1  
00:00:03,680 --> 00:00:07,480  
格兰扁山脉——苏格兰高地花岗岩铸就的心脏，  
The Grampian Mountains - the granite heart of the Highlands,  

2  
00:00:07,480 --> 00:00:11,520  
明信片般的风景里矗立着巍峨群峰，  
a picture postcard landscape of magnificent summits,  

3  
00:00:11,520 --> 00:00:16,280  
清澈奔涌的溪流、幽暗森林与避世湖泊交相辉映。  
clear running rivers, dark forests and sheltered lochs.  

4  
00:00:16,280 --> 00:00:19,840  
所有定义苏格兰度假印象的元素，  
Everything that defines the holiday image of Scotland  

5  
00:00:19,840 --> 00:00:22,680  
都能在这些山峦峡谷间寻得踪迹。  
can be found amongst these hills and glens.  

6  
00:00:22,680 --> 00:00:27,160  
二百五十余年来，游客们不断涌向高地，  
For over 250 years, tourists have been coming to the Highlands  

7  
00:00:27,160 --> 00:00:32,200  
沉醉于这般壮丽景致。然而北行足迹所至，  
to enjoy this spectacular scenery. But on beating a path north,  

8  
00:00:32,200 --> 00:00:37,360  
这些游客却永远改变了他们前来瞻仰的瑰宝——  
these same tourists have help change for ever the very things they came to admire -  

9  
00:00:37,360 --> 00:00:42,200  
文化传承、地貌景观，尤其是自然的原始魅力。  
the culture, the landscape and, above all, the charms of nature.  

10  
00:00:45,160 --> 00:00:47,720  
本系列中，我将重走当年  
In this series, I'm retracing the routes  

11  
00:00:47,720 --> 00:00:51,280  
首批苏格兰游客的旅行路线。  
taken by some of the first tourists to Scotland.  

12  
00:00:51,280 --> 00:00:56,120  
早在1820年，出版商就开始印制旅游指南，  
From as early as 1820, publishers began printing guide books  

13  
00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:59,320  
展示乡野的壮美风光。  
showcasing the glories of the countryside.  

14  
00:00:59,320 --> 00:01:03,600  
《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》是早期代表作，  
Black's Picturesque Guide To Scotland was one of the first,  

15  
00:01:03,600 --> 00:01:06,880  
我家世代珍藏着一册。  
and a copy has been in my family for generations.  

16  
00:01:06,880 --> 00:01:11,000  
童年度假时，它总躺在父亲汽车的  
It was always in the glove compartment of my father's car  

17  
00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:12,600  
手套箱里。  
when we went on holiday.  

18  
00:01:12,600 --> 00:01:16,920  
四十年后的今天，我再次让布莱克指引旅程。  
Now, four decades on, I'm letting Black's guide me again.  

19  
00:01:16,920 --> 00:01:21,520  
这场盛大旅途中，我还将探寻早期旅行作家的作品，  
On my grand tour, I'll also discover the works of some early travel writers  

20  
00:01:21,520 --> 00:01:24,920  
他们为领略自然魅力而来到苏格兰。  
who came to Scotland to appreciate the charms of nature.  

21  
00:01:37,240 --> 00:01:40,120  
我的旅程始于一处幽僻峡谷，  
My journey starts in a sequestered glen,  

22  
00:01:40,120 --> 00:01:43,080  
领略双轮旅行的乐趣，  
discovers the delights of two-wheel travel,  

23  
00:01:43,080 --> 00:01:48,800  
探索苏格兰最大国家公园的野生动植物宝库。  
and uncovers the wildlife riches of Scotland's biggest national park.  

24  
00:01:48,800 --> 00:01:52,520  
这些都是游客蜂拥至高地的充分理由。  
All compelling reasons for tourists to flock to the Highlands.  

25  
00:01:52,520 --> 00:01:56,040  
布莱克写道："对于自然爱好者而言，  
To the admirer of nature, says Black's,  

26  
00:01:56,040 --> 00:02:00,520  
"欧洲再无他处能比苏格兰呈现更多样地貌，  
"No part of Europe affords more varied landscape than Scotland,  

27  
00:02:00,520 --> 00:02:05,880  
"无与伦比的风景吸引无数异国游客  
"whose incomparable scenery induces vast numbers of foreigners  

28  
00:02:05,880 --> 00:02:09,840  
"造访这片闪耀湖泊与健康山脉的土地。"  
"to visit the land of gleaming lakes and healthy mountains."  

29  
00:02:09,840 --> 00:02:16,440  
听来仿佛那时起，山峦间就回荡着游客的喧嚣。  
Sounds to me as if the hills were alive to the sound of tourists even then.  

30  
00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:23,360  
19世纪的景象，如今更甚。  
Now, what was true in the 19th century is even truer today.  

31  
00:02:23,360 --> 00:02:28,240  
某些地方的旅游业几乎达到饱和，  
In fact, in some places, tourism has almost reached saturation point  

32  
00:02:28,240 --> 00:02:33,400  
游客可能正破坏他们慕名而来的珍宝——  
and tourists are in danger of damaging the very thing they came to see -  

33  
00:02:33,400 --> 00:02:36,200  
浑然天成的自然之美。  
nature in all its charming beauty.  

34  
00:02:38,680 --> 00:02:42,280  
这是莱昂峡谷，我的指南书称其为  
This is Glen Lyon, which is described by my guide  

35  
00:02:42,280 --> 00:02:45,920  
"高地最迷人的峡谷之一"。  
as one of the loveliest glens in the Highlands.  

36  
00:02:45,920 --> 00:02:50,160  
为将对环境的影响降至最低，  
To keep my impact on the environment to an absolute minimum,  

37  
00:02:50,160 --> 00:02:53,800  
我选择了恰当的绿色交通工具——  
I've opted for an appropriately green form of transport -  

38  
00:02:53,800 --> 00:02:58,960  
这辆配有铃铛的宏伟汉伯古董自行车。  
- this magnificent old Humber bicycle complete with a bell.  
- [铃铛声]  

39  
00:02:58,960 --> 00:03:03,200  
如何？现在出发。  
How about that? Now I'm off.  

40  
00:03:05,800 --> 00:03:08,920  
系好自行车夹和软帽，  
With bicycle clips and bonnet firmly in place,  

41  
00:03:08,920 --> 00:03:12,320  
我准备尽情享受莱昂峡谷的魅力，  
I'm all set to enjoy the charms of Glen Lyon,  

42  
00:03:12,320 --> 00:03:17,640  
布莱克指南书言之凿凿称其位于苏格兰中心。  
which Black's guide book dubiously claims to be located at the centre of Scotland.  

43  
00:03:17,640 --> 00:03:21,360  
但我必须认同书中对这条路的描述：  
But I have to agree with Black's description of the road I'm taking.  

44  
00:03:21,360 --> 00:03:25,120  
"这条新路揭开了峡谷之美。  
"This new road opens up the beauties of the ravine.  

45  
00:03:25,120 --> 00:03:31,200  
"沿峡谷前行时，透过林木覆盖的河岸，可见溪流  
"As we proceed up the glen, we catch glimpses through the tree-clad banks of the stream,  

46  
00:03:31,200 --> 00:03:34,720  
"时而欢跃于嶙峋礁石间，  
"now leaping sportfully from crag to crag,  

47  
00:03:34,720 --> 00:03:37,640  
"时而沉淀为幽深静潭。"  
"now smoothed in clear black pools."  

48  
00:03:37,640 --> 00:03:42,720  
我理解布莱克为何诗兴大发。太美了。  
I can see why Black's was inspired to verse. It's lovely.  

49  
00:03:45,160 --> 00:03:48,600  
骑行壮丽的莱昂峡谷，  
Cycling down glorious Glen Lyon,  

50  
00:03:48,600 --> 00:03:51,400  
我来到如画的福廷格尔村庄。  
I come to the picturesque village of Fortingall.  

51  
00:03:51,400 --> 00:03:54,960  
茅草屋顶在苏格兰高地腹地  
The thatched roofs strike an odd note of bucolic Englishness  

52  
00:03:54,960 --> 00:03:57,080  
奏响英格兰田园风的奇异音符，  
in the heart of the Scottish Highlands,  

53  
00:03:57,080 --> 00:04:00,840  
但这片佩思郡乡间早有外来者  
but there's been a long history of incomers  

54  
00:04:00,840 --> 00:04:04,000  
定居的悠久历史。  
in this part of rural Perthshire.  

55  
00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:08,000  
"福廷格尔"之名源于盖尔古语，  
In fact, the name Fortingall is derived from an old Gaelic word  

56  
00:04:08,000 --> 00:04:12,280  
意为"异乡人的堡垒"。据当地传说，  
meaning "the fort of the strangers". Accordingly to local legend,  

57  
00:04:12,280 --> 00:04:16,400  
这些异乡人曾是罗马军团的士兵。  
the strangers were once soldiers from the legions of Rome.  

58  
00:04:16,400 --> 00:04:20,560  
若传说属实，则意味着福廷格尔  
If this tale is true, then it would suggest that Fortingall  

59  
00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:24,680  
至少已有两千五百年历史，  
has been on the map for at least 2,500 years or so,  

60  
00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:29,160  
看似难以置信，却有活体证据支撑——  
and incredible as it may seem, there's living proof to back up the story,  

61  
00:04:29,160 --> 00:04:32,240  
就在这片墓园中。  
and you can find it right here in this graveyard.  

62  
00:04:34,560 --> 00:04:36,800  
护林员迈克·斯特拉坎带我  
'Forester Mike Strachan leads me  

63  
00:04:36,800 --> 00:04:41,000  
来到特殊围栏区，我有幸近距离观察  
'to a special enclosure where I'm given privileged access  

64  
00:04:41,000 --> 00:04:45,040  
一棵载入史册的古老紫杉。  
'to a yew tree so ancient that it's in all the record books.  

65  
00:04:45,040 --> 00:04:47,840  
'在庄严树冠下，迈克为我讲述更多。'  
'Beneath its venerable branches, Mike tells me more.'  

66  
00:04:49,320 --> 00:04:52,320  
迈克，这棵神树有多少岁？  
Mike, how old is this amazing tree?  

67  
00:04:52,320 --> 00:04:57,200  
估算从三千到四五千...  
Well, estimates vary from 3,000 to 4,000 to 5,000...  

68  
00:04:57,200 --> 00:04:58,920  
甚至六七八千岁。  
6,000 7,000, 8,000.  

69  
00:04:58,920 --> 00:05:01,280  
但保守估计  
But I think the conservative approach  

70  
00:05:01,280 --> 00:05:03,320  
至少五千年。  
is to give it 5,000 years anyway.  

71  
00:05:03,320 --> 00:05:07,280  
当地考古发现能佐证这点。  
There's a lot of archaeological information locally that would support that.  

72  
00:05:07,280 --> 00:05:10,160  
罗马人来时它已在此？  
So this tree would have been here if the Romans were here?  

73  
00:05:10,160 --> 00:05:12,400  
罗马时代它肯定存在。  
It was definitely here when the Romans were.  

74  
00:05:12,400 --> 00:05:16,160  
人类在此居住至少四千五百年，  
We know that people were living here at least 4,500 years ago,  

75  
00:05:16,160 --> 00:05:18,760  
罗马人是两千年前来的。  
and the Romans were here 2,000 years ago.  

76  
00:05:20,120 --> 00:05:25,040  
早在僧侣一千二百年前修建首座教堂前，  
Long before monks built the first church here 1,200 years ago,  

77  
00:05:25,040 --> 00:05:29,640  
紫杉已是凯尔特异教徒的圣物，因而得以保全。  
the yew tree was scared to pagan Celts, who helped ensure its protection.  

78  
00:05:29,640 --> 00:05:31,720  
他们用其制药。  
They used it for medicinal purposes.  

79  
00:05:31,720 --> 00:05:35,160  
制作长弓和箭矢需要紫杉，苏格兰最古老的长弓  
You needed it for your longbows and arrows, and the oldest piece  

80  
00:05:35,160 --> 00:05:38,640  
距今约六千年。  
of longbow that we know from Scotland is about 6,000 years old.  

81  
00:05:38,640 --> 00:05:40,480  
- 发现于邓弗里斯沼泽。  
- Found in a bog in Dumfries.  
- 哦。  
- Oh.  

82  
00:05:40,480 --> 00:05:42,920  
所以紫杉曾是极其重要的树木。  
So yew has been a very, very important tree.  

83  
00:05:42,920 --> 00:05:47,640  
听说这棵树与基督传说有关？  
I know there's a legend that connects this tree and the story of Christ.  

84  
00:05:47,640 --> 00:05:50,680  
确实如此。  
Well, yes, that's correct.  

85  
00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:56,040  
罗马曾派使者拜访苏格兰国王梅塔拉努斯。  
The Romans sent an emperor here to visit the Scottish king - Metallanus at the time.  

86  
00:05:56,040 --> 00:06:00,920  
那位罗马使节与当地女子暗结连理。  
And the envoy, the Roman envoy, that came was a bit friendly with some of the local women.  

87  
00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:04,600  
她们诞下子嗣，传说就出生在这棵树下。  
They had a child. The child was allegedly born under this tree.  

88  
00:06:04,600 --> 00:06:09,080  
后来返回罗马，那孩子据说是本丢·彼拉多。  
And then they went back to Rome, and that child is allegedly Pontius Pilate.  

89  
00:06:12,320 --> 00:06:16,320  
于是下令将基督钉上十字架的彼拉多，  
So Pontius Pilate, who infamously ordered the crucifixion of Christ,  

90  
00:06:16,320 --> 00:06:20,080  
曾在这棵紫杉的枝桠间嬉戏。  
once played in the branches of this yew tree.  

91  
00:06:20,080 --> 00:06:23,880  
但迈克对这个传说持合理怀疑。  
But Mike is rightly sceptical of the story.  

92  
00:06:23,880 --> 00:06:28,360  
耶稣逝世13年后罗马人才抵达不列颠。  
Jesus died 13 years before the Romans even arrived in Britain.  

93  
00:06:28,360 --> 00:06:30,720  
但有一点毋庸置疑。  
But one thing is true.  

94  
00:06:30,720 --> 00:06:35,440  
数千年来，无数访客留下了痕迹。  
For millennia, countless visitors have taken their toll.  

95  
00:06:35,440 --> 00:06:41,240  
今日游客所见，只是这棵神圣巨树残存的躯壳。  
Today's tourist sees only a shell of this once mighty sacred tree.  

96  
00:06:41,240 --> 00:06:43,960  
过去三百年间，  
There are stories that over the last 300 years,  

97  
00:06:43,960 --> 00:06:49,320  
人们砍伐树枝制作纪念品和家具。  
people have collected souvenirs from the tree and cut bits down, made bits of furniture.  

98  
00:06:49,320 --> 00:06:54,360  
还有万圣节篝火、马车穿行的传说。  
There are talks of Hallowe'en fires and people driving through in coaches and horses.  

99  
00:06:54,360 --> 00:06:58,560  
某种程度上，这棵树可谓  
In some ways, I suppose, you could argue that this tree  

100  
00:06:58,560 --> 00:07:03,520  
旅游业影响环境的早期例证。  
is an early example of the impact of tourism on the environment.

101  
00:07:03,520 --> 00:07:07,800  
确实如此。但就旅游业而言...  
Well, it is, yes, you're quite right. But in terms of tourism...  

102  
00:07:07,800 --> 00:07:13,120  
这棵树已被人们瞻仰了千年、两千年、甚至五千年。  
I mean, this tree has been visited by people for 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 years.  

103  
00:07:13,120 --> 00:07:17,880  
它或许是苏格兰接待游客最久、最多的景点？  
Is this perhaps the most visited and longest visited attraction in Scotland?  

104  
00:07:21,920 --> 00:07:26,160  
重新登车，一路下坡直达阿伯费尔迪——  
Back in the saddle, it's downhill all the way to Aberfeldy,  

105  
00:07:26,160 --> 00:07:30,960  
这座小镇自豪地宣称自己是苏格兰的地理中心。  
a town whose proud boast it is to be the very centre of Scotland.  

106  
00:07:32,720 --> 00:07:35,600  
根据我读过的旅游资料，  
According to some tourist literature that I've read,  

107  
00:07:35,600 --> 00:07:39,040  
阿伯费尔迪作为苏格兰地理中心的说法  
Aberfeldy's claim to be at the geographic centre of Scotland  

108  
00:07:39,040 --> 00:07:44,240  
可用这个道具验证：一张苏格兰剪影地图和一支笔。  
can be demonstrated using this - a cut-out map of Scotland - and a pen.  

109  
00:07:44,240 --> 00:07:48,400  
原理是将地图平衡在笔尖上，  
Now, the idea is that you balance the map on the tip of the pen,  

110  
00:07:48,400 --> 00:07:51,520  
完美平衡时的支点就是  
and the point at which you get a perfect balance  

111  
00:07:51,520 --> 00:07:53,640  
苏格兰的精确地理中心，  
is the exact geographic centre  

112  
00:07:53,640 --> 00:07:59,000  
我估计实际位置可能在阿伯费尔迪  
of Scotland, which I reckon could be anywhere  

113  
00:07:59,000 --> 00:08:03,040  
方圆50英里内。谁知道呢？  
within a 50-mile radius of Aberfeldy. So who knows?  

114  
00:08:05,640 --> 00:08:10,120  
但阿伯费尔迪的声名不仅源于  
But Aberfeldy's fame doesn't merely rest on the dubious claim  

115  
00:08:10,120 --> 00:08:13,600  
"苏格兰最平衡小镇"这个可疑头衔。  
to be the most perfectly balanced town in Scotland.  

116  
00:08:13,600 --> 00:08:17,360  
诗人罗伯特·彭斯的造访才真正让小镇  
It was a visit by the poet Robert Burns that brought the town  

117  
00:08:17,360 --> 00:08:18,640  
闻名于世。  
to public attention.  

118  
00:08:18,640 --> 00:08:21,560  
彭斯为之倾倒——  
Burns was captivated,  

119  
00:08:21,560 --> 00:08:24,840  
这次令他沉醉的不是某位少女的芳泽，  
not as he usually was by the charms of some young lady,  

120  
00:08:24,840 --> 00:08:28,200  
而是小镇上方的森林与瀑布。  
but by the woods and waterfalls lying above the town.  

121  
00:08:28,200 --> 00:08:32,160  
他将此写入诗作《阿伯费尔迪的白桦林》得以不朽。  
And he immortalises this in his poem The Birks O' Aberfeldy.  

122  
00:08:32,160 --> 00:08:36,080  
此后，游客们纷至沓来，  
And ever since, tourists have been making a pilgrimage here  

123  
00:08:36,080 --> 00:08:39,200  
追寻诗人的灵感源泉。  
to see the source of his poetical inspiration.  

124  
00:08:43,120 --> 00:08:46,240  
"山坡如高墙般耸立，  
"The braes ascend like lofty wa's,  

125  
00:08:46,240 --> 00:08:49,280  
"泡沫翻腾的激流轰鸣坠落，  
"The foaming stream, deep-roaring fa's,  

126  
00:08:49,280 --> 00:08:53,240  
"芬芳树丛悬垂掩映，  
"O'er-hung wi' fragrant spreading shaws,  

127  
00:08:53,240 --> 00:08:55,280  
"阿伯费尔迪的白桦林。"  
"The Birks of Aberfeldy."  

128  
00:08:55,280 --> 00:09:00,640  
蹊跷的是，诗中的白桦几乎消失殆尽，  
It's a curious thing, but the birch trees of the poem have almost all gone,  

129  
00:09:00,640 --> 00:09:02,640  
布莱克时代便是如此，  
as they had in Black's day,  

130  
00:09:02,640 --> 00:09:07,920  
指南书记载它们几乎全被花楸树取代。  
which says that they had been superseded almost entirely by rowan.  

131  
00:09:07,920 --> 00:09:11,920  
看来环境变迁那时就已开始。  
It seems the environment was changing even then.  

132  
00:09:15,440 --> 00:09:18,480  
阿伯费尔迪白桦林的瀑布  
The waterfall at the Birks o' Aberfeldy  

133  
00:09:18,480 --> 00:09:23,520  
仅是布莱克提到的数十处飞瀑之一，  
is just one of literally dozens of cascades mentioned by Black's,  

134  
00:09:23,520 --> 00:09:27,240  
早期旅游业有个显著特点：  
and it's a striking feature of early tourism  

135  
00:09:27,240 --> 00:09:32,560  
瀑布对维多利亚时代的人们具有致命吸引力。  
that waterfalls generally exercised a powerful influence over the Victorian imagination.  

136  
00:09:32,560 --> 00:09:35,920  
早期游客痴迷瀑布。  
Early tourists loved waterfalls.  

137  
00:09:35,920 --> 00:09:38,080  
他们永远看不够，  
They simply couldn't get enough of them,  

138  
00:09:38,080 --> 00:09:41,440  
愈是磅礴汹涌愈受欢迎。  
and the bigger and more powerful they were, the better.  

139  
00:09:41,440 --> 00:09:45,800  
激流冲击巨岩的景象  
There was an irresistible appeal in the sight of a river in spate  

140  
00:09:45,800 --> 00:09:47,240  
令人无法抗拒。  
crashing over the rocks.  

141  
00:09:50,760 --> 00:09:55,720  
我钟爱的早期旅行家莎拉·穆雷就是个瀑布迷。  
My own favourite early tourist, Sarah Murray, was a waterfall addict.  

142  
00:09:55,720 --> 00:10:00,120  
1796年的文字中，她在奔腾水流里  
Writing in 1796, she seemed to find something more than just excitement  

143  
00:10:00,120 --> 00:10:03,600  
领略到超越兴奋的体验。  
in watching the foaming power of water.  

144  
00:10:03,600 --> 00:10:06,760  
"轰鸣声超乎想象，  
"The noise was beyond belief,  

145  
00:10:06,760 --> 00:10:11,240  
"水雾令我目不能视、呼吸凝滞。  
"and the spray deprived me of my sight and breath.  

146  
00:10:11,240 --> 00:10:14,040  
"间歇得以喘息时，方能  
"Every now, I was by intervals enabled to look  

147  
00:10:14,040 --> 00:10:19,720  
"瞻仰——我几乎要说——膜拜。"  
"and to breathe, to admire and, I might say, almost adore."  

148  
00:10:19,720 --> 00:10:24,360  
西格蒙德·弗洛伊德提出精神性象征理论后，  
Post Sigmund Freud and his weird world of psychic sexual symbolism,  

149  
00:10:24,360 --> 00:10:27,840  
现代人恐怕会羞于  
I think most of us would feel too self-conscious  

150  
00:10:27,840 --> 00:10:31,480  
如此直白地描述亲水体验。  
to describe our relationship with water quite like this.  

151  
00:10:31,480 --> 00:10:35,520  
但白色激流依旧令人血脉偾张，  
But white, foaming cascades still have a power to thrill  

152  
00:10:35,520 --> 00:10:39,480  
以莎拉·穆雷无法想象的方式。  
and in ways that Sarah Murray could never have conceived.  

153  
00:10:41,160 --> 00:10:44,240  
阿伯费尔迪下游，美丽的泰河  
Just downstream from Aberfeldy, the beautiful River Tay  

154  
00:10:44,240 --> 00:10:49,480  
从慵懒流淌化作连串激流，  
changes from a languidly flowing river into a series of rapids  

155  
00:10:49,480 --> 00:10:54,600  
我来此体验现代白浪漂流的刺激。  
where I've come to experience the modern challenge of white-water rafting.  

156  
00:10:57,480 --> 00:10:59,760  
现在准备划桨。  
Now first positions.  

157  
00:11:01,720 --> 00:11:03,440  
向前划。  
And paddle forward.  

158  
00:11:13,360 --> 00:11:15,440  
'这体验令人窒息，  
'This is a breath-taking experience,  

159  
00:11:15,440 --> 00:11:19,200  
'刹那间我几乎成了莎拉·穆雷，  
'and for a moment, I become almost like Sarah Murray,  

160  
00:11:19,200 --> 00:11:23,280  
'在氤氲水汽中虔诚膜拜。  
'gasping in moist adoration of my watery surroundings.  

161  
00:11:25,960 --> 00:11:31,360  
'幸好及时回神，没有过度沉溺。'  
'Fortunately, I pull myself together before I get too carried away.'  

162  
00:11:34,520 --> 00:11:36,080  
举桨！  
Paddles up in the air!  

163  
00:11:36,080 --> 00:11:38,560  
'渡过激流后，  
'Once we've got the rapids behind us,  

164  
00:11:38,560 --> 00:11:40,600  
'我得以喘息，  
'I have a chance to catch my breath  

165  
00:11:40,600 --> 00:11:43,120  
'与漂流向导迪·麦克德莫特  
'and to chat to rafting guide Dee MacDermott  

166  
00:11:43,120 --> 00:11:45,960  
'畅谈户外生活的益处。'  
'about the benefits of an outdoor lifestyle.'  

167  
00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:49,640  
- 真正的吸引力是什么？  
- What is the thrill, really?  
- 肾上腺素。  
- It's just adrenalin.  

168  
00:11:49,640 --> 00:11:50,960  
所有刺激运动...  
All adrenalin sports...  

169  
00:11:50,960 --> 00:11:53,440  
如果你本就热衷这类活动，  
I think, if you're into that kind of thing anyway,  

170  
00:11:53,440 --> 00:11:55,760  
喜欢户外生活方式  
if you're into an outdoor lifestyle  

171  
00:11:55,760 --> 00:11:59,120  
和各种运动，就会觉得乐趣无穷。  
and lots of activities, lots of sports, it's just great fun.  

172  
00:11:59,120 --> 00:12:02,680  
每天沿河而下是份美妙工作。  
Like, it's so nice going down the river every day. It's a lovely job.  

173  
00:12:02,680 --> 00:12:05,640  
- 确实刺激。  
- It's exciting. I'll give you that.  
- 非常刺激。  
- Yeah.  
- It's very exciting.  

174  
00:12:05,640 --> 00:12:10,920  
- 你觉得享受白浪漂流需要特定性格吗？  
- Do you have to be a special kind of person to enjoy white-water rafting, do you think?  
- 或许吧。  
- Maybe, maybe.  

175  
00:12:10,920 --> 00:12:13,480  
我们训练时要大量练习激流游泳。  
On our course, we did loads of white-water swimming.  

176  
00:12:13,480 --> 00:12:18,280  
整天在急流中反复游泳通过湍滩。  
So you come down these rapids just swimming in quite high water over and over again, all day long.  

177  
00:12:18,280 --> 00:12:21,600  
很有趣，有时我和向导们结束后  
It was great fun, so sometimes me and the guides go out afterwards  

178  
00:12:21,600 --> 00:12:24,800  
会专门游几趟激流找乐子。  
and just swim down the rapids a few times just for the craic.  

179  
00:12:24,800 --> 00:12:27,800  
所以可能确实需要这种性格。  
So maybe you do have to be that kind of person.  

180  
00:12:27,800 --> 00:12:32,040  
在平静河段漂流时，  
I suppose it gives you an opportunity as well to experience the charms of nature  

181  
00:12:32,040 --> 00:12:35,560  
也能领略自然魅力吧？  
- as you're floating down a quieter bit of the river.  
- 当然。  
- Yeah, definitely.  

182  
00:12:35,560 --> 00:12:38,280  
有段叫教堂池的河域  
There's a bit called Church Pool that you see.  

183  
00:12:38,280 --> 00:12:41,760  
- 常能观赏到最多鸟类。  
- That tends to be where you see the most amount of birds.  
- 嗯。  
- Uh-huh.  

184  
00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:46,320  
经常能看到鵟鹰，总在同一个河湾。  
So you get buzzards quite a lot of the time. It always seems to be on the same corner.  

185  
00:12:46,320 --> 00:12:48,440  
苍鹭常成对飞行。  
You get herons flying around in pairs.  

186  
00:12:48,440 --> 00:12:51,400  
- 我还见过河乌。  
- I saw dippers as well.  
- 河乌，没错。  
- Dippers, yeah.  

187  
00:12:51,400 --> 00:12:55,120  
我朋友带团时被河乌迎面撞上。  
One of my friends got hit in the face by a dipper when he was doing a raft trip.  

188  
00:12:55,120 --> 00:12:58,000  
- 他肯定做了什么亏心事。  
- He must have done something to deserve that.  
- 眼神闪躲！  
- Shifty eyes!  

189  
00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:06,560  
下游六英里处是曾繁盛一时的洛吉拉特村。  
Six miles downstream is the once important village of Logierait.  

190  
00:13:08,040 --> 00:13:12,720  
多年间，渡船承载着穿越泰河的旅人往来洛吉拉特。  
For many years, Logierait was served by ferries crossing the River Tay.  

191  
00:13:12,720 --> 00:13:16,120  
旅客常在此休整，  
Travellers would often break their journey here  

192  
00:13:16,120 --> 00:13:19,320  
再北上因弗内斯或南下珀斯。  
before heading north to Inverness or south to Perth.  

193  
00:13:19,320 --> 00:13:24,520  
洛吉拉特最尊贵的客人当属维多利亚女王。  
Perhaps the most prestigious guest to visit Logierait was Queen Victoria.  

194  
00:13:24,520 --> 00:13:29,080  
她为瞻仰自然风光而来的皇家巡游，  
Her royal tour to admire the charms of nature was interrupted  

195  
00:13:29,080 --> 00:13:33,480  
却被生理需求打断。  
when the great monarch herself was forced to answer a call of nature.  

196  
00:13:33,480 --> 00:13:38,960  
情急之下，女王陛下光临了洛吉拉特的厕所。  
Caught short, the imperial personage popped in to use the loos of Logierait.  

197  
00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:43,240  
史料未记载她留下了多少小费。  
History doesn't record what she left by way of a tip.  

198  
00:13:44,520 --> 00:13:48,560  
所幸洛吉拉特为女王备有陶瓷设施。  
Luckily for the Queen, porcelain facilities were available at Logierait.  

199  
00:13:48,560 --> 00:13:51,440  
但当时多数地方并无此条件，  
But quite often they weren't,  

200  
00:13:51,440 --> 00:13:54,320  
旅人只能另寻他法，  
and travellers were forced to use other means,  

201  
00:13:54,320 --> 00:13:57,800  
往往导致不适或尴尬，或二者兼有。  
which often caused discomfort, embarrassment or both.

202  
00:13:58,960 --> 00:14:01,960  
多亏足智多谋的维多利亚时代人，解脱神器  
Thanks to the ever resourceful Victorians, help,  

203  
00:14:01,960 --> 00:14:04,280  
或者说解手装备很快问世——  
or should I say relief, was soon at hand  

204  
00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:08,640  
就是这个造型诡异得令人不安的装置  
in the form of this extraordinary and rather disturbing-looking device  

205  
00:14:08,640 --> 00:14:11,160  
名为专利印度橡胶尿壶。  
known as the patent India Rubber Urinal.  

206  
00:14:11,160 --> 00:14:15,040  
早在火车配备车载厕所前，  
Now, long before trains were equipped with on-board loos,  

207  
00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:20,280  
这个发明被视为解决内急的良方。  
this contraption was considered to a solution to the problem of a full bladder.  

208  
00:14:20,280 --> 00:14:24,120  
用法是像这样绑在腰间，  
The idea was to strap it around your waist like that,  

209  
00:14:24,120 --> 00:14:30,000  
就能隐秘地悬垂在外衣下不被察觉。  
so that it would hang discretely and invisibly beneath your outer garments.  

210  
00:14:30,000 --> 00:14:31,880  
据发明者称，  
According to the inventor,  

211  
00:14:31,880 --> 00:14:35,960  
该装置的核心专利是单向阀门，  
the key and unique feature of this device was the valve,  

212  
00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:39,880  
确保液体不会逆流。  
which ensured a one-way flow of liquids through the system.  

213  
00:14:39,880 --> 00:14:41,800  
杜绝回溅。  
No wash-back, then.  

214  
00:14:46,040 --> 00:14:49,040  
重新登车向北骑行，  
Back on my bike, I pedal north.  

215  
00:14:49,040 --> 00:14:51,200  
沿着布莱克推荐的路线，  
Following the route suggested by Black's,  

216  
00:14:51,200 --> 00:14:54,920  
我进入风景如画的皮特洛赫里小镇，  
I enter the picturesque village of Pitlochry,  

217  
00:14:54,920 --> 00:15:00,600  
愕然发现这里也自称是苏格兰中心。  
which I note with dismay also claims to be the centre of Scotland.  

218  
00:15:02,560 --> 00:15:04,520  
维多利亚女王让皮特洛赫里声名鹊起。  
Queen Victoria made Pitlochry famous.  

219  
00:15:04,520 --> 00:15:09,280  
铁路建成后，这里发展为时尚的高地度假胜地。  
After the railway was built, it developed into a fashionable Highland resort.  

220  
00:15:09,280 --> 00:15:13,800  
但1886年房车旅行先驱威廉·戈登·斯特布斯到访时，  
But when the caravanning pioneer William Gordon Stables arrived  

221  
00:15:13,800 --> 00:15:19,640  
认为小镇过度开发，不合他意。  
in 1886, he found the village too over-developed for his tastes.  

222  
00:15:19,640 --> 00:15:24,400  
"这小镇对我的吉普赛式舒适理念而言太过文明。  
"The little town is almost too civilised for my gypsy ideas of comfort.  

223  
00:15:24,400 --> 00:15:28,240  
"花枝招展的女郎和油头粉面的男子，  
"There are loudly dressed females and male mashers,  

224  
00:15:28,240 --> 00:15:30,840  
"让我只想快速穿过。"  
"so I felt inclined to fly through."  

225  
00:15:32,840 --> 00:15:36,920  
有趣的是，我的维多利亚指南书  
Curiously, my Victorian guide book is rather sensitive  

226  
00:15:36,920 --> 00:15:40,680  
对所谓得体高地服饰颇为敏感，  
about what it considers to be appropriate Highland attire  

227  
00:15:40,680 --> 00:15:44,320  
礼貌要求游客避免过度装扮。  
and politely asks tourists to refrain from excess.  

228  
00:15:45,320 --> 00:15:49,280  
"显然许多南方同胞认为  
"It is too evident that many of our southern brethren consider  

229  
00:15:49,280 --> 00:15:52,400  
"格纹呢是通行高地的护照。  
"the plaid a passport through the Highlands.  

230  
00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:56,400  
"事实上苏格兰低地人很少这般穿着，  
"And while it is a fact that the Scottish Lowlander is seldom seem  

231  
00:15:56,400 --> 00:16:02,000  
"英格兰人却频繁套上这种装束。"  
"in such a costume, the English too frequently adopt this dress."  

232  
00:16:02,000 --> 00:16:07,280  
从证据看，他们穿起苏格兰短裙可毫不羞涩。  
From the evidence, I don't think they were shy in coming out with the kilt.  

233  
00:16:07,280 --> 00:16:14,120  
"英格兰人似乎钟爱短裙飞扬过膝的戏剧性场面。"  
"The English seem to love the sheer theatricality of swirling kilts aboon their knees."  

234  
00:16:17,240 --> 00:16:20,760  
离开粗花呢与格纹的皮特洛赫里，  
From the tweed and tartan of Pitlochry, Blair Atholl  

235  
00:16:20,760 --> 00:16:23,200  
布莱尔阿瑟尔是我的下一站。  
is my next destination.  

236  
00:16:23,200 --> 00:16:30,760  
布莱克指南称其为"坐落在狂野景致中的高地小村落"。  
Described by Black's as "a Highland hamlet noted for the wild scenery amid which it is situated".  

237  
00:16:33,120 --> 00:16:38,000  
这是布莱尔城堡，位于布莱尔阿瑟尔村外。  
This is Blair Castle, just outside the village of Blair Atholl.  

238  
00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:45,320  
每年五月，布莱尔城堡的场地都会举办  
Every May, the grounds of Blair Castle provide the spectacular venue  

239  
00:16:45,320 --> 00:16:48,040  
盛大的阿瑟尔集会与高地运动会，  
for the Atholl Gathering and Highland Games,  

240  
00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:51,400  
'我在此遇见布鲁斯·罗伯，他多年来  
'where I've come to meet Bruce Robb, who, amongst other things,  

241  
00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:54,600  
'一直参与投掷松木杆比赛。'  
'has been tossing the caber here for years.'  

242  
00:16:54,600 --> 00:16:59,240  
我读到这些活动其实是维多利亚时代编造的  
I've read that the whole thing was really cooked up in Victorian times  

243  
00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:02,880  
为展示高地人的体魄，  
to kind of impress people with their physical prowess of the Highlanders,  

244  
00:17:02,880 --> 00:17:05,200  
此前并无真正的高地运动会。  
and before that, there wasn't really a Highland Games at all.  

245  
00:17:05,200 --> 00:17:06,520  
是这样吗？  
Is that right?  

246  
00:17:06,520 --> 00:17:08,240  
我认为历史可追溯数百年甚至上千年前，  
I think it goes back hundreds if not thousands of years,  

247  
00:17:08,240 --> 00:17:10,400  
当时部落通过竞赛选拔最强健者  
where you had clans competing to see who is the best athlete  

248  
00:17:10,400 --> 00:17:14,040  
作为出征时的精锐战士，  
and put them forward as their best warrior when they went  

249  
00:17:14,040 --> 00:17:16,600  
因此渊源非常久远。  
into battle and stuff, so I think it goes back a long, long way.  

250  
00:17:16,600 --> 00:17:18,720  
- 所以这是种实力证明？  
- So it's quite a proving ground, was it?  
- 是的。  
- Yeah, yeah, I think so.  

251  
00:17:18,720 --> 00:17:21,280  
只为找出最魁梧、最强壮、最敏捷的勇士  
Just to find who was the biggest, the strongest and fastest  

252  
00:17:21,280 --> 00:17:25,400  
史料明确显示其历史非常悠久。  
and so on, so I think there's definitely a history that says it goes back a very long way.  

253  
00:17:25,400 --> 00:17:28,560  
你参加哪些项目？擅长投掷什么？  
Which sports are you involved in? Which things do you throw?  

254  
00:17:28,560 --> 00:17:31,840  
今天我会参加苏格兰链球、松木杆、  
Well, today I'll be doing the Scots hammer, er, the caber,  

255  
00:17:31,840 --> 00:17:36,120  
过杆重物、麻袋过杆、  
weight over the bar, er, the sheaf, which you do over a bar as well,  

256  
00:17:36,120 --> 00:17:38,840  
铅球和远距重物投掷。  
and the shot put, and weight for distance as well.  

257  
00:17:38,840 --> 00:17:41,920  
- 你擅长投松木杆吗？  
- Are you quite good with caber?  
- 还不错。  
- Yeah, not too bad.  

258  
00:17:41,920 --> 00:17:45,440  
需要些技巧练习，我算得上熟练。  
It takes a bit of practice, bit of a knack, so, yeah, I'm not too bad.  

259  
00:17:45,440 --> 00:17:50,360  
这项目起源是什么？投掷树干看起来相当奇特。  
What's the origins of that, cos it seems a bizarrely exotic thing to do, to throw a tree?  

260  
00:17:50,360 --> 00:17:53,640  
有各种传说，  
Och, there's... various, various myths,  

261  
00:17:53,640 --> 00:17:57,200  
我认为其一与伐木工有关。  
but I think one of them is that it was to do with the loggers.  

262  
00:17:57,200 --> 00:17:59,680  
他们曾将木材抛入河中，  
They used to toss them into the river so they could float them  

263  
00:17:59,680 --> 00:18:01,880  
顺流漂到港口装船运输。  
downstream to the harbour to take away on boats and stuff.  

264  
00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:04,360  
闲暇时就炫耀这个当消遣？  
In their spare time, they couldn't think of anything better to do than show off?  

265  
00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:07,240  
没错。看我能把树干玩出什么花样。  
I think, well aye, aye. Look what I can do with a tree, yeah.  

266  
00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:12,360  
我必须承认对高地运动会有特殊感情，  
I have to admit I do have a soft spot for Highland Games,  

267  
00:18:12,360 --> 00:18:14,760  
尤其是啤酒帐篷。  
especially the beer tent.  

268  
00:18:14,760 --> 00:18:18,120  
但并非所有游客都欣赏这种色彩、  
But not all tourists were so well disposed towards the colour,  

269  
00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:20,440  
盛况或音乐。  
the pageantry or the music.  

270  
00:18:20,440 --> 00:18:24,440  
当爱国苏格兰人、房车先驱威廉·戈登·斯特布斯  
When the patriotic Scot and caravan pioneer William Gordon Stables  

271  
00:18:24,440 --> 00:18:28,600  
到此，连他的热情都受到挑战。  
came here, even his enthusiasm was challenged.  

272  
00:18:28,600 --> 00:18:32,560  
"六名风笛手身着全套高地服饰昂首阔步，  
"Half a dozen pipers are strutting about in full Highland dress  

273  
00:18:32,560 --> 00:18:35,400  
"歌管上飘动着鲜艳丝带。  
"with gay ribbons floating above their chanters.  

274  
00:18:35,400 --> 00:18:39,440  
"每位乐手都演奏着自己最得意的曲调，  
"Every piper is playing a tune that pleases himself best,  

275  
00:18:39,440 --> 00:18:44,680  
"整体而言音乐风格相当混杂。"  
"so that, upon the whole, the music is of a somewhat mixed character."  

276  
00:18:46,000 --> 00:18:50,760  
将风笛的尖啸留给鉴赏家欣赏，  
Leaving the sound of skirling pipes for connoisseurs to enjoy,  

277  
00:18:50,760 --> 00:18:54,040  
我沿国家自行车网络7号路线继续北行，  
I continue north along a section of a National Cycle Network  

278  
00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:59,680  
这条路线连接格拉斯哥与苏格兰最北端的瑟索。  
called Route 7 which connects Glasgow to Thurso in the far north of Scotland.  

279  
00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:03,720  
我认为这些自行车道是绝妙倡议。  
I think these cycle routes are a brilliant initiative.  

280  
00:19:03,720 --> 00:19:07,920  
它们鼓励现代骑行者通过  
They encourage modern cyclists out into the countryside on routes  

281  
00:19:07,920 --> 00:19:11,840  
无车或像这样车流稀少的路段深入乡野。  
that are either traffic-free or, like this one, traffic light.  

282  
00:19:14,080 --> 00:19:19,360  
我的古董汉伯自行车更适合理智骑行而非竞速，  
My old Humber bike is designed more for contemplation than speed,  

283  
00:19:19,360 --> 00:19:20,360  
正合我意。  
which is fine by me.  

284  
00:19:20,360 --> 00:19:24,840  
有如此美景可赏，何必汗流浃背？  
Why work up a sweat when there's so much scenery to enjoy?  

285  
00:19:26,160 --> 00:19:29,280  
维多利亚时代，只有富人才负担得起  
Back in Victorian times, only the wealthy could afford  

286  
00:19:29,280 --> 00:19:32,040  
骑行的乐趣。  
the pleasures of cycling.  

287  
00:19:32,040 --> 00:19:35,640  
但批量生产后，自行车逐渐普及，  
But after mass production, bikes became increasingly affordable,  

288  
00:19:35,640 --> 00:19:39,840  
普通劳动者很快也能驰骋在开阔道路上。  
and soon, ordinary working people were taking to the open road.  

289  
00:19:40,840 --> 00:19:44,280  
如今自行车虽已换代，热爱依旧如初。  
Today, the bikes may have changed, but the passion is the same.  

290  
00:19:45,320 --> 00:19:52,200  
骑行向导斯科特·泰尔斯为想用双轮探索高地的现代游客服务。  
Cycle guide Scot Tares caters for modern tourists who want to explore the Highlands on two wheels.  

291  
00:19:52,200 --> 00:19:55,000  
很多人都说...  
A lot of folk have all said that...  

292  
00:19:55,000 --> 00:19:59,560  
自行车是人类最伟大的发明之一。  
the bike's one of the greatest inventions that mankind's ever made.  

293  
00:19:59,560 --> 00:20:01,560  
- 你认同吗？  
- Do you reckon?  
- 绝对认同。  
- Yeah. Oh, definitely, yeah.  

294  
00:20:01,560 --> 00:20:05,400  
它的各种用途，  
All the different uses it's been put to,  

295  
00:20:05,400 --> 00:20:08,720  
是种绝妙的交通工具。当你...  
it's been just a fantastic form of transport. When you...  

296  
00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:14,280  
骑行时能闻到气息，看到...  
you're riding along on your bike, you experience the smells and the...  

297  
00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:17,720  
比关在金属盒子里见识更多。  
you see a lot more than you would shut up in a big metal box.  

298  
00:20:17,720 --> 00:20:21,880  
斯科特，为何世界各地的人  
And, Scot, can you tell me why people come from all over the world  

299  
00:20:21,880 --> 00:20:23,680  
都来苏格兰骑行？  
to go cycling here in Scotland?  

300  
00:20:23,680 --> 00:20:25,080  
吸引力何在？  
What's the attraction?

301  
00:20:25,080 --> 00:20:29,600  
我认为苏格兰拥有绝美的自然风光。  
I think Scotland's got just some fantastic scenery.  

302  
00:20:29,600 --> 00:20:33,760  
地貌多样性与欧洲其他地区截然不同。  
A really varied scenery and a lot different to the rest of Europe.  

303  
00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:36,760  
我们拥有极其完善的道路网络，  
We've got an absolutely wonderful network of roads,  

304  
00:20:36,760 --> 00:20:39,960  
尤其是高地佩思郡一带。  
particularly around Highland Perthshire.  

305  
00:20:39,960 --> 00:20:42,880  
你认为自己也是风景向导吗？  
Do you see yourself as a guide to the scenery as well?  

306  
00:20:42,880 --> 00:20:43,920  
当然。  
Definitely.  

307  
00:20:43,920 --> 00:20:47,600  
我骑行走遍全球和整个欧洲，  
I've been cycling all over the world and all over Europe,  

308  
00:20:47,600 --> 00:20:50,280  
每次回到苏格兰都会感叹：  
and every time I came back to Scotland, I thought "You know what?  

309  
00:20:50,280 --> 00:20:52,040  
"我们这里应有尽有。  
"We've got it all here.  

310  
00:20:52,040 --> 00:20:54,800  
"美景近在咫尺，何必远行？"  
"Why go elsewhere when everything's here on our doorstep?"  

311  
00:20:54,800 --> 00:20:57,480  
确实壮丽，但你是否担心  
It is stunning, but I also wonder, your know,  

312  
00:20:57,480 --> 00:21:00,320  
吸引过多游客  
are you not in danger of bringing lots of people  

313  
00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:04,960  
会导致未来某天  
onto the road and maybe, in a generation from now, you won't be able  

314  
00:21:04,960 --> 00:21:08,480  
公路被自行车挤得水泄不通？  
to move with the number of bikes on the highways and byways.  

315  
00:21:08,480 --> 00:21:10,720  
那将是美妙景象。  
I think that would be fantastic.  

316  
00:21:10,720 --> 00:21:15,680  
在这个人们日益肥胖的时代，  
I think, just in a generation where everyone's getting bigger  

317  
00:21:15,680 --> 00:21:20,480  
骑行既能健身、又能赏景、  
and heavier, it's a fantastic way to keep fit,  

318  
00:21:20,480 --> 00:21:22,680  
环保且充满乐趣。  
see the scenery, be green and just...  

319  
00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,400  
老实说我已经瘦了几磅。  
just enjoy yourself.  
Well, I'm shedding a few pounds, I can tell you.  

321  
00:21:29,120 --> 00:21:33,440  
'斯科特介绍他的骑行团提供'  
'Scot tells me that his tours offer the pedalling enthusiast  

322  
00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:35,960  
'瑜伽课程、水疗护理、'  
'yoga classes, spa treatments,  

323  
00:21:35,960 --> 00:21:38,840  
'按摩和自行车保养课程'  
'massages and bike maintenance classes  

324  
00:21:38,840 --> 00:21:41,080  
'作为一日游的组成部分。'  
'as part of a day's tour.  

325  
00:21:41,080 --> 00:21:44,160  
'看他们的骑行强度，难怪骑行者'  
'At the pace they're going, I'm not surprised that cyclists  

326  
00:21:44,160 --> 00:21:48,440  
'和他们的爱车都需要精心呵护。'  
'and their machines need a little TLC.'  

328  
00:21:52,440 --> 00:21:55,440  
布莱尔阿瑟尔以北，道路开始攀升  
North of Blair Atholl, the road begins to climb  

329  
00:21:55,440 --> 00:21:57,400  
通向德鲁莫赫特山口。  
towards the Drumochter Pass.  

330  
00:21:58,720 --> 00:22:02,960  
早期游客被这里的壮丽景色震撼。  
Early tourists were struck by the grandeur of the scenery.  

331  
00:22:02,960 --> 00:22:07,440  
这似乎是片未经人类染指的净土。  
It seemed a pristine environment, undisturbed by human hands.  

332  
00:22:07,440 --> 00:22:10,880  
1796年穿越高地时，  
Travelling through the Highlands in 1796,  

333  
00:22:10,880 --> 00:22:14,360  
莎拉·穆雷被眼前景象打动。  
Sarah Murray was moved by what she saw.  

334  
00:22:14,360 --> 00:22:17,160  
"这片广袤荒野令我欣喜，  
"Even this extensive wild please me  

335  
00:22:17,160 --> 00:22:20,000  
"赋予我无限遐思。  
"and gave me scope to boundless reflection.  

336  
00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:24,360  
"感官完全被赞叹之情占据。"  
"My senses were lost to everything but admiration."  

337  
00:22:27,280 --> 00:22:31,960  
德鲁莫赫特山口海拔1300英尺。  
The summit of the Drumochter Pass is 1,300 feet above sea level.  

338  
00:22:31,960 --> 00:22:34,320  
从这里向北，我将穿越  
From up here, my route north takes me  

339  
00:22:34,320 --> 00:22:36,680  
古老的巴德诺赫地区。  
through the ancient district of Badenoch.  

340  
00:22:39,680 --> 00:22:43,840  
这是高地村落纽顿莫尔，  
This is the Highland village of Newtonmore,  

341  
00:22:43,840 --> 00:22:48,120  
也加入了"苏格兰中心"之争。  
which also competes at being the very centre of Scotland.  

342  
00:22:48,120 --> 00:22:51,720  
纽顿莫尔或许以诸多事物闻名，  
Newtonmore may be famous for many things, but this claim  

343  
00:22:51,720 --> 00:22:55,200  
但自称苏格兰地理中心还是头回听说。  
to be at the geographic centre of Scotland is new to me.  

344  
00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:59,080  
不过可靠消息称，确凿证据就在  
However, I've been reliably informed that convincing evidence lies  

345  
00:22:59,080 --> 00:23:01,160  
镇外不远处。  
just outside the town.  

346  
00:23:01,160 --> 00:23:03,920  
我带着地图和坐标，  
I've got a map, I've got the co-ordinates,  

347  
00:23:03,920 --> 00:23:08,320  
决定亲自一探究竟。  
so I think I'll just have to go and see for myself.  

348  
00:23:09,760 --> 00:23:11,640  
寻找过程颇为周折。  
Finding it proves very tricky.  

349  
00:23:11,640 --> 00:23:14,240  
据说要寻找带十字标记的石头，  
I've been told to look out for a stone with cross on it,  

350  
00:23:14,240 --> 00:23:17,160  
但未见特殊标识。  
but there's nothing remarkable to be seen.  

351  
00:23:19,080 --> 00:23:21,360  
应该就在这附近。  
It's supposed to be around here somewhere.  

352  
00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:26,720  
苏格兰地理中心。古喀里多尼亚跳动的心脏。  
The geographic centre of Scotland. The beating heart of old Caledonia.  

353  
00:23:29,120 --> 00:23:32,320  
据说标记就在附近某块石头上。  
It's supposed to be on a stone somewhere around here.  

354  
00:23:32,320 --> 00:23:35,720  
终于寻获。  
Finally, I find it.  

355  
00:23:35,720 --> 00:23:39,680  
干石墙某块石上的简易石匠标记，  
A simple mason's mark on a stone in this drystane dyke,  

356  
00:23:39,680 --> 00:23:43,040  
标示着苏格兰精神的真正核心。  
indicating the very epicentre of Scottishness.  

357  
00:23:43,040 --> 00:23:46,720  
如此重要的地点，本以为会看到  
You know, for such a significant spot, you'd somehow expect  

358  
00:23:46,720 --> 00:23:48,920  
宏伟纪念碑。  
a big monument to be here.  

359  
00:23:48,920 --> 00:23:52,760  
出于对国家的敬意，我自备了旗帜，  
But out of respect for the nation, I've brought my own flag,  

360  
00:23:52,760 --> 00:23:57,920  
在此插旗。苏格兰真正的勇敢之心。  
which I'll plant. The very brave heart of Scotland.  

361  
00:23:57,920 --> 00:23:59,440  
太棒了。  
Brilliant.  

362  
00:24:02,120 --> 00:24:06,280  
从苏格兰中心轻松骑行，  
From the centre of Scotland, an easy cycle ride brings me  

363  
00:24:06,280 --> 00:24:09,040  
便进入凯恩戈姆国家公园腹地。  
into the heart of the Cairngorm National Park.  

364  
00:24:09,040 --> 00:24:12,280  
当莎拉·穆雷到访时，  
When Sarah Murray came here,  

365  
00:24:12,280 --> 00:24:16,280  
同样被这片山海森林之美震撼。  
she too was stuck by the beauty of this land of mountain and forest.  

366  
00:24:16,280 --> 00:24:20,680  
"悬崖密林覆盖，翠绿草甸  
"The crags are covered with wood, and the verdant meads  

367  
00:24:20,680 --> 00:24:24,360  
"点缀着挺拔树木，抬眼可见  
"are ornamented with fine trees and within sight  

368  
00:24:24,360 --> 00:24:27,400  
"凯恩戈姆山脉，其幽深崖壁间  
"of the Cairngorm Mountains, whose hollow cliffs  

369  
00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:30,720  
"堆积着终年不化的积雪。"  
"are filled with never-melting snow."  

370  
00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:36,080  
凯恩戈姆地区1999年才成为国家公园。  
The Cairngorm area has only been a national park since 1999.  

371  
00:24:36,080 --> 00:24:40,000  
但在立法保护其珍宝前，  
But long before its treasures were enshrined in legislation,  

372  
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:44,800  
人们早已来此享受丰富的自然馈赠。  
people were coming here to enjoy the abundant charms of nature.  

373  
00:24:47,080 --> 00:24:52,440  
这里仍栖息着丰富野生动物，尤以象征凯恩戈姆命运的  
The area is still rich in wildlife and is famously home to the osprey,  

374  
00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:56,800  
鹗最为著名。  
a bird that has come to symbolise the fortunes of the Cairngorms.  

375  
00:24:56,800 --> 00:25:00,280  
我随罗伯·兰伯特来到艾琳湖畔，  
I've joined Rob Lambert on the shores of Loch an Eilein  

376  
00:25:00,280 --> 00:25:05,160  
探寻这里成为维多利亚时代游客圣地的原因。  
to find out why this became a favourite haunt of Victorian tourists.  

377  
00:25:05,160 --> 00:25:08,320  
他们为这般绝景而来——  
They were coming here to see this wonderful landscape.  

378  
00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:11,240  
山峦与森林的交相辉映。  
The interplay of the mountains and the forest.  

379  
00:25:11,240 --> 00:25:15,040  
随着19世纪时光推移，  
As more and more of the decades went by in the 19th century,  

380  
00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:19,160  
鸟类尤其是鹗，成为高地风光  
birds and, in particular, ospreys became a hugely important part  

381  
00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:22,640  
与体验的核心部分。  
of that Highland vista and that experience.  

382  
00:25:22,640 --> 00:25:25,400  
最早关于鹗的文字记录  
And you start to get the first written observations  

383  
00:25:25,400 --> 00:25:29,880  
始于1870-1890年代的游客，  
about ospreys by the tourists in the 1870s and 1880s and 1890s,  

384  
00:25:29,880 --> 00:25:34,080  
逐渐形成了对鹗命运的切实关注。  
and that builds into a genuine concern for the fate of the ospreys.  

385  
00:25:37,440 --> 00:25:40,760  
早期生态游客能在艾琳湖  
Early eco-tourists could watch nesting ospreys  

386  
00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:43,640  
观察筑巢的鹗，布莱克指南称此处  
on Loch an Eilein, which Black's describes  

387  
00:25:43,640 --> 00:25:47,680  
是苏格兰鹗最后的栖息地。  
as the last remaining haunt of the osprey in Scotland.  

388  
00:25:47,680 --> 00:25:52,000  
至1899年，仅剩一对繁殖配偶。  
By 1899, they were down to a single nesting pair.  

389  
00:25:52,000 --> 00:25:54,840  
我们眼前这座城堡  
We're standing here looking at this castle  

390  
00:25:54,840 --> 00:25:56,960  
堪称英国自然保护史的  
and we're looking at a monument,  

391  
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:00,120  
一座丰碑。  
if you like, to the history of nature conservation in Britain.  

392  
00:26:00,120 --> 00:26:03,720  
拥有这片土地的罗斯穆克斯格兰特家族，  
And the Grants of Rothiemurchus, who own this estate,  

393  
00:26:03,720 --> 00:26:06,120  
是保护运动的先驱。  
were pioneers in that conservation effort.  

394  
00:26:06,120 --> 00:26:10,040  
1893年，伦敦动物学会  
So much so, that in 1893, the Zoological Society of London  

395  
00:26:10,040 --> 00:26:14,840  
为其鹗保护工作颁发奖章。  
awarded them a medal for their sort of osprey conservation efforts.  

396  
00:26:14,840 --> 00:26:19,400  
然而开明的土地管理未能挽回颓势。  
Such enlightened estate management was to no avail.  

397  
00:26:19,400 --> 00:26:22,560  
1916年，英国鹗灭绝——  
By 1916, the osprey in Britain was extinct -  

398  
00:26:22,560 --> 00:26:26,960  
被运动爱好者射杀，遭猎场看守人迫害——  
shot by sportsmen and persecuted by gamekeepers -  

399  
00:26:26,960 --> 00:26:29,840  
随后奇迹发生。  
but then something amazing happened.  

400  
00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:34,840  
1954年鹗群大规模回归。  
The big return occurred in 1954 when ospreys did come back.  

401  
00:26:34,840 --> 00:26:39,600  
苏格兰皇家鸟类保护协会立即联合罗斯穆克斯格兰特家族  
And immediately, the RSPB in Scotland, along with the Grants of Rothiemurchus,  

402  
00:26:39,600 --> 00:26:42,160  
及其他自然保护组织  
who were involved in other organisations  

403  
00:26:42,160 --> 00:26:44,840  
建立了监测站。  
in nature conservancy, set up a watch.

403  
00:26:44,840 --> 00:26:47,280  
但即便那时，巢穴仍多次  
But even then, the nests were disturbed  

404  
00:26:47,280 --> 00:26:50,560  
遭破坏洗劫，直到苏格兰皇家鸟类保护协会  
and robbed on a number of occasions, and then George Waterston  

405  
00:26:50,560 --> 00:26:55,240  
会长乔治·沃特斯顿作出被视作  
who was Director of the RSPB in Scotland, made what some see  

406  
00:26:55,240 --> 00:26:59,760  
英国自然保护史上最具远见的决定——  
as one of the most visionary decisions in the history of British nature conservation,  

407  
00:26:59,760 --> 00:27:02,840  
向公众开放巢穴观测点，  
and he decided to open up the nest to public scrutiny,  

408  
00:27:02,840 --> 00:27:05,080  
让人们亲眼见证鹗的生存，  
to bring people in to show them ospreys,  

409  
00:27:05,080 --> 00:27:07,240  
激发保护热情。  
to get them enthused by ospreys.  

410  
00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:10,840  
可谓推动猛禽保护观念变革的关键之举。  
To drive forward, if you like, a change in attitudes towards birds of prey.  

411  
00:27:12,280 --> 00:27:14,880  
这场豪赌终获成功。  
The gamble paid off.  

412  
00:27:14,880 --> 00:27:18,800  
如今全国已有200多对繁殖鹗。  
There are now over 200 nesting pairs across the country.  

413  
00:27:18,800 --> 00:27:24,120  
每年逾30万游客前来观鹗，  
Every year, over 300,000 visitors come to watch the ospreys,  

414  
00:27:24,120 --> 00:27:28,360  
为高地经济注入350万英镑。  
pumping £3.5 million into the Highland economy.  

415  
00:27:31,120 --> 00:27:35,520  
鹗群绝处逢生的传奇让我深思  
The story of the osprey's remarkable return from extinction leads me  

416  
00:27:35,520 --> 00:27:38,000  
旅游业的影响——  
to reflect on the impact of tourism.  

417  
00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:40,320  
未必总是负面。  
It doesn't always have to be negative.  

418  
00:27:41,960 --> 00:27:45,360  
从凯恩戈姆高原边缘俯瞰，  
From the edge of the Cairngorm plateau, there are stunning views  

419  
00:27:45,360 --> 00:27:47,720  
我的旅程轨迹与这片  
back along the course of my journey  

420  
00:27:47,720 --> 00:27:51,320  
自首批游客手持布莱克指南书探索以来  
and across a landscape that has changed enormously  

421  
00:27:51,320 --> 00:27:54,800  
巨变的土地尽收眼底。  
since the first tourists followed Black's guide book.  

422  
00:27:54,800 --> 00:27:58,680  
公路如丝线穿行峡谷，将度假者送往  
Roads now thread their way through the glens, bringing holiday-makers  

423  
00:27:58,680 --> 00:28:02,880  
为满足游客需求而扩建一倍的城镇。  
to towns that have doubled in size to serve their needs.  

424  
00:28:05,480 --> 00:28:09,760  
但若登临足够高处，仍能寻得  
But if you get high enough, it's still possible to find peace and quiet,  

425  
00:28:09,760 --> 00:28:13,360  
被壮丽山河治愈的宁静。  
to be restored by the magnificence of the landscape.  

426  
00:28:17,120 --> 00:28:20,080  
若你追寻高山之巅的孤寂，  
If it's the solitude of the high summits you're after,  

427  
00:28:20,080 --> 00:28:24,600  
这里正是凝思自然魅力的绝佳之境。  
then this is the perfect place to contemplate the charms of nature.  

428  
00:28:27,400 --> 00:28:29,360  
敬请期待下期《壮游》，  
Join me on my next Grand Tour,  

429  
00:28:29,360 --> 00:28:34,720  
我将独木泛舟，追寻苏格兰之魂。  
when I'll be paddling my own canoe in search of the spirit of Scotland.