1  
00:00:04,200 --> 00:00:09,280  
在铁路和公路将苏格兰向大众旅游开放之前的日子里，  
In the days before rail and road opened Scotland up to mass tourism,  

2  
00:00:09,280 --> 00:00:13,160  
出行可能既不舒服又耗时。  
getting around could be uncomfortable and time-consuming.  

3  
00:00:14,200 --> 00:00:18,600  
但有一个地方，早期的游客可以尽情欣赏  
But there was a place where early visitors could enjoy the full range  

4  
00:00:18,600 --> 00:00:22,640  
各种令人惊叹的风景，而无需忍受  
of awe-inspiring landscapes without ever having to endure  

5  
00:00:22,640 --> 00:00:26,920  
长途跋涉的不便。  
the inconvenience of travelling huge distances.  

6  
00:00:26,920 --> 00:00:29,680  
所以我带上了我的旧旅行指南，  
So I've packed my old guidebook,  

7  
00:00:29,680 --> 00:00:32,640  
准备开始阿伦岛的盛大之旅，  
and I'm off on a Grand Tour of Arran,  

8  
00:00:32,640 --> 00:00:36,960  
这座岛屿自称是苏格兰的缩影。  
an island that claims to be Scotland in miniature.  

9  
00:00:39,760 --> 00:00:42,480  
首次出版于1846年，  
First published in 1846,  

10  
00:00:42,480 --> 00:00:46,920  
《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》是一本插图丰富的  
Black's Picturesque Guide To Scotland is a lavishly illustrated  

11  
00:00:46,920 --> 00:00:51,920  
百科全书，介绍去哪里、看什么以及如何到达。  
encyclopaedia of where to go, what to see, and how to get there.  

12  
00:00:53,360 --> 00:00:56,120  
它是当时的《孤独星球》指南，  
It was the Lonely Planet Guide of its day,  

13  
00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:59,120  
充满了关于一切的有用提示，  
packed full of useful hints on everything  

14  
00:00:59,120 --> 00:01:03,720  
从当地习俗、小费到穿苏格兰短裙的礼仪。  
from native customs, tipping, and the etiquette of wearing a kilt.  

15  
00:01:05,880 --> 00:01:09,000  
它曾在我家人度假时指引过我们，  
It once guided my own family when we went on holiday,  

16  
00:01:09,000 --> 00:01:13,960  
40年后，我掸去灰尘，准备用它来探索  
and 40 years on, I'm dusting it down and setting off to explore  

17  
00:01:13,960 --> 00:01:18,000  
21世纪苏格兰的大街小巷，  
the highways and byways of 21st century Scotland,  

18  
00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:22,040  
将《布莱克》作为灵感和参考。  
using Black's as both an inspiration and a reference.  

19  
00:01:22,040 --> 00:01:26,640  
我的第一次盛大之旅将前往这座自称  
For my first Grand Tour, I'm heading for the island that claims  

20  
00:01:26,640 --> 00:01:29,920  
拥有一切的岛屿。  
to have a little bit of everything.  

21  
00:01:43,920 --> 00:01:46,520  
阿伦岛周长仅56英里，  
Arran is just 56 miles in circumference  

22  
00:01:46,520 --> 00:01:51,280  
但根据我的指南，它是苏格兰的缩影。  
but according to my guide, it's a microcosm of Scotland.  

23  
00:01:51,280 --> 00:01:55,880  
《布莱克》说：“从崎岖的山脉到起伏的丘陵，  
Black's says, "From the rugged mountain to the swelling hill,  

24  
00:01:55,880 --> 00:02:01,240  
开阔的山谷或狭窄的峡谷，这里有如此多样的地形，  
"the open valley, or the contracted glen, there is that diversity  

25  
00:02:01,240 --> 00:02:05,640  
很少能在这么小的范围内找到。”  
"of surface that is rarely found condensed into so small a compass."  

26  
00:02:08,280 --> 00:02:12,800  
对于维多利亚时代的旅行者来说，这是理想的目的地，  
For Victorian travellers, this was the ideal destination,  

27  
00:02:12,800 --> 00:02:17,160  
一个拥有壮丽风景、古老历史  
a place with stunning scenery, ancient history  

28  
00:02:17,160 --> 00:02:19,320  
和美丽海滩的地方。  
and beautiful beaches.  

29  
00:02:19,320 --> 00:02:23,240  
一个浓缩了苏格兰所有精华的地方。  
A place that's a distillation of all that's best in Scotland.  

30  
00:02:23,240 --> 00:02:27,680  
一个游客无需太多乏味旅行就能探索的地方。  
A place tourists can explore without too much tedious travel.  

31  
00:02:32,360 --> 00:02:35,960  
我将沿着阿伦岛崎岖的海岸线旅行，  
I'm making a trip around Arran's rugged coastline,  

32  
00:02:35,960 --> 00:02:38,800  
攀登雄伟的戈特费尔山，  
scaling the magnificent Goatfell,  

33  
00:02:38,800 --> 00:02:41,040  
寻找岛上的野生动物，  
searching for the island's wildlife  

34  
00:02:41,040 --> 00:02:44,560  
并在苏格兰唯一的天体海滩逗留。  
and hanging out at Scotland's only nudist beach.  

35  
00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:52,480  
但我的旅程从西岸开始，就在德拉马杜恩湾，  
But my journey begins on the western shore, here at Drumadoon Bay  

36  
00:02:52,480 --> 00:02:55,760  
这里曾发生过一次著名的相遇。  
and the scene of a famous encounter.  

37  
00:03:02,800 --> 00:03:07,520  
国王洞穴是这条海岸线上几个大洞穴之一。  
The King's Cave is one of several large caves along this coastline.  

38  
00:03:07,520 --> 00:03:10,320  
根据当地传说，正如他们所说，  
And according to local legend, as they say,  

39  
00:03:10,320 --> 00:03:12,880  
不是别人，正是罗伯特·布鲁斯国王  
none other than King Robert the Bruce  

40  
00:03:12,880 --> 00:03:17,880  
在这里找到了战胜英格兰压迫的灵感。  
found inspiration here to overcome the oppression of the English.  

41  
00:03:17,880 --> 00:03:21,720  
就在上面的一个洞穴里，布鲁斯看到了蜘蛛。  
In a cave just up there, Bruce saw the spider.  

42  
00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:28,840  
每个小学生都知道这个故事。  
Every school kid knows the story.  

43  
00:03:28,840 --> 00:03:32,320  
在被通缉并经历了无数次失败后逃亡，  
Outlawed and on the run after countless defeats,  

44  
00:03:32,320 --> 00:03:35,240  
罗伯特·布鲁斯躲在一个洞穴里。  
Robert the Bruce shelters in a cave.  

45  
00:03:35,240 --> 00:03:37,920  
他的处境似乎毫无希望。  
His situation seems beyond hope.  

46  
00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:43,000  
哇，这里空间真大。  
Wow, this is a huge space in here.  

47  
00:03:44,240 --> 00:03:47,280  
沮丧中，他看着一只蜘蛛织网。  
Depressed, he watches a spider spin a web.  

48  
00:03:48,840 --> 00:03:51,600  
但风把网吹断了。  
But the wind breaks it.  

49  
00:03:51,600 --> 00:03:54,960  
蜘蛛毫不气馁，又试了一次。  
Undaunted, the spider tries again.  

50  
00:03:59,400 --> 00:04:01,720  
网又断了。  
Again, the web breaks.  

51  
00:04:01,720 --> 00:04:06,440  
这种情况不断发生，蜘蛛不断尝试，  
This keeps on happening, and the spider keeps on trying  

52  
00:04:06,440 --> 00:04:08,080  
直到成功。  
until it's successful.  

53  
00:04:08,080 --> 00:04:10,600  
罗伯特·布鲁斯深受感动。  
Robert the Bruce is impressed.  

54  
00:04:10,600 --> 00:04:12,440  
他要像蜘蛛一样。  
He'll be like the spider.  

55  
00:04:12,440 --> 00:04:16,000  
他会不断尝试，直到击败英格兰人。  
He'll try and try again until he defeats the English.  

56  
00:04:18,760 --> 00:04:23,760  
这是个很棒的故事，但不幸的是，它完全是编造的。  
Now it's a great story, but unfortunately it's entirely made up.  

57  
00:04:23,760 --> 00:04:26,680  
即使真有洞穴，也不会在这里，  
And even if there had been a cave, it wouldn't have been here,  

58  
00:04:26,680 --> 00:04:30,240  
而是在阿尔斯特海岸外的拉特林岛。  
but on Rathlin Island off the coast of Ulster.  

59  
00:04:30,240 --> 00:04:31,720  
至于蜘蛛……  
And as for the spider...  

60  
00:04:31,720 --> 00:04:35,560  
历史上完全没有记载，  
Well, history is entirely silent on the subject,  

61  
00:04:35,560 --> 00:04:38,800  
直到沃尔特·斯科特爵士捡起这个故事，  
until Sir Walter Scott picks up the story  

62  
00:04:38,800 --> 00:04:42,360  
编织了一个完全不同的网。  
and weaves an altogether different kind of web.  

63  
00:04:42,360 --> 00:04:43,720  
纯属虚构。  
Pure fiction.  

64  
00:04:46,760 --> 00:04:52,160  
这些洞穴中有证据表明人类长期居住的历史。  
There is evidence in these caves of a long history of human occupation.  

65  
00:04:52,160 --> 00:04:53,760  
最早使用这些洞穴的人  
The first people to use them  

66  
00:04:53,760 --> 00:04:57,240  
可能是数千年前冰川在上一个冰河时代末期融化时  
were probably hunters who moved here thousands of years ago  

67  
00:04:57,240 --> 00:05:01,520  
迁移到这里的猎人。  
as glaciers melted at the end of the last Ice Age.  

68  
00:05:03,760 --> 00:05:06,520  
但正是斯科特对历史的幻想解读  
But it was Scott's fanciful interpretation of history  

69  
00:05:06,520 --> 00:05:09,360  
促使阿伦岛的旅馆老板们推销布鲁斯和蜘蛛的神话，  
that prompted Arran hoteliers to peddle the myth  

70  
00:05:09,360 --> 00:05:11,280  
并将这个洞穴称为国王洞穴，  
of Bruce and the spider,  

71  
00:05:11,280 --> 00:05:15,320  
使其成为维多利亚时代游客  
and to refer to this cave as the King's Cave,  

72  
00:05:15,320 --> 00:05:18,640  
可以邂逅苏格兰历史关键时刻的便利地点。  
making it a convenient location where Victorian tourists  

73  
00:05:18,640 --> 00:05:22,680  
could encounter a critical moment in Scotland's history.  

74  
00:05:23,960 --> 00:05:28,000  
真正让我印象深刻的是所有的涂鸦。  
The thing that does strike me is all the graffiti.  

75  
00:05:28,000 --> 00:05:29,600  
墙上到处都是。  
The walls are covered with it.  

76  
00:05:29,600 --> 00:05:31,960  
而且这不仅仅是现代的涂鸦。  
And this isn't just modern graffiti.  

77  
00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:37,160  
它可以追溯到苏格兰旅游业的开端。  
It dates back to the beginnings of tourism in Scotland.  

78  
00:05:37,160 --> 00:05:40,240  
那里有一个1879年的涂鸦。太离谱了！  
There's one there from 1879. It's outrageous!  

79  
00:05:44,120 --> 00:05:48,000  
这些维多利亚时代的游客在夏季成千上万地来到岛上，  
These Victorian visitors came to the island in their thousands  

80  
00:05:48,000 --> 00:05:49,400  
in the summer season.  

81  
00:05:49,400 --> 00:05:52,720  
他们中的许多人会到达我的下一个目的地，  
Many of them would have arrived at my next destination,  

82  
00:05:52,720 --> 00:05:55,920  
洛克兰扎，这座岛屿的北部门户。  
Lochranza, the northern gateway to the island.  

83  
00:05:59,960 --> 00:06:03,480  
这些寻求夏日乐趣的人将阿伦岛变成了  
These seekers of summer fun transformed Arran  

84  
00:06:03,480 --> 00:06:08,440  
苏格兰最受欢迎的度假胜地之一。  
into one of Scotland's best-loved holiday destinations.  

85  
00:06:08,440 --> 00:06:10,360  
但开辟阿伦岛度假之路的  
But it wasn't seekers of summer fun  

86  
00:06:10,360 --> 00:06:13,280  
并不是这些寻求夏日乐趣的人。  
who blazed the holiday trail on Arran.  

87  
00:06:13,280 --> 00:06:15,520  
第一批游客对在海滩上嬉戏  
The first visitors weren't interested  

88  
00:06:15,520 --> 00:06:17,640  
并不感兴趣。  
in frolicking on the beach.  

89  
00:06:17,640 --> 00:06:19,960  
他们想敲石头。  
They wanted to bang rocks.  

90  
00:06:20,960 --> 00:06:26,040  
地质学是18世纪最伟大的科学痴迷，  
Geology was the great scientific obsession of the 18th century,  

91  
00:06:26,040 --> 00:06:30,880  
阿伦岛的古老岩层将为当时最紧迫的科学问题  
and Arran's ancient rock formations would provide vital clues  

92  
00:06:30,880 --> 00:06:33,800  
提供重要线索，  
to the most pressing scientific question of the time,  

93  
00:06:33,800 --> 00:06:35,600  
即地球的年龄。  
the age of the Earth.  

94  
00:06:35,600 --> 00:06:39,880  
欣赏阿伦岛海岸岩层的最佳方式之一是从海上，  
One of the best ways to see Arran's coastal rock formations  

95  
00:06:39,880 --> 00:06:44,000  
所以我将与我的向导卡卢姆·麦克尼科尔一起出海，  
is from the sea, so I'm taking to the waves with my guide,  

96  
00:06:44,000 --> 00:06:48,480  
他熟悉这段美丽海岸线的每一寸。  
Calum McNicol, who knows every inch of this beautiful coastline.  

97  
00:06:48,480 --> 00:06:51,560  
卡卢姆，我了解到第一批来阿伦岛的游客  
So, Calum, I understand the first tourists to come to Arran  

98  
00:06:51,560 --> 00:06:55,240  
对岩石而不是海滩感兴趣，对吗？  
were interested in rocks and not beaches, is that right?  

99  
00:06:55,240 --> 00:06:57,920  
是的，没错。这段海岸线  
Aye, that's right. This section of coastline here  

100  
00:06:57,920 --> 00:07:01,600  
真正在1800年代开启了旅游业。  
really started the industry of tourism back in the 1800s.  

101  
00:07:01,600 --> 00:07:04,800  
第一批来岛上的游客是地质学家。  
The first visitors to the islands were geologists.  

102  
00:07:04,800 --> 00:07:08,040  
有一位苏格兰农民出身的科学家叫詹姆斯·赫顿，  
There was a Scottish farmer turned scientist called James Hutton  

103  
00:07:08,040 --> 00:07:10,640  
有些人说他是地质学之父。  
and some would say he was the forefather of geology.  

104  
00:07:10,640 --> 00:07:13,560  
他是个相当激进的思想家，  
He was quite a radical thinker, you know,  

105  
00:07:13,560 --> 00:07:16,840  
当时地球的年龄还完全未知。  
and the age of the Earth was really an unknown.  

106  
00:07:16,840 --> 00:07:19,680  
赫顿提出了一个理论，认为岩石  
Hutton came up with a theory that the rocks  

107  
00:07:19,680 --> 00:07:21,800  
是在海底沉积的，  
had been lain down on the ocean bed  

108  
00:07:21,800 --> 00:07:25,080  
经历了数千万或数亿年的时间。  
over the course of tens or hundreds of millions of years.  

109  
00:07:26,800 --> 00:07:30,240  
1787年，他来到这座岛上，  
In 1787, he visited the island  

110  
00:07:30,240 --> 00:07:33,320  
并用这段海岸线来支持他的理论。  
and he used this stretch of coastline here to back up his theory.  

111  
00:07:34,640 --> 00:07:38,240  
我读到过，真正让阿伦岛出名的是  
Now, I've read that the thing that really put Arran on the map  

112  
00:07:38,240 --> 00:07:42,960  
这个名字优美的“赫顿不整合面”。  
was this exquisitely-named Hutton's Unconformity.  

113  
00:07:42,960 --> 00:07:45,040  
这到底是什么？  
Now, what on earth is that?  

114  
00:07:45,040 --> 00:07:50,400  
赫顿不整合面是一段海岸线，  
Well, Hutton's Unconformity is an area of coastline  

115  
00:07:50,400 --> 00:07:54,760  
展示了两种截然不同的岩层。  
which shows us two distinct, different rock formations.  

116  
00:07:54,760 --> 00:07:56,840  
这在当时非常重要。  
This was really quite a significant moment.  

117  
00:07:56,840 --> 00:07:59,680  
在科学史上，它极其重要。  
In scientific history, it was incredibly important.  

118  
00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:03,240  
我迫不及待想看看这个不整合面。  
Well, I can't wait to see this Unconformity.  

119  
00:08:03,240 --> 00:08:05,920  
我能看到上面有一些砂岩。  
I can see some sandstone up there.  

120  
00:08:05,920 --> 00:08:08,560  
其他种类的石头被海藻覆盖。  
Other sorts of stone covered in seaweed.  

121  
00:08:08,560 --> 00:08:10,760  
你好！  
Hello!  

122  
00:08:10,760 --> 00:08:13,400  
你见过赫顿不整合面吗？  
Have you seen Hutton's Unconformity?  

123  
00:08:13,400 --> 00:08:15,680  
就在这附近。  
It's up here somewhere.  

124  
00:08:15,680 --> 00:08:17,680  
它非常显眼。  
It's unmistakable.  

125  
00:08:17,680 --> 00:08:19,160  
对，就是这里。  
Yeah, this is it here.  

126  
00:08:19,160 --> 00:08:21,920  
这就是在1800年代震惊世界的东西。  
This is what turned the world on its head in the 1800s.  

127  
00:08:21,920 --> 00:08:25,000  
卡卢姆，我不太确定我能看到你说的东西。  
I'm not really convinced I can see what you're talking about, Calum.  

128  
00:08:25,000 --> 00:08:28,240  
在外行人眼里，这不过是一堆石头，  
To the untrained eye, it's nothing more than a bunch of rocks,  

129  
00:08:28,240 --> 00:08:30,760  
但对地质学家来说，这是一幅惊人的景象。  
but to a geologist, it's an incredible sight.

130  
00:08:30,760 --> 00:08:33,080  
右侧的岩石朝一个方向折叠，  
The rocks on the right are folding in one direction  

131  
00:08:33,080 --> 00:08:35,920  
而左侧的岩石则完全朝另一个方向折叠。  
and the rocks on the left are folding in a completely  

132  
00:08:35,920 --> 00:08:39,440  
这种褶皱的矛盾让赫顿在当时意识到，  
different direction. And that contradiction of the folds  

133  
00:08:39,440 --> 00:08:42,840  
它们来自地质时期的不同年代。  
suggested to Hutton, back in the day,  

134  
00:08:42,840 --> 00:08:46,160  
that they came from a different era in geological time.  

135  
00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,640  
卡卢姆，我得承认我有点失望。  
Must admit I'm a bit underwhelmed, Calum.  

136  
00:08:52,520 --> 00:08:57,520  
1785年，赫顿首次发表了他的《地球理论》，  
In 1785, Hutton first published his Theory Of The Earth,  

137  
00:08:57,520 --> 00:09:02,000  
挑战了关于地球形成的传统观念。  
which challenged conventional ideas on how our planet was formed.  

138  
00:09:02,000 --> 00:09:06,040  
他颇具争议地断言，地球的年龄比之前认为的要古老得多，  
He controversially asserted that the world was much older  

139  
00:09:06,040 --> 00:09:09,560  
并得出结论：  
than previously thought and concluded,  

140  
00:09:09,560 --> 00:09:13,440  
“我们找不到开始的痕迹，也看不到结束的前景。”  
"We find no vestige of a beginning, no prospect of an end."  

141  
00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:18,280  
所以他坐在这里，沉思自然和这些岩石，  
So he sat here and he mused upon nature, these rocks,  

142  
00:09:18,280 --> 00:09:20,680  
提出了一个革命性的理论，  
and came up with a revolutionary theory  

143  
00:09:20,680 --> 00:09:23,240  
至今仍让人们惊叹不已。  
that people have been in awe of ever since.  

144  
00:09:23,240 --> 00:09:26,240  
直到今天，我们还能看到来自世界各地的地质学家  
And to this day, we get geologists from all over the world  

145  
00:09:26,240 --> 00:09:29,040  
在这段海岸线上来回穿梭，  
who ply back and forward along this stretch of the coastline  

146  
00:09:29,040 --> 00:09:33,000  
观察岩石，并为他的理论兴奋不已。  
looking at the rocks and getting excited about his theory.  

147  
00:09:33,000 --> 00:09:38,000  
在赫顿和维多利亚时代的科学游客之后，  
And after Hutton, and after the Victorian scientific tourists,  

148  
00:09:38,000 --> 00:09:42,280  
来的是纯粹追求乐趣的游客，  
came tourists in search of nothing more than pleasure,  

149  
00:09:42,280 --> 00:09:45,440  
他们至今仍在到来。我想，  
and they still come. And I guess,  

150  
00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:48,040  
我们现在做的事情是完美结合了  
doing what we're doing is a perfect way of combining  

151  
00:09:48,040 --> 00:09:51,040  
一点历史、一点地质学  
a little bit of history, little bit of geology  

152  
00:09:51,040 --> 00:09:53,440  
和大量绝美的风景。  
and a lot of fantastic scenery.  

153  
00:09:57,080 --> 00:10:01,120  
对许多游客来说，如果没有攀登这座主宰阿伦岛景观的山峰——  
For many visitors, a trip to Arran is not complete  

154  
00:10:01,120 --> 00:10:04,760  
戈特费尔山，阿伦岛之旅就不算完整。  
without climbing the mountain which dominates its landscape -  

155  
00:10:04,760 --> 00:10:06,200  
Goatfell.  

156  
00:10:06,200 --> 00:10:08,400  
我正打算这么做。  
I'm about to do just that.  

157  
00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:13,800  
对于勇敢的维多利亚时代游客来说，  
For the intrepid Victorian tourist,  

158  
00:10:13,800 --> 00:10:16,400  
攀登这座山峰是必不可少的。  
an ascent of this summit was de rigueur.  

159  
00:10:16,400 --> 00:10:20,520  
我的《布莱克指南》也鼓励读者向上攀登。  
And my copy of Black's urges its reader upwards.  

160  
00:10:23,640 --> 00:10:27,920  
“游客会发现自己被一片锯齿状的山峰和巨石包围。  
"The spectator finds himself surrounded by a sea  

161  
00:10:27,920 --> 00:10:30,480  
"of jagged peaks and massive boulders.  

162  
00:10:34,000 --> 00:10:36,400  
“他的目光可以向下扫视  
"His eye may wander down into  

163  
00:10:36,400 --> 00:10:38,680  
“脚下巨大的空洞。  
"the vast hollows beneath his feet.  

164  
00:10:44,360 --> 00:10:48,240  
“在晴朗的日子里，这番景色足以回报攀登的辛劳。”  
"The view on a clear day amply repays the labour."  

165  
00:10:55,200 --> 00:10:58,080  
戈特费尔山是一座迷人的山峰。  
Goatfell is a fascinating mountain.  

166  
00:10:58,080 --> 00:11:01,560  
它是一系列锯齿状山峰的一部分，这些山峰曾经是  
It's part of a range of jagged peaks that once formed  

167  
00:11:01,560 --> 00:11:05,080  
一座巨型坍塌火山的边缘。  
the rim of a gigantic, collapsed volcano.  

168  
00:11:05,080 --> 00:11:08,000  
要攀登这条山脉的所有山峰，  
And to do all the peaks in this mountain range,  

169  
00:11:08,000 --> 00:11:12,120  
是一项相当大的挑战，尤其是当云雾降临时，  
it's quite a challenge, especially when the cloud is coming down,  

170  
00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:16,680  
因为很容易在这些狭窄曲折的山脊上迷路。  
cos it's very easy to get lost on these narrow, twisting ridges.  

171  
00:11:16,680 --> 00:11:19,920  
现在我觉得天气开始变糟了，  
Now I think that the weather is beginning to deteriorate,  

172  
00:11:19,920 --> 00:11:23,520  
所以我决定稳妥起见，下山回去。  
so I'm going to play it safe, and head back down the hill.  

173  
00:11:25,440 --> 00:11:27,640  
和所有苏格兰山峰一样，  
Like all Scottish mountains,  

174  
00:11:27,640 --> 00:11:30,400  
戈特费尔山不容小觑，  
Goatfell is not to be under-estimated  

175  
00:11:30,400 --> 00:11:33,720  
自游客开始为乐趣攀登以来，  
and has claimed the lives of several walkers  

176  
00:11:33,720 --> 00:11:37,080  
已有数名徒步者在此丧生。  
since visitors first began scaling its heights for pleasure.  

177  
00:11:37,080 --> 00:11:40,480  
但并非所有死亡都是意外。  
But not all the fatalities were accidents.  

178  
00:11:41,480 --> 00:11:45,560  
早在维多利亚时代，就有一名游客在这戏剧性的环境中  
Back in Victorian times, one tourist met a grisly end  

179  
00:11:45,560 --> 00:11:48,360  
遭遇了可怕的结局。  
in these dramatic surroundings.  

180  
00:11:49,680 --> 00:11:54,000  
下到恰如其名般荒凉的桑诺克斯谷，  
Descending to the appropriately bleak Glen Sannox,  

181  
00:11:54,000 --> 00:11:56,640  
我遇到了当地历史学家斯图尔特·高夫，  
I meet up with local historian, Stuart Gough,  

182  
00:11:56,640 --> 00:12:03,000  
他熟知戈特费尔山时而血腥的过往秘密。  
who is well-versed in the secrets of Goatfell's sometimes bloody past.  

183  
00:12:03,000 --> 00:12:05,480  
斯图尔特，戈特费尔山上曾发生过一起非常臭名昭著的死亡事件。  
Now, Stuart, there was a very infamous death  

184  
00:12:05,480 --> 00:12:09,560  
发生了什么？涉及哪些人？  
took place up on Goatfell. What happened and who was involved?  

185  
00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:16,040  
那是1889年7月，两名男子——苏格兰人约翰·沃森·劳里和  
It was in July 1889 when two men - a Scotsman, John Watson Laurie,  

186  
00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:20,120  
英格兰人埃德温·罗伯特·罗斯，  
and Englishman, Edwin Robert Rose,  

187  
00:12:20,120 --> 00:12:24,600  
一起攀登戈特费尔山，但只有一人下山。  
walked together up Goatfell, but only one came back down.  

188  
00:12:24,600 --> 00:12:27,520  
- 只有一人下山...谁下山了？  
- 劳里回来了。  
- Only one came... Who came back down?  
- Laurie came back.  

189  
00:12:27,520 --> 00:12:30,120  
- 苏格兰人劳里下山了。  
- 苏格兰人回来了。  
- Laurie the Scotsman came back down.  
- The Scotsman came back.  

190  
00:12:30,120 --> 00:12:32,600  
罗斯怎么了？  
And what happened to Rose?  

191  
00:12:32,600 --> 00:12:35,720  
两周后，他的尸体在我们身后的桑诺克斯谷  
Well, his body was discovered two weeks later  

192  
00:12:35,720 --> 00:12:37,560  
被发现。  
in Glen Sannox there, behind us.  

193  
00:12:37,560 --> 00:12:39,200  
状态很糟。  
In a bad state.  

194  
00:12:39,200 --> 00:12:41,840  
已经腐烂，头部被砸烂。  
Decomposed, and head smashed in.  

195  
00:12:41,840 --> 00:12:44,240  
藏在一块巨石下。  
Hidden under a huge boulder.  

196  
00:12:44,240 --> 00:12:47,920  
- 所以怀疑是劳里用巨石...  
- 是的。  
- So the suspicion was that Laurie had wielded a boulder...  
- Yes.  

197  
00:12:47,920 --> 00:12:50,160  
- ..砸烂了罗斯的头。  
- 没错。  
- ..and smashed in Rose's head.  
- Correct.  

198  
00:12:50,160 --> 00:12:53,640  
- 然后试图隐藏尸体。  
- 藏尸。  
- And then tried to hide the corpse.  
- Hide the body, hide the corpse.  

199  
00:12:55,760 --> 00:12:58,840  
不过我觉得奇怪的是，斯图尔特，  
What I think's curious, though, Stuart, is the fact that  

200  
00:12:58,840 --> 00:13:02,120  
- 这两人都是游客。  
- 确实。  
- both these men were tourists.  
- Yes, indeed.  

201  
00:13:02,120 --> 00:13:06,000  
他们都在度假，在一次游轮旅行中相遇。  
They were both on holiday and met up on a pleasure cruise.  

202  
00:13:06,000 --> 00:13:08,400  
这次旅行并不愉快，对吧？  
It wasn't such a pleasurable cruise, was it?  

203  
00:13:08,400 --> 00:13:10,920  
- 一人杀了另一人。  
- 确实。  
- One did the other one to death.  
- Indeed.  

204  
00:13:10,920 --> 00:13:13,720  
两人上山，只有一人回来。  
Two men went up and only one came back.  

205  
00:13:15,680 --> 00:13:19,120  
可怜的罗斯就葬在这里，  
And here lies the body of poor Rose  

206  
00:13:19,120 --> 00:13:21,200  
他死在山里，这...  
who died up on the hill and it's...  

207  
00:13:21,200 --> 00:13:23,840  
- 确实。  
- ..有种奇怪的诗意，因为...  
- 是的。  
- Absolutely.  
- ..strangely poetic, really, because...  
- Yeah.  

208  
00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:28,120  
..他被发现时在一块巨石下，如今仍安息在一块巨石下。  
..he was found under a boulder and he remains under a boulder here.  

209  
00:13:28,120 --> 00:13:29,840  
如你所说，很有诗意。  
It's very poetic, as you say.  

210  
00:13:29,840 --> 00:13:34,760  
罗斯的尸体被发现后，劳里开始逃亡。  
When Rose's body was discovered, Laurie went on the run.  

211  
00:13:34,760 --> 00:13:37,960  
但经过全国范围的搜捕，他被抓获。  
But after a nationwide manhunt, he was captured.  

212  
00:13:39,480 --> 00:13:41,720  
审判后，他怎么样了？  
There was a trial, what happened to him?  

213  
00:13:41,720 --> 00:13:44,000  
判决是有罪。  
Well, the verdict was guilty.  

214  
00:13:44,000 --> 00:13:46,200  
判处绞刑。  
The sentence was death by hanging.  

215  
00:13:46,200 --> 00:13:50,040  
在他即将在格林诺克监狱被绞死前两天，  
And two days before he was due to be hanged in Greenock Jail,  

216  
00:13:50,040 --> 00:13:55,040  
维多利亚女王将他的刑期减为终身监禁。  
Queen Victoria commuted his sentence to life imprisonment.  

217  
00:13:55,040 --> 00:14:00,680  
他最终在珀斯监狱服刑41年，死在那里。  
He ended up going to jail for 41 years, dying in Perth Prison.  

218  
00:14:00,680 --> 00:14:04,520  
他是英国服刑时间最长的囚犯。  
He was Britain's longest-serving prisoner.  

219  
00:14:04,520 --> 00:14:07,320  
这个故事还有个可怕的转折。  
There's a grisly twist to this story.  

220  
00:14:07,320 --> 00:14:09,880  
谋杀受害者的靴子不见了。  
The murder victim's boots were missing.  

221  
00:14:09,880 --> 00:14:13,600  
审判期间，当地警方承认他们拿走了靴子，  
During the trial, the local police admitted to removing them  

222  
00:14:13,600 --> 00:14:15,920  
并埋在了海滩上。  
and burying them on the beach.  

223  
00:14:17,040 --> 00:14:19,200  
阿伦岛有个古老的传统，  
There's an old tradition on Arran  

224  
00:14:19,200 --> 00:14:21,360  
如果被谋杀者的靴子  
that if a murdered man's boots  

225  
00:14:21,360 --> 00:14:23,960  
没有经过这种仪式性处理，  
are not given this ritualistic treatment,  

226  
00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:27,240  
他的鬼魂就会在山间游荡，直到审判日。  
then his ghost will walk the hills until judgment day.  

227  
00:14:33,440 --> 00:14:35,000  
回到海岸线上，  
Back on the shoreline,  

228  
00:14:35,000 --> 00:14:39,240  
我正在享受一种完全无害的消遣。  
I'm indulging in an altogether more innocent pursuit.  

229  
00:14:43,880 --> 00:14:49,120  
维多利亚时代家庭最喜欢的消遣之一是岩池探险，  
A favourite Victorian family pastime was rock pooling,  

230  
00:14:49,120 --> 00:14:54,200  
这是一种简单的乐趣，只需要一个小虾网和一个桶。  
a simple pleasure involving a shrimp net and a bucket.  

231  
00:14:54,200 --> 00:14:57,520  
当然，你得脱下鞋袜，  
Now, of course, you had to remove your shoes and socks,  

232  
00:14:57,520 --> 00:15:01,080  
露出皮肤，把脚趾浸入水中。  
expose bare flesh and dip a toe in water.  

233  
00:15:02,280 --> 00:15:03,760  
非常大胆！  
Very daring!  

234  
00:15:06,920 --> 00:15:11,080  
当然，我们来到世上不是为了享乐，  
Of course, we're not put on this Earth to enjoy ourselves,  

235  
00:15:11,080 --> 00:15:16,200  
在19世纪，很多人难以接受纯粹为了乐趣而享乐。  
and in the 1800s, a lot of people had difficulty in accepting  

236  
00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:18,600  
pleasure for pleasure's sake.  

237  
00:15:19,680 --> 00:15:22,960  
所以他们试图将其包装成具有教育意义，  
So they tried to dress it up as being educational,  

238  
00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:24,680  
或道德上有益的活动。  
or morally beneficial.  

239  
00:15:26,600 --> 00:15:29,720  
岩池探险就是这种做法的典型例子，  
Rock pooling was a classic example of this  

240  
00:15:29,720 --> 00:15:34,000  
它是为海边旅行辩护的绝佳方式，  
and it was a brilliant way of justifying a trip to the seaside  

241  
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:38,800  
因为它完美契合了维多利亚时代的价值观。  
because it chimed in perfectly with good old Victorian values.  

242  
00:15:38,800 --> 00:15:41,080  
那到底是什么？  
What on earth's that?  

243  
00:15:41,080 --> 00:15:42,520  
真奇怪。  
How strange.  

244  
00:15:46,440 --> 00:15:50,440  
当时的作家热衷于支持岩池探险。  
Writers of the day were keen to endorse rock pooling.  

245  
00:15:50,440 --> 00:15:52,400  
查尔斯·金斯利牧师，  
The Reverend Charles Kingsley,  

246  
00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:56,560  
他写了畅销的道德寓言《水孩子》，  
who penned the best-selling moral fable, The Water Babies,  

247  
00:15:56,560 --> 00:16:01,400  
用热情洋溢的文字赞美了这一高尚爱好。  
wrote in glowing terms about the noble hobby.  

248  
00:16:01,400 --> 00:16:04,600  
“不要让任何人认为这项活动只适合  
"Let no-one think that this is a pursuit fitted  

249  
00:16:04,600 --> 00:16:07,800  
“柔弱或迂腐的人。  
"only for effeminate or pedantic men.  

250  
00:16:07,800 --> 00:16:11,080  
“相反，它需要的素质与  
"Rather, that the qualifications required  

251  
00:16:11,080 --> 00:16:13,600  
“中世纪完美的游侠骑士一样多且崇高。”  
"are as many and as lofty as those  

252  
00:16:13,600 --> 00:16:17,720  
"for the perfect knight-errant of the Middle Ages."  

253  
00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:20,000  
确实很英勇！  
Heroic stuff indeed!  

254  
00:16:22,120 --> 00:16:23,920  
在过去的日子里，  
Now, in days gone by,  

255  
00:16:23,920 --> 00:16:27,120  
像金斯利这样的岩池探险者会把他们在海岸上  
rock-poolers like Kingsley would have taken the specimens  

256  
00:16:27,120 --> 00:16:30,200  
发现的标本带回家。  
they found on the shore home with them at the end of their holiday.  

257  
00:16:30,200 --> 00:16:32,560  
如今，这种做法不被鼓励。  
Now today, this isn't encouraged.  

258  
00:16:32,560 --> 00:16:36,880  
取而代之的是“观察、学习并留下”的最佳策略。  
Instead, looking and learning and leaving behind is the best policy.  

259  
00:16:36,880 --> 00:16:41,440  
不管怎样，说实话，像这样的小螃蟹当宠物可不行。  
Anyway, let's face it, wee crabs like this make rubbish pets.  

260  
00:16:41,440 --> 00:16:43,800  
哎哟！放开！  
Ouch! Get off!

261  
00:16:45,360 --> 00:16:47,120  
到了20世纪初，  
By the early 1900s,  

262  
00:16:47,120 --> 00:16:51,360  
阿伦岛已成为时尚人士的聚集地。  
Arran had become THE place for the in crowd.  

263  
00:16:51,360 --> 00:16:55,400  
富裕家庭会租下房子度过整个夏天。  
Wealthy families would rent houses for the whole summer.  

264  
00:16:55,400 --> 00:16:59,240  
苏格兰最具影响力的家族之一  
And one of the most influential Scottish families  

265  
00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:01,800  
曾在布罗迪克城堡度假，  
holidayed here at Brodick Castle,  

266  
00:17:01,800 --> 00:17:04,240  
这也是我接下来要去的地方。  
where I'm headed next.  

267  
00:17:04,240 --> 00:17:08,880  
我受邀前往城堡拜访简·福德夫人，  
I've been invited to the Castle, to drop in on Lady Jean Fforde,  

268  
00:17:08,880 --> 00:17:12,840  
她是权势显赫的汉密尔顿公爵的直系后裔，  
who's a direct descendent of the powerful Dukes of Hamilton,  

269  
00:17:12,840 --> 00:17:17,040  
汉密尔顿家族曾拥有整座岛屿及更多领地。  
who once owned the entire island and a good deal more besides.  

270  
00:17:22,000 --> 00:17:26,360  
布罗迪克城堡可追溯至1510年，当时汉密尔顿家族  
Brodick Castle dates back to 1510, when the Hamiltons  

271  
00:17:26,360 --> 00:17:30,920  
与苏格兰王室关系密切。  
were closely connected to the Scottish Royal Family.  

272  
00:17:30,920 --> 00:17:33,440  
如今它归国民信托所有，  
Today, it's owned by the National Trust,  

273  
00:17:33,440 --> 00:17:37,800  
但在1930年代，这里是年轻的简夫人  
but back in the 1930s, this was where the young Lady Jean  

274  
00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:39,480  
度过假期的地方。  
spent her holidays.  

275  
00:17:39,480 --> 00:17:41,800  
简夫人，这房子太棒了。  
Lady Jean, this is an absolutely wonderful house.  

276  
00:17:41,800 --> 00:17:44,200  
您每年夏天都来这里吗？  
And you spent every summer here?  

277  
00:17:44,200 --> 00:17:45,680  
每年夏天。  
Every summer.  

278  
00:17:45,680 --> 00:17:49,800  
从5月1日待到9月30日。  
1st of May until the 30th of September.  

279  
00:17:49,800 --> 00:17:51,840  
童年时光一定很美好。  
It must have been wonderful as a child.  

280  
00:17:51,840 --> 00:17:54,560  
是的，但礼仪要求很严格。  
Yes, but it was strict manners.  

281  
00:17:54,560 --> 00:17:55,800  
- 真的吗？  
- 是的。  
- Really?  
- Oh, yes.  

282  
00:17:55,800 --> 00:17:58,880  
孩子不懂什么是显赫...  
A child doesn't know what grandeur is...  

283  
00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:00,520  
这里就是家。  
It's home.  

284  
00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:06,000  
这边曾摆着珐琅镀金的天鹅...  
There were enamel and gold swans over here...  

285  
00:18:06,000 --> 00:18:10,080  
还有非常 exotic 的鸭子装饰。  
and ducks, which were very exotic.  

286  
00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:14,200  
我们跑进来时她会说："当心鸭子！"  
And we'd come running in here and she'd say, "Mind the ducks!"  

287  
00:18:14,200 --> 00:18:17,800  
这句话成了家族传统。当有人要失言时，  
That has passed on in the family. If you're about to put your foot in it,  

288  
00:18:17,800 --> 00:18:20,000  
其他人就会说："当心鸭子。"  
the other members said, "Mind the ducks."  

289  
00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:23,720  
你无法想象穿过那扇门去睡觉有多可怕，  
And you have no idea how frightening it is to go through that door  

290  
00:18:23,720 --> 00:18:27,800  
整个楼梯间的墙上  
to go to bed, and the whole of the wall of the staircase  

291  
00:18:27,800 --> 00:18:30,840  
都挂满了雄鹿头标本，  
is covered with stags' heads  

292  
00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:34,040  
它们全都有玻璃眼珠。  
and they all had glass eyes.  

293  
00:18:34,040 --> 00:18:35,800  
灯光照在玻璃眼珠上，  
And the light caught the glass eyes  

294  
00:18:35,800 --> 00:18:39,920  
你会以最快速度冲上楼梯...  
and you ran up those stairs at the rate of knots...  

295  
00:18:39,920 --> 00:18:43,200  
- 可怕的雄鹿。  
- ..这些动物都盯着你看。  
- Pretty scary stags.  
- ..with these animals looking at you.  

296  
00:18:43,200 --> 00:18:45,840  
1930年代这里是什么样子？  
What was it like here in the 1930s?  

297  
00:18:45,840 --> 00:18:48,040  
非常有趣，真的，  
Well, it was great fun, really,  

298  
00:18:48,040 --> 00:18:51,080  
因为附近有很多朋友，  
because there were a lot of friends round about, you know,  

299  
00:18:51,080 --> 00:18:54,680  
有很多网球派对和骑马活动。  
a lot of tennis parties and then riding.  

300  
00:18:54,680 --> 00:18:57,600  
您还侧骑马鞍呢，看这张照片。  
You're riding side saddle, look at that.  

301  
00:18:57,600 --> 00:19:00,040  
我们有船，会出海，  
We had a boat, we went out,  

302  
00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:03,080  
捕鱼和龙虾。  
netting fish and lobster potting.  

303  
00:19:03,080 --> 00:19:06,680  
那么可以说在1930年代，  
So, would it be right to say that at that time, in the 1930s,  

304  
00:19:06,680 --> 00:19:09,800  
- 存在所谓的"阿伦岛社交圈"吗？  
- 是的。  
- there was such a thing as an Arran set?  
- Oh, yes.  

305  
00:19:09,800 --> 00:19:11,600  
确实存在。  
Yes, you certainly could.  

306  
00:19:11,600 --> 00:19:16,320  
人们会来住上一个月。  
People came down for a month and stayed.  

307  
00:19:16,320 --> 00:19:18,960  
同一批人年复一年租住同一栋房子。  
And the same people took the same house year in, year out.  

308  
00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:23,840  
这里也接待过一些相当显赫的人物。  
And you had some fairly illustrious people staying here as well.  

309  
00:19:23,840 --> 00:19:25,160  
是的。雷尼尔亲王。  
Yes. Prince Rainier.  

310  
00:19:25,160 --> 00:19:28,200  
这可是欧洲王室成员。  
This is the European royalty we're talking about here.  

311  
00:19:28,200 --> 00:19:29,480  
确实如此。  
Yes, absolutely.  

312  
00:19:31,160 --> 00:19:32,920  
有几次，  
On several occasions,  

313  
00:19:32,920 --> 00:19:36,040  
简夫人的表亲摩纳哥雷尼尔亲王  
Lady Jean's cousin, Prince Rainier of Monaco,  

314  
00:19:36,040 --> 00:19:38,920  
曾来阿伦岛度假。  
came to Arran on holiday.  

315  
00:19:38,920 --> 00:19:40,480  
这张照片里他穿着苏格兰短裙。  
Here, he's wearing a kilt.  

316  
00:19:42,200 --> 00:19:44,640  
短裙配的似乎是豹皮 sporran（腰包）  
A kilt with, it looks like, a leopard-skin sporran  

317  
00:19:44,640 --> 00:19:48,080  
- 我觉得...  
- 看起来是。  
- ..这在今天可能不被允许。  
- It does look like.  
- ..wouldn't be allowed today.  

318  
00:19:48,080 --> 00:19:49,760  
确实不允许。  
No, it wouldn't.  

319  
00:19:49,760 --> 00:19:53,640  
雷尼尔亲王和他的家人对苏格兰印象如何？  
What did Prince Rainier and his family make of Scotland?  

320  
00:19:53,640 --> 00:19:55,120  
他们很喜欢。  
Oh, they loved it.  

321  
00:19:56,800 --> 00:20:01,160  
与他们习惯的环境截然不同。  
It was so different to what they were accustomed to.  

322  
00:20:02,760 --> 00:20:05,520  
这是在阿伦岛。这是雷尼尔亲王。  
This is on Arran. That's Prince Rainier.  

323  
00:20:05,520 --> 00:20:09,520  
安托瓦内特公主，昵称"小不点"。还有我。  
Princess Antoinette, known as Tiny. And me.  

324  
00:20:10,800 --> 00:20:16,680  
1956年，雷尼尔亲王与影星格蕾丝·凯利结婚，  
In 1956, Prince Rainier married movie star Grace Kelly,  

325  
00:20:16,680 --> 00:20:20,640  
不过阿伦岛并非他们的蜜月目的地。  
although Arran was not their honeymoon destination.  

326  
00:20:20,640 --> 00:20:23,440  
但她是最可爱的人。  
But she was the most adorable person.  

327  
00:20:23,440 --> 00:20:26,880  
我是说，抛开影星或王妃的身份，  
I mean, film star, nothing, or princess, nothing,  

328  
00:20:26,880 --> 00:20:30,400  
作为普通人见面时，她非常友善。  
as a person to meet, she was very nice.  

329  
00:20:30,400 --> 00:20:31,960  
真的很棒。  
Really nice.  

330  
00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:36,840  
随着简夫人长大，阿伦岛始终在她心中占据特殊位置，  
As Lady Jean grew up, Arran remained close to her heart,  

331  
00:20:36,840 --> 00:20:40,320  
童年和青年时期在这里度过的夏天  
and the summers spent here as a child and a young woman  

332  
00:20:40,320 --> 00:20:44,960  
为她留下了无数珍贵回忆。  
have provided her with countless precious memories.  

333  
00:20:46,240 --> 00:20:47,760  
听起来，  
Well it sounds to me,  

334  
00:20:47,760 --> 00:20:50,640  
简夫人，您在这里度过了非常快乐的童年。  
Lady Jean, as if you had very happy times here as a child.  

335  
00:20:50,640 --> 00:20:52,800  
是的，非常快乐。  
Oh, yes. Oh, very.  

336  
00:20:52,800 --> 00:20:54,280  
非常快乐。  
Very happy.  

337  
00:20:59,360 --> 00:21:04,200  
离开城堡优雅的环境后，  
Leaving the genteel surroundings of the Castle behind,  

338  
00:21:04,200 --> 00:21:05,920  
我再次来到水边，  
I take to the water again,  

339  
00:21:05,920 --> 00:21:09,400  
前往岛屿南端的基尔多南。  
to head down to the southern tip of the island at Kildonan.  

340  
00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:17,040  
划皮划艇是观察野生动物的绝佳方式，  
Now, being in a kayak is a brilliant way of spotting wildlife,  

341  
00:21:17,040 --> 00:21:20,800  
但我最想看到的是一种美丽的生物，  
but there's one beautiful creature I'm desperate to see,  

342  
00:21:20,800 --> 00:21:23,120  
那就是难以捉摸的水獭。  
and that's the elusive otter.  

343  
00:21:23,120 --> 00:21:27,320  
现在我正划向岸边，去见一位能帮我找到水獭的人。  
Now I'm paddling ashore to meet a woman who can help me find one.  

344  
00:21:27,320 --> 00:21:31,160  
这段海岸线是观察水獭的最佳地点之一，  
This coastline is one of the best places to see the otter,  

345  
00:21:31,160 --> 00:21:34,000  
但你需要知道在哪里寻找。  
but you have to know where to look.  

346  
00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:37,280  
这段海岸线太棒了。  
This is a fantastic stretch of coastline.  

347  
00:21:37,280 --> 00:21:40,280  
我们经常看到海豹和其他海鸟，比如塘鹅、  
We usually see seals and other sea birds, gannets,  

348  
00:21:40,280 --> 00:21:43,680  
金雕、白尾鹞和马鹿。  
golden eagles, and hen harriers and red deer.  

349  
00:21:43,680 --> 00:21:46,480  
这里是观察野生动物的绝佳地点。  
It's just a brilliant place for watching wildlife.  

350  
00:21:46,480 --> 00:21:48,720  
露西·华莱士住在这里，为热衷观察野生动物的游客  
'Lucy Wallace lives here and runs tours  

351  
00:21:48,720 --> 00:21:50,800  
组织导览活动。  
'for keen wildlife enthusiasts.'  

352  
00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:52,680  
你认为这种旅游方式  
So is that quite a new development,  

353  
00:21:52,680 --> 00:21:54,600  
是比较新的发展吗？  
do you think, in tourism,  

354  
00:21:54,600 --> 00:21:57,800  
人们来阿伦岛这样的地方观赏野生动物？  
people coming to a place like Arran to enjoy the wildlife?  

355  
00:21:57,800 --> 00:22:00,920  
我认为人们一直来阿伦岛观赏野生动物，  
I think people have always come to Arran to enjoy the wildlife,  

356  
00:22:00,920 --> 00:22:03,680  
但旅游业可能现在才开始  
but I think that perhaps the tourism industry  

357  
00:22:03,680 --> 00:22:07,960  
更好地重视野生动物资源，  
is learning to value its wildlife a little bit better,  

358  
00:22:07,960 --> 00:22:09,880  
开始理解并认识到  
and starting to understand and appreciate  

359  
00:22:09,880 --> 00:22:12,240  
野生动物对游客的意义，  
what our wildlife means to our visitors,  

360  
00:22:12,240 --> 00:22:16,400  
并充分利用这一点。  
and make the most of that.  

361  
00:22:16,400 --> 00:22:19,240  
- 希望我们能见到水獭。  
- 祈祷好运。  
- Well, let's hope we can see an otter.  
- Fingers crossed.  

362  
00:22:24,840 --> 00:22:26,560  
- 是只苍鹭。  
- 苍鹭。  
- It's a heron.  
- A heron.  

363  
00:22:27,760 --> 00:22:31,480  
露西，我一直想知道这个问题的答案。  
Now, Lucy, I've always wanted to know the answer to this question.  

364  
00:22:31,480 --> 00:22:34,840  
生活在海里的海獭，  
Are sea otters, the ones that live in the sea,  

365  
00:22:34,840 --> 00:22:38,280  
与河里的水獭是同一种动物吗？  
are they the same or different from the otters you find in rivers?  

366  
00:22:38,280 --> 00:22:41,240  
在英国，我们只有一种水獭，  
In the UK, the only otter species we have  

367  
00:22:41,240 --> 00:22:43,480  
就是欧亚水獭，学名Lutra lutra。  
is the Eurasian Otter, Lutra lutra.  

368  
00:22:43,480 --> 00:22:45,200  
- Lutra lutra！  
- Lutra lutra。  
- Lutra lutra!  
- Lutra lutra.  

369  
00:22:45,200 --> 00:22:48,680  
它们既生活在河流也生活在海岸边。  
And they are found both in the rivers and along the coastline.  

370  
00:22:48,680 --> 00:22:51,600  
- 所以它们是同一种动物。  
- 是同一种。  
- Right, so they are the same animal.  
- They are the same animal, yeah.  

371  
00:22:51,600 --> 00:22:53,680  
属于鼬科，Mustelas属。  
Members of the weasel family, so Mustelas.  

372  
00:22:53,680 --> 00:22:55,200  
真的吗？是鼬类？  
Are they really? Are they weasels?  

373  
00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,520  
- 是的，大型水生鼬类。  
- 明白了。  
- They are, they're big aquatic weasels.  
- Right.  

374  
00:22:57,520 --> 00:22:58,920  
大型水生鼬类。  
A large aquatic weasel.  

375  
00:22:58,920 --> 00:23:02,040  
我还没见到这种大型水生鼬类呢。  
Well, I still haven't seen this large aquatic weasel yet.  

376  
00:23:02,040 --> 00:23:03,880  
我知道。我开始担心了。  
I know. Starting to worry me.  

377  
00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:07,320  
我们继续沿海岸前行。  
Along the coast we go.  

378  
00:23:07,320 --> 00:23:09,360  
随着天色渐暗，  
'As the light begins to fade,  

379  
00:23:09,360 --> 00:23:12,840  
看来我们可能运气不佳，就在这时...  
'it looks like we might be out of luck, and then...'  

380  
00:23:12,840 --> 00:23:15,280  
- 哦！我看到水獭了。  
- 看到了？  
- Ooh! I've got an otter.  
- Got an otter?  

381  
00:23:15,280 --> 00:23:17,760  
我看到水獭了。就在那块岩石上。  
I've got an otter. Just there on the rock.  

382  
00:23:17,760 --> 00:23:19,360  
- 哪里？  
- 平顶岩石...  
- Where?  
- Er, flat-top rock...  

383  
00:23:19,360 --> 00:23:21,680  
- 看到了。  
- 就在后面。  
- Yeah.  
- Just at the back there, yeah.  

384  
00:23:21,680 --> 00:23:23,920  
- 我看到了。  
- 对。  
- Oh, I see it.  
- Yeah.  

385  
00:23:23,920 --> 00:23:26,920  
伪装得很好。几乎和岩石同色。  
Very well camouflaged, though. Almost the same colour as the rock.  

386  
00:23:26,920 --> 00:23:28,080  
是的，它们...  
Yeah, they're...  

387  
00:23:28,080 --> 00:23:31,800  
巧克力棕色让它们很难被发现。  
That chocolate-brown colour makes them quite hard to spot.  

388  
00:23:31,800 --> 00:23:34,800  
它们潜水时间大约20秒左右。  
They dive down for, ooh, maybe 20 seconds or so.  

389  
00:23:34,800 --> 00:23:37,880  
20秒，现在差不多到20秒了。  
20 seconds, well, that must be about 20 seconds now.

390  
00:23:37,880 --> 00:23:40,240  
- 所以...  
- 哦，它在那儿！干得好。  
- So...  
- Oh, there he is! Well done.  

391  
00:23:40,240 --> 00:23:43,520  
- 又消失了。只看到尾巴。  
- 上上下下。  
- And he's disappeared again. Just a tail.  
- Up and down.  

392  
00:23:43,520 --> 00:23:45,360  
直接潜下去了。  
Diving straight down.  

393  
00:23:45,360 --> 00:23:48,400  
- 我们只看了一秒它就消失了。  
- 是的。  
- We see it for a second and it disappears.  
- Yes.  

394  
00:23:48,400 --> 00:23:52,080  
你必须时刻保持警觉...  
You do have to kind of keep your wits about you and...  

395  
00:23:53,840 --> 00:23:55,920  
..它们的出现可能转瞬即逝。  
..it can be very, very fleeting.  

396  
00:23:55,920 --> 00:23:58,680  
- 等一下。还有一只。  
- 真可爱。  
- Wait a minute. There's another one.  
- So that's lovely.  

397  
00:23:58,680 --> 00:24:00,440  
这简直太棒了，不是吗？  
It's absolutely brilliant, isn't it?  

398  
00:24:00,440 --> 00:24:04,160  
这些野生动物就在离岸边这么近的地方游动，  
These wild animals are swimming around just so close to our shore  

399  
00:24:04,160 --> 00:24:07,080  
它们完全没有察觉。  
and they're really not aware of it.  

400  
00:24:07,080 --> 00:24:09,720  
它们不受我们干扰，对吧？  
They're not bothered by us, are they?  

401  
00:24:09,720 --> 00:24:13,640  
- 是的。  
- 它们只是在进行自然的野生行为，  
- No.  
- They're just getting on with wild, natural behaviour,  

402  
00:24:13,640 --> 00:24:16,760  
本该如此。看着真让人愉悦。  
as it should be. It's just lovely to see.  

403  
00:24:16,760 --> 00:24:19,200  
这是莫大的荣幸，真的。  
Well it's a great privilege, it really is.  

404  
00:24:19,200 --> 00:24:22,480  
经常有人跟我出来，我完全理解他们的感受，  
Very often when people come out with me, and I can really sympathise,  

405  
00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:24,680  
因为我来阿伦岛之前也一样，  
cos it was the same for me before I moved to Arran,  

406  
00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:27,080  
- 他们从未见过水獭。  
- 啊哈。  
- they've, they've never seen an otter before.  
- Ah-ha.  

407  
00:24:27,080 --> 00:24:30,640  
所以能像这样站着观察几分钟真是...  
So to be able to stand and watch one for a few minutes like this is...  

408  
00:24:30,640 --> 00:24:32,880  
- 简直是奢侈。  
- ..非常美妙。  
- Well, that's an indulgence.  
- ..really fantastic.  

409  
00:24:32,880 --> 00:24:35,120  
确实是奢侈，对吧？我们真幸运。  
It is an indulgence, isn't it? We're really lucky.  

410  
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,120  
我曾见过一只水獭和比它还大的龙虾搏斗，  
I once saw an otter wrestling with a lobster  

411  
00:24:38,120 --> 00:24:40,000  
- 真的吗？  
- 嗯。  
- that was bigger than it.  
- Really?  

412  
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:41,080  
- 谁赢了？  
- 水獭。  
- Mmm.  
- Who came off best?  

413  
00:24:41,080 --> 00:24:42,720  
- 真的？  
- 是的。  
- The otter.  
- Really?  

414  
00:24:42,720 --> 00:24:43,760  
哦，是的。  
Oh, yes.  

415  
00:24:45,240 --> 00:24:46,440  
太神奇了。  
Fantastic.  

416  
00:24:50,640 --> 00:24:52,760  
水獭的数量情况如何？  
And how are the otter numbers doing, then?  

417  
00:24:52,760 --> 00:24:56,040  
根据观察，我们认为它们的数量在增长，所以...  
Well, anecdotally we think their numbers are growing, so...  

418  
00:24:56,040 --> 00:24:59,160  
- 这是好事。  
- ..它们似乎过得很好。  
- That's a great thing, all right.  
- ..they seem to be doing really well.  

419  
00:24:59,160 --> 00:25:01,240  
许多动物实际上都在减少。  
So many animals are actually in decline.  

420  
00:25:01,240 --> 00:25:04,600  
- 听到关于水獭的好消息真棒。  
- 是的，  
- It's great to hear a good news story about otters.  
- That's right,  

421  
00:25:04,600 --> 00:25:05,880  
你可能知道，  
and as you probably know,  

422  
00:25:05,880 --> 00:25:09,760  
水獭在20世纪曾急剧减少，  
otters went into a drastic decline in the 20th century,  

423  
00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:12,160  
但现在似乎正在恢复，  
but they seem to be bouncing back now,  

424  
00:25:12,160 --> 00:25:16,000  
- 这肯定与污染减少有关。  
- 明白了。  
- and that's definitely associated with a decreasing pollution.  
- OK.  

425  
00:25:16,000 --> 00:25:18,800  
克莱德湾的水质  
And the Clyde, the Firth of Clyde is definitely  

426  
00:25:18,800 --> 00:25:22,120  
比以前干净多了，这对水獭是好消息。  
a lot cleaner than it was, which is good news for otters.  

427  
00:25:23,320 --> 00:25:26,840  
对水獭是好消息，对阿伦岛也是好消息。  
Good news for otters and good news for Arran.  

428  
00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:30,320  
哦，你...  
Oh, you...  

429  
00:25:32,680 --> 00:25:35,320  
但任何去过苏格兰的游客都会告诉你，  
'But as any tourist to Scotland will tell you,  

430  
00:25:35,320 --> 00:25:39,120  
有一种苏格兰生物你绝对想避开。  
'there's one Scottish creature you really want to avoid.'  

431  
00:25:39,120 --> 00:25:40,320  
呃！  
Urgh!  

432  
00:25:40,320 --> 00:25:41,560  
啊！  
Ah!  

433  
00:25:41,560 --> 00:25:45,480  
至少可以说，我一直觉得奇怪的是，  
Now it's often struck me as mysterious, to say the least,  

434  
00:25:45,480 --> 00:25:47,720  
可怕的蠓虫——呼！——  
that the dreaded midge - phew! -  

435  
00:25:47,720 --> 00:25:50,320  
从未在《布莱克指南》  
never gets a mention in Black's  

436  
00:25:50,320 --> 00:25:55,080  
或其他我读过的指南和期刊中被提及。  
or any of the other guidebooks and journals that I've read.  

437  
00:25:55,080 --> 00:25:56,560  
这是为什么？  
Now, why is this?  

438  
00:25:56,560 --> 00:25:58,800  
那时的蠓虫比较少吗？  
Were there fewer midges in those days?  

439  
00:25:58,800 --> 00:26:03,560  
今天困扰我们的蠓虫是全球变暖的结果吗？  
Are the ones that plague us today the result of global warming?  

440  
00:26:03,560 --> 00:26:05,480  
没人能告诉我答案，  
Well, no-one can tell me,  

441  
00:26:05,480 --> 00:26:09,800  
但我个人怀疑这是一种沉默的共谋。  
but personally, I suspect a conspiracy of silence.  

442  
00:26:09,800 --> 00:26:12,640  
即使是现代旅游资料也对  
Even modern tourist literature is silent  

443  
00:26:12,640 --> 00:26:15,520  
这些可怕的小生物保持沉默。  
on the subject of these horrible little beasts.  

444  
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:19,680  
难怪。我们不想吓跑游客，对吧？  
And no wonder. We don't want to put off the tourists, do we?  

445  
00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:22,800  
高地蠓虫以苏格兰最凶猛的  
The Highland Midge has a reputation  

446  
00:26:22,800 --> 00:26:25,760  
吸血昆虫之一而闻名，  
for being one of the most ferocious biting insects  

447  
00:26:25,760 --> 00:26:28,880  
即使不是全世界最凶猛的。  
in Scotland, if not the world.  

448  
00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:32,520  
我好像有蠓虫钻进了这个网里。  
I actually seem to have midges inside this net.  

449  
00:26:32,520 --> 00:26:34,800  
它们是怎么进去的？  
And how did they get in there?  

450  
00:26:34,800 --> 00:26:37,880  
实际上是雌蠓虫会叮咬——  
'It's actually the female midge that does the biting -  

451  
00:26:37,880 --> 00:26:39,200  
毫不意外——  
'no surprise there -  

452  
00:26:39,200 --> 00:26:43,160  
它们会让夏季变得相当难受。  
'and they can make the summer months pretty unpleasant.'  

453  
00:26:44,520 --> 00:26:48,280  
据说不会在有风时飞。但这些蠓虫会。  
Not supposed to fly in wind. And these ones do.  

454  
00:26:48,280 --> 00:26:52,520  
避免被叮咬的最好方法就是遮盖身体，  
'The best way to avoid being bitten is simply to cover up,  

455  
00:26:52,520 --> 00:26:56,440  
这使得我的最终目的地更加出人意料。  
'which makes my final destination all the more surprising.  

456  
00:26:57,920 --> 00:27:00,000  
为了结束我的阿伦岛之旅，  
'To finish off my tour of Arran,  

457  
00:27:00,000 --> 00:27:02,080  
我前往克利茨海岸，  
'I'm heading for Cleat's Shore,  

458  
00:27:02,080 --> 00:27:05,840  
这片海滩吸引着一种非常不同的度假者，  
'a beach which attracts a very different type of holidaymaker,  

459  
00:27:05,840 --> 00:27:10,080  
在《布莱克》的时代肯定会遭到非议。  
'and one who would certainly have been frowned upon in Black's day.  

460  
00:27:16,520 --> 00:27:17,680  
信不信由你，  
'Believe it or not,  

461  
00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:23,000  
阿伦岛拥有苏格兰唯一官方认可的天体海滩。  
'Arran is home to Scotland's only official nudist beach.  

462  
00:27:26,120 --> 00:27:29,760  
欧洲人自20世纪初以来就乐于脱去衣物，  
'Europeans have been happily casting aside their clothing  

463  
00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:32,560  
以健康生活和锻炼为名。  
'in the name of healthy living and exercise  

464  
00:27:32,560 --> 00:27:35,240  
'since the start of the 20th century.  

465  
00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:43,400  
但直到1920年代，英国的自然主义才蓬勃发展，  
'But it wasn't until the 1920s that British naturism flourished,  

466  
00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:46,720  
并形成了自己的生活哲学。  
'complete with its own philosophy of life.  

467  
00:27:52,200 --> 00:27:54,840  
英国第一个官方天体海滩  
'The first official nudist beach in Britain  

468  
00:27:54,840 --> 00:27:59,160  
于1978年在英格兰南海岸开放。  
'opened on the south coast of England in 1978.  

469  
00:27:59,160 --> 00:28:02,520  
虽然随后又开放了几个，  
'Although this was followed by several more,  

470  
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:05,040  
但苏格兰只有一个。  
'there is only one in Scotland.  

471  
00:28:06,680 --> 00:28:07,960  
我想知道为什么。  
'I wonder why.'  

472  
00:28:13,920 --> 00:28:17,320  
这太奇怪了。非常反常。  
This is most strange. It's very peculiar.  

473  
00:28:17,320 --> 00:28:20,080  
我穿过几片田野沿着小路走来，  
I followed the track through a couple of fields,  

474  
00:28:20,080 --> 00:28:21,920  
来到海滩。  
I've come down to the beach.  

475  
00:28:21,920 --> 00:28:24,560  
但如你所见，这里完全空无一人！  
But as you can see, the place is utterly deserted!  

476  
00:28:24,560 --> 00:28:30,080  
除了我自己，没有任何粉色的肌肤展示。  
There's no pink flesh on display at all, apart from my own.  

477  
00:28:30,080 --> 00:28:32,520  
既然已经走到这一步，  
Now, having come this far,  

478  
00:28:32,520 --> 00:28:36,240  
我觉得不面对挑战、不尝试一下  
I think it would be a mistake for me not to face the challenge  

479  
00:28:36,240 --> 00:28:38,360  
将是个错误。  
and take the plunge.  

480  
00:28:38,360 --> 00:28:40,960  
准备好！开始了！  
Brace yourself! Here we go!  

481  
00:28:40,960 --> 00:28:43,160  
哦！哦！嘶！  
Oh! Oh! Brrr!  

482  
00:28:45,160 --> 00:28:48,480  
请继续关注我的下一次盛大之旅，  
Join me on my next Grand Tour,  

483  
00:28:48,480 --> 00:28:52,960  
我将前往西南部，探索我的女性一面。  
when I'm heading to the south-west to discover my feminine side.  

484  
00:28:56,440 --> 00:28:58,440  
好的，开始...  
Right, OK...  

485  
00:29:03,040 --> 00:29:05,120  
字幕由Red Bee Media Ltd提供  
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd  

486  
00:29:05,120 --> 00:29:07,840  
一，二，三...  
One, two, three...