1  
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两百多年来，游客们总会被苏格兰  
For over two centuries, tourists have been  

2  
00:00:04,560 --> 00:00:07,800  
独特的风景、浪漫的废墟、神话与传说  
tempted across the Scottish border by the country's  

3  
00:00:07,800 --> 00:00:13,800  
所吸引，跨越边境而来。  
unique blend of stunning scenery, romantic ruins, myths and legends.  

4  
00:00:13,800 --> 00:00:17,680  
早在苏格兰旅游业兴起之初，精明的出版商  
From the earliest days of Scottish tourism, canny publishers  

5  
00:00:17,680 --> 00:00:20,760  
就开始为这些新游客制作旅游指南。  
began producing guide books for these new arrivals.  

6  
00:00:20,760 --> 00:00:25,040  
这就是其中一本——《布莱克苏格兰风景指南》。  
And this is one of them - Black's Picturesque Guide To Scotland.  

7  
00:00:27,560 --> 00:00:32,200  
在本系列中，我将按照《布莱克指南》  
In this series, I'm setting out to explore Scotland according to Black's -  

8  
00:00:32,200 --> 00:00:36,240  
——这本最具影响力的维多利亚时代指南——来探索苏格兰。  
the most influential Victorian guide book of all.  

9  
00:00:37,240 --> 00:00:40,680  
我必须承认，随身携带这本破旧的指南  
I have to confess a personal interest in taking this  

10  
00:00:40,680 --> 00:00:42,840  
对我而言有着特殊意义。  
battered old guide with me.  

11  
00:00:42,840 --> 00:00:46,280  
小时候，每当我们去度假时，  
When I was a boy, it was always kept in the glove compartment  

12  
00:00:46,280 --> 00:00:49,960  
父亲总会把它放在汽车的储物格里。  
of my father's car when we went on holiday.  

13  
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受书中路线的启发，父亲带着我们  
Inspired by the routes it suggested, by father took us  

14  
00:00:53,440 --> 00:00:57,200  
走遍全国，寻找苏格兰的独特之地。  
all over the country, searching for Scotland's special places.  

15  
00:00:59,240 --> 00:01:02,040  
如今，四十年过去了，我再次让《布莱克指南》引领我  
Now, four decades on, I'm letting Black's guide me again  

16  
00:01:02,040 --> 00:01:05,840  
追随第一批游客的足迹。  
as I follow in the footsteps of the first tourists.  

17  
00:01:07,600 --> 00:01:11,000  
旅途中，我还会发现一些早期旅行者的笔记  
On the road, I'll also discover some early travellers whose notes  

18  
00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:16,080  
和随笔，它们将为我六次苏格兰大环线之旅铺路。  
and jottings will help pave the way on my six grand tours of Scotland.  

19  
00:01:28,280 --> 00:01:32,680  
我的第一次大环线之旅从特威德河畔贝里克出发，穿越边境，  
My first grand tour crosses the border from Berwick-Upon-Tweed,  

20  
00:01:32,680 --> 00:01:35,040  
探访边境修道院的浪漫废墟，  
visits the romantic ruins of a Border abbey,  

21  
00:01:35,040 --> 00:01:40,440  
然后前往南拉纳克郡，最后抵达格拉斯哥。  
before heading to South Lanarkshire and finally on to Glasgow.  

22  
00:01:42,000 --> 00:01:47,680  
在《布莱克指南》提到的所有城镇中，特威德河畔贝里克是独一无二的。  
Of all the towns and cities mentioned by Black's, Berwick-Upon-Tweed is unique.  

23  
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它是唯一一个位于英格兰的城镇。  
It's the only one in England.  

24  
00:01:50,920 --> 00:01:55,640  
贝里克古老的城墙提醒着人们它动荡的过去。  
Berwick's ancient city walls are a reminder of its turbulent past.  

25  
00:01:55,640 --> 00:01:59,120  
它在英格兰和苏格兰之间易手13次，  
It changed hands 13 times between England and Scotland  

26  
00:01:59,120 --> 00:02:03,200  
据说被围困的次数比耶路撒冷还多。  
and was besieged more often, they say, than Jerusalem.  

27  
00:02:03,200 --> 00:02:06,240  
如果你想找另一个与古代世界的比较，  
If you're looking for another comparison with the ancient world,  

28  
00:02:06,240 --> 00:02:10,160  
贝里克曾被称为“北方亚历山大”——  
Berwick was once known as the Alexandria of the North -  

29  
00:02:10,160 --> 00:02:13,880  
不过，我得说，我觉得给它起这个名字的人  
though, I have to say, I think the people who gave it that name  

30  
00:02:13,880 --> 00:02:15,920  
可能没怎么出过远门。  
were not the best travelled.  

31  
00:02:18,440 --> 00:02:22,600  
历史上，贝里克的战略位置使其成为英格兰入侵军队  
Historically, Berwick's strategic position made it an important  

32  
00:02:22,600 --> 00:02:25,520  
的重要桥头堡。  
bridgehead for invading English armies.  

33  
00:02:25,520 --> 00:02:26,680  
到了维多利亚时代，  
By Victorian times,  

34  
00:02:26,680 --> 00:02:32,120  
游客取代了曾经涌过边境的士兵。  
tourists had replaced the soldiers who once poured across the border.  

35  
00:02:32,120 --> 00:02:36,320  
这些新的入侵者乘坐各种交通工具而来——火车、  
And these new invaders came in all manner of conveyance - train,  

36  
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马车、自行车、三轮车和房车，而我选择  
carriage, bicycle, tricycle and caravan, my preferred  

37  
00:02:40,680 --> 00:02:46,160  
房车作为我大环线第一段的交通工具。  
mode of transport for the first leg of my grand tour.  

38  
00:02:46,160 --> 00:02:50,520  
是一位苏格兰人推广了这种有些特别的  
It was a Scot who popularised the somewhat peculiar  

39  
00:02:50,520 --> 00:02:52,040  
房车旅行消遣。  
pastime of caravanning.  

40  
00:02:52,040 --> 00:02:58,120  
1886年，留着八字胡、身穿格子呢的威廉·戈登·斯特布尔斯医生  
In 1886, the moustachioed plaid-clad Doctor William Gordon Stables  

41  
00:02:58,120 --> 00:03:02,080  
离开英格兰流放地，乘坐一辆名为“漫游者”的马拉房车  
left his English exile to explore the land of his birth  

42  
00:03:02,080 --> 00:03:05,280  
探索他的出生地。  
in a horse-drawn caravan called the Wanderer.  

43  
00:03:05,280 --> 00:03:11,240  
这是一艘豪华定制陆地游艇，拥有各种便利设施。  
A luxury bespoke land yacht which boasted every convenience.  

44  
00:03:11,240 --> 00:03:17,280  
斯特布尔斯喜欢自称WG，他乘坐“漫游者”旅行了1400英里，  
WG, as Stables like to call himself, travelled 1,400 miles  

45  
00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:22,800  
由两匹马——他心爱的“豌豆花”和“矢车菊”——拉着前行。  
in the Wanderer, pulled by two horses - his beloved Pea Blossom and Cornflower.  

46  
00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:27,720  
现在，秉承WG这位真正勇于冒险的开路先锋精神，  
Now, in the spirit of WG, who was a truly adventurous pioneer  

47  
00:03:27,720 --> 00:03:31,760  
我也有了自己更简朴的房车，由  
of the open road, I've got my own rather more modest caravan pulled by  

48  
00:03:31,760 --> 00:03:37,040  
一匹名为“杰克”的单马力单位拉着，它的主人温迪负责牵引。  
a single horsepower unit, called Jack, who's being led by his owner, Wendy.  

49  
00:03:37,040 --> 00:03:42,440  
多么美妙的悠闲方式，可以欣赏乡村风光。  
What a wonderfully sedate way to appreciate the countryside.  

50  
00:03:45,320 --> 00:03:47,560  
这也是WG的坚定信念。  
This was WG's passionate belief, too.  

51  
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房车旅行让你与自然接触，  
Caravanning put you in touch with nature,  

52  
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对健康大有裨益。  
and was a positive boon to health.  

53  
00:03:53,160 --> 00:03:57,960  
但他警告说，旅行生活需要一些时间来适应。  
But he warned that the travelling life took some getting used to.  

54  
00:03:57,960 --> 00:04:03,880  
“车轮的持续嗡嗡声和颠簸会震动全身，就像一座活磨坊，  
"The constant hum of the wagon wheels and the jolting shakes the system and it's like a living mill,  

55  
00:04:03,880 --> 00:04:07,480  
但两周后，你就会适应了。”  
"but after a fortnight, you harden up to it".  

56  
00:04:12,720 --> 00:04:15,040  
沿着特威德河的路线  
Following the course of the River Tweed  

57  
00:04:15,040 --> 00:04:19,680  
从贝里克向西，我一直在英格兰境内，直到到达联合桥，  
west from Berwick, I stay in England until I get to the Union Bridge,  

58  
00:04:19,680 --> 00:04:24,640  
《布莱克指南》将其描述为“一座美丽的建筑，我们相信，  
which Black's describes as, "A beautiful structure and, we believe,  

59  
00:04:24,640 --> 00:04:29,920  
这是英国建造的第一座悬索桥”。  
"the first suspension bridge ever constructed in the United Kingdom".  

60  
00:04:32,800 --> 00:04:36,280  
1820年开通时，它是世界上最长的锻铁  
When it opened in 1820, it was the longest wrought-iron  

61  
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悬索桥，跨度达137米。  
suspension bridge in the world - with a span of a 137 metres.  

62  
00:04:41,320 --> 00:04:43,760  
但这座桥吸引我的并非任何破纪录的新奇之处，  
But it's not for any record-breaking novelty  

63  
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而是其背后的意义。  
that I find this bridge fascinating.  

64  
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几个世纪以来，英格兰和苏格兰彼此敌对，  
For centuries, England and Scotland were at one another's throats,  

65  
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而我们脚下的特威德河  
and the River Tweed flowing beneath us  

66  
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曾是两国激烈争夺的国际边界。  
was an international frontier that was much fought over.  

67  
00:04:57,760 --> 00:05:00,200  
但这一切在1707年  
But, of course, all that changed in 1707  

68  
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随着议会联合而改变，这座桥是新成立的国家  
with the Union of Parliaments, and this bridge is the physical embodiment  

69  
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希望与抱负的具体体现。  
of the hopes and aspirations of the newly-formed state.  

70  
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塔楼上刻着英格兰和苏格兰的联合标志——  
On the tower are the united emblems of England and Scotland -  

71  
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蓟花与玫瑰——以及一句拉丁文铭文。  
the thistle and the rose - along with a Latin inscription.  

72  
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“Vis Unita Fortior”，意为“团结就是力量”。  
Vis Unita Fortior. Unity and strength.  

73  
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尽管两国联姻，  
But despite this marriage of nations,  

74  
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跨越边境对英格兰游客来说仍是一场冒险。  
crossing the border remained an adventure for English tourists.  

75  
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跨过这座桥进入苏格兰  
To cross the bridge into Scotland  

76  
00:05:33,080 --> 00:05:35,760  
就是进入一个充满新奇与冒险的世界。  
was to pass into a world of novelty and adventure.  

77  
00:05:38,080 --> 00:05:41,880  
为了了解苏格兰作为早期游客眼中异域风情的魅力，  
To find out about the allure of Scotland as an exotic  

78  
00:05:41,880 --> 00:05:44,520  
我约见了见多识广的作家珍妮弗·考克斯。  
destination for early tourists,  

79  
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你觉得维多利亚时代的英格兰游客  
I'm meeting up with the very well-travelled writer, Jennifer Cox.  

80  
00:05:48,880 --> 00:05:51,360  
会觉得苏格兰的生活有多异域风情？  
So exactly how exotic do you think the Victorian  

81  
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tourists from England found life here in Scotland?  

82  
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我认为每个到访的人都感到惊讶。  
I think that everybody coming was amazed.  

83  
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当你回溯  
When you go back  

84  
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维多利亚时代游客对苏格兰的记述，  
and look at Victorian accounts  

85  
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比如维多利亚女王本人  
of visitors to Scotland, I mean, Queen Victoria herself,  

86  
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1842年首次访问爱丁堡时，  
when she visited Edinburgh for the first time in 1842,  

87  
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她惊讶地写道这座城市是用石头而非砖块建造的。  
she writes with astonishment about how the city is built of stones, not bricks.  

88  
00:06:16,720 --> 00:06:21,600  
阿尔伯特亲王说它像是……我想他描述为“现代雅典”。  
And Prince Albert says that it's like... I think he describes a modern Athens.  

89  
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一座现代卫城。  
A modern Acropolis.  

90  
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我觉得有趣的是，阿尔伯特亲王将爱丁堡  
I think it's interesting that Prince Albert made the comparison between  

91  
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与雅典相提并论。我注意到很多  
Edinburgh and Athens. That's something I've noticed  

92  
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维多利亚时代的作家和旅行作家来苏格兰时都会这么做。  
a lot about Victorian writers and travel writers coming to Scotland.  

93  
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他们倾向于将苏格兰城镇  
They have this tendency to compare Scottish towns  

94  
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与法国、德国和意大利的地方比较。  
with places in France, Germany and Italy.  

95  
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他们为什么这么做？  
Why would they do that?  

96  
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我想是因为如果你参加过这些大旅行，  
Well, I think it's because if you had been on these grand tours  

97  
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然后去苏格兰，你会想要一个参照点。  
and you were then going to Scotland, you wanted a point of comparison.  

98  
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它很不同——但究竟怎么不同？  
It was different - but how was it different?  

99  
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所以你想告诉人们：  
So you wanted to be able to say to people,  

100  
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“哦，就像法国那个很受欢迎的地方。”  
"Oh, it was like that place that's really popular in France."  

101  
00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:01,360  
“哦，就像我们去过的意大利那个地方。”  
"Oh, it was like that place we went to in Italy."  

102  
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这样就能在它们之间建立共同点。  
And so it was drawing a common point between it all.  

103  
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但最重要的是，  
But I think, most importantly,  

104  
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旅行是特权阶级的活动。  
to travel was for the privileged classes.  

105  
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所以能够用语言描述一个地方，  
And so to be able to describe somewhere in words,  

106  
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能够说“这是一个经典景点，一个令人兴奋的目的地”，  
to be able to say, "This is a classic site, an exciting destination,"  

107  
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人们会为之着迷。  
People were just agog.  

108  
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这简直让苏格兰听起来像某种浪漫的田园诗。  
I mean, it literally made Scotland sound like some kind of romantic idyll.  

109  
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我的异域苏格兰之旅继续前往凯尔索古镇，  
My journey into exotic Scotland continues  

110  
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《布莱克指南》称其  
to the old town of Kelso, which, Black's says,  

111  
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“坐落在特威德河畔，风景优美”。  
"Occupies a beautiful situation on the margin of the River Tweed".  

112  
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其他指南书对宽敞的广场或集市赞不绝口，  
Other guide books effuse over the spacious square or market place,  

113  
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但它们无法达成一致：  
but they can't agree  

114  
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它看起来更像意大利、法国还是德国风格。  
if it looks more Italian than French, more French than German.  

115  
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对我来说都一样陌生。  
It's all Dutch to me.  

116  
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镇外不远处是罗克斯堡公爵家族的祖宅，  
Just outside the town is the ancestral home  

117  
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of the Dukes of Roxburghe,  

118  
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宏伟的弗洛尔斯城堡。  
the enormous stately pile of Floors Castle.  

119  
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《布莱克指南》提到，周三进入弗洛尔斯  
Now, Black's says that admission to the grounds  

120  
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城堡的场地和花园  
and gardens of Floors on Wednesdays  

121  
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需向凯尔索的苏格兰国家银行申请。  
can be made by application at the National Bank of Scotland in Kelso.  

122  
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幸运的是，如今你不再需要申请进入弗洛尔斯，  
Luckily you no longer have to apply for admission to Floors,  

123  
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在这里，我感受到了维多利亚时代与我们今天的延续性。  
where I'm struck by a continuity with Victorian times and our own.  

124  
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《布莱克指南》不断强调  
Black's constantly draws attention  

125  
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一个地区的宏伟乡间宅邸——当时被称为“绅士之座”，  
to the grand country houses of an area, the gentlemen's seats, as they were called,  

126  
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并以近乎惊叹的语气提及它们，  
and refers to them almost as breathlessly  

127  
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就像今天的《Grazia》或《Hello!》杂志谈论现代名人一样。  
as Grazia or Hello! magazine might do today when speaking about modern celebrities.  

128  
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事实上，在维多利亚时代，“贵族观察”——暂且这么称呼——  
Well, the fact is, that in Victorian times nob-watching, for want of a better term,  

129  
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是一种类似的消遣，但打着教育和开化的幌子进行。  
was an equivalent pastime but carried out under the guise of being educational and civilising.  

130  
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参观豪宅就是跨越阶级边界，进入另一个世界。  
To visit a stately home was to cross a class border into another world.

131  
00:09:13,400 --> 00:09:17,160  
光是来到弗洛尔斯城堡这样的豪宅，  
Just by going to a grand house like Floors Castle,  

132  
00:09:17,160 --> 00:09:21,520  
些许贵族气质就会像仙尘般沾染到你身上，  
some of the aristocratic refinement might rub off like fairy dust  

133  
00:09:21,520 --> 00:09:26,800  
让你变得比实际更高贵。  
and transform you into something grander than you really were.  

134  
00:09:26,800 --> 00:09:30,800  
"带我参观这些具有教育意义和文明内涵的内饰的  
'My guide to these educational and civilising interiors  

135  
00:09:30,800 --> 00:09:35,400  
是玛丽·坎贝尔，她在这座城堡工作了13年。"  
'is Marie Campbell, who's been working at the castle for 13 years.'  

136  
00:09:35,400 --> 00:09:37,680  
多美的房间啊。  
What a wonderful room.  

137  
00:09:37,680 --> 00:09:39,880  
哦，是的，这是客厅，  
Oh, yes, this is the drawing room,  

138  
00:09:39,880 --> 00:09:43,040  
家人们常在晚上使用这个房间，  
and the family often use this room in the evenings  

139  
00:09:43,040 --> 00:09:44,920  
当然是在我们离开之后。  
when we're all gone, of course.  

140  
00:09:44,920 --> 00:09:48,160  
绳子和木板撤走，管家会生起炉火。  
The ropes and boards go away and the butler lights the fire.  

141  
00:09:48,160 --> 00:09:50,680  
所以家人们真的会使用这个房间？  
Right, so the family use this room, then?  

142  
00:09:50,680 --> 00:09:51,840  
确实如此。  
They do indeed.  

143  
00:09:51,840 --> 00:09:53,360  
这是他们的家。  
This is their home.  

144  
00:09:53,360 --> 00:09:57,080  
"这里有各种用途  
'There are rooms here for every conceivable purpose  

145  
00:09:57,080 --> 00:09:59,480  
和场合的房间，当然，  
'and occasion, and of course,  

146  
00:09:59,480 --> 00:10:04,200  
任何有自尊的城堡都不会缺少自己的舞厅。"  
'no self-respecting castle would be without its very own ballroom.'  

147  
00:10:04,200 --> 00:10:08,760  
玛丽，告诉我，什么样的游客会被弗洛尔斯吸引？  
Now, tell me, Marie, what kind of tourists are attracted to Floors?  

148  
00:10:08,760 --> 00:10:11,640  
你觉得他们来这里寻找什么？  
What do you think they're looking for when they come here?  

149  
00:10:11,640 --> 00:10:15,080  
我想他们主要是被这里的氛围震撼。  
I think they're just mainly struck with the atmosphere.  

150  
00:10:15,080 --> 00:10:17,800  
他们带着一片空白而来，  
They come with quite a blank canvas  

151  
00:10:17,800 --> 00:10:21,520  
看过许多其他城堡后以为这里也会一样，  
and they come in and they've seen so many other castles  

152  
00:10:21,520 --> 00:10:23,640  
但当然并非如此，  
and they think it's all going to be the same,  

153  
00:10:23,640 --> 00:10:27,880  
因为这里全年都有人居住。  
but of course it isn't, because this one is lived in all the year round.  

154  
00:10:27,880 --> 00:10:30,840  
所以你觉得他们像是在窥见  
So do you think they feel as if they're getting a glimpse  

155  
00:10:30,840 --> 00:10:33,280  
特权阶层的生活方式，  
of what it is to live a privileged lifestyle,  

156  
00:10:33,280 --> 00:10:34,840  
跨入另一个世界？  
to cross into another world?  

157  
00:10:34,840 --> 00:10:37,960  
正是如此。他们确实这样觉得，并且乐在其中。  
That's exactly right. They do and they love it.  

158  
00:10:40,000 --> 00:10:44,760  
豪宅被视为艺术与文化的宝库，  
Grand houses were seen as repositories of art and culture,  

159  
00:10:44,760 --> 00:10:46,920  
文明的灯塔。  
beacons of civilisation.  

160  
00:10:46,920 --> 00:10:50,360  
宅邸主人认为允许值得的公众  
And their owners felt it was their civic duty to allow deserving  

161  
00:10:50,360 --> 00:10:55,960  
有限度地参观他们的珍宝是公民责任。  
members of the public limited access to see their treasures.  

162  
00:10:55,960 --> 00:11:00,000  
况且，如果不能炫耀，拥有珍宝又有什么意义？  
And anyway, why have treasures if you can't flaunt them?  

163  
00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:03,240  
宅内或庭园的短途旅行和导游服务，  
Excursions and guided tours, either inside the house  

164  
00:11:03,240 --> 00:11:08,040  
不仅是体面且具有教育意义的  
or around the grounds, were not only a respectable and educationally  

165  
00:11:08,040 --> 00:11:14,040  
消磨时间方式，对女士们也很安全。  
improving way of spending your time, they were also safe for the ladies.  

166  
00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:16,840  
不会有令人不快的意外。  
There were no nasty surprises.  

167  
00:11:16,840 --> 00:11:19,600  
不会弄脏衬裙。  
No dirt to stain the crinoline frocks.  

168  
00:11:19,600 --> 00:11:25,160  
没有不雅观或不够淑女的运动  
No undainty and unfeminine exercise to make a lady of refinement  

169  
00:11:25,160 --> 00:11:27,120  
让高贵的女士出汗。  
break out in a sweat.  

170  
00:11:28,520 --> 00:11:32,720  
必须说，绅士吉普赛人WG·斯特布尔斯  
I think it's only fair to say that the gentleman gypsy, WG Stables,  

171  
00:11:32,720 --> 00:11:37,080  
在弗洛尔斯找不到任何能打动他的东西。  
would have found nothing to impress him at Floors.  

172  
00:11:37,080 --> 00:11:39,040  
他对封闭空间毫无兴趣。  
He had little time for confinement.  

173  
00:11:39,040 --> 00:11:43,160  
他是个行动派，渴望开阔道路上的冒险。  
He was a man of action and longed for the adventure of the open road.  

174  
00:11:43,160 --> 00:11:47,320  
"为了更多了解这位古怪的  
'To discover more about the eccentric founder of  

175  
00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:51,240  
房车旅行艺术的创始人，我稍作停留，  
'the art of caravanning, I stop for a while and share a cup of tea  

176  
00:11:51,240 --> 00:11:55,000  
与他的曾孙艾伦·戈登·斯特布尔斯共饮一杯茶。"  
'with his great-grandson, Alan Gordon Stables.'  

177  
00:11:55,000 --> 00:11:59,000  
你的曾祖父WG自称绅士吉普赛人，  
Now, your great grandfather, WG, called himself a gentleman gypsy  

178  
00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:01,600  
这很能说明他如何看待自己。  
and that says a lot about the way he saw himself.  

179  
00:12:01,600 --> 00:12:03,320  
我想是的。  
I think that's correct, yes.  

180  
00:12:03,320 --> 00:12:05,840  
他自称绅士吉普赛人的原因，  
The reason he called himself the gentleman gypsy,  

181  
00:12:05,840 --> 00:12:08,720  
据我们推测，是因为他受邀  
as far as we can work out, is that he was inspired to have  

182  
00:12:08,720 --> 00:12:12,160  
参观一辆吉普赛大篷车后，  
the caravan built as a result of having been invited to look  

183  
00:12:12,160 --> 00:12:16,360  
才决定建造自己的房车。  
into a gypsy caravan when he was in Pangbourne in Berkshire.  

184  
00:12:16,360 --> 00:12:20,880  
当时他在修理马车，需要临时修补，  
He was having his trap repaired, a running repair was required,  

185  
00:12:20,880 --> 00:12:24,080  
一位吉普赛女士邀请他进入她的大篷车  
and a lady gypsy invited him into her caravan  

186  
00:12:24,080 --> 00:12:26,840  
看看内部。  
to have a look and see the inside of it.  

187  
00:12:26,840 --> 00:12:30,920  
他建造的那辆房车，你能描述一下吗？  
Now, the caravan that he had built, can you describe it for me?  

188  
00:12:30,920 --> 00:12:33,800  
那是辆大型桃花心木打造的车辆，做工精良，  
It was a large mahogany-built vehicle, coach-built,  

189  
00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:37,480  
内饰豪华，配有天鹅绒等材料，  
well fitted out with, sort of, plush velvet inside etc,  

190  
00:12:37,480 --> 00:12:40,720  
满足绅士路上的一切需求。  
and provided all that the gentleman could require on the road.  

191  
00:12:40,720 --> 00:12:42,840  
所以不只是个带轮子的床。  
So it wasn't just a bed on wheels, you know.  

192  
00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:45,360  
他有床，有写字台，  
He had his bed. He had his writing desk.  

193  
00:12:45,360 --> 00:12:49,000  
有油炉，甚至有自来水。  
He had an oil stove and he had running water, even.  

194  
00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:51,320  
还带着贴身男仆照顾他。  
And he took his valet with him to look after him.  

195  
00:12:51,320 --> 00:12:52,760  
贴身男仆？！好吧。  
His valet?! Right.  

196  
00:12:52,760 --> 00:12:56,400  
是的。男仆名叫福利，  
Yes, yes. Foley was the name of his valet  

197  
00:12:56,400 --> 00:12:59,000  
他的工作是骑着三轮车在前面探路，  
and his job was to ride a tricycle ahead  

198  
00:12:59,000 --> 00:13:01,080  
为马匹寻找马厩。  
to look for stabling for the horses.  

199  
00:13:01,080 --> 00:13:05,920  
他当然出版了这本精美的书，  
Now, he produced, of course, this beautiful book,  

200  
00:13:05,920 --> 00:13:08,840  
这是首版所以我得非常小心，  
and this is a first edition so I've got to be very careful,  

201  
00:13:08,840 --> 00:13:11,960  
《漫游者陆地游艇之旅》，  
of the Cruise Of The Land Yacht Wanderer,  

202  
00:13:11,960 --> 00:13:15,960  
我想这本精心制作的巨著  
and I suppose, in many ways, you know, this lovingly produced tome  

203  
00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:19,880  
充分表明这种生活方式对他多么珍贵。  
indicates just how precious this way of life was to him.  

204  
00:13:19,880 --> 00:13:21,000  
确实如此。  
Oh yes. Yes.  

205  
00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:27,000  
"WG的精彩故事详细描述了他与宠物鹦鹉波莉  
'WG's ripping yarn details his adventures with a pet cockatoo  

206  
00:13:27,000 --> 00:13:30,520  
和忠犬飓风鲍勃的冒险。"  
'called Polly, and his faithful hound, Hurricane Bob.'  

207  
00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:32,760  
他显然非常古怪。  
Oh, and he clearly was very eccentric.  

208  
00:13:32,760 --> 00:13:35,040  
这点毫无疑问。  
There's no doubt about that.  

209  
00:13:35,040 --> 00:13:37,640  
为了娱乐，他带着小提琴，  
For entertainment, he took his fiddle and er,  

210  
00:13:37,640 --> 00:13:41,240  
还有手风琴，所以真的是  
he also had a squeeze box and so it really was, you know,  

211  
00:13:41,240 --> 00:13:42,880  
路上的高端生活。  
high living on the road.  

212  
00:13:46,280 --> 00:13:51,040  
我喜爱威廉·戈登·斯特布尔斯的地方，是他那些关于  
What I love about William Gordon Stables, are his little homilies  

213  
00:13:51,040 --> 00:13:55,240  
路上生活和人生的小箴言和格言。  
and aphorisms about life on the road and about life in general.  

214  
00:13:55,240 --> 00:13:58,600  
"早早出发，一切顺利。  
"Make an early start and all will go well.  

215  
00:13:58,600 --> 00:14:02,160  
"反之，若早晨懒散拖延，  
"On the other hand, if you laze and dawdle in the morning,  

216  
00:14:02,160 --> 00:14:04,960  
"一天就会毁掉，午餐匆忙，  
"the day will be spoiled, luncheon will be hurried  

217  
00:14:04,960 --> 00:14:06,880  
"晚餐也会太晚"。  
"and dinner too late".  

218  
00:14:06,880 --> 00:14:11,440  
所以我必须和杰克继续前往下一站——  
Which is why I have to bash on with Jack to my next destination -  

219  
00:14:11,440 --> 00:14:14,360  
一个几个世纪以来与神话、  
a place that, for centuries, has been bound up with myth,  

220  
00:14:14,360 --> 00:14:16,440  
传说和浪漫紧密相连的地方。  
legend and romance.  

221  
00:14:19,600 --> 00:14:23,240  
古镇梅尔罗斯是维多利亚时代游客  
The ancient town of Melrose was a favourite haunt  

222  
00:14:23,240 --> 00:14:27,680  
最爱的去处，他们被这里的修道院废墟所吸引。  
of Victorian tourists, who were inspired by the ruined abbey.  

223  
00:14:27,680 --> 00:14:30,480  
《布莱克指南》对它的残垣断壁赞不绝口。  
Black's rhapsodises over its crumbling masonry.  

224  
00:14:32,880 --> 00:14:34,520  
"即使已成废墟也美丽依旧，  
"Beautiful, even in ruins,  

225  
00:14:34,520 --> 00:14:37,520  
"其风格的优雅与丰富使其堪称  
"the grace and affluence of its style entitles it to be  

226  
00:14:37,520 --> 00:14:40,600  
"上个时代最完美的  
"classed among the most perfect works of the last age  

227  
00:14:40,600 --> 00:14:42,720  
"宗教建筑作品之一。"  
"of ecclesiastical architecture."  

228  
00:14:44,720 --> 00:14:48,920  
但我的指南书是在追随而非引领游客。  
But my guide book was following, not leading the tourist.  

229  
00:14:48,920 --> 00:14:52,880  
修道院早已因沃尔特·斯科特爵士而闻名，  
The abbey had already been made famous by Sir Walter Scott,  

230  
00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:57,800  
这位多产作家和国家的文字魔法师。  
the prolific author and general wordsmith wizard of the nation.  

231  
00:14:57,800 --> 00:15:01,680  
在我看来，苏格兰旅游路线上  
It seems to me that just about anywhere famous on the Scottish  

232  
00:15:01,680 --> 00:15:05,600  
几乎所有著名景点都是因斯科特爵士而闻名，  
tourist trail, was made famous by Sir Walter,  

233  
00:15:05,600 --> 00:15:09,720  
梅尔罗斯修道院是最早被他的魔法笔  
and Melrose Abbey was one of the first places to be transformed  

234  
00:15:09,720 --> 00:15:12,880  
点化的地方之一。  
by the power of his magic pen.  

235  
00:15:15,880 --> 00:15:19,080  
"若要领略梅尔罗斯真貌  
"If thou woudst view fair Melrose a right  

236  
00:15:19,080 --> 00:15:22,280  
"请在苍白月光下造访  
"Go visit it by the pale moonlight  

237  
00:15:22,280 --> 00:15:25,160  
"当残破拱门隐入黑夜  
"When the broken arches are black in night  

238  
00:15:25,160 --> 00:15:27,960  
"每根柱廊泛着白光  
"And each shafted oriole glimmers white  

239  
00:15:27,960 --> 00:15:31,240  
"当远处特威德河咆哮  
"When distant Tweed is heard to rave  

240  
00:15:31,240 --> 00:15:35,520  
"猫头鹰在死者墓上啼叫"  
"And the owlet to hoot o'r the dead man's grave."  

241  
00:15:35,520 --> 00:15:38,040  
毛骨悚然。  
Spooky.  

242  
00:15:38,040 --> 00:15:42,840  
斯科特塑造的苏格兰形象激发了人们对超自然的热爱，  
Scott's image of Scotland encouraged an appetite for the supernatural,  

243  
00:15:42,840 --> 00:15:44,920  
这正是维多利亚时代人们所钟爱的。  
which Victorians loved.  

244  
00:15:44,920 --> 00:15:48,320  
与我一同讨论他们对恐怖事物偏好的  
Joining me to discuss their predilection for the macabre  

245  
00:15:48,320 --> 00:15:50,680  
是旅游历史学家埃里克·祖洛。  
is tourism historian Eric Zuelow.  

246  
00:15:51,920 --> 00:15:56,000  
埃里克，当你阅读《布莱克风景指南》这样的书时，  
Now, Eric, when you read a book like Black's Picturesque Guide  

247  
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:59,720  
会明显感觉到维多利亚时代的游客  
you get the distinct impression that the Victorian tourist was,  

248  
00:15:59,720 --> 00:16:03,000  
对废墟和死亡相当着迷。  
well, pretty fascinated with ruins and death.  

249  
00:16:03,000 --> 00:16:07,440  
他们对墓地的兴趣是因为存在死亡崇拜吗？  
Was there a death cult going on cos of their interest in graveyards?  

250  
00:16:07,440 --> 00:16:10,960  
他们看待死亡的方式与我们不同。  
Well, they didn't look at death in the same way that we do.  

251  
00:16:10,960 --> 00:16:14,040  
他们没有将死亡视为完全脱离  
They didn't make death something that was entirely separate  

252  
00:16:14,040 --> 00:16:15,480  
他们存在的事物。  
from their existence.  

253  
00:16:15,480 --> 00:16:19,680  
试图将可怕而终极的事物，  
Trying to take something that's scary and final,  

254  
00:16:19,680 --> 00:16:21,760  
封存在某个盒子里。  
and put it off in some box someplace.  

255  
00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:23,640  
他们不像我们这样做。  
They didn't do that the way we do.  

256  
00:16:23,640 --> 00:16:27,440  
他们会描写自己想要获得的  
They would write about this kind of an emotional response  

257  
00:16:27,440 --> 00:16:28,880  
情感回应。  
that they wanted to have.  

258  
00:16:28,880 --> 00:16:33,280  
他们会描写那种崇高的忧郁  
They would er, write about the sort of sublime melancholy  

259  
00:16:33,280 --> 00:16:36,000  
他们将要体验的感受，  
that they were going to experience,  

260  
00:16:36,000 --> 00:16:38,520  
但我不认为这与恐怖相同。  
but I don't think that's the same thing as horror.

261  
00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:41,280  
更多是那种由这个地方唤起的  
It's more that, again, that kind of an emotional feeling  

262  
00:16:41,280 --> 00:16:42,440  
情感体验。  
that the place evokes.  

263  
00:16:42,440 --> 00:16:44,000  
但与此同时...  
But at the same time...  

264  
00:16:45,680 --> 00:16:49,160  
..废墟不就是人类建造的  
..what is a ruin, if not a human-built construction  

265  
00:16:49,160 --> 00:16:54,920  
被时间和自然影响，  
that has been affected by time, and been affected by nature,  

266  
00:16:54,920 --> 00:17:01,080  
被风雨侵蚀而发生迷人变化的建筑吗？  
and the elements and that's changed and been eroded in compelling ways?  

267  
00:17:01,080 --> 00:17:06,400  
你可以来到这里，看着这些，感受时间的流逝。  
So you could come and you could look at this and you could see time.  

268  
00:17:06,400 --> 00:17:08,360  
所以你可以思考永恒？  
So you could contemplate eternity?  

269  
00:17:08,360 --> 00:17:09,840  
可以。  
You could.  

270  
00:17:09,840 --> 00:17:11,280  
绝妙的想法。  
A fantastic idea.  

271  
00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:15,760  
"有趣的是，这位用诗歌开创了  
'Interestingly, the man whose poems  

272  
00:17:15,760 --> 00:17:18,760  
如今所谓'黑暗旅游'的诗人，  
'started what we now call dark tourism,  

273  
00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:22,440  
据说从未在月光下见过梅尔罗斯。  
'is supposed never to have seen Melrose by moonlight.  

274  
00:17:22,440 --> 00:17:26,400  
"我猜沃尔特爵士更喜欢躺在床上，  
'I suspect that Sir Walter preferred his bed to traipsing  

275  
00:17:26,400 --> 00:17:28,240  
而不是深夜在墓地游荡。"  
'around graveyards at night.'  

276  
00:17:30,200 --> 00:17:33,760  
第二天，是时候将一种马力  
The following day, it's time to exchange one form of horse power  

277  
00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:39,120  
换成另一种，并与一位亲爱的老朋友重逢。  
for another, and to reacquaint myself with a dear old friend.  

278  
00:17:39,120 --> 00:17:43,120  
我刚与杰克和吉普赛大篷车深情告别，  
I've just said a fond farewell to Jack and the gypsy caravan,  

279  
00:17:43,120 --> 00:17:47,640  
接手一辆我心中珍爱的车辆。  
to take possession of a vehicle that's very dear to my own heart.  

280  
00:17:47,640 --> 00:17:49,120  
一辆大众露营车。  
A VW camper.  

281  
00:17:49,120 --> 00:17:53,680  
多年前我拥有过一辆，没有什么比原版  
Years ago, I had one of these and there's nothing that puts me  

282  
00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:57,600  
水平对置四缸风冷发动机的声音  
more in the holiday mood than the sound of the original  

283  
00:17:57,600 --> 00:18:00,320  
更能让我进入度假状态。  
flat-4 air-cooled engine.  

284  
00:18:00,320 --> 00:18:02,600  
[引擎启动声]  
ENGINE STARTS UP  

285  
00:18:02,600 --> 00:18:05,320  
其实这不是我期待的声音。  
Actually, that's not quite what I was expecting.  

286  
00:18:05,320 --> 00:18:08,760  
这实际上是备受喜爱的经典车型的现代版本。  
This is, in fact, a modern version of a much-loved favourite.  

287  
00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:10,480  
不过也行。  
Still, it'll do.  

288  
00:18:14,160 --> 00:18:16,400  
这辆露营车搭载的是Polo发动机，  
This camper van has a Polo engine  

289  
00:18:16,400 --> 00:18:18,880  
我必须说，我怀念年轻时买的那辆旧露营车  
and I have to say, I miss the rasping, wheezing,  

290  
00:18:18,880 --> 00:18:23,000  
刺耳、喘息般的轰鸣声。  
rattling roar of the old camper I bought as a young father.  

291  
00:18:23,000 --> 00:18:25,600  
那辆鲜艳的橙色露营车，  
Painted a vibrant orange,  

292  
00:18:25,600 --> 00:18:30,040  
"快乐胡萝卜"是成长中家庭的完美座驾。  
the "happy carrot" was the perfect vehicle for a growing family.  

293  
00:18:30,040 --> 00:18:32,440  
我们开着它走遍各地，  
We travelled everywhere in it,  

294  
00:18:32,440 --> 00:18:35,320  
在各种意想不到的地方过夜。  
spending the night in all manner of unlikely locations.  

295  
00:18:35,320 --> 00:18:38,720  
有一次甚至停在军队实弹射击场中央，  
Once in the middle of an army live firing range,  

296  
00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:41,520  
这对孩子们来说有点惊悚。  
which was a little distressing for the children.  

297  
00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:48,080  
20世纪60-70年代，大众露营车成为自由的象征，  
In the 1960s and '70s, the VW Camper became an icon of freedom,  

298  
00:18:48,080 --> 00:18:52,000  
涂着花童时代的彩虹色彩，  
painted in rainbow colours of the flower power era,  

299  
00:18:52,000 --> 00:18:54,680  
是嬉皮时尚的巅峰之作。  
it was the apotheosis of hippy chic.  

300  
00:18:57,600 --> 00:18:59,640  
严格来说，  
Strictly speaking, of course,  

301  
00:18:59,640 --> 00:19:03,280  
大众露营车不算房车因为它不需要拖拽，  
the VW Camper isn't a caravan because it isn't towed,  

302  
00:19:03,280 --> 00:19:06,880  
除非抛锚——我那辆经常如此。  
unless it breaks down, which mine frequently did.  

303  
00:19:06,880 --> 00:19:09,720  
但作为"漫游者"的更时髦版本，  
But as a groovier version of the Wanderer,  

304  
00:19:09,720 --> 00:19:12,960  
露营车绝对是先驱WG·斯特布尔斯  
the camper van is definitely part of the tradition established  

305  
00:19:12,960 --> 00:19:15,200  
开创的传统的一部分。  
by the pioneering WG Stables.  

306  
00:19:17,520 --> 00:19:21,280  
到20世纪50年代，房车已经堵塞了公路，  
By the 1950s, caravans were clogging the highways,  

307  
00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:24,400  
将郊区生活的所有舒适  
taking all the comforts of suburban living  

308  
00:19:24,400 --> 00:19:26,480  
带入乡村深处。  
into the depths of the countryside.  

309  
00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:29,720  
志同道合的爱好者们举办集会，  
Likeminded enthusiasts held rallies,  

310  
00:19:29,720 --> 00:19:32,560  
举行激动人心的房车比赛。  
where thrilling caravanning contests were held.  

311  
00:19:32,560 --> 00:19:35,920  
听说这类活动至今仍在继续。  
I'm told such things still go on.  

312  
00:19:39,560 --> 00:19:42,360  
我的大环线之旅现在从边境地区  
The route of my grand tour now takes me  

313  
00:19:42,360 --> 00:19:44,920  
前往南拉纳克郡，  
from the Borders to South Lanarkshire  

314  
00:19:44,920 --> 00:19:48,920  
探访早期游客必到的目的地。  
and a must-see destination for early tourists.  

315  
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:52,880  
克莱德瀑布群的科拉林  
The Corra Linn on the Falls of Clyde  

316  
00:19:52,880 --> 00:19:56,960  
几乎是19世纪每位来苏格兰的游客都会造访的地方，  
was visited by just about everyone who came to Scotland as a tourist  

317  
00:19:56,960 --> 00:20:01,120  
他们都写信回家热情描述  
in the 19th century, and they all wrote home ecstatically about  

318  
00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:07,640  
在这处瀑布遇到的狂野强大的自然力量。  
the wild, powerful force of nature they encountered in the cataract.  

319  
00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:14,600  
这壮观景象激发了诗人威廉·华兹华斯的诗兴。  
It was a spectacle that inspired the poet, William Wordsworth, to verse.  

320  
00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:18,440  
"谷地之主！惊人的洪流！  
"Lord of the Vale! astounding Flood!  

321  
00:20:18,440 --> 00:20:21,040  
"这密林中最迟钝的树叶  
"The dullest leaf in this thick wood  

322  
00:20:21,040 --> 00:20:24,240  
"也因你的力量而颤抖"  
"Quakes - conscious of thy power."  

323  
00:20:24,240 --> 00:20:29,680  
但如你所见，今天的科拉林不再是激流，  
But, as you can see, today the Corra Linn is less of a cataract  

324  
00:20:29,680 --> 00:20:33,160  
更像是涓涓细流，这是有原因的。  
and more of a trickle, and there's a reason for that.  

325  
00:20:33,160 --> 00:20:38,120  
"自20世纪30年代以来，科拉林的威力与戏剧性  
'Since the 1930s, the power and drama of the Corra Linn has been  

326  
00:20:38,120 --> 00:20:42,800  
"被水电工程驯服，变得平淡许多。"  
'tamed by a hydroelectric scheme, making them much less dramatic.'  

327  
00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:46,640  
即使在华兹华斯的时代，瀑布的工业潜力  
Even in Wordsworth's day, the industrial potential of the falls  

328  
00:20:46,640 --> 00:20:49,960  
已被有进取心的资本家发掘。  
had been realised by enterprising capitalists.  

329  
00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:53,840  
新拉纳克的棉纺厂和工人村  
The cotton mills and workers village here at New Lanark, were already  

330  
00:20:53,840 --> 00:20:56,280  
已经在利用克莱德河的急流  
harnessing the rushing waters of the Clyde  

331  
00:20:56,280 --> 00:20:59,440  
驱动制造机械。  
to power the machinery of manufacture.  

332  
00:21:02,600 --> 00:21:04,960  
虽然水车仍在转动，  
Although the mill wheels still turn,  

333  
00:21:04,960 --> 00:21:08,520  
拉纳克现在已成为工业革命的博物馆，  
Lanark is now a museum to the Industrial Revolution  

334  
00:21:08,520 --> 00:21:14,560  
这场革命改变了苏格兰并催生了一种新型旅游。  
that transformed Scotland and created a new form of tourism.  

335  
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:16,320  
在19和20世纪，  
In the 19th and 20th centuries,  

336  
00:21:16,320 --> 00:21:19,800  
拉纳克郡是苏格兰工业的心脏。  
Lanarkshire was the heart of industrial Scotland.  

337  
00:21:19,800 --> 00:21:23,000  
而最能象征科学与工程进步的  
And nowhere symbolises more the progress that had been made  

338  
00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:26,120  
莫过于格拉斯哥，  
in science and engineering than Glasgow,  

339  
00:21:26,120 --> 00:21:28,960  
这也是我的下一站。  
which is where I'm heading next.  

340  
00:21:30,040 --> 00:21:35,480  
当英国小说家丹尼尔·笛福1707年造访格拉斯哥时，  
When the English novelist Daniel Defoe visited Glasgow in 1707,  

341  
00:21:35,480 --> 00:21:37,120  
他印象深刻。  
he was impressed.  

342  
00:21:37,120 --> 00:21:40,640  
"格拉斯哥确实是座美丽的城市。四条主街  
"Glasgow is indeed a very fine city. The four principal streets  

343  
00:21:40,640 --> 00:21:44,800  
"是我见过最宽阔、建造最精美的街道。  
"are the fairest for breadth and the finest built I have ever seen.  

344  
00:21:44,800 --> 00:21:47,280  
"总之，这是英国最干净、  
"In a word, tis the cleanest,  

345  
00:21:47,280 --> 00:21:52,000  
"最美丽、建造最完善的城市，伦敦除外。"  
"beautifulest and best-built city in Britain, London excepted."  

346  
00:21:52,000 --> 00:21:56,600  
来自笛福这样极度偏袒英格兰的人，  
Now, coming from an extremely biased and partisan Englishman like Defoe,  

347  
00:21:56,600 --> 00:22:00,760  
这确实是高度赞扬，不过我猜是  
this is praise indeed, though I suspect it's a loyalty  

348  
00:22:00,760 --> 00:22:05,000  
对家乡城市的忠诚让许多现代格拉斯哥人  
to their home city that blinkers a lot of modern Glaswegians  

349  
00:22:05,000 --> 00:22:10,040  
对明显的事实视而不见——笛福时代之后变化太大了。  
to the very obvious fact that, well, a lot's changed since Defoe's time.  

350  
00:22:13,440 --> 00:22:16,560  
笛福造访时，格拉斯哥还未被  
Defoe visited the city before Glasgow was transformed  

351  
00:22:16,560 --> 00:22:20,320  
工业革命改变。  
by the Industrial Revolution.  

352  
00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:23,720  
那时称它为"亲爱的绿色之地"很贴切。  
Then, it made sense to talk about the dear, green place.  

353  
00:22:23,720 --> 00:22:26,880  
当时这里只有1.2万居民，  
Only 12,000 people lived here back then  

354  
00:22:26,880 --> 00:22:30,120  
有充足空间享受阳光。  
so there was plenty of space to enjoy the sunshine.  

355  
00:22:30,120 --> 00:22:32,160  
但随着19世纪的发展，  
But as the 19th century progressed,  

356  
00:22:32,160 --> 00:22:36,120  
工业与创新将格拉斯哥变成  
industry and innovation turned Glasgow  

357  
00:22:36,120 --> 00:22:37,840  
帝国的第二大城市。  
into the second city of empire.  

358  
00:22:37,840 --> 00:22:41,840  
旅游指南书庆祝它的新地位，  
Its new-found status was celebrated by guide books,  

359  
00:22:41,840 --> 00:22:43,640  
游客蜂拥而来，  
and tourists flocked to gape  

360  
00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:47,800  
惊叹这座英国新兴的工业重镇。  
at the new industrial powerhouse of Britain.  

361  
00:22:47,800 --> 00:22:51,560  
与沉浸在历史浪漫中的苏格兰其他地区不同，  
Unlike the rest of Scotland, which was steeped in the romance  

362  
00:22:51,560 --> 00:22:54,720  
格拉斯哥为维多利亚时代的游客提供  
of the past, Glasgow offered the Victorian tourist  

363  
00:22:54,720 --> 00:22:57,160  
完全不同的体验。  
a completely different experience.  

364  
00:22:57,160 --> 00:23:00,440  
来到这座帝国第二大城市，  
To come to the second city of empire was to cross  

365  
00:23:00,440 --> 00:23:02,840  
就是跨越边界进入另一个世界。  
a border into another world.  

366  
00:23:02,840 --> 00:23:05,920  
在这里，可以看到未来正在工业革命的  
It was to see the future being forged in the furnaces  

367  
00:23:05,920 --> 00:23:08,200  
熔炉中锻造。  
of the Industrial Revolution.  

368  
00:23:08,200 --> 00:23:12,600  
这里工业城市的风光，  
Here, the landscape of the industrial city was just as exciting  

369  
00:23:12,600 --> 00:23:17,040  
与高地的狂野浪漫景色同样激动人心、壮丽非凡。  
and sublime as the wild and romantic landscapes of the Highlands.  

370  
00:23:18,200 --> 00:23:21,080  
为庆祝这个勇敢的新世界，  
In celebration of this brave new world,  

371  
00:23:21,080 --> 00:23:26,280  
格拉斯哥在凯尔文格罗夫公园举办了国际展览会。  
Glasgow held an international exhibition in Kelvingrove Park.  

372  
00:23:26,280 --> 00:23:30,120  
"为了解更多，我来到凯尔文格罗夫博物馆  
'To find out more, I've come to Kelvingrove Museum to meet  

373  
00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:31,680  
"会见策展人休·史蒂文森。"  
'curator Hugh Stevenson.'  

374  
00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:35,080  
当时的格拉斯哥自称帝国第二城，  
Well, Glasgow at that time, was calling itself the second city  

375  
00:23:35,080 --> 00:23:39,840  
主要因为克莱德河沿岸庞大的重工业——  
of the empire, largely because of the huge amount of heavy engineering  

376  
00:23:39,840 --> 00:23:42,680  
造船、机车制造等等。  
that was going on round about the Clyde - ship building,  

377  
00:23:42,680 --> 00:23:44,400  
locomotive building, etc.  

378  
00:23:44,400 --> 00:23:48,200  
它处于创新与发明的前沿。  
And it was at the forefront of innovation and invention.  

379  
00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:50,760  
显然人们对此非常兴奋。  
So people were all obviously very excited by this.  

380  
00:23:50,760 --> 00:23:54,280  
所以这次展览某种程度上展示了  
So, in a sense, this was an exhibition of the modern world  

381  
00:23:54,280 --> 00:23:56,160  
维多利亚时代的现代世界，  
as it was in Victorian times,  

382  
00:23:56,160 --> 00:23:58,520  
参观者可以某种程度上  
and visitors would have been able to glimpse,  

383  
00:23:58,520 --> 00:24:01,400  
窥见维多利亚人眼中的未来。  
to some extent, the idea of a Victorian future.  

384  
00:24:01,400 --> 00:24:04,400  
确实如此，当然对生产商来说  
Yes, indeed, and of course, it was also a great chance  

385  
00:24:04,400 --> 00:24:08,280  
这也是在全球寻找新市场的良机。  
for the producers to find new markets the world over.  

386  
00:24:08,280 --> 00:24:11,040  
那他们如何展示商品呢？  
So, how would they display their wares, then?  

387  
00:24:11,040 --> 00:24:13,560  
比如一台巨型发动机  
I mean, if you've got a... I don't know, a huge engine  

388  
00:24:13,560 --> 00:24:14,920  
或一艘蒸汽船，  
or you've got a steam ship,  

389  
00:24:14,920 --> 00:24:17,440  
怎么带到展览会上？  
how would you bring that to an exhibition?  

390  
00:24:17,440 --> 00:24:19,960  
可以在机械展厅展示，  
Well, they could show them in the Machinery Hall,  

391  
00:24:19,960 --> 00:24:22,400  
展览会巨大的机械展厅里。  
the great big Machinery Hall of the exhibition.

392  
00:24:22,400 --> 00:24:25,400  
他们可以在那里展示实物大小的展品  
They could show full-size objects there  

393  
00:24:25,400 --> 00:24:30,320  
也能展示精美模型，比如我们面前展柜里  
but they could also show beautiful models, like the one in front of us in the showcase just now,  

394  
00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:34,760  
邓巴顿造船商丹尼公司制作的这个。  
which is made by Denny & Company, the shipbuilders of Dumbarton.  

395  
00:24:34,760 --> 00:24:37,000  
这是他们的船用发动机之一。  
One of their marine engines.  

396  
00:24:38,600 --> 00:24:42,560  
当然这里展出的不只有重工业。  
Of course, it wasn't just heavy industry that was on display here.  

397  
00:24:42,560 --> 00:24:45,280  
还有工艺美术品，  
There were arts and crafts exhibited,  

398  
00:24:45,280 --> 00:24:49,160  
以及格拉斯哥首次出现的荷兰范豪顿公司  
and available for the first time in Glasgow, hot cocoa  

399  
00:24:49,160 --> 00:24:51,440  
生产的热可可。  
from the Dutch firm Van Houten.  

400  
00:24:51,440 --> 00:24:53,760  
有早期游乐场设施，  
There were early fairground attractions  

401  
00:24:53,760 --> 00:24:58,920  
在主建筑穹顶旁——被格拉斯哥人称为"凯尔文河畔巴格达"的地方——  
and beside the dome of the main building, which Glaswegians dubbed Baghdad On Kelvin,  

402  
00:24:58,920 --> 00:25:02,400  
还能体验一种极具异域风情的交通工具。  
a very exotic form of transport was available.  

403  
00:25:02,400 --> 00:25:06,360  
休，这张照片真迷人。  
That's a really fascinating picture there, Hugh.  

404  
00:25:06,360 --> 00:25:09,160  
是"凯尔文河畔巴格达"吗？  
Is that a view of Baghdad On Kelvin?  

405  
00:25:09,160 --> 00:25:13,920  
正是。这是带穹顶的主工业展厅，前面  
Yes, indeed. That's the main industrial hall with the dome and in front of you,  

406  
00:25:13,920 --> 00:25:17,320  
可以看到凯尔文河，仔细看的话  
you can see the River Kelvin, and, of course, if you look closely  

407  
00:25:17,320 --> 00:25:22,880  
会发现一艘真正的威尼斯贡多拉，游客可以  
you see a gondola, a real gondola brought in from Venice and you could  

408  
00:25:22,880 --> 00:25:26,640  
乘坐它在凯尔文河上游览。  
have had a ride on the River Kelvin in that gondola.  

409  
00:25:27,960 --> 00:25:33,120  
"当然，一个展现如此多维多利亚时代企业家精神的盛会  
'Of course, a festival dedicated to so much Victorian entrepreneurship  

410  
00:25:33,120 --> 00:25:36,480  
"自然不会错过我们今天熟悉的营销手段——  
'could hardly miss out on a trick familiar to us all today -  

411  
00:25:36,480 --> 00:25:38,760  
"周边商品。"  
'merchandising.'  

412  
00:25:38,760 --> 00:25:43,760  
这些商品是在哪里制造的？希望是在格拉斯哥本地  
Where would these items have been manufactured? Hopefully they would have been manufactured  

413  
00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:46,800  
但我想不全是吧？  
here in Glasgow, but I don't think that's the full story, is it?  

414  
00:25:46,800 --> 00:25:51,320  
没错。有些确实是本地制造，但很多来自国外。  
That's true. Some were no doubt manufactured here but quite a lot were manufactured abroad.  

415  
00:25:51,320 --> 00:25:58,000  
比如这个精美的瓷盘，上面印着展览会场馆景色，是德国制造的。  
The lovely porcelain plate, for example, with the view of the grounds of the exhibition on it, is German.  

416  
00:25:58,000 --> 00:26:01,360  
那些陶罐可能产自英格兰。  
And the earthenware jugs there were possibly made in England.  

417  
00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:03,960  
我们不确定具体产地。  
We're not quite sure where they came from.  

418  
00:26:03,960 --> 00:26:06,520  
其他纪念品则来自欧洲各地。  
Er, other souvenirs were made all over Europe.  

419  
00:26:08,120 --> 00:26:11,640  
啊，这或许预示着未来的趋势。  
Ah, well. A taste of things to come, perhaps.  

420  
00:26:11,640 --> 00:26:14,600  
但数百万人涌入这里，  
But crowds came here in their millions,  

421  
00:26:14,600 --> 00:26:18,600  
展览会如此成功，筹集的资金足够  
and such was the success of the exhibition that enough money  

422  
00:26:18,600 --> 00:26:23,160  
建造今天这座博物馆。  
was raised to build the museum that stands here today.  

423  
00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:26,760  
体验过维多利亚时代未来的震撼后，  
Having experienced the thrill of a Victorian future,  

424  
00:26:26,760 --> 00:26:30,800  
许多游客会继续他们的环线之旅，前往  
many tourists would continue their grand tour with a visit to  

425  
00:26:30,800 --> 00:26:33,160  
一个氛围更阴郁的地点。  
a location with a much darker feel.  

426  
00:26:40,200 --> 00:26:44,040  
"在格拉斯哥拥挤街道的烟雾与尘埃之上，  
'Rising about the smoke and stoor of Glasgow's crowded streets,  

427  
00:26:44,040 --> 00:26:47,200  
"矗立着一座曾对德鲁伊神圣的山丘。  
'is a hill that was once sacred to the Druids.  

428  
00:26:47,200 --> 00:26:50,280  
"维多利亚时代的人们来此寻求宁静。  
'A place where Victorians went for peace and quiet.  

429  
00:26:50,280 --> 00:26:51,760  
"休憩与沉思。  
'For repose and reflection.  

430  
00:26:51,760 --> 00:26:55,760  
"死者之城——大墓地。  
'The Necropolis - the city of the dead.  

431  
00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:59,440  
"维多利亚时代格拉斯哥的实业家、企业家  
'This is where the industrialists, entrepreneurs  

432  
00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:04,240  
"和科学家们在此安息。  
'and scientists of Victorian Glasgow were laid to rest.  

433  
00:27:04,240 --> 00:27:07,040  
"生前，他们坚信自己的伟大  
'In life, they had believed in their greatness  

434  
00:27:07,040 --> 00:27:09,160  
"与城市的伟大。  
'and the greatness of their city.  

435  
00:27:09,160 --> 00:27:13,240  
"死后，冰冷的石质纪念碑将提醒后世  
'In death, memorials of cold stone and marble would remind future  

436  
00:27:13,240 --> 00:27:17,440  
"他们的辉煌——如果你能透过工业污染的污垢  
'generations of their brilliance, if you could read their names  

437  
00:27:17,440 --> 00:27:21,720  
"辨认出他们的名字。"  
'through the grime of industrial pollution.'  

438  
00:27:21,720 --> 00:27:25,560  
苏格兰少有像大墓地这样  
There can be few places in Scotland where there's such grandiloquence  

439  
00:27:25,560 --> 00:27:28,800  
在死亡上如此铺张的地方。  
in death as here at the Necropolis.  

440  
00:27:28,800 --> 00:27:30,640  
如果你对墓地感兴趣，  
And if graveyards do it for you,  

441  
00:27:30,640 --> 00:27:33,480  
这里堪称顶级。  
then they don't get much better than this.  

442  
00:27:34,560 --> 00:27:38,760  
《布莱克指南》也这么认为，它敦促游客走过  
Black's thought so too, urging the tourist to pass over  

443  
00:27:38,760 --> 00:27:42,440  
叹息桥，登上这座  
the Bridge Of Sighs and to climb the hill which is  

444  
00:27:42,440 --> 00:27:47,400  
"灌木丛生、布满各式纪念碑的山丘，  
"Rich with shrubberies, bristling with every variety of monumental  

445  
00:27:47,400 --> 00:27:51,440  
"有些设计非常精美典雅。"  
"erection, some of them very beautiful and chaste in design."  

446  
00:27:54,040 --> 00:27:58,160  
在墓园中，维多利亚时代的游客被邀请思考  
Amongst the graves, the Victorian tourist was invited to reflect  

447  
00:27:58,160 --> 00:28:01,440  
生死问题，沉思人类的成就。  
upon mortality and to contemplate the works of man.  

448  
00:28:04,920 --> 00:28:09,040  
从这里还能俯瞰城市全景，  
From up here, you also get a wonderful panorama of the city,  

449  
00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:11,160  
当然是在不下雨的时候。  
at least when it's not raining.  

450  
00:28:11,160 --> 00:28:14,640  
但对从英格兰跨越边境而来的维多利亚游客来说，  
But for the Victorian tourist who crossed the border from England,  

451  
00:28:14,640 --> 00:28:19,320  
这景象代表着跨越另一种边界。  
this represented a view across a different kind of border.  

452  
00:28:19,320 --> 00:28:21,880  
漫步在昔日辉煌的阴影中，  
Walking in the shadow of past greatness,  

453  
00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:25,800  
维多利亚时代的访客可以从大墓地俯瞰  
the Victorian visitor could look down from the Necropolis  

454  
00:28:25,800 --> 00:28:31,400  
未来——一个工业化的、已经消逝的未来。  
and into the future - an industrial future and one that's been and gone.  

455  
00:28:31,400 --> 00:28:34,280  
对我而言，这就像《回到未来》式的结尾，  
Which is a kind of Back To The Future way for me  

456  
00:28:34,280 --> 00:28:37,680  
为我的第一次苏格兰大环线之旅画上句点。  
to end my first Grand Tour Of Scotland.  

457  
00:28:40,240 --> 00:28:42,640  
欢迎加入我的下一次环线之旅，  
Join me on my next Grand Tour,  

458  
00:28:42,640 --> 00:28:45,360  
届时我将探寻自然之美。  
when I go in search of elemental beauty.