 00:09:15,720 --> 00:09:19,720 广阔地域无人居住 and huge tracts of the island are uninhabited. 164 00:09:19,720 --> 00:09:22,520 142平方英里的土地 Its 142 square miles 165 00:09:22,520 --> 00:09:24,800 仅生活着200人 is home to just 200 people, 166 00:09:24,800 --> 00:09:29,280 多数聚居在岛上唯一村庄克雷格豪斯 and most of them live in the only village on the island, Craighouse. 167 00:09:29,280 --> 00:09:34,400 早期旅行作家托马斯·彭南特也曾到访此地 The early travel writer Thomas Pennant also visited here 168 00:09:34,400 --> 00:09:37,960 他敏锐察觉到与吉拉的差异 and the contrast with Gigha was not lost on him. 169 00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:40,560 他将朱拉描述为 He described Jura as, 170 00:09:40,560 --> 00:09:44,880 "赫布里底群岛最荒凉之地 主要由巍峨山脉构成 "The most rugged of the Hebrides, composed chiefly of vast mountains, 171 00:09:44,880 --> 00:09:48,480 "山体裸露 无法耕作" "naked, and without the possibility of cultivation." 172 00:09:49,520 --> 00:09:52,040 彭南特描绘过简陋棚屋 Pennant sketched the rudimentary shelters 173 00:09:52,040 --> 00:09:54,880 供夏季牧羊人使用 used by goat-herds in the summer months. 174 00:09:54,880 --> 00:09:58,120 他记述了当地人如何为一杯威士忌 He remarked upon how the people risked starvation 175 00:09:58,120 --> 00:09:59,840 甘冒饥荒风险—— for the benefits of a dram — 176 00:09:59,840 --> 00:10:03,360 将本应制作面包的谷物 they diverted grain which should have gone to make bread 177 00:10:03,360 --> 00:10:06,160 转而酿造挚爱的烈酒 to produce the spirit they adored. 178 00:10:08,440 --> 00:10:12,120 岛民本无力承担威士忌这等奢侈品 The islanders could ill afford the luxury of whisky. 179 00:10:12,120 --> 00:10:14,760 但谁又能责怪他们从生命之水 But who could blame them seeking a little cheer 180 00:10:14,760 --> 00:10:16,480 寻求些许欢愉呢？ from the water of life? 181 00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:19,520 因为他们的生活艰难得超乎想象 Because their lives were unimaginably hard. 182 00:10:24,680 --> 00:10:26,560 居住在朱拉的人们 The people living on Jura 183 00:10:26,560 --> 00:10:28,960 必须坚韧不拔且自给自足 had to be resilient and self-sufficient. 184 00:10:30,800 --> 00:10:35,160 这意味着要充分开发利用岛屿的自然资源 And that meant making the most of the island's natural resources. 185 00:10:37,840 --> 00:10:41,040 如今生活或许轻松些 但对一些人而言 Life may be easier today, but for some people, 186 00:10:41,040 --> 00:10:43,800 有机会过上更简朴的生活 the opportunity to live a simpler existence 187 00:10:43,800 --> 00:10:45,720 正是朱拉的魅力所在 is part of the appeal of Jura. 188 00:10:49,600 --> 00:10:51,880 你现在是要把草皮掀开 So, what, you're just lifting the turf off just now, 189 00:10:51,880 --> 00:10:53,680 准备取出泥炭吗？ going to lift the turf off the peat? 190 00:10:53,680 --> 00:10:55,680 -对的 -所以得先清理表层 - That's right, aye. - So you have to get rid of that 191 00:10:55,680 --> 00:10:58,640 -才能深入泥炭层？ -没错 - before you start getting into the bank? - That's right, aye. 192 00:10:58,640 --> 00:11:01,360 尼尔·卡梅伦并非本地出生 'Neil Cameron wasn't born here, 193 00:11:01,360 --> 00:11:04,680 但自从14年前来到朱拉 'but since arriving on Jura 14 years ago, 194 00:11:04,680 --> 00:11:08,440 他自学掌握了这项传统技艺 'he's taught himself one of the traditional skills 195 00:11:08,440 --> 00:11:11,760 '数百年来为岛民抵御严寒湿气 'which kept islanders warm and dry for centuries.' 196 00:11:11,760 --> 00:11:14,440 现在岛上还有很多人切割泥炭吗 尼尔？ Do many people still cut peats on the island then, Neil? 197 00:11:14,440 --> 00:11:16,240 我想今年大概有…… I think, this year, there's... 198 00:11:17,920 --> 00:11:19,640 -……四个人 -只有四个人？ - ..four. - Just four of you? 199 00:11:19,640 --> 00:11:23,680 -200人中只有四个？太少了 -确实不多 - From a population of 200? That's not many. - Not many. 200 00:11:23,680 --> 00:11:25,920 我们离主干道很近 We're pretty close to the road, the main road, here, 201 00:11:25,920 --> 00:11:28,520 常收到人们鼓励的喇叭声 so I get a toot of encouragement from a lot of people. 202 00:11:28,520 --> 00:11:30,880 -确实如此 -大家乐意看到有人 - They do, yeah. - People like to see someone 203 00:11:30,880 --> 00:11:33,040 -延续传统…… -也许吧 - carrying out the traditional... - Perhaps, aye. 204 00:11:33,040 --> 00:11:36,560 -延续切割泥炭的传统生活方式 -是的 - ..the traditional peat-cutting way of life. - Yeah. 205 00:11:36,560 --> 00:11:38,200 守护传统 Maintaining the traditions. 206 00:11:43,080 --> 00:11:45,160 他们耐心地 有条不紊地 Patiently, methodically, 207 00:11:45,160 --> 00:11:48,080 切割泥炭 堆积泥炭 they cut the peat, they pile the peat, 208 00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:50,760 运走泥炭 堆叠晾干 they carry it away, they stack it up to dry, 209 00:11:50,760 --> 00:11:52,320 晾干后作为燃料燃烧 to dry and burn for fuel. 210 00:11:56,640 --> 00:11:59,200 我特别想亲自试试 I'm actually quite desperate to have a shot at this myself. 211 00:11:59,200 --> 00:12:02,000 -能用你的泥炭铲试试吗？ -好啊 -好 - Can I have a go with your peat cutter? - Yeah. - Right. 212 00:12:04,480 --> 00:12:05,840 我直接从这里推进去…… So, I just push in here... 213 00:12:05,840 --> 00:12:08,520 保持相同角度 否则 Just follow the same angle, cos otherwise, 214 00:12:08,520 --> 00:12:10,360 会切出巨大块状 you'll end up with an enormous thing. 215 00:12:10,360 --> 00:12:13,560 -很容易就切进去了 -是的 - Goes through pretty easily, doesn't it? - Yeah. 216 00:12:13,560 --> 00:12:15,760 现在轻轻扭转 Now give it a little twist 217 00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:18,120 往你方向抬——就这样 up towards you — that's it. 218 00:12:18,120 --> 00:12:20,840 我的第一块泥炭——看 My first peat cut — look. 219 00:12:22,240 --> 00:12:24,800 -给你 -第一块草皮 -没错 - There you are. - First piece of turf. - That's right. 220 00:12:24,800 --> 00:12:26,920 -然后重复操作 -重复即可 - And then just repeat. - Repeat that. 221 00:12:26,920 --> 00:12:31,360 你觉得乐趣之一在于不必花费太多钱吗？ Do you think one of the pleasures, is the fact that you don't have to spend a lot of money? 222 00:12:31,360 --> 00:12:33,440 -我觉得有责任这么做 -觉得有责任？ - I feel obliged to do it. - You feel obliged? 223 00:12:33,440 --> 00:12:35,560 嗯——只为让屋子暖和 Well — just to keep the house warm. 224 00:12:35,560 --> 00:12:39,600 是的 我也享受做这类事情 Yeah, I mean, I enjoy doing this sort of thing as well. 225 00:12:39,600 --> 00:12:42,960 但若家门口就有这些资源 But if you've got all this at your doorstep, 226 00:12:42,960 --> 00:12:47,000 何必给能源公司送巨额支票？ why give the energy companies a big, fat cheque? 227 00:12:47,000 --> 00:12:48,440 自给自足的感觉…… If you do things for yourself... 228 00:12:50,000 --> 00:12:51,400 很美好 不是吗？ ..it's nice, isn't it? 229 00:12:51,400 --> 00:12:56,400 -自制的东西更好吧？我也这么认为 -完全正确 - Home-made is better, eh? I think so. - You're absolutely right. 230 00:12:56,400 --> 00:12:58,280 还有自制的温暖 And home-made heat. 231 00:12:58,280 --> 00:13:01,480 赫布里底群岛的独特气息来自泥炭—— The unique scent of the Hebrides is peat — 232 00:13:01,480 --> 00:13:03,560 贫瘠土地生长出燃料 the barren earth grows fuel 233 00:13:03,560 --> 00:13:06,120 切割泥炭成为家庭活动 and cutting it becomes a family occupation, 234 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:07,480 近乎一种仪式 almost a ritual. 235 00:13:09,080 --> 00:13:11,800 剥离泥炭是男性的专属劳作 Stripping the peat is a masculine prerogative. 236 00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:14,080 女性则负责搬运 The women carry it. 237 00:13:16,640 --> 00:13:18,400 很惬意 不是吗？ It's quite pleasing, isn't it? 238 00:13:18,400 --> 00:13:22,480 -看着刀切入泥炭 -是啊 - Watching that knife go into the peat. - Aye. 239 00:13:22,480 --> 00:13:25,240 就像切一大块巧克力布朗尼 It's like cutting through a large slice of chocolate brownie. 240 00:13:25,240 --> 00:13:28,480 -这块头真大 -很大吗？ - It's a monster, that. - It's a monster, is it? 241 00:13:28,480 --> 00:13:30,760 但会晾干的 没问题 But it'll dry. It'll get dried. That's fine. 242 00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:34,800 泥炭切割完成后 'After the peat is cut, 243 00:13:34,800 --> 00:13:39,240 需借助风力在草垛中晾干 'it has be dried by the wind in stooks like these, 244 00:13:39,240 --> 00:13:40,720 并定期翻面 'and regularly turned, 245 00:13:40,720 --> 00:13:45,000 最后堆叠运回家中备用 'before being stacked and taken home, ready for burning.' 246 00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:47,240 -会形成节奏感吧？ -是的 - You get into a rhythm, don't you? - Aye. 247 00:13:47,240 --> 00:13:49,560 -还有冥想效果 -嗯 - And meditative too, this. - Mm-hm, mm-hm. 248 00:13:52,360 --> 00:13:56,120 尼尔的主要挑战是保护劳动成果 'Neil's main challenge is protecting his day's work 249 00:13:56,120 --> 00:13:58,680 免受某些好奇的本地居民破坏 'from some of the inquisitive locals — 250 00:13:58,680 --> 00:14:01,760 但他找到了新颖的防护方式 'but he's found a novel way of doing that.' 251 00:14:01,760 --> 00:14:03,440 泥炭层周围 All around the peat bank, 252 00:14:03,440 --> 00:14:06,400 插着木桩并缠绕铁丝 you've got these stakes and wire between them. 253 00:14:06,400 --> 00:14:09,520 随风摆动发出奇特声响 And they're blowing in the wind and making this extraordinary noise. 254 00:14:12,640 --> 00:14:16,560 鹿群会闯入踩踏泥炭 The deer will come in and wander over the peat 255 00:14:16,560 --> 00:14:17,680 弄塌堆垛 and knock the stacks down 256 00:14:17,680 --> 00:14:20,280 若踩过新切割的泥炭 and maybe the freshly-cut peat, if they walk over that, 257 00:14:20,280 --> 00:14:21,840 可能造成破损 they could break them and ruin. 258 00:14:21,840 --> 00:14:23,840 之前发生过——我切割完泥炭 It already happened — I started cutting peat 259 00:14:23,840 --> 00:14:26,560 次日发现鹿群闯入 and then came down the next day and there had been deer in, 260 00:14:26,560 --> 00:14:28,280 就立刻架设了这些 so I got these up, pronto. 261 00:14:28,280 --> 00:14:30,160 -明白了 -虽简陋但管用！ - Right. - It's low-tech, but it works! 262 00:14:30,160 --> 00:14:33,440 看来朱拉岛的泥炭储量 'And it would seem that there's enough peat on Jura 263 00:14:33,440 --> 00:14:36,080 足够尼尔再用多年 'to keep Neil going for a few years yet.' 264 00:14:37,360 --> 00:14:39,760 -取之不尽呢 -确实如此 - You're not going to run out. - No, I don't think so, no. 265 00:14:39,760 --> 00:14:45,000 -还能再用几千年！ -是啊 - You've got...thousands of years left to go! - Aye. 266 00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:50,480 今日工作完成 My day's work is done. 267 00:14:50,480 --> 00:14:53,320 -收工 该喝一杯了 -确实口渴了 - Day's work is done. Time for a pint. - Thirsty, yes. 268 00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:04,320 继续我的旅程 Continuing my journey, 269 00:15:04,320 --> 00:15:06,560 我前往朱拉岛北端 I'm heading up to the north end of Jura 270 00:15:06,560 --> 00:15:09,520 那片数百年来令水手胆寒的水域 to a stretch of water that has struck fear 271 00:15:09,520 --> 00:15:11,880 那片数百年来令水手胆寒的水域 into the heart of sailors for centuries — 272 00:15:11,880 --> 00:15:14,560 恶名昭彰的科里弗雷肯漩涡 the notorious Corryvreckan. 273 00:15:24,240 --> 00:15:28,360 如同航行在沸腾的锅面 It's like sailing across the surface of a boiling cauldron. 274 00:15:33,320 --> 00:15:35,280 能感受到船身承受的力量 And I can feel that force on the boat. 275 00:15:35,280 --> 00:15:37,760 甚至能让船只不停打转 It can actually move the boat round and round in circles, 276 00:15:37,760 --> 00:15:40,680 这种体感非常明显 which, you know, you can feel yourself. 277 00:15:40,680 --> 00:15:44,560 需要强大动力才能在科里弗雷肯徘徊 You need lots of power to be able to hang about the Corryvreckan. 278 00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:49,040 即使经验丰富的当地船夫尼古拉·麦金农 Even an experienced seafarer, like local boatman Nicol MacKinnon, 279 00:15:49,040 --> 00:15:51,920 在这片水域也极为谨慎 is extremely cautious in this stretch of water. 280 00:15:53,160 --> 00:15:56,960 海图标注"无法通航" It's got "unnavigable" on the chart. 281 00:15:56,960 --> 00:15:58,680 标注了"无法通航"？ It's got "unnavigable"? 282 00:15:58,680 --> 00:16:05,520 会出现15到17米高的立波 You'll get massive standing waves, which could be 15, 17 metres high. 283 00:16:05,520 --> 00:16:08,800 会产生旋转涡流 You get circles, you get whirling circles, 284 00:16:08,800 --> 00:16:11,520 直径达50米 right up to 50 metres diameter. 285 00:16:11,520 --> 00:16:14,960 -直径50米的漩涡？你见过？ -见过 - A 50-metre diameter whirlpool? You've seen that? - Yeah, yeah. 286 00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:17,720 中心深度可达三四米 It can be up to three or four metres deep in the middle. 287 00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:21,080 数世纪来肯定夺走不少生命 It must have claimed quite a few lives over the centuries. 288 00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:24,000 早年许多船只在此失事 Yeah, well, there was lots of boats lost years ago 289 00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:26,760 总之绝不能落水 and you certainly don't want to fall in, anyway. 290 00:16:26,760 --> 00:16:28,560 落水会怎样？ What would happen if you did? 291 00:16:28,560 --> 00:16:33,200 早年他们放入带监测装置的假人 I think, years ago, they put in test dummies with monitors on them 292 00:16:33,200 --> 00:16:34,720 观察结果 to see what happened. 293 00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:39,720 下沉500英尺后从四英里外浮起 And they went down 500 feet and came up four miles away. 294 00:16:39,720 --> 00:16:43,960 这条位于朱拉岛北端与斯卡巴岛之间 This dangerous channel between the north end of Jura 295 00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:48,040 的危险水道由水下山脊形成 and the Isle of Scarba is created by an underwater ridge 296 00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:52,880 顶峰距海面仅30米 which rises to a pinnacle 30 metres below the surface. 297 00:16:52,880 --> 00:16:56,760 -前方就是顶峰 看到了吗？ -太神奇了 - There's the pinnacle right in front of us now, see? - I see it — amazing. 298 00:16:56,760 --> 00:17:00,280 可见巨大水道从正中穿过 That shows you the huge, big channel that flows right down the middle. 299 00:17:00,280 --> 00:17:02,000 顶峰在我们下方？ So the pinnacle's beneath us? 300 00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:03,440 是的 现在正下方 Yeah, at the moment, yes. 301 00:17:05,120 --> 00:17:06,240 退潮时 'On an ebb tide, 302 00:17:06,240 --> 00:17:10,120 当大西洋水流回灌水道 'as the water flows back into the channel from the Atlantic, 303 00:17:10,120 --> 00:17:14,320 海水涌过峰顶形成数百漩涡 'hundreds of whirlpools can form as the sea rushes over the pinnacle, 304 00:17:14,320 --> 00:17:17,680 制造出可怕的大涡流 'creating a terrifying maelstrom of water.' 305 00:17:20,240 --> 00:17:22,240 大西洋巨量海水 And you've got that huge volume of the Atlantic 306 00:17:22,240 --> 00:17:24,960 试图通过斯卡巴海峡 trying to get through the Sound of Scarba 307 00:17:24,960 --> 00:17:26,360 撞击峰顶 and it hits that pinnacle. 308 00:17:26,360 --> 00:17:30,280 撞击后只能向上奔涌 It just hits the pinnacle and there's nowhere to go but up. 309 00:17:30,280 --> 00:17:32,920 由此形成奇观 And that's what creates the effect. 310 00:17:32,920 --> 00:17:36,000 这些漩涡曾险些夺走 'And these whirlpools almost claimed the life 311 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:39,640 二十世纪最著名作家的生命 'of one of the 20th century's most famous writers.' 312 00:17:39,640 --> 00:17:40,760 尼古拉 我听说 Now, Nicol, I understand 313 00:17:40,760 --> 00:17:43,000 作家乔治·奥威尔和他的儿子 that the writer George Orwell and his son 314 00:17:43,000 --> 00:17:45,480 曾在此遇险 almost came to grief here. 315 00:17:45,480 --> 00:17:47,400 是的 没错 Yes, that's correct, yeah. 316 00:17:47,400 --> 00:17:53,400 他们试图从朱拉岛横渡至斯卡巴岛 They were trying to pass over from Jura, across to Scarba, 317 00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:56,360 当时正值涨潮 and with the flood tide on, 318 00:17:56,360 --> 00:17:59,520 西向水流过于汹涌 it was going west, it got too rough for them 319 00:17:59,520 --> 00:18:01,920 他们被大浪困住 and they got caught up in some big waves. 320 00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:06,720 奥威尔成为朱拉岛最著名居民 'Orwell became Jura's best-known resident 321 00:18:06,720 --> 00:18:11,920 1946年他寻求岛居避世环境 'when, in 1946, he sought out the isolation of island life 322 00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:15,360 创作反乌托邦未来预言 'to create his dystopian vision of the future, 323 00:18:15,360 --> 00:18:18,320 小说《1984》 'the novel 1984. 324 00:18:18,320 --> 00:18:20,000 写作间隙 'Taking a break from writing, 325 00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:23,680 他尝试驾驶小船穿越 'he attempted to navigate this fearsome stretch of water 326 00:18:23,680 --> 00:18:27,160 这片可怕水域 船上载着三岁儿子 'in a small boat with his three-year-old son.' 327 00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:32,800 -奥威尔曾带儿子试图划船横渡 -是的 - And Orwell was trying to row across here with his son. - Yeah. 328 00:18:32,800 --> 00:18:35,640 -乘敞篷船穿越这里？ -小舢板 - In an open boat, through this? - A small dinghy, yeah. 329 00:18:40,560 --> 00:18:43,680 海浪将小艇冲上岩壁 The waves washed the dinghy right up onto the rock face, 330 00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:47,520 翻转后又卷回海中 turned upside down and washed them back out, 331 00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:50,880 奥威尔父子被扣在船底 with George Orwell and his son trapped underneath the dinghy. 332 00:18:52,480 --> 00:18:53,640 小艇被冲出后 The dinghy got washed out 333 00:18:53,640 --> 00:18:56,160 又被下一波浪冲回 and then got washed back in with the next wave 334 00:18:56,160 --> 00:18:59,200 他们设法抓住船绳 and they managed to catch the rope off the dinghy 335 00:18:59,200 --> 00:19:02,800 拖到岛上这片白色岩壁 and pulled it onto the island, this white rock face up here. 336 00:19:04,680 --> 00:19:08,120 最终被经过的捕虾船救起 'Eventually, they were rescued by a passing lobster boat.' 337 00:19:09,400 --> 00:19:11,440 想想看 若他们未能脱险 You just think, had they not made it, 338 00:19:11,440 --> 00:19:14,000 世界将失去《1984》这部巨著 the world would never have had the book 1984. 339 00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:15,920 没错——若没有那座岛 That's right — if that island wasn't there, 340 00:19:15,920 --> 00:19:18,040 他们会被冲往何处？ where would they have gone to? 341 00:19:18,040 --> 00:19:19,440 -沉入深渊 -是啊 - Down there. - Yeah. 342 00:19:24,960 --> 00:19:28,600 用奥威尔自己的话说 朱拉岛是 For Orwell, Jura was, in his own words, 343 00:19:28,600 --> 00:19:31,080 "极难抵达之地" "a very ungettable place." 344 00:19:31,080 --> 00:19:35,000 这完全符合我下一站目的地的特征 And that's certainly the case for my next destination. 345 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,360 我正前往朱拉西海岸 I'm heading to the west coast of Jura, 346 00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:39,880 被称为"空寂之境" known as the "Empty Quarter". 347 00:19:39,880 --> 00:19:42,520 这无疑是欧洲最荒蛮 This has to be one of the wildest, 348 00:19:42,520 --> 00:19:45,480 最崎岖的海岸线之一 roughest stretches of coastline in Europe. 349 00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:49,160 无垠的苍凉——令人敬畏 It's unremittingly bleak — and awe-inspiring. 350 00:19:52,320 --> 00:19:55,720 因岛西侧多为 Because much of the terrain on this side of the island 351 00:19:55,720 --> 00:19:58,800 难以通行的沼泽与石南丛 consists of often impassable bog and heather, 352 00:19:58,800 --> 00:20:02,040 乘船是最佳抵达方式 the best way to get here is by boat. 353 00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:07,400 我在美丽无人的格伦加里索德尔湾登陆 I'm landing at beautiful — and deserted — Glengarrisdale Bay. 354 00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:14,360 此地已近百年无人居住 No-one's lived here now for almost 100 years, 355 00:20:14,360 --> 00:20:16,960 但仍迎接各类 but it's still a welcoming destination 356 00:20:16,960 --> 00:20:20,240 冒险者的到来 to a variety of adventurous souls. 357 00:20:26,360 --> 00:20:31,240 我来到朱拉岛西部最后运作的农场 I've come to what was the last working croft on this part of Jura. 358 00:20:34,680 --> 00:20:38,240 若想体会朱拉岛旧时社区 And if you want to get a sense of just how remote and isolated 359 00:20:38,240 --> 00:20:41,160 何等与世隔绝 some of the communities on Jura used to be, 360 00:20:41,160 --> 00:20:43,160 此地正是最佳选择 then this is the place to come. 361 00:20:49,680 --> 00:20:51,720 如今这屋子成为山野庇护所 Today, the house is a bothy, 362 00:20:51,720 --> 00:20:55,840 为徒步者 猎鹿人 皮划艇爱好者 providing shelter for walkers, stalkers, kayakers 363 00:20:55,840 --> 00:20:58,920 及各类都市生活逃离者提供栖身之所 and assorted refugees from urban life. 364 00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:01,640 这里设施略显简陋 Well, it's a bit basic in here 365 00:21:01,640 --> 00:21:05,800 但可以想象 燃起炉火 but I can imagine, with a fire going and... 366 00:21:05,800 --> 00:21:09,160 再小酌几杯暖人心脾 maybe a drink or two to warm the cockles of your heart, 367 00:21:09,160 --> 00:21:12,440 这处庇护所会是绝佳居停之所 this bothy would be a really pleasant place to stay. 368 00:21:16,080 --> 00:21:19,240 但今夜我不会在此歇息 But I won't be laying my weary head here tonight, 369 00:21:19,240 --> 00:21:21,760 我要继续前行拜访一对夫妇 I'm pressing on to meet a couple 370 00:21:21,760 --> 00:21:25,320 他们选择在朱拉岛迎接新生活的挑战 who've taken on the challenge of a new life here on Jura. 371 00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:32,160 这里是阿德卢萨庄园 This is Ardlussa House, 372 00:21:32,160 --> 00:21:33,760 安迪·弗莱彻的家 home to Andy Fletcher, 373 00:21:33,760 --> 00:21:35,360 其妻克莱尔 his wife, Claire, 374 00:21:35,360 --> 00:21:37,160 及四个女儿的居所 and their four girls. 375 00:21:38,840 --> 00:21:42,000 克莱尔 你不是朱拉本地人吧？ Now, Claire, you're not a native Jura person, are you? 376 00:21:42,000 --> 00:21:43,840 确实不是 我是外来者 I'm not, no, I'm an incomer. 377 00:21:43,840 --> 00:21:45,640 -来自伦敦 -嗯 - Er, I'm from London originally. - Uh-huh. 378 00:21:45,640 --> 00:21:47,240 "泰晤士河南岸人" "Saaf o' the river." 379 00:21:47,240 --> 00:21:48,680 怎么最终落脚于此？ Right, so how did you end up here? 380 00:21:48,680 --> 00:21:50,960 说来话长 略带浪漫色彩 It's a very long story with a little bit of romance. 381 00:21:50,960 --> 00:21:52,760 我曾从事音乐行业 I used to work for the music industry. 382 00:21:52,760 --> 00:21:54,280 当时有支叫KLF的乐队 There was a band called the KLF 383 00:21:54,280 --> 00:21:56,160 举办了通宵锐舞派对 and they had an all-night rave, basically, 384 00:21:56,160 --> 00:21:57,600 我们前来拍摄音乐录影带 and we were here to film a video. 385 00:21:57,600 --> 00:21:59,640 KLF在朱拉岛办通宵锐舞派对？ So an all-night rave here on Jura with the KLF? 386 00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:02,080 没错 就这样结识了我丈夫 Yep. Yep, and that was how I met my husband. 387 00:22:02,080 --> 00:22:05,240 -此后一直定居于此？ -断断续续居住至今 - And you stayed here ever since? - I have, on and off, yes. 388 00:22:05,240 --> 00:22:07,280 吸引你的是什么？ So what's the appeal? 389 00:22:07,280 --> 00:22:09,880 这地方要么一见倾心 要么无感 You either get it or you don't, actually. 390 00:22:09,880 --> 00:22:12,360 荒野环境 生活品质 The wilderness, the quality of life, 391 00:22:12,360 --> 00:22:14,760 全家在此生活工作的可能性 the fact that we can live and work as a family — 392 00:22:14,760 --> 00:22:17,160 这种生活方式千金难换 you can buy that kind of lifestyle. 393 00:22:17,160 --> 00:22:19,400 与从前相比生活方式天差地别 There's such a contrast in lifestyles, 394 00:22:19,400 --> 00:22:20,840 与从前相比生活方式天差地别 compared to what you had before. 395 00:22:20,840 --> 00:22:22,320 确实差异巨大 It is, massively so. 396 00:22:22,320 --> 00:22:25,000 当年在1993年或别的年份的仲夏夜 It was something I never thought for a minute, you know, 397 00:22:25,000 --> 00:22:28,160 我从未想过 on that Midsummer's night in '93 or whenever it was, 398 00:22:28,160 --> 00:22:30,880 会带着四个孩子在此长居 that I would end up living here full-time with four kids. 399 00:22:30,880 --> 00:22:32,160 根本不可能料到 No, not a hope. 400 00:22:34,800 --> 00:22:38,440 克莱尔那夜邂逅的是安迪·弗莱彻 The man Claire met that night was Andy Fletcher. 401 00:22:38,440 --> 00:22:41,080 他在本土出生成长 He was born and brought up on the mainland, 402 00:22:41,080 --> 00:22:46,760 后继承了阿德卢萨庄园及附带的1.8万英亩土地 but inherited Ardlussa House and the 18,000 acres that go with it. 403 00:22:46,760 --> 00:22:50,280 -安迪你在此居住多久了？ -七年 - How long have you lived here then, Andy? - Seven years. 404 00:22:50,280 --> 00:22:53,160 安迪正带我巡视他的领地 Andy's giving me a tour of his domain 405 00:22:53,160 --> 00:22:56,800 为穿越这片广袤崎岖之地 and, to get around such a vast area of rough ground, 406 00:22:56,800 --> 00:23:00,000 我们将使用他的两栖全地形车 we'll be making use of his ARGOCAT. 407 00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:01,840 抓紧了！ Hold on to your hats! 408 00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:03,480 哇！ Whoa! 409 00:23:03,480 --> 00:23:06,640 与社区共有的吉拉岛不同 Unlike Gigha, which is owned by the community, 410 00:23:06,640 --> 00:23:10,960 朱拉岛划分为七处私人领地 Jura is divided up into seven separate private estates 411 00:23:10,960 --> 00:23:13,440 安迪夫妇是唯一 and Andy and Claire are the only owners 412 00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:15,600 常居岛上的所有者 to live full-time on the island. 413 00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:20,120 这里或许不是最肥沃的岛屿 It may not be the most fertile of islands, 414 00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:22,960 却是鹿群理想家园 but it's perfect for deer. 415 00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:29,120 鹿群是朱拉岛重要组成部分 So deer are a very important part of Jura. 416 00:23:29,120 --> 00:23:31,200 岛名也源于此吧？ In fact, it's part of the name, is it not? 417 00:23:31,200 --> 00:23:34,680 是的 朱拉在古诺尔斯语中即"鹿岛" It is, it's the Norse word, Jura, meaning the island of deer, 418 00:23:34,680 --> 00:23:37,160 它们至关重要 so that is part of it. They are very essential, 419 00:23:37,160 --> 00:23:40,200 是岛屿主要收入来源 that is a major part of the income of the island. 420 00:23:40,200 --> 00:23:42,960 苏格兰马鹿珍贵非凡 They're wonderful, special thing in Scotland, red deer, 421 00:23:42,960 --> 00:23:45,200 这里是它们的完美栖息地 and this is the perfect setting for them. 422 00:23:45,200 --> 00:23:47,840 可知岛上鹿群数量？ Any idea of the number of deer that there are on the island? 423 00:23:47,840 --> 00:23:49,840 约五千头 There's around 5,000 deer on the island. 424 00:23:49,840 --> 00:23:53,440 鹿与人数比约25:1 我算得对吗？ So the deer outnumber the people, getting my maths right, about 25-1. 425 00:23:53,440 --> 00:23:54,920 确实如此 Yep, they do indeed. 426 00:23:54,920 --> 00:23:57,520 -我们乐见如此！ -【笑声】 - We prefer it that way! - THEY LAUGH 427 00:23:57,520 --> 00:24:00,760 安迪将阿德卢萨作为狩猎庄园经营 'Andy runs Ardlussa as a sporting estate 428 00:24:00,760 --> 00:24:05,160 猎鹿是岛上的重要传统 'and deer stalking is very much part of the island's tradition. 429 00:24:05,160 --> 00:24:08,320 自维多利亚时期富人发掘出 'Ever since wealthy Victorians discovered their passion 430 00:24:08,320 --> 00:24:12,720 对狩猎射击垂钓的热衷后 'for hunting, shooting and fishing, Jura's population of deer 431 00:24:12,720 --> 00:24:16,120 朱拉岛的鹿群始终吸引人们来到这片荒野 'has attracted people to this wild landscape. 432 00:24:16,120 --> 00:24:18,560 至今依然如此 'And that's still the case today.' 433 00:24:18,560 --> 00:24:22,520 -接待哪些客户？ -各国人士 - What kind of clients do you have coming here? - All nationalities. 434 00:24:22,520 --> 00:24:25,680 多是寻求逃离的都市人 They are city people who are looking for an escape, 435 00:24:25,680 --> 00:24:28,560 渴望来到苏格兰荒野 are looking to come to the Scottish wilderness 436 00:24:28,560 --> 00:24:30,560 体验无人之境 and see no other people 437 00:24:30,560 --> 00:24:33,640 我们带他们导览猎鹿时便是如此 when we take them out on a guided stalking tour or whatever. 438 00:24:33,640 --> 00:24:35,680 若有伦敦银行家前来 If you've got bankers coming up from London, 439 00:24:35,680 --> 00:24:38,240 他们有何期待？为何而来？ what are their expectations, what are they coming here for? 440 00:24:38,240 --> 00:24:40,800 人们为空间而来 不仅为狩猎 People come here for the space, not just to shoot things — 441 00:24:40,800 --> 00:24:42,280 为观赏雄鹰 they come here to see the eagles, 442 00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:45,520 为融入天地成为景观的一部分 they come here to be part and parcel of the whole thing, the landscape. 443 00:24:45,520 --> 00:24:48,000 这是仅存的几处荒野之一 I mean, this is one of the few wildernesses left 444 00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:49,360 瑰丽非凡 and it's fabulous. 445 00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:52,080 人们渴望置身其中 It's great. People like to get out there and be in amongst it 446 00:24:52,080 --> 00:24:53,640 不见人踪 and see no other people. 447 00:24:53,640 --> 00:24:58,560 尽管许多人对偏远岛居怀有浪漫想象 But while many people have romantic notions about remote island life, 448 00:24:58,560 --> 00:25:00,280 正是这种与世隔绝 it's that very remoteness 449 00:25:00,280 --> 00:25:03,360 使养育家庭充满挑战 which can make it a challenging place to bring up a family. 450 00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:07,920 后勤保障有时如同噩梦 It's the logistics sometimes, you know, are complete nightmare. 451 00:25:07,920 --> 00:25:09,880 上学通勤便是难题 The travel to school, it is an issue. 452 00:25:09,880 --> 00:25:11,880 长女刚上中学 Our eldest started secondary school, 453 00:25:11,880 --> 00:25:15,040 八月起需前往另一岛屿就读 she's got to go to another island just get to high school, come August. 454 00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:16,560 -很不容易吧？ -确实艰难 - So it's not easy, is it? - It's hard. 455 00:25:16,560 --> 00:25:18,480 若选择在此定居 If you make a commitment to a place like this, 456 00:25:18,480 --> 00:25:20,800 -需付出巨大努力 -确实如此 - you've got to put a lot of effort into it. - You really do 457 00:25:20,800 --> 00:25:23,720 居住于此是莫大荣幸 and it's a real privilege to live somewhere like this 458 00:25:23,720 --> 00:25:25,120 但也确实艰辛 but it is really hard work. 459 00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,040 深冬时节常会自问 And there are times in the middle of the winter when you just think, 460 00:25:28,040 --> 00:25:29,800 "何苦如此？" 但是... "Why am I bothering?" But, um... 461 00:25:29,800 --> 00:25:33,480 我认为这是养育家庭的绝佳之地 I think it is THE most incredible place to raise a family. 462 00:25:33,480 --> 00:25:34,640 孩子们享有完全自由 They have total freedom 463 00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,280 随着世界愈发繁忙复杂 and I think there'll be much more interest in places like this 464 00:25:37,280 --> 00:25:40,560 这类地方将更受青睐 as the world gets busy and more...complicated, you know? 465 00:25:40,560 --> 00:25:43,760 这种避世之所将成为人们向往之地 These kinds of retreats are going to be what people want to do. 466 00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:45,800 站在你家花园中 Well, standing here in your garden, 467 00:25:45,800 --> 00:25:49,640 -今日在此感觉完美 -确实美妙 - it feels like a perfect place to be on a day like today. - It is amazing. 468 00:25:53,560 --> 00:25:55,320 离岛之前 Before I leave the island, 469 00:25:55,320 --> 00:25:58,800 还有最后一事需完成 there's one final thing I have to do. 470 00:25:58,800 --> 00:26:02,800 苏格兰有多座 There are several mountains in Scotland 471 00:26:02,800 --> 00:26:04,880 以女性名称命名的山岳 with female names and associations, 472 00:26:04,880 --> 00:26:08,080 学者认为这延续了 and some scholars believe that this is a reminder 473 00:26:08,080 --> 00:26:11,640 古老的前基督教凯尔特大地之母崇拜 of an ancient, pre-Christian Celtic mother goddess 474 00:26:11,640 --> 00:26:13,760 与土地紧密相连 with connections to the land. 475 00:26:13,760 --> 00:26:16,320 艾伦岛山峦便是例证 The hills of Arran are a case in point 476 00:26:16,320 --> 00:26:20,280 而我眼前的正是著名的朱拉乳峰 and, in front of me, the famous Paps of Jura. 477 00:26:20,280 --> 00:26:24,720 当然 这些山峰的独特形状 Of course, the distinctive shape of these peaks 478 00:26:24,720 --> 00:26:27,200 或许与名称大有关系！ could have rather a lot to do with the name! 479 00:26:28,360 --> 00:26:30,920 但相似之处仅止于此 But there the similarity ends. 480 00:26:32,480 --> 00:26:37,000 等待我的是穿越泥炭沼泽 石南丛 What awaits me is a ghastly slog over peat bog, heather 481 00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:40,880 及陡峭碎石坡的艰苦跋涉 and a purgatory of steep-angled scree slopes. 482 00:26:44,640 --> 00:26:47,720 如旅伴托马斯·彭南特所言 As my fellow traveller, Thomas Pennant, said, 483 00:26:47,720 --> 00:26:51,160 "此举费时费力 "It is a task of much labour and difficulty, 484 00:26:51,160 --> 00:26:53,800 "山体由巨岩构成 "being composed of vast stones. 485 00:26:53,800 --> 00:26:56,320 "整座山犹如巨大石冢" "The whole mountain forms a vast cairn." 486 00:26:58,880 --> 00:27:01,000 更糟糕的是 To make things even worse, 487 00:27:01,000 --> 00:27:04,360 乳峰峰顶笼罩在迷雾中 the summits of the Paps are shrouded in mist. 488 00:27:10,200 --> 00:27:14,000 啊 终于抵达 Ah. Now, here we are. At last. 489 00:27:14,000 --> 00:27:15,960 峰顶石冢 The summit cairn. 490 00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:20,360 我将添上一块石头 I'm going to add to this vast pile of stones with one of my own 491 00:27:20,360 --> 00:27:25,200 祈愿天气转晴得见美景 and a wish for better weather and a view. 492 00:27:28,280 --> 00:27:31,520 当我开始穿云而下 As I begin my descent through the clouds, 493 00:27:31,520 --> 00:27:35,440 回想此行遇见的所有人 I reflect on all the people I've met on this grand tour 494 00:27:35,440 --> 00:27:38,000 他们都接受了岛居生活的挑战 who've taken on the challenge of island life. 495 00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:45,040 此时天气意外转晴 Then, unexpectedly, the weather improves 496 00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:48,320 我顿时明白人们来此的缘由 and I'm reminded of just why people come here. 497 00:27:52,360 --> 00:27:56,640 迷雾散尽 视野绝佳！ The mist if lifting and the views are superb! 498 00:28:00,240 --> 00:28:03,080 金泰尔半岛的壮丽弧线 The great sweep of the Kintyre peninsula 499 00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:06,880 远处是我旅程的起点——吉拉岛 and, in the distance, Gigha — my starting point. 500 00:28:08,920 --> 00:28:13,160 朱拉与吉拉如此不同 Jura and Gigha are both so very different. 501 00:28:13,160 --> 00:28:16,640 这正是苏格兰岛屿的独特之处 But that's what makes the Scottish islands special — 502 00:28:16,640 --> 00:28:20,760 每座岛都拥有独特个性与魅力 each one has its own unique character and appeal. 503 00:28:24,720 --> 00:28:26,640 我想不到比这里更好的地方 I can't think of a better place 504 00:28:26,640 --> 00:28:31,840 为苏格兰群岛宏伟之旅画上句号 to end this Grand Tour of the Scottish Islands. 505 00:28:31,840 --> 00:28:34,360 从朱拉的嶙峋乳峰 From the stony Paps of Jura, 506 00:28:34,360 --> 00:28:39,960 我的下一段旅程将前往多岩的斯莱特群岛 my next grand tour takes me to the rocky Slate Islands.