1 00:00:02,640 --> 00:00:06,320 有人来到苏格兰探寻历史。 Some people come to Scotland to explore the past. 2 00:00:07,640 --> 00:00:10,920 有人为壮丽风光而来。 Some come to witness the spectacular landscapes. 3 00:00:10,920 --> 00:00:15,880 而如今，越来越多人是为享受自然奇观而来。 But increasingly, many come here to enjoy the splendours of nature. 4 00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:23,160 对我而言，这是全英伦独一无二的存在， For me, there's nowhere else like this in the whole of the UK, 5 00:00:23,160 --> 00:00:27,560 若你想体验狂野人生， and if you want to experience the wild side of life, 6 00:00:27,560 --> 00:00:29,760 这里就是你的不二之选！ then this is where you have to be! 7 00:00:33,480 --> 00:00:37,320 但前往苏格兰的绝美景致， But getting to Scotland's spectacular locations 8 00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:41,520 对普通游客向来是个挑战。 has always been something of a challenge for the average tourist. 9 00:00:41,520 --> 00:00:47,360 维多利亚时代，《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》应运而生， In Victorian times, Black's Picturesque Guide To Scotland came to the rescue, 10 00:00:47,360 --> 00:00:51,000 提供了多条穿越全国的路线建议。 suggesting a multitude of different routes across the country. 11 00:00:53,800 --> 00:00:59,040 针对胆识过人的游客，书中还收录了各种长途步道， For the more intrepid tourists, Black's included a variety of long-distance walks 12 00:00:59,040 --> 00:01:02,720 引领冒险的维多利亚时代旅人深入荒野。 that led adventurous Victorians into the wilderness. 13 00:01:04,160 --> 00:01:07,280 以《布莱克指南》为灵感与路书， Using Black's as my inspiration and guide, 14 00:01:07,280 --> 00:01:12,000 我将另辟蹊径，横跨苏格兰东西海岸， I'm travelling off the beaten track, crossing the country from coast to coast, 15 00:01:12,000 --> 00:01:15,840 重走首批自然爱好者的探索之路。 and retracing the steps of these first nature lovers. 16 00:01:28,840 --> 00:01:32,880 我的苏格兰壮游始于多诺赫湾畔 My Grand Tour across Scotland begins on a remote peninsula 17 00:01:32,880 --> 00:01:35,160 一处偏远半岛， overlooking the Dornoch Firth, 18 00:01:35,160 --> 00:01:37,600 途经历史名镇克罗默蒂， heads towards historic Cromarty, 19 00:01:37,600 --> 00:01:42,080 继而沿高地古道穿越喀里多尼亚松林， and then takes the high road into a Caledonian pine forest, 20 00:01:42,080 --> 00:01:44,720 踏上通往西海岸的千年驿道。 on an ancient route to the west coast. 21 00:01:46,560 --> 00:01:51,000 旅程起点是我再熟悉不过的地方—— I'm starting my journey at a place that's very familiar to me. 22 00:01:52,160 --> 00:01:55,800 俯瞰多诺赫湾的塔伯特角灯塔。 Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, overlooking the Dornoch Firth. 23 00:01:58,680 --> 00:02:04,360 1830年灯塔建成前，这片险恶礁石 These treacherous rocks claimed numerous lives before Tarbat Ness lighthouse 24 00:02:04,360 --> 00:02:05,560 曾吞噬无数生命。 was built in 1830. 25 00:02:07,760 --> 00:02:11,320 40米高的塔身使其成为苏格兰最高灯塔之一。 At 40 metres, it's one of the tallest in Scotland. 26 00:02:14,640 --> 00:02:19,160 重见这座古老灯塔唤醒了尘封记忆。 Seeing this old lighthouse brings back all kinds of memories. 27 00:02:19,160 --> 00:02:25,520 十七岁那年，塔伯特角曾短暂承载过我的"家"的概念。 When I was 17, Tarbat Ness was, for a brief period, the place I called home. 28 00:02:28,960 --> 00:02:33,880 1978年我曾供职于北方灯塔委员会， Back in 1978 I had a job with the Northern Lighthouse Board, 29 00:02:33,880 --> 00:02:38,000 塔伯特角是驻守站点之一。 and Tarbat Ness was one of the lighthouses I was stationed at. 30 00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:50,080 上世纪70年代工作时，灯塔主管住这栋房子， When I worked here in the 1970s, the principal lighthouse keeper lived in this house here, 31 00:02:50,080 --> 00:02:52,800 助手住这栋， and his assistant lived in this one. 32 00:02:52,800 --> 00:02:59,520 而我"荣幸"地被安排在那边的杂物间栖身。 Now it was my dubious pleasure to be accommodated over there in the bothy. 33 00:02:59,520 --> 00:03:03,360 必须承认，看守灯塔的生活 Now, I have to say that tending the light here wasn't perhaps 34 00:03:03,360 --> 00:03:06,240 既不光鲜也乏善可陈， the most glamorous or interesting of lifestyles, 35 00:03:06,240 --> 00:03:09,480 但偶尔造访的游客会打破单调， but occasionally the monotony was broken by a visiting tourist, 36 00:03:09,480 --> 00:03:13,040 他们总好奇我们的工作和生活。 who was curious to find out what we did here and how we lived. 37 00:03:13,040 --> 00:03:16,240 而接待任务通常落在我肩上。 And it was usually left up to me to show them around. 38 00:03:23,200 --> 00:03:25,720 真是往事历历在目。 This brings back memories. 39 00:03:26,760 --> 00:03:31,280 游客自然都想登顶灯塔。 Of course, all the tourists wanted to go to the top of the tower. 40 00:03:31,280 --> 00:03:34,520 但他们攀爬时浑然不知， But as we climbed the steps, they little realised 41 00:03:34,520 --> 00:03:38,440 沾满泥泞的靴子正给我增添工作量。 that their dirty boots were making more work for me. 42 00:03:38,440 --> 00:03:41,680 这座灯塔共有219级台阶。 There are 219 steps in this lighthouse. 43 00:03:41,680 --> 00:03:44,960 这个数字深深刻在我记忆里， Now, that's a number that's seared into my memory, 44 00:03:44,960 --> 00:03:50,120 因为当年我的工作就是用煤油浸透的棉纱， because when I worked here it was my job to clean them all, by hand, 45 00:03:50,120 --> 00:03:53,200 亲手擦拭每一级台阶。 with cotton waste soaked in paraffin. 46 00:03:53,200 --> 00:03:58,920 由于消防规定严禁携带煤油上楼， And because the fire regulations were such that you weren't allowed to take the paraffin with you, 47 00:03:58,920 --> 00:04:04,680 我只能在底层浸湿棉纱，爬完219级， I had to soak it in the basement and climb 219 steps, 48 00:04:04,680 --> 00:04:09,360 擦5级，再下214级， clean 5 steps, descend 214 steps, 49 00:04:09,360 --> 00:04:13,760 如此循环往复， and repeat the process over and over again 50 00:04:13,760 --> 00:04:18,640 直到主管对我的手艺满意为止。 until the principal keeper was satisfied with my handiwork. 51 00:04:18,640 --> 00:04:20,360 啊，美好时光！（才怪） Oh, happy days(!) 52 00:04:23,200 --> 00:04:27,040 "灯塔看守人绝非人人能胜任， 'Being a lighthouse keeper wouldn't be for everyone, 53 00:04:27,040 --> 00:04:30,040 "不仅因为数不尽的台阶。 'and not just because of all the stairs. 54 00:04:30,040 --> 00:04:34,280 "这里沿袭着严格的纪律与精准的守时传统， 'There was a long tradition of discipline and rigorous timekeeping 55 00:04:34,280 --> 00:04:37,240 "对少年时的我着实艰难。" 'that, as a teenager, I found pretty hard going.' 56 00:04:40,360 --> 00:04:45,160 现在这里与我工作时截然不同了。 Now, this is completely different from when I worked here. 57 00:04:45,160 --> 00:04:48,440 当年这里有盏煤油灯， Back in my day, a paraffin lamp stood there, 58 00:04:48,440 --> 00:04:52,000 我的工作是维持内部气压。 and it was my job to maintain the pressure inside. 59 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:58,560 还要给驱动旋转的发条装置上弦。 It was also my job to wind up the clockwork mechanism that kept the whole thing turning. 60 00:04:58,560 --> 00:05:01,440 游客登顶看到这些装置时， And when tourists came up here and saw all of that, 61 00:05:01,440 --> 00:05:06,920 总会惊叹不已——如此原始又过时。 they were absolutely amazed - it seemed so primitive and old-fashioned. 62 00:05:06,920 --> 00:05:13,440 确实如此，而我参与的正是延续至少百年的传统。 And of course it was, and I was part of a tradition that was at least a century old. 63 00:05:13,440 --> 00:05:15,800 这么一想感觉自己真是古董了！ Now, that makes me feel pretty ancient! 64 00:05:20,960 --> 00:05:25,280 如今现代灯塔已全面自动化， Today, modern lighthouses are fully automated, 65 00:05:25,280 --> 00:05:29,760 不再需要人工值守。 meaning there's no longer any need for keepers to be stationed here. 66 00:05:29,760 --> 00:05:33,960 但始终未变的是壮阔景色—— But one thing that hasn't changed are the stunning views 67 00:05:33,960 --> 00:05:38,240 北眺多诺赫湾，南望克罗默蒂湾， over the Dornoch Firth to the North, and the Cromarty Firth to the south, 68 00:05:38,240 --> 00:05:41,240 我的下一站正是后者。 which is where my route takes me next. 69 00:05:45,160 --> 00:05:46,840 这两座苏塔尔岬角， These are The Soutars, 70 00:05:46,840 --> 00:05:51,360 如卫士般扼守着克罗默蒂湾入口。 two massive headlands that guard the entrance to the Cromarty Firth. 71 00:05:51,360 --> 00:05:54,400 《布莱克指南》将这片海湾描述为 Black's describes this arm of the sea as 72 00:05:54,400 --> 00:05:59,360 "绝佳避风港，四面屏障周全"。 "a first-rate harbour or refuge, being completely sheltered." 73 00:05:59,360 --> 00:06:02,240 但如今许多游客前来寻觅的奇观， But many of today's visitors come to catch sight of something 74 00:06:02,240 --> 00:06:07,160 在这本维多利亚指南中只字未提。 that's not even hinted at in my old Victorian guidebook. 75 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:13,000 每年5至9月，游船会载客穿梭克罗默蒂湾， From May to September, small boats take tourists across the waters of the Cromarty Firth 76 00:06:13,000 --> 00:06:18,480 寻找深受喜爱却行踪不定的宽吻海豚。 in search of the much loved but elusive Tursiops truncatus, 77 00:06:18,480 --> 00:06:21,840 better known as the bottlenose dolphin. 78 00:06:21,840 --> 00:06:23,120 啊，没拍到！ Oh, missed it! 79 00:06:25,600 --> 00:06:28,320 我们非常幸运能拥有常驻的 We're very lucky to have a resident population 80 00:06:28,320 --> 00:06:30,600 宽吻海豚种群， of these bottlenose dolphins up here, 81 00:06:30,600 --> 00:06:34,320 全年都能观赏它们的身影。 and it's lovely to be able to see them 12 months of the year. 82 00:06:34,320 --> 00:06:38,080 摄影师兼博物学家查理·菲利普斯供职于 Photographer and naturalist Charlie Phillips works for 83 00:06:38,080 --> 00:06:41,680 世界顶尖的海豚保护组织。 the world's leading dolphin conservation society. 84 00:06:41,680 --> 00:06:46,200 自1980年代起，查理就开始研究这些神奇生物。 Charlie has been studying these amazing animals since the 1980s. 85 00:06:51,200 --> 00:06:54,000 他拍摄的精彩照片完美诠释了 His remarkable pictures brilliantly demonstrate 86 00:06:54,000 --> 00:06:56,200 为何它们如此讨人喜爱。 just why they're such crowd pleasers. 87 00:07:00,280 --> 00:07:02,320 这片海域有多少海豚？ How many dolphins live in this area? 88 00:07:02,320 --> 00:07:07,280 整个种群不足200头，约195或196头。 The entire population, just below 200, maybe about 195, 196. 89 00:07:07,280 --> 00:07:10,680 -200头！ -200! -但分散在苏格兰整个东海岸。 -Yeah, but that's spread out all the way down the east coast of Scotland. 90 00:07:10,680 --> 00:07:12,240 数量不少啊。 That's a large number. 91 00:07:12,240 --> 00:07:16,320 对于大型掠食者种群来说并不多。 It's not really, not when you're talking about a population of big predators. 92 00:07:16,320 --> 00:07:19,080 它们在此栖息多久了？ How long have the dolphins been in this area? 93 00:07:19,080 --> 00:07:24,160 历史记录可追溯至19世纪末。 We can look back historical records to about the late 1800s. 94 00:07:24,160 --> 00:07:30,240 作为北海海域，历来就有相关记载， This being part of the North Sea, there probably have always been citations of some sort going about, 95 00:07:30,240 --> 00:07:35,160 但最初出现时间已不可考。 but we're not quite sure exactly when these dolphins turned up in the first place. 96 00:07:35,160 --> 00:07:40,120 -难以想象这些野生动物就栖息在海岸附近。 -是啊。 -It's extraordinary to think that these animals, these wild animals, are just off our coast. -Yeah. 97 00:07:40,120 --> 00:07:43,240 很多人从未见过它们，我原先也不知道。 A lot of people have never seen them before. I didn't realise that. 98 00:07:43,240 --> 00:07:48,920 在苏格兰海岸线附近， Yeah, we don't... You know, you really don't need to go very far around the coast of Scotland 99 00:07:48,920 --> 00:07:52,200 总能看到令人惊叹的景象，相信我。 before you'll see something that makes your jaw drop, believe me. 100 00:07:52,200 --> 00:07:53,880 我从事这行多年， I've been doing this a long time now, 101 00:07:53,880 --> 00:07:58,000 每次见到这些美丽巨兽，心跳仍会加速。 and every time I see these beautiful, big animals, my heart beats a little bit faster. 102 00:08:09,400 --> 00:08:12,040 来高地度假时， You can come up to the Highlands on holiday 103 00:08:12,040 --> 00:08:16,400 你可能会与近在咫尺的宽吻海豚不期而遇。 and be confronted with bottlenose dolphins maybe ten feet from you. 104 00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:21,600 这将成为你记忆中永恒的闪光点。 That's something that's going to remain in your brain for a long, long time. 105 00:08:21,600 --> 00:08:26,520 我热爱它们——这些拥有复杂社会结构的高智商巨型掠食者。 I love them because they are big, intelligent predators that have a complicated life. 106 00:08:26,520 --> 00:08:30,880 光是生存就殊为不易，我钦佩它们的生存智慧。 So they've got quite a tough job just living day-to-day, and I admire them for what they do. 107 00:08:30,880 --> 00:08:32,800 希望今天还能多见到几只。 Well, I hope we see some more today. 108 00:08:34,760 --> 00:08:40,760 我还想向查理请教拍摄惊艳照片的秘诀。 'And I'm also hoping Charlie can give me some tips on how he manages to take such amazing pictures.' 109 00:08:45,360 --> 00:08:46,760 又没抓拍到。 I keep missing it. 110 00:08:46,760 --> 00:08:49,120 发现海豚是一回事， There's one thing spotting a dolphin, 111 00:08:49,120 --> 00:08:52,080 用镜头定格却是另一番功夫。 and there's another matter entirely capturing it on film. 112 00:08:52,080 --> 00:08:54,520 确实需要些技巧。 Yeah, getting them on camera can be tricky. 113 00:08:59,480 --> 00:09:03,720 有时靠运气。某些海豚的行为可预测， Sometimes it's luck. There are certain animals that you can almost predict what they're going to do, 114 00:09:03,720 --> 00:09:08,000 但它们偶尔会展现前所未见的举动。 but every now and again they do stuff that you've just never seen before. 115 00:09:11,200 --> 00:09:14,440 北方海豚格外坚韧。 'These northern dolphins are a hardy bunch. 116 00:09:14,440 --> 00:09:19,800 寒冷水域使它们比温暖海域的近亲需要更厚的脂肪层。 'The cold waters mean they need more blubber than their southern cousins in warmer seas. 117 00:09:22,400 --> 00:09:26,200 成年雄性体长可达惊人的四米。 'An adult male can grow to a staggering four metres long.' 118 00:09:30,040 --> 00:09:31,760 又没拍到！ I keep missing it! 119 00:09:31,760 --> 00:09:35,160 但体型优势并未让拍摄变得轻松。 'But this doesn't make it any easier for me to get my picture. 120 00:09:36,920 --> 00:09:38,840 我怀疑它们在故意逗我。 'I'm beginning to think they're teasing me.' 121 00:09:41,960 --> 00:09:44,280 告别查理与海豚群后， Saying farewell to Charlie and the dolphins, 122 00:09:44,280 --> 00:09:46,600 我重返陆地继续旅程。 I head back to dry land to continue my journey. 123 00:09:47,840 --> 00:09:51,800 下一站是克罗默蒂镇。 My next port of call is Cromarty. 124 00:09:51,800 --> 00:09:55,560 布莱克时代这里是繁忙的港口， In Black's time, this was a bustling port, 125 00:09:55,560 --> 00:09:59,880 如今众多历史建筑仍保存完好。 and today much of its historic architecture has been preserved. 126 00:09:59,880 --> 00:10:05,920 曾带来经济繁荣的鲱鱼船队早已消失， The herring boats which once made this a boom town are long gone, 127 00:10:05,920 --> 00:10:10,760 但《布莱克指南》记载克罗默蒂最负盛名的， but according to my copy of Black's, Cromarty's chief claim to fame 128 00:10:10,760 --> 00:10:14,720 是作为维多利亚时代名人的诞生地。 is as the birthplace of a Victorian celebrity. 129 00:10:14,720 --> 00:10:22,560 "镇郊立有方尖碑纪念休·米勒—— My guide says, "An Obelisk has been erected near the town to the memory of Hugh Miller, 130 00:10:22,560 --> 00:10:26,320 《老红砂岩》等名著作者。" "the author of Old Red Sandstone and other well-known works." 131 00:10:28,240 --> 00:10:30,960 说来惭愧， Now, I have to confess my ignorance, here. 132 00:10:30,960 --> 00:10:33,720 我此前从未听闻休·米勒其人， I've never actually heard of Hugh Miller before, 133 00:10:33,720 --> 00:10:37,560 亦不知其名著《老红砂岩》。 or of his celebrated book, Old Red Sandstone. 134 00:10:37,560 --> 00:10:40,440 既然机缘巧合至此， So I think it would be perverse of me in the extreme 135 00:10:40,440 --> 00:10:43,720 自当把握这补课良机。 to turn down the opportunity for a little enlightenment. 136 00:10:44,840 --> 00:10:50,440 休·米勒是石匠出身的自学地质学家。 Hugh Miller was a stonemason and self-taught geologist. 137 00:10:50,440 --> 00:10:55,360 1841年出版的《老红砂岩》记载了 His famous book, The Old Red Sandstone, published in 1841, 138 00:10:55,360 --> 00:10:59,560 他在沉积岩中的化石发现， documented his discovery of fossils in sedimentary rocks, 139 00:10:59,560 --> 00:11:06,080 证实远古物种早在数亿年前就已栖息地球。 proving that now extinct species had inhabited the earth many millions of years ago. 140 00:11:06,080 --> 00:11:09,000 米勒的研究影响深远， Miller's work was enormously influential, 141 00:11:09,000 --> 00:11:12,920 其重要性至今仍被科学界公认。 and his importance is recognised by scientists and scholars today. 142 00:11:14,080 --> 00:11:16,880 但对大众而言他已湮没无闻， 'But to most people, he's largely forgotten,' 143 00:11:16,880 --> 00:11:20,400 为深入了解，我来到他的出生小屋。 'so to find out more about him, I've come to the cottage where he was born.' 144 00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:24,080 -艾莉克丝。 -欢迎来到休·米勒故居。 -多谢。 -请进。 - Alix. - Hello, welcome to Hugh Miller's birthplace cottage. - Thanks very much. - Come in. 145 00:11:24,080 --> 00:11:26,960 这里现已成为纪念其生平的博物馆， 'It's now a museum dedicated to his life and work,' 146 00:11:26,960 --> 00:11:30,720 馆长艾莉克丝·鲍尔斯-琼斯接待了我。 'and Alix Powers-Jones is the curator.' 147 00:11:30,720 --> 00:11:35,000 -温馨的小屋！ -小心碰头，屋檐很低。 - A lovely wee room! - It is, but watch your head. It's very low ceilings. 148 00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:41,160 艾莉克丝，我对休·米勒知之甚少。他究竟是何方神圣？ Alix, I know next to nothing about Hugh Miller. But why should I, who was he? 149 00:11:41,160 --> 00:11:45,040 他是位非凡的传奇人物， Hugh Miller was an amazing man, a remarkable man, 150 00:11:45,040 --> 00:11:49,440 身兼作家、地质学家、石匠、 because he was a writer, a geologist, a stonemason, 151 00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:52,800 社会运动家、时事评论家多重身份。 a campaigner, a social commentator. 152 00:11:52,800 --> 00:11:55,240 他观察记录周遭万物， He observed everything around him, 153 00:11:55,240 --> 00:11:58,160 笔耕不辍。 and he wrote about everything around him. 154 00:11:58,160 --> 00:12:02,480 他顶着一头红发，蓄着络腮胡， He'd got a big wash of red hair and mutton chop whiskers, 155 00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:07,240 肩披格子呢披风， and he strode through Edinburgh with a shepherd's plaid, a tartan, 156 00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:10,600 昂首阔步穿行爱丁堡街头。 tossed over his shoulder, and he would stride through Edinburgh. 157 00:12:10,600 --> 00:12:14,840 -这是造型需要？ -正是，他刻意塑造... - Was this for sartorial effect? - I think so, yes, he just sort of... 158 00:12:14,840 --> 00:12:17,320 这是他的个人标志。 This was his persona that he created. 159 00:12:17,320 --> 00:12:20,400 个性十足。 He had a real character. 160 00:12:20,400 --> 00:12:22,560 他就出生在这间小屋？ And was born right here in this cottage? 161 00:12:22,560 --> 00:12:25,120 是的，在楼上房间， He was, he was born upstairs, 162 00:12:25,120 --> 00:12:28,480 米勒家族四代人都住在这个狭小空间。 one of four generations of Miller, in a tiny little room. 163 00:12:28,480 --> 00:12:33,080 幼年的休·米勒在这聆听母亲讲述民间故事， As a child, Hugh Miller listened to his mother's stories in this cottage, 164 00:12:33,080 --> 00:12:37,520 由此萌生对民俗传说的热爱。 and developed a love of folklore that fired his imagination. 165 00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:43,120 当走进传说故事发生的真实地貌， Venturing out into the landscape where these tales were set, 166 00:12:43,120 --> 00:12:48,320 少年休对当地的植物与地质产生了浓厚兴趣。 the young Hugh became fascinated with the plant life and geology that he found there. 167 00:12:49,640 --> 00:12:57,400 他写道："生活即课堂，自然永为新知。" He wrote, "Life itself is a school, and nature always a fresh study." 168 00:12:57,400 --> 00:13:01,760 但声名鼎盛之时，米勒的人生却戛然而止。 But at the height of his fame, Miller's life ended tragically. 169 00:13:01,760 --> 00:13:03,320 发生了什么？ Alix, what happened to Hugh Miller? 170 00:13:03,320 --> 00:13:06,920 很遗憾，他举枪自尽。 Well, it was very sad. He shot himself. 171 00:13:06,920 --> 00:13:09,400 长期遭受剧烈头痛折磨， He suffered from very severe headaches. 172 00:13:09,400 --> 00:13:12,640 现代医学研究者根据其症状记录， Modern doctors today, reading what he wrote, 173 00:13:12,640 --> 00:13:14,960 推断可能罹患脑瘤。 think that he had a brain tumour. 174 00:13:14,960 --> 00:13:18,440 剧痛难忍又不知病因， But he was in very extreme pain, he didn't know what was happening. 175 00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:22,160 -原来如此。 -极端痛苦会令人做出极端选择。 - Uh-huh. - And in extreme circumstances people do extreme things. 176 00:13:23,880 --> 00:13:27,120 他的身后哀荣可配得上生前盛名？ Was he celebrated in death as he had been in life? 177 00:13:27,120 --> 00:13:33,160 爱丁堡全城为他停摆送行。 He was. His funeral in Edinburgh brought the city to a standstill. 178 00:13:33,160 --> 00:13:37,560 人们感念他带来的思想启迪， People acknowledged the impact that he had made upon their lives, 179 00:13:37,560 --> 00:13:43,600 这座茅草屋在1890年就成为博物馆—— and this place, the thatched cottage, became a museum in 1890. 180 00:13:43,600 --> 00:13:46,240 距其离世仅约四十年。 So only about 40 years after he died. 181 00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:49,520 可见下一代人就已认识到他的价值。 So even then, a generation later, his importance had been recognised. 182 00:13:49,520 --> 00:13:55,200 确实，人们渴望了解他的生活轨迹。 Absolutely, people wanted to know, they wanted to come and see where he'd lived, where he'd been born. 183 00:13:55,200 --> 00:13:58,560 早期来克罗默蒂的游客必定会到此 Some of the first tourists to come to Cromarty would have come here 184 00:13:58,560 --> 00:14:02,240 -瞻仰米勒故居。 -正是如此。 - to have a look at the birthplace of Hugh Miller. - They would, yes, absolutely. 185 00:14:02,240 --> 00:14:05,200 -至今游客仍络绎不绝吧？ -确实如此。 - And they're still coming, I presume. - And they are still coming. 186 00:14:10,600 --> 00:14:13,680 休·米勒希望人们以全新视角 Hugh Miller wanted people to see the world anew, 187 00:14:13,680 --> 00:14:16,600 观察世界。 to see the world through fresh eyes. 188 00:14:16,600 --> 00:14:22,400 他对自然的热情教会我们万物互联的道理。 And his passion for the environment teaches us how everything is connected. 189 00:14:22,400 --> 00:14:26,320 如今每个徒步乡野的旅人， And anyone who enjoys tramping through the countryside today 190 00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:31,960 不仅踏着米勒的足迹，更延续着他的精神。 isn't just following in Miller's footsteps, but also sharing his vision. 191 00:14:37,880 --> 00:14:42,680 受休·米勒探索精神的感召， Inspired by Hugh Miller's passion for exploring wild places, 192 00:14:42,680 --> 00:14:46,560 我告别东海岸向内陆进发， I'm leaving the east coast behind and heading inland 193 00:14:46,560 --> 00:14:48,360 前往高地地区。 towards the Highlands. 194 00:14:48,360 --> 00:14:50,920 阿弗里克峡谷常被誉为 Glen Affric is often described 195 00:14:50,920 --> 00:14:54,400 "苏格兰最美峡谷"。 as "the most beautiful glen in Scotland." 196 00:15:02,680 --> 00:15:06,640 值此良辰，谁能否认呢？ And on a day like today, who can disagree? 197 00:15:08,720 --> 00:15:12,400 前方是绵延30英里的原始森林、 Ahead of me lies 30 miles of ancient woodland, 198 00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:16,080 壮丽峡谷、湖泊河流与起伏山峦。 spectacular glens, lochs, rivers and hills. 199 00:15:17,840 --> 00:15:22,680 这里孕育了众多维多利亚时代艺术家， the landscape here was the inspiration for many Victorian artists, 200 00:15:22,680 --> 00:15:25,240 最著名的当属埃德温·兰西尔， most famously Edwin Landseer, 201 00:15:25,240 --> 00:15:31,280 其代表作《幽谷之王》便取景于此。 who used this setting for his best-known painting, Monarch of the Glen. 202 00:15:31,280 --> 00:15:36,720 为翻越群山，我选择了传统交通工具。 And to get me over the mountains, I've chosen a traditional mode of transport. 203 00:15:36,720 --> 00:15:38,760 （马嘶声） PONY NEIGHS 204 00:15:42,120 --> 00:15:44,600 好孩子，走吧。 Good boy, Come on. 205 00:15:44,600 --> 00:15:49,080 这位是罗吉，我这段旅程的伙伴。 'Meet Rogie, my companion for this part of my journey. 206 00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:56,560 罗吉熟谙此路，虽然它颇有主见—— 'Rogie knows this path well, although I have to say he has a mind of his own, 207 00:15:56,560 --> 00:16:00,240 宁愿走石楠丛也不愿走石径。 'preferring the heather verge to the stony track. 208 00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:04,080 我们穿行的这片森林是现存最大遗迹， 'The trees we are riding among are the largest surviving remnant 209 00:16:04,080 --> 00:16:07,200 属于曾覆盖苏格兰的喀里多尼亚松林， 'of the once-mighty Caledonian pine forest 210 00:16:07,200 --> 00:16:12,560 自冰河时期便延绵于此。 'that stretched across Scotland after the last Ice Age. 211 00:16:12,560 --> 00:16:16,120 《布莱克指南》描绘得极具画面感： 'And Black's paints a dramatic picture. 212 00:16:16,120 --> 00:16:20,600 "在此可感受原始森林的壮阔， '"Here, you can get a sense of its primeval grandeur. 213 00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:25,760 "参天桦树与金字塔般的冷杉投下幽暗树影， '"Gigantic birch trees and towering, pyramidal firs cast their sombre shadows 214 00:16:25,760 --> 00:16:28,920 "笼罩着下方奔涌的溪流。" '"over the restless stream, which brawls below."' 215 00:16:42,400 --> 00:16:44,520 加油罗吉！ Come on, Rogie! 216 00:16:44,520 --> 00:16:50,760 维多利亚时代，马匹是深入高地的必备工具。 'In Victorian times, the horse was indispensable to visitors travelling to the remote Highlands. 217 00:16:50,760 --> 00:16:54,960 《布莱克指南》甚至给出了租马参考价—— 'Black's even offers advice on the average cost of rental. 218 00:16:54,960 --> 00:16:58,760 租罗吉这样的马每日需六七先令。 'A horse like Rogie would set you back six or seven shillings for the day.' 219 00:17:00,280 --> 00:17:05,480 当时体力劳动者周薪仅六先令， When you realise that the average weekly wage for a manual labourer back then 220 00:17:05,480 --> 00:17:10,160 可见能负担马匹开销的 was just six shillings, you get an idea of how wealthy you had to be 221 00:17:10,160 --> 00:17:13,400 必是富贵阶层。 to be able to afford the privilege of horsepower. 222 00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:19,600 而特权阶级骑在马背上， And for those that could afford it, riding high gave them an added sense of superiority, 223 00:17:19,600 --> 00:17:25,200 更添居高临下俯视徒步者的优越感。 as they could enjoy the pleasure of looking down on mere pedestrians. 224 00:17:25,200 --> 00:17:27,440 走吧小子，继续。 Walk on boy, come on. 225 00:17:34,040 --> 00:17:39,480 我一边约束罗吉，一边向峡谷深处行进。 Trying to keep Rogie on the straight and narrow, I continue up the glen. 226 00:17:39,480 --> 00:17:41,600 （马嘶声） PONY NEIGHS 227 00:17:41,600 --> 00:17:46,720 景致渐变，茂林渐疏，视野愈发开阔。 The scenery gradually changes, and trees give way to more open country. 228 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:51,480 -嗨，莎夏。 -你好。 -幸会。 - Hi, Sasha. - Hi there. - Good to see you. 229 00:17:51,480 --> 00:17:56,520 在这荒野深处，我与骑行向导莎夏·波考克会合， 'In this wild and remote location, I meet up with trekking guide, Sasha Pocock, 230 00:17:56,520 --> 00:17:59,960 将如高地人数百年来那般并辔同行。 'to ride the glen together, as Highlanders have done for centuries.' 231 00:17:59,960 --> 00:18:02,640 骑马览胜真是绝妙体验！ It's a fantastic way of seeing the countryside Sasha! 232 00:18:02,640 --> 00:18:06,160 是最佳览胜方式。 Oh, the best way of seeing the countryside. 233 00:18:06,160 --> 00:18:11,120 -我们骑的是什么马种？ -都是高地马。 - And what sort of animals are we actually riding today? - These are both Highland ponies. 234 00:18:11,120 --> 00:18:13,920 正是维多利亚游客 And these would have been the horses that Victorian tourists 235 00:18:13,920 --> 00:18:16,520 -日租六先令的品种？ -正是。 - would have hired for their six shillings a day? - Exactly. 236 00:18:16,520 --> 00:18:19,120 旧时它们有哪些用途？ What would they have been used for in the old days, then? 237 00:18:19,120 --> 00:18:22,000 用途十分广泛。 They'd have been used for a variety of things. 238 00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:25,360 -作为代步工具... -嗯？ - They'd have been used as local transport... - Uh-huh? 239 00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:28,640 ..载人去镇上办事， ..to get people to and from, if they went down to the local town, 240 00:18:28,640 --> 00:18:31,880 -可能每年就一两次。 -还能拉车。 - you know, maybe once or twice a year. - Right. - They'd have pulled a cart. 241 00:18:31,880 --> 00:18:34,600 也承担各类农活， They'd have also used them for a lot of their own farm work, 242 00:18:34,600 --> 00:18:40,200 -耕地、拖柴火... -明白。 -..运泥炭生火。 - ploughing, dragging firewood... - Right. - ..taking the peats in for burning on the fire. 243 00:18:40,200 --> 00:18:43,040 -全能型马匹？ -非常全能。 - So the all-round horse? - All-round, very, very much, yeah. 244 00:18:46,480 --> 00:18:49,840 作为高地原生马种，它们必须吃苦耐劳。 'Native to the Highlands, these creatures needed to be hardy. 245 00:18:51,160 --> 00:18:55,120 厚实皮毛抵御严寒， 'They have thick coats to protect them from the harsh weather, 246 00:18:55,120 --> 00:18:59,960 天生稳健可涉沼泽越碎石。 'and a natural sure-footedness to carry them over bog and scree. 247 00:18:59,960 --> 00:19:05,960 最初在小农场耕作或驮运重物， 'They were first put to work on crofts, working the land or carrying heavy loads. 248 00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:11,960 还参与走私威士忌甚至征战—— 'They had other uses, too - sometimes they smuggled whisky, or went to war. 249 00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:17,360 传说罗伯特·布鲁斯国王就是骑着高地马迎战英格兰军队。 'King Robert The Bruce is said to have faced the English astride a Highland pony. 250 00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:23,680 后来这些健驮载贵族进山狩猎， 'Later, these hardy beasts carried the gentry into the hills to hunt, 251 00:19:23,680 --> 00:19:26,440 并运回猎获的鹿只。 'and bring back the deer they'd bagged. 252 00:19:29,120 --> 00:19:33,000 最讨喜的是它们温顺的性情， 'One of their most endearing qualities is their good nature, 253 00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:36,840 看来我和罗吉终于培养出默契了。 'and, you know, I think Rogie and I may have finally come to an understanding.' 254 00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:41,920 -关键在于谁主导。 -没错。 - It's about control. Who's in charge. - Yep. 255 00:19:41,920 --> 00:19:45,760 -我才是主导者，罗吉。 -你说了算。 -别忘了这点。 -你是老大。 - I'm in charge, Rogie. - You're in charge. - Don't you forget it. - You're the boss. 256 00:19:45,760 --> 00:19:47,400 （马嘶声） PONY NEIGHS 257 00:19:47,400 --> 00:19:53,080 能骑乘如此适应苏格兰荒野的生灵实属幸事。 'But it's a real treat to ride a creature so well-suited to the wilds of Scotland. 258 00:19:53,080 --> 00:19:59,360 如今越来越多参与马背旅行的人也乐在其中。 'It's also a pleasure that's enjoyed by increasing numbers of folk who go pony trekking.' 259 00:19:59,360 --> 00:20:04,320 -你经营马背旅行业务？ -主要客群是？ - Now, you run a trekking business? - Yes. - What kind of people are interested in that? 260 00:20:04,320 --> 00:20:09,600 多是未曾体验荒野的城市居民， You get mainly people who don't get to experience this sort of wilderness, 261 00:20:09,600 --> 00:20:15,440 渴望暂时逃离都市投入荒野怀抱。 so it's people from the cities and towns who really want to escape into the wilderness for a few days. 262 00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:19,320 -这才是真正的荒野吧？ -绝对原始。 - This really is wilderness, isn't it? - Yes, oh, there's nothing. 263 00:20:19,320 --> 00:20:23,280 -手机都没信号。 -完全与世隔绝。 - No mobile phones. - No reception, no. 264 00:20:23,280 --> 00:20:26,560 -简直是...天堂！ -就是天堂。 - It's like... heaven! - It is heaven. 265 00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:38,320 在莎夏和忠实的罗吉帮助下，我深入阿弗里克峡谷。 'Thanks to Sasha and my faithful steed, Rogie, I've made real progress up Glen Affric. 266 00:20:38,320 --> 00:20:42,840 现在该道别继续徒步旅程了。 'But now it's time to say farewell and continue my journey on foot.' 267 00:20:42,840 --> 00:20:44,920 -多谢。再会！ -非常感谢！ - Thanks. Cheers! - Thank you very much! 268 00:20:49,280 --> 00:20:52,680 我走的这条是古老驿道， The track I'm following is an ancient right of way. 269 00:20:52,680 --> 00:20:57,680 数百年来既是牲畜道也是灵柩路—— For centuries it was used as a drove road, and as a coffin road, 270 00:20:57,680 --> 00:21:03,160 送葬者经此抬棺前往远方墓地， so-called because mourners and pallbearers used it to carry their dead 271 00:21:03,160 --> 00:21:06,160 故得此名。 to distant burial grounds. 272 00:21:06,160 --> 00:21:11,360 但昔日峡谷居民为给牧羊场让路， But in the past, the people who lived in the glen were forced off the land 273 00:21:11,360 --> 00:21:14,960 后又为鹿苑迁离故土。 to make way for sheep, and then later, for deer. 274 00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:20,200 事实上，这片土地并非总是欢迎人类。 The fact is, people have not always been made to feel welcome in these parts. 275 00:21:20,200 --> 00:21:25,760 维多利亚时代，纵是登山这般简单乐趣， In Victorian times, simple pleasures like tramping the hills 276 00:21:25,760 --> 00:21:28,320 也充满重重阻碍。 fraught with all kinds of difficulties. 277 00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:32,320 我指的不只是沼泽溪流等自然障碍。 I don't just mean boggy ground or having to ford a stream. 278 00:21:32,320 --> 00:21:36,360 那时若非权贵， Now, back then, access to a wilderness area like this 279 00:21:36,360 --> 00:21:39,440 进入此类荒野区域实非易事。 was something of an issue for all but the very wealthy. 280 00:21:44,320 --> 00:21:47,920 -辛普森先生，向您脱帽致敬。 -你好保罗。 - Mr Simpson, Sir, I doff my cap. - Hello, Paul. 281 00:21:47,920 --> 00:21:53,000 历史学家埃里克·辛普森年轻时便行走于此。 'Historian Eric Simpson has walked these hills since he was a young man. 282 00:21:53,000 --> 00:22:00,000 他登遍所有门罗峰，如今年逾八旬仍在复攀。 'He's climbed all the Munros, and now in his 80s, he's tackling some for a second time. 283 00:22:00,000 --> 00:22:02,880 埃里克充分行使了漫游权， 'Eric has fully exercised his right to roam, 284 00:22:02,880 --> 00:22:08,240 但曾有段时期富人竭力阻止平民进入。 'but there was a time when the rich tried to keep the riffraff off this land.' 285 00:22:10,800 --> 00:22:16,680 埃里克，维多利亚时代这里整片都是私人庄园？ Now, Eric, back in Victorian times, this was just one vast estate was it not? 286 00:22:16,680 --> 00:22:20,840 确实。当时许多苏格兰地主需资金周转， Indeed, yeah. A lot of the Scottish landowners needed extra money, and they were quite willing, 287 00:22:20,840 --> 00:22:25,520 要么变卖地产，要么出租给南方 either had to sell their estates or to lease them to wealthy businessmen 288 00:22:25,520 --> 00:22:27,600 富商和实业家。 and industrialists from the south. 289 00:22:27,600 --> 00:22:32,520 他们占据此地是为狩猎权， They'd taken over this area because they had the shooting rights. 290 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:34,680 -嗯。 -不愿让鹿群 - Uh-huh. - And they didn't want the deer 291 00:22:34,680 --> 00:22:38,880 从自己地盘逃窜到邻家领地。 scared off their piece of land onto their neighbour's. 292 00:22:38,880 --> 00:22:43,280 有个叫沃尔特·怀南斯的外来者， And there was one particular incomer called Walter Winans, 293 00:22:43,280 --> 00:22:50,880 作为美国富豪租下包括此处的大片高地， he was a very rich American, and he leased a large part of the Highlands, this area included, 294 00:22:50,880 --> 00:22:57,200 严禁他人进入其"领地"。 and he tried to prevent other people from coming in to what he considered his territory. 295 00:22:57,200 --> 00:23:01,560 他雇佣大量向导和看守 He employed a large number of gillies and keepers 296 00:23:01,560 --> 00:23:05,200 -在各处设岗。 -明白。 - to act as sentries in different places. - Right. 297 00:23:05,200 --> 00:23:08,640 -甚至搭建岗亭。 -当真？ - Some of them even were in sentry boxes. - You're joking? - No, no. 298 00:23:08,640 --> 00:23:14,040 任何偏离规定路线者， And anyone who strayed from the right of way, 299 00:23:14,040 --> 00:23:18,360 都会遭到其打手驱逐。 then his strong-arm men could take action. 300 00:23:18,360 --> 00:23:21,240 这类地主当时是否普遍 Was that quite a common thing in those days, 301 00:23:21,240 --> 00:23:25,040 都如此严防死守自家地盘？ that landowners of his ilk, were they very protective of their property? 302 00:23:25,040 --> 00:23:29,440 所幸当时已有先驱者致力于 Yes, yes. Fortunately you had people who tried to 303 00:23:29,440 --> 00:23:31,880 开放山地通行权， open up access to the hills, 304 00:23:31,880 --> 00:23:36,400 他们审视既有古道现状， that they looked at the existing rights of way 305 00:23:36,400 --> 00:23:38,720 发现权益正遭侵蚀， and saw how the rights were being eroded, 306 00:23:38,720 --> 00:23:44,320 便通过法律手段阻止地主封路。 and they took legal action to prevent landowners from blocking them. 307 00:23:44,320 --> 00:23:47,480 维权者展开系列诉讼， 'Campaigners undertook a series of court battles, 308 00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:51,920 挑战地主拒绝开放领地的合法性。 'challenging the legal right of landowners to refuse access. 309 00:23:51,920 --> 00:23:55,960 1847年取得重大胜利。 'In 1847 they scored a significant victory.' 310 00:23:55,960 --> 00:24:01,880 蒂尔特峡谷事件中，阿索尔公爵曾阻挠爱丁堡大学 Glen Tilt, the Duke of Atholl resisted a party of students from Edinburgh University, 311 00:24:01,880 --> 00:24:07,600 植物学教授带领的采标本学生——天啊！ botany students, led by their Professor, picking up flowers and plants - oh, dear(!) 312 00:24:07,600 --> 00:24:10,360 -多单纯的举动！ -太荒唐了！ - Pretty innocent thing to do! - How terrible(!) 313 00:24:10,360 --> 00:24:17,240 公爵带着随从阻拦，最终引发确立植物学家 And the Duke of Atholl was there with his gillies to prevent them, and this led to a legal case 314 00:24:17,240 --> 00:24:23,400 及民众穿越蒂尔特峡谷权利的里程碑案件。 which asserted the right of botanists and people like us to go through Glen Tilt. 315 00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:27,320 所以如今我们有权行走此道？ So now we do have the right to walk along this track? 316 00:24:27,320 --> 00:24:31,680 早期徒步者与我们一样， Yes, they've... Early walkers, like us today, 317 00:24:31,680 --> 00:24:33,960 -视之为共同遗产。 -正是。 - regard it as part of our heritage. - Exactly. 318 00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:36,320 这方山水值得我们 And it's a landscape that we want to see, 319 00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:39,800 引荐给更多人共享。 and want to encourage people to come into and enjoy. 320 00:24:39,800 --> 00:24:43,720 此等壮美理应全民共赏。 Everyone should have this experience because it is just so glorious. 321 00:24:43,720 --> 00:24:50,000 随着越来越多人行使新获的荒野探索权， 'As more and more people exercised their newly-won rights to explore the remote wilderness, 322 00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:54,320 夜间住宿需求也随之增长。 'many also sought a bed to rest their weary bones for the night. 323 00:24:54,320 --> 00:24:56,600 在这远离尘嚣之地， 'And even here, miles from anywhere, 324 00:24:56,600 --> 00:25:02,360 阿弗里克峡谷青年旅舍的招牌令人倍感亲切。 'we are greeted by the welcome sight of the Glen Affric Youth Hostel.' 325 00:25:02,360 --> 00:25:04,920 我们身处荒原腹地， We're in the middle of nowhere, 326 00:25:04,920 --> 00:25:07,640 四周根本没有正规道路， there are no proper roads anywhere around, 327 00:25:07,640 --> 00:25:12,920 这里堪称全英最偏远青年旅舍。 and that place claims to be the most remote Youth Hostel in the whole of the UK. 328 00:25:12,920 --> 00:25:14,440 希望别闹鬼才好！ I hope it's not haunted! 329 00:25:23,320 --> 00:25:26,400 翌日清晨神清气爽， 'The next morning, refreshed and rejuvenated, 330 00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:30,600 我继续西行向海岸进发。 'I'm ready to continue my journey westward to the coast. 331 00:25:32,280 --> 00:25:37,080 漫游权激励更多人走进山野， 'The right to roam encouraged more people to head out into the hills, 332 00:25:37,080 --> 00:25:39,520 掀起新风尚—— 'and it began a new craze, 333 00:25:39,520 --> 00:25:43,280 不仅强身健体， 'which was seen as not only good for the body, 334 00:25:43,280 --> 00:25:45,680 更能净化心灵。 'but also good for the soul.' 335 00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:50,640 整个19世纪，教会推动的运动 Throughout the 19th century, there was a growing, church-inspired movement 336 00:25:50,640 --> 00:25:56,000 鼓励年轻人起身行走，告别跪拜。 to get the young up and off their knees and out tramping the hills. 337 00:26:00,120 --> 00:26:05,560 徒步风行一时，苏格兰漫游者联盟应运而生。 'Rambling was all the rage, and the Scottish Ramblers Alliance was formed. 338 00:26:06,920 --> 00:26:11,080 乡野行走绝非简单消遣—— 'But walking in the countryside was no mere country pursuit - 339 00:26:11,080 --> 00:26:15,080 更具教化、社交与道德意义。 'it was to be educative, social and highly moral. 340 00:26:16,600 --> 00:26:18,320 男女混行遭人诟病。 'Mixed walking was frowned upon. 341 00:26:19,400 --> 00:26:23,560 与异性并肩同行 'Falling in step with a member of the opposite sex 342 00:26:23,560 --> 00:26:27,640 恐令纯洁的漫游者误入歧途！ 'might lead innocent ramblers to stray from the path of righteousness! 343 00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:33,720 20世纪初徒步真正蔚然成风， 'But it was in the early 20th century that walking really took off, 344 00:26:33,720 --> 00:26:38,480 无论阶级性别， 'and everyone, regardless of class or gender, 345 00:26:38,480 --> 00:26:42,000 皆可享受健行乐趣。 'could enjoy the benefits of a right good yomp.' 346 00:26:42,000 --> 00:26:45,400 为提振士气凝聚精神， To boost morale and help focus the mind, 347 00:26:45,400 --> 00:26:52,080 徒步俱乐部倡导用健康歌声保持基督徒步调一致， clubs encouraged wholesome, merry singing to keep good Christian souls in step, 348 00:26:52,080 --> 00:26:57,280 比如这首《徒步者之歌》。 and this is one of them entitled The Foot Traveller's Song. 349 00:26:57,280 --> 00:27:00,880 -（朗诵） -我欣然徒步向前。哈！ - HE RECITES: - On foot I gaily make my way. Hurrah! 350 00:27:00,880 --> 00:27:04,720 苍山如黛草色鲜。哈！ Where mountains bare And meadows gay. Hurrah! 351 00:27:04,720 --> 00:27:08,960 道不同者请自便， But he who is not of my mind Another travelling mate may find 352 00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:13,000 莫与我同行。哈！ For he may not go with me. Hurrah! 353 00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:15,440 特拉拉，啦啦啦！ Tra-la, la-la, la-la! 354 00:27:15,440 --> 00:27:18,680 调子可能不准，但意境到位。 I don't think that's quite the right tune, but you get the idea. 355 00:27:21,560 --> 00:27:25,160 欢快旅歌振奋精神后， 'My spirits raised by the jolly traveller's song, 356 00:27:25,160 --> 00:27:28,680 我向终点杜伊赫湖岸 I'm making the final push to journey's end, 357 00:27:28,680 --> 00:27:30,960 做最后冲刺， heading for the shores of Loch Duich 358 00:27:30,960 --> 00:27:33,960 那里矗立着苏格兰旅游标志。 and an icon of Scottish tourism. 359 00:27:36,320 --> 00:27:39,040 艾琳多南城堡巍然屹立。 'This is Eilean Donan castle. 360 00:27:39,040 --> 00:27:44,720 其形象印遍全球数百万曲奇盒。 'It's an image that's adorned millions of shortbread tins the world over. 361 00:27:44,720 --> 00:27:47,360 13世纪始建的古堡， 'There's been a castle here since the 13th century, 362 00:27:47,360 --> 00:27:54,360 1715年詹姆斯党起义失败后彻底被毁。 'but it was completely destroyed following the failed Jacobite rising of 1715. 363 00:27:54,360 --> 00:27:57,200 现存建筑实为1930年代重建。 'What stands here today was actually built in the 1930s. 364 00:27:57,200 --> 00:27:59,720 但世人仍视之为 'But nonetheless, many people see it 365 00:27:59,720 --> 00:28:03,560 苏格兰城堡典范， 'as the quintessential Scottish castle, 366 00:28:03,560 --> 00:28:06,600 星光熠熠。 'and it does have star quality. 367 00:28:06,600 --> 00:28:10,720 多部好莱坞电影在此取景， 'Eilean Donan has been the setting for several Hollywood movies, 368 00:28:10,720 --> 00:28:17,520 使其成为苏格兰最知名旅游胜地之一。 'which has made it into one of the most recognised and visited tourist attractions in Scotland.' 369 00:28:17,520 --> 00:28:22,920 尽管声名显赫又与好莱坞结缘， I have to say that despite its celebrity status and Hollywood associations, 370 00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:26,360 今日我已无力探访艾琳多南。 I feel too tired to visit Eilean Donan today. 371 00:28:26,360 --> 00:28:29,720 或许荒野跋涉过久， I think maybe I've been in the wilds a bit too long, 372 00:28:29,720 --> 00:28:33,160 实在难以面对如织游人。 and to be honest, I don't think I could face those crowds. 373 00:28:33,160 --> 00:28:36,760 横跨苏格兰的旅程后， And anyway, after my journey from coast to coast, 374 00:28:36,760 --> 00:28:42,760 我只想静坐赏景， I've only got the energy to sit here, admire the view, 375 00:28:42,760 --> 00:28:45,800 顺便洗洗袜子！ and maybe wash my socks! 376 00:28:51,800 --> 00:28:55,040 敬请期待下期苏格兰壮游， Join me on my next Grand Tour of Scotland, 377 00:28:55,040 --> 00:28:57,080 我将为您寻觅特色住所。 when I'll be looking for a bed for the night. 378 00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:08,560 字幕由红蜂传媒制作 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd