1 00:00:02,560 --> 00:00:07,160 苏格兰以其绝美的自然风光闻名于世。 Scotland is famed around the world for stunning scenery. 2 00:00:09,360 --> 00:00:13,280 同时也因其变幻莫测的天气声名远扬。 And notorious for its somewhat unpredictable weather. 3 00:00:14,600 --> 00:00:20,920 西部高地每年降雨天数高达265天——这实在算不上值得夸耀的事—— It's hardly a proud boast that it rains for 265 days a year in the Western Highlands 4 00:00:20,920 --> 00:00:25,480 夏季平均气温仅有16摄氏度。 or that the summer temperature only ever reaches an average of 16 degrees. 5 00:00:25,480 --> 00:00:28,160 但这片土地充满原始力量—— But this is an elemental country - 6 00:00:28,160 --> 00:00:30,480 在这里，狂风、骤雨、飞雪 a place where wind, rain, snow 7 00:00:30,480 --> 00:00:35,560 甚至偶尔乍现的阳光都可能让你猝不及防。 and sometimes even sunshine can take you by surprise. 8 00:00:38,840 --> 00:00:43,120 本系列中，我将无畏风雨重走当年 In this series I'm braving the weather and retracing the routes 9 00:00:43,120 --> 00:00:46,240 早期苏格兰游客的旅行路线。 taken by some of the early tourists to Scotland. 10 00:00:46,240 --> 00:00:51,160 早在1820年代，出版商就开始推出旅游指南， From as early as 1820 publishers began producing tourist guide books 11 00:00:51,160 --> 00:00:56,040 《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》便是首批作品之一。 and Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland was one of the first. 12 00:00:56,040 --> 00:01:00,400 这本珍贵的指南在我家族已传承数代。 A copy of this wonderful volume has been in my family for generations. 13 00:01:00,400 --> 00:01:05,840 当年我们全家出游时，父亲总将它放在车上。 It was always kept in my father's car when we went on holiday. 14 00:01:05,840 --> 00:01:09,960 如今我再次循着它的指引 Now I'm letting its pages guide me again 15 00:01:09,960 --> 00:01:12,440 开启六段苏格兰壮游之旅。 on my six Grand Tours of Scotland. 16 00:01:12,440 --> 00:01:16,160 途中我还将翻阅早期旅行者的笔记手稿 On the road, I'll also be dipping into the notes and jottings 17 00:01:16,160 --> 00:01:19,920 聆听他们的亲身见闻。 of some early travellers to hear about their experiences. 18 00:01:22,880 --> 00:01:26,880 这次我将前往苏格兰最荒蛮的地域之一 This time I'm on route to one of the wildest parts of Scotland 19 00:01:26,880 --> 00:01:31,760 这里能领略最原始的自然奇观， where you can find nature in all its elemental glory, 20 00:01:31,760 --> 00:01:35,360 有时一日之内便能历经四季更迭。 which sometimes means four seasons in one day. 21 00:01:46,760 --> 00:01:50,960 第二段壮游将带我穿越西北高地， The second of my grand tours takes me through the north-west Highlands 22 00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:54,040 抵达苏格兰大陆最北端。 and across very top of mainland Scotland. 23 00:01:55,720 --> 00:01:58,920 旅程始于托里登地区， My journey starts here in Torridon 24 00:01:58,920 --> 00:02:03,640 布莱克指南称此处以"狂野荒芜"著称。 which Black's guide book says is famed for its savage barrenness. 25 00:02:05,480 --> 00:02:07,720 这里不仅是苏格兰最原始 Not only is this one of the wildest 26 00:02:07,720 --> 00:02:10,280 最壮美的区域之一， and most beautiful parts of Scotland, 27 00:02:10,280 --> 00:02:13,160 也是最与世隔绝的所在。 it's also one of the most remote. 28 00:02:13,160 --> 00:02:15,040 即便在维多利亚时代 And even in Victorian times 29 00:02:15,040 --> 00:02:18,200 马车也只能带你走这么远。 a horse and carriage could only take you so far. 30 00:02:18,200 --> 00:02:22,040 余下的路程就得靠"香克斯小马"—— After that, it was a case of a ride on shanks' pony, 31 00:02:22,040 --> 00:02:23,920 也就是你的"肉盘子"。 on your plates of meat. 32 00:02:23,920 --> 00:02:26,680 换句话说：全靠两条腿。 In other words on yer ain two feet. 33 00:02:29,480 --> 00:02:31,640 维多利亚人热衷徒步， The Victorians were great walkers 34 00:02:31,640 --> 00:02:33,560 绅士们常以步行的距离 and gentlemen prided themselves 35 00:02:33,560 --> 00:02:35,640 来彰显自己的气概。 on how far they could travel of foot. 36 00:02:36,720 --> 00:02:39,840 这些被冠以"朝圣之旅"美名的徒步 These walks or peregrinations as they were grandly called 37 00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:44,600 将独具慧眼的旅行者引向鲜有人至的秘境。 took the discerning tourist right off the beaten track. 38 00:02:46,160 --> 00:02:50,840 有位维多利亚绅士曾为徒步壮举深感自豪—— One Victorian gent who was very proud of his pedestrian exertions 39 00:02:50,840 --> 00:02:54,840 柯克比恩教区的托马斯·格里尔森牧师。 was the Reverend Thomas Grierson, Minister of Kirkbean. 40 00:02:54,840 --> 00:02:56,840 格里尔森是位非凡人物， Now Grierson was a formidable man 41 00:02:56,840 --> 00:03:01,960 更是惊人的徒步者，能用双脚丈量辽阔大地。 and an even more formidable walker covering enormous distances on foot. 42 00:03:02,960 --> 00:03:08,640 1851年他撰写了《徒步旅行者指南》， In 1851 Grierson wrote a guide for the pedestrian tourist in which 43 00:03:08,640 --> 00:03:11,760 热情建议后人严格遵循他的足迹 he cheerfully recommends others to follow literally 44 00:03:11,760 --> 00:03:14,280 走遍苏格兰。 in his footsteps across Scotland. 45 00:03:15,360 --> 00:03:18,720 "游览高地的最佳坐骑莫过于双腿。 "The best of all steads for the Highlands are a man's own legs. 46 00:03:18,720 --> 00:03:22,040 "唯有徒步方能尽览 "In no direction can mountain scenery be viewed 47 00:03:22,040 --> 00:03:24,920 "山岳风光之壮美。" "so satisfactorily as on foot." 48 00:03:26,320 --> 00:03:29,200 谨记格里尔森牧师的箴言， So taking the Reverend Grierson's advice to heart, 49 00:03:29,200 --> 00:03:31,440 我来到这片偏远之地 I've come to this remote part of Scotland 50 00:03:31,440 --> 00:03:36,000 探寻心驰神往却未曾踏足的秘境。 in search of a place I've heard about but have never been to. 51 00:03:36,000 --> 00:03:38,200 那就是我的目的地—— Now this is where I want to get to. 52 00:03:38,200 --> 00:03:41,000 大湖套小岛，小岛含微湖， It's a tiny wee island in a loch 53 00:03:41,000 --> 00:03:45,280 湖中又嵌迷你岛的奇观。 on an island which is itself in a bigger loch. 54 00:03:45,280 --> 00:03:47,440 这就像俄罗斯套娃般的地理奇景 It's a kind of Chinese box of a location 55 00:03:47,440 --> 00:03:49,560 令我魂牵梦萦多年， and a place I've always wanted to visit, 56 00:03:49,560 --> 00:03:54,600 但抵达之前需暂别双腿，改乘小舟。 but to get there I'm going to have to rest my legs and take a boat. 57 00:04:01,080 --> 00:04:03,080 眼前是马雷湖， This is Loch Maree, 58 00:04:03,080 --> 00:04:07,520 素有"高地最美湖泊"之誉。 which is often referred to as the most beautiful in the Highlands. 59 00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:14,040 我正驶向湖心的艾琳苏文岛， I'm heading for an island in the middle of the loch 60 00:04:14,040 --> 00:04:15,680 但正如多数苏格兰游客所知， called Eilean Subhainn, 61 00:04:15,680 --> 00:04:18,200 必须时刻留意天气变化。 but as most visitors to Scotland have found, 62 00:04:18,200 --> 00:04:22,320 必须时刻留意天气变化。 you've always got to keep one eye on the weather. 63 00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:24,120 风势渐强， Well, the wind's picking up 64 00:04:24,120 --> 00:04:27,520 天际线已聚起乌云——老套路了—— and there's a black cloud on the horizon, as usual, 65 00:04:27,520 --> 00:04:30,760 得加快速度 so I'll need to put some speed on 66 00:04:30,760 --> 00:04:34,760 赶在天气恶化前登陆目标小岛。 and make a landing on my island before the weather gets any worse. 67 00:04:39,040 --> 00:04:41,160 正如《布莱克指南》所言... As my Black's Guide Book advises... 68 00:04:41,160 --> 00:04:45,280 "苏格兰气候极其多变。 "The climate of Scotland is extremely variable. 69 00:04:45,280 --> 00:04:47,720 "春夏时节东风与北风凛冽刺骨， "East and North Eat winds are felt severely 70 00:04:47,720 --> 00:04:49,560 "尤以西部为甚。" "during spring and early summer." 71 00:04:50,880 --> 00:04:53,280 书中还提醒旅行者提防... And it goes on to warn the traveller of... 72 00:04:53,280 --> 00:04:56,560 "强降雨天气，西部尤甚。" "Heavy rainfall, especially in the west." 73 00:05:03,680 --> 00:05:08,040 这些岛屿堪称奇迹，这里保存着 Now, these islands are truly amazing because here you'll find 74 00:05:08,040 --> 00:05:11,920 全英最完好的原始生态环境， some of the least disturbed natural environments anywhere in Britain, 75 00:05:11,920 --> 00:05:15,560 其重要性不言而喻——且听。 which is what makes them so important and just listen. 76 00:05:15,560 --> 00:05:17,120 [鸟鸣声] BIRDSONG 77 00:05:17,120 --> 00:05:21,160 自然的絮语。元素的交响。 The sound of nature. The sound of the elements. 78 00:05:22,160 --> 00:05:25,280 这是野生动物的纯净庇护所， This is an undisturbed haven for wildlife 79 00:05:25,280 --> 00:05:29,000 马雷湖群岛受到 and the Loch Maree islands are protected 80 00:05:29,000 --> 00:05:31,920 苏格兰自然遗产署保护，被列为 by Scottish Natural Heritage, who have designated it 81 00:05:31,920 --> 00:05:34,480 国家级自然保护区。 a national nature reserve. 82 00:05:37,040 --> 00:05:42,840 此处松林是古老喀里多尼亚森林的珍贵遗存， The trees here are precious remnants of the once extensive Caledonian pine forest 83 00:05:42,840 --> 00:05:46,400 曾覆盖高地大部分区域。 that covered much of the Highlands in ancient times. 84 00:05:47,400 --> 00:05:51,560 果然，下雨了。 Inevitably, of course, that's the rain on. 85 00:05:51,560 --> 00:05:56,000 看样子今天要阴晴不定一整天。 In fact it looks like it's going to be on and off all day. 86 00:05:56,000 --> 00:05:57,680 但这又何妨？ But what do you expect? 87 00:05:57,680 --> 00:06:00,480 毕竟这里是西部高地。 This is the West Highlands after all. 88 00:06:00,480 --> 00:06:02,160 依然美不胜收。 But beautiful nonetheless. 89 00:06:08,640 --> 00:06:11,320 沿着林间鹿径前行， Following the deer track beneath the trees, 90 00:06:11,320 --> 00:06:16,160 穿越这片亘古未变、 I make my way through a landscape that feels ancient and unchanged, 91 00:06:16,160 --> 00:06:19,560 近乎未经人工雕琢的原始地貌。 almost untouched by human hand. 92 00:06:22,880 --> 00:06:26,520 此刻已抵达湖畔，艾琳苏文岛 Now I've reached the loch and on Eilean Subhainn 93 00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:30,040 近在眼前。 and that is my island destination. 94 00:06:30,040 --> 00:06:34,280 但要登岛难免要冒淋湿——或更湿的风险。 But obviously to get there I'm going to risk getting wet or even wetter. 95 00:06:34,280 --> 00:06:35,760 现在问题是... Now the question is... 96 00:06:37,640 --> 00:06:41,960 该脱靴涉水还是速战速决？ ..whether I take my boots off or just use speed as a defence? 97 00:06:41,960 --> 00:06:44,600 决定冲刺过去。出发！ I think I'll use speed. Here we go. 98 00:06:46,040 --> 00:06:49,520 啊呀！嗷！ Arhhh! Ooh! 99 00:06:51,840 --> 00:06:53,240 还不算糟。 That wasn't so bad. 100 00:06:53,240 --> 00:06:55,880 太神奇的地方。 What an amazing place. 101 00:06:55,880 --> 00:06:59,720 全英国找不出第二处这样的奇景。 There's absolutely nowhere like this in the whole of the UK. 102 00:06:59,720 --> 00:07:03,480 弹丸小岛，方寸之地， It's only a wee scrap of island, a wee scrap of land, 103 00:07:03,480 --> 00:07:05,400 却是湖中有岛， but it's an island in a loch, 104 00:07:05,400 --> 00:07:07,720 岛中有湖， on an island 105 00:07:07,720 --> 00:07:11,080 大湖之外更有不列颠大岛环抱。 on a bigger loch on a bigger island of Britain. 106 00:07:11,080 --> 00:07:12,480 妙不可言！ It's amazing! 107 00:07:12,480 --> 00:07:16,840 要是有面小旗，我定要插在此处宣布主权。 If I had a wee flag I'd plant it right there and claim it for myself. 108 00:07:18,880 --> 00:07:22,280 维多利亚时代至今， In Victorian times, just as today, 109 00:07:22,280 --> 00:07:25,920 这般景致始终吸引着八方游客。 it was scenery like this that attracted the tourists. 110 00:07:30,000 --> 00:07:32,840 他们为原始的山峦、飞瀑、 They came to see the untouched mountains, waterfalls, 111 00:07:32,840 --> 00:07:34,440 湖泊与峡谷而来。 lochs and glens. 112 00:07:34,440 --> 00:07:38,480 为凝视壮景，为汲取灵感。 They came to gaze and to be inspired. 113 00:07:38,480 --> 00:07:41,240 随游客接踵而至的还有艺术家， And with the tourists came the artists, 114 00:07:41,240 --> 00:07:43,040 米莱斯、透纳、兰西尔， Millais, Turner, Landseer, 115 00:07:43,040 --> 00:07:46,760 艺术巨匠们纷至沓来， a litany of the greats beating path to the Highlands 116 00:07:46,760 --> 00:07:50,800 感受自然的原始之美。 to experience the elemental beauty of nature. 117 00:07:50,800 --> 00:07:52,400 至今未衰。 And they still come. 118 00:07:52,400 --> 00:07:54,160 就是这里了。 Yeah, this is it. 119 00:07:54,160 --> 00:07:56,480 为深入探索艺术与自然的关系， To find out more about art and the elements, 120 00:07:56,480 --> 00:08:00,800 我将与艺术家麦莉·赫德威克共同写生 I'm going to be sketching this spectacular mountain, Slioch, 121 00:08:00,800 --> 00:08:02,720 这座名为斯利欧山的奇峰。 with artist Mairi Hedderwick. 122 00:08:03,800 --> 00:08:06,840 2001年麦莉发现珍本 In 2001 Mairi discovered a rare copy 123 00:08:06,840 --> 00:08:11,240 维多利亚艺术家JT·里德的著作 of a book by Victorian artist JT Reid 124 00:08:11,240 --> 00:08:14,000 他当年手执素描本徒步走遍高地。 who toured the Highlands on foot, sketch book in hand. 125 00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:17,440 《苏格兰高地与岛屿艺术漫游》。 Art Rambles in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. 126 00:08:17,440 --> 00:08:18,640 精装珍本。 It's a beautiful book. 127 00:08:18,640 --> 00:08:20,000 -看这幅 -真美 - Look at that. - It's lovely. 128 00:08:20,000 --> 00:08:22,240 都是他的写生作品？ And these are his views? 129 00:08:22,240 --> 00:08:24,720 我翻阅时看到那些版画， I was thumbing through it. Saw the engravings 130 00:08:24,720 --> 00:08:28,400 西部高地与外岛的风景，不禁思索 of the West Highlands and the outer islands and thought 131 00:08:28,400 --> 00:08:31,960 若114年后站在同一位置， if I stand on the exact same place 114 years later, 132 00:08:31,960 --> 00:08:34,280 景致是否依旧？ will the view be the same? 133 00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:36,680 受JT·里德壮游的启发， Inspired by JT Reid's odyssey, 134 00:08:36,680 --> 00:08:39,040 麦莉决定重走他的路线， Mairi undertook to follow in his footsteps 135 00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:43,480 描绘当年里德画过的相同风景。 sketching the very same views that Reid had painted. 136 00:08:43,480 --> 00:08:46,720 此刻我们所坐的位置，应该就是 Now we are sitting in what we think is the exact spot 137 00:08:46,720 --> 00:08:50,000 约翰·T·里德当年写生的地方。 where John T Reid drew this picture. 138 00:08:50,000 --> 00:08:54,760 -他这幅作品气势恢宏 -确实震撼 - That's a fantastic image that he's created here. - Yeah, very dramatic. 139 00:08:54,760 --> 00:08:57,120 阴云笼罩下的斯利欧山。 We've got Slioch on a rather gloomy day. 140 00:08:57,120 --> 00:09:00,520 他当年十月来此写生， Yes, well it was October when he was doing that 141 00:09:00,520 --> 00:09:03,960 日记记载了具体日期和地点。 cos he kept a diary so I knew the dates he was in certain places. 142 00:09:03,960 --> 00:09:06,840 -所以你同期到访 -正是同期 - So you came here at the same time. - At the same time, yeah. 143 00:09:06,840 --> 00:09:09,320 是否与恶劣天气搏斗过？ Did you have to struggle against the elements? 144 00:09:09,320 --> 00:09:10,960 十月寒风刺骨， It was cold. It was October. 145 00:09:10,960 --> 00:09:12,760 山顶积雪皑皑，次日 It was freezing and there was snow 146 00:09:12,760 --> 00:09:15,560 更是暴雨如注。 on the top of that blooming mountain and the next day 147 00:09:15,560 --> 00:09:17,960 更是暴雨如注。 it was just stair rods coming down. 148 00:09:17,960 --> 00:09:20,280 -值得吗？ -当然 - Was it worth it? - Yes. 149 00:09:21,920 --> 00:09:24,440 麦莉，维多利亚时代有种观点认为 Now Mairi, I believe in Victorian times 150 00:09:24,440 --> 00:09:27,680 若对自然写生， there was a school of thought that said that 151 00:09:27,680 --> 00:09:30,240 便能发现某种 if you drew from nature 152 00:09:30,240 --> 00:09:33,120 本质真理。 you'd somehow discover some fundamental truth. 153 00:09:33,120 --> 00:09:36,520 你会开始真正观察与感知。 You begin to really look and really see. 154 00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:39,160 还会产生诸多疑问，比如 Yeah and question, I mean why, 155 00:09:39,160 --> 00:09:42,800 -地貌为何如此形成 -嗯 - you know, the land is formed the way it is. - Uh huh. 156 00:09:42,800 --> 00:09:47,680 人们渴望荒野的光影与壮美， People wanted the light and the beauty of the wild spaces 157 00:09:47,680 --> 00:09:51,320 唤醒生命中另一重维度—— to remind them of this other part of their life 158 00:09:51,320 --> 00:09:56,920 对艺术、自然与原始之美的领悟， which was the appreciation of art and nature and elemental beauty, 159 00:09:56,920 --> 00:09:59,440 这亦是精神洗礼。 and it was a spiritual experience as well. 160 00:09:59,440 --> 00:10:01,000 -难怪至今人们仍需要... -确实 - Uh huh. I can see why... - Yep. 161 00:10:01,000 --> 00:10:05,200 ..重返自然元素的怀抱。 ..getting back into the elements is important for people even today. 162 00:10:05,200 --> 00:10:08,760 我深爱着苏格兰， I just love, I love Scotland. I love it. 163 00:10:08,760 --> 00:10:12,080 -如魔法秘境 -非凡绝伦 - It's magical. - It's extraordinary. 164 00:10:12,080 --> 00:10:14,600 虽然我的写生未能尽显其妙。 Although I don't think I've quite captured it. 165 00:10:14,600 --> 00:10:15,920 噢，画得很好。 Och, you're doing fine. 166 00:10:15,920 --> 00:10:17,920 比例精准， Yes, you've got the proportions right. 167 00:10:17,920 --> 00:10:19,000 相当不错。 Yeah, it's not bad. 168 00:10:19,000 --> 00:10:22,000 手眼协调很棒。我的更夸张些。 Pretty good, hand and eye. Mine's a bit more exaggerated. 169 00:10:22,000 --> 00:10:24,440 -你看这里 -艺术处理 - Look, look. See. - Oh, artistic, yeah. 170 00:10:24,440 --> 00:10:25,920 你用了圆弧线。 You've got a round, yeah. 171 00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:33,400 为寻求更多灵感，我再度启程， Seeking further inspiration, I set off again 172 00:10:33,400 --> 00:10:37,200 向北行进——当然要看天气脸色。 heading north, weather permitting of course. 173 00:10:38,920 --> 00:10:43,840 徒步或许是领略苏格兰的最佳方式， Seeing Scotland at walking pace is perhaps the best way to appreciate 174 00:10:43,840 --> 00:10:46,880 看天气如何为地貌增添戏剧性， how the weather adds to the drama of the landscape, 175 00:10:46,880 --> 00:10:49,800 看变幻天光如何 and how the constantly changing light 176 00:10:49,800 --> 00:10:53,880 重塑眼前风景。 can transform the view in front of your eyes. 177 00:11:03,400 --> 00:11:06,480 但苏格兰善变的天气 But the unpredictable nature of Scotland's climate 178 00:11:06,480 --> 00:11:08,160 并非人人欣赏。 didn't charm everyone. 179 00:11:08,160 --> 00:11:11,080 美国艺术家伊丽莎白与约瑟夫·彭内尔 American artists Elizabeth and Joseph Pennell, 180 00:11:11,080 --> 00:11:14,920 1889年到访时直言不讳。 visiting in 1889 made their feelings clear. 181 00:11:16,920 --> 00:11:20,920 "我们毫不讳言，苏格兰之旅 "We have no hesitation in saying that our trip to Scotland 182 00:11:20,920 --> 00:11:22,400 "堪称最糟体验。 "was the most miserable. 183 00:11:22,400 --> 00:11:26,160 "天气恶劣是不争事实。" "That the weather is vile is a fact that cannot be denied." 184 00:11:26,160 --> 00:11:28,400 高地人的标准回答是： To which all Highlanders know the reply. 185 00:11:28,400 --> 00:11:33,400 "哎呀，上周天气可好着呢。" "Och if you'd only been here just last week, it was beautiful." 186 00:11:37,280 --> 00:11:40,160 但像格里尔森牧师这样的维多利亚徒步者 But a Victorian pedestrian like the Reverend Grierson 187 00:11:40,160 --> 00:11:43,040 却会为挑战险峻地貌 would have rejoiced in the challenge 188 00:11:43,040 --> 00:11:46,840 在恶劣条件下穿越壮丽荒野 of walking through such a dramatic and rugged landscape, 189 00:11:46,840 --> 00:11:49,000 而倍感振奋。 in often difficult conditions. 190 00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:54,560 这位牧师在书中痛心疾首批评某些苏格兰人 In his book the good Reverend scolds unpatriotic Scots 191 00:11:54,560 --> 00:11:56,800 竟去国外度假。 for taking their holidays abroad. 192 00:11:56,800 --> 00:12:02,240 他质问：既有家门口的奇景，何必去瑞士？ Why go to Switzerland, he asks, when we have such splendours on our doorstep? 193 00:12:02,240 --> 00:12:06,080 随后又哀叹当代青年的娇气。 Before lamenting the quality of the youth of his day. 194 00:12:08,680 --> 00:12:12,600 "我不禁痛心于当今青年 "I cannot help deploring the habits of indolence and effeminacy 195 00:12:12,600 --> 00:12:16,600 "怠惰娇弱的习气。 "observable among young gentlemen in these modern times. 196 00:12:16,600 --> 00:12:20,440 "他们几乎不愿踏出 "They can scarcely be prevailed upon to extend their ramblings 197 00:12:20,440 --> 00:12:24,960 "丝袜羽枕的舒适圈。" "beyond the regions of silk stockings and feather beds." 198 00:12:27,880 --> 00:12:32,560 不知牧师所指"丝袜漫游"具体何意， I'm not sure what silk stocking ramblings the good Reverend had in mind, 199 00:12:32,560 --> 00:12:36,040 但核心观点显而易见： but I suspect his point was this. 200 00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:39,200 真汉子当直面自然洗礼， A real man should expose himself to the elements 201 00:12:39,200 --> 00:12:41,440 而非沉溺女性化奢靡。 and not to effeminate luxuries. 202 00:12:44,880 --> 00:12:49,560 虽恐被贴上"丝袜漫游者"标签， At the risk of being labelled a silk-stocking rambler myself, 203 00:12:49,560 --> 00:12:55,320 我仍决定放弃全程徒步北上的计划。 I'm afraid I'm about to wimp out of making the whole of my trip north on foot. 204 00:12:55,320 --> 00:12:58,640 旅程行至此处， Now I've reached that point in my journey 205 00:12:58,640 --> 00:13:02,120 我需暂别原始自然， where I feel the need to take a break from elemental nature, 206 00:13:02,120 --> 00:13:05,120 让双脚歇息，改乘巴士。 rest my feet and take a bus. 207 00:13:05,120 --> 00:13:09,440 瞧这美人！真正的复古经典。 And what a beauty she is. A real blast from the past. 208 00:13:13,880 --> 00:13:16,200 感谢停车，我的脚快废了。 I'm glad you stopped. My feet are killing me. 209 00:13:16,200 --> 00:13:17,680 不客气。 No problem. 210 00:13:21,840 --> 00:13:24,680 五十年前的高地公路上， Buses like these would have been a familiar sight 211 00:13:24,680 --> 00:13:27,320 这类巴士是常见风景。 on Highland roads 50 years ago. 212 00:13:27,320 --> 00:13:31,160 这辆由巴士爱好者默多克·麦克弗森驾驶。 This one is driven by enthusiast Murdoch MacPherson. 213 00:13:31,160 --> 00:13:34,480 默多克，这是什么型号？太棒了。 Now Murdoch what kind of bus is this? It's a wonderful machine. 214 00:13:34,480 --> 00:13:38,560 1957年款贝德福德，产至1962年。 This is a Bedford 1957, through to about 1962. 215 00:13:38,560 --> 00:13:42,920 -堪称古董级工作马 -绝对经典 - So this bus is really a work horse from the past. - Oh absolutely, yes. 216 00:13:42,920 --> 00:13:47,400 想必有人登上这样的巴士时， But I imagine that some people when they step aboard a bus like this 217 00:13:47,400 --> 00:13:49,600 会瞬间回到童年。 they're taken back to their own childhood. 218 00:13:49,600 --> 00:13:52,280 -唤醒记忆 -经常如此 - To their own memories. - It happens all the time, 219 00:13:52,280 --> 00:13:56,040 光是看到这些巴士就能勾起回忆。 even seeing the buses brings a lot of memories back to people. 220 00:13:56,040 --> 00:13:58,600 新的一天，我们穿过布雷莫森林， A new day finds us passing through the woods 221 00:13:58,600 --> 00:14:01,760 驶向阿勒浦。 of Braemore on our way to Ullapool. 222 00:14:03,560 --> 00:14:07,640 1930年代定期巴士服务开通后， When regular scheduled bus services began to operate in the 1930s, 223 00:14:07,640 --> 00:14:12,480 高地从此向大众揭开神秘面纱， they opened up the previously inaccessible Highlands to everyone 224 00:14:12,480 --> 00:14:15,360 让更多探险者得以 and made it possible for ever more adventurous visitors 225 00:14:15,360 --> 00:14:17,480 深入荒野徒步—— to enjoy a good hike in the wilderness - 226 00:14:17,480 --> 00:14:20,120 而这里从不缺荒野可探。 and there was plenty of wilderness to explore. 227 00:14:21,160 --> 00:14:23,560 记得离开阿勒浦那日清晨， I remember the morning we left Ullapool, 228 00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:26,080 我们瞪圆了双眼。 our eyes mounted on stalks. 229 00:14:26,080 --> 00:14:29,920 几乎每走几步就有新奇发现。 There was something to see every few yards. 230 00:14:29,920 --> 00:14:32,160 忽见牛群漫步， Cattle one minute, 231 00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:36,920 又遇羊群顾盼， then sheep the next, peering first this way and then that, 232 00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:40,040 司机得练就眼观六路的本事。 so as a driver you get used to looking both ways at once. 233 00:14:44,640 --> 00:14:46,440 可曾有人... Do you ever get people... 234 00:14:46,440 --> 00:14:47,760 [笑声] HE LAUGHS 235 00:14:47,760 --> 00:14:49,960 可曾像那位女士一样 Do you ever get people like that lady there 236 00:14:49,960 --> 00:14:51,840 误以为这是班车？ who think that you are a service bus? 237 00:14:51,840 --> 00:14:53,360 偶尔会有。 It has happened once or twice. 238 00:14:53,360 --> 00:14:56,240 若方向一致， If we're going in the direction that they're going in, 239 00:14:56,240 --> 00:14:58,600 捎上一程也无妨。 there's nothing wrong with giving them a lift. 240 00:14:58,600 --> 00:15:00,520 -可以搭便车？ -当然 - You can give them a lift? - Oh, yes. Yes. 241 00:15:00,520 --> 00:15:03,760 人们见我们停车载客通常很惊喜， People are quite surprised when we actually stop and offer them 242 00:15:03,760 --> 00:15:06,840 也都满怀感激。 a lift and they're usually very grateful to us for, for that. 243 00:15:13,040 --> 00:15:16,920 '苏格兰此域不通铁路，至今仍可能遇见 'There's no railway at this side of Scotland at all and it's still 244 00:15:16,920 --> 00:15:20,920 '从未见过火车的年轻佃农。 'possible to meet a young crofter who hasn't even seen a train. 245 00:15:23,080 --> 00:15:26,120 '我们集体陷入长久的静默。' 'We all fell silent for a long time.' 246 00:15:33,760 --> 00:15:37,800 此刻我正驶向阿森特的广袤天地， I'm heading north into the wide open spaces of Assynt 247 00:15:37,800 --> 00:15:41,240 那里有着举世罕见的绝景。 and some of the most breath-taking scenery to be found anywhere. 248 00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:50,680 布莱克写道："此路堪称无与伦比 Black says, "This may well be called a route of unsurpassable 249 00:15:50,680 --> 00:15:53,320 "却不见乔木的壮丽之境。" "but treeless grandeur." 250 00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:58,240 观察入微，布莱克先生。的确无树却壮美， Well observed, Mr Black. Treeless and grand it is, 251 00:15:58,240 --> 00:16:02,040 于我而言始终充满震撼力。 and for me I've always found it incredibly atmospheric. 252 00:16:09,400 --> 00:16:12,120 初次到访是随父亲同行， I came here for the first time with my father. 253 00:16:12,120 --> 00:16:15,840 那时我约五岁，暮色渐沉时 I was about five years old at the time, and it was late in the evening 254 00:16:15,840 --> 00:16:18,960 他将车停在那边路上， and he stopped his car on the road over there to take 255 00:16:18,960 --> 00:16:22,760 拍摄落日映衬群山的景象。 a photograph of the sun setting behind these magnificent mountains. 256 00:16:27,720 --> 00:16:30,280 这是片亘古的土地， Now this is a truly ancient landscape 257 00:16:30,280 --> 00:16:34,760 蕴藏着世界上最古老的岩层。 and some of the oldest rocks in the world are found here. 258 00:16:34,760 --> 00:16:38,880 仅是凝望便令我战栗不已。 And just looking at it sends a shiver down my spine. 259 00:16:42,240 --> 00:16:46,960 难怪作家们总从这般荒野徒步中 It's little wonder that writers sought inspiration from walking 260 00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:49,480 汲取创作灵感。 through wild places like this. 261 00:16:49,480 --> 00:16:53,040 彭斯、柯勒律治、华兹华斯都曾在此山野寻诗。 Burns, Coleridge, Wordsworth all took to the hills. 262 00:16:54,400 --> 00:16:57,200 乐队"野草莓地"主唱兼词曲作者罗迪·伍姆布尔 Joining me on this part of my trip is Roddy Woomble, 263 00:16:57,200 --> 00:17:01,200 加入我这段旅程。 songwriter and lead singer of the band Idlewild. 264 00:17:02,720 --> 00:17:05,960 罗迪常来此寻找灵感。 Roddy often comes here to find his muse. 265 00:17:05,960 --> 00:17:09,600 罗迪，阿森特对你意义非凡吧？ Roddy, Assynt is quite a significant place for you, is it not? 266 00:17:09,600 --> 00:17:13,160 十年前我带乐队来此创作了 Yeah. About 10 years ago I came here with band, Idlewild, and we wrote 267 00:17:13,160 --> 00:17:16,440 -系列歌曲... -为何选这里？ - a collection of songs and... - Why did you choose to come here? 268 00:17:16,440 --> 00:17:19,560 不像乐队常去的场所。 It's not exactly the place you imagine a band would come to. 269 00:17:19,560 --> 00:17:22,560 辽阔荒凉，远离尘嚣。 It's big, it's bleak, it's in the middle of nowhere really. 270 00:17:22,560 --> 00:17:24,160 正因如此。 That was kind of why really. 271 00:17:24,160 --> 00:17:27,640 这是我首次彻底远离 It was my first experience of separating myself, ourselves 272 00:17:27,640 --> 00:17:31,080 熟悉环境的干扰。 from all the distractions and somewhere that we knew, you know. 273 00:17:31,080 --> 00:17:34,680 在此地，广袤空间带来 And to go somewhere like this where it's just... the possibilities 274 00:17:34,680 --> 00:17:38,080 无限可能，后来这里便成为 are kind of endless because of the space and subsequently it became 275 00:17:38,080 --> 00:17:42,520 我最爱的回归之地。 a real favourite place for me to come back to, just for that reason really. 276 00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:45,960 这种荒凉是否某种程度触动你灵魂？ Does the bleakness, I don't know, speak to your soul in some way? 277 00:17:45,960 --> 00:17:48,400 这里既荒凉又崎岖得惊人。 Because it is fantastically bleak and rugged. 278 00:17:48,400 --> 00:17:51,920 景观中透着近乎超自然的气息。 There's something kind of almost supernatural about the way it looks. 279 00:17:51,920 --> 00:17:54,600 关乎思考的空间。 It's to do with the space, the space to think, I think. 280 00:17:54,600 --> 00:17:57,760 周身空间是重要因素。 That's an important aspect of it, the space around you. 281 00:17:57,760 --> 00:17:59,880 -这里空间浩瀚 -确实 - There's a huge space here. - Yeah, there is. 282 00:17:59,880 --> 00:18:03,240 足以让人消失无踪。 You could disappear into this space and never be found again. 283 00:18:06,120 --> 00:18:10,200 继续北行中，我逐渐理解 As I continue my journey north, I begin to understand how this 284 00:18:10,200 --> 00:18:13,920 这绝景何以启迪艺术家与作家， stunning landscape could inspire artists and writers, 285 00:18:13,920 --> 00:18:19,200 令众人思索人类存在的渺小。 and lead many to ponder the inconsequential nature of man's existence. 286 00:18:28,440 --> 00:18:32,640 暂别存在主义沉思，我必须继续前行。 But leaving behind these existential musings, I must press on. 287 00:18:33,960 --> 00:18:37,920 下一站将展现自然界 The next stop on my itinerary is a place where the elemental forces 288 00:18:37,920 --> 00:18:40,160 最原始的力量—— of nature are very much apparent, 289 00:18:40,160 --> 00:18:44,000 苏格兰最西北端的愤怒角。 the most North Westerly point of Scotland, Cape Wrath. 290 00:18:45,200 --> 00:18:48,120 为抵达目的地，我正横渡 To get to my destination, I'm making the short crossing 291 00:18:48,120 --> 00:18:52,840 短程的德内斯湾，前往苏格兰 over the Kyle of Durness to what is surely one of the wildest 292 00:18:52,840 --> 00:18:56,080 最原始偏远的所在。 and remotest places in Scotland. 293 00:19:00,560 --> 00:19:03,760 愤怒角之名并非源于 Perhaps surprisingly the name Cape Wrath doesn't come 294 00:19:03,760 --> 00:19:06,200 怒海狂涛，而是来自 from the anger of the seas or from the wind, 295 00:19:06,200 --> 00:19:09,720 古挪威语"转折点"之意。 but from an old Norse Viking word meaning turning point. 296 00:19:09,720 --> 00:19:13,080 维京人见此险岬便知该调转 When the Vikings saw this fearsome headland, they knew it was time 297 00:19:13,080 --> 00:19:17,360 船头向东北返航挪威。 to turn their long ships and set sail north east, home to Norway. 298 00:19:20,640 --> 00:19:23,440 几个世纪来，无数船只与航海者 Over the centuries, many ships and seafarers 299 00:19:23,440 --> 00:19:26,240 葬身于此险境。 have met their doom on this treacherous headland. 300 00:19:27,400 --> 00:19:32,600 过去120年间，愤怒角灯塔始终守望于此。 But for the past 120 years, the Cape Wrath lighthouse has stood guard. 301 00:19:33,640 --> 00:19:38,240 布莱克指南称其为"文明慰藉的灯塔"。 Black's guide describes it as a reassuring beacon of civilisation. 302 00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:44,040 "茫茫怒海中，两位守望者 "In this waste of waters two individuals of the human race 303 00:19:44,040 --> 00:19:49,120 "为过往船只指引这险恶海岸。" "hold watch and ward to signal vessels off the inhospitable coast." 304 00:19:54,400 --> 00:19:57,480 如今灯塔已无看守人， There are no longer lighthouse keepers at Cape Wrath 305 00:19:57,480 --> 00:20:01,360 但这荒野深处仍有慰藉—— but there is still another form of reassurance here 306 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,760 一家为疲惫徒步者提供 in the middle of nowhere, 307 00:20:03,760 --> 00:20:07,640 休憩的小咖啡馆。 a cafe where tired walkers can take a well-earned break. 308 00:20:07,640 --> 00:20:10,720 -请给我杯茶 -没问题 - Oh, hi. Could I have a cup of tea, please? - Yeah, no bother. 309 00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:12,640 "何等文明" 'How civilised.' 310 00:20:12,640 --> 00:20:15,000 多谢 Cheers. Thanks very much. 311 00:20:15,000 --> 00:20:16,920 西行至尽头后， Having gone as far west as I can, 312 00:20:16,920 --> 00:20:22,520 我折返沿苏格兰最北端前往以雷神索尔命名的 I'm doubling back along the very top of Scotland towards Thurso, 313 00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:25,760 瑟索镇。 named after the Norse god of thunder, Thor. 314 00:20:25,760 --> 00:20:29,160 吸引我的非是城镇，而是如布莱克时代般 But it's not the town that grabs my attention, it's the sea, 315 00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:33,280 令人神往的海域。 just as it did in Black's day. 316 00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:40,040 "瑟索湾壮丽非凡， "The bay of Thurso is a magnificent object 317 00:20:40,040 --> 00:20:44,120 "半月形沙滩上， "and consists of a semi-circular sweep of sandy beach 318 00:20:44,120 --> 00:20:48,960 "连绵浪涛带着空洞呜咽释放威力。" "on which the long line of breakers yield their power with hollow moan." 319 00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:57,360 布莱克精准预言了瑟索如今受欢迎的原因。 Black's picks up on exactly why Thurso is popular with tourists today. 320 00:20:57,360 --> 00:21:01,280 这里巨浪堪比夏威夷， The powerful waves here have been compared with those of Hawaii, 321 00:21:01,280 --> 00:21:05,120 使瑟索成为世界级冲浪胜地。 making Thurso into a world-renowned surfing destination. 322 00:21:17,360 --> 00:21:21,960 每年顶尖冲浪高手齐聚小镇， Every year the world's top surfers descend on this small town, 323 00:21:21,960 --> 00:21:24,600 参加"奥尼尔冷水经典赛"—— to take part in the O'Neill Cold Water Classic, 324 00:21:24,600 --> 00:21:28,200 顶级国际赛事之一。 one of the premier international competitions. 325 00:21:39,320 --> 00:21:41,280 难以置信的是， It may be hard to believe 326 00:21:41,280 --> 00:21:43,920 这片冲浪天堂 but this surfer's paradise 327 00:21:43,920 --> 00:21:47,800 由几位70年代爱好者偶然发现， was first discovered by a handful of enthusiasts in the 1970s, 328 00:21:47,800 --> 00:21:52,560 先驱者帕特·基尔南当年为追寻 and one of those early surfing pioneers is Pat Kiernan 329 00:21:52,560 --> 00:21:56,280 瑟索名浪而来。 who came here in search of Thurso's famous wave. 330 00:21:56,280 --> 00:21:59,920 帕特，说说这传说中的浪吧。 Pat, can you tell me about this wave that everyone talks about. 331 00:21:59,920 --> 00:22:02,400 这是世界级浪点， Right, well, it's a world class wave 332 00:22:02,400 --> 00:22:05,280 三十年前我们少数人来此冲浪， that was surfed by a handful of us 30 or so years ago 333 00:22:05,280 --> 00:22:07,320 随着赛事举办 and it's just gradually grown in fame 334 00:22:07,320 --> 00:22:10,920 声名渐起终成传奇。 through the different contests that we've had and it's now legendary. 335 00:22:10,920 --> 00:22:14,400 -浪高多少？ -见过20英尺 -惊人 - And how big does it get? - I've seen it 20 foot. - That is some wave. 336 00:22:14,400 --> 00:22:16,400 其实挺吓人的。 It's quite frightening actually. 337 00:22:16,400 --> 00:22:20,880 帕特，你堪称苏格兰冲浪先驱。 And you yourself, Pat, in many ways are a Scottish surfing pioneer. 338 00:22:20,880 --> 00:22:24,120 1976年我作为学生来此， Er, yeah. Well, I first came up here in 1976 as a student, 339 00:22:24,120 --> 00:22:25,600 只为挑战自我。 just for the challenge. 340 00:22:25,600 --> 00:22:27,720 是海洋还是冒险精神 Were you drawn by the sea, were you drawn by 341 00:22:27,720 --> 00:22:30,320 吸引你来此？ the surfing adventure in this part of the world? 342 00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:33,600 毫无疑问是为浪而来。 Yeah. It was the waves that brought me up here, without a doubt. 343 00:22:33,600 --> 00:22:36,800 当年冲浪者应该寥寥无几。 I can't imagine there would have been very many surfers up here. 344 00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:39,800 当地人肯定觉得你们疯了。 The locals must have thought you were completely insane. 345 00:22:39,800 --> 00:22:41,960 -确实 -天寒地冻为何冲浪？ - Yeah. - Why go surfing here? It's freezing. 346 00:22:41,960 --> 00:22:44,920 有次渔民看见冲浪者， That's right. I remember one day, there was a guy... 347 00:22:44,920 --> 00:22:47,720 站在码头尽头 a local fisherman was standing at the end of the pier 348 00:22:47,720 --> 00:22:51,480 竟呼叫海岸警卫队救援。 and he saw a guy out surfing and he called the Coast Guard. 349 00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:55,960 警卫队从20英里外的威克赶来， The Coast Guard came through from Wick, 20 miles through, 350 00:22:55,960 --> 00:22:59,560 结果发现只是个冲浪者。 to save this guy and he was just a surfer. He was fine. 351 00:23:00,720 --> 00:23:04,240 如今全球冲浪者来此挑战， People come here from all over the world to surf in these waters 352 00:23:04,240 --> 00:23:08,040 从澳大利亚、新西兰、夏威夷远道而来。 and they're coming from places like Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii. 353 00:23:08,040 --> 00:23:13,320 -夏威夷人 -他们如何看待冰海冲浪？ - Hawaii. - I mean what, what do they think of surfing in the icy north? 354 00:23:13,320 --> 00:23:16,680 他们为浪而来，只在乎浪本身。 Well, they love it because it's the wave they come for. 355 00:23:16,680 --> 00:23:18,960 只在乎浪本身。 It's the wave itself. 356 00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:23,120 对你而言，冲浪魅力何在？ Tell me, Pat, for you what is the attraction of catching a wave? 357 00:23:23,120 --> 00:23:26,840 自由感，以及每道浪都独一无二。 It's just the freedom and the fact that every wave's different. 358 00:23:26,840 --> 00:23:29,880 永远充满未知惊喜。 You just don't know quite what you're getting yourself into. 359 00:23:29,880 --> 00:23:31,360 妙不可言。 It's fantastic. 360 00:23:31,360 --> 00:23:34,160 看来我得亲自体验了。 I think I'm going to find out for myself fairly soon. 361 00:23:34,160 --> 00:23:38,520 -必须的！ -现在我想到的不是自由而是寒冷 - You are! - Freedom's not what I'm thinking of. It's more the cold. 362 00:23:44,920 --> 00:23:47,840 维多利亚时代鲜有冲浪者， There obviously weren't many surfers in Victorian times 363 00:23:47,840 --> 00:23:50,760 即便有，恐怕也难以理解 and I'm not entirely sure that they would have made 364 00:23:50,760 --> 00:23:53,720 这项奇特运动， of this rather peculiar pursuit, 365 00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:58,160 更别说全身橡胶装备的尴尬。 never mind the indignity of having to dress from head to toe in rubber. 366 00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:07,680 接下来我要尝试连格里尔森牧师 I'm now going to attempt something that even the Reverend Grierson 367 00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:10,560 都会却步的事——水上行走。 would have balked at. I'm going to walk on water. 368 00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:15,040 为理解人们为何挑战北海寒浪， To try to understand just what it is that compels people to brave 369 00:24:15,040 --> 00:24:19,480 我向冠军冲浪手希拉·芬利森 the icy North Sea, I'm taking a lesson from champion surfer 370 00:24:19,480 --> 00:24:23,440 求教后亲身体验。 Sheila Finlayson before taking the plunge. 371 00:24:23,440 --> 00:24:26,040 希拉，板已备好，现在该学什么？ Sheila, I've got my board. What do I need to know now? 372 00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:29,440 -趴板划水 -明白 - What you need to do is you need to lie on the board and paddle. - Right. 373 00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:30,480 像这样 Like that. 374 00:24:30,480 --> 00:24:32,680 感觉浪来时 When you feel a wave coming towards you 375 00:24:32,680 --> 00:24:35,400 -立即划水 -明白 - I expect you to paddle. - Right. 376 00:24:35,400 --> 00:24:36,440 双手扶板 Put your hands 377 00:24:36,440 --> 00:24:38,200 -两侧 -嗯 - to the side of the board. - Uh huh. 378 00:24:38,200 --> 00:24:43,400 -撑起身体 -嗯 -单脚前踏 -像这样 - Bring yourself up like that. Put one foot forward. - Uh huh. - Like so. 379 00:24:43,400 --> 00:24:46,240 -这步最难 -没错 - Oh, that's the tricky bit then. - Yeah. 380 00:24:48,200 --> 00:24:51,040 理论如此，看似简单。 So that's the theory. Seems pretty straight forward. 381 00:24:51,040 --> 00:24:52,880 我准备好了。 Well, I'm ready. 382 00:24:52,880 --> 00:24:55,800 -很棒，但得摘帽子 -明白 - Excellent but you'll need to lose the hat. - Right. 383 00:24:59,400 --> 00:25:03,160 是时候挑战自然元素了。 Time to pit myself against the elements. 384 00:25:03,160 --> 00:25:06,200 现在我要站上冲浪板。 Right, so I'm going to get up on the board. 385 00:25:08,440 --> 00:25:09,960 对，很好！ Yeah, yeah. Fantastic! 386 00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:11,360 保持住，保罗。 That's, that's good, Paul. 387 00:25:11,360 --> 00:25:14,560 初试受希拉鼓励后， Encouraged by my early attempts, and by Sheila's enthusiasm, 388 00:25:14,560 --> 00:25:16,880 我感觉已准备好迎接 I feel I'm ready for the tricky part, 389 00:25:16,880 --> 00:25:18,920 最难环节——站立。 actually standing up. 390 00:25:18,920 --> 00:25:21,840 糟糕透顶！完全不行！ Oh, that's rubbish. Absolute rubbish! 391 00:25:24,720 --> 00:25:27,840 本欲踏浪而行，却似陷暗流漩涡， I had hoped the walk on water but I just seem to have been 392 00:25:27,840 --> 00:25:29,600 难以自拔。 caught in the undertow. 393 00:25:29,600 --> 00:25:32,200 这番遭遇倒颇具警世意味。 I'm sure there's some kind of moral homily in that. 394 00:25:41,160 --> 00:25:44,520 忽然间如有神助， And then suddenly, as if by divine intervention, 395 00:25:44,520 --> 00:25:46,480 一切豁然开朗。 everything seems to click. 396 00:25:47,480 --> 00:25:49,880 一道完美浪涌将我托起， The perfect wave to picks me up 397 00:25:49,880 --> 00:25:54,560 几欲与海洋原力融为一体。 and I almost felt at one with the elemental force of the sea. 398 00:25:59,160 --> 00:26:00,720 好吧，或许并未成功。 Well, maybe not. 399 00:26:00,720 --> 00:26:05,280 -败给浪涛了 -不不 - I feel I'm defeated, defeated by the waves. - No, no. 400 00:26:05,280 --> 00:26:08,640 -表现很棒 -败给自然伟力了 - Not at all. You're doing grand. - Defeated by the elements. - Ah! 401 00:26:08,640 --> 00:26:11,520 -已很出色 -承蒙谬赞 - I think you did very well. - You're very kind, Sheila. 402 00:26:11,520 --> 00:26:15,040 -总有属于我的那道浪 -会的保罗 - There is a wave out there somewhere with my name on it. - There is, Paul. 403 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:18,680 -静候完美浪涌 -必会到来 - I'm sure. - Undoubtedly. - I'm waiting for the perfect wave. 404 00:26:18,680 --> 00:26:21,680 冲浪体验令我几近窒息， Half drowned by my surfing experience, 405 00:26:21,680 --> 00:26:25,760 仍强打精神踏上最终旅程。 I pull myself together to make the final leg of my journey. 406 00:26:26,880 --> 00:26:30,000 既已至此，若不去往 Having come this far it would be churlish not to go to 407 00:26:30,000 --> 00:26:35,000 苏格兰北部传统终点，未免失礼。 the traditional end point of all journeys to the north of Scotland. 408 00:26:37,040 --> 00:26:39,040 此地便是， Well, this is it, 409 00:26:39,040 --> 00:26:43,480 约翰奥格罗茨——不得不说略显平淡。 John O'Groats, which I have to say is just a wee bit underwhelming. 410 00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:46,000 始终不解为何 And I've never really understood why 411 00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:50,360 诸多长途旅程以此为始终点。 so many long-distance journeys either begin or end here. 412 00:26:50,360 --> 00:26:53,560 常见"从兰兹角徒步至约翰奥格罗茨"的壮举， You often hear of folk walking from Land's End to John O'Groats, 413 00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:55,200 意义何在？ but why? 414 00:26:55,200 --> 00:26:58,000 此处非苏格兰最北端， This is not the most northerly part of Scotland. 415 00:26:58,000 --> 00:27:00,640 甚至不算最东北隅。 It's not even the most north easterly. 416 00:27:04,160 --> 00:27:08,320 为消解失落感，我决定将徒步终点 So to overcome my sense of anti-climax I'm going to end my hike 417 00:27:08,320 --> 00:27:12,040 定在真正意义上的苏格兰边缘。 just along the road at the real edge of Scotland. 418 00:27:17,320 --> 00:27:20,480 若寻自然原始之美， If it's the elemental beauty of nature you're looking for, 419 00:27:20,480 --> 00:27:22,800 此间正得其宜。 then this is the place to be. 420 00:27:33,880 --> 00:27:36,320 此刻立于邓肯斯比角悬崖， I'm standing on the cliffs of Duncansby Head 421 00:27:36,320 --> 00:27:39,240 苏格兰版图右上顶端。 at the top right hand corner of Scotland. 422 00:27:39,240 --> 00:27:43,120 由此向西延展的海岸直抵愤怒角， From this point, the coast runs west all the way to Cape Wrath, 423 00:27:43,120 --> 00:27:45,880 身后是彭特兰海峡群岛， and behind me are the islands of the Pentland Firth 424 00:27:45,880 --> 00:27:48,080 更远处乃奥克尼群岛。 and behind them, Orkney. 425 00:27:48,080 --> 00:27:51,280 南望可见邓肯斯比海蚀柱， And to the south we've got the fantastic sea stacks 426 00:27:51,280 --> 00:27:56,320 状若鲨鳍又似巫帽，奇绝异常。 of Duncansby that look more like shark fins or witches' caps. 427 00:27:56,320 --> 00:28:00,720 这些嶙峋岩峰是海洋伟力 These pinnacles of jagged rock are monuments to the relentless power 428 00:28:00,720 --> 00:28:04,480 与自然蛮荒的永恒见证。 of the sea and the raw force of nature. 429 00:28:06,800 --> 00:28:09,520 追寻原始之美的壮游在此收官， What a fantastic place for me to end my Grand Tour 430 00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:14,280 可谓得偿所愿。 in search of elemental beauty. I think I may have found it. 431 00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:26,000 下期《苏格兰壮游》将探寻 Next week on Grand Tours of Scotland I'm on a voyage to discover 432 00:28:26,000 --> 00:28:31,720 克莱德湾如何赢得各界游客青睐。 how visitors from all walks of life enjoyed the mighty Firth of Clyde. 433 00:28:45,280 --> 00:28:47,520 字幕由红蜂传媒提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 434 00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:49,800 联系邮箱：subtitling@bbc.co.uk Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk