1 00:00:03,320 --> 00:00:06,080 苏格兰丰富多样的地貌 Scotland's rich and varied landscape 2 00:00:06,080 --> 00:00:10,560 200多年来一直吸引着世界各地的游客 has drawn tourists from around the world for over 200 years - 3 00:00:10,560 --> 00:00:12,920 维多利亚时代末期 and by the end of the Victorian era, 4 00:00:12,920 --> 00:00:16,120 苏格兰已成为最受欢迎的夏季旅游胜地 Scotland was a favourite summer destination. 5 00:00:17,640 --> 00:00:21,240 但当凛冬寒风开始呼啸 But what happened when the chill winds of winter began to blow 6 00:00:21,240 --> 00:00:25,200 游客们收拾行囊返家时又会如何？ and the tourists packed their bags and headed for home? 7 00:00:25,200 --> 00:00:27,520 维多利亚时代的开拓者们 Slowly but surely, 8 00:00:27,520 --> 00:00:31,640 正稳步实施吸引游客回归的计划 enterprising Victorians began to lure the tourists back. 9 00:00:31,640 --> 00:00:33,120 他们利用严寒 Using the cold, 10 00:00:33,120 --> 00:00:37,480 将高地打造成冬季度假胜地 they promoted the Highlands as a winter holiday destination. 11 00:00:37,480 --> 00:00:41,720 冰壶、滑冰、登山和滑雪的乐园 A playground for curling, for skating, for mountaineering, 12 00:00:41,720 --> 00:00:43,640 滑雪的乐园 and for skiing. 13 00:00:43,640 --> 00:00:47,800 毕竟 这里就像瑞士一样 不是吗？ After all, it's just like Switzerland, isn't it? 14 00:00:50,120 --> 00:00:52,560 我沿着史上首批旅游指南之一 I've been travelling through Scotland 15 00:00:52,560 --> 00:00:56,320 《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》推荐的路线 from the Galloway Coast to the Glens of Ross-shire, 16 00:00:56,320 --> 00:01:01,840 从加洛韦海岸到罗斯郡的峡谷一路探访 following routes suggested by one of the first tourist guides ever published - 17 00:01:01,840 --> 00:01:04,160 《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》 Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland. 18 00:01:05,720 --> 00:01:10,720 这本维多利亚时期的珍贵典籍对我意义非凡 This wonderful Victorian volume has a special place in my affections. 19 00:01:10,720 --> 00:01:15,040 它曾指引我们全家度假的行程 It once guided my own family when we went on holiday. 20 00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:18,680 四十年后 我再次翻开尘封的书页 40 years on, I'm dusting it down 21 00:01:18,680 --> 00:01:21,440 重寻那个黄金年代 and setting off to recapture the golden age, 22 00:01:21,440 --> 00:01:24,720 当苏格兰还是度假胜地皇冠上的明珠 when Scotland was a jewel in the crown of holiday destinations. 23 00:01:26,400 --> 00:01:29,640 最终章旅程我将另辟蹊径 For my final journey, I'm going off-piste 24 00:01:29,640 --> 00:01:34,080 探索苏格兰如何自我营销成为冬季乐园 to discover how Scotland sold itself as a winter playground. 25 00:01:46,240 --> 00:01:49,160 苏格兰大环游的最后一程 The last journey of my Grand Tour of Scotland 26 00:01:49,160 --> 00:01:53,280 从门蒂斯湖的冰封湖畔启程 takes me from the icy shores of the Lake of Menteith, 27 00:01:53,280 --> 00:01:55,360 穿越银装素裹的高地 through the snowbound Highlands, 28 00:01:55,360 --> 00:01:59,200 直抵英国最高最寒冷的山峰 to the summit of Britain's highest and most wintery mountain, 29 00:01:59,200 --> 00:02:00,360 本尼维斯山 Ben Nevis. 30 00:02:04,040 --> 00:02:06,760 严冬在维多利亚时代司空见惯 Harsh winters were common in Victorian times, 31 00:02:06,760 --> 00:02:11,040 《布莱克指南》兴奋地向游客展示 and Black's Guide excitedly presents the tourist 32 00:02:11,040 --> 00:02:14,840 "冰冻北方"的惊人数据 with some impressive statistics about the "frozen north". 33 00:02:14,840 --> 00:02:19,080 "1860年圣诞节记录到的最低温度 "The lowest temperatures recorded, minus 12 degrees Fahrenheit, 34 00:02:19,080 --> 00:02:20,960 "零下44华氏度 "or 44 degrees of frost, 35 00:02:20,960 --> 00:02:24,280 "出现在顿河与迪河上游河谷 "were observed in the upper valleys of the Don and the Dee 36 00:02:24,280 --> 00:02:27,200 "1860年圣诞节期间" "at Christmas 1860." 37 00:02:28,600 --> 00:02:30,800 这样的气候条件堪称理想 Now conditions like these seemed ideal 38 00:02:30,800 --> 00:02:36,240 可将苏格兰打造成游客的冬季仙境 for transforming Scotland into a tourists' winter wonderland. 39 00:02:38,160 --> 00:02:41,480 这是两年前的门蒂斯湖 This is the Lake of Menteith two years ago, 40 00:02:41,480 --> 00:02:45,200 我有幸体验冰上运动的刺激 when I was able to enjoy the thrill of playing on the ice, 41 00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:47,280 如同维多利亚时代 just as in Victorian times, 42 00:02:47,280 --> 00:02:51,680 刺骨寒霜将湖面变成巨大溜冰场 when bitter frosts transformed its waters into a huge ice rink, 43 00:02:51,680 --> 00:02:55,160 古老冰壶运动得以开展 allowing the ancient game of curling to take place. 44 00:02:56,160 --> 00:02:58,360 门蒂斯湖曾是著名年度大赛 Famously, the Lake of Menteith was once the venue 45 00:02:58,360 --> 00:03:02,320 "邦斯皮尔"冰壶赛的举办地 for the great annual curling match called the Bonspiel. 46 00:03:03,600 --> 00:03:09,160 该赛事1979年最后一次在此举办 This national competition was last held on the lake in 1979. 47 00:03:09,160 --> 00:03:10,840 场面蔚为壮观 It was a splendid spectacle, 48 00:03:10,840 --> 00:03:16,040 数千人聆听冰石碰撞的铿锵之声 and thousands came to thrill to the clash of stone on ice. 49 00:03:16,040 --> 00:03:20,080 为探寻"咆哮游戏"的历史 To find out more about the history of the "roaring game", 50 00:03:20,080 --> 00:03:23,240 我与鲍勃·凯利相约湖畔 I'm joining Bob Kelly on the Lake, 51 00:03:23,240 --> 00:03:25,320 今年无缘冰上滑行 not to slide across the ice this year, 52 00:03:25,320 --> 00:03:27,280 唯余泛舟湖面 but to ply its waters in a boat. 53 00:03:28,480 --> 00:03:31,080 鲍勃 我们只能划船不能滑冰 Bob, it's a bit of a sad testament to climate change, isn't it, 54 00:03:31,080 --> 00:03:33,440 算是气候变化的悲哀证明吧？ that we're out here in a boat instead of being on the ice? 55 00:03:33,440 --> 00:03:36,840 确实如此 多希望能重现1979年的盛况 Well, isn't it just? Yes, it would be lovely to think we could experience 56 00:03:36,840 --> 00:03:39,840 但现实如此 the same conditions we had in 1979, but that's the way it is. 57 00:03:39,840 --> 00:03:41,000 你亲历过1979年那届？ But you were there in 1979. 58 00:03:41,000 --> 00:03:43,600 当然 每分钟都令人沉醉 I certainly was indeed, yes, enjoyed every minute of it. 59 00:03:43,600 --> 00:03:44,920 那天精彩绝伦 It was just a fantastic day. 60 00:03:44,920 --> 00:03:49,680 600支队伍 2500...2400名冰壶选手 We're talking about 600 teams, 2,500...2,400 curlers. 61 00:03:49,680 --> 00:03:51,320 2400名选手同场竞技 2,400 curlers on this ice. 62 00:03:51,320 --> 00:03:53,440 - 2400人同场 - 还有观众 - 2,400 curlers on the ice. - Plus spectators. 63 00:03:53,440 --> 00:03:57,040 观众和官员 规模空前绝后 Plus spectators, plus officials. It was just absolutely unbelievable. 64 00:03:57,040 --> 00:03:59,080 阳光终日普照 The sun shone the whole day. 65 00:03:59,080 --> 00:04:01,360 天气晴好 冰况完美 It was beautiful weather, beautiful conditions. 66 00:04:01,360 --> 00:04:03,440 志同道合的人们热情洋溢 Loads of people like-minded, all passionate, 67 00:04:03,440 --> 00:04:07,960 对赛事充满期待 太美妙了 excited, with great anticipation about the day ahead. It was fantastic. 68 00:04:07,960 --> 00:04:11,480 过去冬季应该更寒冷 I suppose in the old days, there must have been much colder winters 69 00:04:11,480 --> 00:04:13,840 才能定期举办户外赛事 to have regular matches outside 70 00:04:13,840 --> 00:04:16,720 毕竟那时没有室内场地选择 because they wouldn't have had the alternative of going inside. 71 00:04:16,720 --> 00:04:20,080 没错 冰壶只能在天然冰场进行 Well, that's right. The only curling that took place was outdoors 72 00:04:20,080 --> 00:04:22,120 在天然冰面上 on naturally frozen ice. 73 00:04:22,120 --> 00:04:24,600 每个村庄都有冰壶池 Every little village would have a curling pond 74 00:04:24,600 --> 00:04:27,320 农闲时节 and at that time of year, of course, 75 00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:30,280 只要冰况允许 not too many farming duties to be done, so when the weather was right, 76 00:04:30,280 --> 00:04:33,760 全村人都会出来享受冰壶运动 the whole community would get out and enjoy the sport of curling. 77 00:04:33,760 --> 00:04:36,480 - 这项运动有多久历史？ - 好问题 - And how old is the sport? - Well, there's a good question. 78 00:04:36,480 --> 00:04:39,000 确切起源已不可考 I don't think anybody really knows how old it is. 79 00:04:39,000 --> 00:04:41,880 现存有块"斯特灵石" There is a stone in existence called the Stirling stone 80 00:04:41,880 --> 00:04:44,920 刻有1511年字样 which is actually engraved with the date 1511, 81 00:04:44,920 --> 00:04:48,280 但真实性存疑 but nobody's absolutely sure whether that's genuine or not, 82 00:04:48,280 --> 00:04:50,960 不过历史至少可追溯至此 but it certainly goes back probably just about as far as that 83 00:04:50,960 --> 00:04:52,280 或许更早 and maybe even further. 84 00:04:54,800 --> 00:04:59,520 维多利亚游客被这种激情感染 Victorian tourists found the excitement infectious. 85 00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:03,000 "这项国民运动处处体现真实魅力 "There is a true ring of the national pastime about the whole affair. 86 00:05:03,000 --> 00:05:07,920 "冰石掠过冰面发出嗤嗤声响 "Ch-ch-ch hissed the stone as it was sent skimming over the ice. 87 00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:11,480 "围观者不断高喊'使劲擦冰！'" "Loud and ceaseless were the cries of 'Soup it up, mun, soup it up!' 88 00:05:11,480 --> 00:05:13,320 "现场气氛热烈" "from the excited bystanders." 89 00:05:15,520 --> 00:05:19,000 告别怀揣寒冬记忆的鲍勃·凯利 Leaving Bob Kelly with his memories of colder winters, 90 00:05:19,000 --> 00:05:20,360 和他的"咆哮游戏" and the 'roaring game', 91 00:05:20,360 --> 00:05:24,200 我深入高地 循着1894年 I set off into the Highlands, following a winter route 92 00:05:24,200 --> 00:05:28,960 英国旅行作家MJB·巴德利描述的冰雪路线 described in all its frosty glory by an English tourist and travel writer, 93 00:05:28,960 --> 00:05:34,440 MJB Baddeley, who came to Scotland in 1894. 94 00:05:34,440 --> 00:05:38,080 巴德利在游记中惊叹所见所闻 Baddeley was amazed by what he found on his tour. 95 00:05:38,080 --> 00:05:40,680 尤其是当地地貌与气候 The landscape and the climate especially 96 00:05:40,680 --> 00:05:44,600 与英格兰故乡截然不同 were unlike anything he'd ever experienced at home in England. 97 00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:48,080 他仿佛置身瑞士 In fact, he thought he'd found Switzerland. 98 00:05:51,880 --> 00:05:56,360 他在日记中描绘途经的奇幻冬景 In his journal, he describes the wondrous winter landscape he passed through. 99 00:05:57,760 --> 00:06:01,240 "霜挂树林的前景美不胜收 "It is beautiful, with a foreground of hoar-frosted trees, 100 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:04,000 "冬日光晕温柔净化着整片天地 "and the whole landscape chastened, as it were, 101 00:06:04,000 --> 00:06:07,200 "群山在透明柔光中 "by the soft transparency of the winter light, 102 00:06:07,200 --> 00:06:11,880 "宛如梦幻仙境" "through which the mountains seemed objects of the sweetest dreamland." 103 00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:14,560 "此景只应天上有" "The effect was simply indescribable." 104 00:06:15,640 --> 00:06:17,280 但那已是往昔 But that was then. 105 00:06:18,280 --> 00:06:21,520 我于二月重走巴德利的冬季路线 I'm re-tracing Baddeley's winter route in February. 106 00:06:21,520 --> 00:06:24,600 二月本应是一年最冷的月份 Now, February is normally the coldest month of the year, 107 00:06:24,600 --> 00:06:28,160 但气候差异却如此悬殊 but the contrast in the weather conditions couldn't be greater. 108 00:06:28,160 --> 00:06:31,360 巴德利见证的是冰雪仙境 Whereas Baddeley experienced a winter wonderland, 109 00:06:31,360 --> 00:06:34,680 我遇到的却是阴雨与反常暖冬 I've got rain and incredibly mild conditions, 110 00:06:34,680 --> 00:06:39,760 气温预报竟高达12摄氏度 so mild, in fact, they're actually forecast to get up to 12 degrees today. 111 00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:43,480 究竟发生了什么？ So what's happened? What's happened to all the snow and ice 112 00:06:43,480 --> 00:06:47,360 那些将高地变成冬季乐园的冰雪何在？ that was going to transform the Highlands into a winter playground? 113 00:06:49,400 --> 00:06:53,080 为探究气候异常的原因 To find out why the weather seems to have taken a wrong turn, 114 00:06:53,080 --> 00:06:57,800 我随气候专家伊恩·卡梅隆展开调查 I'm falling in step with climate expert, Ian Cameron. 115 00:06:57,800 --> 00:06:59,840 回溯维多利亚时代至两百年前 If you look at the period from the Victorian age 116 00:06:59,840 --> 00:07:02,160 即所谓"小冰河期" actually going back the way a couple of hundred years, 117 00:07:02,160 --> 00:07:05,920 那时的冬季无疑更寒冷多雪 to a term that we call the Little Ice Age, 118 00:07:05,920 --> 00:07:09,480 持续时间也更长 the winters were undoubtedly colder and undoubtedly snowier, 119 00:07:09,480 --> 00:07:11,760 1786年托马斯·桑顿的记载令人称奇 and lasted longer. I mean it's incredible, 120 00:07:11,760 --> 00:07:14,880 这位富绅带着友人 There's an account by a chap called Thomas Thornton 121 00:07:14,880 --> 00:07:19,360 在凯恩戈姆山野餐 who's walking in the Cairngorms in 1786 122 00:07:19,360 --> 00:07:22,120 八月盛夏时节 and he was taking his friends - very well heeled - 123 00:07:22,120 --> 00:07:24,760 - 他们选择在格伦费希散步... - 没错 - They were taking his friends for a picnic... - Right. 124 00:07:24,760 --> 00:07:26,920 8月6日晴空万里 And it was a beautiful summer's day, 6th of August. 125 00:07:26,920 --> 00:07:28,840 为显风雅 They decided it would be more civilised 126 00:07:28,840 --> 00:07:32,080 他们前往格伦费希山谷漫步 if they went into Glen Feshie and went for a little stroll there. 127 00:07:33,080 --> 00:07:37,080 行至半山腰处 So as they were walking up, not at a particularly great altitude, 128 00:07:37,080 --> 00:07:40,960 竟发现可冰镇午餐香槟的雪堆 they found a snow drift that they deposited their champagne in to cool it for lunch. 129 00:07:40,960 --> 00:07:43,120 - 妙极！ - 这可是八月份... - Brilliant! - You know, so that's in August... 130 00:07:43,120 --> 00:07:45,000 - 嗯哼 - 确实罕见 - Uh-huh. - I know, and that's exceptional. 131 00:07:47,560 --> 00:07:51,280 伊恩持续研究苏格兰冬季气候 As part of his ongoing research into the Scottish winter, 132 00:07:51,280 --> 00:07:54,440 多年来追踪监测山区 Ian has been surveying long-lasting snow patches 133 00:07:54,440 --> 00:07:57,200 永久积雪带的变化 in the mountains for several years. 134 00:07:57,200 --> 00:08:00,520 这些夏季残雪是气候变化 These summer snow patches are important indicators 135 00:08:00,520 --> 00:08:02,160 的重要指标 of climate change. 136 00:08:02,160 --> 00:08:05,680 1933年出现了自1829年以来 Now, in 1933, something happened which hadn't happened since 1829, 137 00:08:05,680 --> 00:08:09,600 首次全境无雪的极端情况 in that all snow had vanished in Scotland. 138 00:08:09,600 --> 00:08:11,520 这在当时前所未闻 That's the first time it had been known. 139 00:08:11,520 --> 00:08:14,720 由于现象过于 It was so, um, interesting a subject, 140 00:08:14,720 --> 00:08:18,160 《泰晤士报》甚至收到读者来信 and it was so unusual that someone actually wrote a letter to The Times. 141 00:08:18,160 --> 00:08:20,480 - "苏格兰无雪"震惊全国 - 登上头条 - So shock, horror, no snow. - Headline stuff. 142 00:08:20,480 --> 00:08:23,840 苏格兰登山俱乐部成员致信称 Someone from the Scottish Mountaineering Club wrote a letter to The Times 143 00:08:23,840 --> 00:08:27,760 "这是人类记忆里苏格兰首次全域无雪" to say that for the first time in living memory, all snow has vanished from Scotland. 144 00:08:27,760 --> 00:08:30,680 此后又出现过四次类似情况 And since that time, it's disappeared an additional four times. 145 00:08:30,680 --> 00:08:33,160 - 1959年 - 嗯 - 1959. - Uh-huh. 146 00:08:33,160 --> 00:08:36,280 1996、2003及2006年 1996, 2003 and then 2006. 147 00:08:36,280 --> 00:08:38,280 积雪消融的频率 So the rate of disappearance 148 00:08:38,280 --> 00:08:41,400 正在加速 and the frequency of disappearance is accelerating. 149 00:08:41,400 --> 00:08:43,880 您预测明年冬季会如何？ Any sense of what might happen next winter do you think? 150 00:08:43,880 --> 00:08:45,640 还会有降雪吗？ We might get some snow next winter? 151 00:08:45,640 --> 00:08:49,200 我们还能期待滑雪季吗？ We can look forward to putting our skis back on? 152 00:08:49,200 --> 00:08:52,840 我认为会有的 苏格兰的雪 Oh, I think so. I think that we will... We'll have snow for a while yet. 153 00:08:52,840 --> 00:08:55,440 那些断言苏格兰冬季终结的人 You know, people who've written the Scottish winter off 154 00:08:55,440 --> 00:08:56,960 言之过早了 I think are a little bit premature. 155 00:08:56,960 --> 00:09:00,760 苏格兰冬季最大的特点就是不可预测 If there's one thing to be certain about with the Scottish winter is it's unpredictable. 156 00:09:00,760 --> 00:09:02,480 确实变幻莫测 Certainly is unpredictable. 157 00:09:02,480 --> 00:09:04,360 今年冬天就是明证！ I know that for a fact for this winter! 158 00:09:05,600 --> 00:09:08,360 苏格兰冬季的不可预测性 The unpredictability of the Scottish winter 159 00:09:08,360 --> 00:09:10,520 已成为不争的事实 seems to be an incontrovertible fact. 160 00:09:12,120 --> 00:09:14,640 伟大的徒步爱好者 The great walking enthusiast, 161 00:09:14,640 --> 00:09:16,880 不知疲倦的格里尔森牧师 the indefatigable Reverend Grierson, 162 00:09:16,880 --> 00:09:19,160 对冬日寒潮毫不陌生 was no stranger to winter's icy blast, 163 00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:21,320 即便夏日登山亦如此 even on a summer ramble in the hills. 164 00:09:22,600 --> 00:09:24,840 "峰顶附近的积雪令人目眩 "Near the summit the snow was quite blinding. 165 00:09:24,840 --> 00:09:28,720 "我们冻僵的身体挂满冰凌 "We were quite benumbed and covered in icicles, 166 00:09:28,720 --> 00:09:32,040 "此时来口威士忌再合适不过" "so that a taste from the whisky flask was right acceptable." 167 00:09:32,040 --> 00:09:35,920 没有什么比烈酒更能驱寒了 Nothing like a little fire in the belly to keep out the cold. 168 00:09:39,760 --> 00:09:41,320 继续北行 Continuing north, 169 00:09:41,320 --> 00:09:45,440 我沿着奥本至格拉斯哥的古铁路线前进 my route follows the course of the old Oban-to-Glasgow railway line, 170 00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:49,360 《布莱克指南》称其为苏格兰最美铁路 which Black's describes as one of the most beautiful in Scotland. 171 00:09:53,560 --> 00:09:56,800 这里是奥本线上的格伦奥格尔 This is Glen Ogle on the Oban line, 172 00:09:56,800 --> 00:09:59,080 1960年代停止运营 which closed to trains in the 1960s. 173 00:10:00,400 --> 00:10:03,360 1990年代起成为国家步道网一部分 Since the 1990s, it's been part of a national network of routes 174 00:10:03,360 --> 00:10:07,840 吸引骑行与徒步爱好者 enjoyed by cyclists and long-distance walkers alike. 175 00:10:07,840 --> 00:10:11,360 维多利亚人曾为此铁路自豪 The Victorians were justly proud of their railway. 176 00:10:11,360 --> 00:10:14,280 铁轨蜿蜒攀升至我面前的山口 It climbed steeply to the head of the pass in front of me, 177 00:10:14,280 --> 00:10:18,400 横跨数座桥梁 包括这座宏伟的高架桥 crosses several bridges, including this magnificent old viaduct, 178 00:10:18,400 --> 00:10:22,880 它已成为蒸汽时代黄金期的象征 which has become something of a symbol to the golden age of steam travel. 179 00:10:26,240 --> 00:10:29,000 维多利亚时代 铁路对高地旅游业 In Victorian times, railways were crucial 180 00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:33,480 无论冬夏都至关重要 to the development of tourism in the Highlands, both summer and winter. 181 00:10:33,480 --> 00:10:36,080 早期冰雪运动爱好者 And early snow-sports enthusiasts 182 00:10:36,080 --> 00:10:38,680 热切期盼新线路开通 eagerly awaited the arrival of new lines 183 00:10:38,680 --> 00:10:42,080 以便快速抵达冬季乐园 to provide swift access to their winter playground. 184 00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:46,640 铁路公司很快开始用酷似瑞士的 Soon, railway companies began using images of Scotland - 185 00:10:46,640 --> 00:10:48,160 苏格兰风光 looking like Switzerland - 186 00:10:48,160 --> 00:10:51,160 宣传这条冬季仙境专线 to sell their new routes to this winter wonderland. 187 00:10:54,320 --> 00:10:57,080 在英国境内寻觅阿尔卑斯式气候 And where else would you go in the United Kingdom 188 00:10:57,080 --> 00:11:01,000 非凯恩戈姆山区莫属 to find the perfect Alpine climate but the Cairngorms, 189 00:11:01,000 --> 00:11:05,240 我的冬季之旅下一站正是此地 which is where my Winter Grand Tour takes me next. 190 00:11:08,800 --> 00:11:12,600 这里是苏格兰滑雪之都阿维莫尔 This is Aviemore, ski capital of Scotland. 191 00:11:13,640 --> 00:11:17,120 维多利亚游客在此下车 Leaving the train here, the Victorian tourist 192 00:11:17,120 --> 00:11:22,200 就能饱览凯恩戈姆雪山胜景 was treated to striking views of the snowy Cairngorm Mountains. 193 00:11:22,200 --> 00:11:24,800 《布莱克指南》如此描述 Black's Guide sets the tone. 194 00:11:24,800 --> 00:11:28,920 "从这片广袤寒冷的无人区 "From the huge, chill desert, totally uninhabited, 195 00:11:28,920 --> 00:11:33,160 "矗立着英国最高的山群" "rises the loftiest cluster of mountains in the United Kingdom." 196 00:11:33,160 --> 00:11:36,120 每见雪山之巅 Whenever I see snow-capped summits, 197 00:11:36,120 --> 00:11:40,280 我都想穿上雪板进山 I feel the urge to put on my skis and head for the hills. 198 00:11:40,280 --> 00:11:43,680 早期冬季运动爱好者 But to get there, early seekers of winter fun 199 00:11:43,680 --> 00:11:45,720 只能徒步或骑马进山 had to walk or ride a horse. 200 00:11:45,720 --> 00:11:47,440 如今可就便利多了 Now, it's a lot easier. 201 00:11:51,680 --> 00:11:53,880 凯恩戈姆山铁路 The Cairngorm Mountain Railway 202 00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:56,560 载着我这样的运动爱好者 takes would-be sporting types like me, 203 00:11:56,560 --> 00:11:59,320 深入凯恩戈姆腹地 deep into the heart of the Cairngorms 204 00:11:59,320 --> 00:12:04,680 追寻冬日假期的精髓——冰雪 in search of that essential winter holiday ingredient - snow. 205 00:12:04,680 --> 00:12:08,040 在苏格兰 这是最能体验 In Scotland, this is about as close as you can get 206 00:12:08,040 --> 00:12:12,360 瑞士风格山地铁路的地方 to an authentic, Swiss-style, mountain railway experience 207 00:12:12,360 --> 00:12:16,040 如同阿尔卑斯同行 它载着寻雪客 and, like its Alpine counterparts, it takes tourists in search of snow 208 00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:18,560 只为享受速降之乐 just so they can slide back down again. 209 00:12:21,800 --> 00:12:25,320 山顶站海拔超4000英尺 The top station is well above 4,000 feet 210 00:12:25,320 --> 00:12:28,520 人流如织令我惊叹 and I'm struck by how busy the place is. 211 00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:34,480 可见速降滑雪的魅力无法抵挡 It just goes to show, the allure of sliding downhill is irresistible. 212 00:12:35,840 --> 00:12:41,360 我常想滑雪欲望或是人类本能 Now, I sometimes think that the desire to slide on snow must be an instinctive thing. 213 00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:44,680 不仅人类乐在其中 And it's one not just enjoyed by human beings. 214 00:12:44,680 --> 00:12:47,240 曾在挪威登山时 Once, when I was mountaineering in Norway, 215 00:12:47,240 --> 00:12:52,520 我目睹一群幼年驯鹿攀上岩脊 I watched a group of young reindeer clambering up a rocky ridge, 216 00:12:52,520 --> 00:12:55,560 只为坐着滑下山坡 just to slide back down on their backsides. 217 00:12:55,560 --> 00:12:59,960 分明是年轻雄鹿在嬉戏炫耀 They were literally young bucks having fun and showing off. 218 00:12:59,960 --> 00:13:02,440 可悲的是 我已年届 Now, sadly, for me, I've got to the age 219 00:13:02,440 --> 00:13:07,840 无力耍帅 只剩一路下坡的份 when I'm too old to impress and it's downhill all the way for me. 220 00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:15,000 尽量避免摔跤 Trying not to fall over 221 00:13:15,000 --> 00:13:20,240 逐渐成为我滑雪的重要课题 has become an increasingly important part of the skiing experience for me, 222 00:13:20,240 --> 00:13:24,040 虽技术拙劣 却深陷其中 but although I'm pretty rubbish, I'm addicted to it. 223 00:13:24,040 --> 00:13:28,600 另一位将滑雪融入血液的是默特尔·辛普森 Someone else who has the sport in her blood is Myrtle Simpson. 224 00:13:28,600 --> 00:13:32,120 她不仅是苏格兰滑雪俱乐部前主席 Not only is she a former President of the Scottish Ski Club, 225 00:13:32,120 --> 00:13:38,840 1965年更成为首位横跨格陵兰冰盖的女性 in 1965 she became the first woman to ski across the Greenland ice cap. 226 00:13:38,840 --> 00:13:42,080 我们常说若能在苏格兰滑雪 Well, we always say that if you can ski in Scotland, 227 00:13:42,080 --> 00:13:43,680 天下无不可滑之地 you can ski anywhere. 228 00:13:43,680 --> 00:13:45,440 此言非虚 And, um, I think that's true 229 00:13:45,440 --> 00:13:48,920 这里汇聚了所有极端天气 because we get every conceivable kind of weather here, 230 00:13:48,920 --> 00:13:51,840 全球难觅更恶劣环境 and you won't meet much worse wherever you go. 231 00:13:51,840 --> 00:13:54,800 当初促使我们行动的是 But what actually made us want to do that was, it was just at the time 232 00:13:54,800 --> 00:13:57,520 有人乘游轮转一圈 when people started going on cruise ships 233 00:13:57,520 --> 00:13:59,440 就自称完成探险 and said they'd been on expeditions, 234 00:13:59,440 --> 00:14:02,640 我们觉得这实在荒谬 and we thought that was not, you know, just not on. 235 00:14:02,640 --> 00:14:05,400 于是尝试复刻南森1888年 So we tried to see if we could ski the way Nansen did 236 00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:07,040 横跨格陵兰的路线 when he crossed Greenland in 1888. 237 00:14:07,040 --> 00:14:09,800 这位挪威探险家 Nansen was a Norwegian explorer 238 00:14:09,800 --> 00:14:13,520 其北极壮举激励了无数后来者 and Myrtle wasn't the first to have been inspired 239 00:14:13,520 --> 00:14:15,360 包括默特尔 by his Arctic exploits. 240 00:14:15,360 --> 00:14:19,840 1890年 威廉·内史密斯响应挑战 In 1890, William Naismith took up the skiing challenge, 241 00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:23,480 成为苏格兰雪原拓荒第一人 making the very first tracks across Scottish snow. 242 00:14:23,480 --> 00:14:26,160 滑雪运动自此蓬勃发展 From then on, skiing snowballed. 243 00:14:26,160 --> 00:14:29,840 尽管先驱者志向高远 Although the aspirations of these pioneers were high, 244 00:14:29,840 --> 00:14:33,520 技术短板常令他们铩羽而归 they were often let down by their levels of skill. 245 00:14:33,520 --> 00:14:38,160 但惊人的是 维多利亚时代的苏格兰人 But amazingly, Victorian Scots were actually skiing in the Highlands 246 00:14:38,160 --> 00:14:41,960 早于某些阿尔卑斯地区开始滑雪 before the sport was taken up in some parts of the Alps. 247 00:14:43,280 --> 00:14:48,360 当女性踏上雪坡 苏格兰雪山甚至 And Scotland's snowy slopes even saw early signs of women's emancipation 248 00:14:48,360 --> 00:14:50,920 见证了女性解放的萌芽 as the ladies took to the hills. 249 00:14:50,920 --> 00:14:54,720 当时兴起穿灯笼裤的风潮 There began to be a sort of movement that you... You could buy bloomers. 250 00:14:54,720 --> 00:14:57,840 爱丁堡商店就有售卖 There were shops in Edinburgh - you could buy bloomers. 251 00:14:57,840 --> 00:14:59,720 离村时仍需套上裙子 Of course you left the village in your skirt 252 00:14:59,720 --> 00:15:02,400 - 不可裸露双腿 - 天理难容！ - because you mustn't let your legs show. - Heaven forbid! 253 00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:04,000 以免惊扰男性 And upset the men. 254 00:15:04,000 --> 00:15:06,080 她们将裙子藏匿起来 So they hid their skirts. 255 00:15:06,080 --> 00:15:10,120 有轶闻说某次浓雾降临 And there are some magic stories of mist coming down like this, 256 00:15:10,120 --> 00:15:14,400 她们再也找不到藏裙的岩石 and they couldn't find the blinking boulder they'd hidden the skirts in. 257 00:15:14,400 --> 00:15:18,800 但仅靠灯笼裤无法推动运动普及 But bloomers alone wouldn't popularise the sport. 258 00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:21,040 滑雪真正的革命 The real revolution in skiing 259 00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:24,600 始于二战爆发 came with the outbreak of the Second World War. 260 00:15:24,600 --> 00:15:26,880 当时英军对抗 I think the British Army was trying to fight 261 00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:28,960 意大利阿尔卑斯军团时 against the Alpini of Italy, for instance, 262 00:15:28,960 --> 00:15:31,120 对方是奥运滑雪高手 who were crack Olympic skiers, 263 00:15:31,120 --> 00:15:33,720 而英军训练时连手套都没有 and the British Army training didn't even have gloves. 264 00:15:33,720 --> 00:15:35,480 他们就在凯恩戈姆训练 And they trained here in the Cairngorms. 265 00:15:35,480 --> 00:15:39,040 所有庄园宅邸都被军队征用 All the various estate houses were commandeered by the Army 266 00:15:39,040 --> 00:15:41,760 漫山遍野都是学滑雪的士兵 and apparently there were just swarms of Army learning to ski, 267 00:15:41,760 --> 00:15:44,680 许多人返乡后 and a huge number of people came back, 268 00:15:44,680 --> 00:15:46,760 难忘山间乐趣 and they'd had terrific fun in the mountains, 269 00:15:46,760 --> 00:15:49,080 想着"何不重拾此乐？" and they thought, "Why can't we still do that?" 270 00:15:51,240 --> 00:15:55,880 高地现有五处滑雪场 There are now five ski resorts across the Highlands. 271 00:15:55,880 --> 00:15:59,880 雪况最佳的周末 On a good weekend, when the snow conditions are at their most Alpine, 272 00:15:59,880 --> 00:16:04,680 苏格兰雪场可接待两万游客 it's reckoned that up to 20,000 people are on the piste in Scotland. 273 00:16:04,680 --> 00:16:10,680 奥地利滑雪教练汉斯·库瓦尔1956年来此 Hans Kuwall came from Austria as a ski instructor in 1956, 274 00:16:10,680 --> 00:16:12,480 一待就是一辈子 and he's still here! 275 00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:16,080 但即便那时降雪也不稳定 But even then, the snow was unreliable. 276 00:16:16,080 --> 00:16:18,520 您对苏格兰的第一印象？ What was your first impression of Scotland? 277 00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:21,440 "雪呢？"【笑声】 "Where's the snow?" THEY LAUGH 278 00:16:21,440 --> 00:16:23,920 当时真的没雪吗？ Where WAS the snow? Was there nothing? 279 00:16:23,920 --> 00:16:26,880 翻越德鲁莫克特山时满眼绿色 Coming over Drumochter - green. 280 00:16:26,880 --> 00:16:30,280 我心都凉了："天啊这是哪儿" And I thought, "Oh dear, what I'm coming to," you know, 281 00:16:30,280 --> 00:16:32,520 "是不是来错了地方" sort of, "Did I make a mistake?" 282 00:16:32,520 --> 00:16:34,640 那年雪况极差 It was a bad season. 283 00:16:34,640 --> 00:16:38,360 我们乘小巴到处找雪场 We travelled in a minibus from A to B, you know, so... 284 00:16:38,360 --> 00:16:40,440 - 就为找雪？ - 没错 - But you were looking for snow? - Yes. 285 00:16:41,720 --> 00:16:45,240 在小块积雪上 Little patches of snow where we could take our beginners 286 00:16:45,240 --> 00:16:47,440 教新手滑雪 and teach them to ski. 287 00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:55,040 1960年代初凯恩戈姆建成缆车 In the early '60s, a ski lift was built in the Cairngorms. 288 00:16:55,040 --> 00:16:59,080 汉斯和学员们终于不必 Now Hans and his clients no longer had to spend half a day 289 00:16:59,080 --> 00:17:01,360 花半天时间徒步寻雪 walking uphill in search of snow. 290 00:17:06,920 --> 00:17:09,480 阿维莫尔迅速发展 Aviemore developed rapidly, 291 00:17:09,480 --> 00:17:13,320 效仿圣莫里茨等阿尔卑斯雪场 modelling itself on Alpine ski resorts like St Moritz. 292 00:17:15,560 --> 00:17:18,280 甚至聘请影星奥马尔·沙里夫 Movie star Omar Sharif was hired 293 00:17:18,280 --> 00:17:22,360 为度假区增添国际范儿 to lend a sense of international sophistication to the resort. 294 00:17:23,760 --> 00:17:26,840 高山滑雪后的狂欢文化就此登陆 Apres ski had arrived in the Highlands. 295 00:17:26,840 --> 00:17:30,760 是否刻意要将这里打造成 Do you think there was a very conscious attempt to try and create 296 00:17:30,760 --> 00:17:33,080 苏格兰版阿尔卑斯度假区？ an Alpine resort here in Scotland? 297 00:17:33,080 --> 00:17:35,800 确实如此 Yeah, very much so, you know? 298 00:17:35,800 --> 00:17:38,200 但始终困难重重 But there was always difficulties and so on. 299 00:17:38,200 --> 00:17:43,000 有段时间阿维莫尔运营得不错 But at one point, it was running quite well, Aviemore, 300 00:17:43,000 --> 00:17:47,160 尤其引进欧洲大陆教练后 you know, especially when we got Continental instructors in, 301 00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:50,440 他们出入酒吧舞厅 and they went into the bar, to the dances and so on, 302 00:17:50,440 --> 00:17:55,360 带来欧陆风情 and you got that Continental influence, you know, 303 00:17:55,360 --> 00:17:57,560 异国语言萦绕耳边 the different language and so on. 304 00:17:57,560 --> 00:18:00,480 欧陆滑雪的特色饮品 Of course, one of the great Continental features of skiing 305 00:18:00,480 --> 00:18:03,680 - 热红酒... - 没错 - 我们也备好了 - is gluhwein... - Yeah. - ..which we have here. 306 00:18:03,680 --> 00:18:06,760 谨以此杯致谢汉斯 So I'd like to say, "Thank you very much, Hans", 307 00:18:06,760 --> 00:18:08,120 祝您健康！ and zum wohl! 308 00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:11,280 - 干杯 - 干杯！ - Prost. - Prost! 309 00:18:15,880 --> 00:18:19,440 今冬对苏格兰滑雪并不友善 This winter has not been kind to Scottish skiing 310 00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:24,320 狂风暴雨取代了晶莹冰雪 with gales and rain instead of sparkling frosts and snow. 311 00:18:24,320 --> 00:18:28,920 但高地气候有时堪比北极 But sometimes, Highland weather can be truly Arctic. 312 00:18:30,080 --> 00:18:32,360 摄影技术发展初期 And as soon as photography developed, 313 00:18:32,360 --> 00:18:35,440 镜头就捕捉到大自然的威力 cameras were quick to capture the power of nature. 314 00:18:35,440 --> 00:18:40,000 高地冬景是早期新闻片的宠儿 Highland winters were a gift to early newsreels 315 00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:44,720 其苍凉堪比俄罗斯或西伯利亚 and competed in looks with Russia or Siberia for chilly bleakness. 316 00:18:46,080 --> 00:18:49,920 为亲历这片冰雪仙境 To get a fresh angle on this winter wonderland for myself, 317 00:18:49,920 --> 00:18:53,920 我选择乘轻型飞机 I'm taking a short cut to my next destination 318 00:18:53,920 --> 00:18:56,840 抄近路前往下一站 by taking to the air. 319 00:18:59,720 --> 00:19:03,080 五千米高空景色壮丽 The view from 5,000 feet is impressive. 320 00:19:04,680 --> 00:19:09,400 这是英国最高寒 This is the highest, coldest and most inhospitable region 321 00:19:09,400 --> 00:19:11,080 最荒凉的地区 in the whole of Britain, 322 00:19:11,080 --> 00:19:15,840 群峰挽留冬日的时长冠绝全英 where the high tops hang onto winter longer than anywhere else. 323 00:19:18,880 --> 00:19:23,600 今日严寒导致机体结冰 In fact, it's so cold today that the microlight begins to freeze up, 324 00:19:23,600 --> 00:19:27,080 危险冰层覆盖机身 coating the airframe in a dangerous layer of ice. 325 00:19:28,280 --> 00:19:30,480 我们被迫返航 We're forced to turn back 326 00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:33,360 几周后才得以 and it's not until several weeks later 327 00:19:33,360 --> 00:19:36,360 再次升空 that we can take to the skies again. 328 00:19:36,360 --> 00:19:39,240 但此时积雪似乎 But this time, the snow seems to have vanished 329 00:19:39,240 --> 00:19:41,440 仅存于最高峰顶 from all but the highest summits. 330 00:19:41,440 --> 00:19:44,840 '这注定是毕生难忘的飞行' 'It's the flight of a lifetime,' 331 00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:48,040 壮丽的本尼维斯山尽收眼底 with magnificent views of the mighty Ben Nevis, 332 00:19:48,040 --> 00:19:49,440 正是我的攀登目标 which I want to climb. 333 00:19:49,440 --> 00:19:53,320 这座山极具欺骗性 Ben Nevis is a deceptive mountain. 334 00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:57,600 多数角度看去只是座圆顶丘陵 From most angles, it looks like a great, rounded lump of a hill 335 00:19:57,600 --> 00:19:59,720 终年云雾缭绕 with its head forever in the clouds 336 00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:04,040 航拍才展现其隐秘核心 but from the air, it reveals its secret heart. 337 00:20:04,040 --> 00:20:06,240 巨大的冰斗与峭壁 The great corrie and cliffs, 338 00:20:06,240 --> 00:20:08,720 布满积雪深沟 riven with deep, snow-filled gullies, 339 00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:11,400 自维多利亚时代就是 have been home to Scottish winter mountaineering 340 00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:13,680 苏格兰冬季登山圣地 since Victorian times. 341 00:20:16,520 --> 00:20:22,520 海拔4408英尺的英国最高峰 At 4,408 feet, Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in Britain. 342 00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:26,200 我计划沿下方冰沟登顶 And it's up the gully below us that I hope to reach the summit. 343 00:20:28,240 --> 00:20:31,280 这绝非最轻松的路线 This won't be the easiest route up the Ben. 344 00:20:31,280 --> 00:20:33,520 早在登山者到来前 But long before climbers arrived, 345 00:20:33,520 --> 00:20:35,960 游客就沿迂回路线 tourists were making the long slog, 346 00:20:35,960 --> 00:20:40,320 徒步绕过壮丽峭壁 walking a route that completely bypasses the spectacular cliffs. 347 00:20:42,120 --> 00:20:43,760 为省力气 To make it even easier, 348 00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:46,960 还可租马匹与向导 you could hire a pony and guide to take you up. 349 00:20:46,960 --> 00:20:51,400 1916年更有狂人 And in 1916, an almost effortless ascent was made 350 00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:53,920 驾车登顶的壮举 when someone drove a car to the top! 351 00:20:55,160 --> 00:20:57,640 这条路线火爆到 The tourist route proved so popular 352 00:20:57,640 --> 00:21:00,520 山顶建起小旅馆 that a small hotel was built at the summit, 353 00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:04,840 为疲惫旅人提供简易住宿 offering rudimentary accommodation to weary walkers. 354 00:21:04,840 --> 00:21:07,560 但绅士们渴求 But this is unadventurous stuff. 355 00:21:07,560 --> 00:21:11,680 更具挑战性的周末冒险 Sporting gents wanted something more challenging for the weekend 356 00:21:11,680 --> 00:21:14,640 在北坡找到 and they found it in huge abundance 357 00:21:14,640 --> 00:21:16,920 无限可能 on the mighty North Face. 358 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:22,280 航拍冻僵的身体回暖后 Having thawed out after my freezing flight, 359 00:21:22,280 --> 00:21:27,560 我与登山向导戴夫·麦克劳德会合 I'm meeting up with mountaineer and climbing guide Dave Macleod. 360 00:21:27,560 --> 00:21:30,760 我欲追随早期登山者足迹 I want to follow in the footsteps of the early mountaineers 361 00:21:30,760 --> 00:21:34,080 戴夫将带我体验经典冬季路线 and Dave is going to take me on a classic winter route 362 00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:35,680 登顶本尼维斯 to the summit of the Ben. 363 00:21:37,400 --> 00:21:40,040 这里的峭壁最接近 The great cliffs of the Ben are as close as we can get 364 00:21:40,040 --> 00:21:43,320 瑞士与阿尔卑斯的巨岩绝壁 to the big rock faces in Switzerland and the Alps 365 00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:47,000 冬季攀登极具挑战 and in winter, they can be hugely challenging. 366 00:21:48,040 --> 00:21:51,160 虽海拔不高 It might be a small mountain in terms of height, 367 00:21:51,160 --> 00:21:54,840 冬季攀登本尼维斯 but a winter climb on the Ben is a serious undertaking 368 00:21:54,840 --> 00:21:58,000 堪称欧洲顶级难度 and ranks with the best in Europe. 369 00:21:58,000 --> 00:22:02,920 两小时跋涉后抵达 Slogging uphill for a couple of hours, we arrive at a small building 370 00:22:02,920 --> 00:22:06,720 登山界著名的CIC纪念小屋 known in climbing circles as the CIC Memorial hut. 371 00:22:09,040 --> 00:22:12,080 戴夫 这小屋有何典故？ So, Dave, what's the story behind this hut? Because to be honest, 372 00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:15,480 半山出现建筑实在意外 it's the last thing I'd expect to see halfway up Ben Nevis. 373 00:22:15,480 --> 00:22:17,480 这是CIC小屋 Yeah, this is the CIC Hut. 374 00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:20,120 苏格兰独此一家 It's the only hut of its type in Scotland, really. 375 00:22:20,120 --> 00:22:23,680 这类高山小屋 This kind of mountain hut high up in the corries 376 00:22:23,680 --> 00:22:26,200 在阿尔卑斯很常见 is something that's quite popular in the Alps 377 00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:28,600 我国仅此一座 but this is the only one we've got in this country. 378 00:22:28,600 --> 00:22:31,240 - 算是苏格兰版阿尔卑斯小屋 - 正是 - So this is our very own Alpine hut... - It is indeed, yeah. 379 00:22:31,240 --> 00:22:32,760 坐落阿尔卑斯式环境 ..here, in an Alpine setting. 380 00:22:32,760 --> 00:22:36,440 1927年建成至今 It is, yeah. It's been here since 1927, when it was first built 381 00:22:36,440 --> 00:22:41,000 见证本尼维斯登山史 so it's played a massive part in the history of climbing on Ben Nevis 382 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,400 乃至整个苏格兰 but also in Scotland as well. 383 00:22:46,520 --> 00:22:49,480 离开小屋一小时后 An hour out from the CIC Hut, 384 00:22:49,480 --> 00:22:53,280 我们戴上头盔冰爪 手握冰镐 Dave and I don helmets, crampons and ice axes 385 00:22:53,280 --> 00:22:55,840 正式开启攀登 and begin our climb in earnest. 386 00:22:57,520 --> 00:23:00,040 - 戴夫 稍作休息 - 好 - OK, Dave, we're just taking a wee breather. - Yeah. 387 00:23:00,040 --> 00:23:02,160 周围都是登山者 And there are climbers all around us. 388 00:23:02,160 --> 00:23:03,800 某种意义上 But in many ways, 389 00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:06,720 苏格兰登山运动 this is where mountaineering in Scotland really began, 390 00:23:06,720 --> 00:23:09,000 尤其冬季登山源于此地 winter mountaineering especially. 391 00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:11,640 原因很明显 It did. I mean, the obvious reason why 392 00:23:11,640 --> 00:23:14,520 这里积雪深厚 is because this holds so much snow 393 00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:16,880 冬季完全变样 and it totally transforms in winter. 394 00:23:16,880 --> 00:23:20,160 冰沟积雪深达数十米 The gullies fill up with, like, tens of metres of snow 395 00:23:20,160 --> 00:23:22,960 冰层存续半年 and it forms ice that lasts for half the year 396 00:23:22,960 --> 00:23:25,560 最初登山者为阿尔卑斯训练而来 so it's obvious that climbers came here, 397 00:23:25,560 --> 00:23:27,520 很快发现其独特价值 at first for training for the Alps... 398 00:23:27,520 --> 00:23:29,560 - 没错 - 继而 - Right. - But then very quickly 399 00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:33,320 将本尼维斯路线视为挑战目标 they could see that it had a value and enjoyment in its own right. 400 00:23:33,320 --> 00:23:36,320 冰沟是最早开发的路线吗？ And they started to look at the routes on Ben Nevis especially 401 00:23:36,320 --> 00:23:37,960 作为明确目标 as being obvious targets. 402 00:23:37,960 --> 00:23:40,960 本尼维斯大冰沟 Were the gullies some of the first routes that were developed? 403 00:23:40,960 --> 00:23:45,560 堪称英国冬季登山发源地 The big gullies of Ben Nevis were the first routes in the UK, really, 404 00:23:45,560 --> 00:23:49,240 19世纪末登山者们 in winter, and they were identified 405 00:23:49,240 --> 00:23:51,760 竞相征服这些路线 and picked off one by one by the climbers 406 00:23:51,760 --> 00:23:54,040 视其为无上荣耀 and they were held in really high regard 407 00:23:54,040 --> 00:23:56,000 展开激烈角逐 and there was really a race for them 408 00:23:56,000 --> 00:23:58,720 among the groups of climbers there were. 409 00:23:58,720 --> 00:24:01,160 And this is in the 1880s, 1890s. 410 00:24:06,000 --> 00:24:10,280 今日攀登的"喊泉冰沟" The climb Dave is taking me up today is called Gardyloo Gully, 411 00:24:10,280 --> 00:24:14,440 是维多利亚时代穿粗花呢的 a classic that was pioneered in Victorian times 412 00:24:14,440 --> 00:24:16,480 先驱者开拓的经典路线 by men dressed in tweed. 413 00:24:16,480 --> 00:24:19,360 可惜国家荣誉被 But sadly for national pride, 414 00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:22,240 英国登山者率先摘取 English climbers made the first impression on the Ben. 415 00:24:22,240 --> 00:24:24,440 1897年4月 In April 1897, 416 00:24:24,440 --> 00:24:28,480 三名英国人首登喊泉冰沟 three Englishmen climbed Gardyloo Gully for the first time, 417 00:24:28,480 --> 00:24:34,680 约翰·贝格目睹另一队登顶塔楼冰沟 while another ascent was made of Tower Gully, witnessed by John Begg. 418 00:24:34,680 --> 00:24:37,160 "他们绳索冰镐齐备 "Up this with ropes, ice axes, 419 00:24:37,160 --> 00:24:40,480 "来自英国阿尔卑斯俱乐部 "came three members of the English Alpine Club. 420 00:24:40,480 --> 00:24:43,640 "看似鲁莽冒险 "It certainly seemed a rash and foolhardy experiment, 421 00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:46,400 "但六小时艰险攀登后 "but their coolness and courage were rewarded 422 00:24:46,400 --> 00:24:48,280 "冷静与勇气终获回报 "after six hours of hard work 423 00:24:48,280 --> 00:24:50,800 "安全登顶" "by their reaching the summit in safety." 424 00:24:55,360 --> 00:24:58,760 '我开始紧张了 'I'm beginning to feel nervous now. 425 00:24:58,760 --> 00:25:01,720 '高耸峭壁的压迫感 'The sheer scale of the towering cliffs 426 00:25:01,720 --> 00:25:03,520 '令人窒息 'is very intimidating. 427 00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:07,200 '该系绳直面恐惧了' 'It's time to rope up and face down my fears.' 428 00:25:07,200 --> 00:25:09,400 冰沟为何叫"喊泉"？ Where did it get the name Gardyloo Gully? 429 00:25:09,400 --> 00:25:12,480 源自山顶气象站 Well, it comes from the summit observatory, 430 00:25:12,480 --> 00:25:14,640 旅馆和气象站的旧俗 and hotel and meteorological station. 431 00:25:14,640 --> 00:25:16,200 当真？ Really? 432 00:25:16,200 --> 00:25:18,520 为处理垃圾... And to get rid of their rubbish... 433 00:25:18,520 --> 00:25:20,720 - 不会吧 - 直接倾倒悬崖 - Oh, they didn't? - They'd tip it over the edge. 434 00:25:20,720 --> 00:25:22,640 太不环保了 That's not very environmentally friendly. 435 00:25:22,640 --> 00:25:26,600 "喊泉"是爱丁堡旧时 Hence the call, "Gardyloo," which was what they used to shout in Edinburgh 436 00:25:26,600 --> 00:25:30,280 倾倒污水时的警告语 when they threw their rubbish and water out of the window. 437 00:25:33,560 --> 00:25:37,240 喊泉冰沟属三级冬季路线 Gardyloo Gully is an easy Grade Three winter route - 438 00:25:37,240 --> 00:25:42,200 对戴夫这样的老手算简单 easy, that is, if you're an experienced mountaineer like Dave. 439 00:25:42,200 --> 00:25:46,120 但对我而言 这条 But for me, this narrow finger of steep snow and ice, 440 00:25:46,120 --> 00:25:48,360 贯穿冰斗的陡峭冰舌 slicing through the upper corrie, 441 00:25:48,360 --> 00:25:50,160 令人望而生畏 is a forbidding place to be. 442 00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:57,240 '关键路段是距峰顶两百英尺处 'The crux pitch of Gardyloo Gully is a curious ice tunnel, 443 00:25:57,240 --> 00:26:00,080 '一处奇特的冰隧道 'a couple of hundred feet beneath the summit. 444 00:26:01,920 --> 00:26:05,560 '钻越时如同 'Wriggling up this unusual feature is a weird experience, 445 00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:08,080 '被困冰窟般诡异 'like being trapped in a hole. 446 00:26:09,600 --> 00:26:13,000 '此刻粉雪倾泻 'Now I'm caught in a torrent of powder snow 447 00:26:13,000 --> 00:26:14,920 '遮蔽视线' 'that completely blinds me.' 448 00:26:15,960 --> 00:26:18,120 什么都看不见！ I can't see a thing! 449 00:26:18,120 --> 00:26:21,920 '这场残酷消耗战 'This is a brutal struggle, and saps all the reserves I have 450 00:26:21,920 --> 00:26:24,920 '未登顶已体力殆尽' 'even before I've got to the summit.' 451 00:26:24,920 --> 00:26:26,240 【喘息声】 HE PANTS 452 00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:28,520 终于... Well... 453 00:26:28,520 --> 00:26:29,960 脱困了！ I'm out of the hole! 454 00:26:31,400 --> 00:26:35,200 简直是地狱般的冰窟 Was a hell of a hole to be in, can tell you. 455 00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:41,440 '戴夫轻松攻克最后路段 'Leaving me to regain my composure, 456 00:26:41,440 --> 00:26:46,400 '在峰顶平台准备接应 'Dave effortlessly scales the last pitch to the summit plateau, 457 00:26:46,400 --> 00:26:48,280 '精疲力尽的我' 'where he prepares to bring me up.' 458 00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:51,600 要命了！ Killing me! 459 00:26:51,600 --> 00:26:54,520 真要命了！ Absolutely killing me! 460 00:26:54,520 --> 00:26:58,600 '但肌肉酸痛乏力 'But it's a struggle against tired and aching muscles. 461 00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:02,440 '恶化天气中 'I feel so weak I can barely find the strength 462 00:27:02,440 --> 00:27:04,840 '拼尽最后气力 'to climb the last few metres 463 00:27:04,840 --> 00:27:07,800 '攀登最后几米' 'in weather that's rapidly deteriorating.' 464 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,080 累垮了！ It's knackering! 465 00:27:11,800 --> 00:27:14,800 '耗时六小时抵达时 'It's taken over six hours to get this far 466 00:27:14,800 --> 00:27:17,880 '天气已完全恶化 'and now the weather has completely closed in. 467 00:27:19,400 --> 00:27:21,680 '穿越雪原时 'As we make our way across the snow, 468 00:27:21,680 --> 00:27:25,600 '途经古老气象站遗址 'we pass the ruins of the old weather observatory. 469 00:27:25,600 --> 00:27:28,320 '曾提供住宿的旅馆 'Of the hotel that once offered a bed for the night, 470 00:27:28,320 --> 00:27:30,320 '已无迹可寻' 'there's nothing to be seen at all.' 471 00:27:30,320 --> 00:27:33,240 若还在营业多好 Would be nice it was still open. 472 00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:34,720 真想喝一杯 Could do with a pint. 473 00:27:36,320 --> 00:27:37,880 '虽无景可赏 'On the summit at last, 474 00:27:37,880 --> 00:27:41,440 '登顶的成就感足矣 'my sense of achievement compensates for the lack of a view. 475 00:27:41,440 --> 00:27:45,160 '我深知要感谢《布莱克指南》 'I also recognise that I have Black's to thank 476 00:27:45,160 --> 00:27:48,360 '成就这次冬季壮游 'for the culmination of my winter Grand Tour. 477 00:27:48,360 --> 00:27:52,720 '它是最早激发我冒险精神的指南 'It was the first book to inspire me with a sense of adventure. 478 00:27:52,720 --> 00:27:55,400 '带我探索阿伦岛岩潭 'It's taken me from the rock pools of Arran 479 00:27:55,400 --> 00:27:57,440 '至索尔威湾 'to the Solway Firth, 480 00:27:57,440 --> 00:27:59,800 '从格伦伊格尔斯奢华 'from the glamour of Gleneagles 481 00:27:59,800 --> 00:28:02,040 '到艾尔赛马场 'to the racecourses of Ayr. 482 00:28:02,040 --> 00:28:04,000 '从罗斯郡荒野 'From the wilds of Ross-shire 483 00:28:04,000 --> 00:28:08,000 '到家门口的冬季仙境' 'to a winter wonderland on our doorstep.' 484 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:11,520 苏格兰虽非真正的瑞士或阿尔卑斯 Scotland may not really be like Switzerland or the Alps, 485 00:28:11,520 --> 00:28:14,040 但这未尝不好 but maybe that's just as well. 486 00:28:14,040 --> 00:28:17,160 苏格兰自有其 Scotland is Scotland, after all, 487 00:28:17,160 --> 00:28:21,200 独特魅力与价值 and should be understood and appreciated in her own right. 488 00:28:21,200 --> 00:28:24,120 不仅是美丽的国度 This isn't just a beautiful country, 489 00:28:24,120 --> 00:28:25,680 更是壮丽的传奇 it's magnificent. 490 00:28:25,680 --> 00:28:28,360 正如这本《布莱克指南》所示 And as my old Black's Guidebook shows, 491 00:28:28,360 --> 00:28:31,120 世间再无其二 there's nowhere else like it on earth. 492 00:28:53,840 --> 00:28:56,400 字幕由Red Bee Media Ltd提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd