1 00:00:02,040 --> 00:00:06,160 如今的游客们北上前往雄伟崎岖的苏格兰高地时， Today's tourists, heading north to the rugged grandeur of the Highlands, 2 00:00:06,160 --> 00:00:10,280 常常会忽略苏格兰西南部。 sometimes overlook the south-west of Scotland. 3 00:00:10,280 --> 00:00:13,520 这里的风景有着截然不同的气质， Here the landscape has a very different character 4 00:00:13,520 --> 00:00:16,600 广袤天空、绵延山丘 and the big skies, rolling hills 5 00:00:16,600 --> 00:00:21,720 与壮丽海岸线曾令早期旅行者赞叹不已。 and spectacular coastline were much admired by early travellers. 6 00:00:22,800 --> 00:00:24,840 两百年前， Two hundred years ago, 7 00:00:24,840 --> 00:00:28,160 这里被视为充满挑战的险峻之地， this was considered to be a challenging landscape 8 00:00:28,160 --> 00:00:32,480 是纯粹的男性世界，充斥着需要勇者直面 and very much a man's world, full of unseen perils 9 00:00:32,480 --> 00:00:38,040 的未知危险，绝非女性该来的地方。 to be faced down by the brave and definitely not a place for women. 10 00:00:38,040 --> 00:00:40,640 至少——男人们是这么想的！ At least, that's what men thought! 11 00:00:41,600 --> 00:00:44,120 但女士们还是来了。 But the ladies came anyway. 12 00:00:45,200 --> 00:00:49,280 她们和男性同胞一样渴望探索苏格兰的大道小径， They were just as eager to explore the highways and byways of Scotland 13 00:00:49,280 --> 00:00:54,240 很快便出现了迎合女性审美与情感的旅游指南， as their men-folk and soon tourist guidebooks began to appear, 14 00:00:54,240 --> 00:00:57,080 专为女性品味与感受而编写。 catering for feminine tastes and sensibilities. 15 00:00:58,320 --> 00:01:00,440 《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》 Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland 16 00:01:00,440 --> 00:01:03,960 是最早面向女性读者的指南之一。 was one of the first to address a female readership. 17 00:01:03,960 --> 00:01:08,040 由查尔斯·布莱克与亚当·布莱克于1846年出版后， Published in 1846 by Charles and Adam Black, 18 00:01:08,040 --> 00:01:11,920 它成为维多利亚时代游客的圣经。 it became the Victorian tourists' bible. 19 00:01:11,920 --> 00:01:15,680 正是这本精彩指南激发了我父母 A copy of this fascinating guide inspired my parents 20 00:01:15,680 --> 00:01:17,320 探索苏格兰的念头。 to explore Scotland. 21 00:01:17,320 --> 00:01:20,520 四十年后，我重走着 Four decades on, I'm retracing some of the routes 22 00:01:20,520 --> 00:01:22,440 当年全家走过的路线。 we followed as a family. 23 00:01:22,440 --> 00:01:24,760 向西南行进途中， Heading to the south-west, 24 00:01:24,760 --> 00:01:27,440 这是一段充满女性气质的旅程。 I'm on a journey with a decidedly feminine touch. 25 00:01:40,000 --> 00:01:43,080 从边境村庄格雷特纳格林出发， Starting at the border village of Gretna Green, 26 00:01:43,080 --> 00:01:47,000 我西行前往邓弗里斯，绕道利德希尔斯， I'm heading west to Dumfries, taking a detour to Leadhills, 27 00:01:47,000 --> 00:01:50,480 沿索尔威海岸前行，最终抵达 travelling to the Solway coast before finishing up 28 00:01:50,480 --> 00:01:53,480 与爱尔兰隔海相望的波特帕特里克。 within sight of Ireland at Portpatrick. 29 00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:58,480 这里是格雷特纳格林， This is Gretna Green, 30 00:01:58,480 --> 00:02:02,040 距离英格兰边境仅数米之遥。 just a few metres from the English border. 31 00:02:02,040 --> 00:02:04,760 据《布莱克指南》记载，此地 According to Black's, Gretna Green is, 32 00:02:04,760 --> 00:02:08,040 "因秘密婚姻而久负盛名的小村落"。 "A hamlet long-famous for clandestine marriages." 33 00:02:09,320 --> 00:02:13,240 或许可以说，最早来苏格兰的女性游客中 I suppose you could argue that among the first female tourists 34 00:02:13,240 --> 00:02:16,240 有不少是私奔越境而来的 to come to Scotland were young brides 35 00:02:16,240 --> 00:02:18,720 年轻新娘。 who had eloped across the border. 36 00:02:18,720 --> 00:02:21,160 她们选择此地是因为苏格兰法律规定， Now they came because under Scots law, 37 00:02:21,160 --> 00:02:24,040 年满16岁者无需父母同意即可结婚， it was possible to get married at the age of 16 38 00:02:24,040 --> 00:02:28,720 而作为苏格兰第一座边境村庄， without your parents' consent and being the first village in Scotland, 39 00:02:28,720 --> 00:02:34,600 格雷特纳格林迅速成为私奔恋人们的避风港。 Gretna Green quickly became a haven for young lovers on the run. 40 00:02:36,240 --> 00:02:41,920 他们奔赴的目的地正是这里——如今举世闻名的铁匠铺， And this is where they came - the now world-famous blacksmiths' workshop 41 00:02:41,920 --> 00:02:46,880 在这看似朴素、初看毫不浪漫的 and it was in these plain, and at first glance decidedly unromantic, 42 00:02:46,880 --> 00:02:50,920 环境中，曾锻造出无数婚姻的纽带。 surroundings that the bonds of matrimony were once forged. 43 00:02:52,160 --> 00:02:55,720 在苏格兰，新人无需神父主持婚礼， In Scotland, lovers didn't need a priest to marry them 44 00:02:55,720 --> 00:02:58,480 因为法律承认任何由 because the law recognised any marriage made by 45 00:02:58,480 --> 00:03:02,480 "社区德高望重成员"见证的婚姻，而传统上， "A respectable member of the community," and traditionally, 46 00:03:02,480 --> 00:03:06,000 这个人就是铁匠。在格雷特纳格林， this was the blacksmith and here at Gretna Green, 47 00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:09,120 被称作"铁砧神父"的匠人们在此地 anvil priests, as they were called, made a fortune 48 00:03:09,120 --> 00:03:12,320 通过主持速成婚礼赚得盆满钵满。 forging quickie weddings, right here. 49 00:03:15,920 --> 00:03:19,880 首位服务英格兰爱情游客的铁砧神父 The first anvil priest to cater for love tourists from England 50 00:03:19,880 --> 00:03:24,360 是约瑟夫·佩斯利，他靠锤击铁砧 was Joseph Paisley, who made a fortune marrying girl brides 51 00:03:24,360 --> 00:03:26,560 为少女主婚积累了大量财富。 by striking a hammer on his anvil. 52 00:03:27,760 --> 00:03:30,520 但佩斯利未能驾驭成功， But Paisley didn't cope well with success 53 00:03:30,520 --> 00:03:34,880 似乎放纵过度。晚年他被描述为： and seems to have over-indulged. In later life he was described as, 54 00:03:34,880 --> 00:03:39,520 "极度无知且粗俗不堪。一团重逾25英石（约159公斤）的 "Grossly ignorant and insufferably coarse. An overgrown mass of fat, 55 00:03:39,520 --> 00:03:43,000 "臃肿肥肉，饮酒量远超 "weighing at least 25 stone, who drank a good deal more 56 00:03:43,000 --> 00:03:45,360 "解渴所需"。 "than was necessary to his thirst". 57 00:03:47,640 --> 00:03:52,080 铁砧神父的传统一直延续至1940年代， The tradition of the anvil priest continued up until the 1940s 58 00:03:52,080 --> 00:03:57,120 直到法律变更迫使他们挂锤歇业。 when a change in the law forced them to hang up their hammers. 59 00:03:57,120 --> 00:04:00,120 但恋人们仍源源不断来此， But lovers continued to make their way here 60 00:04:00,120 --> 00:04:03,680 格雷特纳格林至今仍是婚礼胜地。 and Gretna Green is still a big place for weddings. 61 00:04:03,680 --> 00:04:07,240 令人惊叹的是，全苏格兰八分之一的婚礼 Amazingly, one in eight of all Scottish weddings 62 00:04:07,240 --> 00:04:10,000 都在此村举行。 take place in the village. 63 00:04:10,000 --> 00:04:12,320 为何选择格雷特纳格林？为什么来苏格兰？ Why did you choose Gretna Green, why come to Scotland? 64 00:04:12,320 --> 00:04:14,160 -因为我们私奔了！ -你们私奔？ - Because we've run away! - You ran away? 65 00:04:14,160 --> 00:04:15,840 认真的！没人知道！ Seriously, yeah! No-one knows! 66 00:04:15,840 --> 00:04:17,160 -没人知道？ -对！ - No-one knows? - No! 67 00:04:17,160 --> 00:04:18,680 这是最著名的结婚圣地！ It's the famous place to come! 68 00:04:18,680 --> 00:04:21,360 我们想要专属于两人的安静仪式， We wanted a quiet ceremony just for us 69 00:04:21,360 --> 00:04:23,920 也想来个传统又特别的地方。 and we wanted to go somewhere that was traditional 70 00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:25,960 显然这里很特别。 and obviously special. 71 00:04:27,480 --> 00:04:30,200 在五彩纸屑的纷飞中离开格雷特纳格林， Leaving Gretna Green in a blizzard of confetti, 72 00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:32,560 我乘着符合时代特色的交通工具 I'm travelling further across the border 73 00:04:32,560 --> 00:04:35,000 继续深入边境地区。 in a suitably period conveyance. 74 00:04:36,480 --> 00:04:39,160 这种深受女士青睐的出行方式—— Much favoured by ladies as a way of getting about, 75 00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:43,200 轻便马车让人想起早期旅游岁月， the pony and trap recalls the days of early tourism, 76 00:04:43,200 --> 00:04:48,400 那时女性几乎从不单独旅行。 and a time when females seldom, if ever, travelled alone. 77 00:04:48,400 --> 00:04:52,720 这充分说明了当时女性的社会地位—— It says everything about the social position of women in those days, 78 00:04:52,720 --> 00:04:55,320 她们需要监护人陪同。 that they needed to be chaperoned. 79 00:04:55,320 --> 00:04:59,320 瞧，人们认为女性太过柔弱无法独立应对， You see, the fair sex were considered to be too weak to cope by themselves 80 00:04:59,320 --> 00:05:03,400 需要男性骑士精神的援手。 and needed a man's chivalrous helping hand. 81 00:05:05,840 --> 00:05:10,080 为探究女性为何被视为无能之辈 To discover why women were considered to be so useless 82 00:05:10,080 --> 00:05:14,160 及其反抗历程，我让作家兼历史学家 and how they fought back, I'm giving a lift to writer and historian, 83 00:05:14,160 --> 00:05:17,160 贝蒂·哈格隆德搭车同行，前往邓弗里斯。 Betty Hagglund, on the road to Dumfries. 84 00:05:18,560 --> 00:05:20,600 贝蒂，在18-19世纪时， Betty, back in the 18th and 19th centuries, 85 00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:23,680 女性并不被鼓励成为冒险旅行者吧？ women weren't exactly encouraged to be adventurous travellers. 86 00:05:23,680 --> 00:05:26,640 确实如此。当时人们担心某些女性 I think that's true, I think there were fears that for some women 87 00:05:26,640 --> 00:05:29,120 会因壮丽景色而承受不住， the sublimity of the landscape would be too much, 88 00:05:29,120 --> 00:05:32,800 被震慑甚至吓坏。 that they would be overwhelmed by it, that they would be frightened by it. 89 00:05:32,800 --> 00:05:34,200 然后歇斯底里晕倒？ And get the vapours and faint? 90 00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:38,400 是的。她们被要求顺从丈夫。 Yes. They were expected to defer to their husbands. 91 00:05:38,400 --> 00:05:42,000 她们没有独立经济来源。许多女性 They, of course, had no independent money. Many women, of course, as well 92 00:05:42,000 --> 00:05:44,520 在婚姻生活中几乎持续处于 were pregnant almost constantly 93 00:05:44,520 --> 00:05:46,800 怀孕状态。 throughout their married lives. 94 00:05:46,800 --> 00:05:48,560 女性经历18-20次怀孕 It was not uncommon for women 95 00:05:48,560 --> 00:05:51,040 并不罕见。 to have 18 to 20 pregnancies. 96 00:05:51,040 --> 00:05:53,560 这极大限制了出行可能。 That limits how much you can travel. 97 00:05:55,840 --> 00:05:58,960 但仍有女性挣脱了家庭束缚。 But some women did escape the domestic realm. 98 00:05:58,960 --> 00:06:03,760 1803年，诗人威廉·华兹华斯的妹妹多萝西·华兹华斯 In 1803, Dorothy Wordsworth, sister of the poet William, 99 00:06:03,760 --> 00:06:06,640 开启了她著名的苏格兰之旅。 embarked on a celebrated tour of Scotland. 100 00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:11,440 多萝西最初与兄长及 Dorothy Wordsworth was travelling initially with her brother 101 00:06:11,440 --> 00:06:13,960 塞缪尔·柯勒律治同行，后者是 and with Samuel Coleridge who was, of course, 102 00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:16,840 华兹华斯兄妹的挚友。 a great friend of Dorothy and William Wordsworth. 103 00:06:16,840 --> 00:06:19,680 与两位诗人同游对多萝西有何影响？ Now how did that work out for Dorothy, travelling with two poets? 104 00:06:19,680 --> 00:06:22,720 我觉得若不是多萝西在场，这两位诗人可能 My feeling is that the two poets probably wouldn't have got past 105 00:06:22,720 --> 00:06:26,160 -连格雷特纳格林都走不到 -确实 - Gretna Green if Dorothy hadn't been with them. - Right. 106 00:06:26,160 --> 00:06:27,440 她才是务实的人。 She was the practical one. 107 00:06:31,920 --> 00:06:36,520 能干的多萝西带领诗人开启文学朝圣之旅， The capable Dorothy led the poets on a literary pilgrimage 108 00:06:36,520 --> 00:06:41,120 穿越西南部寻找另一位诗人 through the south-west, searching for the legacy of another poet, 109 00:06:41,120 --> 00:06:42,200 罗伯特·彭斯的遗踪。 Robert Burns. 110 00:06:45,440 --> 00:06:49,200 这里是邓弗里斯，苏格兰民族诗人 This is Dumfries, the town where Scotland's national Bard 111 00:06:49,200 --> 00:06:51,560 生前最后三年的居所。 lived for three years until his death. 112 00:06:53,880 --> 00:06:57,880 你可以把彭斯想象成早期猫王， You can imagine Burns as a sort of early Elvis Presley 113 00:06:57,880 --> 00:07:02,440 正如猫王故居雅园成为圣地， and just as Presley's home, Graceland, became hallowed ground, 114 00:07:02,440 --> 00:07:05,880 罗伯特·彭斯朴素的故居 so too did the humble home of Robert Burns 115 00:07:05,880 --> 00:07:09,920 自1796年他在此逝世后也成为圣地。 when he died here in Dumfries in 1796. 116 00:07:13,480 --> 00:07:17,400 与其他彭斯迷一样，华兹华斯兄妹来此希望能 The Wordsworths, like other fans of the Bard, came here in the hope 117 00:07:17,400 --> 00:07:21,520 遇见诗人的遗孀或一睹其子女风采。 of finding Burns' widow at home, or perhaps glimpsing the children. 118 00:07:23,080 --> 00:07:26,680 但那天琼·阿莫尔并不在家。 But Jean Armour wasn't in that day. 119 00:07:26,680 --> 00:07:30,280 于是华兹华斯兄妹在诗人墓前致敬。 Instead, the Wordsworths paid their respects at the poet's grave. 120 00:07:30,280 --> 00:07:36,560 但对伟人的敬意有时会以出人意料的方式展现。 But reverence for greatness can sometimes show itself in unexpected ways. 121 00:07:36,560 --> 00:07:42,280 多萝西到访三十年后，彭斯墓遭人闯入。 Three decades after Dorothy's visit, Burns' grave was broken into. 122 00:07:42,280 --> 00:07:47,160 如今看来难以置信，但在1834年， It seems almost unimaginable to us now, but in 1834, 123 00:07:47,160 --> 00:07:51,520 四名镇上体面人——包括报社编辑和一名外科医生—— under cover of darkness, four respectable men of the town, 124 00:07:51,520 --> 00:07:55,320 趁夜色掘开彭斯墓 including the newspaper editor and a surgeon, 125 00:07:55,320 --> 00:07:59,240 取走了他的头骨。 broke into Burns' tomb and removed his skull. 126 00:08:01,840 --> 00:08:05,000 这看似骇人听闻的亵渎行为 But this seemingly macabre act of desecration 127 00:08:05,000 --> 00:08:11,640 实则动机崇高——为了推进对人类天才的认知。 was done with the highest motives - to further our understanding of human genius. 128 00:08:11,640 --> 00:08:16,480 梅根·科耶尔将为我讲述彭斯与颅相学的关联， Megan Coyer tells me about the link between Burns and phrenology, 129 00:08:16,480 --> 00:08:20,960 这门早期科学试图通过测量颅骨轮廓 an early science that tried to map the organs of the intellect 130 00:08:20,960 --> 00:08:23,920 来定位智力器官的位置。 by measuring the contours of the skull. 131 00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:26,960 这本《颅相学入门》 Well, this is called "An Introduction To Phrenology" 132 00:08:26,960 --> 00:08:28,920 扉页插图对阐释这门科学 and the front plate is actually really useful 133 00:08:28,920 --> 00:08:30,680 非常实用 for illustrating the science 134 00:08:30,680 --> 00:08:33,200 可以看到颅骨图示 and there you can see there is the skull here 135 00:08:33,200 --> 00:08:35,320 上面标注着数字编号的 and there is a map with little numbers on it 136 00:08:35,320 --> 00:08:38,360 每个数字对应特定脑功能分区 and each of the numbers correspond to an individual organ. 137 00:08:38,360 --> 00:08:40,680 你认为那晚来此的人 Do you think the men who came here that night 138 00:08:40,680 --> 00:08:44,840 是想提升彭斯的声誉吗？ were trying to further Burns' reputation, 139 00:08:44,840 --> 00:08:47,440 将他捧上神坛并宣称： to somehow bolster it and put him on a pedestal 140 00:08:47,440 --> 00:08:49,080 "看这位伟人—— and say, "Here is this man 141 00:08:49,080 --> 00:08:51,600 我们发现了其诗才的根源"？ "and we've discovered the seat of his poetic genius?" 142 00:08:51,600 --> 00:08:54,760 人们对彭斯兴趣浓厚 There was a great deal of interest in Burns 143 00:08:54,760 --> 00:08:58,040 因他是超越阶级的天才 because of the fact that he is a class-transcendent genius, 144 00:08:58,040 --> 00:09:02,600 这位"天授耕农"。颅相学家强烈主张 the "heaven-taught ploughman." The phrenologists were very much 145 00:09:02,600 --> 00:09:05,640 天赋重于后天培养 on the side of nature over nurture 146 00:09:05,640 --> 00:09:10,800 若能通过解读彭斯大脑证明 and if we could show by reading Burns' brain 147 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:13,000 其诗才与生俱来 that he was naturally poetic, 148 00:09:13,000 --> 00:09:15,840 将是颅相学的重大胜利 that would be a big triumph for phrenology. 149 00:09:15,840 --> 00:09:19,120 他们特别关注其异常发达的仁慈区 One organ that they particularly fixated on was his organ of benevolence, 150 00:09:19,120 --> 00:09:22,680 认为《致小鼠》一诗 which was particularly large, and the poem To A Mouse 151 00:09:22,680 --> 00:09:26,280 完美体现了这一特质 was one that they said illustrated that very nicely. 152 00:09:26,280 --> 00:09:28,760 令他们惊讶的是 One that they were quite surprised about 153 00:09:28,760 --> 00:09:31,760 其情欲区非常小 was that he had a very small organ of amativeness. 154 00:09:31,760 --> 00:09:33,600 -什么区？ -情欲区 - Of what? - Amativeness. 155 00:09:33,600 --> 00:09:36,600 -情欲？ -主管性激情的分区 - Amativeness? - Amativeness. It's the organ of sexual passion. 156 00:09:36,600 --> 00:09:37,920 这与我听闻不符 Well, that's not what I heard, 157 00:09:37,920 --> 00:09:40,320 传说他那方面天赋异禀！ I thought he was quite well-endowed in that department! 158 00:09:40,320 --> 00:09:42,280 根据传记与诗作记载 Well, according to his biography and poetry, 159 00:09:42,280 --> 00:09:45,600 理应情欲区发达 one would think that he would have a large organ of amativeness 160 00:09:45,600 --> 00:09:49,640 但颅相学家有个取巧之处—— but the phrenologists, and this is one of the things that they're a little bit crafty with, 161 00:09:49,640 --> 00:09:52,440 若某分区偏小与性格不符 if one organ was a bit small and didn't match up with the character, 162 00:09:52,440 --> 00:09:55,120 就用其他分区弥补 they could find another one that would counter-balance it, 163 00:09:55,120 --> 00:09:57,720 比如这次他们选择了依附区 in this case they went to adhesiveness. 164 00:09:57,720 --> 00:10:00,120 -这能补偿？ -确实可以 - Right, does that compensate? - Yes, that compensated. 165 00:10:00,120 --> 00:10:02,800 -看来... -弥补情欲区不足！ - It's nice to know... - For the small amativeness! 166 00:10:02,800 --> 00:10:05,760 看来尺寸并非总是关键！ It's nice to know that size doesn't always matter, I suppose! 167 00:10:07,680 --> 00:10:10,200 测量结束后 After they had finished taking their measurements, 168 00:10:10,200 --> 00:10:14,480 这群文人取了彭斯头骨石膏模型 the literary gents took a plaster cast of Burns' skull, 169 00:10:14,480 --> 00:10:18,160 全为佐证这门高度存疑的科学 all to back up the claims of a highly dubious science, 170 00:10:18,160 --> 00:10:22,240 若诗意天赋无法轻易在头颅中找到 but if poetic genius can't be found so easily in the head, 171 00:10:22,240 --> 00:10:25,200 或许终究存于心灵 then perhaps it's in the heart after all, 172 00:10:25,200 --> 00:10:28,880 这正是我下一段旅程要探寻的 which is what I'm going to discover on the next leg of my journey. 173 00:10:30,760 --> 00:10:34,360 邓弗里斯以南数英里处有座风景如画的废墟 Just a few miles south of Dumfries is a picturesque ruin 174 00:10:34,360 --> 00:10:39,640 拥有迷人的女性化名称与氛围 with a delightfully feminine name, and feminine atmosphere. 175 00:10:43,840 --> 00:10:50,040 甜心修道院是女性永恒之爱的石质见证 Sweetheart Abbey is a testament in stone to a woman's enduring love. 176 00:10:50,040 --> 00:10:54,800 《布莱克指南》描绘了场景：德沃吉拉 Black's Guide Book sets the scene, describing how Devo Giller, 177 00:10:54,800 --> 00:11:00,680 约翰·巴利奥尔的妻子于1275年修建此修道院 the wife of John Balliol, erected the abbey in 1275 as a tribute 178 00:11:00,680 --> 00:11:03,480 以纪念亡夫 to the memory of her husband. 179 00:11:03,480 --> 00:11:07,680 德沃吉拉的故事堪称浪漫传奇 Devo Giller's story is straight out of high romance. 180 00:11:07,680 --> 00:11:11,840 这位讲盖尔语的公主年仅13岁 She was a Gaelic-speaking princess and was just 13 years of age 181 00:11:11,840 --> 00:11:15,560 便嫁给盎格鲁-诺曼骑士约翰·巴利奥尔 when she married the Anglo-Norman knight, John Balliol 182 00:11:15,560 --> 00:11:19,240 丈夫去世后她取出其心脏 and when Balliol died she had his heart removed 183 00:11:19,240 --> 00:11:22,560 置于精美骨灰盒中 and placed in a special, ornate casket 184 00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:26,880 终生随身携带 which she carried around with her for the rest of her life. 185 00:11:29,040 --> 00:11:31,600 她投身慈善事业 Devoting herself to good works, 186 00:11:31,600 --> 00:11:36,000 资助修建这座宏伟修道院 Devo Giller funded the construction of this magnificent abbey 187 00:11:36,000 --> 00:11:39,160 并创立牛津大学著名的巴利奥尔学院 and founded the famous Balliol College in Oxford. 188 00:11:41,360 --> 00:11:44,040 临终之际 When it was time for her to depart this life, 189 00:11:44,040 --> 00:11:49,000 她与亡夫心脏合葬于此 she was buried here with her husband's heart placed over her own 190 00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:53,280 此地因此得名"甜心修道院" and ever since, this place has been known as Sweetheart Abbey. 191 00:11:53,280 --> 00:11:56,360 这类浪漫故事正是 Now this is exactly the sort of romantic story 192 00:11:56,360 --> 00:11:59,680 《布莱克指南》认为适合 that Black's considered to be appropriate fayre 193 00:11:59,680 --> 00:12:01,720 维多利亚时代女性游客的内容 for a Victorian lady tourist. 194 00:12:03,120 --> 00:12:07,040 但对多萝西·华兹华斯这样 But for a more serious-minded and independent lady traveller 195 00:12:07,040 --> 00:12:11,240 思想严肃的独立女性旅行者，兴趣点另有所在 like Dorothy Wordsworth, interest lay elsewhere. 196 00:12:13,840 --> 00:12:18,120 离开甜心修道院，我追随多萝西北上 Leaving Sweetheart Abbey, I'm following Dorothy Wordsworth north 197 00:12:18,120 --> 00:12:22,720 前往自称苏格兰最高村庄的山区 and into the hills to a village that claims to be the highest in Scotland. 198 00:12:27,200 --> 00:12:28,400 万洛克黑德 This is Wanlockhead, 199 00:12:28,400 --> 00:12:32,080 我的《布莱克指南》完全未提及此地 a place not mentioned by my edition of Black's at all. 200 00:12:34,560 --> 00:12:39,320 多数女性游客钟情玫瑰园或庄园宅邸 Most lady tourists were drawn to rose gardens or big country houses 201 00:12:39,320 --> 00:12:43,080 但多萝西不同。她更关注 but not Dorothy Wordsworth. She was more interested 202 00:12:43,080 --> 00:12:46,840 旅途中遇见的普通民众生活 in the lives of the ordinary people she met on her travels. 203 00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:52,720 矿工在这片富矿山区劳作数百年 For centuries, miners worked these mineral-rich hills. 204 00:12:52,720 --> 00:12:56,200 中世纪时这里开采黄金 In the middle ages, gold was extracted here 205 00:12:56,200 --> 00:13:01,320 1803年多萝西到访时，银矿与铅矿规模庞大 and when Dorothy visited in 1803, there were extensive silver and lead mines. 206 00:13:02,680 --> 00:13:05,440 虽然最后一座矿场早已关闭 Although the last mine here closed long ago, 207 00:13:05,440 --> 00:13:08,840 游客仍可深入探访 it's still possible for tourists to explore them. 208 00:13:08,840 --> 00:13:12,240 向导安妮·高夫带我进入矿洞 Guide Annie Gough takes me underground. 209 00:13:12,240 --> 00:13:14,920 小心头顶 Mind your head, there. 210 00:13:14,920 --> 00:13:18,800 如多萝西一样，今日游客仍会震惊于 Like Dorothy, tourists today are amazed by the dangerous 211 00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:22,680 当年众多劳动者—— and difficult conditions that so many working people, 212 00:13:22,680 --> 00:13:27,200 男性与童工所承受的艰险环境 men and young boys, once had to endure. 213 00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:29,120 他们每年仅领一次薪 They only got paid once a year 214 00:13:29,120 --> 00:13:31,200 因工作不单是采矿 because it wasn't just mining the lead, 215 00:13:31,200 --> 00:13:34,360 还需冶炼并出口海外 it was smelting it and selling it overseas. 216 00:13:34,360 --> 00:13:37,320 款项到位前分文不得 They didn't get any money until that was done, 217 00:13:37,320 --> 00:13:40,160 通常需等待一年 so they would have to wait usually a year for their money, 218 00:13:40,160 --> 00:13:41,720 有时甚至两年 sometimes even two years. 219 00:13:41,720 --> 00:13:43,480 两年没有收入？ Two years without being paid? 220 00:13:43,480 --> 00:13:46,320 最长两年，所有生活所需 Up to two years sometimes, so everything they needed 221 00:13:46,320 --> 00:13:48,880 都需从公司商店赊账 they had to go on credit from the company store. 222 00:13:48,880 --> 00:13:51,960 -难以置信 -年终或两年后结薪时 - Amazing. - And then when they got paid at the end of the year or two years, 223 00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:54,160 需偿还全部债务 they would have to pay back everything they owed. 224 00:13:54,160 --> 00:13:55,920 实为债务奴隶 They were debt slaves really. 225 00:13:55,920 --> 00:14:01,360 基本如此。一旦负债就必须持续工作 Basically, yeah, and once you were in debt, you had to keep working 226 00:14:01,360 --> 00:14:04,120 直至偿清债务 until hopefully eventually you could pay everything back. 227 00:14:05,520 --> 00:14:09,640 我们难以想象在寒冷黑暗中 It is hard for us to comprehend the lives that were lived down here 228 00:14:09,640 --> 00:14:14,160 矿工的生活状态 in the cold and the dark and definitely not the sort of thing 229 00:14:14,160 --> 00:14:18,280 这绝非18世纪淑女会感兴趣的事物 you would expect an 18th century lady to be interested in, 230 00:14:18,280 --> 00:14:21,240 但多萝西打破了这种刻板印象 but Dorothy Wordsworth had broken the mould, 231 00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:24,200 成为工业旅游的先驱 becoming a pioneering industrial tourist. 232 00:14:27,320 --> 00:14:28,840 重返地面后 Back in the open air, 233 00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:31,120 我思索着地下的恶劣环境 I reflect on the grim conditions 234 00:14:31,120 --> 00:14:34,000 以及早期苏格兰游客面临的 underground and on the equally grim 235 00:14:34,000 --> 00:14:37,520 另一项严峻挑战... challenge faced by many early tourists to Scotland... 236 00:14:37,520 --> 00:14:40,760 传统苏格兰菜单 The traditional Scotch menu. 237 00:14:40,760 --> 00:14:44,200 1803年多萝西到访时 When Dorothy Wordsworth came to Scotland in 1803, 238 00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:46,480 苏格兰尚未准备好满足 the country wasn't really geared up to cater 239 00:14:46,480 --> 00:14:51,280 南方游客的口味。旅馆稀少 for the tastes of southern tourists. Hotels were few and far between 240 00:14:51,280 --> 00:14:56,400 食物对讲究的味蕾堪称挑战 and the food presented something of a challenge for more sophisticated palates. 241 00:14:56,400 --> 00:15:00,040 简言之：难以下咽 In other words, it was hard to stomach. 242 00:15:00,040 --> 00:15:04,280 但多萝西更为坚韧 But Dorothy Wordsworth was made of sterner stuff. 243 00:15:04,280 --> 00:15:08,080 当男性反胃时，她大快朵颐 When male stomachs turned, she tucked in. 244 00:15:08,080 --> 00:15:12,080 "首道菜很苏格兰——煮羊头 "The first dish was too Scottish - a boiled sheep's head 245 00:15:12,080 --> 00:15:15,760 "毛发燎净，我吃得津津有味" "with the hair singed off and I ate heartily of it." 246 00:15:15,760 --> 00:15:17,560 美味至极！ Yum, yum! 247 00:15:17,560 --> 00:15:21,360 所幸苏格兰旅游餐饮已今非昔比 Fortunately, the Scottish tourist menu has changed a good deal 248 00:15:21,360 --> 00:15:26,360 为重温往昔风味 since Dorothy's day and to recapture the flavour of our collective past, 249 00:15:26,360 --> 00:15:29,520 我拜访了烹饪作家苏·劳伦斯的厨房 I am in the kitchen of cookery writer Sue Lawrence. 250 00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:32,320 苏，鳕鱼头看起来并不开胃 Now Sue, a cod's head is not particularly appetising. 251 00:15:32,320 --> 00:15:33,560 这是要做什么？ What's going on here? 252 00:15:33,560 --> 00:15:35,480 这道菜叫"鳕鱼酿头" Well, it's for a dish called "Crappit Heid," 253 00:15:35,480 --> 00:15:38,840 非常古老的传统菜，本质是塞馅鱼头 a very old traditional dish, basically stuffed head 254 00:15:38,840 --> 00:15:42,040 -用鳕鱼制作 -"Crappit"何意？ -意为"填充" -明白 - and we're using a cod. - Crappit? - "Crappit" means to stuff. - Right. 255 00:15:42,040 --> 00:15:45,480 鳕鱼酿头是物尽其用的菜肴 Crappit Heid is a waste-not, want-not sort of dish 256 00:15:45,480 --> 00:15:48,320 连鱼眼都加以利用 that even makes use of the eyes of the fish. 257 00:15:48,320 --> 00:15:50,880 鱼眼可食用，放入汤汁煮熟后 They are edible and you can actually poach them in the liquor 258 00:15:50,880 --> 00:15:53,200 口感似溏心蛋 and they are supposed to be like soft boiled eggs. 259 00:15:53,200 --> 00:15:56,200 为何会有人想吃鳕鱼头？ Now why would anyone want to eat a cod's head? 260 00:15:56,200 --> 00:15:58,120 这可不是首选食材！ It's not the first thing that comes to mind! 261 00:15:58,120 --> 00:16:00,080 我知道，我知道！我是说有几件事要注意。 I know, I know! Well, I mean a couple of things. 262 00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:02,480 首先，这东西叫"鱼杂碎羊肚"， First of all, it's sort of called a piscatorial haggis, 263 00:16:02,480 --> 00:16:06,440 - 就是鱼肉馅的羊肚包，是迫于无奈发明的。 - 明白。 - so it's a fishy haggis, so it was through necessity. - Right. 264 00:16:06,440 --> 00:16:09,800 人们饿极了什么都吃，换现在可能直接扔掉了。 People were hungry, what would you do? We would just fling it out now, probably. 265 00:16:09,800 --> 00:16:13,640 但古人不会浪费，他们手边有什么？燕麦粉。 They wouldn't have done in the olden days and what did they have nearby? They had oatmeal. 266 00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:18,240 把鳕鱼或黑线鳕的肝脏（首选黑线鳕）， And you mixed the liver, either from the cod or preferably haddock, 267 00:16:18,240 --> 00:16:20,960 因为鳕鱼肝里常有恶心的小寄生虫， cos cod's liver tends to be full of horrible little worms, 268 00:16:20,960 --> 00:16:23,200 处理干净就行， which is fine, but you've just got to get rid of them, 269 00:16:23,200 --> 00:16:26,240 和等量燕麦粉混合， and you mix that with equal quantities of oatmeal, 270 00:16:26,240 --> 00:16:28,440 调味后塞进鱼头里。 season it, and just stuff it in the head. 271 00:16:30,400 --> 00:16:34,040 这道菜不适合胆小的人 This recipe is not for the faint-hearted 272 00:16:34,040 --> 00:16:37,840 光是混合食材就需要强健的体魄 and just combining the ingredients requires a strong constitution. 273 00:16:37,840 --> 00:16:39,560 得用手搅拌。 You're meant to go with your hands. 274 00:16:39,560 --> 00:16:42,120 我待会儿再动手！但现在... I will have to do that later! But at this stage... 275 00:16:42,120 --> 00:16:45,320 你用的这些食材实在令人不适 I mean you really are putting together some of the most unpleasant 276 00:16:45,320 --> 00:16:47,680 - 而且匪夷所思 - 没错！ - and unlikely ingredients in this. - Exactly! 277 00:16:47,680 --> 00:16:50,560 鱼眼睛和腥臭的肝脏！天呐！ Fish eyes and minging liver! Oh dear! 278 00:16:50,560 --> 00:16:51,640 （他大笑） HE LAUGHS 279 00:16:51,640 --> 00:16:54,720 - 现在该塞馅料了！ - 苏你好勇敢！ - I think we'll get to the stuffing now! - You're very brave, Sue! 280 00:16:54,720 --> 00:16:57,520 - 用手... - 你太勇敢了！ - With my hands... - You're very brave! 281 00:16:57,520 --> 00:17:00,040 用手塞进去，塞严实。 With my hands, and stuff it, and get it right in. 282 00:17:00,040 --> 00:17:04,000 就当是给圣诞火鸡填料吧，这样想就舒服多了。 I suppose, you know, I'm now thinking it's like the Christmas turkey, so it's fine. 283 00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:06,080 对，嗯。等苏施展完魔法后， Right, uh-huh. After Sue has worked her magic, 284 00:17:06,080 --> 00:17:10,960 她把鳕鱼头煮30分钟，冷却后 she boils the cod's head for 30 minutes and then lets it cool 285 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:15,760 给我呈上了这道"塞馅鱼头"的完整形态。 before presenting me with Crappit Heid in all its glory. 286 00:17:15,760 --> 00:17:18,320 您建议我先尝哪个部位？ Which part would you recommend I sample first? 287 00:17:18,320 --> 00:17:20,640 脸颊肉应该不错， I think probably this bit of the cheek would be lovely, 288 00:17:20,640 --> 00:17:22,440 可以搭配一点馅料， and if you want to have a wee bit of that, 289 00:17:22,440 --> 00:17:25,040 这样吃更... maybe with some of the stuffing, that should be... 290 00:17:25,040 --> 00:17:26,960 哦？连馅料一起吃？ Oh, really? Some of the stuffing as well? 291 00:17:26,960 --> 00:17:30,440 对。应该会非常美味...大概吧！ Yes. That should be utterly delicious, I would have thought.. maybe! 292 00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:33,160 好。切一小块，放进嘴里。 Right. So there's a little bit there, pop it in the mouth. 293 00:17:33,160 --> 00:17:36,280 嗯，应该没问题，没问题。 Yeah, yeah, it should be fine, it should be fine. 294 00:17:36,280 --> 00:17:37,920 我也陪你吃一块。 I'll just join you in that. 295 00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:41,480 - 还行。 - 嗯。 - That's all right. - Yeah. 296 00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:43,640 - 其实没什么味道。 - 是啊。 - It doesn't actually taste of anything at all. - No. 297 00:17:43,640 --> 00:17:46,640 - 像冷掉的鱼肉。 - 现在该挑战肝脏馅料了 - It's like cold fish. - So now it's the rather challenging stuffing 298 00:17:46,640 --> 00:17:49,520 - 对，真要尝这个？ - 要尝。 - with the liver. - Right, OK. Do you really want me to try this? - Yes. 299 00:17:49,520 --> 00:17:53,240 从鱼眼窝里溢出来的这部分？ From the stuffing that is protruding through the eye sockets? 300 00:17:53,240 --> 00:17:55,240 对，就眼窝这部分。我觉得... From the eye sockets, yes. I think that is.. 301 00:17:55,240 --> 00:17:58,520 美味极了！来喽。 Scrummy, yummy, yummy it is! Here we go. 302 00:17:58,520 --> 00:18:01,040 一、二、三。 One, two, three. 303 00:18:03,840 --> 00:18:07,880 还行吧？不过肝脏味确实很冲。 It's not bad, is it? It's definitely liver-ish though, isn't it? 304 00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:10,360 - 嗯。 - 你还好吗？ - Mm-hm. - Are you OK? 305 00:18:10,360 --> 00:18:12,760 - 我在回想... - 要喝水吗？ - I'm just remembering... - Drink of water? 306 00:18:12,760 --> 00:18:14,960 制作过程。 How we prepared it. 307 00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:18,400 - 肝脏味实在太重了。 - 嗯。 - It's really quite strong, that liver taste, isn't it? - Mm-hm. 308 00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:20,640 幸好没吃出寄生虫！ Still, it could be worse, there could be worms in it! 309 00:18:20,640 --> 00:18:22,080 （两人大笑） THEY LAUGH 310 00:18:22,080 --> 00:18:25,160 不该提醒我的，苏！ You shouldn't have said that, Sue! Oh, dear! 311 00:18:28,160 --> 00:18:33,240 为了让味蕾从"塞馅鱼头"的冲击中恢复， To give my tastebuds a chance to recover from the shock of Crappit Heid, 312 00:18:33,240 --> 00:18:38,240 我前往山区呼吸新鲜空气。 I head for the hills where I fill my lungs with fresh, clean air. 313 00:18:38,240 --> 00:18:40,520 户外活动真好！ It's great to be outside! 314 00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:46,560 维多利亚时代鲜有女性涉足这片山地， In Victorian times, few women ventured into this landscape 315 00:18:46,560 --> 00:18:50,120 虽然这里的山不如苏格兰高地高耸， and although the mountains here are not as high as in the Highlands, 316 00:18:50,120 --> 00:18:51,640 但仍具挑战性， they're still challenging, 317 00:18:51,640 --> 00:18:54,880 所以当时女性被鼓励留在家中。 which is why the ladies were encouraged to stay at home. 318 00:18:57,200 --> 00:18:59,800 在加洛韦山区的格伦特鲁尔， In Glentrool, high in the Galloway hills, 319 00:18:59,800 --> 00:19:04,120 我结识了弗兰·卢茨，她开设课程鼓励女性 I meet up with Fran Loots, who runs classes to encourage women 320 00:19:04,120 --> 00:19:07,200 更好地探索这片美丽乡野。 to get more out of this beautiful countryside. 321 00:19:07,200 --> 00:19:10,080 - 这地图标注很详细啊？ - 是的。 - So, it's pretty detailed then, this map, isn't it? - Yeah it is, yeah. 322 00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:14,680 比例尺很大，连通往那边房子的羊肠小道都标出来了。 This scale shows a lot so it is shows a track going off which leads to the house over there that you can see. 323 00:19:14,680 --> 00:19:16,440 确定方位后， Having got our bearings, 324 00:19:16,440 --> 00:19:20,960 我们开始了如诗如画的山林徒步。 we set out on a hike through picture-perfect woods and hills. 325 00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:26,080 弗兰，你认为男女欣赏自然的方式真有差异吗？ Fran, do you think that men and women really appreciate nature differently? 326 00:19:26,080 --> 00:19:29,040 确实存在差异， I think there are differences, 327 00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:33,200 女性更享受沉浸式体验环境， I think women enjoy just savouring that environment that they're in 328 00:19:33,200 --> 00:19:37,240 我和男性朋友出行时， a little bit more. Often when I've gone out with my male friends 329 00:19:37,240 --> 00:19:40,400 他们总盯着时间赶路， it's a bit of a clock-watch job and we've got this destination, 330 00:19:40,400 --> 00:19:45,560 执着于"今天要征服那座山"的目标， this goal that we are going to do today, we are going to go and conquer this hill 331 00:19:45,560 --> 00:19:49,640 埋头猛冲。当然不是所有男性都这样， and they just charge off. Not all of them, but quite a few, 332 00:19:49,640 --> 00:19:52,400 但女性往往更注重过程体验。 whereas women tend to savour it a bit more. 333 00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:55,320 你觉得很多女性错过了这种体验吗？ Do you think a lot of women feel that they are missing out 334 00:19:55,320 --> 00:19:58,720 或根本没意识到自己错过了什么？ or do you think that a lot of women are possibly missing out on this experience? 335 00:19:58,720 --> 00:20:03,200 确实如此。我带过不少户外经验不足的女性， I think so. When I have taken women who have not had much experience 336 00:20:03,200 --> 00:20:07,120 她们都爱上了这种体验。 of being out in the great outdoors, they just love it. 337 00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:10,120 她们真的会被震撼到， I mean they do find it literally awe-inspiring, 338 00:20:10,120 --> 00:20:13,200 哪怕是最细微的事物， that appreciation of just even tiny little things, 339 00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:19,880 远离尘嚣，单纯享受自然之美， but just away from the hustle and bustle and just enjoying the beauty 340 00:20:19,880 --> 00:20:21,640 与壮阔。 and the size of it all, yeah. 341 00:20:26,560 --> 00:20:31,360 徒步数小时后，我需要让双脚降降温， Having tramped for hours, I feel the need to cool my feet, 342 00:20:31,360 --> 00:20:33,880 于是让女士们自行返程， so leaving the ladies to navigate home, 343 00:20:33,880 --> 00:20:36,600 我独自前往海岸。 I make my own way to the coast. 344 00:20:36,600 --> 00:20:41,320 海边嬉水是最简单的度假消遣， One of the simplest holiday pastimes has to be paddling in the sea 345 00:20:41,320 --> 00:20:44,480 让咸涩的海水包裹身体， where you can luxuriate in salt water 346 00:20:44,480 --> 00:20:49,240 感受沙粒掠过脚趾的酥痒，但在索尔威海岸， and let the sand tickle over your toes, but down on the Solway coast 347 00:20:49,240 --> 00:20:51,640 你会遇到个小麻烦： here you are faced with a bit of a problem 348 00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:57,040 退潮后会露出绵延数英里的 because when the tide goes out, it leaves behind miles and miles and miles 349 00:20:57,040 --> 00:21:02,760 厚重黏腻的泥滩，但有人却视若珍宝。 of thick, sticky mud, but for some people this is absolutely ideal. 350 00:21:06,520 --> 00:21:11,680 我深一脚浅一脚地穿过温热泥沼时， Squelching my way across a huge expanse of warm, oozing mud, 351 00:21:11,680 --> 00:21:15,960 遇见了热衷古老"比目鱼踏捕"运动的 I meet up with Vivian Brown, who is a big fan of the ancient 352 00:21:15,960 --> 00:21:19,040 维维安·布朗， and honourable sport of floundering, 353 00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:23,480 这项运动需要赤脚在滩涂寻找比目鱼。 when folk go barefoot in search of the humble flat fish. 354 00:21:23,480 --> 00:21:27,160 - 呃，泥巴太恶心了！ - （他大笑） - Yuck, this is really, really muddy! - HE LAUGHS 355 00:21:27,160 --> 00:21:29,520 你喜欢这样？ Are you enjoying this? 356 00:21:29,520 --> 00:21:32,200 倒也不觉得难受！ I don't think it is unpleasant! 357 00:21:32,200 --> 00:21:34,640 踏捕者就专找这种 Is this what flounderers look for 358 00:21:34,640 --> 00:21:37,360 泥泞的地方抓比目鱼？ when they come tramping for flounders, a lot of mud? 359 00:21:37,360 --> 00:21:40,160 泥滩是关键， A lot of mud, that's the main part of it. 360 00:21:40,160 --> 00:21:42,280 比目鱼反而是次要的！ The flounders are kind of secondary, I think! 361 00:21:42,280 --> 00:21:46,040 具体怎么抓？ What are we looking for, how do we catch a flounder? 362 00:21:46,040 --> 00:21:47,000 用脚踩住， You stand on them, 363 00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:50,760 但人踩到鱼的本能反应是... but your natural instinct if you stand on a fish obviously is... 364 00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:53,560 - 跳开！ - 所以要克服本能 - Is to jump away! - To jump away, so you have got to be really brave 365 00:21:53,560 --> 00:21:58,240 保持踩踏动作再徒手抓鱼。 and keep your foot on and then pick it up. 366 00:21:58,240 --> 00:21:59,560 不用鱼叉？ So you don't spear them? 367 00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:01,360 现在不允许了。 No, we are not allowed to do that any more. 368 00:22:01,360 --> 00:22:03,360 那抓了也不吃？ So you don't eat them then? 369 00:22:03,360 --> 00:22:05,040 过去有人吃， People have eaten them in the past, 370 00:22:05,040 --> 00:22:08,200 但现在都提倡放生。 but we now return the fish to the water afterwards, yes. 371 00:22:08,200 --> 00:22:11,160 - 是出于对比目鱼的关爱？ - 没错。 - Is that just to be kind to flounders? - To be kind to flounders, yes. 372 00:22:11,160 --> 00:22:13,160 然后回家吃炸鱼块？ And then go home for a fish tea? 373 00:22:13,160 --> 00:22:14,960 对！吃鱼条！ That's right! Fish fingers! 374 00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:16,880 这世界真奇妙！ It is a strange old world! 375 00:22:16,880 --> 00:22:17,920 确实！ Absolutely! 376 00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:23,960 索尔威海岸这片区域曾因举办 This part of the Solway coast was for many years famous 377 00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:27,240 大型比目鱼踏捕大赛而闻名。 for holding a mass flounder-tramping competition. 378 00:22:27,240 --> 00:22:31,440 这项盛事曾吸引数百人参加， It was a major event, attracting hundreds of eager entrants 379 00:22:31,440 --> 00:22:33,800 近年又复兴起来。 and has recently been revived. 380 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:37,160 - 当年规模很大？ - 是的。 - This was really a big event. - It was, yes. 381 00:22:37,160 --> 00:22:39,680 - 这可是世锦赛！ - 真的？ - Well, this is the World Championship! - Really? 382 00:22:39,680 --> 00:22:42,520 对，全球选手都来参赛。 Yes. People come from all over the world. 383 00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:44,320 还有其他国际性的 Are there other international venues 384 00:22:44,320 --> 00:22:46,720 踏捕赛事举办地吗？ that are famous for flounder-tramping or whatever? 385 00:22:46,720 --> 00:22:49,200 - 仅此一家！ - 唯一赛事？ - 唯一！ - No, this is the only one! - This is it? - This is it. 386 00:22:49,200 --> 00:22:51,880 作为资深踏捕者， So, as an experienced flounder-tramper, 387 00:22:51,880 --> 00:22:56,240 - 你肯定知道最佳捕鱼点。 - 当然。 - you must know the best spots, really. - Oh, yes. 388 00:22:56,240 --> 00:22:59,920 全靠你的经验带我 I'm relying on your native instinct here to lead me 389 00:22:59,920 --> 00:23:03,480 抓索尔威海岸有史以来最大的比目鱼！ to catch the biggest flounder ever caught on the Solway coast! 390 00:23:03,480 --> 00:23:05,840 （她大笑） SHE LAUGHS 391 00:23:05,840 --> 00:23:09,760 抵达比目鱼猎场时， As we reach our floundering hunting-ground, 392 00:23:09,760 --> 00:23:13,680 我对这片奇特水域打起了退堂鼓。 I'm having second thoughts about this peculiar spot. 393 00:23:13,680 --> 00:23:15,920 维维安，这体验实在太诡异了。 So, it is a really kind of odd experience, Vivian. 394 00:23:15,920 --> 00:23:19,080 我们在淤泥中摸索， We're probing into this mud, into this silt. 395 00:23:19,080 --> 00:23:21,480 全凭触感行事， We can't really see what we are doing, it's all by touch 396 00:23:21,480 --> 00:23:23,960 简直恶心透顶！呃，踩到什么了？呕！ and it is really quite disgusting! Ugh, what's that? Ugh! 397 00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:24,840 （她大笑） SHE LAUGHS 398 00:23:24,840 --> 00:23:26,400 刚才踩到个东西！ I put my foot on something there! 399 00:23:26,400 --> 00:23:30,080 呕！呕！ Ugh! Ugh! 400 00:23:30,080 --> 00:23:33,000 尽管多次误触可疑物体， Despite many fishy false alarms, 401 00:23:33,000 --> 00:23:37,120 我这双生疏的脚丫始终没找到比目鱼。 my untrained toes failed to locate the elusive flounder. 402 00:23:37,120 --> 00:23:40,720 - 现在潮水是涨还是退？ - 正在涨潮。 - Now, that tide, is it coming in or is it going out? - It is coming in. 403 00:23:40,720 --> 00:23:41,800 - 好吧。 - 是的。 - Right. - Yes. 404 00:23:41,800 --> 00:23:44,040 我们最好别被潮水困住， So, we had better not get cut off by the tide, Vivian, 405 00:23:44,040 --> 00:23:46,440 - 那就惨了！ - 那太可怕了！ - that would be disastrous! - That would be just terrible! 406 00:23:46,440 --> 00:23:48,600 只能在这儿过夜了！ We would just have to spend the day here! 407 00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:50,440 恐怕得游泳逃生！ I think we would have to swim! 408 00:23:50,440 --> 00:23:51,960 （两人大笑） THEY LAUGH 409 00:23:57,560 --> 00:24:01,760 与维维安的踏捕经历激起了我的狩猎欲。 Floundering with Vivian has whetted my appetite for the hunt. 410 00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:03,200 沿着海岸线行进时， Travelling along the coast, 411 00:24:03,200 --> 00:24:07,840 我决定在深水区试试手气。 I take the opportunity to try my luck in deeper waters. 412 00:24:07,840 --> 00:24:12,000 索尔威湾拥有全欧洲 The Solway Firth provides some of the finest sea angling 413 00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:13,520 最优质的海钓资源。 anywhere in Europe. 414 00:24:13,520 --> 00:24:16,480 专业钓手克里斯汀·伯雷特 I am in the capable hands of Christine Burrett, 415 00:24:16,480 --> 00:24:19,640 将助我钓上条大鱼。 who I hope is going to help me land a whopper. 416 00:24:20,680 --> 00:24:24,280 为热身我们先钓鲭鱼， To get me in the mood, we stop for a spot of mackerel fishing, 417 00:24:24,280 --> 00:24:27,200 很快我的鱼竿就有了动静！ and it is not long before my rod is twitching! 418 00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:28,800 有鱼上钩了！ Oh, something is biting here! 419 00:24:28,800 --> 00:24:30,720 快看！钓到了吗？ Oh, there you go! Have you got something? 420 00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:32,880 是鲭鱼，有鲭鱼上钩了。 Oh, you have, you have got mackerel coming up, yeah. 421 00:24:32,880 --> 00:24:34,920 我这儿有收获。上来了！ I have got something here. Here we go! 422 00:24:34,920 --> 00:24:36,320 我们这边也钓到了。 Yeah, we have got them as well. 423 00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:40,280 好大一条！太棒了！ I've got a beauty! I've got a beauty! There we are! 424 00:24:40,280 --> 00:24:42,160 - 快看！ - 给力吧！ - Look at that! - There you go! 425 00:24:42,160 --> 00:24:43,800 - 你也钓到一条！ - 我钓了两条！ - You've got one as well! - I've got two! 426 00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:45,960 两条！你赢了！ You've got two! You beat me! 427 00:24:45,960 --> 00:24:49,040 海钓通常有什么规矩？ What is the normal kind of protocol for this sort of thing? 428 00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:52,080 会带很多鱼回去吃吗？ I mean, do you take a lot of fish back to eat? 429 00:24:52,080 --> 00:24:55,600 - 不，我们提倡放生。 - 为什么？ - Well, no, we try and put everything back, you know. - Why is that? 430 00:24:55,600 --> 00:24:58,680 我以为钓鱼就是为了加菜！ I thought the point of fishing was to take something home for your tea! 431 00:24:58,680 --> 00:25:02,280 不全是，这里主要是竞技钓鱼。 Not always, not always. It's sport fishing, really, round here. 432 00:25:02,280 --> 00:25:06,200 多数钓友都致力于保护枯竭的鱼类资源， Most anglers want to help conserve depleted fish stocks, 433 00:25:06,200 --> 00:25:10,600 放流是最合理的做法。 so returning their catch makes perfect sense. 434 00:25:10,600 --> 00:25:13,000 但钓鱼现在非常流行对吧？ But fishing is an extremely popular pastime, isn't it? 435 00:25:13,000 --> 00:25:14,880 没错，参与人数还在增长， Oh, yes, it is growing as well 436 00:25:14,880 --> 00:25:17,800 越来越多女性也加入进来。 and you find more and more women getting involved as well now. 437 00:25:17,800 --> 00:25:19,360 - 是吗？ - 对。 - Yes? - Yep. 438 00:25:19,360 --> 00:25:21,400 又上钩了，这次稳了。 I've got one, I've got one, here we go. 439 00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:24,360 保罗你这次钓了多少？ How many have you got this time then, Paul? 440 00:25:24,360 --> 00:25:25,680 挺多的。 A lot, I think. 441 00:25:25,680 --> 00:25:28,040 鱼线挂满了吧？ You've got a full string, have you? 442 00:25:28,040 --> 00:25:30,640 没满。哦不，四条！ Not necessarily a full string. Oh, no, I have got four! 443 00:25:30,640 --> 00:25:33,080 四条上钩！ I have got four! 444 00:25:33,080 --> 00:25:35,840 四条鱼即将入舱。 Four fish coming aboard. 445 00:25:35,840 --> 00:25:37,960 一、二、三... One, two, three... 446 00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:39,800 沉甸甸的收获！ What a weight! 447 00:25:39,800 --> 00:25:40,840 （她大笑） SHE LAUGHS 448 00:25:40,840 --> 00:25:45,680 鲭鱼接连上钩之际，我们转战新战场， The mackerel are coming thick and fast but it is time to move on, 449 00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:49,600 挑战更具竞技性的 to try for a fish that is considered to be a more sporting catch, 450 00:25:49,600 --> 00:25:50,960 绿鳕。 the pollock. 451 00:25:50,960 --> 00:25:54,640 所以我只要盯着浮标上下浮动， So basically, I am just sitting here watching this float bob up and down 452 00:25:54,640 --> 00:25:56,640 这就是竞技性？ and that is the sport part? 453 00:25:56,640 --> 00:25:59,240 这叫竞技休闲两不误。 That is the sport. Well, that's the relaxing part. 454 00:25:59,240 --> 00:26:01,200 - 确实很放松。 - 非常惬意， - It is very relaxing. - Yes, it is very relaxing, 455 00:26:01,200 --> 00:26:03,320 尤其在这种好天气。 especially on a day like this, isn't it. 456 00:26:03,320 --> 00:26:07,760 克里斯汀，你觉得男女在 I am just wondering, Christine, if there is a difference of approach 457 00:26:07,760 --> 00:26:10,800 钓鱼艺术上存在差异？ between men and women to the art of fishing? 458 00:26:10,800 --> 00:26:13,120 - 钓鱼艺术？ - 对。 - To the art of fishing? - Yes. 459 00:26:13,120 --> 00:26:15,480 女性就爱碾压男性， Well, I think all women just like to beat the men, 460 00:26:15,480 --> 00:26:18,720 - 这是关键！ - 所以你们很争强好胜？ - that is one thing about it, oh, yeah! - So you are quite competitive? 461 00:26:18,720 --> 00:26:20,440 我们超级好胜。 We are very competitive, yes. 462 00:26:20,440 --> 00:26:23,360 克里斯汀的挑衅 Christine has just thrown down the gauntlet 463 00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:27,640 激起了我在她专业领域战胜她的欲望 and I can't resist the challenge to beat her at her own game 464 00:26:27,640 --> 00:26:30,360 必须钓条更大的。上钩了！ by catching my whopper. Got it! 465 00:26:30,360 --> 00:26:33,720 - 感觉到鱼咬钩了吗？ - 有！哇！ - Now do you feel the fish biting? - Yes, whoah! Whoah! 466 00:26:33,720 --> 00:26:36,120 把鱼竿抬离水面。 Try and lift your rod out of the water. 467 00:26:36,120 --> 00:26:37,760 这才是竞技！天！好大！ This is the sport! Whoa! It is huge! 468 00:26:37,760 --> 00:26:40,320 - 对了。 - 巨物！快看！ - That's it. - This is a big one! Look at that! 469 00:26:40,320 --> 00:26:42,280 - 这条更好。 - 太完美了！ - That is a better one, yes. - This is a cracker! 470 00:26:42,280 --> 00:26:43,400 干得漂亮！ Well done! 471 00:26:43,400 --> 00:26:44,800 （他大笑） HE LAUGHS 472 00:26:44,800 --> 00:26:50,160 今晚加餐！看看这条！ Wow! How about that for your tea! Look at this one! 473 00:26:50,160 --> 00:26:52,240 把竿梢抬高些。 Try and get your rod tip up. 474 00:26:52,240 --> 00:26:56,280 巨型绿鳕！这尺寸！ Enormous! Look at the size of that! 475 00:26:56,280 --> 00:26:58,400 哇，快看！ Wow, look at that! 476 00:26:58,400 --> 00:27:00,560 - 看看这美人鱼！ - （她大笑） - Look at this beauty! - SHE LAUGHS 477 00:27:00,560 --> 00:27:03,040 再看看钓到它的帅哥？ And look at the man that caught it, eh? 478 00:27:03,040 --> 00:27:07,600 但转眼克里斯汀就钓上更大的。 But just seconds later, Christine catches a whopper of her own. 479 00:27:07,600 --> 00:27:11,080 哈哈！我的比你大！ Aha! Mine is bigger than yours! 480 00:27:11,080 --> 00:27:13,960 才怪！我的明显更大 I don't think so, Christine! I think mine was considerably bigger 481 00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:16,720 - 你心里有数！ - 随你怎么说。 - than that, and you know! - OK then. 482 00:27:16,720 --> 00:27:20,600 没有比看着绿鳕重返家园 What more fitting end to a grand day out 483 00:27:20,600 --> 00:27:24,640 更完美的收官方式了。 than to see our pollock swim away to his fishy home. 484 00:27:27,920 --> 00:27:32,000 我的西南部之旅即将落幕， I am coming to the end of my grand tour of the south-west 485 00:27:32,000 --> 00:27:35,520 从英格兰边境启程， which started on the border with England and finishes 486 00:27:35,520 --> 00:27:37,480 终点遥望爱尔兰。 within sight of Ireland. 487 00:27:40,920 --> 00:27:42,760 这里是波特帕特里克。 This is Portpatrick. 488 00:27:42,760 --> 00:27:48,440 《布莱克旅游指南》记载，小镇得名于圣帕特里克的造访， Black's Guide Book explains that the town owes its name to a visit from St Patrick 489 00:27:48,440 --> 00:27:51,400 传说圣徒曾在此登岸。 who is said to have stepped ashore one day. 490 00:27:53,000 --> 00:27:55,920 波特帕特里克与爱尔兰渊源深厚 It is not surprising that Portpatrick 491 00:27:55,920 --> 00:28:01,640 不足为奇——这里距爱尔兰海岸仅21英里， has so many Irish connections - it's just 21 miles from the Irish coast 492 00:28:01,640 --> 00:28:05,520 几个世纪以来两岸民众 and for centuries there has been a constant stream of people 493 00:28:05,520 --> 00:28:08,600 始终保持着密切往来。 going backwards and forwards across the sea. 494 00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:13,440 因毗邻爱尔兰，这里成为西部版的"格雷特纳格林"（私奔圣地）， Being so close to Ireland, Portpatrick became the Gretna Green 495 00:28:13,440 --> 00:28:17,840 18世纪时，翡翠岛上的私奔情侣们 of the far west and in the 18th century, love-struck runaways 496 00:28:17,840 --> 00:28:21,200 乘船来此 from the Emerald Isle made their way here by boat 497 00:28:21,200 --> 00:28:25,560 狂热地举行婚礼，为我的苏格兰环游 and got married in a fever, which is a suitably romantic note for me 498 00:28:25,560 --> 00:28:29,720 画上极具女性色彩的浪漫句点。 to end my Grand Tour of Scotland with a feminine touch. 499 00:28:31,520 --> 00:28:35,200 欢迎继续收看我的 Join me on my next Grand Tour of Scotland 500 00:28:35,200 --> 00:28:38,920 下一次苏格兰横贯之旅。 when I will be crossing the country from coast to coast. 501 00:28:41,080 --> 00:28:44,120 字幕由Red Bee Media Ltd提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd