1 00:00:03,240 --> 00:00:07,320 两百年来，苏格兰以其壮丽风光 For 200 years, Scotland has attracted visitors with 2 00:00:07,320 --> 00:00:09,080 吸引着无数游客。 its magnificent scenery. 3 00:00:10,160 --> 00:00:14,240 但早期游客为抵达这些绝美之地， But to get to these inspiring places, early tourists often 4 00:00:14,240 --> 00:00:18,080 往往要忍受难以习惯的艰苦。 had to endure a degree of unaccustomed hardship. 5 00:00:18,080 --> 00:00:22,360 为体验"苍凉粗犷的喀里多尼亚"， To experience "Caledonia stern and wild", 6 00:00:22,360 --> 00:00:26,600 早期富庶游客面临一个难题： many early, well-heeled tourists were faced with a bit of a problem, 7 00:00:26,600 --> 00:00:29,520 离家越远，就越要牺牲 because the further they travelled from home, the more they had to 8 00:00:29,520 --> 00:00:34,920 某些理所当然的奢侈享受—— sacrifice, well, certain standards of luxury which, understandably, 9 00:00:34,920 --> 00:00:37,000 这让他们颇为抗拒。 they were rather reluctant to do. 10 00:00:39,320 --> 00:00:44,360 苏格兰的舒适度口碑不尽如人意， Scotland's reputation for comfort left a lot to be desired, 11 00:00:44,360 --> 00:00:47,960 早期旅行者的遭遇令人震惊。 and some early travellers were shocked by their experience. 12 00:00:47,960 --> 00:00:50,240 住宿条件参差不齐， They found the standard of accommodation variable, 13 00:00:50,240 --> 00:00:51,720 委婉地说。 to say the least. 14 00:00:51,720 --> 00:00:54,040 常有臭虫肆虐， Often, there were bedbugs. 15 00:00:54,040 --> 00:00:56,880 有时连床垫都没有！ Sometimes there was no mattress at all! 16 00:00:56,880 --> 00:01:01,080 还可能与陌生人 And there was always the possibility of being forced to share 17 00:01:01,080 --> 00:01:02,320 被迫同寝。 with a stranger. 18 00:01:04,200 --> 00:01:08,640 为帮助焦虑游客避开尴尬陷阱， To help anxious tourists avoid such embarrassing pitfalls, 19 00:01:08,640 --> 00:01:10,800 旅行指南应运而生， guidebooks began to appear, 20 00:01:10,800 --> 00:01:14,760 《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》便是先驱。 and Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland was one of the first. 21 00:01:18,280 --> 00:01:21,560 1846年出版的这本书成为旅行者圣经。 Published in 1846, it became the tourists' Bible. 22 00:01:21,560 --> 00:01:26,320 这本奇书曾指引我们全家 A copy of this fascinating book inspired my own family when 23 00:01:26,320 --> 00:01:27,680 的度假之旅。 we went on holiday. 24 00:01:28,800 --> 00:01:32,440 从书架深处抢救出这本指南后， Having salvaged Black's from the back of a bookcase, 25 00:01:32,440 --> 00:01:36,480 我决定循着书页展开苏格兰壮游， I'm letting its pages guide me on a Grand Tour of Scotland, 26 00:01:36,480 --> 00:01:39,960 追随早期游客足迹， following in the footsteps of the first tourists who came here, 27 00:01:39,960 --> 00:01:43,040 只为寻得一夜安眠。 hoping find a decent bed for the night. 28 00:01:56,520 --> 00:01:59,840 我的路线从福斯湾沿岸延伸至 My route takes me from the shores of the Firth of Forth to 29 00:01:59,840 --> 00:02:03,960 古王国法夫，经斯特灵进入 the ancient kingdom of Fife, then on to Stirling and into 30 00:02:03,960 --> 00:02:07,600 珀斯郡幽邃的奢华乡野。 the luxurious and exclusive depths of rural Perthshire. 31 00:02:11,280 --> 00:02:15,400 南昆斯费里被布莱克描述为 This is South Queensferry, described by Black's as 32 00:02:15,400 --> 00:02:19,000 "峭壁脚下古雅小镇， "A quaint little place at the foot of steep heights, 33 00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:21,240 "福斯湾在此收束"。 "which hem in the Firth of Forth." 34 00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:28,000 布莱克时代，北行游客穿过这些街道 In Black's day, tourists heading north passed along these streets 35 00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:30,000 搭乘"女王渡轮"。 to take the "Queen's ferry." 36 00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:34,840 这条福斯湾航线运行数世纪，直至1960年代 This crossing on the Forth ran for centuries, right up until the 1960s, 37 00:02:34,840 --> 00:02:39,640 因车流改道至头顶而停运。 when the traffic that kept it going was diverted, literally, overhead. 38 00:02:40,800 --> 00:02:44,880 难以想象南昆斯费里若没有 It's hard to imagine South Queensferry without a view of 39 00:02:44,880 --> 00:02:49,200 这些雄伟桥梁的景观——但布莱克指南出版时， these magnificent bridges, but when my copy of Black's was 40 00:02:49,200 --> 00:02:51,680 它们尚未存在。 published, they weren't here at all. 41 00:02:51,680 --> 00:02:55,840 如今这些桥梁终结了 Now together, they may have put paid to the old Queen's ferry that 42 00:02:55,840 --> 00:02:59,560 从此码头出发的古早渡轮，却成就了绝世美景。 used to leave from this quay, but they are a magnificent sight. 43 00:02:59,560 --> 00:03:04,200 西侧公路桥自1960年代 To the west, is the road bridge, which has been carrying 44 00:03:04,200 --> 00:03:07,720 承载车流，而我身后则是 traffic since the 1960s, while behind me here is 45 00:03:07,720 --> 00:03:10,320 堪称奇观的铁路桥。 the truly spectacular rail bridge. 46 00:03:10,320 --> 00:03:12,560 1890年通车时， When it was opened in 1890, 47 00:03:12,560 --> 00:03:16,400 它曾是全球最长的桥梁。 it was the longest bridge in the entire world. 48 00:03:19,280 --> 00:03:21,760 铁路桥竣工之时， When the rail bridge was completed, 49 00:03:21,760 --> 00:03:24,640 被誉为现代性的象征， it was heralded as a symbol of modernity, 50 00:03:24,640 --> 00:03:27,840 让游客得以空前舒适体面地 allowing tourists and passengers to travel north in 51 00:03:27,840 --> 00:03:31,400 北上旅行。 comfort and style like never before. 52 00:03:31,400 --> 00:03:34,360 但今日这座桥并非 But the bridge that stands here today wasn't the one 53 00:03:34,360 --> 00:03:35,960 最初设计。 originally planned. 54 00:03:35,960 --> 00:03:40,440 实际是在另一座桥坍塌后重新设计的。 It was actually redesigned after the failure of another bridge. 55 00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:44,240 为深入了解，我约见建筑史学家 To find out more, I'm meeting architectural historian 56 00:03:44,240 --> 00:03:47,480 奥利维亚·霍斯福尔·特纳。 Olivia Horsfall Turner. 57 00:03:47,480 --> 00:03:50,040 奥利维亚，这座建筑壮丽非凡， Olivia, this is a fantastic, magnificent structure but it 58 00:03:50,040 --> 00:03:51,960 但原本可能截然不同。 could have turned out very differently. 59 00:03:51,960 --> 00:03:54,320 本可能完全异貌。 It could have looked utterly different. 60 00:03:54,320 --> 00:03:56,840 福斯桥最初设计是 The original design for the bridge over the Forth was 61 00:03:56,840 --> 00:03:58,000 由工程师托马斯·鲍彻提出的 a suspension bridge 62 00:03:58,000 --> 00:04:00,680 悬索桥方案。 that was proposed by the engineer Thomas Bouch. 63 00:04:00,680 --> 00:04:04,040 他曾设计泰桥， He had been the engineer who had produced the design for 64 00:04:04,040 --> 00:04:06,200 当时被誉为 the Tay Bridge, which had been hailed 65 00:04:06,200 --> 00:04:09,200 工程奇迹。 as an amazing engineering achievement at the time. 66 00:04:09,200 --> 00:04:14,960 但该桥坍塌后，公众对其工程能力 But when it collapsed, public confidence was completely undermined 67 00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:16,880 信心尽失。 in his abilities as an engineer. 68 00:04:16,880 --> 00:04:19,400 鲍彻被解雇后，项目如何 So how was Bouch's project picked up, then, 69 00:04:19,400 --> 00:04:21,400 重获新生？ after he was effectively sacked? 70 00:04:21,400 --> 00:04:24,280 两位新工程师接手—— Well, two new engineers were brought onto the project. 71 00:04:24,280 --> 00:04:27,280 约翰·福勒与本杰明·贝克。 John Fowler and Benjamin Baker. 72 00:04:27,280 --> 00:04:30,160 他们提出全新设计方案， And they came up with a completely new design, a different 73 00:04:30,160 --> 00:04:33,880 采用悬臂原理而非悬索结构 way of crossing the Forth, using the cantilever principle 74 00:04:33,880 --> 00:04:35,360 横跨福斯湾。 rather than a suspension bridge. 75 00:04:35,360 --> 00:04:39,400 悬臂结构与泰桥设计 The cantilever structure itself was very different from 76 00:04:39,400 --> 00:04:41,000 截然不同。 the design for the Tay Bridge. 77 00:04:41,000 --> 00:04:45,000 悬臂使桥梁自承重， The cantilever means that the bridge is self-supporting, so 78 00:04:45,000 --> 00:04:49,240 构件分受压与受拉， that different members are in compression and tension, 79 00:04:49,240 --> 00:04:52,640 承重时反而更坚固。 and, in fact, when it has weight on it, it becomes more strong. 80 00:04:54,520 --> 00:04:59,240 这座奇迹建筑从来不止是桥梁。 This amazing structure has always been more than just a bridge. 81 00:04:59,240 --> 00:05:03,520 早在通车前，各地游客就蜂拥而至， Even before it opened, tourists from far and wide came to gaze in wonder 82 00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:08,120 惊叹福斯湾上的奇观。 at the sheer spectacle emerging on the Forth. 83 00:05:08,120 --> 00:05:10,800 建造期间就已有 Very quickly, while it was being constructed, 84 00:05:10,800 --> 00:05:12,080 游客专程参观， people started to visit 85 00:05:12,080 --> 00:05:14,680 且受到官方鼓励。 and were actively encouraged to visit, as well. 86 00:05:14,680 --> 00:05:17,720 波斯沙皇与巴西皇帝 The Shah of Persia and the Emperor of Brazil 87 00:05:17,720 --> 00:05:19,960 都曾到访。 were both visitors at the time. 88 00:05:22,840 --> 00:05:26,080 通车120年后， 120 years after the opening ceremony, 89 00:05:26,080 --> 00:05:30,760 这座桥仍是工程奇迹。 the bridge is still regarded as an engineering marvel. 90 00:05:30,760 --> 00:05:34,200 这是英国首座钢构桥梁， It's the first ever steel bridge to be built in Britain. 91 00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:39,080 双轨铁路横跨2.5公里福斯湾。 It carries a double-tracked railway two and a half kilometres across the Firth of Forth. 92 00:05:40,400 --> 00:05:44,280 铁路甲板距海平面46米， The rail deck is 46 metres above sea level, 93 00:05:44,280 --> 00:05:46,160 支撑塔楼则高达 while the supporting towers 94 00:05:46,160 --> 00:05:49,440 100米俯瞰过往船只。 soar 100 metres above the ships passing beneath. 95 00:05:51,200 --> 00:05:53,400 独特的造型使 Instantly recognisable, 96 00:05:53,400 --> 00:05:57,560 福斯桥成为苏格兰象征。 the Forth Bridge has become a symbol of Scottishness. 97 00:06:00,280 --> 00:06:03,600 穿越福斯湾，我的旅程来到 Crossing the Firth of Forth, my journey takes me 98 00:06:03,600 --> 00:06:07,680 古王国法夫的朝圣地， to the Ancient Kingdom of Fife and a place of pilgrimage, 99 00:06:07,680 --> 00:06:10,960 这里曾有人度过异常寒冷的夜晚。 where some found a peculiarly cold bed for the night. 100 00:06:15,080 --> 00:06:17,960 这是邓弗姆林修道院。 This is Dunfermline Abbey. 101 00:06:17,960 --> 00:06:22,480 布莱克指南浓墨重彩描述了其皇室渊源， Black's makes much of Dunfermline's royal connections, 102 00:06:22,480 --> 00:06:26,480 并引用古老民谣为证： and to prove the point, it quotes from an ancient ballad. 103 00:06:26,480 --> 00:06:30,760 "国王坐镇邓弗姆林城 "The king, he sits in Dunfermline toon 104 00:06:30,760 --> 00:06:32,720 "痛饮血红葡萄酒" "Drinking the blood red wine." 105 00:06:32,720 --> 00:06:35,640 美酒早已入喉， The wine was drunk years ago, 106 00:06:35,640 --> 00:06:39,720 而国王长眠于此—— but the king remains as, well, remains. 107 00:06:39,720 --> 00:06:42,200 确切说是遗骸。 Because he's buried here. 108 00:06:44,240 --> 00:06:48,840 作为皇室陵寝，邓弗姆林堪称 As the last resting place of royalty, Dunfermline counts 109 00:06:48,840 --> 00:06:52,040 苏格兰的威斯敏斯特教堂。 as Scotland's Westminster Abbey. 110 00:06:52,040 --> 00:06:54,720 这里安息着至少八位伟大国王、 There are at least eight great kings buried here, 111 00:06:54,720 --> 00:06:56,360 包括罗伯特·布鲁斯， including Robert the Bruce, 112 00:06:56,360 --> 00:07:01,200 五位王后、六位王子与两位公主。 five queens, six princes, and two princesses. 113 00:07:01,200 --> 00:07:05,000 但对苏格兰旅游业至关重要的， But crucially to the story of Scottish tourism, 114 00:07:05,000 --> 00:07:08,680 是这里安葬着一位圣徒王室成员。 Dunfermline is the last resting place of a saintly Royal. 115 00:07:08,680 --> 00:07:13,600 历史学家理查德·奥拉姆解释道， Historian Richard Oram explains how the first tourists here 116 00:07:13,600 --> 00:07:16,440 首批游客实为12世纪朝圣者。 were in fact 12th century pilgrims. 117 00:07:16,440 --> 00:07:18,720 所有皇室成员中最重要的是 The most important, in many ways, of all these royals 118 00:07:18,720 --> 00:07:20,440 玛格丽特王后， that's buried here is Queen Margaret, 119 00:07:20,440 --> 00:07:22,560 马尔科姆三世之妻， the wife of King Malcolm III, 120 00:07:22,560 --> 00:07:27,440 她被封圣并吸引朝圣者。 and she is made a saint and she attracts pilgrims. 121 00:07:27,440 --> 00:07:30,840 如何成为圣徒的？ How did she get to be a saint? 122 00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:35,560 因其生平典范与善行， It's the example of her life and her works in life on the one hand, 123 00:07:35,560 --> 00:07:41,320 以及逝后显灵治愈疾病。 and then also the miraculous cures that she works after death. 124 00:07:42,840 --> 00:07:47,440 中世纪欧洲，朝圣意义非凡， Going on a pilgrimage had great significance in medieval Europe, 125 00:07:47,440 --> 00:07:51,600 邓弗姆林是国际重要目的地。 and Dunfermline was an internationally important destination. 126 00:07:51,600 --> 00:07:54,600 随着虔诚人潮而来的， And with the jostling, holy crowds 127 00:07:54,600 --> 00:07:57,840 是牟利的世俗机会。 came the unholy chance to make money. 128 00:07:57,840 --> 00:08:00,720 记载显示重大宗教节日 The descriptions we've got here are on the big feast days, 129 00:08:00,720 --> 00:08:03,520 圣龛开放时， and the major days when the shrines were to be opened up. 130 00:08:03,520 --> 00:08:06,480 商贩云集叫卖。 You've got merchants, you've got hawkers, you've got pedlars. 131 00:08:06,480 --> 00:08:09,720 贩卖着如今所谓的旅游纪念品。 They're selling what we might class as, you know, tourist tat. 132 00:08:09,720 --> 00:08:13,800 - 这是早期旅游业形态 - 正是如此 - Right. This is an early form of tourism, of course. - Absolutely. 133 00:08:13,800 --> 00:08:19,000 这真正推动了经济新领域的发展。 And it really powers forward a whole new segment in the economy. 134 00:08:21,880 --> 00:08:24,640 教会是这经济中的最大玩家。 The biggest player in this economy was the church. 135 00:08:24,640 --> 00:08:29,520 在邓弗姆林，朝圣者付费获得 At Dunfermline, pilgrims paid for the privilege of sleeping 136 00:08:29,520 --> 00:08:32,560 睡在圣玛格丽特圣龛旁的殊荣 beside St Margaret's shrine, all in the hope of a cure. 137 00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:38,000 友人会搀扶他们进来，在此铺床过夜 They'll be brought in here by their friends and a bed will be made up for them. 138 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:43,600 夜间玛格丽特会在梦中显现 They'll sleep here overnight, and in their dream, Margaret will appear. 139 00:08:43,600 --> 00:08:47,800 他们将获得非常明确的指示 And what they're getting is a very, very clear set of instructions 140 00:08:47,800 --> 00:08:51,200 关于所犯过错及补救方法 as to what it is they've done wrong and how they can remedy the situation. 141 00:08:51,200 --> 00:08:54,200 朝圣者在此痊愈离去 So you came here as a pilgrim, you were cured. 142 00:08:54,200 --> 00:08:58,400 皆大欢喜——教会因收费而满意 So you left happy, and the church is happy because you paid for the privilege. 143 00:08:58,400 --> 00:09:04,000 13世纪中叶他们正在编纂 Yes. And what they're doing in the middle decades of the 13th century 144 00:09:04,000 --> 00:09:09,200 这些奇迹档案上报罗马教廷 is they're compiling a portfolio of these miracles to report to Rome 145 00:09:09,200 --> 00:09:13,560 以使玛格丽特正式封圣 so that Margaret can be officially canonised and made Saint Margaret. 146 00:09:16,560 --> 00:09:20,720 现代朝圣者若寻求治愈必将失望 Any latter-day pilgrim looking for a cure will be disappointed. 147 00:09:20,720 --> 00:09:25,000 圣玛格丽特墓基虽历经宗教改革幸存 Although the base of St Margaret's tomb survived the Reformation, 148 00:09:25,000 --> 00:09:30,040 其遗骸早已湮没在历史长河中 her mortal remains were lost to time and memory centuries ago. 149 00:09:32,320 --> 00:09:36,240 离开王室圣城邓弗姆林向北 Travelling north from royal and saintly Dunfermline, 150 00:09:36,240 --> 00:09:40,320 我的苏格兰壮游来到奥契尔山区 my Grand Tour of Scotland leads me to the Ochil Hills, 151 00:09:40,320 --> 00:09:44,160 德文河在此劈开坚硬岩层形成奇观 where the River Devon cuts a spectacular route through solid rock. 152 00:09:47,960 --> 00:09:54,720 "轰隆桥"早在旅游业初期就因壮丽景色闻名 This is Rumbling Brig famed from the early days of tourism for its sublime grandeur. 153 00:09:56,720 --> 00:10:00,360 现代游客有步道与扶手 Tourists today have the benefit of paths and handrails 154 00:10:00,360 --> 00:10:03,840 助其探索这壮丽峡谷 to help them explore the dramatic gorge here, 155 00:10:03,840 --> 00:10:07,960 但两百年前这是片蛮荒险境 but 200 years ago, this was a wild and dangerous place. 156 00:10:09,440 --> 00:10:13,280 此处风景曾被我最钟爱的 The scenery around here was enthusiastically described 157 00:10:13,280 --> 00:10:17,760 女性旅行家莎拉·穆雷热情描述 by Sarah Murray, who's my all-time favourite lady tourist. 158 00:10:17,760 --> 00:10:23,120 1796年她驾马车在苏格兰 In 1796, she spent three months rattling around Scotland 159 00:10:23,120 --> 00:10:27,640 游历三月，在轰隆桥的见闻 in her horse and carriage, and what she found here, at Rumbling Brig, 160 00:10:27,640 --> 00:10:30,640 与时代精神共鸣 chimed with the values of the age. 161 00:10:30,640 --> 00:10:34,200 野性之美直击心灵 A wild beauty that spoke straight to the heart. 162 00:10:35,760 --> 00:10:43,600 "我被引至鲜有女性涉足之地：轰隆桥 "I was conducted to a place where few, if any, women had ever ventured: the Rumbling Brig. 163 00:10:43,600 --> 00:10:47,600 "整个场景极具浪漫美感 "The whole scenery is to a very great degree romantic and beautiful, 164 00:10:47,600 --> 00:10:51,520 "令我心旷神怡" "and fills my mind with harmony and delight." 165 00:10:53,560 --> 00:10:58,160 为最佳观景，这位女中豪杰攀下120英尺 To get the best view, this redoubtable lady climbed 120 feet 166 00:10:58,160 --> 00:11:02,640 至峡谷底部写生 down to the bottom of the gorge, where she sketched the scene. 167 00:11:02,640 --> 00:11:08,200 莎拉当时身着裙装衬裙 Sarah, of course, wore a skirt and petticoats for the occasion, 168 00:11:08,200 --> 00:11:11,480 而我的装备更为实用 but today, my attire is a little more practical. 169 00:11:11,480 --> 00:11:14,680 我将追随莎拉足迹 Now I'm about to attempt to follow Sarah Murray's footsteps 170 00:11:14,680 --> 00:11:17,640 绳降峡谷 and abseil into the gorge, 171 00:11:17,640 --> 00:11:20,720 虽非她当年方式却是唯一途径 not that she ever abseiled, but it's the only way I'm going to get there. 172 00:11:20,720 --> 00:11:24,640 实话说我有些忐忑 To be honest, I'm feeling a bit apprehensive, a bit nervous, 173 00:11:24,640 --> 00:11:28,320 但史提夫让我安心，我们怎么做？ but I'm in good hands, I hope, Steve. What we going to do? 174 00:11:28,320 --> 00:11:32,400 我们将进行系列项目 OK, what we're going to do here is actually a series of activities. 175 00:11:32,400 --> 00:11:36,480 - 不止绳降 - 算是小型溪降 - It's not just an abseil. - It's what, it's what we call a small canyoning session. - Right. 176 00:11:36,480 --> 00:11:39,600 虽是大绳降但算小型溪降 Albeit it's quite a big abseil, it's just a small canyoning session. 177 00:11:39,600 --> 00:11:41,680 溪降包含系列项目 Canyoning is a series of activities. 178 00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:45,840 之前有人绳降过这峡谷吗？ Now, er, have many people done this abseil before into the gorge? 179 00:11:45,840 --> 00:11:49,600 据我所知没有，需强调这是专业活动 Not this particular one here, no, and I think something that I did want to stress is that 180 00:11:49,600 --> 00:11:52,400 专业人士才适合带领体验 there are people out there that do things like this for a living, 181 00:11:52,400 --> 00:11:55,280 他们乐意带人探索 they'll quite happily take people down into situations like this, 182 00:11:55,280 --> 00:11:58,400 - 但不建议独自尝试 - 明白 - but it's not something that people want to be doing on their own. - Right. 183 00:11:58,400 --> 00:12:02,200 据我所知无人曾绳降此峡谷 To my knowledge, I don't believe anybody's ever abseiled down into this canyon. 184 00:12:02,200 --> 00:12:04,400 太棒了，这是开创之举 That's brilliant. This is pioneering stuff then. 185 00:12:04,400 --> 00:12:07,960 - 确是开创 - 我是开拓者 - This is, this is pioneering stuff. - And I am a pioneer. - Yes, so you are, yeah. 186 00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:10,920 - 那就开拓吧 - 一起开拓 - Brilliant. Let's go pioneering, then. - Let's go pioneering. 187 00:12:10,920 --> 00:12:17,000 绳降对穆雷夫人虽不可行 Obviously, abseiling wasn't an option for the intrepid Mrs Murray, 188 00:12:17,000 --> 00:12:21,000 但我想她会比我还热衷于此 but I think she'd have loved this, and perhaps even more than me. 189 00:12:22,400 --> 00:12:26,000 莎拉·穆雷钟情险峻之地 Sarah Murray was drawn to dramatic locations, 190 00:12:26,000 --> 00:12:29,320 不辞艰辛冒着巨大风险 and went to great lengths, and considerable risk, 191 00:12:29,320 --> 00:12:33,640 体验自然的震撼伟力 to experience the thrill and raw power of nature. 192 00:12:39,720 --> 00:12:43,000 日记中她描述如何坐在激流巨石上 In her journal, she describes how she tried to draw the view, 193 00:12:43,000 --> 00:12:47,960 试图写生 sitting on a huge rock in the middle of the torrent. 194 00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:49,440 "此情此景 "In such a situation, 195 00:12:49,440 --> 00:12:53,640 "难免头晕目眩 "it is almost impossible to preserve one's head from swimming. 196 00:12:53,640 --> 00:12:58,160 "写生时我数次闭眼紧抓岩石 "In my attempt to sketch the scenery, I was several times obliged to shut my eyes 197 00:12:58,160 --> 00:13:04,280 "以免坠入漩涡激流" "and take fast hold of the rock, least I should drop from it into the whirling, foaming stream." 198 00:13:07,480 --> 00:13:11,200 如您所见这景象摄人心魄 As you can see, this is a stupendous location. 199 00:13:11,200 --> 00:13:15,760 莎拉·穆雷会速记水彩写生 And Sarah Murray would have whipped out her sketchbook and her watercolours 200 00:13:15,760 --> 00:13:18,040 忙于记录风景 and have been busy drawing the scene. 201 00:13:18,040 --> 00:13:21,760 我非画家，只能拍照记录 Now, I'm no artist, so my camera will just have to do. 202 00:13:23,880 --> 00:13:28,200 任务完成却面临新难题 Mission accomplished, but now I'm faced with a bit of a problem. 203 00:13:28,200 --> 00:13:33,040 两侧120英尺峭壁无法攀爬 I can't climb back up the 120-foot cliffs on either side of the gorge. 204 00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:35,760 过于陡峭湿滑 They are too steep and too slippery. 205 00:13:35,760 --> 00:13:39,280 唯一出路是纵身跃入 There's only one way out of here, and that's to throw myself 206 00:13:39,280 --> 00:13:41,320 激流勇进！ into the river and swim for it! 207 00:13:46,760 --> 00:13:49,680 '在这极限运动狂热中 'In the middle of all this extreme sports madness, 208 00:13:49,680 --> 00:13:54,680 '不禁要问——优雅的莎拉·穆雷究竟如何 'it's impossible not to ask the question - how on earth did the genteel Sarah Murray 209 00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:59,480 '抵达这神奇峡谷底部写生？' 'get to the bottom of this amazing gorge and start sketching?' 210 00:13:59,480 --> 00:14:01,800 看这里！ Ah! Look at that! 211 00:14:01,800 --> 00:14:04,760 '她肯定找到了更便捷的路径' 'She must have found an easier way down here, surely.' 212 00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:12,520 这便是莎拉·穆雷1796年笔下 This is the "Woeful town of Dollar", 213 00:14:12,520 --> 00:14:16,880 "凄凉的杜拉尔镇" as Sarah Murray described the place back in 1796. 214 00:14:16,880 --> 00:14:19,720 未被吓退的我希望在此休整 Not to be put off, this is where I hope to recover 215 00:14:19,720 --> 00:14:22,520 寻得夜宿之处 from my adventures and get a bed for the night. 216 00:14:22,520 --> 00:14:26,360 此时布莱克指南派上大用场 Black's is really handy in situations like this. 217 00:14:26,360 --> 00:14:33,120 满载住宿推荐与价目信息 It's absolutely stuffed full of useful tips about where to stay and how much it costs. 218 00:14:33,120 --> 00:14:35,400 读来趣味盎然 It makes fascinating reading. 219 00:14:37,360 --> 00:14:41,440 当时两先令便可过夜 Back then, just two shillings would get you a bed for the night. 220 00:14:41,440 --> 00:14:44,320 但令人不安的是雪莉酒价格 But, disturbingly, a bottle of sherry 221 00:14:44,320 --> 00:14:47,040 竟超过住宿费 cost more than your accommodation. 222 00:14:47,040 --> 00:14:50,960 更糟的是有时根本无酒供应 Even worse, there was sometimes no wine available at all. 223 00:14:50,960 --> 00:14:52,720 天呐！ Oh, dear(!) 224 00:14:53,840 --> 00:14:58,160 欣慰的是如今已非布莱克时代 It's a relief to discover that things have moved on since Black's day. 225 00:14:58,160 --> 00:15:02,440 镇上酒店有储备充足的酒吧 There's a fully-stocked bar at the hotel in town, 226 00:15:02,440 --> 00:15:05,080 我与历史学家凯文·詹姆斯 which is where I meet up with historian Kevin James 227 00:15:05,080 --> 00:15:07,680 把酒畅谈 over a glass or two of Rioja. 228 00:15:07,680 --> 00:15:10,680 凯文，当时住宿条件如何？ Kevin, what was the standard of accommodation like back then? 229 00:15:10,680 --> 00:15:14,240 能期待怎样的过夜体验？ What kind of quality of bed for the night could they expect? 230 00:15:14,240 --> 00:15:17,680 条件可能相当糟糕 They might not be able to expect a very high quality one at all. 231 00:15:17,680 --> 00:15:21,040 大量旅行见闻录记载 I mean, there are lots and lots of references in travelogues, 232 00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:24,080 在大众旅游业兴起前 before the era of mass tourism, if we want to call it that, 233 00:15:24,080 --> 00:15:26,120 遭遇跳蚤 of people encountering fleas 234 00:15:26,120 --> 00:15:29,360 睡木板甚至泥地的经历 and sleeping on boards and even on dirt floors. 235 00:15:29,360 --> 00:15:32,000 维多利亚时代更多游客来苏格兰 By Victorian times, more tourists were coming to Scotland 236 00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:33,360 寻求住宿 looking for accommodation, 237 00:15:33,360 --> 00:15:36,200 人们看到商机 and people saw a business opportunity there. 238 00:15:36,200 --> 00:15:38,520 有位人物因此变得 And there was one character in particular that became 239 00:15:38,520 --> 00:15:39,920 声名狼藉 quite notorious, shall we say. 240 00:15:39,920 --> 00:15:43,280 确实，各类指南和游记中 Oh, absolutely. I mean, this is a figure who appears in 241 00:15:43,280 --> 00:15:44,920 都出现的 all kinds of both guidebooks 242 00:15:44,920 --> 00:15:47,920 所谓"苏格兰旅店老板" and travelogues, the so-called Scotch innkeeper. 243 00:15:47,920 --> 00:15:51,400 其最大特点就是吝啬 And what he's most famous for is just his miserliness. 244 00:15:51,400 --> 00:15:54,200 餐饮收费也极其昂贵 And exorbitant rates for food and drink, too. 245 00:15:54,200 --> 00:15:56,840 许多旅客抱怨虽然 And so a lot of travellers leave complaining that although 246 00:15:56,840 --> 00:15:58,480 住宿本身 the accommodation, for instance, 247 00:15:58,480 --> 00:16:02,800 不算太贵 and the board might not have been too expensive, 248 00:16:02,800 --> 00:16:06,880 离店时却收到包含各种 once they left the hotel, or were leaving the hotel, 249 00:16:06,880 --> 00:16:10,760 附加费用的账单 they were presented with a bill that contained all of these additional charges 250 00:16:10,760 --> 00:16:12,840 总额常常 that added up to, occasionally, 251 00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:15,520 远超住宿费 much more than the cost of a night's stay, too. 252 00:16:15,520 --> 00:16:17,800 这对苏格兰旅游并非好广告吧？ But not a great advertisement for Scotland, surely? 253 00:16:17,800 --> 00:16:19,360 未免目光短浅 Rather, you know, short-sighted. 254 00:16:19,360 --> 00:16:21,960 回头客肯定寥寥 You're not going to get very many returning guests. 255 00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:24,120 但存在一个悖论 No, it's... There's a paradox, 256 00:16:24,120 --> 00:16:26,560 苏格兰旅店老板的形象 though, to the figure of the Scotch innkeeper, 257 00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:28,320 某种程度上 and that is that to some extent, 258 00:16:28,320 --> 00:16:30,560 人们反而会刻意寻找这类人物 I think people went out in search of him. 259 00:16:30,560 --> 00:16:33,440 我认为旅行者会刻意寻找这类店主 I think the traveller went out in search of him, 260 00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:36,440 部分原因是不想住进千篇一律的旅馆 in part because they didn't want to stay in some anodyne hotel, 261 00:16:36,440 --> 00:16:40,760 那些德国经理瑞士侍者的国际化酒店 some cosmopolitan hotel with a German manager and a Swiss waiter. 262 00:16:40,760 --> 00:16:43,360 他们的部分动机是体验心目中 Part of their motivation was to experience the culture 263 00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:45,880 真正的苏格兰文化——尤其是 of Scotland as they saw it. The culture, in particular, 264 00:16:45,880 --> 00:16:48,680 他们常描述的凯尔特高地文化 of the Highlanders, of the Celt, as they often described it. 265 00:16:48,680 --> 00:16:51,440 这意味着原始住宿条件 And this meant this kind of primitive accommodation, 266 00:16:51,440 --> 00:16:53,400 吝啬店主形象 this sort of miserly figure, 267 00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:57,040 反而验证了旅行体验的真实性 somehow authenticated the travel experience for them. 268 00:16:58,440 --> 00:17:02,040 留下凯文独享最后的里奥哈 Leaving Kevin to polish off the last of the Rioja, 269 00:17:02,040 --> 00:17:04,000 我再次踏上旅程 I'm back on the road again. 270 00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:06,000 但前往下一站需要 'But to get to my next destination, 271 00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:09,280 动用点小智慧和我的大拇指 'I'm going to have to use a little ingenuity and my thumb.' 272 00:17:11,240 --> 00:17:15,720 这招我多年未用了 Now, this is something I've not done for years. 273 00:17:15,720 --> 00:17:20,800 但少年时搭便车是15岁穷孩子 But as a kid, hitchhiking was the only way a 15-year-old 274 00:17:20,800 --> 00:17:23,760 探索苏格兰的唯一方式 with no money could explore Scotland. 275 00:17:23,760 --> 00:17:26,200 我曾靠拇指走遍各地 And I went everywhere by thumb power. 276 00:17:31,320 --> 00:17:33,360 没停，下次好运 Nope. Better luck next time. 277 00:17:35,160 --> 00:17:39,200 当年搭便车是我冒险的通行证 Back in the day, hitchhiking was my passport to adventure, 278 00:17:39,200 --> 00:17:41,520 我与老友格斯 and I travelled all over Scotland 279 00:17:41,520 --> 00:17:44,320 这样游遍苏格兰和欧陆 and the Continent with my old mate, Gus. 280 00:17:44,320 --> 00:17:47,240 以这般模样能到达任何地方 Though how we managed to get anywhere looking like this 281 00:17:47,240 --> 00:17:49,400 堪称奇迹 is something of a marvel. 282 00:17:49,400 --> 00:17:52,720 但时代变迁搭便车传统 'But things have changed and the whole tradition of hitchhiking 283 00:17:52,720 --> 00:17:55,200 已被妖魔化 'has been given a bad press. 284 00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:59,080 看看是否还有人敢载我 'So let's see if anyone is brave enough to pick me up!' 285 00:17:59,080 --> 00:18:01,120 标致车！太棒了！ Peugeot. Excellent! 286 00:18:01,120 --> 00:18:04,400 搭到车了，太好了 Getting a lift, yes, fantastic. 287 00:18:04,400 --> 00:18:06,800 成功！仅用十分钟 'Result! And after only ten minutes, 288 00:18:06,800 --> 00:18:09,880 刷新我个人纪录 'which has to be something of a personal record, 289 00:18:09,880 --> 00:18:13,760 绝对比等公交快 'and definitely less time than waiting for a bus.' 290 00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,880 太感谢了 That's fantastic. Thanks very much. 291 00:18:17,040 --> 00:18:19,360 系好安全带 I'll just strap myself in. 292 00:18:19,360 --> 00:18:23,520 -朱迪丝 -常载搭便车的人吗？ -不 - Judith. - Tell me, do you often pick up hitchhikers? - No, I don't. 293 00:18:23,520 --> 00:18:26,520 -只载体面人 -只载体面的 - Right. Only the respectable-looking ones. - Only respectable-looking. 294 00:18:26,520 --> 00:18:30,240 其实我多年前常这么做 No, actually it's something that I used to do many years ago. 295 00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:33,360 这么快搭到车让我很振奋 'I'm encouraged to be given a lift so quickly. 296 00:18:33,360 --> 00:18:37,480 仿佛回到司机与搭车者共享 'It's like going back to the days when drivers and hitchhikers 297 00:18:37,480 --> 00:18:40,440 公路情谊的欢乐时光 'shared a cheerful sense of highway camaraderie.' 298 00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:43,680 为何如今路上 Why do you think it is that today 299 00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:46,560 搭便车的人变少了？ you see fewer hitchhikers on the roads? 300 00:18:46,560 --> 00:18:50,560 他们快绝迹了 Because they're kind of like a dying breed. 301 00:18:50,560 --> 00:18:55,000 我想安全因素是主因 Well...I suppose safety is a big aspect. 302 00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:56,600 呃... Erm... 303 00:18:56,600 --> 00:18:59,640 但要说最不可能载人的司机 But I have to say, of all the drivers who are least likely 304 00:18:59,640 --> 00:19:01,000 我觉得 to pick up a hitchhiker, 305 00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:03,680 单身女性应该排最后 I would have thought a single woman would be the least likely. 306 00:19:03,680 --> 00:19:06,480 -（笑） -我挺勇敢 -你是第一个 - SHE LAUGHS - Oh, I'm quite brave. - You were the first one. 307 00:19:06,480 --> 00:19:09,560 是吗？俗话说人不可貌相 Am I? You can't always judge a book by the cover, as they say. 308 00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:15,720 勇敢的女司机把我放在福斯河 My brave lady driver drops me off where the River Forth 309 00:19:15,720 --> 00:19:19,800 蜿蜒流过斯特林城外的平原地带 meanders through flat countryside near the city of Stirling. 310 00:19:22,240 --> 00:19:25,920 看到河上泛舟令我惊讶 I'm surprised by the sight of folks boating on the river, 311 00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:29,760 这场景我总联想到英格兰南部 something I've always associated with the gentler climes 312 00:19:29,760 --> 00:19:31,640 温和的气候 of the English Home Counties. 313 00:19:34,120 --> 00:19:37,400 划手大卫·普兰克为我讲解 Oarsman David Plank keeps me straight on the history 314 00:19:37,400 --> 00:19:39,280 苏格兰划船史 of Scottish rowing 315 00:19:39,280 --> 00:19:43,240 我们逆流划向斯特林城 as we pull upstream towards the city of Stirling. 316 00:19:43,240 --> 00:19:47,160 我总把这种划船运动与 I've always associated this type of rowing with, I suppose, 317 00:19:47,160 --> 00:19:49,240 特权阶级联系起来 your privileged classes. 318 00:19:49,240 --> 00:19:51,320 这样公平吗？ Now, is that fair? 319 00:19:51,320 --> 00:19:53,400 在苏格兰绝非如此 Certainly not in Scotland, no. 320 00:19:53,400 --> 00:19:57,840 工人阶级如铁路搬运工 It was working class people, railway porters was one group of people 321 00:19:57,840 --> 00:20:00,720 在格拉斯哥就有自己的设施 that had their own facility in Glasgow. 322 00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:04,720 他们是格拉斯哥的划船俱乐部 They were a rowing club from Glasgow. So, definitely not. 323 00:20:04,720 --> 00:20:07,640 这是探索城市的绝佳方式 It's a great way of exploring the city. 324 00:20:07,640 --> 00:20:12,320 从这里看到的景色非常特别 I mean, the views you get from here are really quite exceptional. 325 00:20:12,320 --> 00:20:15,040 斯特林本就是座美丽城市 Well, Stirling's a lovely city anyway. 326 00:20:16,400 --> 00:20:19,520 从我们视角观赏更是绝妙 And to see it from our aspect is just superb. 327 00:20:21,440 --> 00:20:25,480 我们划行的路线其实是老蒸汽船航道 'As we row on the river, we're actually following an old steamer route, 328 00:20:25,480 --> 00:20:29,200 布莱克时代游客从南昆斯费里 'which in Black's day carried tourists from South Queensferry, 329 00:20:29,200 --> 00:20:33,880 直抵斯特林——全程36英里 'all the way to Stirling - a distance of 36 miles. 330 00:20:33,880 --> 00:20:37,320 一战后福斯河上游 'But after the First World War, the upper reaches of the Forth 331 00:20:37,320 --> 00:20:40,000 再无船只航行 'ceased to carry shipping of any kind. 332 00:20:40,000 --> 00:20:43,520 如今连这段记忆都在消逝 'And now, even the memory of them is fading.' 333 00:20:44,800 --> 00:20:48,520 回到岸上我前往珀斯郡乡间 Back on dry land, I head into rural Perthshire, 334 00:20:48,520 --> 00:20:50,680 寻找夜宿之处 looking for a bed for the night, 335 00:20:50,680 --> 00:20:54,320 虽然可能很潮湿 though I fear it may be a rather damp one. 336 00:20:54,320 --> 00:20:58,480 在湿透的树林深处我与旅行作家 Deep in a roan-soaked wood, I share a novel type of camping experience 337 00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:01,760 珍妮弗·考克斯体验新式露营 with travel writer Jennifer Cox, 338 00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:05,680 栖身在名为"瑞典卡塔"的异域帐篷 sheltering in an exotic tent known as a Swedish kata. 339 00:21:07,200 --> 00:21:10,560 珍妮弗，可惜天气不适合体验户外 Well, Jennifer, sadly this is not the best weather to experience 340 00:21:10,560 --> 00:21:15,240 但露营历史悠久且辉煌 life outside, but camping's got a long and illustrious history. 341 00:21:15,240 --> 00:21:16,760 确实，想象一下 Yeah, absolutely. If you imagine 342 00:21:16,760 --> 00:21:18,880 回溯到军事战役时期 right the way back to the military campaigns, 343 00:21:18,880 --> 00:21:22,600 会看到大批士兵在野外扎营 you would have seen great quantities of men camping in the field, 344 00:21:22,600 --> 00:21:24,240 辗转各地 moving from place to place. 345 00:21:24,240 --> 00:21:28,440 后来人们发展出在更可控环境中 And then people sort of developed a sense for being outdoors 346 00:21:28,440 --> 00:21:30,280 亲近自然的方式 but in a more controlled environment. 347 00:21:30,280 --> 00:21:33,960 比如狩猎旅行，在帆布下生活 So if you think about, say, safaris, where you would take your life 348 00:21:33,960 --> 00:21:37,760 享受自然的同时 out under the canvas, and enjoy nature, 349 00:21:37,760 --> 00:21:40,920 配有各种家居舒适：精美饮食 but with lots of home comforts, really good cooking, 350 00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:43,360 众多仆从和羽绒床铺 lots of servants, lots of feather beds. 351 00:21:43,360 --> 00:21:47,240 简直像带着庞大车队出行 So you would literally have a huge train travelling with you. 352 00:21:47,240 --> 00:21:50,880 同时国内有少年团和童子军 But in the meantime, at home, you would see things like 353 00:21:50,880 --> 00:21:55,520 让人们理解自然的独特 the Boys' Brigade, the Scouts, people going off and understanding 354 00:21:55,520 --> 00:21:58,480 户外生活受到推崇 that nature was something special. 355 00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:03,880 随着闲暇时间增多 The outdoor life was celebrated and encouraged. 356 00:22:03,880 --> 00:22:09,400 二战后露营成为经济实惠的度假选择 As leisure time increased, camping became an affordable holiday option, 357 00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:13,040 但经济性也是露营没落的原因 especially in the years after the Second World War. 358 00:22:13,040 --> 00:22:16,840 随着境外套餐游更便宜 But affordability was also the reason for camping's demise. 359 00:22:16,840 --> 00:22:19,480 帆布生活的简单乐趣 As foreign package holidays became cheaper, 360 00:22:19,480 --> 00:22:23,680 被现代奢侈享受取代 the simple pleasures of life under canvas fell out of favour 361 00:22:23,680 --> 00:22:26,400 但珍妮弗说我们失去了某些东西 as we embraced modern luxuries. 362 00:22:26,400 --> 00:22:29,280 讽刺的是随着我们更富裕 But Jennifer says we lost something along the way. 363 00:22:30,280 --> 00:22:34,640 对娇生惯养 Ironically, as we became more prosperous, 364 00:22:34,640 --> 00:22:37,880 一切唾手可得的反思 the idea that we were too pampered, 365 00:22:37,880 --> 00:22:41,360 科技主宰的反思 the idea that everything was laid on, 366 00:22:41,360 --> 00:22:45,760 让自然重新流行 that everything was affordable, that technology was taking over, 367 00:22:45,760 --> 00:22:51,120 -自然重新流行 -啊哈 - nature started to become more fashionable again. - Ah-ha. 368 00:22:51,120 --> 00:22:56,600 露营意味着体验自然与自我 And the idea that camping meant going out and experiencing 369 00:22:56,600 --> 00:23:01,200 更具灵性的层面 a more spiritual side, not just of nature, but of ourselves, 370 00:23:01,200 --> 00:23:04,760 这变得越来越令人向往 that became increasingly desirable, 371 00:23:04,760 --> 00:23:08,040 形成度假潮流 and increasingly a holiday movement. 372 00:23:08,040 --> 00:23:10,800 你觉得我们算回归自然了吗？ Well, do you feel we've gone back to nature here? 373 00:23:10,800 --> 00:23:13,480 眼前是美丽溪流 I'm looking at a gorgeous stream. 374 00:23:13,480 --> 00:23:16,960 -绿树环绕，有点冷 -有点冷 - Surrounded by trees. Slightly chilly. - Slightly chilly. 375 00:23:16,960 --> 00:23:19,720 - 这还不算回归自然吗！ - 五月天都能看见你呼出的白气 - It's got to be nature! - It's May and I can see your breath. 376 00:23:19,720 --> 00:23:22,640 - 就是啊！ - 这可够原生态的 - Exactly! - That's pretty primitive. 377 00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:25,160 （两人大笑） THEY LAUGH 378 00:23:27,120 --> 00:23:33,040 在卡塔帐篷里睡得像个帝王后 'Having slept like an emperor in my kata, it's time to face the elements once again. 379 00:23:33,040 --> 00:23:36,920 我受够露营和搭车了，需要犒赏自己 'I've had enough of camping and hitching. I need to treat myself.' 380 00:23:36,920 --> 00:23:38,680 天气转好，快干了 Not too bad. Drying up. 381 00:23:38,680 --> 00:23:40,760 于是我有了新座驾 'Hence, my new conveyance. 382 00:23:40,760 --> 00:23:44,240 配有司机的古董劳斯莱斯 'A chauffeur-driven, vintage Rolls-Royce.' 383 00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:45,840 （喇叭声） HORN TOOTS 384 00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:54,440 这般座驾是经典奢华的巅峰 'A vehicle like this is the apotheosis of classic luxury. 385 00:23:54,440 --> 00:23:58,920 豪华皮革与抛光胡桃木的香气 'The smell of plush leather and polished walnut fills my nostrils 386 00:23:58,920 --> 00:24:03,160 我们优雅滑过乡间 'as we glide through the countryside in style. 387 00:24:03,160 --> 00:24:06,080 -观赏世界的绝佳方式... -（喇叭声） - 'What a way to watch the world... - HORN TOOTS 388 00:24:06,080 --> 00:24:08,800 ...以及不如我们幸运的路人 '..and the less fortunate, go by. 389 00:24:10,360 --> 00:24:14,040 "到1930年代，一系列旅游指南应运而生 'By the 1930s, a range of guidebooks had appeared, 390 00:24:14,040 --> 00:24:16,320 "面向日益增长的 'aimed at the growing number of people 391 00:24:16,320 --> 00:24:18,800 "苏格兰自驾游人群 'taking motoring holidays in Scotland. 392 00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:22,320 "汽车赋予游客前所未有的 'The motor car gave tourists a previously unimagined 393 00:24:22,320 --> 00:24:25,800 "自由程度，让富裕阶层能够 'degree of freedom, allowing their wealthy owners 394 00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:29,480 "舒适奢华地穿越乡野" 'to travel through the countryside in comfort and luxury.' 395 00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:39,080 我这次壮游的最后一站来到特权阶层腹地 The last leg of my Grand Tour takes me into the heart of privilege, 396 00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:42,240 这里的过夜费用堪称天价 where a bed for the night comes at a premium. 397 00:24:45,040 --> 00:24:47,760 格伦伊格尔斯酒店是各国 The Gleneagles Hotel is familiar 398 00:24:47,760 --> 00:24:51,680 权贵富豪耳熟能详的所在 to the powerful and wealthy from around the world. 399 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:57,760 "1927年苏格兰汽车协会指南 'The Scottish RAC guidebook of 1927 400 00:24:57,760 --> 00:25:01,440 "将格伦伊格尔斯列为'最昂贵酒店 'listed Gleneagles as 'the most expensive hotel, 401 00:25:01,440 --> 00:25:05,040 "每晚高达19先令6便士 'costing a staggering 19 shillings and sixpence a night, 402 00:25:05,040 --> 00:25:08,320 "折合现今95便士" 'which comes out at 95 pence in today's money.' 403 00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:12,240 如此奢华竟还找得开一英镑！ All this and you still get change from a pound! 404 00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:17,640 "实际上1927年的19先令6便士 'Of course, the reality was that 19 shillings and sixpence 405 00:25:17,640 --> 00:25:22,400 "相当于体力劳动者一周工资 'was the equivalent of a week's wages for a manual labourer in 1927. 406 00:25:22,400 --> 00:25:25,920 "其实并不便宜" 'So not so cheap after all.' 407 00:25:25,920 --> 00:25:29,960 当时苏格兰皇家汽车协会对入选指南的酒店 Now, the Royal Scottish Automobile Association imposed a rather 408 00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:35,040 有项奇特要求——必须配备 curious condition on any hotel that wanted to be included in its guidebook, 409 00:25:35,040 --> 00:25:39,520 十码长的软管 and that was the stipulation for a ten-yard hose. 410 00:25:39,520 --> 00:25:41,920 原因很简单 And the reason was quite simple. 411 00:25:41,920 --> 00:25:44,920 方便司机清洗车辆 It's so that your chauffeur could wash your car. 412 00:25:47,520 --> 00:25:53,520 格伦伊格尔斯1924年作为高尔夫度假酒店开业 Gleneagles opened in 1924 as a luxury golf hotel resort. 413 00:25:53,520 --> 00:25:57,760 由喀里多尼亚铁路公司兴建，配有专属车站 Built by the Caledonian Railway Company, with its own station, 414 00:25:57,760 --> 00:26:01,440 被誉为"高地的里维埃拉" Gleneagles was hailed as a Riviera in the Highlands, 415 00:26:01,440 --> 00:26:03,560 和"世界第八大奇迹" and the eighth Wonder Of The World. 416 00:26:04,840 --> 00:26:10,040 BBC认可其卓越地位 And the BBC acknowledged the hotel's superior credentials 417 00:26:10,040 --> 00:26:14,000 选择这里进行苏格兰史上首次 when it chose Gleneagles as the location for the first-ever 418 00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:16,840 无线电广播 Scottish radio broadcast. 419 00:26:16,840 --> 00:26:20,160 当时著名作曲家亨利·霍尔 Henry Hall, the popular composer of the time, 420 00:26:20,160 --> 00:26:24,160 指挥舞曲乐团为现场宾客 conducted his dance orchestra for the benefit of guests 421 00:26:24,160 --> 00:26:27,560 及大英帝国听众演出 and wireless listeners across the Empire. 422 00:26:28,840 --> 00:26:32,720 "留下司机乔治洗车 'Leaving my chauffeur, George, to wash the car, 423 00:26:32,720 --> 00:26:35,960 "我入住格伦伊格尔斯最昂贵的 'I check into the most expensive suite at Gleneagles, 424 00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:38,800 "皇家洛赫纳加套房 'The Royal Lochnagar. 425 00:26:38,800 --> 00:26:42,760 "经理帕特里克·埃尔斯米带我参观" 'The manager, Patrick Elsmie, shows me around.' 426 00:26:42,760 --> 00:26:45,240 这房间太棒了，帕特里克 It's a fabulous room, Patrick. 427 00:26:45,240 --> 00:26:48,760 格伦伊格尔斯的名声主要建立在 I suppose that Gleneagles has really kind of based its reputation 428 00:26:48,760 --> 00:26:52,000 特权与专属的概念上，对吧？ on the idea of privilege and exclusivity, is that not right? 429 00:26:52,000 --> 00:26:54,720 人们向来钟爱格伦伊格尔斯 I think people have always enjoyed coming to Gleneagles. 430 00:26:54,720 --> 00:26:57,000 珀斯郡这带风光绝美 This part of Perthshire is such a fabulous place. 431 00:26:57,000 --> 00:27:00,200 格伦伊格尔斯乃至苏格兰多年来的魅力 And what Gleneagles offers, and what Scotland's offered over the years 432 00:27:00,200 --> 00:27:02,800 吸引着真正渴望来此 has really attracted people who've really wanted to come 433 00:27:02,800 --> 00:27:05,520 享受这般住宿体验的客人 to Gleneagles to enjoy accommodations like this. 434 00:27:05,520 --> 00:27:08,760 这样的套房要多少钱？ How much would a room, or a suite like this cost you? 435 00:27:08,760 --> 00:27:12,240 视季节而定，通常在夏季 Well, of course it depends what time of the year people come, but it varies. 436 00:27:12,240 --> 00:27:16,760 每晚约1800英镑 Usually during our summer months it's around £1,800 a night. 437 00:27:16,760 --> 00:27:19,400 1800英镑是全包价吗？ £1,800 a night. Is that all-in? 438 00:27:19,400 --> 00:27:23,400 -含晚餐酒水还是仅住宿？ -含早餐和增值税 - Does that include dinner, drinks, or is that just your bed? - Bed, breakfast and VAT. 439 00:27:23,400 --> 00:27:26,760 想必有不少名人下榻于此 Now, presumably you have quite a lot of famous people staying here. 440 00:27:26,760 --> 00:27:31,680 格伦伊格尔斯的名声正建立在历代贵客之上 Well, over the years Gleneagles built its reputation, I think, on those that have come to stay here. 441 00:27:31,680 --> 00:27:33,640 让我猜猜 Now let me guess. 442 00:27:33,640 --> 00:27:37,320 布莱尔或布什家族可曾入住？ Is it possible that one of the Blairs or perhaps the Bushs stayed here? 443 00:27:37,320 --> 00:27:41,200 曾有八位重要客人下榻 Well, we obviously had eight very important guests that stayed at Gleneagles, 444 00:27:41,200 --> 00:27:45,280 其中一位确实住过这间套房 so you can rest assured that one of them was definitely in this particular suite, yes. 445 00:27:46,720 --> 00:27:50,400 "想到曾有政要在此下榻 'Thinking of the political greats who've dipped their toe here before me, 446 00:27:50,400 --> 00:27:54,320 "我期待着拖鞋浴缸的享受" 'I anticipate the delights of the slipper bath.' 447 00:27:54,320 --> 00:27:55,880 （开瓶声） CORK POPS 448 00:27:57,160 --> 00:27:59,440 "沉浸在这奢华之中 'As I wallow in this luxury, 449 00:27:59,440 --> 00:28:02,840 "我想起早期来苏格兰的游客 'I think of the early tourists who came to Scotland. 450 00:28:02,840 --> 00:28:06,960 "他们渴望体验异域的新奇 'They wanted to experience the novelty of being somewhere different, 451 00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:09,680 "感受狂野与浪漫 'somewhere wild and romantic. 452 00:28:09,680 --> 00:28:15,080 "但百年后，这些奢华很容易让人 'But 100 years later, it's easy to find yourself shut off from the real Scotland 453 00:28:15,080 --> 00:28:21,200 "与真实的苏格兰隔绝，忘记莎拉·穆雷那样的冒险" 'by all this finery, and to forget the adventures of Sarah Murray and her like.' 454 00:28:21,200 --> 00:28:23,880 当然我绝非抱怨 Not that I'm complaining in any way. 455 00:28:23,880 --> 00:28:28,080 只要有心探寻，冒险依然无处不在 And there's still plenty of adventure to be had for those willing to look for it. 456 00:28:28,080 --> 00:28:31,800 既然来了，不如尽情享受 And since I'm here, I may as well enjoy myself. 457 00:28:31,800 --> 00:28:35,960 毕竟这是绝佳的夜宿之处 After all, this is a pretty fine bed for the night. 458 00:28:35,960 --> 00:28:39,120 -啊！ -（满足的叹息） - Ahhh! - HE SIGHS CONTENTEDLY 459 00:28:39,120 --> 00:28:41,280 极致奢华！ Luxury! 460 00:28:42,600 --> 00:28:47,120 欢迎继续收看我的下一站苏格兰的伟大之旅 Join me on my next Grand Tour Of Scotland 461 00:28:47,120 --> 00:28:50,600 我们将从彭斯故里到假日营地，探访艾尔郡 when I'm in Ayrshire, travelling from Burns to Butlins.