1 00:00:02,040 --> 00:00:06,800 苏格兰壮丽的自然风光是其魅力所在 The dramatic landscape of Scotland is a big part of 2 00:00:06,800 --> 00:00:10,080 但最早一批游客却被截然不同的事物 the country's appeal. But some of the first tourists 3 00:00:10,080 --> 00:00:14,040 所吸引 were attracted by something quite different. 4 00:00:14,040 --> 00:00:17,880 他们是前来朝圣的狂热粉丝 They were fans on a pilgrimage. 5 00:00:17,880 --> 00:00:22,320 为瞻仰与首位国际巨星罗伯特·彭斯 They came to see all the sights associated with the life 6 00:00:22,320 --> 00:00:26,280 生平相关的所有景点 of one of the first global superstars, Robert Burns - 7 00:00:26,280 --> 00:00:30,240 这位让艾尔郡声名远扬的诗人 the man who made Ayrshire famous. 8 00:00:32,600 --> 00:00:35,120 为服务文学爱好者 To cater for these literary fans, 9 00:00:35,120 --> 00:00:38,000 《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》 Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland 10 00:00:38,000 --> 00:00:41,200 迅速提供了指引 was quick to offer help and encouragement. 11 00:00:41,200 --> 00:00:43,600 这本引人入胜的古籍 A copy of this fascinating old book 12 00:00:43,600 --> 00:00:46,720 在我家传承数代 has been in my family for generations. 13 00:00:46,720 --> 00:00:49,560 全家度假时总被放在父亲汽车 It was always kept in the glove compartment 14 00:00:49,560 --> 00:00:52,880 的手套箱里 of my father's car when we went on holiday. 15 00:00:54,640 --> 00:00:58,040 四十年后 我借助布莱克指南 40 years on, I'm using Black's to inspire me 16 00:00:58,040 --> 00:01:00,600 开启苏格兰探索之旅 on my own journeys across Scotland. 17 00:01:00,600 --> 00:01:06,640 此刻它引领我来到艾尔郡 探访彭斯的故土 And it's brought me to Ayrshire to discover the land of Burns. 18 00:01:19,560 --> 00:01:22,360 我的壮游始于阿洛韦 My grand tour begins in Alloway, 19 00:01:22,360 --> 00:01:25,040 这位苏格兰吟游诗人的诞生地 the birthplace of Scotland's bard. 20 00:01:25,040 --> 00:01:29,040 随后我将沿海岸北行 体验度假营地 I then head up the coast to discover the delights of holiday camps 21 00:01:29,040 --> 00:01:33,160 与冰淇淋的乐趣 再续彭斯足迹前往莫克林 and ice cream, before rejoining the Burns trail to Mauchline 22 00:01:33,160 --> 00:01:36,760 并在艾尔赛马场小试手气 and a flutter at the Ayr races. 23 00:01:37,720 --> 00:01:40,120 这是阿洛韦的老教堂 This is the old kirk at Alloway. 24 00:01:42,080 --> 00:01:46,080 堪称苏格兰最著名的教堂遗址 Probably the most famous ruined church in Scotland. 25 00:01:50,160 --> 00:01:54,080 "透过呻吟的树丛微光闪烁 "Glimmering thro' the groaning trees 26 00:01:54,080 --> 00:01:56,920 "阿洛韦教堂似在燃烧 "Kirk-Alloway seem'd in a bleeze 27 00:01:56,920 --> 00:02:00,360 "每道裂缝透出刺目光芒 "Thro' ilka bore the beams were glancing 28 00:02:00,360 --> 00:02:04,360 "欢声舞步震耳欲聋" "And loud resounded mirth and dancing." 29 00:02:06,440 --> 00:02:09,680 在彭斯名诗《汤姆·奥桑特》中 In Burns' celebrated poem Tam o'Shanter 30 00:02:09,680 --> 00:02:13,520 醉酒的汤姆在此目睹 this is where the drunken Tam witnesses a group 31 00:02:13,520 --> 00:02:16,600 群魔与撒旦共舞的景象 of witches and warlocks dancing with the devil. 32 00:02:19,200 --> 00:02:25,880 这首诗1791年出版后轰动一时 Published in 1791, the poem was a rip-roaring success 33 00:02:25,880 --> 00:02:29,560 很快粉丝们纷至沓来 and soon fans began arriving here to see for themselves 34 00:02:29,560 --> 00:02:33,480 探寻彭斯的灵感源泉 the source of Burns' inspiration. And from the old kirk, 35 00:02:33,480 --> 00:02:36,240 他们开始向乡野扩散 they began spreading out across the countryside 36 00:02:36,240 --> 00:02:40,640 寻找与诗坛英雄的其他关联 looking for other connections with their poetic hero. 37 00:02:41,640 --> 00:02:44,360 彭斯1796年贫病而终 Burns died in poverty in 1796, 38 00:02:44,360 --> 00:02:46,840 但彭斯热才刚兴起 but the cult of Burns was just beginning. 39 00:02:46,840 --> 00:02:48,600 好的 埃里克... Right, Eric... 40 00:02:48,600 --> 00:02:51,080 "我随历史学家埃里克·佐洛 'Joining historian Eric Zeulow, 41 00:02:51,080 --> 00:02:55,080 "开启彭斯之地的双人之旅" 'I'm on a tandem tour of the land o' Burns.' 42 00:02:56,840 --> 00:03:00,480 这里很快成为旅游胜地了吧？ It didn't take long for this area to become a tourist attraction did it? 43 00:03:00,480 --> 00:03:03,280 是的 诗人去世后一年左右 No. First tourists started coming within a year or so 44 00:03:03,280 --> 00:03:07,080 首批游客就来了 之后越来越多 of the poet's death and then more and more and more started coming. 45 00:03:07,080 --> 00:03:11,840 值得注意的是 彭斯旅游是继英格兰 And it's striking that really Burns tourism is the second literary 46 00:03:11,840 --> 00:03:15,800 斯特拉特福之后兴起的第二大文学旅游 branch of tourism to start up after Stratford-upon-Avon in England. 47 00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:21,040 这里后来成为举世闻名的彭斯之乡？ And this became celebrated the world over as the land of Burns? 48 00:03:21,040 --> 00:03:24,080 约1820年有本指南书名就是 Yeah, there was a guide book in about 1820 that had those 49 00:03:24,080 --> 00:03:27,960 "彭斯之乡" 1840年又出了图文集 words in the title and then a picture book came out in 1840 50 00:03:27,960 --> 00:03:30,960 包含大量图片故事等内容 with lots of pictures and stories and more. 51 00:03:34,680 --> 00:03:37,920 这本早期指南配有画家 This early guide book with its beautiful illustrations 52 00:03:37,920 --> 00:03:40,040 大卫·希尔的精美插画 by the painter David Hill, 53 00:03:40,040 --> 00:03:42,720 极大推动了这类新型旅游 did much to encourage this new breed of tourist. 54 00:03:42,720 --> 00:03:44,320 这样游览太棒了 埃里克 This is the way to travel, Eric. 55 00:03:44,320 --> 00:03:45,600 妙极了 This is great. 56 00:03:45,600 --> 00:03:48,520 "怀揣彭斯诗集 'And clutching their copies of Burns' poems, 57 00:03:48,520 --> 00:03:51,720 "世界各地的游客接踵而至" 'they came here from all over the world.' 58 00:03:51,720 --> 00:03:53,800 往拱顶石方向 往拱顶石 Up to the keystone, up to the keystone. 59 00:03:55,480 --> 00:03:58,240 汤姆·奥桑特在越过老杜恩桥后 This is where Tam o'Shanter was saved from the clutches 60 00:03:58,240 --> 00:04:01,200 正是在此摆脱女巫的魔爪 of the witches after he'd crossed over the old Brig O'Doon. 61 00:04:01,200 --> 00:04:02,720 风景绝美之地 An absolutely gorgeous location. 62 00:04:02,720 --> 00:04:07,080 这里堪称世俗化的朝圣地 These were pilgrimage sites in a way. It's kind of a secular pilgrimage. 63 00:04:07,080 --> 00:04:11,080 游客来此体验诗歌 Tourists coming here were coming to experience the poems, 64 00:04:11,080 --> 00:04:15,400 感受孕育诗篇的土地 experience the place in which those poems were created, 65 00:04:15,400 --> 00:04:17,840 或许还能触及诗人的心灵 and to maybe get into the mind of the poet. 66 00:04:17,840 --> 00:04:23,320 此地既是现实存在 也是想象建构 And the place is as much an imagined thing as it is a reality. 67 00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:25,840 他们不只是来看风景的吧？ And I guess they weren't just coming for views, were they? 68 00:04:25,840 --> 00:04:29,680 是为感受与彭斯产生联结的所在 They were coming to be in a place that had a connection with Burns. 69 00:04:29,680 --> 00:04:31,360 确实如此 Oh, I think that's absolutely right. 70 00:04:31,360 --> 00:04:35,240 诗歌描绘出鲜活的场景 They, the poems paint a vivid image of place 71 00:04:35,240 --> 00:04:38,880 他们想亲身体验 and so they wanted to come and experience that 72 00:04:38,880 --> 00:04:41,720 借此走进诗人的精神世界 and by doing that, step into the mind of the poet. 73 00:04:43,080 --> 00:04:47,080 最能体现"天授耕农"浪漫形象的 And nowhere better encapsulated the romantic image 74 00:04:47,080 --> 00:04:51,000 莫过于诗人简朴的出生地 of The heaven-taught Ploughman than the poet's humble birthplace. 75 00:04:51,000 --> 00:04:55,920 -我们到了 -彭斯小屋 好极了 - Here we are. - Burns' cottage. All right. 76 00:04:55,920 --> 00:04:59,360 想到这位诗歌天才出身如此寒微 But it's a really intriguing thought when you realise that this 77 00:04:59,360 --> 00:05:01,920 实在引人深思 great poetic genius did come from such a lowly background. 78 00:05:01,920 --> 00:05:04,720 早期游客对此地 What did early tourists make of the experience 79 00:05:04,720 --> 00:05:06,480 有何评价？ of coming to Burns' cottage? 80 00:05:06,480 --> 00:05:08,480 评价两极 Mixed views, I'm afraid. 81 00:05:08,480 --> 00:05:11,720 有人为之倾倒 I think some people were charmed by it. 82 00:05:11,720 --> 00:05:14,160 也有人——包括一些名人 There were others, and some of them pretty notable 83 00:05:14,160 --> 00:05:18,080 比如约翰·济慈来访时发现 John Keats, for example came and found that it had been 84 00:05:18,080 --> 00:05:19,680 这里变成了酒馆 turned into a pub. 85 00:05:19,680 --> 00:05:21,880 这彻底粉碎了他的... And this absolutely shattered his... 86 00:05:21,880 --> 00:05:24,600 他原本满怀... I mean, he'd built... He had built this up. 87 00:05:24,600 --> 00:05:27,480 这是他心心念念的地方 This was something he'd been talking about and writing about. 88 00:05:27,480 --> 00:05:29,720 期待甚高 结果大失所望 Oh, it was going to be so great and then he gets here 89 00:05:29,720 --> 00:05:31,680 理想幻灭 and it was just, it was shattering. 90 00:05:31,680 --> 00:05:37,320 美国作家纳撒尼尔·霍桑来访后评价 Nathaniel Hawthorne, the American author, came here and he commented 91 00:05:37,320 --> 00:05:43,280 阿洛韦教堂小得离谱 小屋臭气熏天 that the Alloway kirk was impossibly small and the cottage stank. 92 00:05:43,280 --> 00:05:45,240 -有臭味？ -有气味 - It stank? - Smelled. 93 00:05:45,240 --> 00:05:47,960 -农场当然有味道 -正是 - Well, it was a farm, course it stank. - Exactly. 94 00:05:47,960 --> 00:05:49,360 这才是现实对吧？ And that's the reality isn't it? 95 00:05:49,360 --> 00:05:51,600 济慈期待的是另一番景象 I mean, Keats came looking for something else, 96 00:05:51,600 --> 00:05:54,440 现实所见不合他心意 but the reality he found here wasn't quite to his taste. 97 00:05:54,440 --> 00:05:55,520 但旅行时... Yes, but you're... 98 00:05:55,520 --> 00:05:58,640 人们寻求的并非现实 When you're travelling you're not expecting reality, 99 00:05:58,640 --> 00:06:01,840 而是自以为的原真性 you're expecting what you imagined to be authenticity. 100 00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:04,720 -确实 -全凭想象 - Right. - And that's all in your head. 101 00:06:04,720 --> 00:06:08,120 尽管最初有人失望 But despite some initial disappointment, 102 00:06:08,120 --> 00:06:10,480 文学朝圣者仍络绎不绝 the literary pilgrims kept coming, 103 00:06:10,480 --> 00:06:15,120 此后数十年游客数量持续增长 and throughout the following decades visitor numbers increased. 104 00:06:15,120 --> 00:06:18,080 渐渐地人们开始意识到 Gradually folk began to realise 105 00:06:18,080 --> 00:06:21,120 这些游客身上有利可图 that there was a buck to be made out of all these tourists. 106 00:06:21,120 --> 00:06:25,560 农舍的管理员是75岁仍精神矍铄的汤姆·麦克明 The curator of the cottage is Tom McMinn, 75 years young. 107 00:06:25,560 --> 00:06:29,320 这里有名人造访过吗？ Do you ever get any famous people here? 108 00:06:29,320 --> 00:06:32,840 名人？先生，他们可是从天涯海角赶来 Famous people, sir? They come from the outermost ends of the earth. 109 00:06:32,840 --> 00:06:36,960 我见过克拉克·盖博、欧文·柏林 I've met Clark Gable, Irvine Berlin, 110 00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:38,560 拳击手乔·路易斯 Joe Louis the boxer, 111 00:06:38,560 --> 00:06:43,360 是啊，我还在同一天见过威尔士亲王和乞丐 aye, and I've met the Prince of Wales and a beggar man on the same day. 112 00:06:45,160 --> 00:06:47,680 如今仍有成千上万的游客前来 Today they still come in their thousands, 113 00:06:47,680 --> 00:06:51,520 让阿洛韦成了文学主题公园 making Alloway a kind of literary theme park. 114 00:06:51,520 --> 00:06:53,640 - 规模真庞大 - 他们吃什么？ - That is enormous. - What do they eat? 115 00:06:53,640 --> 00:06:56,680 游客啊（他大笑） Tourists. HE LAUGHS 116 00:07:00,480 --> 00:07:03,200 彭斯确实功不可没 Burns certainly played a major part 117 00:07:03,200 --> 00:07:06,800 让艾尔郡登上了世界旅游版图 in putting Ayrshire on the world tourist map. 118 00:07:08,600 --> 00:07:12,880 现在我正沿海岸前往艾尔镇 I'm now heading up the coast to Ayr to find out about another man 119 00:07:12,880 --> 00:07:16,080 去探访另一位吸引游客涌入苏格兰此地的人物 who brought tourists flocking to this part of Scotland. 120 00:07:20,000 --> 00:07:23,440 二战结束后的那几年 In the years immediately following the Second World War, 121 00:07:23,440 --> 00:07:26,880 人们度假时总想找点乐子 people wanted to have a bit of fun when they went on holiday. 122 00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:29,840 为此他们求助的不是罗伯特·彭斯 And for that they turned not to Robert Burns, 123 00:07:29,840 --> 00:07:32,720 而是比利·布特林 but to Billy Butlin. 124 00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:37,360 度假营的核心理念 The whole idea behind the holiday camp 125 00:07:37,360 --> 00:07:42,440 是在一个地方提供全包式娱乐服务 was to provide an all-inclusive entertainment package at one location. 126 00:07:42,440 --> 00:07:46,120 其灵感源自比利·布特林亲身体验过的 It was actually inspired by Billy Butlin's own experience 127 00:07:46,120 --> 00:07:48,320 英国传统海滨假日—— of the great British seaside holiday, 128 00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:53,040 那时游客早晨常被赶出寄宿公寓 where guests were regularly thrown out of their boarding houses in the morning, 129 00:07:53,040 --> 00:07:56,320 直到下午茶时间才能返回 couldn't get back in again until tea-time, 130 00:07:56,320 --> 00:08:00,280 无处可去也无事可做 with nothing to do and nowhere to go. 131 00:08:00,280 --> 00:08:04,800 但很快情况改变，欢乐的度假者踩着踏板奔向更光明的未来 But soon that changed and happy holiday-makers were pedalling to a brighter future. 132 00:08:07,320 --> 00:08:13,800 艾尔镇的布特林度假营1947年开业，理念很简单—— The Butlins camp at Ayr opened in 1947 and the philosophy was simple - 133 00:08:13,800 --> 00:08:16,400 一周工资换一周假期 a week's holiday for a week's pay. 134 00:08:18,200 --> 00:08:23,400 旧营地早已被现代化度假公园取代 The original camp has long gone, replaced by a modern holiday park. 135 00:08:23,400 --> 00:08:28,240 在这里我见到了作家兼布特林粉丝凯瑟琳·费里 Here, I'm meeting writer and Butlins fan Kathryn Ferry. 136 00:08:28,240 --> 00:08:32,040 凯瑟琳，这里的景象和布特林全盛时期大不相同了吧？ Kathryn, I imagine the view has changed a lot since Butlin's heyday. 137 00:08:32,040 --> 00:08:35,000 确实，如今很难想象当初模样 Absolutely it has and you can't really visualise it today, 138 00:08:35,000 --> 00:08:39,160 但比利·布特林真正致力于营造度假氛围 but Billy Butlin was really all about creating a holiday atmosphere 139 00:08:39,160 --> 00:08:42,360 因此他的营地充满缤纷色彩 and so his camps had lots of colourful spaces in them 140 00:08:42,360 --> 00:08:43,760 这非常关键 and that was really important. 141 00:08:43,760 --> 00:08:47,080 所以即使下雨他也要呈现夏日色彩？ So he was providing the colour of summer even if was raining? 142 00:08:47,080 --> 00:08:49,240 没错，正是如此 Yeah, absolutely. That was the idea, yeah. 143 00:08:49,240 --> 00:08:52,480 想想战争年代全国都是灰暗色调 When you think how the country was just grey in the war years. 144 00:08:52,480 --> 00:08:55,040 比利·布特林精心设计营地 Billy Butlin designed the camps specifically 145 00:08:55,040 --> 00:08:58,560 营造出异域风情 so that they had this sort of air of another place. 146 00:08:58,560 --> 00:09:00,920 所有围栏都漆成三原色 All the fences were painted in primary colours 147 00:09:00,920 --> 00:09:04,080 营地挂满彩灯 and there fairy lights hanging up around the camp, 148 00:09:04,080 --> 00:09:06,960 花园里种满剑兰和玫瑰 and gardens with full gladioli and roses. 149 00:09:06,960 --> 00:09:09,680 真是五彩斑斓 I mean, really colourful. 150 00:09:09,680 --> 00:09:12,680 这里原本有露天泳池 There would have been, on the front here, the outdoor pool. 151 00:09:12,680 --> 00:09:15,920 还有从山上通往主建筑的缆车 and there was the cable car that brought you down from the hill 152 00:09:15,920 --> 00:09:19,520 - 直达主楼 - 缆车？ - 千真万确 - down to the main building. - Cable car? - Absolutely, yes. 153 00:09:19,520 --> 00:09:23,520 这竭力让游客感觉 It was very much an attempt to try and make people 154 00:09:23,520 --> 00:09:27,240 远离了日常琐碎生活 feel like they'd left the everyday workaday world behind. 155 00:09:41,400 --> 00:09:46,400 这套明信片制作于布特林鼎盛时期 This series of postcards, produced at the height of Butlins' popularity, 156 00:09:46,400 --> 00:09:49,160 将一切描绘得光鲜亮丽 make it all seem incredibly glamorous. 157 00:09:51,160 --> 00:09:54,320 英国民众对此趋之若鹜 And the British public kept coming back for more. 158 00:09:55,680 --> 00:10:00,600 这正是我幻想中在布特林能做的事 It's just the sort of thing that I always imagined you could do at Butlins. 159 00:10:00,600 --> 00:10:04,720 做些疯狂超现实的事，比如踩着巨型天鹅游天鹅湖 Do something crazy and surreal like pedal a giant swan on Swan Lake. 160 00:10:04,720 --> 00:10:07,440 是啊，布特林总有划船湖 Yeah. Butlins always had his boating lake. 161 00:10:07,440 --> 00:10:11,960 还为每个家庭成员举办各类比赛 But there were all sorts of competitions for every member of the family. 162 00:10:11,960 --> 00:10:16,240 比如魅力祖母赛、漂亮宝贝赛 So Glamorous Grandmother, there was the Bonny Baby competitions, 163 00:10:16,240 --> 00:10:21,200 选美比赛自然少不了，甚至还有最亮秃头赛 beauty contests of course. All sorts, even shiniest bald head. 164 00:10:21,200 --> 00:10:24,440 还有用筷子吃中餐比赛 There were competitions for eating Chinese food with chopsticks, 165 00:10:24,440 --> 00:10:26,360 那时这可算新鲜事 when that was a really new thing. 166 00:10:26,360 --> 00:10:29,000 疙瘩膝盖赛是什么来头？ Knobbly knee competitions. What was all that about? 167 00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:32,960 - 这是经典保留项目 - 充满自嘲精神，很英国吧？ - That's an old favourite that one. - It's all very self-mocking. Is that a very British thing? 168 00:10:32,960 --> 00:10:35,160 确实，但这是英国特色不是吗？ It is, but I think it's a very British trait isn't it? 169 00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:38,000 - 我们不太把自己当回事 - 就是，要是你... - We're not really taking ourselves too seriously. - No, no if you... 170 00:10:38,000 --> 00:10:41,760 - 骑着巨型天鹅还怎么严肃？ - 可不是 - And how could you be in a giant swan? - No, exactly. 171 00:10:41,760 --> 00:10:44,680 - 不好，我们好像在下沉 - 确实在下沉！ - Tell you what, we seem to be sinking here. - I think we are sinking! 172 00:10:44,680 --> 00:10:46,200 下沉得很厉害 I think seriously sinking, yes. 173 00:10:47,360 --> 00:10:52,160 到60年代中期，艾尔布特林已成为全国十大营地之一 By the mid-sixties, Butlins Ayr was one of ten camps nationwide. 174 00:10:52,160 --> 00:10:56,320 工薪阶层在此享受经济实惠的假期 Places where working people could enjoy an affordable holiday 175 00:10:56,320 --> 00:10:58,400 体验健康家庭乐趣 and good, clean family fun. 176 00:10:58,400 --> 00:11:01,520 即便雨天也不例外 Even when it rained. 177 00:11:01,520 --> 00:11:06,000 娱乐活动安排得如同军事行动般精确 And entertaining campers was executed with military precision. 178 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:12,280 这份1949年的活动表 A glance at this programme from 1949 179 00:11:12,280 --> 00:11:14,880 让你了解布特林体验 gives you an idea of just how closely 180 00:11:14,880 --> 00:11:17,560 的时间安排有多紧凑 the Butlins experience was timetabled. 181 00:11:17,560 --> 00:11:21,840 早上8点以"营员们早上好！"开场 The day kicks off at 8 o'clock with "Good morning campers!" 182 00:11:21,840 --> 00:11:26,600 10点是舞厅里的桑迪健身操 And then at 10 o'clock you had Keep Fit with Sandy in the Ballroom. 183 00:11:26,600 --> 00:11:30,360 11点剧院上演疯狂板球或《嗨！嗨！》 11 o'clock was Crazy Cricket or Hi De Hi in the theatre, 184 00:11:30,360 --> 00:11:34,240 下午2:15安静休息室 and at 2.15 was the children's Mannequin Competition 185 00:11:34,240 --> 00:11:38,200 举行儿童模特赛（那里可安静不了） in the Quiet Lounge, which wouldn't have been very quiet. 186 00:11:38,200 --> 00:11:42,200 晚上8:30是全明星摔跤赛 And then at 8.30 was the All-Star Wrestling Competition. 187 00:11:42,200 --> 00:11:47,320 10:30红衫军向离营者道别 10.30 the Redcoats say "Ta-ta, the Noo" to departing campers, 188 00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:51,720 午夜挖地道逃跑委员会开会 and at midnight the escape committee met to dig a tunnel. 189 00:11:51,720 --> 00:11:53,840 开个玩笑 Only joking. 190 00:11:54,920 --> 00:11:59,240 负责让度假者敞开心扉的 The people who were employed to bring holiday-makers out of their shells 191 00:11:59,240 --> 00:12:02,600 自然是红衫军 were, of course, the Redcoats. 192 00:12:02,600 --> 00:12:06,160 他们身兼组织者与表演者 Their role was part organiser and part entertainer, 193 00:12:06,160 --> 00:12:09,680 负责持续带来欢乐 responsible for keeping the fun and frolics going. 194 00:12:09,680 --> 00:12:12,440 - 伊恩，帮我穿上外套 - 我来效劳 - Ian, if you could help me on with the jacket. - I'll do the honours. 195 00:12:12,440 --> 00:12:14,560 多谢...正宗的... Oh, thanks... The real thing, the real... 196 00:12:14,560 --> 00:12:16,640 - 红衫军外套 - 如假包换 - ..Redcoat's jacket... - The real McCoy. 197 00:12:16,640 --> 00:12:19,760 为检验我是否合格，我见到了当年的红衫军 'And to see if I measure up, I'm meeting Frank and Ian 198 00:12:19,760 --> 00:12:22,440 弗兰克和伊恩 'who were Redcoats here at Ayr back in the day.' 199 00:12:22,440 --> 00:12:24,720 - 别忘了扣纽扣 - 这很重要？ - Don't forget the buttons. - Was that important? 200 00:12:24,720 --> 00:12:27,520 当然，必须时刻保持纽扣系好 Oh, yes. You had to keep the buttons fastened all the time. 201 00:12:27,520 --> 00:12:29,240 就算外套不合身也得穿 Didn't matter if the jacket didn't fit, 202 00:12:29,240 --> 00:12:30,760 纽扣必须扣好 you still had to put the buttons on. 203 00:12:30,760 --> 00:12:33,400 旺季末期我们只能领到剩的尺码 Yeah, sometimes we got late in the season, we got what was left. 204 00:12:33,400 --> 00:12:35,400 - 怎么样？ - 少了样东西 - What do you think? - There is one thing missing. 205 00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:36,880 - 有吗？ - 对 - 真的？ - There is something? - Yes. - Really? 206 00:12:36,880 --> 00:12:38,840 白手帕 要插在上衣口袋 White handkerchief. Goes in the top pocket. 207 00:12:38,840 --> 00:12:41,040 - 为什么手帕...？ - 这是传统 - Why is a handkerchief...? - It was the tradition. 208 00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:44,160 红衫军制服最后都要这样点缀 That was the finishing touch for any Redcoat uniform. 209 00:12:44,160 --> 00:12:47,360 - 衣着亮点 - 算是画龙点睛 - Sartorial flourish. - Yeah, it's just an added finish. 210 00:12:50,720 --> 00:12:52,160 你置身新世界 You were in a new world. 211 00:12:52,160 --> 00:12:55,800 大门之外不存在的奇幻天地 You were in a special world that didn't exist beyond those gates. 212 00:12:55,800 --> 00:12:57,440 必须时刻保持微笑 You had to be always smiling. 213 00:12:57,440 --> 00:13:00,680 遇见游客必须问好 You were not allowed to walk past people and not say "hello". 214 00:13:00,680 --> 00:13:03,400 还有机会小露才艺 You got a chance to do maybe a bit of performing as well. 215 00:13:05,160 --> 00:13:10,440 红衫军被视为通往星途的第一块跳板 And being a Redcoat was seen as the first rung on the ladder to stardom. 216 00:13:10,440 --> 00:13:14,840 德斯·奥康纳和艾拉·圣克莱尔都从艾尔营地起步 Des O'Connor and Isla St Clair started their careers at Ayr 217 00:13:14,840 --> 00:13:19,400 其他名人还包括查理·德雷克、吉米·塔布克 Amongst many other famous names were Charlie Drake, Jimmy Tarbuck, 218 00:13:19,400 --> 00:13:25,760 戴夫·艾伦、罗德·赫尔、"阶梯"乐队的H 现在当然还有保罗·默顿 Dave Allen, Rod Hull, H from Steps and now, of course, Paul Murton. 219 00:13:25,760 --> 00:13:29,480 - 准备好了吗？ - 开始吧 - 这是我应聘红衫军的试演 - You ready for this? - Go for it. - This is my audition for the part of a Redcoat. 220 00:13:29,480 --> 00:13:31,880 嗨迪嗨！ Hi De Hi! 221 00:13:31,880 --> 00:13:34,320 嗬迪嗬 完美 天生吃这碗饭的 Ho De Ho. Perfect. The man's a natural. 222 00:13:34,320 --> 00:13:35,560 录用我吧 Hire me. 223 00:13:39,200 --> 00:13:44,000 演艺圈的浮华或许是布特林的主要卖点 Showbiz razzmatazz may have been Butlins' big selling point, 224 00:13:44,000 --> 00:13:48,320 但阳光明媚时 所有人都涌向海滩 but when the sun was shining, everybody headed for the beach. 225 00:13:48,320 --> 00:13:51,680 这段海岸线有许多海滩可选 And there were many to choose from along this coast. 226 00:13:53,680 --> 00:13:56,480 我的下一站是索尔特科茨 My next stop is Saltcoats. 227 00:14:00,000 --> 00:14:02,760 地名源自它独特的历史 The name comes from its unusual history 228 00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:06,160 这里曾是海水晒盐之地 as a place where salt was harvested from the sea. 229 00:14:07,280 --> 00:14:11,080 鼎盛时期这里是热闹的海滨度假胜地 In its heyday, this was a busy seaside resort. 230 00:14:13,400 --> 00:14:17,040 1920年新建的滨海大道启用时 When its grand new esplanade opened in 1920, 231 00:14:17,040 --> 00:14:21,120 兴奋的一日游游客摩肩接踵 you could hardly move for excited day-trippers. 232 00:14:24,120 --> 00:14:26,840 今天我来探寻艾尔郡海岸 Today, I've come in search of what remains 233 00:14:26,840 --> 00:14:30,560 最受欢迎景点的遗迹 of one of the Ayrshire coast's most popular attractions. 234 00:14:32,440 --> 00:14:38,760 苏格兰最大人工潮汐池1930年代在此开放 Scotland's largest artificial tidal pool opened here in the 1930s. 235 00:14:38,760 --> 00:14:41,240 如今看来或许平平无奇 It may not be much to look at today, 236 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:44,200 但在当时确实非同凡响 but, back then, it really was something, 237 00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:46,920 沐浴者蜂拥而至 and bathers flocked here for an invigorating plunge 238 00:14:46,920 --> 00:14:48,880 在池中畅游 in its waters. 239 00:14:51,160 --> 00:14:54,840 但遗憾的是 如同如今许多海滨小镇 But, sadly, like many seaside towns today, 240 00:14:54,840 --> 00:14:58,720 索尔特科茨在1970年代逐渐没落 Saltcoats went into decline in the 1970s. 241 00:14:58,720 --> 00:15:02,600 这就是黄金时代仅存的痕迹 And this is all that's left of a golden era. 242 00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:04,680 实在令人唏嘘 This is pretty sad, really. 243 00:15:04,680 --> 00:15:07,680 整个场所被毁得所剩无几 The whole place has been trashed, and there's not much left. 244 00:15:07,680 --> 00:15:10,560 池中堆满各种垃圾 The pool is full of all kinds of rubbish 245 00:15:10,560 --> 00:15:13,480 瓶子、塑料袋 天知道还有什么 bottles, plastic bags, goodness knows what else. 246 00:15:13,480 --> 00:15:16,240 但我不会逃避责任 But I'm not one to shirk my responsibilities 247 00:15:16,240 --> 00:15:21,440 定要亲身体验苏格兰假日的真实感受 to get as close to the authentic experience of a Scottish holiday. 248 00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:26,440 于是穿着干式潜水服 我鼓起勇气体验 So, dressed in a dry-suit, I'm bracing myself to experience 249 00:15:26,440 --> 00:15:28,640 这个曾经的伟大运动场所 this once-great sporting venue. 250 00:15:31,240 --> 00:15:32,960 啊！ Ah! 251 00:15:35,280 --> 00:15:38,280 难以置信 夏日里这个泳池 It's hard to believe, but in the summer months this pool 252 00:15:38,280 --> 00:15:41,400 曾挤满尽情嬉戏的度假者 would have been packed with holiday-makers enjoying themselves. 253 00:15:41,400 --> 00:15:43,840 我能在这儿玩一整天！ I could spend all day out here! 254 00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:49,520 但国外温暖海域的诱惑 But the lure of warmer waters abroad 255 00:15:49,520 --> 00:15:51,920 可悲地终结了户外游泳的热潮 sadly spelt the end of the craze for outdoor bathing. 256 00:15:53,600 --> 00:15:55,960 不是我们变娇气了 就是海水变冷了 We've either got softer or it's got colder. 257 00:15:57,400 --> 00:16:01,280 如今这段海岸线只剩一座露天泳池 There's now only one outside pool left on this coastline. 258 00:16:05,760 --> 00:16:08,880 但漂浮在这座昔日辉煌泳池的废墟中 But floating in the ruins of this once grand pool, 259 00:16:08,880 --> 00:16:12,200 我仍能感受到当年的欢乐 I get a sense of the fun that was had here. 260 00:16:15,280 --> 00:16:17,400 该喝马提尼了！ It's Martini time! 261 00:16:19,200 --> 00:16:21,360 热水淋浴间在哪儿？ Now, where are the hot showers? 262 00:16:24,600 --> 00:16:28,680 游泳最能增进食欲 There's nothing like a swim to work up a good appetite. 263 00:16:28,680 --> 00:16:30,880 于是我又沿海岸北上来至拉格斯 So, I'm heading up the coast to Largs 264 00:16:30,880 --> 00:16:33,280 品尝传统海滨美食 for some traditional seaside cuisine. 265 00:16:35,560 --> 00:16:39,360 早期来拉格斯的游客并非总受待见 Early visitors to Largs weren't always made to feel welcome, 266 00:16:39,360 --> 00:16:41,480 正如《布莱克指南》所述 as Black's points out. 267 00:16:41,480 --> 00:16:44,160 1263年苏格兰国王在此 This is where the King of Scots defeated 268 00:16:44,160 --> 00:16:50,160 大败挪威国王哈康 "伤亡惨重" King Haco of Norway in 1263, "with great slaughter." 269 00:16:50,160 --> 00:16:54,040 如今胜利纪念碑仍矗立于此 Today a monument stands to that famous victory. 270 00:16:54,040 --> 00:16:57,600 但在挪威人败退数世纪后 But, many centuries after the Norwegians were sent packing, 271 00:16:57,600 --> 00:17:02,640 大批南欧移民开始涌入 large numbers of incomers began arriving from southern Europe. 272 00:17:02,640 --> 00:17:05,440 不同的是 他们留了下来 The difference - they stayed. 273 00:17:05,440 --> 00:17:07,440 若没有他们 海滨之旅 And without them, a trip to the seaside 274 00:17:07,440 --> 00:17:08,800 将失色不少 just wouldn't be the same. 275 00:17:11,160 --> 00:17:14,120 20世纪初期 Throughout the early part of the 20th century, 276 00:17:14,120 --> 00:17:16,800 意大利移民开始影响 Italian immigrants began to influence 277 00:17:16,800 --> 00:17:19,160 苏格兰人的度假体验 the Scottish holiday experience. 278 00:17:19,160 --> 00:17:23,560 他们开设炸鱼薯条店、冰淇淋店和咖啡馆 They opened fish-and-chip shops, ice cream parlours and cafes, 279 00:17:23,560 --> 00:17:27,520 满足日益增多的苏格兰海滨游客 catering for the growing number of Scots coming to the seaside. 280 00:17:32,560 --> 00:17:34,960 纳尔迪尼创始于1935年 Nardini's opened in 1935. 281 00:17:34,960 --> 00:17:39,240 拥有当时最时尚的装饰艺术风格装潢 It had the most stylish Art Deco furnishings of the day, 282 00:17:39,240 --> 00:17:41,760 立刻受到顾客追捧 and was an instant hit with customers. 283 00:17:43,760 --> 00:17:46,320 为深入了解意大利咖啡馆文化 To find out more about the huge influence 284 00:17:46,320 --> 00:17:49,160 对海滨度假的巨大影响 of Italian cafe culture on the seaside, 285 00:17:49,160 --> 00:17:51,440 我约见了编剧塞尔吉奥·卡西 I'm meeting up with screenwriter Sergio Casci, 286 00:17:51,440 --> 00:17:54,720 他的家族同许多苏格兰-意大利家庭一样 whose family, like so many Scots-Italians, 287 00:17:54,720 --> 00:17:57,480 经营过冰淇淋店 ran an ice cream parlour. 288 00:17:57,480 --> 00:18:00,480 塞尔吉奥 意大利文化对我们欣赏海滨度假的方式 Sergio, the Italian culture had a huge influence, did it not, 289 00:18:00,480 --> 00:18:03,960 影响深远 不是吗？ on the way we appreciate our own seaside resorts? 290 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,920 - 是的 - 围绕冰淇淋和意大利冰淇淋店 - Yeah. - And a whole culture has built up around ice cream, 291 00:18:06,920 --> 00:18:09,400 已形成完整文化 around the Italian ice cream parlour. 292 00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:12,640 这几乎成了成年礼般的传统 Well, it's become, it's become almost a rite of passage. 293 00:18:12,640 --> 00:18:15,840 来到海滨小镇就要吃冰淇淋 You come to the little seaside resort, you have an ice cream. 294 00:18:15,840 --> 00:18:19,320 这是苏格兰夏季和假日体验的精髓 It's one of the essentials of the Scottish summer, and holiday experience. 295 00:18:19,320 --> 00:18:20,840 你显然是意大利裔 Now, you're obviously Italian, 296 00:18:20,840 --> 00:18:23,800 名叫塞尔吉奥 与这段历史直接相关 the name Sergio, and you're directly connected to this story, 297 00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:26,280 因为你家曾开过冰淇淋店 because your family set up an ice cream parlour. 298 00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:28,160 确实如此 Well, that's right, yeah. 299 00:18:28,160 --> 00:18:31,800 我曾祖父1899年来此 先开了一家店 My great grandfather came over in 1899, and he opened one cafe, 300 00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:34,520 后来两家、三家 传给我祖父 再传给我父亲 then two, then three, then my grandfather took over, my father. 301 00:18:34,520 --> 00:18:36,080 这是他们经营的其中一家咖啡馆... That was one of the cafes they had... 302 00:18:36,080 --> 00:18:38,480 - 你曾祖父的店？ - 我曾祖父 - Your great grandfather's, is it? - My great grandfather. 303 00:18:38,480 --> 00:18:41,640 19世纪末意大利人大量涌入 Italians came over in great numbers at the end of the 19th century. 304 00:18:41,640 --> 00:18:43,680 这些贫困移民来此谋生 They were poor immigrants looking for work. 305 00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:47,360 他们发现苏格兰人当时并不了解冰淇淋 They arrived in Scotland and discovered the Scots didn't really know about ice cream. 306 00:18:47,360 --> 00:18:50,520 产业工人每周工作 You had industrial workers who were working, maybe, 307 00:18:50,520 --> 00:18:53,120 五六天 突然多出一天休息日 five or six days a week, and they had an extra day off. 308 00:18:53,120 --> 00:18:55,360 人们首次有了闲暇时光 For the first time, people had leisure time, 309 00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:57,520 还有余钱可供消遣 and they had a little bit of extra money to spend. 310 00:18:57,520 --> 00:19:01,360 典型格拉斯哥人周末会去海边 So, your typical Glaswegian would go to the coast at the weekend, 311 00:19:01,360 --> 00:19:06,200 在冰冷海水中趟水 然后寻找美食 he'd paddle in the freezing cold sea, then he'd look for something to eat, 312 00:19:06,200 --> 00:19:07,720 追求些许奢侈享受 he'd look for a bit of luxury. 313 00:19:07,720 --> 00:19:10,400 于是冰淇淋咖啡馆 And so, the ice cream cafe, the ice cream parlour, 314 00:19:10,400 --> 00:19:13,320 成为苏格兰假日体验的重要部分 became an essential part of the Scottish holiday experience. 315 00:19:13,320 --> 00:19:16,000 - 这是当时的员工 很精神 - 真体面 - Here they are, the staff. Very smart. - They were beautiful. 316 00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:18,760 长围裙的着装也很考究 Smartly attired, as well, with those long aprons. 317 00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:21,080 那时去咖啡馆不只为了 In those days, going to a cafe was more 318 00:19:21,080 --> 00:19:23,040 冰淇淋和咖啡 than just the ice cream, and the coffee. 319 00:19:23,040 --> 00:19:25,840 要给顾客营造奢华感 You wanted to give people a sense of luxury. 320 00:19:27,000 --> 00:19:30,880 但并非所有人都欢迎这种新潮流 But not everyone was in favour of this new craze. 321 00:19:30,880 --> 00:19:36,160 随着冰淇淋风靡 它惹恼了教会 As ice cream became more popular, it fell foul of the church, 322 00:19:36,160 --> 00:19:38,000 认为这种冷冻甜品 who considered this frozen dessert 323 00:19:38,000 --> 00:19:41,040 会腐蚀青年思想 a subversive influence on young people. 324 00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:43,440 苏格兰社会的权贵阶层 The great and the good of Scottish society 325 00:19:43,440 --> 00:19:45,880 对这些冰淇淋店深怀疑虑 were very suspicious of these ice cream parlours 326 00:19:45,880 --> 00:19:49,120 毕竟冰淇淋本质是种放纵 because, at the end of the day, ice cream is an indulgence. 327 00:19:49,120 --> 00:19:52,600 苏格兰劳工阶层趋之若鹜 但掌管 Ordinary working-class Scots loved it, but the people in charge 328 00:19:52,600 --> 00:19:55,600 国家道德风尚的人却充满戒备 of the moral fibre of the nation, they were very suspicious. 329 00:19:55,600 --> 00:19:59,120 首先这些店周日营业 已是大忌 For a start, these shops opened on a Sunday, which was a big no-no. 330 00:19:59,120 --> 00:20:01,520 当时的苏格兰社会 I think the Scottish society at that time, 331 00:20:01,520 --> 00:20:05,200 对这种轻浮事物存在不信任 there was a certain distrust and a mistrust of such fripperies. 332 00:20:05,200 --> 00:20:08,040 查阅当时的辩论记录 And, when you look at some of the debates that were had, 333 00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:10,400 政治辩论和报纸读者来信 political debates and in the newspaper letter pages 334 00:20:10,400 --> 00:20:12,560 能感受到强烈的质疑 at the time, you see this tremendous suspicion. 335 00:20:12,560 --> 00:20:15,600 担心年轻人被引诱进 The idea that our young people could be drawn into these 336 00:20:15,600 --> 00:20:18,320 堕落巢穴 沉溺奢侈享受 dens of iniquity, where they would indulge in such luxuries. 337 00:20:18,320 --> 00:20:19,480 后果会怎样？ And where would that lead? 338 00:20:19,480 --> 00:20:21,680 会染上烟瘾 会纵情接吻 It would lead to smoking. It would lead to kissing. 339 00:20:21,680 --> 00:20:25,000 有人甚至将品行端正的淑女 And one person actually made a connection between young women 340 00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:27,240 与涉世未深的纯真少女 of great moral fibre and good character, 341 00:20:27,240 --> 00:20:30,600 接触冰淇淋店后的堕落轨迹联系起来 innocent young girls, discovering the ice cream parlour, having their 342 00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:34,240 初尝冰淇淋导致吸烟 继而接吻 first taste of ice cream, leading to cigarettes, then kissing, 343 00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:37,160 最终沦为街头流莺 and ultimately they ended up as common streetwalkers, 344 00:20:37,160 --> 00:20:38,280 - 成为妓女 - 不会吧！ - as prostitutes. - No! 345 00:20:38,280 --> 00:20:41,600 全因一份撒糖霜的双球香草冰淇淋 All because of a, you know, double vanilla with sprinkles. 346 00:20:41,600 --> 00:20:44,280 - 真是滑坡谬论 - 典型的滑坡理论 - Right. That's a slippery slope. - It's a slippery slope. 347 00:20:44,280 --> 00:20:49,280 当然 意大利咖啡馆最终扎根于此 Of course, Italian cafes were here to stay 348 00:20:49,280 --> 00:20:52,000 成为海滨体验的重要部分 and have become a big part of the seaside experience. 349 00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:00,960 离开海岸线 我深入内陆 Leaving the coast, I'm heading inland to enjoy 350 00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:04,640 参加延续数百年的传统庆典 a traditional celebration that dates back centuries. 351 00:21:06,120 --> 00:21:09,760 这里是莫赫林 每年吸引数千人 This is Mauchline, where thousands come every year 352 00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:12,280 参加圣洁集市 to enjoy the Holy Fair. 353 00:21:13,320 --> 00:21:18,400 彭斯时代 这里交织着虔诚与喧嚣 In Burns' day, this was a mixture of the righteous and the raucous. 354 00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:22,040 他在同名诗作中生动描绘了这一场景 He captured the scene perfectly in his eponymous poem. 355 00:21:24,520 --> 00:21:27,840 "吾名欢乐 乃汝挚友 "My name is Fun - your cronie dear, 356 00:21:27,840 --> 00:21:30,480 "平生至交无出其右 "The nearest friend ye hae, 357 00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:33,600 "此为迷信彼伪善 "An' this is Superstition here, 358 00:21:33,600 --> 00:21:36,320 "相伴同行赴盛会 "An' that's Hypocrisy. 359 00:21:36,320 --> 00:21:37,960 "今往莫赫林圣洁集 "I'm gaun to Mauchline Holy Fair, 360 00:21:37,960 --> 00:21:40,080 "嬉戏片刻乐逍遥 "To spend an hour in daffin: 361 00:21:40,080 --> 00:21:43,160 "若随这对皱皮佬同往 "Gin ye'll go there, yon runkl'd pair, 362 00:21:43,160 --> 00:21:44,960 "定教诸君笑开怀 "We will get famous laughin' 363 00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:46,520 "于今朝" "At them this day." 364 00:21:46,520 --> 00:21:51,960 两百多年后 人们追寻的仍是欢乐 Over two centuries later, it's still fun that most people are after, 365 00:21:51,960 --> 00:21:55,200 而这里依然精彩纷呈 and it seems there's plenty on offer. 366 00:21:55,200 --> 00:21:58,960 圣洁集市源于17世纪 The origins of The Holy Fair date back to the 17th century, 367 00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:03,880 当时宣扬地狱火的 Presbyterian 牧师巡游乡间 when fire-and-brimstone Presbyterian ministers travelled around country areas 368 00:22:03,880 --> 00:22:05,760 布道并主持圣餐礼 to preach and give communion. 369 00:22:05,760 --> 00:22:10,480 安息日必须停止尔等亵渎行为！ Your heathenous ways on the Sabbath are to stop! 370 00:22:10,480 --> 00:22:14,640 但到彭斯时代 这个宗教节日已变成 But by Burns' day, this religious festival had become 371 00:22:14,640 --> 00:22:20,200 不圣洁的集市——喧闹混杂的嘉年华 more of an unholy fair - a jostling, promiscuous carnival. 372 00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:23,200 教会对此深恶痛绝 And the Kirk did not approve. 373 00:22:23,200 --> 00:22:28,320 - 须每日诵念教义问答！每日！ - 两个蠢货！ - You should be saying your catechism every day! Every day! - You're a pair of eejits! 374 00:22:28,320 --> 00:22:30,680 堕入地狱吧！ Rot down into hell! 375 00:22:32,720 --> 00:22:37,840 您如何看待今日所见所闻？ And what's your attitude to the goings on that you've seen so far today? 376 00:22:37,840 --> 00:22:42,240 魔鬼行径 先生 魔鬼行径！确实可怕至极 Devil's work sir. Devil's work! Yes indeed, they're terrible, terrible. 377 00:22:42,240 --> 00:22:44,080 个个都是罪人 Sinners, every one of them. 378 00:22:44,080 --> 00:22:49,240 赌博换酒喝 酒精是恶魔汁液 There's gambling, gambling for alcohol. Alcohol, the devil's juice. 379 00:22:49,240 --> 00:22:52,080 欢声笑语太过 人们纵情享乐 There's far too much hilarity. People enjoying themselves. 380 00:22:52,080 --> 00:22:55,720 这类集市在19世纪逐渐消失 Fairs like these died out in the 19th century, 381 00:22:55,720 --> 00:22:58,960 但许多现已恢复为年度活动 but many have again become annual events. 382 00:22:58,960 --> 00:23:02,920 如今莫赫林圣洁集市吸引数千镇民 And Mauchline Holy Fair now attracts thousands of townsfolk 383 00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:05,920 与游客共庆盛会 and tourists for the great day. 384 00:23:05,920 --> 00:23:09,440 若用一句话告诫众人 您会说什么？ If you had one word to say to them all, what would you say? 385 00:23:09,440 --> 00:23:13,080 即刻忏悔 趁未晚时忏悔罪孽 Repent now. Repent your sins now, before it's too late. 386 00:23:13,080 --> 00:23:16,600 恐怕为时已晚 非常感谢二位 Think it is too late. Thanks very much, gentlemen. 387 00:23:17,680 --> 00:23:21,200 彭斯年轻时曾在莫赫林居住 Burns stayed in Mauchline when he was a young man, 388 00:23:21,200 --> 00:23:26,760 此地生活激发他创造出最生动的文学形象 and it was his experience of life here that inspired some of his most vivid characters. 389 00:23:29,080 --> 00:23:31,920 距喧嚣集市仅数分钟路程 Just a few minutes away from all the noise of the fair, 390 00:23:31,920 --> 00:23:35,760 矗立着纪念这位民族诗人的宏伟纪念碑 there's a rather grand monument to our national bard, 391 00:23:35,760 --> 00:23:38,680 为纪念他逝世百年而建 built to celebrate the centenary of his death. 392 00:23:46,360 --> 00:23:48,120 视野绝佳！ What a great view! 393 00:23:48,120 --> 00:23:52,640 此处可眺望莫斯吉尔农场 From here you can see Mossgiel, the farm where Burns once lived, 394 00:23:52,640 --> 00:23:55,840 彭斯曾居住于此 周边景色激发其创作灵感 along with the places that inspired his writing. 395 00:23:56,880 --> 00:24:00,840 这座纪念碑建于我的《布莱克指南》出版之后 Now, this memorial was built after my edition of Black's was published, 396 00:24:00,840 --> 00:24:02,640 所以书中未有记载 so it doesn't get a mention at all. 397 00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:05,840 但后期指南多有提及 But it does feature a lot in later guides, 398 00:24:05,840 --> 00:24:10,120 包括这本彩印小册《彭斯之乡》 including this colourful little number called The Burns Country, 399 00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:13,280 《我们的足迹与见闻》 Where We Have Been And What We Have Seen. 400 00:24:13,280 --> 00:24:18,840 指南宣称："这才是彭斯真正的精神故土" 'And the guide proclaims, "This is the true homeland of Burns. 401 00:24:18,840 --> 00:24:22,800 "他在此从少年成长为青年 经历爱情得失 '"Here he grew from youth to man, fell in love and out of love, 402 00:24:22,800 --> 00:24:26,120 "成婚并发表处女诗作" '"married and gave his first poetry to the world."' 403 00:24:27,880 --> 00:24:33,280 奇特的是 书中配图竟是异域场景中的苏格兰人 And rather curiously, it's illustrated with images of Scotsmen in exotic locations. 404 00:24:33,280 --> 00:24:36,720 将他们殖民事业凝聚在一起的 And they're united in their colonial endeavours 405 00:24:36,720 --> 00:24:42,640 是彭斯最负盛名的国际歌曲《友谊地久天长》 by a line from Burns' most celebrated international song, Auld Lang Syne. 406 00:24:42,640 --> 00:24:46,880 无论身处何地 殖民何人 皆以友谊为纽带 Bound in friendship, wherever they were and whoever they'd colonised. 407 00:24:55,680 --> 00:25:01,320 我忽然意识到 彭斯的非凡之处不仅在于国际影响力 It occurs to me that what makes Burns special is not just his international appeal, 408 00:25:01,320 --> 00:25:08,200 更在于苏格兰对其记忆与作品独特的传承与礼赞方式 but the unique way in which his memory and work are still cherished and celebrated here in Scotland. 409 00:25:10,360 --> 00:25:13,560 连圣洁集市也因他复兴 Even The Holy Fair has been revived in his honour, 410 00:25:13,560 --> 00:25:18,240 延续着曾给予他灵感的传统与文化 helping to keep alive the traditions and the culture that inspired him. 411 00:25:21,560 --> 00:25:23,920 告别集市的欢闹 Leaving behind the fun of the fair, 412 00:25:23,920 --> 00:25:27,000 我即将完成艾尔郡环线之旅 I'm completing my circular tour of Ayrshire 413 00:25:27,000 --> 00:25:30,560 去见证另一项源远流长的传统 to witness another tradition with a long pedigree. 414 00:25:32,360 --> 00:25:36,480 [扩音器传出的赛况解说] RACE COMMENTARY FROM LOUDSPEAKER 415 00:25:45,040 --> 00:25:47,920 艾尔赛马场已有数百年历史 There's been a racecourse at Ayr for centuries, 416 00:25:47,920 --> 00:25:51,480 始终吸引着赌客 and it's always pulled in the punters. 417 00:25:51,480 --> 00:25:56,960 令我惊讶的是 向来道德端正的《布莱克指南》 Much to my surprise, Black's guide, normally the model of moral rectitude, 418 00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:02,800 竟特意告知想赌马的游客 takes the opportunity to notify tourists who want a flutter on the horses 419 00:26:02,800 --> 00:26:04,760 每周赛事安排 which days of the week are racing days. 420 00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:13,280 20世纪初 艾尔赛马会吸引数千一日游游客 By the early 1900s, horse racing at Ayr attracted thousands of day trippers. 421 00:26:13,280 --> 00:26:18,040 他们观赛赏景 沉浸氛围 They came, enjoyed the spectacle, soaked up the atmosphere, 422 00:26:18,040 --> 00:26:22,320 当然也免不了破费 and, of course, parted with some hard-earned cash. 423 00:26:25,320 --> 00:26:27,920 现有赛马场1907年建成 The present racecourse was developed here in 1907 424 00:26:27,920 --> 00:26:32,160 如今举办苏格兰赛马界最负盛名的赛事 and today hosts the most prestigious events in the Scottish racing calendar - 425 00:26:32,160 --> 00:26:37,160 艾尔金杯赛与苏格兰国家大赛 The Ayr Gold Cup and the Scottish Grand National. 426 00:26:37,160 --> 00:26:43,440 对许多人而言 赛日重头戏就是押注冷门马的刺激 And for many, a big part of the day is the thrill of putting a few quid on a long shot. 427 00:26:43,440 --> 00:26:49,560 我本不好赌博 此刻战战兢兢准备下注 I'm not a gambling man and so it's with some trepidation that I'm going to try and place a bet. 428 00:26:49,560 --> 00:26:54,240 但在血本无归前 我要请教行家里手 But before I waste my money, I'm going to speak to someone who knows the business inside out. 429 00:26:54,240 --> 00:26:59,560 希望场边博彩师朱莉·威廉姆斯能指点迷津 I'm hoping that track-side bookie Julie Williams can give me a winning tip. 430 00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:02,240 首先我想知道什么是马匹状态？ First thing I need to know is what is the form of a horse? 431 00:27:02,240 --> 00:27:04,840 什么意思？ What's that? What are you talking about? 432 00:27:04,840 --> 00:27:07,800 所谓状态要看马匹 What you're talking about there is you want to look at how 433 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:10,520 近期表现 需查阅往绩 a horse has been performing. So you'd look back at his record. 434 00:27:10,520 --> 00:27:14,640 最关键的是查看马房近14天战绩 One of the most important things we look at is how a stable's doing in the last 14 days. 435 00:27:14,640 --> 00:27:18,960 所以要看战绩 包括马匹和驯马师的记录？ So they've got a good record. It's all about the record of the horse, record of the trainer? 436 00:27:18,960 --> 00:27:22,880 没错 若这些都靠不住 就干脆看骑师彩衣颜色 Absolutely. But if all that fails, you just pick the colours of the jockey silks. 437 00:27:22,880 --> 00:27:27,640 - 看颜色！ - 是啊 - 总该有更科学的方法吧！ - The colours! - Yeah. - There must be more of a science to it than that, surely! 438 00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:33,760 研究完赛绩后 我决定采用不太科学的方式 So, having studied the form, I've decided to take the less scientific approach, 439 00:27:33,760 --> 00:27:37,440 押注穿红绿彩衣的骑师 and put my money on the jockey wearing red and green. 440 00:27:37,440 --> 00:27:40,400 [扩音器传出的赛况解说] RACE COMMENTARY FROM LOUDSPEAKER 441 00:27:44,520 --> 00:27:47,120 噢！噢！ Oh! Oh! 442 00:27:47,120 --> 00:27:51,000 这方法居然奏效了！ And the system seems to work! 443 00:27:51,000 --> 00:27:54,840 经照片判定 姜黄杰克获胜！ After a photo finish, Ginger Jack wins! 444 00:27:54,840 --> 00:27:58,000 太感谢了 太好了！ Thank you very much indeed. Yes! 445 00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:05,320 乘胜追击 我把赢的钱押在蓝黄彩衣骑师身上 Flushed with success I put my winnings on the jockey wearing blue and yellow. 446 00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:09,440 可惜这次方法失灵 Sadly, this time the system fails. 447 00:28:09,440 --> 00:28:12,840 只好下次再碰运气了 Better luck next time, I think. 448 00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:20,200 赌博的真相是 庄家才是唯一赢家 The thing about gambling is, there's only really one winner, and that's the bookie. 449 00:28:20,200 --> 00:28:25,160 我倒毫无怨言 毕竟重在参与 Not that I'm grumbling in any way, because it's all about playing the game. 450 00:28:25,160 --> 00:28:29,520 这正是人们的来意——享受精彩赛事 激动时刻 Which is why people come here - to enjoy the spectacle, the excitement 451 00:28:29,520 --> 00:28:31,920 与欢乐氛围 and the atmosphere of a great day out - 452 00:28:31,920 --> 00:28:34,920 这些都是罗伯特·彭斯会热爱的元素 all things that Robert Burns would have loved, 453 00:28:34,920 --> 00:28:41,280 因此我将这场"从彭斯到布特林"的苏格兰壮游终点定在赛马场 which is why I'm ending my grand tour of Scotland, from Burns to Butlins, at the races. 454 00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:48,800 下次壮游中 我将直面寒潮 On my next Grand Tour, I'm facing the big chill, 455 00:28:48,800 --> 00:28:51,240 见证苏格兰的冬季 as winter comes to Scotland 456 00:28:54,920 --> 00:28:58,720 字幕由红蜂传媒有限公司提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd