1 00:00:02,640 --> 00:00:05,760 苏格兰西海岸的阿盖尔。 Argyll on the west coast of Scotland. 2 00:00:05,760 --> 00:00:10,200 这片由山脉、岛屿和狭长海湾组成的古老地貌， This ancient landscape of mountains, islands and long sea lochs 3 00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:13,240 曾是苏格兰民族的摇篮。 was once the cradle of the Scottish nation. 4 00:00:13,240 --> 00:00:16,280 这里也是过去两百年来， It's also a place that's inspired visitors and tourists 5 00:00:16,280 --> 00:00:18,960 让游客和旅人灵感迸发之地， for the last 200 years, 6 00:00:18,960 --> 00:00:21,600 无与伦比的风景 drawn here by the incomparable scenery 7 00:00:21,600 --> 00:00:26,280 以及两千年神话传说塑造的萦绕心间的氛围，令人心驰神往。 and a haunting atmosphere shaped by 2,000 years of myth and legend. 8 00:00:26,280 --> 00:00:31,040 我常说，若想体验真正的苏格兰， I've always said that if you want to experience the real Scotland, 9 00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:33,560 感受这个国家真正的精神核心， the true spiritual heart of the country, 10 00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:36,040 就该来阿盖尔。 then you should come here to Argyll. 11 00:00:36,040 --> 00:00:38,640 即便在今日这般阴风怒号的日子， And even on a grey, windy day like today, 12 00:00:38,640 --> 00:00:41,600 此地仍自有其魔力。 this place has a magic all of its own. 13 00:00:41,600 --> 00:00:46,000 不过这话由我来说难免偏颇——这里是我的成长之地。 But then I would say that, wouldn't I? This is where I grew up. 14 00:00:47,200 --> 00:00:50,840 童年时，苏格兰于我始终神秘， As a child, Scotland remained a mystery to me 15 00:00:50,840 --> 00:00:52,760 直到父亲重新发现 until my father rediscovered 16 00:00:52,760 --> 00:00:56,240 一本古老的《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》。 an old copy of Black's Picturesque Guide To Scotland. 17 00:00:57,440 --> 00:01:00,080 这本指南在我家传承数代， It had been in my family for generations 18 00:01:00,080 --> 00:01:04,600 在维多利亚时代是最具影响力的旅游指南。 and, in Victorian times, was the most influential tourist guide book of all. 19 00:01:06,240 --> 00:01:11,800 受《布莱克指南》路线启发，父亲带我们走遍全国， Inspired by the route suggested by Black's, my father took us all over the country, 20 00:01:11,800 --> 00:01:15,560 探寻苏格兰的秘境。 searching for Scotland's special places. 21 00:01:15,560 --> 00:01:17,600 如今四十年过去， Now, four decades on, 22 00:01:17,600 --> 00:01:20,160 我再次让《布莱克指南》引领方向， I'm letting the pages of Black's guide me again, 23 00:01:20,160 --> 00:01:23,160 追随早期旅行者的足迹。 as I follow in the footsteps of the early tourists. 24 00:01:23,160 --> 00:01:25,200 在这趟盛大旅程中， On my grand tour, 25 00:01:25,200 --> 00:01:28,240 我还将发现早期旅行作家的作品， I'll also discover the works of some early travel writers 26 00:01:28,240 --> 00:01:31,880 他们曾为寻找苏格兰真谛而来。 who came in search of the true spirit of Scotland. 27 00:01:44,080 --> 00:01:48,720 我的旅程始于克莱德湾以北的考瓦尔， My grand tour begins just north of the Firth of Clyde in Cowal 28 00:01:48,720 --> 00:01:52,080 沿着已被遗忘的蒸汽船航线网络， and follows a network of now-forgotten steamer routes 29 00:01:52,080 --> 00:01:56,400 穿行于海湾之间，最终抵达传奇的艾莱岛—— from loch to loch, finally reaching the fabled island of Islay - 30 00:01:56,400 --> 00:01:58,600 西方的威士忌之都。 the whisky capital of the west. 31 00:02:01,720 --> 00:02:03,160 这里是埃克湖。 This is Loch Eck. 32 00:02:04,360 --> 00:02:06,480 据《布莱克指南》记载， According to Black's guide, 33 00:02:06,480 --> 00:02:09,440 "埃克湖是座令人愉悦的袖珍湖泊， "Loch Eck is a very pleasing miniature lake 34 00:02:09,440 --> 00:02:13,760 "掩映在轮廓柔美的苍翠群山之中。 "embosomed in green mountains of graceful and rounded outline. 35 00:02:13,760 --> 00:02:16,480 "它仿佛温柔栖息 "Soft it seems to lie and tenderly protected 36 00:02:16,480 --> 00:02:20,040 "在考瓦尔的青山环抱之间。" "amongst the green hills of Cowal." 37 00:02:20,040 --> 00:02:25,000 怀着冒险精神，我正亲自掌舵独木舟——正如俗语所说。 In the spirit of adventure, I'm handling my own canoe, as they say. 38 00:02:25,000 --> 00:02:29,960 这是艘精美的复刻版罗布·罗伊独木舟， In this case, a beautiful replica of the original Rob Roy canoe 39 00:02:29,960 --> 00:02:32,120 原型制造于1890年代。 built in the 1890s. 40 00:02:34,920 --> 00:02:37,960 '虽然《布莱克指南》并未提及 'Although Black's guide book doesn't have anything to say 41 00:02:37,960 --> 00:02:39,920 '划独木舟这项消遣， 'about canoeing as a pastime, 42 00:02:39,920 --> 00:02:42,880 '但越来越多的维多利亚时代绅士 'increasing numbers of Victorian gentlemen 43 00:02:42,880 --> 00:02:47,160 '被一位苏格兰独木舟勇士的冒险故事所激励。' 'were inspired by the daring adventures of a canoeing Scot.' 44 00:02:47,160 --> 00:02:52,120 约翰·麦格雷戈，休闲独木舟"罗布·罗伊号"的发明者。 John MacGregor, inventor of the Rob Roy leisure canoe. 45 00:02:52,120 --> 00:02:56,280 年轻时，约翰·麦格雷戈曾游历加拿大荒野， As a young man, John MacGregor had travelled in the wilds of Canada 46 00:02:56,280 --> 00:03:00,120 当地原住民的独木舟令他深受启发。 and was inspired by the Native American canoes he saw there. 47 00:03:00,120 --> 00:03:03,360 回到苏格兰后，他决定亲手打造一艘， When he got back to Scotland, he decided to build his own 48 00:03:03,360 --> 00:03:09,800 并以显赫的麦格雷戈祖先之名命名为"罗布·罗伊"。 and named it Rob Roy in honour of his illustrious MacGregor ancestors. 49 00:03:11,000 --> 00:03:15,080 他将旅行经历写成惊险故事《罗布·罗伊独木舟千里行》： He wrote about his travels in a ripping yarn called 50 00:03:15,080 --> 00:03:17,600 A Thousand Miles In The Rob Roy Canoe. 51 00:03:18,600 --> 00:03:23,480 "补给完毕后，我撑船驶入潮水， "After taking on supplies, I shoved off into the tide, 52 00:03:23,480 --> 00:03:27,320 "点燃雪茄，感觉旅程真正开始了。 "lit a cigar and felt I had really started. 53 00:03:27,320 --> 00:03:30,280 "但随后涌起一种奇异的自由与新奇感。 "But then began a strange feeling of freedom and novelty. 54 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:34,400 "我乘坐的独木舟既可划桨又可扬帆， "I was in a canoe which could be paddled or sailed 55 00:03:34,400 --> 00:03:37,440 "只要我愿意，能去罗马或香港。" "to Rome or Hong Kong if I liked." 56 00:03:37,440 --> 00:03:40,920 啊，开阔水域的自由！ Ah, the freedom of the open water! 57 00:03:40,920 --> 00:03:43,240 '杰出的约翰·麦格雷戈 'The illustrious John MacGregor 58 00:03:43,240 --> 00:03:46,120 '对独木舟运动见解颇多， 'had much to say on the subject of canoeing, 59 00:03:46,120 --> 00:03:50,520 '包括给划桨新手的着装建议。' 'including tips on the best attire for the budding paddler.' 60 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:54,320 他建议绅士们穿着法兰绒诺福克夹克、 For the gentleman, he recommends a flannel Norfolk jacket, 61 00:03:54,320 --> 00:03:56,920 法兰绒衬衫和草帽， flannel shirt and a straw hat, 62 00:03:56,920 --> 00:04:00,680 并称草帽是划船的最佳选择。 which he says is the best of all for boating. 63 00:04:01,840 --> 00:04:05,000 '我紧按头上的帽子， 'With my own hat firmly clamped over my ears, 64 00:04:05,000 --> 00:04:08,600 '要探索这些幽静水道，没有比 'there can be no better way of exploring these secluded waterways 65 00:04:08,600 --> 00:04:13,560 '划着麦格雷戈先生的著名独木舟更好的方式了。' 'than by paddling one of Mr MacGregor's famous canoes.' 66 00:04:13,560 --> 00:04:16,160 我在埃克湖畔长大， I grew up close to the shores of Loch Eck, 67 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,200 难免有些偏爱， so I'm naturally a wee bit biased, 68 00:04:18,200 --> 00:04:22,360 但对我而言，这绝对是苏格兰境内 but for me this has to be one of the prettiest stretches of water 69 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:24,640 最秀美的水域之一。 to be found anywhere in Scotland. 70 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:30,520 '儿时的我并不知道埃克湖 'When I was a boy, I didn't realise the role 71 00:04:30,520 --> 00:04:33,920 '曾在苏格兰旅游业发展中扮演的角色。' 'that Loch Eck once played in the development of Scottish tourism.' 72 00:04:33,920 --> 00:04:39,960 1827年，天才先驱船舶工程师大卫·内皮尔 In 1827, the genius and pioneering marine engineer David Napier 73 00:04:39,960 --> 00:04:43,400 建造了世界上首批铁船之一， built one of the world's first iron ships 74 00:04:43,400 --> 00:04:46,560 用于在埃克湖平静水域运送游客。 to carry tourists on the sheltered waters of Loch Eck. 75 00:04:47,760 --> 00:04:50,560 内皮尔是真正的创新者。 Napier was a real innovator. 76 00:04:50,560 --> 00:04:54,640 他想开辟从克莱德河到赫布里底群岛的新航线， He wanted to open up a new route from the Clyde to the Hebrides 77 00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:56,440 将埃克湖视为捷径。 and saw Loch Eck as a shortcut. 78 00:04:57,680 --> 00:05:02,240 内皮尔建造了酒店、码头、船只甚至蒸汽马车， Napier built hotels, piers, boats and even a steam carriage 79 00:05:02,240 --> 00:05:04,760 在陆路段运送乘客， to carry his passengers on overland sections 80 00:05:04,760 --> 00:05:07,960 这条线路后来成为著名的"埃克湖航线"。 of what became known as the famous Loch Eck route. 81 00:05:10,200 --> 00:05:12,000 '时过境迁。 'Changed days. 82 00:05:12,000 --> 00:05:16,600 '内皮尔的梦想如今只剩几处腐朽的木码头。' 'All that's left of Napier's dream are a few rotting wooden piers.' 83 00:05:18,240 --> 00:05:20,200 埃克湖航线终究不敌 The Loch Eck route could never compete 84 00:05:20,200 --> 00:05:21,880 克莱德河上蒸汽船 with the bulk of tourist traffic 85 00:05:21,880 --> 00:05:25,200 运送的主流游客流量， using steamers on the Clyde as a way out to the west 86 00:05:25,200 --> 00:05:29,760 可悲的是，内皮尔的船只被拖上岸遗弃， and, sadly, Napier's boats were hauled ashore and abandoned to the elements 87 00:05:29,760 --> 00:05:33,880 埃克湖上已有七十多年未见蒸汽船踪影。 and there hasn't been a steamer on Loch Eck for over 70 years. 88 00:05:37,320 --> 00:05:39,080 下一段旅程， For the next leg of my journey, 89 00:05:39,080 --> 00:05:42,000 我沿着内皮尔的埃克湖航线向北， I follow Napier's Loch Eck route northwards, 90 00:05:42,000 --> 00:05:44,600 最终抵达出海口， finally emerging at the sea 91 00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:47,600 进入美丽的法恩湾。 and into lovely Loch Fyne. 92 00:05:47,600 --> 00:05:50,440 尽管冒险家约翰·麦格雷戈 Although the adventurous Scot John MacGregor 93 00:05:50,440 --> 00:05:53,960 是首位将独木舟（或该称皮划艇）运动 was the first to bring canoeing, or should I say kayaking, 94 00:05:53,960 --> 00:05:55,680 引入公众视野的人， to public attention, 95 00:05:55,680 --> 00:05:58,400 这项运动仍沉寂数十年。 the sport remained in the doldrums for decades. 96 00:05:58,400 --> 00:06:02,640 直到1936年，两位理想主义的苏格兰人 But then, in 1936, a couple of idealistic Scotsmen 97 00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:06,000 重新发现亲自划独木舟的乐趣， rediscovered the delights of paddling your own canoe 98 00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:09,560 他们开启了一次大胆旅程 for themselves when they embarked on a daring trip 99 00:06:09,560 --> 00:06:13,240 探寻苏格兰的真正精神。 to discover the true spirit of Scotland. 100 00:06:14,800 --> 00:06:17,760 阿拉斯泰尔·邓尼特和他的朋友詹姆斯·亚当， Alastair Dunnett and his friend James Adam, 101 00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:19,320 又名谢默斯， otherwise known as Seumas, 102 00:06:19,320 --> 00:06:21,240 两人刚成年不久 were barely out of their teens 103 00:06:21,240 --> 00:06:23,640 就踏上了伟大征程 when they embarked on their great expedition 104 00:06:23,640 --> 00:06:27,120 被世人称为"独木舟男孩"。 and became known to the world as the Canoe Boys. 105 00:06:28,640 --> 00:06:30,640 身着苏格兰短裙、满腔热忱的 Clad in kilts and as keen as mustard, 106 00:06:30,640 --> 00:06:33,760 阿拉斯泰尔和谢默斯开启了为期11周的冒险 Alastair and Seumas set off on their eleven-week adventure 107 00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:37,360 从克莱德河划艇至斯凯岛。 kayaking from the Clyde to the Isle of Skye. 108 00:06:40,000 --> 00:06:43,440 他们的冒险堪称少年探险典范 Theirs was a boys' own adventure par excellence 109 00:06:43,440 --> 00:06:48,120 为深入了解，我随皮划艇专家邓肯·温宁 and, to find out more, I've joined kayaking expert Duncan Winning 110 00:06:48,120 --> 00:06:51,040 重走"独木舟男孩"原始路线的一小段， on a short section of the Canoe Boys' original route, 111 00:06:51,040 --> 00:06:53,000 在法恩湾一处小湾靠岸。 coming ashore in a bay on Loch Fyne. 112 00:06:54,720 --> 00:06:58,000 邓肯，"独木舟男孩"已成传奇。 Duncan, the Canoe Boys have become legendary. 113 00:06:58,000 --> 00:07:00,160 他们是谁？初衷是什么？ Who were they and what were they trying to do? 114 00:07:00,160 --> 00:07:03,160 他们是两位年轻记者 Well, they were a couple of young journalists 115 00:07:03,160 --> 00:07:05,000 主要想实现两个目标 and they were trying to, er... 116 00:07:05,000 --> 00:07:06,880 我认为主要是两件事。 do two things I think, mainly. 117 00:07:06,880 --> 00:07:11,840 一是运营名为《克莱莫》的少年杂志， One was trying to run a magazine for boys called The Claymore, 118 00:07:11,840 --> 00:07:15,360 鼓励苏格兰青年走向户外 to encourage the youth of Scotland in the great outdoors 119 00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:19,120 发现身边可体验的精彩。 and the things that were available for them to do on their doorstep. 120 00:07:19,120 --> 00:07:22,200 另一目标是通过旅程 And one of the, er...the other things they were trying to do 121 00:07:22,200 --> 00:07:23,720 推动复苏 through their trip 122 00:07:23,720 --> 00:07:26,600 他们热切希望促进 was they were very keen in promoting 123 00:07:26,600 --> 00:07:29,880 群岛与高地地区的 a revival in the economic activity 124 00:07:29,880 --> 00:07:33,320 经济活动复兴。 in the islands and in the Highlands. 125 00:07:35,440 --> 00:07:38,880 "独木舟男孩"对旅游指南里的苏格兰毫无兴趣。 The Canoe Boys weren't interested in the Scotland of guide books. 126 00:07:38,880 --> 00:07:42,720 他们关注的是现代高地人的困境， They were concerned with the plight of the modern Highlander, 127 00:07:42,720 --> 00:07:44,760 而非浪漫化的形象。 not the romantic image. 128 00:07:44,760 --> 00:07:47,640 但读者对其政治主张兴趣寥寥， But the reading public cared less for their politics 129 00:07:47,640 --> 00:07:50,920 更着迷于这场新奇冒险。 than the novelty of their great adventure. 130 00:07:50,920 --> 00:07:53,680 两个划艇新手勇闯自然、 The excitement of two canoeing novices 131 00:07:53,680 --> 00:07:58,480 乘着螺丝铁丝固定的船只——这故事令人振奋。 braving the elements in boats held together by screws and wire. 132 00:07:58,480 --> 00:08:02,320 没记错的话他们九月启程， I think it was something like September they set off, from memory, 133 00:08:02,320 --> 00:08:04,320 随着沿西海岸北上 and as they progressed up the west coast 134 00:08:04,320 --> 00:08:07,640 天气不断恶化 of course the weather deteriorated and deteriorated 135 00:08:07,640 --> 00:08:12,280 最终在洛哈尔什教区凯尔完成壮举。 and they ended up finishing their epic journey at Kyle of Lochalsh. 136 00:08:12,280 --> 00:08:15,840 在我看来"独木舟男孩"勇气非凡。 It seems to me that the Canoe Boys were pretty brave in what they did. 137 00:08:15,840 --> 00:08:17,680 确实如此。 Er, they were indeed. 138 00:08:17,680 --> 00:08:20,520 相比现代划艇者，他们堪称艰苦卓绝。 Compared to modern canoeists, they roughed it. 139 00:08:20,520 --> 00:08:23,920 忍受了极端恶劣环境。 They put up with a lot of harsh conditions. 140 00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:27,080 他们直接挑战极限。所以... They threw themselves in at the deep end. So, yes, it's... 141 00:08:27,080 --> 00:08:28,680 -字面意义的"深水区"啊 - Almost literally there. - 没错！ - Yes! 142 00:08:28,680 --> 00:08:32,000 这么说吧，换作是我绝不会尝试。 Let's put it this way, I don't think I'd have done what they did. 143 00:08:32,000 --> 00:08:33,760 我也绝对做不到！ Don't think I would have, either! 144 00:08:36,760 --> 00:08:38,840 告别返程的邓肯后， Leaving Duncan to paddle home, 145 00:08:38,840 --> 00:08:42,320 我横渡法恩湾前往因弗雷里—— I make my watery way across Loch Fyne to Inverary, 146 00:08:42,320 --> 00:08:45,080 阿盖尔的高地首府。 the Highland capital of Argyll. 147 00:08:47,520 --> 00:08:49,200 《布莱克指南》记载： According to Black's, 148 00:08:49,200 --> 00:08:52,320 "此地景致绝美。 "Its situation is exceedingly beautiful. 149 00:08:52,320 --> 00:08:54,960 "自然如此壮阔恢弘， "Here nature is so vast and grand 150 00:08:54,960 --> 00:08:58,320 "人工造物在其威严前相形见绌。" "that works of art diminish in her awful presence." 151 00:09:00,840 --> 00:09:04,320 并非只有《布莱克》盛赞因弗雷里。 Black's was not alone in admiring Inveraray. 152 00:09:04,320 --> 00:09:08,600 著名哲学家埃德蒙·伯克认为此地的 The eminent philosopher Edmund Burke considered the landscape here 153 00:09:08,600 --> 00:09:11,480 景观堪称崇高之美的典范。 to represent the quintessence of sublime beauty. 154 00:09:11,480 --> 00:09:14,040 '他认为这里的风景震撼人心。' 'He thought the scenery was stunning.' 155 00:09:15,200 --> 00:09:17,640 艺术家特纳亦如此， So too did the artist Turner, 156 00:09:17,640 --> 00:09:20,640 用水彩捕捉了此地的魔力， who captured the magic of the scene in watercolours 157 00:09:20,640 --> 00:09:25,280 1796年，早期旅行作家莎拉·穆雷 and in 1796 the early travel writer Sarah Murray 158 00:09:25,280 --> 00:09:30,360 称因弗雷里是"苏格兰最壮丽之地"。 considered Inveraray to be, "The noblest place in Scotland." 159 00:09:30,360 --> 00:09:33,760 尽管她对糟糕天气颇为沮丧！ Although she was dismayed by the miserable weather! 160 00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:37,320 作为阿盖尔公爵坎贝尔家族的宅邸， Inveraray Castle, home to the Campbell Dukes of Argyll, 161 00:09:37,320 --> 00:09:40,800 因弗雷里城堡近两百年来一直吸引游客。 has been attracting tourists for almost 200 years. 162 00:09:40,800 --> 00:09:44,200 事实上，这是《布莱克》的首推景点—— In fact, it's Black's number one recommendation - 163 00:09:44,200 --> 00:09:47,720 尽管我得说这本老指南的措辞 although I have to say the tone adopted by my old guide 164 00:09:47,720 --> 00:09:49,960 略显谄媚。 is a bit obsequious. 165 00:09:49,960 --> 00:09:53,000 甚至有些卑躬屈膝。比如这里写道： In fact, a bit grovelling. For example, it says here, 166 00:09:53,000 --> 00:09:55,720 "通往城堡的庭园 "The castle is reached through the grounds which, 167 00:09:55,720 --> 00:09:59,400 "承蒙贵族主人慷慨，向公众开放。" "by the liberality of the noble proprietor, are open to the public." 168 00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:06,440 但并非所有访客都敬畏这座公爵府邸。 But not all visitors were overawed by the Ducal pile. 169 00:10:06,440 --> 00:10:09,720 1787年，诗人罗伯特·彭斯造访此地 In 1787, the poet Robert Burns visited the town 170 00:10:09,720 --> 00:10:14,160 尖锐地写下目睹的社会鸿沟。 and wrote pointedly about the social divisions he found here. 171 00:10:14,160 --> 00:10:17,400 "无论何人暂居此方 "Who e'er he be who sojourns here 172 00:10:17,400 --> 00:10:19,800 "我深悯其境况 "I pity much his case 173 00:10:19,800 --> 00:10:22,320 "除非是为侍奉 "Unless he's come to wait upon 174 00:10:22,320 --> 00:10:25,840 "爵爷——他们尊崇的恩主。" "The Lord, their God, His Grace." 175 00:10:25,840 --> 00:10:29,720 几年后，诗人威廉·华兹华斯与妹妹多萝西 A few years later, the poet William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy 176 00:10:29,720 --> 00:10:32,280 高地之旅途经小镇 visited the town on their Highland tour 177 00:10:32,280 --> 00:10:34,000 同样目睹了 and they, too, saw the contrast 178 00:10:34,000 --> 00:10:36,560 城堡中公爵的富贵 between the wealth of the Duke in his castle 179 00:10:36,560 --> 00:10:39,040 与街头贫苦的对比。 and the poverty in the streets. 180 00:10:40,800 --> 00:10:42,440 "我们穿行镇中 "We passed through the town 181 00:10:42,440 --> 00:10:46,400 "满目苏格兰式肮脏令人哀伤 "which is a doleful example of Scotch filth. 182 00:10:46,400 --> 00:10:48,720 "阴郁景象 "A melancholy spectacle, 183 00:10:48,720 --> 00:10:52,520 "昭示着堕落或极度贫困。" "giving the notion of either vice or extreme wretchedness." 184 00:10:52,520 --> 00:10:55,120 所幸今日因弗雷里呼啸的街道上 Happily, there's no sign of "Scotch filth" 185 00:10:55,120 --> 00:10:57,720 已不见"苏格兰式肮脏"， on the windy streets of Inveraray today, 186 00:10:57,720 --> 00:11:00,160 处处洁净无瑕 which seems spotlessly clean 187 00:11:00,160 --> 00:11:03,880 居民皆品行端正。 and peopled exclusively by the virtuous. 188 00:11:03,880 --> 00:11:05,840 为深入了解 But to find out more about the gulf 189 00:11:05,840 --> 00:11:08,160 堕落与美德、贫富之间的鸿沟， between vice and virtue, rich and poor, 190 00:11:08,160 --> 00:11:12,560 我来到另一处热门景点——监狱。 I've come to another popular tourist attraction - the jail. 191 00:11:14,320 --> 00:11:17,880 我见到了气势不凡的汉娜·尼克松。 I'm met by the formidable figure of Hannah Nixon. 192 00:11:17,880 --> 00:11:20,320 - 你好汉娜 - 下午好 - 幸会 - Hello, Hannah. - Good afternoon. - Lovely to meet you. 193 00:11:20,320 --> 00:11:22,240 '作为监狱女看守， 'In her role as prison matron, 194 00:11:22,240 --> 00:11:26,080 '汉娜负责向现代游客科普并展示 'it's Hannah's job to educate and entertain modern tourists 195 00:11:26,080 --> 00:11:29,560 '这座曾阴森恐怖的惩戒机构。' 'on visits to this once grim penal institution.' 196 00:11:29,560 --> 00:11:32,440 这是旧监狱。我带您参观牢房 This is the old prison. I'll take you to a cell 197 00:11:32,440 --> 00:11:35,120 展示早期真实状况。 which shows you how it really was in the early days. 198 00:11:35,120 --> 00:11:39,440 - 指1820年刚启用时 - 明白 - You're talking about 1820, when we first opened. - Right. 199 00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:42,760 最初每间牢房关押三四名囚犯。 You would have three, four prisoners in every cell originally. 200 00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:45,320 - 请看这里 - 这么小的空间？ - You can see here this. - In this small space? 201 00:11:45,320 --> 00:11:48,520 - 在这么小的空间里。 - 没错。 - 你知道，就睡在地上。 - In this small space. - Right. - You know, sleeping on the floor. 202 00:11:48,520 --> 00:11:52,320 男人、女人、小孩，还有精神失常的罪犯，全都关在这座监狱里。 Men, women, children, criminally insane, all together in the prison. 203 00:11:52,320 --> 00:11:55,720 这里有个很好的例子，是1820年的一名囚犯。 You've got a good example here of a prisoner that was in in 1820. 204 00:11:55,720 --> 00:11:59,600 他是个有幽默感的囚犯。他在墙上写着： He's a prisoner with a sense of humour. He's written on the wall, 205 00:11:59,600 --> 00:12:03,000 "6月26日有空房出租。 "A room to let to the 26th day of June. 206 00:12:03,000 --> 00:12:05,960 "请向典狱官邓肯·坎贝尔申请。 "Application to be made to Duncan Campbell, jailer. 207 00:12:05,960 --> 00:12:08,000 - "休·柯里永远离开了。" - 没错。 - "Hugh Currie is off forever." - Right. 208 00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:10,360 所以如果你想租间牢房住，他已经不在了。 So if you're wanting a cell to live in, he's off. 209 00:12:10,360 --> 00:12:12,680 只要你提出申请，这间就是你的了。 You can have this if you make the application. 210 00:12:14,480 --> 00:12:18,480 在因弗雷里，角色扮演是现代旅游体验的一部分。 'Role play at Inveraray is part of a modern tourist experience. 211 00:12:18,480 --> 00:12:21,280 '这里不仅有监狱女看守， 'Not only is there a prison matron, 212 00:12:21,280 --> 00:12:23,600 '我马上还要见到一位囚犯。' 'I'm about to meet one of the inmates, too.' 213 00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:26,960 - 另一间牢房和一名囚犯。 - 对，一名囚犯。这是伊丽莎白。 - Another cell and a prisoner. - And a prisoner. This is Elizabeth. 214 00:12:26,960 --> 00:12:29,760 这很好地展示了当时正在推行的改革。 This is a good example of the reforms kicking in now. 215 00:12:29,760 --> 00:12:34,560 1841年，囚犯们不得不忍受的清洁措施，真的。 1841 and the cleanliness prisoners would have to endure, really. 216 00:12:34,560 --> 00:12:38,080 - 是啊。她看起来不太高兴。 - 唉，可惜她长了虱子。 - Right. She doesn't look very happy. - Well, unfortunately she had lice. 217 00:12:38,080 --> 00:12:42,120 她不好好洗澡，所以我们只能采取极端措施。 She wouldn't wash properly, so we have had to go to drastic measures. 218 00:12:42,120 --> 00:12:44,120 希望你别太容易反胃。 I hope you've not got a weak stomach. 219 00:12:44,120 --> 00:12:48,000 - 我有点容易反胃。 - 伊丽莎白，请摘下你的帽子。 - I've a slightly weak one. - Elizabeth, take your bonnet off, please. 220 00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:49,720 我们不得不剃光她的头发。 We have had to shave her head. 221 00:12:49,720 --> 00:12:52,280 如果你不好好洗澡，这就是后果。 If you don't wash properly, this is what will happen. 222 00:12:52,280 --> 00:12:54,480 - 明白了。 - 这是为了给你个教训。清楚了吗？ - Right. - It's to teach you a lesson. All right? 223 00:12:54,480 --> 00:12:56,160 - 表现还好吗？ - 是的，看守长。 - Behaving yourself? - Yes, Matron. 224 00:12:56,160 --> 00:12:58,120 - 她是因为偷窃进来的。 - 她是因为偷窃进来的。 - She's in for theft. - She's in for theft. 225 00:12:58,120 --> 00:12:59,800 你偷了什么？ So what did you steal? 226 00:12:59,800 --> 00:13:03,440 我从邓oon的一家酒店偷了两个银壶，我在那里工作。 I stole two silver jugs from a hotel in Dunoon where I was working. 227 00:13:03,440 --> 00:13:05,880 明白了。判了多久？ Right. And how long did you get? 228 00:13:05,880 --> 00:13:07,920 - 判了两年半，先生。 - 两年半。 - I got 2½ years, sir. - 2½ years. 229 00:13:07,920 --> 00:13:10,600 那就是一个壶判一年零三个月。 So that's one year and three months per jug. 230 00:13:10,600 --> 00:13:14,600 - 是吗，先生？ - 你觉得值得吗？ - 当时觉得值，先生。 - Is it, sir? - Do you think that was worth it? - It was at the time, sir. 231 00:13:14,600 --> 00:13:16,680 '尽管监狱进行了改革， 'Despite prison reforms, 232 00:13:16,680 --> 00:13:21,200 '在维多利亚时代，犯罪仍然受到严厉惩罚。' 'crime was still harshly punished in Victorian times.' 233 00:13:21,200 --> 00:13:26,000 这是苏格兰改革后实施的惩罚措施的一个例子。 So this is an example of punishments set with the Reforms of Scotland. 234 00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:28,440 - 这是鞭刑台。 - 鞭刑台？ - This is the whipping table. - A whipping table? 235 00:13:28,440 --> 00:13:31,320 如果你违反这里的规矩，就会挨鞭子。 So if you disobey our rules here, you will be beaten. 236 00:13:31,320 --> 00:13:34,160 - 现在只对男性使用。男孩也包括在内。 - 男孩？ - Now, it is just for the males. Boys as well. - Boys? 237 00:13:34,160 --> 00:13:36,880 年仅七岁的孩子也会被关进这座监狱。 Children as young as seven would come to this prison. 238 00:13:36,880 --> 00:13:39,920 如果你违反规矩，孩子也可能挨鞭子。 If you disobey our rules, a child may well be beaten. 239 00:13:39,920 --> 00:13:42,680 - 用这个打？ - 对，这是桦条。 - And beaten with this? - Yes, that's the birch. 240 00:13:42,680 --> 00:13:46,360 - 这玩意儿怎么用？ - 最好演示一下，先生。 - So how did this contraption work? - The best way is to demonstrate, sir. 241 00:13:46,360 --> 00:13:49,520 - 我拿着这个，你躺上去吧。 - 好。 - If I take that and you'd like to lie up there. - OK. 242 00:13:49,520 --> 00:13:51,800 - 看起来没什么大不了的。 - 趴着。 - It looks quite innocuous. - On your stomach. 243 00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:54,960 有点像，嗯，按摩床之类的。 It's a bit like a, I don't know, a massage table or something. 244 00:13:54,960 --> 00:13:57,360 感觉可不像按摩，先生。 It won't feel like a massage, sir. 245 00:13:57,360 --> 00:14:00,760 - 我把胳膊伸进去？ - 直接伸进去。 - 好。 - I put my arms through here? - Straight through. - OK. 246 00:14:00,760 --> 00:14:03,600 '在因弗雷里监狱，游客们被鼓励体验 'At Inveraray Jail, visitors are encouraged to sample 247 00:14:03,600 --> 00:14:05,840 '监狱生活中最残酷的一面。 'even the grimmest aspects of prison life. 248 00:14:05,840 --> 00:14:09,120 '这种体验有时可能会让人吃点苦头。' 'The experience can sometimes take quite a beating.' 249 00:14:09,120 --> 00:14:12,160 哎哟！求你了！哎哟！ Ooh! Please! Ooh! 250 00:14:12,160 --> 00:14:15,600 真疼。真疼。 That was painful. That was painful. 251 00:14:15,600 --> 00:14:20,360 呃……有点可笑，但我觉得奇怪的是 Er...slightly risible but I suppose what I find curious 252 00:14:20,360 --> 00:14:23,400 为什么人们度假时会想来监狱。 is why people on holiday want to come to a prison. 253 00:14:23,400 --> 00:14:27,240 你觉得这是一种"苦难旅游"吗？ Is there a kind of misery tourism going on here, do you think? 254 00:14:27,240 --> 00:14:31,480 是的。人们一直对阴森恐怖的东西感兴趣。 There is. People have always been interested in what the macabre. 255 00:14:31,480 --> 00:14:34,200 任何与死亡、酷刑、诅咒有关的东西。 Anything to do with death, torture, damnation. 256 00:14:34,200 --> 00:14:36,920 人们喜欢来体验一下，看看过去是什么样子， People like to come, have a go, see what it was like, 257 00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:39,440 试试我们这里的各种项目。 try all the different things that we have here. 258 00:14:39,440 --> 00:14:43,880 今天，这对他们来说很有趣，但也让他们了解了过去发生的事情。 Today, yes, it is humorous for them, but it does give them an idea of what went on in the past. 259 00:14:43,880 --> 00:14:48,280 '当女看守带我穿过监狱走向自由时， 'As matron leads me back through the prison to freedom, 260 00:14:48,280 --> 00:14:50,880 '她告诉我，在维多利亚时代， 'she tells me that in Victorian times, 261 00:14:50,880 --> 00:14:54,640 '人们会度假时来参观这样的监狱。 'people would go on holiday and visit prisons like this. 262 00:14:54,640 --> 00:14:57,360 '有趣的是，一个世纪后， 'It's amusing to think that a century later, 263 00:14:57,360 --> 00:15:00,960 '现代游客仍在做同样的事情。 'modern tourists are still doing the same thing. 264 00:15:00,960 --> 00:15:03,960 '回到因弗雷里的街道上， 'Back on the streets of Inveraray, 265 00:15:03,960 --> 00:15:07,680 '看起来要下雨了。 'it looks as if were in for a spot of rain. 266 00:15:07,680 --> 00:15:09,840 '在天气变糟之前， 'Before I catch the worst of the weather, 267 00:15:09,840 --> 00:15:14,440 '是时候启程翻越山岭，前往下一个目的地—— 'it's time to move on and over the hills to my next destination - 268 00:15:14,440 --> 00:15:15,600 '奥湖。' 'Loch Awe.' 269 00:15:19,560 --> 00:15:22,960 奥湖是苏格兰最长的淡水湖， Loch Awe is the longest freshwater loch in Scotland 270 00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:24,760 毫无疑问， and is, without question, 271 00:15:24,760 --> 00:15:27,880 无论天气如何，它都是一处绝美的宝藏。 an absolute treasure, whatever the weather. 272 00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:31,960 《布莱克指南》对它赞不绝口，将这片湖泊描述为： Black's is fulsome in its praises, describing the loch as, 273 00:15:31,960 --> 00:15:35,320 "一颗闪闪发光的宝石，绿荫环绕的岛屿 "A glittering jewel with green bowered islands 274 00:15:35,320 --> 00:15:38,240 "依偎在湖泊的怀抱中。" "nestling on the bosom of the lake." 275 00:15:38,240 --> 00:15:39,800 今天可不是这样！ Not today it isn't! 276 00:15:41,520 --> 00:15:45,920 无论晴雨，维多利亚时代的人们很快就看到了 Come rain or shine, the Victorians were quick to see 277 00:15:45,920 --> 00:15:48,640 美丽的奥湖的旅游潜力。 the tourist potential of lovely Loch Awe. 278 00:15:48,640 --> 00:15:52,280 曾经有多达15艘蒸汽船 And at one time, as many as 15 steamers 279 00:15:52,280 --> 00:15:55,160 在林木葱郁的岛屿间航行。 sailed among the wooded islands. 280 00:15:55,160 --> 00:15:56,760 但当然，随着时代进步， But of course progress has meant 281 00:15:56,760 --> 00:15:59,280 这些优雅的小船遭遇了与 these elegant little ships suffered the same fate 282 00:15:59,280 --> 00:16:03,640 苏格兰其他湖泊上几乎所有蒸汽船相同的命运。 as nearly all the other steamers on Scotland's lochs. 283 00:16:03,640 --> 00:16:06,720 它们多年前就被拆解了。 They were scrapped years ago. 284 00:16:06,720 --> 00:16:08,600 蒸汽船或许已经消失， The steamer may have gone 285 00:16:08,600 --> 00:16:12,040 但这里的风景依然如维多利亚时代的游客所见般 but the landscape is just as spectacular and wild 286 00:16:12,040 --> 00:16:14,200 壮丽而原始。 as it was when Victorian tourists 287 00:16:14,200 --> 00:16:17,400 当他们乘船穿梭于湖中岛屿时， were told enthralling legends about the landscape, 288 00:16:17,400 --> 00:16:20,480 导游会向他们讲述关于这片土地的迷人传说。 as they sailed amongst the islands of the loch. 289 00:16:22,360 --> 00:16:25,400 '听到这些穿着苏格兰裙的高地导游 'Hearing these romantic tales told to them 290 00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:27,640 '在这绝美景色中讲述的浪漫故事， 'by their kilted Highland guides, 291 00:16:27,640 --> 00:16:29,320 '维多利亚时代的游客们 'in this wonderful setting, 292 00:16:29,320 --> 00:16:34,080 '感到自己与苏格兰的真正精神如此贴近。' 'made Victorian tourists feel close to the true spirit of Scotland.' 293 00:16:36,800 --> 00:16:42,480 '这里的每一座岛屿、每一处水湾都有自己的故事。 'Here, every island, every inlet and bay, has a tale of its own. 294 00:16:42,480 --> 00:16:45,480 '这些传统将奥湖与史诗般的过去联系在一起。' 'Part of a tradition that connects Loch Awe to an epic past.' 295 00:16:47,640 --> 00:16:50,400 当我沿着湖泊前行时， As I make my way down the loch, 296 00:16:50,400 --> 00:16:53,600 我正穿越两千年的历史， I am passing through 2,000 years of history, 297 00:16:53,600 --> 00:16:56,160 前往这个民族的摇篮。 heading for the cradle of the nation. 298 00:16:58,520 --> 00:17:01,160 这里是基尔马丁谷地。 This is Kilmartin Glen. 299 00:17:01,160 --> 00:17:05,680 我一直觉得阿盖尔的这部分地区有种独特的魔力。 I've always thought that this part of Argyll has a magic of its own. 300 00:17:05,680 --> 00:17:08,400 这里的阳光有种特别的质感， There's something about the quality of light here, 301 00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:10,240 远处岛屿的景色， the distant views to the islands, 302 00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:13,560 漫长的海湾和草木丛生的山坡， the long sea lochs and the roughly wooded hillsides, 303 00:17:13,560 --> 00:17:16,120 都格外富有情调。 that's particularly atmospheric. 304 00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:18,760 这里在苏格兰民族历史上 It's also a place with a special significance 305 00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:21,000 也具有特殊意义。 in the history of the Scottish nation. 306 00:17:24,600 --> 00:17:28,360 基尔马丁谷地聚集了苏格兰最重要的 Kilmartin Glen has one of the most important concentrations 307 00:17:28,360 --> 00:17:32,240 新石器时代和青铜时代遗迹。 of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in Scotland. 308 00:17:32,240 --> 00:17:37,400 短短几英里内就有350多处古迹， Within just a few miles there are over 350 ancient monuments, 309 00:17:37,400 --> 00:17:40,440 使这里成为独特的仪式性景观， making this a unique ceremonial landscape 310 00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:42,480 曾是我们祖先心中的圣地。 that was once sacred to our ancestors. 311 00:17:44,480 --> 00:17:48,520 三千年来，苏格兰这个潮湿的小角落 For 3,000 years this tiny, damp corner of Scotland 312 00:17:48,520 --> 00:17:51,280 一直是不同民族 was an important centre for different people 313 00:17:51,280 --> 00:17:52,840 和不同文化的重要中心， and different cultures, 314 00:17:52,840 --> 00:17:55,840 从石器时代一直到基督教早期， from the Stone Age right up to the early Christian period 315 00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:59,840 这个我们现在称为苏格兰的国家正在形成之时。 when the country we now call Scotland was coming into being. 316 00:17:59,840 --> 00:18:03,800 与这段历史相关的最引人注目 The most striking and significant of all the ancient monuments 317 00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:07,880 也最具意义的古迹就在杜纳德的这里。 associated with this story can be found right here at Dunadd. 318 00:18:09,040 --> 00:18:11,120 现在它看起来可能不起眼， Now, it might not look much 319 00:18:11,120 --> 00:18:15,280 但这座岩石小山正是这个国家故事的起点。 but this small rocky hill is where the story of the nation begins. 320 00:18:15,280 --> 00:18:18,760 这里是苏格兰的摇篮。 This is the cradle of Scotland. 321 00:18:18,760 --> 00:18:24,480 1600年前，这座山顶曾有一座堡垒。 1,600 years ago, a fort stood at the top of this hill. 322 00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:29,640 多年来，这里已成为游客朝圣之地。 Over the years, it's become a place of pilgrimage for tourists. 323 00:18:29,640 --> 00:18:32,840 就是在这块圣石上， And it was up here on a sacred stone 324 00:18:32,840 --> 00:18:36,600 达尔里亚达的国王们被授予王权。 that the Kings of Dal Riada were invested with their royal powers. 325 00:18:38,600 --> 00:18:41,440 据说这一切就发生在这里。 Now, this is where it's all said to have taken place. 326 00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:45,480 这边有个刻在岩石上的脚印， Over here is a stone footprint cut into the rock 327 00:18:45,480 --> 00:18:47,280 根据考古学家的说法， and, according to archaeologists, 328 00:18:47,280 --> 00:18:50,520 即将加冕的国王会将自己的脚放入其中， this is where the King to be would have placed his own foot 329 00:18:50,520 --> 00:18:56,000 这个仪式象征着人类世界与神界的结合。 in a ritual act that symbolised the union of the human world with the divine. 330 00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:58,680 我不是第一个注意到 Now, I'm not the first person to have noticed 331 00:18:58,680 --> 00:19:02,080 这个王者脚印有点...怎么说呢，迷你的人。 that this Kingly footprint is a bit, well, diminutive. 332 00:19:02,080 --> 00:19:05,440 我看这大概只有3码大小。 Now I'd say that was probably a size 3. 333 00:19:08,600 --> 00:19:10,680 从山顶可以理解为什么杜纳德 You can get a sense of why Dunadd 334 00:19:10,680 --> 00:19:14,480 对古代世界如此重要。 was so important to the ancient world from the summit. 335 00:19:14,480 --> 00:19:16,920 它位于一片 It lies at the centre of a landscape 336 00:19:16,920 --> 00:19:19,960 几乎充满神秘气息的景观中心。 that has an almost mystical atmosphere. 337 00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:22,440 在这里你能强烈感受到 Up here you get a powerful feeling 338 00:19:22,440 --> 00:19:26,440 与遥远过去的联系。 of being in touch with the distant past. 339 00:19:26,440 --> 00:19:30,680 因此对我来说，这里可能就是苏格兰的精神核心。 Which is why, for me, this could be the spiritual heart of Scotland. 340 00:19:30,680 --> 00:19:34,880 但还有另一个地方也堪称精神核心， But there is another contender for the title of spiritual heart 341 00:19:34,880 --> 00:19:38,720 要去那里我得乘船前往岛屿。 and to get there I have to sail to the islands. 342 00:19:41,480 --> 00:19:43,400 下一段旅程， On the next leg of my journey, 343 00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:45,480 我将渡海前往艾莱岛—— I'm crossing the sea to Islay - 344 00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:47,280 威士忌的精神家园。 the spiritual home of whisky. 345 00:19:48,920 --> 00:19:52,000 不过这次乘坐的不是定期渡轮。 But this is no scheduled ferry service. 346 00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:56,560 为追溯曾经横跨西海岸的蒸汽船航线， To retrace the old steamer routes that once crossed the west coast, 347 00:19:56,560 --> 00:20:02,160 我登上了桑迪·坎贝尔的现代机动游艇"西部冒险号"。 I joined Sandy Campbell aboard the modern motor cruiser Venture West. 348 00:20:02,160 --> 00:20:04,520 桑迪，你是做什么生意的？ Sandy, what kind of business do you run then? 349 00:20:04,520 --> 00:20:06,560 呃，就是包船业务。 Er, well, just a charter boat business. 350 00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:09,880 送客人去想去的地方，也组织野生动物观赏， Take people where they want to be, along with some wildlife trips 351 00:20:09,880 --> 00:20:12,080 还有去科里弗雷肯漩涡的行程。 and Corryvreckan trips to the whirlpool. 352 00:20:12,080 --> 00:20:15,240 通常...这一带野生动物很丰富。 There's usually...it's quite a good kind of area for wildlife. 353 00:20:15,240 --> 00:20:19,960 有海鸥筑巢...还有很多海豹 There's some seagulls that nest along with...there's a lot of seals 354 00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:22,120 偶尔能看到鼠海豚或海豚。 and porpoise sometimes, or dolphin. 355 00:20:22,120 --> 00:20:25,600 晚些时候还能看到姥鲨和小须鲸。 Later on in the year we have basking shark and a minky whale around. 356 00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:29,080 所以，是的，非常有趣。 So, yeah, it's very interesting. 357 00:20:29,080 --> 00:20:32,480 桑迪的高科技充气艇与那些蒸汽船 Sandy's hi-tech rib is a far cry from the steamers 358 00:20:32,480 --> 00:20:35,040 载着早期少数游客 that carried the few early tourists 359 00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:38,040 冒险来到这偏远之地的年代相去甚远。 who ventured this far off the beaten track. 360 00:20:39,480 --> 00:20:41,360 正如《布莱克指南》所述， As Black's notes, 361 00:20:41,360 --> 00:20:44,160 "西部群岛的交通依靠 "The traffic of the westward isles is maintained 362 00:20:44,160 --> 00:20:46,840 "小型蒸汽船维持。 "by steamers of the smaller class. 363 00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:49,120 "当地人在前甲板聚集， "The natives herding on the foredeck, 364 00:20:49,120 --> 00:20:50,720 "说着盖尔语， "Gaelic their dialect 365 00:20:50,720 --> 00:20:54,040 "禁酒主义在这里几乎无人信奉。" "and teetotalism a creed little believed in." 366 00:20:55,200 --> 00:20:57,400 我觉得很奇怪，我的指南书会 I think it's odd that my guide should make 367 00:20:57,400 --> 00:20:59,760 如此轻蔑地提及普通人 such a sneering reference to the pleasures 368 00:20:59,760 --> 00:21:02,680 从酒精中获得的快乐， that ordinary folk could derive from alcohol 369 00:21:02,680 --> 00:21:04,520 因为在接下来的句子里， because in the very next sentence, 370 00:21:04,520 --> 00:21:06,920 同一位作者又转而称赞艾莱岛 the same writer goes on to praise Islay 371 00:21:06,920 --> 00:21:09,280 出产的威士忌品质上乘。 for the quality of its whisky. 372 00:21:09,280 --> 00:21:11,720 我认为他这里想暗示的是 Now I think what he's trying to imply here 373 00:21:11,720 --> 00:21:16,480 富裕的游客可以享受"生命之水"， is that it's OK for wealthy tourists to enjoy the water of life 374 00:21:16,480 --> 00:21:19,320 但对普通人来说就是堕落。 but for ordinary people, it's degrading. 375 00:21:19,320 --> 00:21:21,840 富人可以是鉴赏家， Wealthy people could be connoisseurs. 376 00:21:21,840 --> 00:21:23,400 穷人只会买醉。 The poor just got drunk. 377 00:21:27,680 --> 00:21:30,640 '当我思考维多利亚游客的矛盾道德观时， 'As I consider the mixed morals of Victorian tourists, 378 00:21:30,640 --> 00:21:33,360 '我享用了一大杯威士忌。 'I enjoy a large glass of whisky. 379 00:21:33,360 --> 00:21:37,320 '庆幸自己是个鉴赏家而非酒鬼。' 'I count myself lucky that I'm a connoisseur and not a lush.' 380 00:21:39,320 --> 00:21:41,040 如今任何来到艾莱岛的人 Anyone arriving in Islay today 381 00:21:41,040 --> 00:21:46,520 都会注意到威士忌持续的重要性。 can't fail to notice the continuing importance of whisky. 382 00:21:46,520 --> 00:21:48,640 每个转角都能看到知名品牌。 Famous names greet you at every turn. 383 00:21:48,640 --> 00:21:51,120 乐加维林、拉弗格、波摩。 Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Bowmore. 384 00:21:51,120 --> 00:21:54,160 这些村庄享誉世界， Villages celebrated the world over 385 00:21:54,160 --> 00:21:56,400 只因出产于此的威士忌。 because of the whisky that comes from them. 386 00:22:00,400 --> 00:22:01,920 这里是波特艾伦。 This is Port Ellen. 387 00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:04,920 1868年，《布莱克指南》热情地写道： In 1868, Black's wrote encouragingly, 388 00:22:04,920 --> 00:22:10,040 "港口上方的旅馆能提供不错的招待。 "A fair entertainment may be had in the inns above the harbour. 389 00:22:10,040 --> 00:22:14,480 "威士忌消费生意兴隆。" "A smart trade going on in the consumption of whisky." 390 00:22:16,760 --> 00:22:19,240 啊！闻闻这味道！ Ah! Just smell that! 391 00:22:19,240 --> 00:22:21,320 这是群岛的特有气息。 That's the tangle of the Isles. 392 00:22:21,320 --> 00:22:25,080 泥煤烟、海藻...的美妙组合。 A wonderful combination of peat smoke, seaweed... 393 00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:28,160 啊！...还有威士忌。 Ah! ..and whisky. 394 00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:34,200 对我来说，uisge beatha——"生命之水"—— For me, uisge beatha - the water of life - 395 00:22:34,200 --> 00:22:36,880 的精神家园就在艾莱岛， has its spiritual home right here on Islay 396 00:22:36,880 --> 00:22:40,720 每年都有成千上万像我这样的人来此朝圣， and I'm just one of thousands making the pilgrimage each year 397 00:22:40,720 --> 00:22:43,960 这座因烈酒而闻名的小岛。 to the island made famous because of its spirit. 398 00:22:45,280 --> 00:22:50,560 我们热爱艾莱威士忌。呃，最喜欢它的泥煤味。 We love the, er, Islay whisky. Er, the peaty taste is our favourite. 399 00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:54,240 有这么多不同种类的威士忌，味道各不相同。 There's so many different whiskies, they all taste different. 400 00:22:54,240 --> 00:22:58,680 了解它们如何酿出不同风味很有趣。 So it's interesting to learn about how they turn out different. 401 00:22:58,680 --> 00:23:01,840 我们认识这款威士忌已有几年， We know this whisky for a few years 402 00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:07,000 但这是我们第一次直接来到艾莱岛。 but it's the first time that we are here on Islay directly. 403 00:23:09,760 --> 00:23:13,360 '为了深入了解威士忌酿造这门神秘艺术， 'To find out more about the arcane magical art of whisky-making, 404 00:23:13,360 --> 00:23:16,880 '我跟随邓肯·麦吉尔夫雷 'I've joined Duncan McGilvery 405 00:23:16,880 --> 00:23:19,640 '参观了布鲁莱迪酒厂。 'on a tour of the Bruichladdich Distillery. 406 00:23:19,640 --> 00:23:25,680 '邓肯告诉我，艾莱岛出现在威士忌鉴赏家的行程中已有一百多年。 'Duncan tells me that Islay has been on the whisky connoisseurs itinerary for well over a hundred years. 407 00:23:25,680 --> 00:23:31,400 '1886年，这座岛屿、它的饮酒习惯和"生命之水"， 'In 1886, the island, its drinking habits and its water of life, 408 00:23:31,400 --> 00:23:34,400 '都被一位名叫阿尔弗雷德·巴纳德的英国人 'were all lovingly and minutely described 409 00:23:34,400 --> 00:23:36,760 '细致而充满感情地描述过。' 'by an Englishman, Alfred Barnard.' 410 00:23:37,960 --> 00:23:41,480 阿尔弗雷德·巴纳德在19世纪末对所有他能找到的 Alfred Barnard did a survey in the late 1800s of all the distilleries 411 00:23:41,480 --> 00:23:44,280 苏格兰、英格兰和威尔士的酒厂进行了调查。 of Scotland and England and Wales, that he could find. 412 00:23:44,280 --> 00:23:46,480 虽然我当时不在场，但... Not that I was around at the time but, er... 413 00:23:46,480 --> 00:23:50,480 他对酒厂的运作进行了非常深入的调查。 it was a very in-depth investigation into what they did. 414 00:23:50,480 --> 00:23:55,680 他的调查结果和结论绝对是无价之宝。 And his result was a survey and the conclusions are absolutely priceless. 415 00:23:55,680 --> 00:24:00,240 那时威士忌鉴赏家很少见，因为人们... In those days it was rare to find a whisky connoisseur because people... 416 00:24:00,240 --> 00:24:03,840 我是说，威士忌只是一种生活方式和赚钱手段。 I mean, whisky was just a way of life and it was a means to make money. 417 00:24:03,840 --> 00:24:07,440 如今，人们对威士忌的了解深入得多， Nowadays, so many people are so much better educated about whisky 418 00:24:07,440 --> 00:24:09,480 艾莱岛的威士忌旅游业 and whisky/tourism on Islay 419 00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:14,360 一定是岛上最大的收入来源之一， must be one of the biggest earners that there is on the island, 420 00:24:14,360 --> 00:24:17,200 与观鸟和自然观光等并列。 along with bird watching and nature, etc. 421 00:24:17,200 --> 00:24:20,000 但威士忌已成为非常重要的旅游产业。 But whisky has become very much a tourist industry. 422 00:24:22,840 --> 00:24:27,040 巴纳德不仅广泛而热情地描写威士忌， Barnard not only wrote extensively and passionately about whisky, 423 00:24:27,040 --> 00:24:30,280 他还是第一个颂扬 he was also the first to celebrate 424 00:24:30,280 --> 00:24:34,760 酒与环境特殊关系的人。 the special relationship between booze and the environment. 425 00:24:34,760 --> 00:24:37,760 巴纳德的书不仅是对威士忌的描述。 Barnard's book isn't just an account of whisky. 426 00:24:37,760 --> 00:24:39,880 实际上，这是一个爱情故事。 It is, in fact, a love story. 427 00:24:39,880 --> 00:24:41,800 讲述一个人对一片土地 The story of a man's infatuation 428 00:24:41,800 --> 00:24:44,160 和一种文化的迷恋， with a landscape and a culture 429 00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:46,840 这片土地孕育了世界顶级的烈酒。 that's produced a world-beating spirit. 430 00:24:50,040 --> 00:24:53,360 为了进一步了解威士忌、旅游业 To find out more about the fruitful marriage between whisky, 431 00:24:53,360 --> 00:24:55,120 和绝美风景之间的完美结合， tourism and fabulous scenery, 432 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,960 我在达菲酒吧与历史学家凯文·詹姆斯会面， I'm meeting up with historian Kevin James at Duffies Bar, 433 00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:03,720 这里有超过250种威士忌可供选择。 which has over 250 brands of whisky to choose from. 434 00:25:03,720 --> 00:25:08,120 '最贵的一杯要250英镑！ 'Apparently, the most expensive dram will set you back £250! 435 00:25:08,120 --> 00:25:10,960 '希望是凯文请客。' 'Let's hope Kevin's buying.' 436 00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:14,080 凯文，巴纳德的书在很多方面都具有开创性， Kevin, Barnard's book was seminal in many ways, was it not, 437 00:25:14,080 --> 00:25:16,680 开启了威士忌旅游业，不是吗？ in kicking off whisky tourism? 438 00:25:16,680 --> 00:25:20,040 他似乎对苏格兰风景情有独钟， He seems to have a special love for Scottish landscape 439 00:25:20,040 --> 00:25:23,600 我认为风景和威士忌之间存在联系。 and there's a connection, I think, between the landscape and whisky. 440 00:25:23,600 --> 00:25:25,200 哦，绝对如此。绝对。 Oh, absolutely. Absolutely. 441 00:25:25,200 --> 00:25:28,320 尤其是赫布里底群岛的风景。 And particularly in the Hebridean landscape. 442 00:25:28,320 --> 00:25:32,280 我觉得他钟情于那种原始粗犷的风景。 I think that he has an affection for the wildness of the landscape. 443 00:25:32,280 --> 00:25:35,320 有些时候他会评论... There are occasions on which he comments on the... 444 00:25:35,320 --> 00:25:39,320 那种近乎...呃...赫布里底群岛的严峻风光， kind of the almost, er...austereness of the Hebridean landscape, 445 00:25:39,320 --> 00:25:41,080 我认为他把这种感受融入了 and I think that he works that into 446 00:25:41,080 --> 00:25:43,600 对麦芽威士忌的整体欣赏中。 his overall appreciation of the malts as well. 447 00:25:43,600 --> 00:25:46,840 我认为这是解读巴纳德著作的一种方式， And I think that's one way of kind of casting Barnard's book, 448 00:25:46,840 --> 00:25:49,880 也是解读整个威士忌旅游现象的方式， and indeed the whole whisky tourism phenomenon, 449 00:25:49,880 --> 00:25:53,480 人们试图透过视觉景观的表象， as people tried to penetrate beyond the visual landscape 450 00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:56,120 通过其他方式深入文化内核。 and get into the culture by other ways. 451 00:25:56,120 --> 00:25:58,480 用其他感官去体验。 Engaging their senses in other ways. 452 00:25:58,480 --> 00:26:01,760 - 还有什么比通过饮酒更好的方式呢？ - 没错。 - And, er, what better way to do it than through drink? - Right. 453 00:26:01,760 --> 00:26:04,560 所以你来艾莱岛不只是为了欣赏风景？ So you didn't just come to Islay to drink in the landscape? 454 00:26:04,560 --> 00:26:07,800 你来艾莱岛，喝一杯，同时欣赏风景。 You came to Islay, had a drink, and saw the landscape at the same time. 455 00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:09,520 或许还能以不同的视角看风景。 And maybe saw it in different ways. 456 00:26:09,520 --> 00:26:12,920 那么你认为，在成为鉴赏家的过程中， Right, so do you think, you know, in becoming connoisseurs, 457 00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:16,160 一些维多利亚时代的人是否觉得他们掌握了某种特殊知识， some Victorians felt that they had a kind of special knowledge, 458 00:26:16,160 --> 00:26:18,520 不仅关于酒本身，还包括文化， not just of the drink but of the culture 459 00:26:18,520 --> 00:26:22,320 而且在某些方面比当地人 and a knowledge, in some ways, that was more sophisticated 460 00:26:22,320 --> 00:26:24,960 对酒的理解更 sophisticated？ than local people's understanding of the drink? 461 00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:26,800 是的。我认为他们可以宣称 Yeah. I think they could assert 462 00:26:26,800 --> 00:26:30,200 自己对文化有更优雅的欣赏， that they had a more tasteful appreciation of the culture 463 00:26:30,200 --> 00:26:33,280 对酒本身也有更优雅的品味。 and a more tasteful appreciation of the drink itself as well. 464 00:26:33,280 --> 00:26:37,200 这很有趣，因为在很多方面，威士忌，uisge beatha， That's really interesting because, in many ways, whisky, uisge beatha, 465 00:26:37,200 --> 00:26:40,600 是一种狂野的酒。它是一种危险的酒，与 is a kind of wild drink. It's a dangerous drink associated with, 466 00:26:40,600 --> 00:26:43,280 你知道，叛乱，詹姆斯党叛乱有关。 you know, rebellion, the Jacobite rebellion. 467 00:26:43,280 --> 00:26:47,120 但维多利亚时代的人和旅游业 somehow 驯服了这种酒， But somehow the Victorians and tourism had tamed this drink, 468 00:26:47,120 --> 00:26:49,000 驯服了苏格兰的精神。 had tamed the spirit of Scotland. 469 00:26:49,000 --> 00:26:54,400 是的。就像驯服了苏格兰农民文化中原始的一面。 It is. It's like taming a primitive aspect of Scottish peasant culture. 470 00:26:54,400 --> 00:26:56,600 这也让游客能够 It's also allowing the tourist 471 00:26:56,600 --> 00:26:59,440 与这种文化保持距离， to distance him or herself from the culture, 472 00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:03,080 同时又能将这种文化的标志之一—— at the same time as taking one of the icons of that culture - 473 00:27:03,080 --> 00:27:04,800 威士忌——一饮而尽。 whisky - and consuming it. 474 00:27:04,800 --> 00:27:08,080 - 好吧，我要来一小杯...干杯！ - 干杯！ - Right, well, I'll have a wee... Slainte! - Slainte! 475 00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:15,840 - 嗯。这不是那杯250英镑的酒。 - 不是。 - Mm. That's not the £250 dram. - It isn't. 476 00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:19,280 - 阿贝，是吗？还不错。 - 还行。凑合喝吧。 - Ardbeg, is it? It's not bad. - It's not bad. It'll do. 477 00:27:21,840 --> 00:27:24,080 带着一瓶最好的单一麦芽—— Armed with a bottle of the finest malt - 478 00:27:24,080 --> 00:27:26,480 不会让我破产的那种—— the one that's not going to break the budget - 479 00:27:26,480 --> 00:27:29,680 我告别凯文，前往海岸。 I leave Kevin and make my way to the coast. 480 00:27:29,680 --> 00:27:31,600 正如我所发现的， As I've found for myself, 481 00:27:31,600 --> 00:27:35,120 苏格兰的精神并不容易被驯服。 the spirit of Scotland is not easily tamed. 482 00:27:35,120 --> 00:27:39,000 但这并不能阻止人们希望发现 But that doesn't deter people from hoping to discover something 483 00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:41,560 能捕捉这个地方精髓的东西。 that captures the essence of the place. 484 00:27:41,560 --> 00:27:43,880 风景、历史和文化。 The landscape, history and culture. 485 00:27:43,880 --> 00:27:45,760 许多人声称在西海岸 Many claim to have found it 486 00:27:45,760 --> 00:27:48,560 湖泊和岛屿的景色中找到了它。 in the views of the lochs and islands of the west coast. 487 00:27:48,560 --> 00:27:51,720 有些人认为它存在于过去， While some believe it lies in the past, 488 00:27:51,720 --> 00:27:56,200 另一些人则认为苏格兰的精神是可以被装瓶的商品。 others think the spirit of Scotland is a commodity that can be bottled. 489 00:27:56,200 --> 00:27:59,040 对我来说，真相介于两者之间。 For me, the truth lies somewhere in between. 490 00:27:59,040 --> 00:28:03,760 当然，威士忌有很多种喝法。 There are lots of different ways you can drink whisky, of course. 491 00:28:03,760 --> 00:28:06,440 有些人加冰——"on the rocks"—— Some people take it with ice - on the rocks - 492 00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:09,120 还有人喜欢加一点点水。 and others like to add a wee drop of water. 493 00:28:09,120 --> 00:28:13,120 还有一些人，天哪，居然兑饮料喝！ And some, heaven forbid, drink it with a mixer! 494 00:28:13,120 --> 00:28:16,680 我个人喜欢纯饮，而且要在户外， Personally, I like to drink it neat and outside, 495 00:28:16,680 --> 00:28:21,760 面对着大西洋，让海风的气息充满鼻腔。 with a view of the Atlantic and the smell of the sea in my nostrils. 496 00:28:21,760 --> 00:28:25,000 即使在今天这样阴冷的日子里， And even on a grey, cold day like today, 497 00:28:25,000 --> 00:28:27,520 我也想不出还有比这更合适的地方 I can think of no more appropriate place 498 00:28:27,520 --> 00:28:31,320 来体验真正的苏格兰精神了。 to experience the true spirit of Scotland. 499 00:28:31,320 --> 00:28:33,320 干杯！ Slainte! 500 00:28:34,920 --> 00:28:37,440 请继续收看我的下一段"壮游"， Join me on my next Grand Tour, 501 00:28:37,440 --> 00:28:39,640 届时我将追寻阳光。 when I go in search of sunshine. 502 00:28:52,600 --> 00:28:56,200 字幕由Red Bee Media Ltd提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 503 00:28:56,200 --> 00:28:59,720 联系我们：subtitling@bbc.co.uk E-mail us at subtitling@bbc.co.uk