1  
00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:07,400  
几个世纪以来，克莱德湾  
For generations, the Firth of Clyde  

2  
00:00:07,400 --> 00:00:11,960  
一直是数百万苏格兰人首选的度假胜地，  
was the holiday destination of choice for millions of Scots,  

3  
00:00:11,960 --> 00:00:13,960  
无论贫富。  
both rich and poor.  

4  
00:00:13,960 --> 00:00:16,320  
在这里，你可以享受健康的海风，  
Here, you could enjoy healthy sea breezes,  

5  
00:00:16,320 --> 00:00:18,080  
在咸水中畅游，  
take a dunk in the briny  

6  
00:00:18,080 --> 00:00:21,800  
再来一两杯最爱的美酒。  
and have a glass or two of your favourite tipple.  

7  
00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:23,560  
而且，如果你足够富有，  
And, if you were rich enough,  

8  
00:00:23,560 --> 00:00:26,520  
你甚至可以同时享受以上所有乐趣。  
you could enjoy all of the above at the same time.  

9  
00:00:27,640 --> 00:00:29,520  
干杯。  
Bottoms up.  

10  
00:00:32,360 --> 00:00:36,640  
在本系列中，我将重走一些早期游客  
In this series, I'm retracing the routes taken by some of  

11  
00:00:36,640 --> 00:00:39,400  
前往苏格兰的路线。  
the early tourists to Scotland.  

12  
00:00:39,400 --> 00:00:44,320  
早在1820年，出版商就开始制作旅游指南，  
From as early as 1820, publishers began producing tourist guide books,  

13  
00:00:44,320 --> 00:00:48,680  
而《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》是最早的之一。  
and Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland was one of the first.  

14  
00:00:50,560 --> 00:00:57,040  
这本精彩的书籍在我家已传承数代。  
A copy of this wonderful volume has been in my family for generations.  

15  
00:00:57,040 --> 00:01:00,920  
我们度假时，它总是放在我父亲的车里。  
It was always kept in my father's car when we went on holiday.  

16  
00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:03,480  
现在，我再次让它的书页指引我  
Now, I'm letting its pages guide me again  

17  
00:01:03,480 --> 00:01:05,960  
开启我的六次苏格兰大环游。  
on my six Grand Tours of Scotland.  

18  
00:01:05,960 --> 00:01:07,840  
旅途中，我还将  
On the road, I'll also be  

19  
00:01:07,840 --> 00:01:09,680  
翻阅一些早期旅行者的  
dipping in to the notes and jottings  

20  
00:01:09,680 --> 00:01:12,040  
笔记和随笔，  
of some early travellers  

21  
00:01:12,040 --> 00:01:14,960  
了解他们的经历。  
to hear about their experiences.  

22  
00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:18,680  
这次，我将踏上旅程，探索  
This time, I'm on a voyage to discover  

23  
00:01:18,680 --> 00:01:21,800  
来自各行各业的游客如何享受  
how visitors from all walks of life  

24  
00:01:21,800 --> 00:01:24,960  
雄伟的克莱德湾的岛屿、城镇和避风海湾。  
enjoyed the islands, towns and sheltered bays  

25  
00:01:24,960 --> 00:01:27,400  
of the mighty Firth of Clyde.  

26  
00:01:41,920 --> 00:01:45,440  
我的大环游将带我沿着克莱德河畔，  
My grand tour takes me down the Clyde Riviera,  

27  
00:01:45,440 --> 00:01:48,160  
首先停靠在比特岛的罗斯西，  
calling first at Rothesay on the Isle of Bute,  

28  
00:01:48,160 --> 00:01:51,600  
然后跳转到坎布雷岛，最后向南航行  
hops across to Cumbrae, and finally sails south  

29  
00:01:51,600 --> 00:01:54,600  
到达巨大的岩石哨兵——艾尔萨岩。  
to the great rock sentinel, Ailsa Craig.  

30  
00:01:56,520 --> 00:01:59,480  
我的旅程从这里开始，克莱德河  
My journey starts here, where the River Clyde  

31  
00:01:59,480 --> 00:02:03,320  
与大海相遇，形成克莱德湾。  
meets the sea and becomes the Firth of Clyde.  

32  
00:02:03,320 --> 00:02:05,800  
这个地方我非常熟悉，  
This is somewhere that I know very well  

33  
00:02:05,800 --> 00:02:08,880  
也特别喜爱。  
and I'm particularly fond of.  

34  
00:02:08,880 --> 00:02:13,040  
童年时，我在这片水域度过了大量时光，  
I spent a huge amount of time as a child on this stretch of water,  

35  
00:02:13,040 --> 00:02:16,920  
这要归功于我父亲对航海的痴迷。  
thanks to my father's obsession with sailing.  

36  
00:02:16,920 --> 00:02:20,120  
他曾是克莱德巡航俱乐部的成员，  
He was once a member of the Clyde Cruising Club,  

37  
00:02:20,120 --> 00:02:24,440  
并自豪地拥有一艘建于1890年的古董游艇，  
and was the proud owner of an antique yacht built in 1890,  

38  
00:02:24,440 --> 00:02:25,880  
名为“西风号”。  
called West Wind.  

39  
00:02:25,880 --> 00:02:29,240  
在“西风号”脱锚失事之前，  
Now, before West Wind dragged her anchor and was wrecked,  

40  
00:02:29,240 --> 00:02:31,840  
它是我父亲最钟爱的航海工具，  
she was my father's sailing craft of choice  

41  
00:02:31,840 --> 00:02:35,800  
偶尔，他还会带上他的儿子们一起出海。  
and, from time to time, he even took his sons with him.  

42  
00:02:37,680 --> 00:02:40,360  
但“西风号”比起我今天驾驶的船  
But West Wind was a much more modest craft  

43  
00:02:40,360 --> 00:02:42,680  
要简陋得多。  
than the one I'm sailing today.  

44  
00:02:44,800 --> 00:02:49,280  
游艇运动在维多利亚时代真正兴起，  
It was in Victorian times that the sport of yachting really took off,  

45  
00:02:49,280 --> 00:02:53,480  
当时长达百英尺的游艇配备全职船员  
when yachts of up to a hundred feet in length, with a full-time crew  

46  
00:02:53,480 --> 00:02:55,440  
和所有现代化便利设施，  
and every modern convenience,  

47  
00:02:55,440 --> 00:02:58,600  
航行在这片避风水域。  
sailed these sheltered waters.  

48  
00:02:58,600 --> 00:03:01,720  
早期，克莱德湾的游艇活动仅限于  
In the early days, yachting on the Clyde was restricted  

49  
00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:03,280  
苏格兰的超级富豪。  
to Scotland's super-rich.  

50  
00:03:03,280 --> 00:03:07,720  
那些在工业革命中积累巨额财富的人，  
Men who'd made an absolute fortune from the Industrial Revolution,  

51  
00:03:07,720 --> 00:03:10,040  
俗话说，有钱就要炫耀。  
and if you've got it, flaunt it, they say.  

52  
00:03:10,040 --> 00:03:13,000  
还有什么比拥有一艘美丽的游艇  
And what better way of demonstrating your new-found  

53  
00:03:13,000 --> 00:03:16,080  
并参加比赛更能展示你新获得的  
wealth and social position than by owning and racing  

54  
00:03:16,080 --> 00:03:18,320  
财富和社会地位呢？  
a beautiful yacht?  

55  
00:03:24,800 --> 00:03:27,560  
著名的苏格兰大亨托马斯·立顿爵士  
The famous Scottish magnate Sir Thomas Lipton  

56  
00:03:27,560 --> 00:03:30,320  
热爱在这片水域航行，  
loved sailing in these waters  

57  
00:03:30,320 --> 00:03:33,000  
而未来的国王爱德华王子  
and Prince Edward, the future King,  

58  
00:03:33,000 --> 00:03:37,000  
也曾驾驶他的游艇“不列颠尼亚号”沿此海岸航行。  
sailed his yacht Britannia along this coast.  

59  
00:03:37,000 --> 00:03:41,440  
到19世纪末，克莱德湾已成为富人的游乐场，  
By the end of the 19th century, the Clyde had become a playground  

60  
00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:46,200  
沿岸众多城镇和村庄也因此繁荣起来。  
for the rich, and its many coastal towns and villages flourished.  

61  
00:03:48,280 --> 00:03:51,000  
我的第一站是比特岛，  
My first destination is the Isle of Bute,  

62  
00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:53,760  
以及一个小镇，它被改造成  
and a small town that was transformed into  

63  
00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:58,080  
西海岸最独特的度假胜地之一。  
one of the most exclusive holiday destinations on the west coast.  

64  
00:03:58,080 --> 00:03:59,320  
罗斯西。  
Rothesay.  

65  
00:04:03,440 --> 00:04:06,000  
根据《布莱克指南》记载，  
According to Black's,  

66  
00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:08,200  
罗斯西“坐落在一个深湾的顶端，  
Rothesay is "agreeably situated  

67  
00:04:08,200 --> 00:04:10,720  
“地理位置宜人，海湾提供了  
"at the head of a deep bay, which affords  

68  
00:04:10,720 --> 00:04:13,040  
“在任何风向下都安全的锚地”。  
"a safe anchorage ground in any wind".  

69  
00:04:14,240 --> 00:04:15,280  
听起来很理想。  
Sounds ideal.  

70  
00:04:19,880 --> 00:04:22,320  
在很大程度上，罗斯西被视为  
To a large extent, Rothesay was considered  

71  
00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:25,840  
一个高档度假胜地，早期旅游资料  
a posh resort, and early tourist literature  

72  
00:04:25,840 --> 00:04:30,320  
热衷于宣扬该镇与皇室的联系。  
was keen to trumpet the town's royal connections.  

73  
00:04:32,120 --> 00:04:36,480  
如果说早期维多利亚时代的游客有什么喜爱的，  
If there was one thing that early Victorian tourists loved,  

74  
00:04:36,480 --> 00:04:37,680  
那就是历史，  
it was history,  

75  
00:04:37,680 --> 00:04:41,160  
而罗斯西可以自豪地拥有一座城堡，  
and Rothesay could boast a castle which had been a favourite  

76  
00:04:41,160 --> 00:04:43,840  
曾是早期苏格兰国王的最爱。  
with early Scottish kings.  

77  
00:04:46,440 --> 00:04:51,240  
重现城堡著名历史场景的表演  
Re-enactments of scenes from the castle's famous history  

78  
00:04:51,240 --> 00:04:53,360  
是吸引游客的热门项目。  
were a popular attraction for visitors.  

79  
00:04:53,360 --> 00:04:56,840  
这里，我们看到罗伯特·布鲁斯之女的婚礼，  
Here, we see the marriage of Robert the Bruce's daughter,  

80  
00:04:56,840 --> 00:05:00,040  
以及斯图亚特王朝的建立。  
and the founding of the Stuart dynasty.  

81  
00:05:01,120 --> 00:05:04,520  
但吸引富裕游客的不只是历史。  
But it wasn't only history that brought the well-to-do tourist.  

82  
00:05:04,520 --> 00:05:07,720  
还有迷你高尔夫，  
There was also miniature golf,  

83  
00:05:07,720 --> 00:05:09,800  
维多利亚时代认为这项运动  
which the Victorians deemed a much more  

84  
00:05:09,800 --> 00:05:12,080  
更适合女性参与。  
appropriate game for women.  

85  
00:05:13,280 --> 00:05:15,840  
罗斯西似乎应有尽有。  
Rothesay seemed to have it all.  

86  
00:05:15,840 --> 00:05:18,680  
何必远赴海外，  
Why bother travelling abroad  

87  
00:05:18,680 --> 00:05:21,800  
当这一切就在你家门口？  
when you've got all this on your doorstep?  

88  
00:05:21,800 --> 00:05:24,920  
看，棕榈树！  
Look, palm trees!  

89  
00:05:28,960 --> 00:05:30,600  
罗斯西的主要卖点  
Rothesay's main selling point  

90  
00:05:30,600 --> 00:05:32,600  
是其气候，  
was its climate,  

91  
00:05:32,600 --> 00:05:37,240  
《布莱克指南》热情地描述为“温和宜人”。  
which Black's enthusiastically describes as "mild and genial."  

92  
00:05:37,240 --> 00:05:40,840  
这或许难以置信，但早期游客被鼓励  
It may seem hard to believe, but early visitors were encouraged  

93  
00:05:40,840 --> 00:05:46,080  
将罗斯西的天气与遥远异域的气候相比较。  
to compare the weather of Rothesay with exotic and far-flung locations.  

94  
00:05:46,080 --> 00:05:51,320  
令人难以置信的是，该镇自诩为“苏格兰的马德拉”。  
Incredibly, the town promoted itself as the Madeira of Scotland.  

95  
00:05:53,240 --> 00:05:57,480  
罗斯西的气候不仅被认为是亚热带，  
Not only was the climate of Rothesay thought to be subtropical,  

96  
00:05:57,480 --> 00:06:01,360  
还被认为具有非凡的健康益处，  
it was also considered to have extraordinary health benefits  

97  
00:06:01,360 --> 00:06:03,160  
因此，  
and, for this reason,  

98  
00:06:03,160 --> 00:06:07,040  
这里被选为苏格兰第一家水疗中心的所在地，  
was chosen as the location for Scotland's first ever hydro,  

99  
00:06:07,040 --> 00:06:09,960  
相当于维多利亚时代的健康农场。  
the Victorian equivalent of a health farm.  

100  
00:06:15,040 --> 00:06:20,160  
格伦伯恩酒店曾被称为格伦伯恩水疗中心，  
The Glenburn Hotel was once known as the Glenburn Hydropathic,  

101  
00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:23,600  
于1843年开业。  
opening its doors for business in 1843.  

102  
00:06:24,960 --> 00:06:28,520  
格伦伯恩至今仍是一座宏伟而令人印象深刻的建筑，  
The Glenburn is still a grand and impressive building  

103  
00:06:28,520 --> 00:06:31,400  
散发着一种庄重的宁静，  
and exudes a sort of stately calm,  

104  
00:06:31,400 --> 00:06:35,000  
以及吸引体面人士的端庄气质。  
and douceness that appealed to respectable people.  

105  
00:06:37,920 --> 00:06:40,720  
水疗法，又称冷水疗法，  
Hydropathy, otherwise known as the cold water cure,  

106  
00:06:40,720 --> 00:06:44,240  
在维多利亚时代的苏格兰极为流行。  
became hugely popular in Victorian Scotland.  

107  
00:06:44,240 --> 00:06:47,760  
水疗治疗基于各种沐浴  
Hydro treatments were based on a variety of bathing  

108  
00:06:47,760 --> 00:06:49,320  
和浸泡疗法。  
and dunking cures.  

109  
00:06:49,320 --> 00:06:54,880  
结合新鲜空气、运动并严格禁酒，  
This, combined with fresh air, exercise and strictly no alcohol,  

110  
00:06:54,880 --> 00:06:58,760  
旨在让体弱的患者恢复健康体魄。  
was meant to restore ailing patients to robust health.  

111  
00:07:00,520 --> 00:07:03,200  
对中产阶级维多利亚人来说，时间宝贵，  
For middle-class Victorians, time was precious,  

112  
00:07:03,200 --> 00:07:06,920  
甚至休闲时间也必须有所裨益。  
and even leisure time had to be beneficial in some way.  

113  
00:07:06,920 --> 00:07:09,920  
因此，还有什么比去一个能改善身体健康、  
So what better way of justifying having a holiday  

114  
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心灵和道德的地方度假更好的理由呢？  
than by going somewhere that would improve the health of your body,  

115  
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your mind and your morals?  

116  
00:07:16,240 --> 00:07:18,600  
为了了解更多，  
To find out more,  

117  
00:07:18,600 --> 00:07:22,640  
我前来会见历史学家阿拉斯泰尔·杜里博士。  
I've come to meet historian Dr Alastair Durie.  

118  
00:07:22,640 --> 00:07:25,440  
阿拉斯泰尔，格伦伯恩酒店是  
Alastair, the Glenburn Hotel is  

119  
00:07:25,440 --> 00:07:28,400  
一座相当令人印象深刻的建筑，这让我想到  
a pretty impressive building, and it implies to me  

120  
00:07:28,400 --> 00:07:30,320  
在维多利亚时代，  
that in Victorian times,  

121  
00:07:30,320 --> 00:07:33,480  
水疗度假确实是一件很受欢迎的事情。  
taking a hydro holiday was really a popular thing to do.  

122  
00:07:33,480 --> 00:07:34,600  
确实如此。  
It was.  

123  
00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:38,040  
这一理念于19世纪中叶从奥地利传入，  
It was an idea that came in from Austria in the mid-19th century,  

124  
00:07:38,040 --> 00:07:41,040  
苏格兰人如鱼得水般接受了它。  
and the Scots took to it like a duck to water.  

125  
00:07:41,040 --> 00:07:44,760  
他们建造了15至18座大型酒店，  
They built 15 to 18 very large hotels,  

126  
00:07:44,760 --> 00:07:47,960  
其主要目的是通过水疗法  
whose main purpose is to cure people  

127  
00:07:47,960 --> 00:07:50,160  
治疗人们。  
and treat them through hydropathy.  

128  
00:07:50,160 --> 00:07:54,480  
这是一套沐浴系统，一套淋浴系统，  
It's a system of baths, it's a system of showers,  

129  
00:07:54,480 --> 00:07:56,200  
一套按摩系统。  
it's a system of massage.  

130  
00:07:56,200 --> 00:07:58,760  
你的治疗只有水，仅此而已。  
Your treatment is water and water only.

131  
00:07:58,760 --> 00:08:04,240  
你的饮食包括肉类和鱼类，但完全不能饮酒。  
Your diet is meat and fish, but no drink whatsoever.  

132  
00:08:04,240 --> 00:08:05,760  
好的。  
Right.  

133  
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维多利亚时代一些非常重要的人物  
And some very significant figures  

134  
00:08:08,040 --> 00:08:11,120  
都接受过水疗治疗。  
in the Victorian world underwent hydropathy.  

135  
00:08:11,120 --> 00:08:14,240  
比如查尔斯·达尔文、丁尼生，  
For instance, Charles Darwin, Tennyson,  

136  
00:08:14,240 --> 00:08:17,680  
以及从克里米亚归来的弗洛伦斯·南丁格尔。  
Florence Nightingale when she comes back from the Crimea.  

137  
00:08:17,680 --> 00:08:21,400  
这些重要人物都说这对他们有好处。  
These are important people and they're saying it's good for them.  

138  
00:08:21,400 --> 00:08:23,280  
为什么对你就不行呢？  
Why shouldn't it be good for you?  

139  
00:08:23,280 --> 00:08:25,920  
所以这是维多利亚时代的名人代言？  
So it's got a Victorian celebrity endorsement?  

140  
00:08:25,920 --> 00:08:26,960  
完全正确。  
Absolutely.  

141  
00:08:26,960 --> 00:08:29,600  
好吧，我觉得我需要一些康复治疗。  
Well, I think I'm in need of some remedial care.  

142  
00:08:29,600 --> 00:08:31,160  
我看得出来。  
I can see you are.  

143  
00:08:32,640 --> 00:08:35,320  
为了理解为什么维多利亚人  
So, to try and understand just why  

144  
00:08:35,320 --> 00:08:38,400  
如此热衷于水疗法，  
the Victorians were so keen on hydropathy,  

145  
00:08:38,400 --> 00:08:40,520  
我自愿亲身体验  
I volunteered to experience  

146  
00:08:40,520 --> 00:08:44,240  
其中最受欢迎的一种治疗方式。  
one of the most popular treatments first-hand.  

147  
00:08:44,240 --> 00:08:45,800  
湿布包裹疗法。  
The wet sheet.  

148  
00:08:47,280 --> 00:08:48,520  
我真幸运！  
Lucky me!  

149  
00:08:48,520 --> 00:08:52,760  
这是水疗的核心疗法。  
This is the centrepiece of hydropathy.  

150  
00:08:52,760 --> 00:08:56,280  
用冰冷潮湿的床单包裹你……  
Wrapping you in cold, wet sheets...  

151  
00:08:56,280 --> 00:08:58,560  
哦！太可怕了。  
Oh! That's ghastly.  

152  
00:08:58,560 --> 00:09:01,440  
……像木乃伊一样。现在简会帮你操作。  
..like a mummy. And Jane will now do that.  

153  
00:09:01,440 --> 00:09:04,280  
啊！这太难受了。有什么意义？  
Aargh! This is hideous. What's the point?  

154  
00:09:04,280 --> 00:09:07,000  
意义在于它会让你出汗，  
The point is that it's going to get you to perspire,  

155  
00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:11,720  
汗水会将体内的毒素排出，  
and the perspiration will bring the badness out of your system  

156  
00:09:11,720 --> 00:09:15,080  
并打开毛孔呼吸新鲜空气。  
and open your pores for fresh air.  

157  
00:09:15,080 --> 00:09:17,400  
这对你有好处。  
This is doing you good.  

158  
00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:18,840  
不，才不是！绝对不是。  
No, it's not! It's not.  

159  
00:09:18,840 --> 00:09:20,680  
你可能觉得不舒服，  
You may feel it's unpleasant,  

160  
00:09:20,680 --> 00:09:23,680  
但我们的目标是让你出汗。  
but our objective is to get you to perspire.  

161  
00:09:23,680 --> 00:09:27,200  
现在你在发抖，你的身体正在反应，  
At the moment, you're shivering, your body is reacting,  

162  
00:09:27,200 --> 00:09:29,960  
但这是你第一次体验这个过程。  
but this is your first experience of the process.  

163  
00:09:29,960 --> 00:09:31,880  
你试过这个吗，阿拉斯泰尔？  
Have you tried this, Alastair?  

164  
00:09:31,880 --> 00:09:35,680  
我认为让病人亲身体验这些更好……  
I believe it's far better for the invalid to experience these things...  

165  
00:09:35,680 --> 00:09:36,720  
好吧。好吧。  
Right. Right.  

166  
00:09:36,720 --> 00:09:40,080  
……而不是医生。但我们会等着看效果。  
..than the doctor. But we will wait and watch and see.  

167  
00:09:40,080 --> 00:09:42,560  
我无法想象这对我有任何好处。  
I can't imagine it'll do me any good whatsoever.  

168  
00:09:42,560 --> 00:09:44,840  
你只能相信成千上万  
You can only trust in the experience of  

169  
00:09:44,840 --> 00:09:48,520  
接受过这种治疗的人的经验，  
the many thousands of people who have experienced this treatment  

170  
00:09:48,520 --> 00:09:52,840  
他们受益良多，而且我可以说，抱怨比你少得多。  
to their benefit and, I may say, with much less complaint than you.  

171  
00:09:52,840 --> 00:09:54,840  
啊，但他们都已经去世了！现实点吧。  
Ah, but they're all dead! Let's face it.  

172  
00:09:54,840 --> 00:09:57,120  
我敢说你在加速我的死亡。  
You're hastening me on my way, I'm sure.  

173  
00:09:57,120 --> 00:09:59,400  
冷死了！  
It's freezing!  

174  
00:10:01,160 --> 00:10:03,200  
我们大约一小时后回来。  
We will return in an hour or so.  

175  
00:10:03,200 --> 00:10:04,440  
一小时？！  
An hour?!  

176  
00:10:04,440 --> 00:10:07,960  
我觉得我的核心体温已经危险地下降了。  
I think my core body temperature has dropped dangerously.  

177  
00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:11,240  
维多利亚时代的人可能对此趋之若鹜，  
'The Victorians may have lapped this up,  

178  
00:10:11,240 --> 00:10:14,080  
但花钱享受被湿毛巾包裹的“特权”  
'but paying for the privilege of being wrapped in  

179  
00:10:14,080 --> 00:10:17,480  
可不是我认为的乐趣。  
'soggy towels is not my idea of fun.  

180  
00:10:20,760 --> 00:10:24,360  
一位早期的水疗患者也这么认为。  
'And one early hydropathy patient agreed.'  

181  
00:10:24,360 --> 00:10:28,160  
“我被像果汁一样炖煮，像鼓一样敲打，  
"I have been stewed like a juice, beat on like a drum,  

182  
00:10:28,160 --> 00:10:30,120  
像煎饼一样拍打，  
"battered like a pancake,  

183  
00:10:30,120 --> 00:10:33,840  
像木乃伊一样被湿床单和毯子包裹。  
"and wrapped like a mummy in wet sheets and blankets.  

184  
00:10:33,840 --> 00:10:36,720  
“我觉得自己进了疯人院！”  
"My belief is that I am in a lunatic asylum!"  

185  
00:10:38,560 --> 00:10:39,840  
我完全同意。  
'I can only agree.'  

186  
00:10:39,840 --> 00:10:41,800  
冷啊！  
Brrrrr!  

187  
00:10:43,520 --> 00:10:45,760  
趁医生不在房间，  
So while the good doctor is out of the room,  

188  
00:10:45,760 --> 00:10:48,480  
我迅速溜走去寻找  
I quickly slip away in search of  

189  
00:10:48,480 --> 00:10:50,880  
罗斯西一处更奇特的景点，  
one of Rothesay's more curious attractions,  

190  
00:10:50,880 --> 00:10:54,600  
藏在你最意想不到的地方。  
tucked away where you'd least expect it.  

191  
00:10:59,480 --> 00:11:04,000  
通常你不会带着相机进公共厕所，  
Now, you wouldn't normally take a camera into a public toilet,  

192  
00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:07,760  
除非你想被抓，我可不想。  
unless you wanted to get arrested, which I don't.  

193  
00:11:07,760 --> 00:11:11,720  
所以，在继续之前，我要先检查门后  
So, before I go any further, I'm just going to check behind this door  

194  
00:11:11,720 --> 00:11:14,520  
确保不会有人突然出现  
to make sure there isn't anyone inside  

195  
00:11:14,520 --> 00:11:16,960  
而尴尬不已。  
about to be seriously embarrassed.  

196  
00:11:18,800 --> 00:11:20,040  
有人吗？  
Hello?  

197  
00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:22,960  
应该没问题。  
I think we're OK.  

198  
00:11:27,360 --> 00:11:29,680  
现在我可以展示它全部的，  
I can now reveal all in its quite,  

199  
00:11:29,680 --> 00:11:32,680  
嗯，非凡的壮丽。  
well, exceptional magnificence.  

200  
00:11:32,680 --> 00:11:35,480  
这是一个真正的陶瓷宫殿。  
It's a veritable porcelain palace.  

201  
00:11:35,480 --> 00:11:38,240  
小便池的神殿。  
A shrine to the urinal.  

202  
00:11:42,040 --> 00:11:45,120  
这些华丽的厕所建于1899年，  
These splendid toilets were built in 1899  

203  
00:11:45,120 --> 00:11:47,520  
确实非同凡响——  
and are really quite something -  

204  
00:11:47,520 --> 00:11:50,320  
14个小便池，  
14 urinals,  

205  
00:11:50,320 --> 00:11:52,360  
每个顶部都镶嵌大理石。  
each crowned with marble.  

206  
00:11:52,360 --> 00:11:55,680  
墙壁和地面完全覆盖  
Walls and floors entirely clad  

207  
00:11:55,680 --> 00:11:59,840  
装饰性瓷砖……  
in decorative ceramic tiles...  

208  
00:11:59,840 --> 00:12:02,160  
玻璃水箱通过闪亮的铜管  
and glass-sided cisterns feeding water  

209  
00:12:02,160 --> 00:12:05,880  
供水。  
through shining copper pipes.  

210  
00:12:07,680 --> 00:12:10,200  
这种奢华让我想说，  
What all this opulence says to me  

211  
00:12:10,200 --> 00:12:12,280  
“哇！”  
is, "Wow!"  

212  
00:12:12,280 --> 00:12:13,800  
想象一下一百年前  
Now, just imagine coming here  

213  
00:12:13,800 --> 00:12:15,680  
第一次来到这里，  
a hundred years ago for the first time  

214  
00:12:15,680 --> 00:12:18,520  
可能是一位海外游客。  
as a tourist, perhaps from overseas.  

215  
00:12:18,520 --> 00:12:20,120  
你会怎么想？  
What would you think?  

216  
00:12:20,120 --> 00:12:24,080  
你可能会想，如果建造这个的社会  
Well, you might think if the society that built this  

217  
00:12:24,080 --> 00:12:27,040  
技术如此先进，能够创造出  
was so technologically advanced that it could create  

218  
00:12:27,040 --> 00:12:30,680  
一座宫殿来满足人类最基本的需求，  
a palace, really, to meet a very basic human need,  

219  
00:12:30,680 --> 00:12:33,440  
那它真正的宫殿会是什么样子？  
then what would its real palaces be like?  

220  
00:12:33,440 --> 00:12:39,080  
它的伟大市政建筑、战舰、战争机器又会如何？  
Its great civic buildings, its battleships, its engines of war?  

221  
00:12:39,080 --> 00:12:43,680  
在厕所里产生这种想法真是令人敬畏。  
And that's a really awe-inspiring thought to have in, in a loo.  

222  
00:12:49,040 --> 00:12:52,560  
事实上，这种宏伟设计不仅限于  
Indeed, such grand designs were not confined  

223  
00:12:52,560 --> 00:12:55,280  
像公共厕所这样简陋的建筑。  
to humble buildings like public conveniences.  

224  
00:12:56,560 --> 00:12:59,280  
在镇外就有一个终极范例  
And just outside the town is the ultimate example  

225  
00:12:59,280 --> 00:13:04,000  
展现了维多利亚时代的雄心和智慧。  
of Victorian ambition and ingenuity.  

226  
00:13:05,920 --> 00:13:07,960  
这就是斯图尔特山庄。  
This is Mount Stuart House.  

227  
00:13:09,120 --> 00:13:12,560  
建于1877年，它浓缩了  
Built in 1877, it's a distillation  

228  
00:13:12,560 --> 00:13:16,040  
维多利亚人对想象中的过去的痴迷，  
of the Victorian obsession for an imagined past,  

229  
00:13:16,040 --> 00:13:19,040  
同时融合了当时的所有现代便利设施。  
combined with all the mod cons of the age.  

230  
00:13:21,240 --> 00:13:24,920  
这是苏格兰第一座通电的住宅，  
It was the first house in Scotland to have electricity,  

231  
00:13:24,920 --> 00:13:29,800  
也是世界上第一座拥有加热游泳池的住宅。  
and the first house in the world to have a heated swimming pool.  

232  
00:13:29,800 --> 00:13:34,600  
这是一个技术巨变的时代，  
This was an era of great technological changes,  

233  
00:13:34,600 --> 00:13:37,600  
而当时的一项特别进步  
and one particular advance taking place at this time  

234  
00:13:37,600 --> 00:13:39,240  
将对罗斯西这样的海滨度假胜地  
would have a huge impact  

235  
00:13:39,240 --> 00:13:42,360  
产生巨大影响。  
on seaside resorts like Rothesay.  

236  
00:13:42,360 --> 00:13:45,520  
就像现代游客一样，维多利亚时代的游客  
Just like modern visitors, Victorian tourists  

237  
00:13:45,520 --> 00:13:48,440  
来到像这样壮观的地方时  
coming to a spectacular location like this  

238  
00:13:48,440 --> 00:13:52,560  
也想带件纪念品回家，向有文化的朋友们展示  
wanted to take home a souvenir to show their cultured friends  

239  
00:13:52,560 --> 00:13:54,200  
他们去过哪里。  
just where they'd been.  

240  
00:13:54,200 --> 00:13:57,640  
现在我们拍照就能做到这一点，  
Now, we do this all the time whenever we take a photograph,  

241  
00:13:57,640 --> 00:14:00,560  
但在那时，相机非常罕见。  
but back then, cameras were very rare.  

242  
00:14:00,560 --> 00:14:03,960  
尽管如此，维多利亚时代的游客仍能享受  
Despite this, Victorian tourists were still able to enjoy  

243  
00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:06,560  
摄影的乐趣和魔力。  
the delights and magic of photography.  

244  
00:14:09,400 --> 00:14:11,600  
幻灯放映会通过投影  
Magic lantern shows, which projected  

245  
00:14:11,600 --> 00:14:15,400  
玻璃幻灯片，极为流行，  
glass photographic slides, were extremely popular,  

246  
00:14:15,400 --> 00:14:18,760  
它们为我们提供了一个窥探失落世界的绝佳视角。  
and they provide an amazing insight into a lost world.  

247  
00:14:22,760 --> 00:14:24,040  
马克·巴特沃斯，  
Mark Butterworth,  

248  
00:14:24,040 --> 00:14:26,560  
他拥有大量维多利亚时代的摄影作品，  
who has a vast library of Victorian photography,  

249  
00:14:26,560 --> 00:14:29,360  
将向我展示一系列  
is going to show me a selection of images  

250  
00:14:29,360 --> 00:14:32,840  
曾让19世纪观众欣喜若狂的图像。  
that would have delighted a 19th-century audience.  

251  
00:14:34,000 --> 00:14:35,880  
马克，我认得这个景色。  
Now, Mark, I recognise that view.  

252  
00:14:35,880 --> 00:14:38,320  
这是罗斯西。  
This is Rothesay.  

253  
00:14:38,320 --> 00:14:41,200  
大概在1890年代初期。  
Probably in the early 1890s.  

254  
00:14:41,200 --> 00:14:43,640  
那时候人们不买明信片。  
They didn't buy postcards in those days.  

255  
00:14:43,640 --> 00:14:47,120  
英国当时根本没有明信片产业，  
There was no postcard industry whatsoever in the UK,  

256  
00:14:47,120 --> 00:14:49,240  
所以照片和幻灯片是  
so prints and magic lantern slides were  

257  
00:14:49,240 --> 00:14:52,640  
人们购买的主要摄影纪念品。  
the principle photographic souvenirs that people would buy.  

258  
00:14:52,640 --> 00:14:56,120  
所以在维多利亚时代，如果你来到罗斯西，  
So back in Victorian times, if you came into Rothesay,  

259  
00:14:56,120 --> 00:14:59,120  
从码头下船，你会看到许多摊位  
got off at the pier, you'd be confronted with lots of stalls  

260  
00:14:59,120 --> 00:15:01,720  
出售纪念品和摄影纪念物，  
selling souvenirs and photographic memorabilia  

261  
00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:03,160  
你可以买一张幻灯片。  
and you could buy a slide.

262  
00:15:03,160 --> 00:15:05,000  
没错。  
That's right.  

263  
00:15:06,560 --> 00:15:09,280  
这张幻灯片很有意思。  
So this is an interesting slide.  

264  
00:15:09,280 --> 00:15:11,520  
在画面左侧，你可以看到  
On the left of the image there, you can see  

265  
00:15:11,520 --> 00:15:14,160  
有辆马车，旁边站着个人。  
there's a carriage with a man standing next to it.  

266  
00:15:14,160 --> 00:15:16,960  
那其实是摄影师的暗房。  
That's actually the photographer's dark room.  

267  
00:15:16,960 --> 00:15:18,400  
嗯哼。  
Uh-huh.  

268  
00:15:18,400 --> 00:15:20,560  
摄影师在拍摄前才制作好  
The photographer actually made the plate  

269  
00:15:20,560 --> 00:15:22,640  
底片。  
moments before he took the photograph.  

270  
00:15:22,640 --> 00:15:25,600  
拍完后必须立即冲洗，  
And it had to be developed as soon as he'd taken the photograph,  

271  
00:15:25,600 --> 00:15:29,320  
关键技巧在于每次都能制作出  
and one of the great skills was being able to consistently  

272  
00:15:29,320 --> 00:15:32,360  
质量稳定的底片，  
make your plates to give you the same quality every time,  

273  
00:15:32,360 --> 00:15:34,520  
这相当有挑战性。  
and that was really quite a challenge.  

274  
00:15:34,520 --> 00:15:37,240  
工作条件相当艰苦。  
You're working in quite difficult conditions.  

275  
00:15:37,240 --> 00:15:41,120  
太神奇了，因为当时这可是尖端技术。  
It's amazing, cos at that time, this was cutting-edge technology.  

276  
00:15:41,120 --> 00:15:42,480  
没错，确实如此。  
Oh, absolutely, yeah.  

277  
00:15:51,360 --> 00:15:54,280  
那时人们没有相机，所以幻灯机  
People didn't have cameras in those days, so magic lanterns  

278  
00:15:54,280 --> 00:15:57,720  
成了展示风景的方式。  
were a way of showing people the views they'd experienced.  

279  
00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:01,120  
但你不必拥有幻灯片  
But you didn't actually have to own a magic lantern slide  

280  
00:16:01,120 --> 00:16:02,920  
或投影仪就能观看。  
or a projector to have a show.  

281  
00:16:02,920 --> 00:16:04,960  
没错。有几家公司，  
That's right. There were several firms,  

282  
00:16:04,960 --> 00:16:06,640  
其中一些规模很大，  
some of them very big companies,  

283  
00:16:06,640 --> 00:16:09,640  
出租幻灯片，甚至出租幻灯机。  
that hired out slides, or even hired out lanterns.  

284  
00:16:09,640 --> 00:16:13,280  
还附带讲解笔记，这很常见。  
They'd come with a set of lecture notes, and that was very common.  

285  
00:16:13,280 --> 00:16:14,520  
太神奇了。  
That's amazing.  

286  
00:16:14,520 --> 00:16:16,440  
就像现在在线租DVD一样。  
It's like ordering a DVD online now.  

287  
00:16:16,440 --> 00:16:20,680  
完全一样的过程，但这是130、140年前。  
Exactly the same process, but, er, 130, 140 years ago.  

288  
00:16:20,680 --> 00:16:24,120  
像这样的幻灯放映会  
Now, how popular were magic lantern shows like this,  

289  
00:16:24,120 --> 00:16:27,240  
展示你给我的这些幻灯片，有多流行？  
to show slides like the ones you're showing me?  

290  
00:16:27,240 --> 00:16:30,240  
非常流行。这是一种常见的娱乐形式。  
Very popular. This was a very common form of entertainment.  

291  
00:16:30,240 --> 00:16:33,520  
19世纪末，你要么去剧院，  
Towards the end of the 19th century, you either went to the theatre,  

292  
00:16:33,520 --> 00:16:36,280  
要么去音乐厅，要么去看幻灯放映会……  
you went to the music hall, or you went to a magic lantern...  

293  
00:16:36,280 --> 00:16:37,320  
嗯哼。  
Uh-huh.  

294  
00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:41,160  
……表演。看到这些幻灯片可能会激发你去旅游。  
..performance. Seeing slides like this might encourage you to visit.  

295  
00:16:43,560 --> 00:16:45,320  
他们确实去了。  
And visit, they did.  

296  
00:16:45,320 --> 00:16:48,680  
到了世纪之交，克莱德湾不再是  
By the turn of the century, the Clyde was no longer  

297  
00:16:48,680 --> 00:16:50,800  
富裕游客的专属地。  
the preserve of wealthy tourists.  

298  
00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:52,960  
大众旅游时代开始了。  
The age of mass tourism had begun.  

299  
00:16:56,280 --> 00:16:58,760  
我继续前往坎布雷岛，  
I'm continuing my journey to the Isle of Cumbrae  

300  
00:16:58,760 --> 00:17:02,640  
探索沿海城镇和村庄如何因另一项技术进步  
to find out how coastal towns and villages were transformed  

301  
00:17:02,640 --> 00:17:05,840  
而改变。  
by another technological advance.  

302  
00:17:05,840 --> 00:17:07,280  
蒸汽船。  
The steamer.  

303  
00:17:10,400 --> 00:17:13,280  
这段旅程的同伴是  
Joining me for this leg of my grand tour is  

304  
00:17:13,280 --> 00:17:15,880  
蒸汽船爱好者伊恩·奎因。  
steaming enthusiast Iain Quinn.  

305  
00:17:15,880 --> 00:17:19,320  
伊恩，据我所知，蒸汽船始于克莱德湾。  
Iain, as I understand it, steaming really started here on the Clyde.  

306  
00:17:19,320 --> 00:17:24,520  
确实如此，这要归功于亨利·贝尔  
It certainly did and it was down to one man, Henry Bell,  

307  
00:17:24,520 --> 00:17:27,000  
和他的小桨轮蒸汽船“彗星号”。  
and the little paddle steamer the Comet.  

308  
00:17:27,000 --> 00:17:29,360  
欧洲第一艘商用蒸汽船。  
Europe's first commercial steam ship.  

309  
00:17:29,360 --> 00:17:31,880  
“彗星号”的灵感是什么？  
What was the inspiration behind the Comet?  

310  
00:17:31,880 --> 00:17:34,040  
贝尔是赫伦斯堡的酒店老板，  
Bell was a hotel owner in Helensburgh  

311  
00:17:34,040 --> 00:17:36,920  
他看到这片美丽的海湾后说：  
and he saw this wonderful estuary and said,  

312  
00:17:36,920 --> 00:17:41,280  
“用蒸汽船载人游览是最好的方式。”  
"The best way to take people down is by steam ship."  

313  
00:17:41,280 --> 00:17:44,360  
“彗星号”于1812年8月10日下水。  
The Comet was launched on the 10th of August, 1812.  

314  
00:17:44,360 --> 00:17:48,400  
克莱德湾首次响起了桨轮的声响。  
The sound of the paddle was heard down the Clyde for the first time.  

315  
00:17:48,400 --> 00:17:51,240  
所以说，蒸汽船旅游的整个产业  
So really, the whole business of pleasure steaming  

316  
00:17:51,240 --> 00:17:52,360  
始于克莱德湾。  
began on the Clyde.  

317  
00:17:52,360 --> 00:17:53,400  
没错。  
It did.  

318  
00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:57,040  
1850、1860年代，它真正开始兴起。  
The 1850s, 1860s, it had really started to take off.  

319  
00:17:57,040 --> 00:17:59,480  
蒸汽船变得更大一些。  
Steamers were getting a bit bigger.  

320  
00:17:59,480 --> 00:18:01,440  
动力更强一些，  
Speed was getting a bit more powerful,  

321  
00:18:01,440 --> 00:18:04,360  
一天内可以走得更远。  
so you could then travel a bit further in a day.  

322  
00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:07,520  
当时有多少蒸汽船在这里运营？  
How many steamers would have been plying their trade here?  

323  
00:18:07,520 --> 00:18:09,440  
到1880年代，大约有  
By the 1880s, you would have had  

324  
00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:10,560  
40艘，甚至更多。  
about 40, maybe more.  

325  
00:18:10,560 --> 00:18:13,240  
这是尖端技术。这是新事物。这是未来。  
This was cutting edge. This was new. This was the future.  

326  
00:18:13,240 --> 00:18:14,760  
是的。这是未来，  
Oh, yes. This was the future,  

327  
00:18:14,760 --> 00:18:17,240  
到了1920、1930年代，  
and by the 1920s and the 1930s,  

328  
00:18:17,240 --> 00:18:20,000  
一天内可以往返整个克莱德湾。  
you could travel the whole Clyde and back in a day.  

329  
00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:23,520  
远离肮脏、  
It would have been lovely to have got away from the dirty,  

330  
00:18:23,520 --> 00:18:26,320  
臭气熏天的城市，来到克莱德湾呼吸新鲜空气。  
smelly city to the fresh air of the Firth of Clyde.  

331  
00:18:31,600 --> 00:18:35,520  
随着蒸汽船的到来，工人们也来了，他们充分利用  
With the steamers came the workers, who took full advantage  

332  
00:18:35,520 --> 00:18:38,560  
这个机会逃离他们生活和劳作的城市  
of the chance to escape from the cities  

333  
00:18:38,560 --> 00:18:42,680  
和工厂。  
and factories where they lived and toiled.  

334  
00:18:42,680 --> 00:18:44,680  
随着蒸汽船定期运营，  
With a regular steamer service,  

335  
00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:47,400  
坎布雷岛上的米尔波特迅速成为  
Millport, here on the Isle of Cumbrae, rapidly became  

336  
00:18:47,400 --> 00:18:52,040  
维多利亚时代一日游游客的最爱目的地。  
a favourite destination for Victorian day trippers.  

337  
00:18:53,360 --> 00:18:58,520  
我的指南书《布莱克》将米尔波特描述为“格拉斯哥居民  
My guide book, Black's, describes Millport as "one of the great  

338  
00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:02,920  
“主要的夏季度假胜地”，并建议游客  
"summer resorts of the inhabitants of Glasgow," and advises travellers  

339  
00:19:02,920 --> 00:19:08,160  
该镇人口“夏季因游客增加三倍”。  
that the town's population is "trebled by visitors in the summer".  

340  
00:19:08,160 --> 00:19:10,760  
他们来寻找乐趣，  
They came looking for a bit of fun  

341  
00:19:10,760 --> 00:19:13,320  
暂时逃离辛苦的生活，  
and a break from their hard-working lives,  

342  
00:19:13,320 --> 00:19:16,000  
但一周只有一天休息，  
but with only one day off a week,  

343  
00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:18,760  
他们尽量安排得满满当当。  
they tried to pack in as much as possible.  

344  
00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:22,760  
因此，或许可以预料，一些克莱德湾度假地开始  
So, perhaps predictably, some Clyde resorts began to acquire  

345  
00:19:22,760 --> 00:19:27,320  
因满是醉酒狂欢者而声名狼藉。  
a rather colourful reputation for being full of drunken revellers.  

346  
00:19:31,800 --> 00:19:35,280  
当然，工人阶级醉酒狂欢的行为  
Of course, the antics of working-class drunken revellers  

347  
00:19:35,280 --> 00:19:39,880  
肯定会让更体面的游客感到不适。  
was bound to upset the sensibilities of more respectable tourists.  

348  
00:19:39,880 --> 00:19:42,440  
尤其是那些喜欢水疗  
Especially the sort who enjoyed hydros  

349  
00:19:42,440 --> 00:19:45,600  
和阅读《苏格兰人报》的人。  
and who read The Scotsman newspaper.  

350  
00:19:47,240 --> 00:19:50,480  
这份备受尊敬的报纸刊登的一封信  
A letter printed in this esteemed journal  

351  
00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:53,800  
表达了所有正直人士的担忧。  
airs the concerns of all right-thinking people.  

352  
00:19:53,800 --> 00:19:56,920  
“我们遗憾地说，许多苏格兰工人阶级  
"We lament to say that very many Scotch people  

353  
00:19:56,920 --> 00:20:01,040  
“似乎无法享受不喝醉的假期。  
"of the working class seem incapable of enjoying a holiday  

354  
00:20:01,040 --> 00:20:02,880  
“一两次，我们发现自己被  
"without getting drunk.  

355  
00:20:02,880 --> 00:20:06,640  
“一群极其讨厌的醉酒者包围，  
"Once or twice, we have found ourselves crowded with  

356  
00:20:06,640 --> 00:20:10,560  
“包括女性。”  
"a most disagreeable mob of intoxicated persons,  

357  
00:20:10,560 --> 00:20:12,160  
"including women."  

358  
00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:16,480  
体面市民对工人们玩乐的场景  
Respectable citizens were getting upset at the sight  

359  
00:20:16,480 --> 00:20:19,600  
感到不满。  
of working people having fun.  

360  
00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:23,400  
他们要求结束吵闹和下流行为，向当局施压，  
Demanding an end to rowdy and lewd behaviour, they put pressure  

361  
00:20:23,400 --> 00:20:28,480  
遏制他们认为危险的道德滑坡。  
on the authorities to curb what they saw as a dangerous moral slide.  

362  
00:20:28,480 --> 00:20:31,120  
请给我一品脱最好的啤酒。  
Can I have a pint of best, please?  

363  
00:20:33,160 --> 00:20:35,920  
这导致了臭名昭著的《福布斯·麦肯齐法案》，  
This led to the infamous Forbes McKenzie Act,  

364  
00:20:35,920 --> 00:20:37,480  
规定周日关闭酒吧。  
which closed pubs on Sundays.  

365  
00:20:37,480 --> 00:20:38,520  
非常感谢。  
Thanks very much.  

366  
00:20:38,520 --> 00:20:40,240  
一周中唯一的休息日。  
The only day off in the week.  

367  
00:20:43,520 --> 00:20:46,000  
荒谬的是，限制向工人阶级  
Perversely, attempts to limit the sale of alcohol  

368  
00:20:46,000 --> 00:20:49,800  
出售酒精的尝试反而导致法律漏洞  
to the working classes resulted in the exploitation  

369  
00:20:49,800 --> 00:20:52,160  
被利用。  
of a loophole in the law.  

370  
00:20:52,160 --> 00:20:55,800  
结果——酒水巡游诞生了。  
The result - the launch of the booze cruise.  

371  
00:21:01,200 --> 00:21:04,720  
尽管新法律禁止周日出售酒精，  
Although the new law made it illegal to sell alcohol on Sundays,  

372  
00:21:04,720 --> 00:21:08,240  
但对真正的旅行者网开一面，  
it made a concession for bona-fide travellers,  

373  
00:21:08,240 --> 00:21:10,640  
允许他们购买酒水。  
who were allowed to buy a drink.  

374  
00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:16,600  
精明的商人和蒸汽船主很快  
Crafty businessmen and steamer owners were quick  

375  
00:21:16,600 --> 00:21:18,800  
将其视为向周日乘船的任何人  
to see this as an opportunity  

376  
00:21:18,800 --> 00:21:21,920  
出售酒水的机会。  
to sell booze to anyone sailing on a Sunday.  

377  
00:21:23,720 --> 00:21:25,400  
哦，快乐的日子。  
Oh, happy day.  

378  
00:21:25,400 --> 00:21:29,560  
突然之间，蒸汽船为工人们提供周日特惠，  
Suddenly, steamers were offering Sunday specials for the workers,  

379  
00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:32,640  
很快，所有人都开始“蒸汽”了。  
and soon, everyone was steamin'.  

380  
00:21:36,840 --> 00:21:41,120  
这些一日游不仅催生了用“蒸汽”形容醉酒者的说法，  
Not only did these day trips give rise to the expression 'steaming'  

381  
00:21:41,120 --> 00:21:43,320  
还让克莱德海岸  
to describe someone who's drunk,  

382  
00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:47,600  
变得更加受欢迎。  
it actually made the Clyde coast even more desirable.  

383  
00:21:50,840 --> 00:21:54,720  
或许记录这场巨大社会变革  
Perhaps the most vivid record of the massive social change  

384  
00:21:54,720 --> 00:21:58,440  
最生动的载体是海滨明信片。  
that was taking place is the seaside postcard.  

385  
00:21:58,440 --> 00:22:00,600  
我正与历史学家  
I'm meeting historian  

386  
00:22:00,600 --> 00:22:02,320  
兼明信片收藏家  
and postcard collector  

387  
00:22:02,320 --> 00:22:04,680  
埃里克·辛普森会面了解更多。  
Eric Simpson to find out more.  

388  
00:22:06,520 --> 00:22:09,680  
你的收藏非常精彩。它们很独特，  
You've got a wonderful collection of cards. They're unique,  

389  
00:22:09,680 --> 00:22:12,000  
因为它们提供了一个窥探过去的迷人窗口。  
because they provide a fascinating window on the past.  

390  
00:22:12,000 --> 00:22:15,080  
这些其实都是社会评论，特别是  
This is all social comment, really, and particularly  

391  
00:22:15,080 --> 00:22:18,200  
一些热情游客的习惯。  
the habits of some of the more enthusiastic tourists.

392  
00:22:18,200 --> 00:22:22,040  
这些小伙子看起来玩得很开心。  
Some chaps looking as if they're really enjoying themselves.  

393  
00:22:22,040 --> 00:22:24,280  
是的，"干燥天气有其影响"  
Yes, "The dry weather has its effects,"  

394  
00:22:24,280 --> 00:22:29,800  
所以每年某些时候，相当多的人  
so it was not unknown for fairly substantial numbers  

395  
00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:33,040  
给"水边度假"带来坏名声  
to give the doon-the-water holiday a bad reputation  

396  
00:22:33,040 --> 00:22:34,920  
并不罕见。  
at certain times of the year.  

397  
00:22:34,920 --> 00:22:36,320  
我的印象是  
The impression I get  

398  
00:22:36,320 --> 00:22:38,440  
总的来说  
is that generally speaking,  

399  
00:22:38,440 --> 00:22:41,160  
人们玩得很开心。他们在享受乐趣。  
people were having a good time. They were having fun.  

400  
00:22:41,160 --> 00:22:42,480  
- 是的，是的。  
- Yes, yes.  
- 很热闹。  
- It's lively.  

401  
00:22:42,480 --> 00:22:45,280  
所以工人阶级会买这些明信片寄给  
So working-class people would buy these and send them  

402  
00:22:45,280 --> 00:22:47,320  
- 家乡的朋友。  
- to their friends back home.  
- 是的。  
- Yes.  

403  
00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:48,760  
这不是给上流人士的，  
This is not for posh people,  

404  
00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:51,640  
他们可能会寄不同类型的明信片。  
who'd presumably send different sorts of postcard.  

405  
00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:53,560  
他们会寄，比如说，  
They'd send, for example,  

406  
00:22:53,560 --> 00:22:55,520  
米尔波特西湾的公园。  
the public park at West Bay in Millport.  

407  
00:22:55,520 --> 00:22:58,240  
- 极其无聊的照片！  
- Extremely dull photograph!  
- 他们会寄照片。  
- They'd send a photograph.  

408  
00:22:58,240 --> 00:23:00,440  
不得不说，与此形成鲜明对比的是，  
Now, in stark contrast, I have to say,  

409  
00:23:00,440 --> 00:23:02,280  
这些真的很有趣。  
these are really quite amusing.  

410  
00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:05,800  
非常生动的爱德华时代海边露骨明信片。  
Very colourful Edwardian risque, er, seaside cards.  

411  
00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:08,840  
这张是什么内容？  
And what have we got here?  

412  
00:23:08,840 --> 00:23:11,120  
"这水完全符合我的期待。"  
"The water is right up to my expectations."  

413  
00:23:11,120 --> 00:23:12,800  
我不明白什么意思。  
I've no idea what that means.  

414  
00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:14,800  
不，不。我也不懂。  
No, no. Neither have I.  

415  
00:23:14,800 --> 00:23:17,440  
但这些画面充满生活气息，太棒了。  
But there's so much life in these pictures, it's fantastic.  

416  
00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:22,880  
对我来说，这些明信片展现了普通人，  
What it says to me is these are ordinary folk,  

417  
00:23:22,880 --> 00:23:24,640  
劳动人民享受美好时光的场景。  
working folk having a good time.  

418  
00:23:24,640 --> 00:23:25,680  
是的。是的。  
Yes. Yes.  

419  
00:23:25,680 --> 00:23:28,440  
这正是克莱德湾闻名之处。  
And that's what the Clyde was famous for.  

420  
00:23:31,400 --> 00:23:33,800  
但吸引游客来到克莱德湾的  
But it wasn't just the fun and frolics  

421  
00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:37,080  
不仅是热闹海滨度假地的欢乐嬉戏  
of the busy seaside resorts that brought visitors here  

422  
00:23:37,080 --> 00:23:39,360  
to the Firth of Clyde.  

423  
00:23:39,360 --> 00:23:43,120  
仍有一些人寻求最初吸引游客来此的  
There were still some who sought the peace and tranquillity  

424  
00:23:43,120 --> 00:23:46,360  
宁静与祥和。  
that had first attracted tourists to these waters.  

425  
00:23:53,160 --> 00:23:55,280  
早期在克莱德湾驾驶游艇的人  
Those early yachtsmen on the Firth of Clyde  

426  
00:23:55,280 --> 00:23:57,040  
可能是炫耀财富的工业大亨，  
may have been industrial magnates  

427  
00:23:57,040 --> 00:24:00,120  
但渐渐地，  
showing off their wealth, but gradually,  

428  
00:24:00,120 --> 00:24:03,200  
随着更多经济型船只的建造和沿岸  
sailing became much more accessible, with more  

429  
00:24:03,200 --> 00:24:06,160  
航海俱乐部的兴起，航海变得更加亲民  
affordable boats being built, and sailing clubs  

430  
00:24:06,160 --> 00:24:08,440  
springing up along the coast.  

431  
00:24:09,560 --> 00:24:13,800  
我受邀登上复古游艇"卡米拉号"  
I've been invited aboard the vintage yacht Camilla  

432  
00:24:13,800 --> 00:24:16,240  
由比尔·英格利斯带我优雅地前往  
by Bill Inglis to travel in style  

433  
00:24:16,240 --> 00:24:18,440  
最终目的地。  
to my final destination.  

434  
00:24:20,560 --> 00:24:22,720  
比尔，"卡米拉号"是艘漂亮的船。  
Bill, Camilla, she's a beautiful boat.  

435  
00:24:22,720 --> 00:24:28,000  
她应该是克莱德湾航行中最古老的船只之一。  
She must be one of the oldest craft sailing on the Clyde.  

436  
00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:30,240  
据我所知确实如此。  
Er, so I'm led to believe.  

437  
00:24:30,240 --> 00:24:33,600  
"卡米拉号"是为泰纳布鲁亚赫的  
Camilla was commissioned for a  

438  
00:24:33,600 --> 00:24:37,800  
查尔斯·米勒先生定制，建于1894年。  
Mr Charles Millar of Tighnabruiach and built in 1894.  

439  
00:24:37,800 --> 00:24:40,880  
117岁高龄，状态相当不错。  
At 117, she's not doing badly.  

440  
00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:41,920  
嗯。  
Mmm.  

441  
00:24:41,920 --> 00:24:47,000  
但像任何117岁的老太太一样，她有点失禁。  
But like any old lady of 117, she's marginally incontinent.  

442  
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:48,200  
哦，不！  
Oh, no!  

443  
00:24:48,200 --> 00:24:49,920  
确实会漏水。  
She does leak.  

444  
00:24:49,920 --> 00:24:53,720  
因为克莱德湾的游艇历史始于  
Cos the story of yachting on the Clyde really begins with  

445  
00:24:53,720 --> 00:24:57,640  
工业革命时期富豪们的炫耀  
men of tremendous wealth from the Industrial Revolution  

446  
00:24:57,640 --> 00:24:58,880  
- 炫耀。  
- showing off.  
- 是的。  
- Yes.  

447  
00:24:58,880 --> 00:25:01,760  
巨型游艇。那是精英的玩物。  
In huge boats. That was for the elite.  

448  
00:25:01,760 --> 00:25:03,840  
这完全不同。  
This is something quite different.  

449  
00:25:03,840 --> 00:25:05,920  
什么样的人能负担得起  
What kind of person would have been able  

450  
00:25:05,920 --> 00:25:07,360  
这样的船？  
to afford a boat like this?  

451  
00:25:07,360 --> 00:25:11,280  
成功的店主、商人、工匠。  
A successful shopkeeper, businessman, tradesman.  

452  
00:25:11,280 --> 00:25:14,000  
我是说，她不像那些维多利亚时代的大游艇，  
I mean, she's not like the big Victorian yachts,  

453  
00:25:14,000 --> 00:25:17,280  
配备20名随时待命的付费船员。  
with a paid crew of 20 hands constantly kept available.  

454  
00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:20,800  
- 不是炫耀，不浮夸。  
- It's not showing off, it's not ostentatious.  
- 是的。  
- No.  

455  
00:25:20,800 --> 00:25:24,640  
你认为这是否标志着中等收入人士  
Do you think this is the beginning of perhaps the idea of  

456  
00:25:24,640 --> 00:25:28,120  
也能享受游艇生活的开端？  
yachting for a man of more modest income, do you think?  

457  
00:25:28,120 --> 00:25:29,920  
是的。哦，非常明显。  
Yes. Oh, very much so.  

458  
00:25:29,920 --> 00:25:31,080  
非常明显！  
Very much so!  

459  
00:25:32,840 --> 00:25:34,560  
对我来说，这是享受克莱德湾  
For me, this is the best way  

460  
00:25:34,560 --> 00:25:36,160  
最好的方式。  
to enjoy the Firth of Clyde.  

461  
00:25:36,160 --> 00:25:37,320  
我必须说  
And I have to say that  

462  
00:25:37,320 --> 00:25:39,000  
乘坐这艘小游艇航行  
sailing on this little yacht  

463  
00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:42,440  
让我回想起童年时跟随父亲  
takes me back to the many trips I had as a child  

464  
00:25:42,440 --> 00:25:44,520  
乘船出游的许多旅程。  
on board my father's boat.  

465  
00:25:48,680 --> 00:25:52,040  
航海有种特别的魅力，不是吗？  
There's something about sailing, is there not,  

466  
00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:54,520  
一个人只有在大海上  
that a person's not really at peace  

467  
00:25:54,520 --> 00:25:55,800  
才能真正平静？  
unless they're at sea?  

468  
00:25:55,800 --> 00:25:57,680  
- 你同意吗？  
- Do you agree with that?  
- 是的，我同意。  
- Yes, I do.  

469  
00:25:57,680 --> 00:26:01,800  
像今天这样的日子，阳光，蓝天  
A day like today, er, sunshine, blue skies  

470  
00:26:01,800 --> 00:26:04,280  
和微风。  
and a gentle breeze.  

471  
00:26:04,280 --> 00:26:06,800  
沉思自然与海洋。  
Contemplating nature and the sea.  

472  
00:26:06,800 --> 00:26:10,120  
这地方太棒了。这就是苏格兰，不是吗？  
It's a wonderful place. It's Scotland, isn't it?  

473  
00:26:14,040 --> 00:26:19,080  
我大环游的最后一站带我去一个多年来  
The last leg of my grand tour takes me to a place that's literally  

474  
00:26:19,080 --> 00:26:23,240  
一直在地平线上却从未踏足的地方。  
been on my horizon for years, but where I've never been before.  

475  
00:26:23,240 --> 00:26:26,920  
神秘的艾尔萨岩岛。  
The mysterious island rock of Ailsa Craig.  

476  
00:26:28,680 --> 00:26:31,560  
在达农上学时，我透过法语课教室的窗户  
As a schoolboy in Dunoon, I could see Ailsa Craig  

477  
00:26:31,560 --> 00:26:33,880  
就能看到艾尔萨岩。  
through the window of my French class.  

478  
00:26:33,880 --> 00:26:36,920  
这是我一直想探索的地方，  
It's a place I've always wanted to explore,  

479  
00:26:36,920 --> 00:26:40,120  
所以今天能登岛非常特别。  
so landing here today will be really special.  

480  
00:26:41,120 --> 00:26:43,360  
这里被称为"帕迪的里程碑"  
Known as Paddy's Milestone  

481  
00:26:43,360 --> 00:26:45,880  
因为它正好位于爱尔兰到苏格兰  
because it sits directly in the main sea route  

482  
00:26:45,880 --> 00:26:50,120  
的主要航线上，许多人经过却  
from Ireland to Scotland, it's a place that many have passed,  

483  
00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:51,680  
少有人造访。  
but few have visited.  

484  
00:26:53,120 --> 00:26:56,240  
但我必须承认，最意想不到的是看到  
But I must confess that the last thing I expected to find  

485  
00:26:56,240 --> 00:26:59,600  
这幅工业衰败的景象。  
was this scene of industrial decay.  

486  
00:26:59,600 --> 00:27:01,640  
这条铁路曾将花岗岩  
This railway line  

487  
00:27:01,640 --> 00:27:04,720  
从采石场运往港口。  
once carried granite from a quarry to the harbour.  

488  
00:27:04,720 --> 00:27:08,160  
岩石用于制作冰壶石。  
The rock was used to make curling stones.  

489  
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:10,120  
采石场早已关闭，  
The quarry closed long ago,  

490  
00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:14,760  
最后一批居民在1990年代灯塔自动化后  
and the last inhabitants left the island in the 1990s,  

491  
00:27:14,760 --> 00:27:17,760  
离开了岛屿。  
when the lighthouse became automated.  

492  
00:27:20,520 --> 00:27:23,520  
这座矗立在灯塔上方陡坡上  
This ruined castle, perched precariously  

493  
00:27:23,520 --> 00:27:26,600  
的城堡废墟，  
on the steep slopes above the lighthouse,  

494  
00:27:26,600 --> 00:27:29,360  
曾是肯尼迪家族的堡垒，  
was once a stronghold of the Kennedy Clan,  

495  
00:27:29,360 --> 00:27:32,440  
他们自16世纪就拥有该岛。  
who have owned the island since the 16th century.  

496  
00:27:33,960 --> 00:27:36,040  
当我攀登至克莱德湾上方  
As I climb more than a thousand feet  

497  
00:27:36,040 --> 00:27:37,960  
一千多英尺高处，  
above the Firth of Clyde,  

498  
00:27:37,960 --> 00:27:39,520  
旅程接近尾声时，  
and the end of my journey,  

499  
00:27:39,520 --> 00:27:41,840  
我突然意识到这里可能是  
it strikes me that here is perhaps  

500  
00:27:41,840 --> 00:27:45,040  
少数未被工业时代大众旅游  
one of the few places untouched by the mass tourism  

501  
00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:48,000  
触及的地方之一。  
of the industrial age.  

502  
00:27:48,000 --> 00:27:51,080  
多么壮观的景色啊。  
What an absolutely superb view.  

503  
00:27:51,080 --> 00:27:54,320  
从这里几乎可以看到我整个行程路线。  
From up here, you can almost see the entire course of my route.  

504  
00:27:54,320 --> 00:28:00,560  
正是这种让贫富都能逃离城市的机会  
It was the chance for rich and poor alike to escape the city  

505  
00:28:00,560 --> 00:28:05,560  
使沿岸的海滨度假地如此受欢迎。  
that made the seaside resorts along this coast so popular.  

506  
00:28:05,560 --> 00:28:08,600  
站在艾尔萨岩顶峰眺望，  
And looking out from the summit of Ailsa Craig,  

507  
00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:11,760  
我完全理解他们为何而来。  
I can understand just what it was they came for.  

508  
00:28:13,120 --> 00:28:16,400  
站在这就像站在苏格兰  
You know, standing here is like being on top of  

509  
00:28:16,400 --> 00:28:18,320  
最后的边防线上。  
the very last outpost of Scotland.  

510  
00:28:18,320 --> 00:28:21,240  
这是个恰当又发人深省的念头，  
Now, that's a fitting and somewhat sobering thought  

511  
00:28:21,240 --> 00:28:24,120  
为我这趟"水边大环游"画上句号。  
to end my Grand Tour doon the water.  

512  
00:28:24,120 --> 00:28:25,600  
现在，酒吧在哪？  
Now, where's the pub?  

513  
00:28:27,560 --> 00:28:30,080  
下期《大环游》中，  
Next on Grand Tours,  

514  
00:28:30,080 --> 00:28:32,120  
我将骑着复古自行车  
I'm exploring the Central Highlands  

515  
00:28:32,120 --> 00:28:34,240  
探索中部高地，  
on a vintage bike  

516  
00:28:34,240 --> 00:28:36,560  
体验自然魅力。  
to experience the charms of nature.  

517  
00:28:42,000 --> 00:28:45,240  
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518  
00:28:45,240 --> 00:28:48,680  
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