1 00:00:06,708 --> 00:00:08,553 - 斯凯岛。 - The island of Skye. 2 00:00:08,603 --> 00:00:12,553 盖尔语中称为"迷雾之岛"， In Gaelic, Eilean a’ Cheo, the island of mist, 3 00:00:12,603 --> 00:00:15,103 长久以来以神话传说闻名。 long famed in myth and legend. 4 00:00:16,996 --> 00:00:20,426 根据歌谣与传统， According to song and tradition, the time honored way 5 00:00:20,476 --> 00:00:23,564 前往这座岛屿的古老方式 of reaching the island is to take a boat 6 00:00:23,614 --> 00:00:25,497 是乘船跨海而至。 over the sea to Skye. 7 00:00:28,394 --> 00:00:32,139 我一直被岛屿所吸引， I’ve always been drawn to islands, and in this series, 8 00:00:32,189 --> 00:00:34,923 在这个系列中，我将探索 I’m setting out to discover the magic of Scotland’s 9 00:00:34,973 --> 00:00:36,806 苏格兰神奇岛屿的魅力。 amazing island riches. 10 00:00:38,094 --> 00:00:42,072 这里有280多座近海岛屿 There are over 280 offshore islands big enough 11 00:00:42,122 --> 00:00:44,061 面积足以被称为岛屿。 to lay claim to the name. 12 00:00:44,111 --> 00:00:47,576 这还不包括环绕着 And that’s not counting the myriad of stacks and skerries 13 00:00:47,626 --> 00:00:51,459 6000英里曲折海岸线的无数礁石与小岛。 that surround 6,000 convoluted miles of coast. 14 00:00:53,849 --> 00:00:57,163 本期节目中，我将探索 In this program, I’m exploring the neighboring islands 15 00:00:57,213 --> 00:01:01,137 斯凯岛与拉赛岛这对近邻， of Skye and Raasay, where some communities have won 16 00:01:01,187 --> 00:01:04,432 这里的社区在生存斗争中有的成功有的失败。 and others lost in the struggle for survival. 17 00:01:17,705 --> 00:01:21,070 斯凯岛坐落于西海岸外 Lying just off the west coast across the famous 18 00:01:21,120 --> 00:01:25,010 与著名的洛哈尔什教区隔海相望， Kyle of Lochalsh, Skye is the second largest island 19 00:01:25,060 --> 00:01:29,991 是苏格兰第二大岛，人口持续增长近万人。 in Scotland and has a growing population of nearly 10,000. 20 00:01:30,041 --> 00:01:34,355 而邻近的拉赛岛人口持续流失 But neighboring Raasay struggles to hold onto its population 21 00:01:34,405 --> 00:01:37,176 已减少至不足200人。 which has shrunk to less than 200. 22 00:01:37,226 --> 00:01:40,803 但岛屿生活从来不易。 But island life has never been easy. 23 00:01:40,853 --> 00:01:44,853 严格来说，斯凯岛在1992年 Technically, Skye ceased to be an island in 1992 24 00:01:45,718 --> 00:01:48,900 因争议性的斯凯大桥开通 with the opening of the controversial Skye Bridge 25 00:01:48,950 --> 00:01:53,117 横跨狭窄的洛哈尔什海峡后就不再是岛屿。 which spans the narrow waters of the Kyle of Lochalsh. 26 00:01:54,975 --> 00:01:58,809 过去，汽车渡轮在洛哈尔什海峡 In the old days, car ferries shuttled back and forth 27 00:01:58,859 --> 00:02:02,856 往返运送当地人和游客—— across the Kyle carrying locals, and of course tourists 28 00:02:02,906 --> 00:02:05,623 如今游客已成为岛上 who’ve become such an important part of the island's 29 00:02:05,673 --> 00:02:08,276 经济生存的重要部分。 means of economic survival. 30 00:02:08,326 --> 00:02:12,493 但在1968年，渡轮一次只能载四辆车。 But in 1968, the ferry could only take four cars at a time. 31 00:02:13,358 --> 00:02:17,525 因此过海可能要等上数小时。 As a result, you could wait for hours just to get across. 32 00:02:18,415 --> 00:02:22,533 解决方案是建桥，从水上望去 The solution was to build a bridge, and seen from the water, 33 00:02:22,583 --> 00:02:25,535 这座固定连接的变革性影响 the transforming effect of this fixed link 34 00:02:25,585 --> 00:02:27,100 尤为显著。 really strikes home. 35 00:02:27,150 --> 00:02:31,317 如今人们驱车跨海前往斯凯岛 Now people drive over the sea to Skye, up to 20,000 cars 36 00:02:32,368 --> 00:02:35,285 繁忙时日通行车辆达2万辆。 and their passengers on a busy day. 37 00:02:39,257 --> 00:02:42,410 这座桥并非一跨而过 The bridge doesn’t cross the Kyle in a single leap, 38 00:02:42,460 --> 00:02:45,992 而是分段跨越，中途的支点 it hops across, and the place where it rests its legs 39 00:02:46,042 --> 00:02:49,452 是白岛—— for a while is Eilean Ban, an island 40 00:02:49,502 --> 00:02:51,749 一个有着独特故事的小岛。 with a unique story to tell. 41 00:02:51,799 --> 00:02:52,582 你好，朱莉。 Hi, Julie. 42 00:02:52,632 --> 00:02:54,036 - 欢迎来到白岛。 - Welcome to Eilean Ban. 43 00:02:54,086 --> 00:02:56,622 朱莉协助运营白岛信托基金 Julie helps run the Eilean Ban Trust, 44 00:02:56,672 --> 00:02:59,225 负责管理这座岛屿。 which takes care of the island. 45 00:02:59,275 --> 00:03:01,689 作为导游，她熟知 As a tour guide, she’s well acquainted 46 00:03:01,739 --> 00:03:05,713 这片水域的历史意义。 with the historical significance of these waters. 47 00:03:05,763 --> 00:03:07,844 - 早在维京时代 - Way back when the Vikings were here, 48 00:03:07,894 --> 00:03:11,131 这里就是他们穿行的重要通道 it was a very important area for them to come through 49 00:03:11,181 --> 00:03:13,615 因为显然比外赫布里底海域 these narrows because obviously it was much safer 50 00:03:13,665 --> 00:03:15,818 安全得多。 than right out there in the outer Minch. 51 00:03:15,868 --> 00:03:18,550 有个关于"骚西玛丽"的传说。 And there’s a legend, Saucy Mary. 52 00:03:18,600 --> 00:03:19,441 - 骚西玛丽，对。 - Saucy Mary, right. 53 00:03:19,491 --> 00:03:20,274 - 嗯，这个—— - Yeah, well, it-- 54 00:03:20,324 --> 00:03:21,263 - 她很风骚吗？ - Was she saucy? 55 00:03:21,313 --> 00:03:23,268 我可说不准。 I really couldn’t say. 56 00:03:23,318 --> 00:03:27,146 据传她是位挪威公主 She was allegedly a princess, a Norwegian princess 57 00:03:27,196 --> 00:03:29,755 住在那边古城堡里 who lived in the old ruined castle over there, 58 00:03:29,805 --> 00:03:33,121 传说她有条锁链 and the legend goes that she had a chain which she 59 00:03:33,171 --> 00:03:36,697 横跨在凯利金与凯尔之间。 stretched across from Kyleakin to Kyle. 60 00:03:36,747 --> 00:03:38,315 不交钱就不让过。 And she wouldn’t let anybody else by 61 00:03:38,365 --> 00:03:39,362 颇有讽刺意味 without them paying a toll. 62 00:03:39,412 --> 00:03:40,392 是啊。 Right. 63 00:03:40,442 --> 00:03:43,166 - 因为当初建桥时—— - Which is rather ironic really because when they first 64 00:03:43,216 --> 00:03:44,407 - 也收过路费 built the bridge-- 65 00:03:44,457 --> 00:03:45,301 - 我记得 - They had a toll, I remember. 66 00:03:45,351 --> 00:03:49,518 - 收费还很贵 - They had a toll and it was very expensive, yes. 67 00:03:50,356 --> 00:03:52,901 - 白岛曾长期居住着 - For many years, Eilean Ban was inhabited 68 00:03:52,951 --> 00:03:55,922 灯塔看守人及其家属。 by lighthouse keepers and their families. 69 00:03:55,972 --> 00:03:59,935 1960年代他们离开后，作家兼博物学家 After they left in the 1960s, the author and naturalist, 70 00:03:59,985 --> 00:04:04,527 加文·麦克斯韦在临终前买下该岛。 Gavin Maxwell, bought the island shortly before he died. 71 00:04:04,577 --> 00:04:07,462 他因《明亮的浪花》 He’d risen to fame with the book and the film 72 00:04:07,512 --> 00:04:10,584 一书及改编电影成名 Ring of Bright Water, which told the story 73 00:04:10,634 --> 00:04:12,634 讲述他与水獭共处的故事。 of his life with otters. 74 00:04:13,884 --> 00:04:17,061 朱莉的同事玛格丽特·斯科特 Julie’s colleague, Margaret Scott, shows me around 75 00:04:17,111 --> 00:04:21,041 带我参观麦克斯韦故居 Maxwell’s former home which is now a museum 76 00:04:21,091 --> 00:04:23,394 现已成这位传奇人物的纪念馆。 to a remarkable life. 77 00:04:23,444 --> 00:04:24,349 - 这里 - Right. 78 00:04:24,399 --> 00:04:25,182 - 他就住这儿？ - So this is where he lived? 79 00:04:25,232 --> 00:04:26,110 - 是的 - Yes, this is where-- 80 00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:27,102 - 房间真棒 - Wow, what a fantastic room. 81 00:04:27,152 --> 00:04:28,630 - 是吧？ - It is, isn’t it? 82 00:04:28,680 --> 00:04:30,514 他人生最后18个月 It’s where he lived for the last 18 months 83 00:04:30,564 --> 00:04:32,064 就住在这里。 or so of his life. 84 00:04:33,218 --> 00:04:36,057 他想要个长厅 And he wanted it to be a long room, a long sitting room 85 00:04:36,107 --> 00:04:37,799 招待朋友。 to entertain friends. 86 00:04:37,849 --> 00:04:40,498 所以打通了两间房。 So he knocked two rooms together. 87 00:04:40,548 --> 00:04:42,422 - 在小岛上看到这么 - It’s not what you expect on a wee island 88 00:04:42,472 --> 00:04:43,255 - 气派的房间 to see something - No, it isn’t. 89 00:04:43,305 --> 00:04:44,669 - 真想不到，玛格丽特 - quite as grand as this, Margaret. 90 00:04:44,719 --> 00:04:47,051 简直称得上奢华了 It’s almost sumptuous really in a way. 91 00:04:47,101 --> 00:04:50,588 - 确实，但他本是贵族 - It is, but he was an aristocrat and I think 92 00:04:50,638 --> 00:04:51,421 人们常忘记这点 people forget that. 93 00:04:51,471 --> 00:04:54,740 以为他是落魄作家 They think he was a down and out sort of writer. 94 00:04:54,790 --> 00:04:56,561 - 所以他血管里流着蓝血？ - So he had blue blood running through his veins, did he? 95 00:04:56,611 --> 00:04:57,695 - 没错 - Yes, he had blue blood. 96 00:04:57,745 --> 00:04:58,943 他母亲是 His mother was the daughter 97 00:04:58,993 --> 00:05:00,600 诺森伯兰公爵之女 of the Duke of Northumberland. 98 00:05:00,650 --> 00:05:01,433 - 真的？ - Oh, really? 99 00:05:01,483 --> 00:05:02,266 - 是的 - Yes, mm-hmm. 100 00:05:02,316 --> 00:05:03,345 - 那他其实非常上流？ - So he was really very posh then? 101 00:05:03,395 --> 00:05:04,880 - 非常 - Yes, oh, yes, very posh, yes. 102 00:05:04,930 --> 00:05:05,993 - 所以这些古董？ - So hence the antiques? 103 00:05:06,043 --> 00:05:06,876 - 对 - Yes. 104 00:05:09,273 --> 00:05:11,448 尽管生于富贵之家 Despite being born with a silver spoon 105 00:05:11,498 --> 00:05:15,223 麦克斯韦却总囊中羞涩 in his mouth, Maxwell was always hard up, 106 00:05:15,273 --> 00:05:18,552 常向亲戚借钱 often scrounging off relatives, and even staying 107 00:05:18,602 --> 00:05:21,013 在朋友家一住数月 with chums for months on end, 108 00:05:21,063 --> 00:05:24,875 幻想各种生财之道。 dreaming up unlikely schemes for making money. 109 00:05:24,925 --> 00:05:28,902 - 他曾想捕猎姥鲨赚钱 - He had this idea of going fishing for basking sharks, 110 00:05:28,952 --> 00:05:31,912 确实赚了些钱 he made quite a lot of money, but as usual he did it 111 00:05:31,962 --> 00:05:35,941 但只经营了两年半 for about 2 1/2 years, he had a fishery on the island 112 00:05:35,991 --> 00:05:39,742 在斯凯岛西海岸埃尔戈附近的索埃岛 of Soay just off Elgol on the west coast of Skye 113 00:05:39,792 --> 00:05:43,334 最后还是血本无归。 and eventually he just lost all his money. 114 00:05:43,384 --> 00:05:46,404 他那么爱动物 To think how he loved animals and yet he could go 115 00:05:46,454 --> 00:05:49,723 却用凶器捕杀姥鲨 and stick these awful things into basking sharks. 116 00:05:49,773 --> 00:05:51,112 - 贵族就是如此吧？ - Well, that’s the aristocracy for you, isn’t it? 117 00:05:51,162 --> 00:05:52,437 - 他们射杀鸟类 - Yeah, they shoot birds - They think they love animals 118 00:05:52,487 --> 00:05:53,512 - 做成标本 - and stuff them, don’t they? - But they shoot them. 119 00:05:53,562 --> 00:05:54,496 - 是啊 - Yes. 120 00:05:54,546 --> 00:05:55,441 - 打猎射击钓鱼 - Hunting, shooting, and fishing. 121 00:05:55,491 --> 00:05:58,658 - 贵族三件套 - Hunting, shooting, and fishing, yes. 122 00:05:59,979 --> 00:06:03,006 冒险生涯的其他纪念品包括 Among other mementos to an adventurous life 123 00:06:03,056 --> 00:06:05,922 这张麦克斯韦驾驶豪华宾利 is this photograph of Maxwell behind the wheel 124 00:06:05,972 --> 00:06:10,192 参加银石赛车的照片 of his fabulous Bentley racing car at Silverstone. 125 00:06:10,242 --> 00:06:12,287 橱窗里还有 And in this cabinet the remains 126 00:06:12,337 --> 00:06:15,150 一把华丽的军用左轮残件。 of an ornate service revolver. 127 00:06:15,200 --> 00:06:19,477 - 战争期间他受雇于国防部 - During the war he was employed by the MOD 128 00:06:19,527 --> 00:06:23,694 培训特别行动执行处人员 to train people in the Special Operations Executive. 129 00:06:24,600 --> 00:06:25,383 - 真的？ - Oh, really? 130 00:06:25,433 --> 00:06:29,271 - 教导敌后生存技能 - To sort of look after themselves behind enemy lines. 131 00:06:29,321 --> 00:06:32,244 这把枪是挪威政府 So this gun was actually given to him by 132 00:06:32,294 --> 00:06:35,301 赠予他的 the Norwegian government and this is actually 133 00:06:35,351 --> 00:06:38,377 是007式手枪 a James Bond type gun because it goes into 134 00:06:38,427 --> 00:06:39,518 可伪装成钢笔 a thing like a pen. 135 00:06:39,568 --> 00:06:40,351 - 真的吗？ - Oh, right, really? 136 00:06:40,401 --> 00:06:43,580 - 据说能在黑暗中30秒内 - Yes, and you’re supposed to be able to make it into a gun, 137 00:06:43,630 --> 00:06:46,056 组装成实用枪支 a useful gun in 30 seconds in the dark, 138 00:06:46,106 --> 00:06:47,865 不过我从未试过。 but I’ve never tried it. 139 00:06:47,915 --> 00:06:51,497 麦克斯韦曾尝试绘画 At one time, Maxwell turned his hand to painting, 140 00:06:51,547 --> 00:06:53,794 想靠为上流社会画肖像谋生 trying but failing to earn a crust 141 00:06:53,844 --> 00:06:56,824 但未能成功。 as a society portrait artist. 142 00:06:56,874 --> 00:06:58,176 这幅肖像很有意思。 That’s an interesting portrait. 143 00:06:58,226 --> 00:07:01,153 - 这是凯瑟琳·雷恩 - Yeah, this is Kathleen Raine, and she was 144 00:07:01,203 --> 00:07:03,977 对麦克斯韦影响深远。 a big influence on Maxwell’s life. 145 00:07:04,027 --> 00:07:06,145 她深爱着他 She fell in love with him really 146 00:07:06,195 --> 00:07:08,424 终生未变。 and was in love with him all her life. 147 00:07:08,474 --> 00:07:09,316 - 他们是情人吗？ - Were they lovers? 148 00:07:09,366 --> 00:07:12,200 - 不是，因为他其实是同性恋 - No because he was actually gay, 149 00:07:12,250 --> 00:07:14,221 这段感情从未得到回应。 so it was never reciprocated. 150 00:07:14,271 --> 00:07:16,040 尽管他结过婚。 Although he did marry. 151 00:07:16,090 --> 00:07:17,695 娶了另一位朋友。 He married another friend. 152 00:07:17,745 --> 00:07:18,931 - 真是个复杂的人 - He’s a complex man, isn’t he? 153 00:07:18,981 --> 00:07:21,736 - 非常复杂 - Yes, he’s a very complex man, yes. 154 00:07:21,786 --> 00:07:23,983 玛格丽特，画中人物是谁 Now Margaret, who is that character there, 155 00:07:24,033 --> 00:07:25,685 那个少女吗？ that young girl, is it? 156 00:07:25,735 --> 00:07:28,046 - 我们也不清楚 - We don’t actually know, and it’s not a young girl, 157 00:07:28,096 --> 00:07:29,326 是个少年 it’s a young boy. 158 00:07:29,376 --> 00:07:30,159 这样啊 Right. 159 00:07:30,209 --> 00:07:30,992 对 Yes. 160 00:07:31,042 --> 00:07:31,825 是缪斯形象吗？ Is that a muse figure? 161 00:07:31,875 --> 00:07:34,153 - 无从得知 - We just don’t know. 162 00:07:34,203 --> 00:07:36,797 永远成谜了 It’s just one of those mysteries. 163 00:07:36,847 --> 00:07:39,462 - 你觉得他是怎样的人？ - What sort of man do you think he was? 164 00:07:39,512 --> 00:07:40,429 - 充满困扰 - Troubled. 165 00:07:41,562 --> 00:07:44,448 无法安定下来 He just couldn’t settle at things, 166 00:07:44,498 --> 00:07:46,567 热爱旅行 he liked to travel. 167 00:07:46,617 --> 00:07:49,579 村里人说他是 The people in the village here said he was, you know, 168 00:07:49,629 --> 00:07:52,044 那种孤僻的人 a very sort of standoffish kind of man, 169 00:07:52,094 --> 00:07:53,614 不会在酒馆与人闲聊 he wouldn’t sort of chat to you in the pub 170 00:07:53,664 --> 00:07:54,791 之类 or anything like that. 171 00:07:54,841 --> 00:07:56,097 所以选择岛居？ That’s why he lived on an island? 172 00:07:56,147 --> 00:07:56,930 是的 Yes. 173 00:07:56,980 --> 00:07:58,140 - 都说没有人是孤岛 - They say no man is an island, but I gather 174 00:07:58,190 --> 00:08:00,166 但麦克斯韦确实是——他拥有整座岛 Maxwell was because he had one of his own. 175 00:08:00,216 --> 00:08:01,380 - 他有专属岛屿 - He had one of his own. 176 00:08:07,345 --> 00:08:10,254 - 离开未能让麦克斯韦 - Leaving Eilean Ban, where it seems that Maxwell 177 00:08:10,304 --> 00:08:13,665 获得幸福的白岛 had struggled to find happiness, I cross the Kyle 178 00:08:13,715 --> 00:08:17,346 我渡过海峡前往史前时代起 to the island of Skye, which has attracted waves of people 179 00:08:17,396 --> 00:08:19,396 就吸引人潮的斯凯岛 since prehistoric times. 180 00:08:22,271 --> 00:08:24,834 斯凯岛的人类定居史 The story of human settlement on Skye 181 00:08:24,884 --> 00:08:27,468 可追溯数千年 goes back thousands of years. 182 00:08:27,518 --> 00:08:30,496 盖尔人祖先在此定居 The ancestors of the Gaels settled here. 183 00:08:30,546 --> 00:08:33,208 维京人曾短暂停留 The Vikings stayed for a while and intermarried 184 00:08:33,258 --> 00:08:34,591 与当地人通婚 with the locals. 185 00:08:35,456 --> 00:08:38,389 我身后这座圆顶山 Now that rounded mountain you can see over my shoulder 186 00:08:38,439 --> 00:08:41,602 凝聚了岛屿的维京与盖尔 brings together both the Viking and the Gaelic heritage 187 00:08:41,652 --> 00:08:43,085 双重遗产 of the islands. 188 00:08:43,135 --> 00:08:46,310 山顶有巨型石堆 There’s an enormous pile of stones, a cairn 189 00:08:46,360 --> 00:08:48,488 相传 up in the summit, and it’s said 190 00:08:48,538 --> 00:08:51,871 埋葬着一位维京公主 that a Viking Princess was buried there. 191 00:08:53,363 --> 00:08:57,067 有人说这位维京人 Some say that this Viking was the toll collecting 192 00:08:57,117 --> 00:09:01,304 正是收过路费的骚西玛丽 Saucy Mary herself, who in death wanted to be close 193 00:09:01,354 --> 00:09:05,549 死后仍想贴近挪威故土吹来的风 to the winds blowing from her Norwegian homeland. 194 00:09:05,599 --> 00:09:08,196 此后这座山被称为 Ever since, the mountain has been known as 195 00:09:08,246 --> 00:09:11,913 "老妇山" Bein Na Caillich, the hill of the old woman. 196 00:09:13,368 --> 00:09:16,892 至少我在18世纪末 At least that’s what I’ve read in the journals and accounts 197 00:09:16,942 --> 00:09:19,460 首批岛访者的 of some of the early visitors to the island 198 00:09:19,510 --> 00:09:21,615 游记中读到 who began turning up here towards the end 199 00:09:21,665 --> 00:09:23,434 如此记载 of the 18th century. 200 00:09:23,484 --> 00:09:27,181 但此前高地与岛屿之外 But before that time, very few people outside the Highlands 201 00:09:27,231 --> 00:09:30,564 鲜有人知斯凯岛 and islands knew much about Skye at all. 202 00:09:32,865 --> 00:09:36,075 尊敬的莎拉·穆雷夫人 The Right Honorable Mrs. Sarah Murray was one of 203 00:09:36,125 --> 00:09:39,927 是最早探索该岛的外来者 the very first outsiders to explore the island. 204 00:09:39,977 --> 00:09:42,414 1799至1802年间 Traveling from London, she made several trips 205 00:09:42,464 --> 00:09:45,631 她从伦敦多次造访赫布里底 to the Hebrides between 1799 and 1802. 206 00:09:47,809 --> 00:09:51,269 莎拉·穆雷是位非凡女性 Sarah Murray was an extraordinary woman. 207 00:09:51,319 --> 00:09:55,393 这位18世纪切尔西淑女 She was an 18th century lady from Chelsea who loved Scotland 208 00:09:55,443 --> 00:10:00,040 深爱苏格兰 with a passion, and nothing but the bad roads, bad food, 209 00:10:00,090 --> 00:10:04,003 糟糕的路况饮食、蚊虫或恶劣天气 midges, or indifferent weather would dampen her enthusiasm 210 00:10:04,053 --> 00:10:06,000 都无损她对这片土地 for the landscape and the people 211 00:10:06,050 --> 00:10:08,298 及人民的热情 who made a great impression on her. 212 00:10:08,348 --> 00:10:11,632 她形容当地人虽贫穷 She described them as honest and brave 213 00:10:11,682 --> 00:10:13,515 却诚实勇敢 despite their poverty. 214 00:10:16,820 --> 00:10:19,719 但莎拉·穆雷意识到 But Sarah Murray realized that she was witnessing 215 00:10:19,769 --> 00:10:21,754 自己正见证时代的终结 the end of an era. 216 00:10:21,804 --> 00:10:25,679 她到来时正值剧变 She came here at a time of great upheaval and change, 217 00:10:25,729 --> 00:10:28,305 斯凯岛的穷苦佃农 when poor tenants on Skye were forced to leave 218 00:10:28,355 --> 00:10:30,022 被迫离开热爱的土地 the land they loved. 219 00:10:31,240 --> 00:10:35,231 18世纪时淑女们通常 In the 18th century it wasn’t usual for genteel ladies 220 00:10:35,281 --> 00:10:37,761 不会对重大事件发表见解 to have opinions about things that mattered, 221 00:10:37,811 --> 00:10:40,608 但莎拉·穆雷是个例外 but Sarah Murray was an exceptional person. 222 00:10:40,658 --> 00:10:43,946 她亲眼目睹 She had witnessed for herself the melancholy departure 223 00:10:43,996 --> 00:10:46,630 众多移民的凄凉离去 of many emigrants, as she described it, 224 00:10:46,680 --> 00:10:48,998 并迅速归咎责任 and was quick to apportion blame. 225 00:10:49,048 --> 00:10:51,530 "贪婪的地主压榨" "Greedy landlords screwing," and that’s her word, 226 00:10:51,580 --> 00:10:55,894 这是她的原话 not mine, "screwing their tenants for every last penny." 227 00:10:59,651 --> 00:11:02,157 "不出几年" "In a very few years," she wrote, 228 00:11:02,207 --> 00:11:05,156 她写道 "the Hebrides will be deserted and the honest, 229 00:11:05,206 --> 00:11:08,977 "赫布里底将成荒芜之地 "brave race of west Highlanders and their language 230 00:11:09,027 --> 00:11:11,194 "正直勇敢的高地人及其语言 "will be totally extinct." 231 00:11:17,905 --> 00:11:20,949 莎拉·穆雷的预言 Sarah Murray made that prediction long before 232 00:11:20,999 --> 00:11:23,724 远早于民间记忆中的 the worst of the evictions known in folk memory 233 00:11:23,774 --> 00:11:27,941 "高地清洗"时期 as The Clearances emptied the island of whole communities. 234 00:11:29,444 --> 00:11:33,158 70年后另一位女性 70 years later, another woman also wrote passionately 235 00:11:33,208 --> 00:11:35,965 也激烈控诉暴行 about the cruel treatment of the people. 236 00:11:36,015 --> 00:11:39,829 与莎拉不同 Unlike Sarah Murray, she was a native of Skye. 237 00:11:39,879 --> 00:11:43,930 她是斯凯岛本地人 Her name was Mary MacPherson, or Mary Vore. 238 00:11:43,980 --> 00:11:47,775 歌手菲奥娜·麦肯齐 Singer, songwriter Fiona MacKenzie has a strong sense 239 00:11:47,825 --> 00:11:51,790 与这位用歌声 of connection to the woman who used song to campaign 240 00:11:51,840 --> 00:11:55,340 为高地土地联盟抗争的女性 with the Highland Land League for justice. 241 00:11:56,816 --> 00:12:00,932 - 她受族人 - She was inspired by her people, by her language, 242 00:12:00,982 --> 00:12:02,635 语言与乡野启迪 by the countryside. 243 00:12:02,685 --> 00:12:06,099 她50多岁才开始创作 She had a big struggle, she didn’t start writing songs 244 00:12:06,149 --> 00:12:09,214 诗歌 or or poetry as we call it, 245 00:12:09,264 --> 00:12:12,334 当时她因被诬告偷围巾 until she was in her 50’s, when she was living 246 00:12:12,384 --> 00:12:14,991 囚禁在因弗内斯 in Inverness and she was falsely accused 247 00:12:15,041 --> 00:12:17,248 收费所监狱 of stealing a scarf and was then imprisoned 248 00:12:17,298 --> 00:12:19,026 这激发她开始创作 in the Toll Booth in Inverness. 249 00:12:19,076 --> 00:12:21,865 因法庭上无法用盖尔语 And that was what inspired her to start writing 250 00:12:21,915 --> 00:12:24,829 为自己辩护 because of the injustice of not being able to make herself 251 00:12:24,879 --> 00:12:26,284 的屈辱 understood in the courts. 252 00:12:26,334 --> 00:12:28,574 她只会盖尔语 She only spoke Gaelic, she had no English, 253 00:12:28,624 --> 00:12:30,929 而庭审全程用英语 and all the proceedings in the court were in English. 254 00:12:30,979 --> 00:12:32,723 她完全不明白状况 So she didn’t know what was happening. 255 00:12:32,773 --> 00:12:34,101 - 这成为她人生的 - And that was her transforming moment in her 256 00:12:34,151 --> 00:12:36,560 转折点 life in a sense, it turned her from an ordinary-- 257 00:12:36,610 --> 00:12:37,393 - 正是 - Absolutely, hmm. 258 00:12:37,443 --> 00:12:39,072 - 从普通女性 - Woman to somebody who was, I suppose 259 00:12:39,122 --> 00:12:40,559 转变为政治活动家？ you would say politicized now? 260 00:12:40,609 --> 00:12:42,403 - 完全正确 - Absolutely, absolutely. 261 00:12:42,453 --> 00:12:44,802 从此她肩负起为平民 From then on she took up the mantel of somebody 262 00:12:44,852 --> 00:12:47,028 发声的使命 who could speak for the ordinary man. 263 00:12:47,078 --> 00:12:50,095 她深感不公 She felt a deep injustice that people around her 264 00:12:50,145 --> 00:12:51,751 族人世代耕作的土地 weren’t allowed to work their own land 265 00:12:51,801 --> 00:12:55,586 竟不得自主 that they’d been working for generations. 266 00:12:55,636 --> 00:12:58,806 她发现能用歌声 She discovered this ability to be able to put over cases 267 00:12:58,856 --> 00:13:00,927 为民请命 for people using her songs. 268 00:13:00,977 --> 00:13:04,098 因而被土地联盟成员 And so she was adopted by all the Land Leaguers 269 00:13:04,148 --> 00:13:07,401 在选举中拥戴 in the elections, and she was, she would get up 270 00:13:07,451 --> 00:13:09,976 她常当众歌唱 and she would sing in front of audiences 271 00:13:10,026 --> 00:13:13,628 鼓舞人们支持土地联盟 and encourage people to support the Land Leaguers 272 00:13:13,678 --> 00:13:16,610 激励民众捍卫 and incite people to stand up for themselves 273 00:13:16,660 --> 00:13:21,030 自身权益与语言文化 and stand up for their language and country. 274 00:13:21,080 --> 00:13:25,109 - 经年抗争后 - After years of struggle, the people of Skye, buoyed up 275 00:13:25,159 --> 00:13:28,212 受玛丽·沃尔歌声鼓舞的斯凯岛民 by the songs of Mary Vore, won the right 276 00:13:28,262 --> 00:13:31,429 终获在祖先土地上 to make a decent living off the land of their ancestors 277 00:13:31,479 --> 00:13:33,756 安居乐业的权利 without the constant fear of eviction 278 00:13:33,806 --> 00:13:35,200 不再恐惧驱逐 hanging over their heads. 279 00:13:40,418 --> 00:13:43,841 我旅程的下一站是拉赛岛 The next stop on my grand tour is Raasay, 280 00:13:43,891 --> 00:13:47,098 这座狭长岛屿 a long, narrow island stretching 40 miles 281 00:13:47,148 --> 00:13:49,165 南北绵延40英里 from north to south. 282 00:13:49,215 --> 00:13:54,002 传说中被称为"巨人岛" In legend, it’s known as he island of the big men. 283 00:13:54,052 --> 00:13:57,145 本身身材高大的约翰·威利·吉利斯 John Willie Gillies, a pretty tall man himself, 284 00:13:57,195 --> 00:14:01,281 是位在此劳作终生的佃农 is a crofter who’s lived here all his working life. 285 00:14:01,331 --> 00:14:04,362 - 拉赛岛许多当地人 - In Raasay itself a lot of the local people, 286 00:14:04,412 --> 00:14:06,394 都在佃农家庭长大 they were grown up on croft, so the previous 287 00:14:06,444 --> 00:14:07,592 祖辈都是佃农 generation were brought up on crofts, 288 00:14:07,642 --> 00:14:10,193 追溯起来 and that’s what they did, so if you go back in time, 289 00:14:10,243 --> 00:14:13,238 人人都与佃农制有关联 everybody comes from crofting one way or another. 290 00:14:13,288 --> 00:14:15,364 我们正在集羊剪毛 We’re gathering the sheep just now, we’re shearing the hogs, 291 00:14:15,414 --> 00:14:17,622 这些是去年首批 that’s the ones that were ewe lambs who were born, 292 00:14:17,672 --> 00:14:19,125 出生的母羊羔 our first stock from last year. 293 00:14:19,175 --> 00:14:21,092 羊毛如何处理？ Uh-huh, and what happens to the fleeces? 294 00:14:21,142 --> 00:14:22,826 - 打包送往 - The fleeces go in a bag and they go away 295 00:14:22,876 --> 00:14:23,981 羊毛营销委员会 to the wool marketing board, 296 00:14:24,031 --> 00:14:25,536 收益微薄 and we get very little for them. 297 00:14:25,586 --> 00:14:27,309 - 我正想问 - Right, I was gonna say-- 298 00:14:27,359 --> 00:14:28,237 比去年还差 It's worse than last year, I think 299 00:14:28,287 --> 00:14:29,608 只有去年一半 half of what we got last year. 300 00:14:29,658 --> 00:14:31,591 - 每公斤羊毛多少钱？ - How much are you getting a fleece? 301 00:14:31,641 --> 00:14:34,686 - 大概一英镑 - Oh, it’s, I don’t know, we’ll be getting one pound, 302 00:14:34,736 --> 00:14:36,301 每公斤左右 something, a kilo, I think it is. 303 00:14:36,351 --> 00:14:39,137 一公斤羊毛的价格 A kilo in weight of wool. 304 00:14:39,187 --> 00:14:40,610 这些年来 Over the years, have you seen 305 00:14:40,660 --> 00:14:42,656 佃农制变化大吗？ many changes in crofting? 306 00:14:42,706 --> 00:14:44,667 实际耕作的佃农数量？ The number of crofts that are actually being worked? 307 00:14:44,717 --> 00:14:47,189 - 减少了 - It’s less, there’s less people working crofts now, 308 00:14:47,239 --> 00:14:49,656 这很艰难 and it’s difficult, you know, 309 00:14:50,914 --> 00:14:52,898 人们期望值更高了 people’s expectations are higher. 310 00:14:52,948 --> 00:14:56,267 所以越来越少人从事 And this is why people just don’t do it anymore. 311 00:14:56,317 --> 00:14:58,960 有更轻松的赚钱方式 There’s easier ways of making money and there’s ways 312 00:14:59,010 --> 00:15:00,869 也能赚更多钱 of making lots more money, too. 313 00:15:00,919 --> 00:15:01,845 回溯历史 So if you go back into history, 314 00:15:01,895 --> 00:15:06,258 19世纪佃农们 there was a great struggle back in the 19th century 315 00:15:06,308 --> 00:15:10,093 曾为保留土地权利激烈抗争 for crofters to retain the right to stay on the land. 316 00:15:10,143 --> 00:15:11,143 确实如此 That’s right, yeah, yeah. 317 00:15:11,193 --> 00:15:13,561 如今人们还这么坚持吗？ And do people still feel that strongly? 318 00:15:13,611 --> 00:15:15,594 - 是的 - Yes, I mean, people still feel that as well, 319 00:15:15,644 --> 00:15:18,556 这正是当初 but that’s what it was designed for 320 00:15:18,606 --> 00:15:20,693 佃农制的初衷 when people got crofts. 321 00:15:20,743 --> 00:15:23,354 人们需要 That’s what they wanted it for was a security 322 00:15:23,404 --> 00:15:24,663 安全保障和居所 and a place to live. 323 00:15:24,713 --> 00:15:26,903 你有责任 And you have a responsibility, it doesn’t matter 324 00:15:26,953 --> 00:15:29,558 就像保养汽车 what you’ve got, it’s like looking after your car 325 00:15:29,608 --> 00:15:30,914 或其他东西 or whatever, you know? 326 00:15:30,964 --> 00:15:35,131 不维护就会荒废 If you don’t look after it, it falls to pieces, you know. 327 00:15:36,128 --> 00:15:38,695 维持佃农生活 Maintaining the health of crofting life 328 00:15:38,745 --> 00:15:42,735 殊为不易 has been a struggle, especially on the islands. 329 00:15:42,785 --> 00:15:45,480 二战前 Up until the Second World War, there were several 330 00:15:45,530 --> 00:15:49,410 拉赛岛北端还有 crofting communities at the north end of Raasay. 331 00:15:49,460 --> 00:15:52,615 记者罗杰·哈钦森告诉我 Journalist Roger Hutchinson tells me how people 332 00:15:52,665 --> 00:15:56,067 因岛上唯一道路 began to leave, because the only road on the island 333 00:15:56,117 --> 00:15:58,777 距家两英里处中断 stopped two miles short of their homes, 334 00:15:58,827 --> 00:16:01,969 与20世纪文明隔绝 cutting them off from the 20th century. 335 00:16:02,019 --> 00:16:05,280 - 110-120年前 - 110, 120 years ago, the motorcar arrived 336 00:16:05,330 --> 00:16:09,785 汽车进入苏格兰高地 in the Highlands of Scotland, and Inverness County Council 337 00:16:09,835 --> 00:16:14,696 因弗内斯郡议会 had to start providing roads for them to drive along. 338 00:16:14,746 --> 00:16:18,673 终于轮到拉赛岛时 And when they eventually got 'round to here in Raasay, 339 00:16:18,723 --> 00:16:22,716 他们从南端 they built a road from the south end of the island 340 00:16:22,766 --> 00:16:25,429 修建道路 up to about a mile south of here 341 00:16:25,479 --> 00:16:27,385 至布罗切尔附近 at a place called Brochel. 342 00:16:27,435 --> 00:16:31,053 南端居民得以 So everybody in the south end of Raasay had access 343 00:16:31,103 --> 00:16:34,112 使用汽车 to new motorcars, which meant that a nurse or a doctor 344 00:16:34,162 --> 00:16:36,214 医疗资源得以进入 or something, somebody could appear. 345 00:16:36,264 --> 00:16:40,431 北端居民仍处中世纪 Everybody in the north end was left in the Middle Ages. 346 00:16:41,692 --> 00:16:44,050 多次恳请议会修建 Repeated pleas to the Council to build 347 00:16:44,100 --> 00:16:47,108 连接孤立社区的道路 the vital road link to these isolated communities 348 00:16:47,158 --> 00:16:48,788 均告失败 were in vain. 349 00:16:48,838 --> 00:16:52,702 40年前佃农卡卢姆·麦克劳德 But then 40 years ago, crofter Calum MacLeod 350 00:16:52,752 --> 00:16:56,652 决定自力更生 decided to take things into his own hands. 351 00:16:56,702 --> 00:17:00,175 他的事迹已成传奇 His story has become the stuff of legend. 352 00:17:00,225 --> 00:17:03,301 凭借手推车、鹤嘴锄和铁锹 Working with a barrow, a pickax, and a shovel, 353 00:17:03,351 --> 00:17:07,268 他耗时近20年 for nearly 20 years, he built the road himself. 354 00:17:08,338 --> 00:17:11,027 - 筑路伊始 - When he began to build the road, he’d have been 355 00:17:11,077 --> 00:17:12,660 他已56岁 about 56 years old. 356 00:17:13,976 --> 00:17:17,688 他买了本 He bought a book on the building and maintenance 357 00:17:17,738 --> 00:17:20,957 公路建设维护手册 of motor roads, and Calum sort of used that as a reference 358 00:17:21,007 --> 00:17:24,089 自学成为道路工程师 work and taught himself how to become a roads engineer. 359 00:17:26,979 --> 00:17:29,820 惊人的是 Amazingly, the herculean task of road building 360 00:17:29,870 --> 00:17:33,512 筑路工程全在 was undertaken in Calum’s spare time. 361 00:17:33,562 --> 00:17:37,262 他不仅是全职佃农 As well as being a full time crofter, he also worked 362 00:17:37,312 --> 00:17:41,001 还兼任灯塔助理 as an assistant lighthouse keeper and a postman. 363 00:17:41,051 --> 00:17:42,897 - 为何如此坚持？ - What made him do it? 364 00:17:42,947 --> 00:17:47,114 - 决心 - Determination, the insistence upon proving a point 365 00:17:48,140 --> 00:17:52,663 向数十年推诿的议会 to the Council after decades of denial on their part 366 00:17:52,713 --> 00:17:55,822 证明其可行性 that such a thing was possible. 367 00:17:55,872 --> 00:17:59,594 以及对社区与土地的深爱 And a love of community and place, I think, 368 00:17:59,644 --> 00:18:02,894 这是典型的盖尔情怀 which is an extremely Gaelic sentiment. 369 00:18:05,580 --> 00:18:09,475 卡卢姆的执着终得回报 Calum’s dogged determination eventually paid off. 370 00:18:09,525 --> 00:18:13,427 他的道路连通了 His road now linked the community of Arnish where he lived 371 00:18:13,477 --> 00:18:17,628 居住地阿尼什与岛其他区域 to the rest of the island, but it came at a cost. 372 00:18:17,678 --> 00:18:20,593 巨大讽刺是 The great irony of course is that by the time 373 00:18:20,643 --> 00:18:23,577 道路竣工时 he’d finished, there were just two people living up there 374 00:18:23,627 --> 00:18:25,006 北端只剩 at the north end, at the other end, 375 00:18:25,056 --> 00:18:26,832 他和妻子莱克茜 himself and his wife, Lexie. 376 00:18:26,882 --> 00:18:27,665 这不仅讽刺 Well that’s not just ironic, 377 00:18:27,715 --> 00:18:29,706 更是悲剧 it’s tragic really, isn’t it? 378 00:18:29,756 --> 00:18:33,786 堪称悲壮的胜利 It makes it a kind of magnificent Pyrrhic victory. 379 00:18:33,836 --> 00:18:37,676 他做到了 He’d done it, you know and it’s still here. 380 00:18:37,726 --> 00:18:40,311 但为时已晚 But of course it was too late. 381 00:18:40,361 --> 00:18:41,931 人已散去 The people are gone. 382 00:18:46,545 --> 00:18:49,511 徒步近两英里后 After our hike of nearly two miles, we come 383 00:18:49,561 --> 00:18:52,585 我们抵达卡卢姆路的尽头 to the end of Calum’s road and the house he lived in 384 00:18:52,635 --> 00:18:54,998 他与妻女的住所 with his wife and daughter. 385 00:18:55,048 --> 00:18:58,443 也是他离世之地 It’s also the spot where Calum died. 386 00:18:58,493 --> 00:19:01,309 妻子发现他 His wife found him collapsed in his wheelbarrow 387 00:19:01,359 --> 00:19:03,547 心脏病发作倒在手推车里 after a heart attack. 388 00:19:03,597 --> 00:19:05,264 终年76岁 He was 76 years old. 389 00:19:06,690 --> 00:19:10,857 - 残酷的讽刺在于 - It was a terrible irony because previously whenever people 390 00:19:11,691 --> 00:19:14,441 从前北端居民去世 from this end of the island died, 391 00:19:16,404 --> 00:19:20,033 遗体和棺木 their remains and their coffin were taken by boat 392 00:19:20,083 --> 00:19:24,039 需从阿尼什湾 from Arnish Bay over there, down the coast to the south end 393 00:19:24,089 --> 00:19:27,959 经海路运至南端墓地安葬 of Raasay to be buried in the cemetery. 394 00:19:28,009 --> 00:19:29,453 如今灵车能直接 Well, of course they could get the hearse 395 00:19:29,503 --> 00:19:32,730 开到卡卢姆家门口接他 right up to Calum’s door to collect him. 396 00:19:32,780 --> 00:19:35,016 他成为最后一位 So he was the last man out of northern Raasay 397 00:19:35,066 --> 00:19:37,959 经亲手所筑之路离开北拉赛的人 down the road that he built with his own bare hands. 398 00:19:38,009 --> 00:19:41,464 - 这故事充满象征意味 - The whole story is fantastically symbolic, is it not? 399 00:19:41,514 --> 00:19:42,882 - 非凡绝伦 - Extraordinary. 400 00:19:48,768 --> 00:19:51,507 离开拉赛岛时 Leaving Raasay, I reflect upon all the struggles 401 00:19:51,557 --> 00:19:54,471 我思索岛民社群 faced by island communities. 402 00:19:54,521 --> 00:19:57,934 正如罗杰所言 As Roger told me, history often portrays the people 403 00:19:57,984 --> 00:20:02,507 历史常将他们描绘成 as victims living on the fringes of the modern world. 404 00:20:02,557 --> 00:20:05,453 但卡卢姆绝非弱者 But Calum MacLeod was nobody’s victim. 405 00:20:05,503 --> 00:20:08,279 他以体力和意志 Through physical effort and willpower, he tried 406 00:20:08,329 --> 00:20:10,818 为社区争取未来 to give his community a future, 407 00:20:10,868 --> 00:20:14,535 若需道路便亲手建造 and if that took a road, then he’d build it. 408 00:20:18,062 --> 00:20:21,035 岛民向来自力更生 Island people have always been self-reliant, 409 00:20:21,085 --> 00:20:22,824 他们不筑路时 and when they weren’t building roads, 410 00:20:22,874 --> 00:20:26,735 便忙于创造其他地标 they were busy creating landmarks of other kinds. 411 00:20:26,785 --> 00:20:31,243 石墙——通常称为干石墙 Stone walls, or drystane dykes as they’re usually called, 412 00:20:31,293 --> 00:20:34,450 在苏格兰随处可见 are a common sight across Scotland. 413 00:20:34,500 --> 00:20:37,149 在斯凯岛 On Skye, they are a silent testament 414 00:20:37,199 --> 00:20:39,706 它们是筑墙佃农的 to the crofters who built them. 415 00:20:39,756 --> 00:20:43,471 可悲的是如今 Sadly, today, many are in a poor state of repair 416 00:20:43,521 --> 00:20:45,058 许多已年久失修 because there are few people around 417 00:20:45,108 --> 00:20:48,379 掌握修复技艺者寥寥 with the necessary skills to rebuild them. 418 00:20:48,429 --> 00:20:52,065 肖娜·麦克劳德是例外 Shona MacLeod is an exception, one of the few women 419 00:20:52,115 --> 00:20:55,441 苏格兰少数女性石匠 in Scotland qualified for the job. 420 00:20:55,491 --> 00:20:57,830 在斯凯岛南端 Joining her at the south end of Skye, 421 00:20:57,880 --> 00:21:00,060 我来观摩她 I’ve come to watch her at work 422 00:21:00,110 --> 00:21:02,962 重建传统黑屋 rebuilding a traditional blackhouse. 423 00:21:03,012 --> 00:21:06,110 肖娜说这是理想工作 Shona says this is her dream job, 424 00:21:06,160 --> 00:21:08,971 尽管蚊虫肆虐 despite the inevitable midges. 425 00:21:09,021 --> 00:21:12,933 旧时村民 Now in the old days I suppose when people 426 00:21:12,983 --> 00:21:16,287 自建房屋 were building their own homes in a village, 427 00:21:16,337 --> 00:21:20,504 会有专职石匠吗 would there be a particular dedicated stone mason, 428 00:21:21,700 --> 00:21:22,589 还是怎样运作的？ or how would it work? 429 00:21:22,639 --> 00:21:24,710 - 我想应该有 - Well I think there would have been, I mean, 430 00:21:24,760 --> 00:21:27,265 但许多佃农 I’m assuming there would have been, but a lot of crofters 431 00:21:27,315 --> 00:21:31,301 需筑特定长度石墙 had to do so many lengths of wall for the rent, 432 00:21:31,351 --> 00:21:33,930 抵租以保耕地 to stay on their croft when they were doing 433 00:21:33,980 --> 00:21:36,890 "清洗"时期食物匮乏 The Clearances 'cause there was lack of food. 434 00:21:36,940 --> 00:21:40,690 于是他们 So what they did was instead of having to pay 435 00:21:42,794 --> 00:21:45,977 以筑墙代缴 a percentage of what they’d grown, they had to build 436 00:21:46,027 --> 00:21:46,925 粮食分成 a certain length of wall. 437 00:21:46,975 --> 00:21:49,550 萨瑟兰地区便是如此 I know they did that in Sutherland. 438 00:21:49,600 --> 00:21:52,698 他们用绷带缠手 They used to have to bind their fingers in bandages 439 00:21:52,748 --> 00:21:55,101 因当时无手套 'cause they didn’t have any gloves then. 440 00:21:55,151 --> 00:21:56,784 如今乡间纵横的 And what was the purpose of a lot of the walls 441 00:21:56,834 --> 00:21:59,807 石墙主要作用是？ that we see today crossing the countryside, do you know? 442 00:21:59,857 --> 00:22:01,376 基本为圈养牲畜 Basically just to keep the stock in, 443 00:22:01,426 --> 00:22:04,230 实质是给佃农 but it's purely to give them something to, well, 444 00:22:04,280 --> 00:22:06,228 找点事做 to give them something to do. 445 00:22:06,278 --> 00:22:07,748 让穷人忙于劳作 I suppose if you’re keeping the poor people 446 00:22:07,798 --> 00:22:09,709 减少反抗可能？ occupied, there’s less chance of rebellion? 447 00:22:09,759 --> 00:22:10,591 对 而且整天 Yes, and they’ll be knackered 448 00:22:10,641 --> 00:22:12,743 筑墙会精疲力尽 after doing this all day. 449 00:22:12,793 --> 00:22:15,285 修复石墙常需 To rebuild a wall, Shona often has to 450 00:22:15,335 --> 00:22:17,099 先拆除旧墙 demolish it first. 451 00:22:17,149 --> 00:22:21,310 这能意外窥见历史 This can provide an unusual glimpse into the past. 452 00:22:21,360 --> 00:22:24,956 - 我总在墙中发现空瓶 - I always used to find these empty bottles in the wall. 453 00:22:25,006 --> 00:22:25,831 什么瓶 威士忌？ What sort of bottles, whisky bottles? 454 00:22:25,881 --> 00:22:26,914 - 威士忌瓶 - Whisky bottles, uh-huh. 455 00:22:26,964 --> 00:22:29,017 但只在特定 But it would only be in a certain, you know, 456 00:22:29,067 --> 00:22:31,470 每隔十米 you’d find a bottle and then you’d be taking 457 00:22:31,520 --> 00:22:32,331 就能发现 about 10 meters down, and there would be 458 00:22:32,381 --> 00:22:33,705 一堆酒瓶 another load of them. 459 00:22:33,755 --> 00:22:35,702 他们周五完工后 But what they did is they had their Friday drink 460 00:22:35,752 --> 00:22:37,392 饮酒并将瓶 after they’d been doing their walling. 461 00:22:37,442 --> 00:22:40,314 嵌进墙中 They’d pop the bottle in the wall. 462 00:22:40,364 --> 00:22:41,748 你延续这传统吗？ Is that a tradition you maintain? 463 00:22:41,798 --> 00:22:42,593 没有 No. 464 00:22:42,643 --> 00:22:44,476 - 真遗憾 - Oh, that’s a shame. 465 00:22:46,900 --> 00:22:50,777 留肖娜与中型巨石搏斗 Leaving Shona to wrestle with a medium size boulder, 466 00:22:50,827 --> 00:22:54,417 我前往构成斯凯岛 I head for the hills and the rocks that make up 467 00:22:54,467 --> 00:22:58,648 著名库林山脉的 Skye’s famous mountain range, the Cuillin, 468 00:22:58,698 --> 00:23:02,270 山峦赴约险峰 where I have an appointment with a dramatic peak called 469 00:23:02,320 --> 00:23:06,487 "刽子手峰" Am Basteir, which in Gaelic means The Executioner. 470 00:23:07,502 --> 00:23:08,997 令人胆寒 Scary stuff. 471 00:23:13,895 --> 00:23:16,840 不幸的是登山当日 Unfortunately, on the morning of the climb, 472 00:23:16,890 --> 00:23:18,977 天气骤变 the weather breaks. 473 00:23:19,027 --> 00:23:22,754 抵达巍峨悬崖底部 It’s a long and wearisome trek to get to the bottom 474 00:23:22,804 --> 00:23:25,187 需漫长跋涉 of the imposing cliffs. 475 00:23:25,237 --> 00:23:29,085 向导迈克·莱茨 To keep me from putting a foot wrong in a dangerous place 476 00:23:29,135 --> 00:23:31,974 防止我在险境失足 is climbing guide Mike Lates. 477 00:23:37,313 --> 00:23:38,901 人们来此攀登 I suppose people have been coming up here 478 00:23:38,951 --> 00:23:40,660 已有多年？ for a number of years? 479 00:23:40,710 --> 00:23:43,086 这是条成熟路线吧？ This is a pretty well- trodden route, this one? 480 00:23:43,136 --> 00:23:47,303 - 是的 - Yeah, yeah, these hills have been explored since the, 481 00:23:49,303 --> 00:23:52,114 1836年首次登顶 1836 was the first ascent of Sgurr nan Gillean 482 00:23:52,164 --> 00:23:53,904 雾中的斯格尔南吉连峰 up there up in the mist. 483 00:23:53,954 --> 00:23:58,122 但就库林山脉 But they were discovered quite late in Cuillin terms, 484 00:23:58,172 --> 00:24:00,134 和登山史而言 in mountaineering terms, both in terms of Britain, 485 00:24:00,184 --> 00:24:01,172 这发现较晚 there was rock-climbing going on 486 00:24:01,222 --> 00:24:03,259 当时湖区已有攀岩 in the Lake District already. 487 00:24:03,309 --> 00:24:05,416 世界范围内 And in terms of world mountaineering, there was a lot 488 00:24:05,466 --> 00:24:07,495 阿尔卑斯登山盛行 of alpinism going on already, Mont Blanc had been 489 00:24:07,545 --> 00:24:09,836 勃朗峰被征服 climbed a good 60 years before 490 00:24:09,886 --> 00:24:11,945 早于斯格尔南吉连峰 Sgurr nan Gillean was discovered. 491 00:24:11,995 --> 00:24:13,391 库林山脉因此 Were the Cuillins kind of 492 00:24:13,441 --> 00:24:14,891 被忽视了吗？ overlooked in that case? 493 00:24:14,941 --> 00:24:17,902 - 是的 这里比阿尔卑斯 - Yeah, they were just more difficult to access 494 00:24:17,952 --> 00:24:21,366 更难抵达 than the Alps themselves, really. 495 00:24:21,416 --> 00:24:22,941 登山者来此 Really, it was more difficult for climbers 496 00:24:22,991 --> 00:24:24,363 比去阿尔卑斯更难？ to come here than to the Alps? 497 00:24:24,413 --> 00:24:26,408 - 直到凯尔铁路建成 - Yeah, until the Kyle railway was built. 498 00:24:26,458 --> 00:24:28,576 铁路从因弗内斯 When that came through across from Inverness, 499 00:24:28,626 --> 00:24:30,476 贯通后局面改变 it suddenly opened it up. 500 00:24:30,526 --> 00:24:32,519 登山者发现 And what the climbers discovered, you know, they were 501 00:24:32,569 --> 00:24:34,911 他们已是优秀阿尔卑斯登山家 quite good alpinists already, was that they’d got 502 00:24:34,961 --> 00:24:38,100 家门口就有 their own mini Alps on their own backdoor step, 503 00:24:38,150 --> 00:24:41,167 他们喜爱的是 and what they really liked was the fact that they could 504 00:24:41,217 --> 00:24:43,785 体验阿尔卑斯式冒险 have an Alpine scale adventure and still get back 505 00:24:43,835 --> 00:24:46,770 当晚回到斯利加罕酒店 to the luxuries of the Sligachan Hotel in the evenings. 506 00:24:46,820 --> 00:24:48,294 - 这正是我期待的 - That’s what I’m looking forward to. 507 00:24:51,454 --> 00:24:55,055 维多利亚时代的绅士们 These Victorian gents rated their Cuillin adventures 508 00:24:55,105 --> 00:24:58,476 将库林探险 just as highly as their Alpine ones. 509 00:24:58,526 --> 00:25:02,348 尽管这里山峰 Although the mountains here are all under 1,000 meters, 510 00:25:02,398 --> 00:25:05,839 均不足千米 they can still challenge the most accomplished mountaineer, 511 00:25:05,889 --> 00:25:09,472 仍能挑战顶尖登山者 which is why Skye became a climbers' Mecca. 512 00:25:11,284 --> 00:25:14,754 维多利亚鼎盛时期 And it was in this Victorian heyday that the first descent 513 00:25:14,804 --> 00:25:18,011 首次开辟刽子手峰 of a route up Am Basteir was made. 514 00:25:18,061 --> 00:25:20,175 这是较易路线 It’s one of the easier climbs, but it still 515 00:25:20,225 --> 00:25:24,272 仍需敬畏 deserves respect, especially on a day like today. 516 00:25:24,322 --> 00:25:25,800 此处失足后果严重 Right, this is no place to have a slip. 517 00:25:25,850 --> 00:25:27,745 - 绝对危险 - Absolutely not, no, no. 518 00:25:27,795 --> 00:25:29,212 我们将看到 We’re about to get a view over into the back 519 00:25:29,262 --> 00:25:32,178 库林山脉背面 of the Cuillin, and you’ll see there’s a pretty similar drop 520 00:25:32,228 --> 00:25:33,660 另一侧同样陡峭 on the other side of us here. 521 00:25:33,710 --> 00:25:36,111 不得不说 这地方令人望而生畏 All very forbidding, I have to say. 522 00:25:36,161 --> 00:25:37,567 我的小命就交给你了 And my life is in your hands. 523 00:25:37,617 --> 00:25:41,200 好好享受吧 Enjoy. 524 00:25:43,369 --> 00:25:46,347 路线沿着狭窄山脊延伸 The route follows the line of the narrow ridge 525 00:25:46,397 --> 00:25:50,699 两侧都是陡峭悬崖 where dramatic cliffs fall steeply on either side. 526 00:25:50,749 --> 00:25:54,663 云雾散开时 前方景象更让人心惊 As the clouds lift, the view ahead is less than reassuring. 527 00:25:58,613 --> 00:26:02,176 路线的关键处叫"险恶阶" The crux of the route is called The Bad Step, 528 00:26:02,226 --> 00:26:05,139 山脊上五米宽的裂隙 a five meter cleft in the ridge which requires 529 00:26:05,189 --> 00:26:08,535 需精巧步法才能优雅通过 some delicate footwork to negotiate gracefully. 530 00:26:08,585 --> 00:26:11,168 好 我要下脚了 Right, my foot's gonna go down. 531 00:26:12,055 --> 00:26:15,128 哦 有个不错的抓手点 Oh, oh, that’s a nice big hold. 532 00:26:15,178 --> 00:26:18,646 但岩壁技巧非我所长 But finesse on rock is not my strong point. 533 00:26:18,696 --> 00:26:21,945 能全身而退就心满意足 I’m just happy to get down in one piece. 534 00:26:21,995 --> 00:26:26,162 哇呼 我成功啦 Woo, woo-hoo, I made it. 535 00:26:28,164 --> 00:26:32,075 过了"险恶阶" 山脊窄得吓人 After The Bad Step, the ridge becomes alarmingly narrow 536 00:26:32,125 --> 00:26:34,634 我战战兢兢挪步时 and it’s not easy keeping my balance 537 00:26:34,684 --> 00:26:37,482 很难保持平衡 as I gingerly wobble my way across. 538 00:26:37,532 --> 00:26:39,545 稳住 你能行的 Nice and steady, you can do it. 539 00:26:39,595 --> 00:26:41,973 哦不 我不确定 Oh no, no, I don’t know. 540 00:26:42,023 --> 00:26:45,676 为人类勇敢一跃吧 Stand up in like one bold jump for mankind. 541 00:26:45,726 --> 00:26:47,226 我试试 I'll try. 542 00:26:49,260 --> 00:26:51,203 就这样 太棒了 That’s it, this is great. 543 00:26:51,253 --> 00:26:52,200 哇呼！ Woo-hoo! 544 00:26:53,637 --> 00:26:57,329 经过三小时惊心动魄的攀登 At long last, after three hours of hair-raising, 545 00:26:57,379 --> 00:27:00,215 终于赶在午餐时间 heart-stopping climbing, I’m more than relieved 546 00:27:00,265 --> 00:27:02,746 抵达峰顶 如释重负 to reach the summit in time for lunch. 547 00:27:02,796 --> 00:27:04,387 哇 嘿 Whoa, hey. 548 00:27:04,437 --> 00:27:05,247 到了吗？ Are we there yet? 549 00:27:05,297 --> 00:27:06,080 到了 Yeah. 550 00:27:06,130 --> 00:27:07,480 太美妙的一天 We are, what an amazing day. 551 00:27:07,530 --> 00:27:08,400 恭喜 保罗 Congratulations, Paul. 552 00:27:08,450 --> 00:27:09,608 - 太感谢了 简直不可思议 - Well, thanks for that, that’s absolutely terrific. 553 00:27:09,658 --> 00:27:11,325 - 这就是刽子手峰 - That's Am Basteir. 554 00:27:12,201 --> 00:27:13,567 哇！ - 刽子手之巅 Wow! - On top of The Executioner. 555 00:27:14,450 --> 00:27:15,853 - 绝妙的位置 - A fantastic place to be. 556 00:27:18,403 --> 00:27:20,835 我嚼着苏格兰蛋时 As I chomp through my scotch egg, 557 00:27:20,885 --> 00:27:23,701 迈克告诉我 Mike tells me that we are perched on the lip 558 00:27:23,751 --> 00:27:25,584 我们正坐在古火山口边缘 of an ancient volcano. 559 00:27:26,503 --> 00:27:28,634 - 我们位于岩浆房边缘 - We’re sat on the rim of the magma chamber here. 560 00:27:28,684 --> 00:27:31,334 传统圆形火山口的 The actual height of the crater 561 00:27:31,384 --> 00:27:34,646 实际高度 that you classically envisage with a circular volcano 562 00:27:34,696 --> 00:27:37,027 比我们所在处还要高三公里 would have been another three kilometers above our heads. 563 00:27:37,077 --> 00:27:39,194 令我震惊的是 What blows me away is that it’s all happened 564 00:27:39,244 --> 00:27:41,089 这一切形成于恐龙灭绝之后 since the dinosaurs died out. 565 00:27:41,139 --> 00:27:43,727 曾高达15000英尺 如今侵蚀至此 It went up to 15,000 feet and has got worn down to this. 566 00:27:43,777 --> 00:27:44,860 - 天啊 - Good grief. 567 00:27:47,126 --> 00:27:50,116 照此侵蚀速度 At that rate of erosion, there won’t be much left 568 00:27:50,166 --> 00:27:53,749 六千万年后库林山脉将所剩无几 of the Cuillin in another 60 million years. 569 00:27:54,959 --> 00:27:58,328 但仍有充足时间 But that still leaves plenty of time to appreciate 570 00:27:58,378 --> 00:28:00,878 欣赏这些非凡山峦 these extraordinary mountains. 571 00:28:01,999 --> 00:28:05,085 在这绝妙却略显险峻之地 This is a fabulous, if slightly precarious place for me 572 00:28:05,135 --> 00:28:09,302 我结束了斯凯岛之旅 to end my Grand Tour of Skye, with this stupendous view 573 00:28:10,238 --> 00:28:13,781 身后壮丽的库林山脉 of the Cuillin mountains behind me, and on the horizon, 574 00:28:13,831 --> 00:28:15,572 迷雾中若隐若现的 just appearing through the mist, 575 00:28:15,622 --> 00:28:18,163 还有更多待探索的岛屿 more islands for me to explore. 576 00:28:18,213 --> 00:28:19,680 太棒了 Fantastic.