1 00:00:04,040 --> 00:00:06,409 - 当我们想起苏格兰的岛屿时， - When we think of Scottish islands, 2 00:00:06,459 --> 00:00:09,499 大多数人会想到大西洋和赫布里底群岛， most of us think of the Atlantic and the Hebrides, 3 00:00:09,549 --> 00:00:13,716 或是奥克尼和设得兰的狂野北方群岛。 or the wild Northern Isles of Orkney and Shetland. 4 00:00:15,346 --> 00:00:17,554 但还有另一群迷人却常被忽视的岛屿， But there’s another group of fascinating 5 00:00:17,604 --> 00:00:21,143 它们离我们的家园更近， and often overlooked islands much closer to home, 6 00:00:21,193 --> 00:00:24,578 这些岛屿就坐落在爱丁堡的视线范围内， and these lie within sight of Edinburgh 7 00:00:24,628 --> 00:00:26,461 位于福斯湾中。 in the Firth of Forth. 8 00:00:29,441 --> 00:00:33,425 自人类历史之初，岛屿就吸引着人们， Islands have drawn people since the dawn of human history, 9 00:00:33,475 --> 00:00:36,183 在这个系列中，我将追随 and in this series I’m retracing the steps 10 00:00:36,233 --> 00:00:39,447 一些早期访客的足迹，他们曾沉醉于 of some early visitors who fell under the spell 11 00:00:39,497 --> 00:00:42,080 苏格兰那些充满魔力的岛屿。 of Scotland’s magical islands. 12 00:00:44,020 --> 00:00:47,248 在这次壮游中，我将探索福斯湾的岛屿 On this grand tour, I’m going to discover how the islands 13 00:00:47,298 --> 00:00:51,465 如何成为守护我们海岸的堡垒。 of the Forth became fortresses to defend our shores. 14 00:00:54,919 --> 00:00:58,419 以及无法逃脱的监狱。 Of prisons from which there was no escape. 15 00:01:16,239 --> 00:01:18,700 福斯湾丰富的历史与自然美景 The historical riches and natural beauty 16 00:01:18,750 --> 00:01:21,352 自旅游业早期就吸引着游客。 of the Firth of Forth have attracted visitors 17 00:01:21,402 --> 00:01:24,485 since the very early days of tourism. 18 00:01:27,130 --> 00:01:28,862 这本指南中有一首古老的韵文 There’s an old rhyme in this guide book 19 00:01:28,912 --> 00:01:31,663 揭示了这些游客的去向 which gives an indication of where these tourists went 20 00:01:31,713 --> 00:01:34,627 以及可看的景点，它写道 and what there was to see, and it says 21 00:01:34,677 --> 00:01:39,485 因奇加尔维、因奇米克里、因奇科尔姆、因奇基斯、克拉蒙德， Inchgarvie, Inchmickery, Inchcolm, Inchkeith, Cramond, 22 00:01:39,535 --> 00:01:43,216 菲德拉、兰姆、克雷格利斯，环绕巴斯岩 Fidra, Lamb, Craigleith, around the Bass Rock 23 00:01:43,266 --> 00:01:47,433 前往梅岛，再经过卡尔礁到达达尔盖蒂湾， to the Isle of May then past Car Craig to Dalgety Bay, 24 00:01:48,313 --> 00:01:52,480 这几乎描述了我今天的路线。 which pretty much describes the route I’m taking today. 25 00:01:54,553 --> 00:01:57,412 从西向东航行，我正跳岛游览 Sailing from west to east, I’m island hopping 26 00:01:57,462 --> 00:02:00,227 从因奇加尔维到巴斯岩， from Inchgarvie to the Bass Rock, 27 00:02:00,277 --> 00:02:02,930 探索一段令人眼花缭乱的历史，包括 discovering a bewildering history that includes 28 00:02:02,980 --> 00:02:06,813 战争、巫术、冥想与监禁。 war, witchcraft, meditation and incarceration. 29 00:02:10,290 --> 00:02:12,838 我的旅程从这里开始，在福斯桥的 My journey starts here in the shadow 30 00:02:12,888 --> 00:02:15,151 阴影之下。 of the Forth Bridge. 31 00:02:15,201 --> 00:02:18,725 南昆斯费里几十年来一直是传统 South Queensferry has for decades been the traditional 32 00:02:18,775 --> 00:02:22,051 的起点，一日游旅客从这里出发 starting point for day-trippers seeking to enjoy 33 00:02:22,101 --> 00:02:24,288 享受岛屿巡航并惊叹于 an island cruise and marvel 34 00:02:24,338 --> 00:02:28,851 世界上最标志性的建筑之一。 at one of the world’s most iconic structures. 35 00:02:28,901 --> 00:02:30,736 我对福斯桥百看不厌， I never tire of the Forth Bridge, 36 00:02:30,786 --> 00:02:33,437 而这一定是欣赏它 and this has to be the best way to appreciate 37 00:02:33,487 --> 00:02:35,315 宏伟规模的最佳方式。 its sheer scale. 38 00:02:35,365 --> 00:02:36,948 它确实巨大无比。 It’s truly immense. 39 00:02:39,351 --> 00:02:43,326 这座历史性的桥梁闻名遐迩。 This historic crossing is rightly famous. 40 00:02:43,376 --> 00:02:47,526 但鲜为人知的是支撑它的岛屿， But what is less well-known is the island which supports it, 41 00:02:47,576 --> 00:02:48,493 因奇加尔维。 Inchgarvie. 42 00:02:52,888 --> 00:02:55,715 当这座桥在1882年建造时， When the bridge was constructed in 1882, 43 00:02:55,765 --> 00:02:58,578 这座岩石小岛被用作 this rocky islet was used as the foundation 44 00:02:58,628 --> 00:03:01,045 其巨型桥墩的地基。 for one of its gigantic legs. 45 00:03:02,240 --> 00:03:05,378 就像一块垫脚石，让这座巨大建筑 Like a stepping stone as this huge structure 46 00:03:05,428 --> 00:03:07,428 飞跃福斯湾。 vaults across the Firth. 47 00:03:09,390 --> 00:03:12,335 但这座岛屿在福斯湾的历史中 But this island has played more than just a supporting role 48 00:03:12,385 --> 00:03:14,825 不仅仅是配角。 in the history of the Forth. 49 00:03:14,875 --> 00:03:17,685 由于这片水域的战略重要性， Because of the strategic importance of these waters, 50 00:03:17,735 --> 00:03:21,362 因奇加尔维自中世纪以来 Inchgarvie has had some form of fortification on it 51 00:03:21,412 --> 00:03:23,245 就设有某种防御工事。 since the Middle Ages. 52 00:03:24,746 --> 00:03:26,635 即使在更近代的时期， And even in more recent times, 53 00:03:26,685 --> 00:03:30,852 这座岩石岛也被用来保卫我们的海岸线。 this rocky outcrop has been used to defend our coastline. 54 00:03:34,485 --> 00:03:38,835 1939年，英国向纳粹德国宣战， In 1939, Britain declared war on Nazi Germany, 55 00:03:38,885 --> 00:03:42,861 而就在10月16日，这里发生了 and it was here on the 16th of October that the first 56 00:03:42,911 --> 00:03:44,710 战争中的第一次空袭。 air raid of the war took place. 57 00:03:49,652 --> 00:03:51,766 与我同行的还有一位 Joining me on this trip is someone 58 00:03:51,816 --> 00:03:54,953 亲眼目睹了整个事件的人。 who saw the whole event unfold. 59 00:03:55,003 --> 00:03:57,839 埃德·汤普森当时只有10岁。 Ed Thompson was just 10 at the time. 60 00:03:57,889 --> 00:04:00,192 这里有一幅艺术家的—— And in here there’s an artist's-- 61 00:04:00,242 --> 00:04:02,929 对空袭的描绘，就在这里。 Impression of the raid, here we are. 62 00:04:02,979 --> 00:04:04,219 非常戏剧性。 It’s very dramatic. 63 00:04:04,269 --> 00:04:07,879 我们当时在开往邓迪的火车上，大约下午2:30， We were on the Dundee train just about 2:30 64 00:04:07,929 --> 00:04:10,105 刚穿过桥入口的石拱门。 and we’d just gone through the stone arch 65 00:04:10,155 --> 00:04:12,592 at the entrance to the bridge. 66 00:04:12,642 --> 00:04:15,788 然后传来一声巨大的呼啸， And there was the most enormous whoosh, 67 00:04:15,838 --> 00:04:20,005 水柱喷得和桥顶一样高， and the water rose up as high as the top of the bridge, 68 00:04:21,620 --> 00:04:25,684 停靠在旁边的小船， and the little boat that was tied up alongside, 69 00:04:25,734 --> 00:04:28,744 那是南安普顿号军舰，被水柱抛向空中 which was HMS Southampton, it went up in the air 70 00:04:28,794 --> 00:04:32,220 又重重摔落下来。 in the fountain and crashed back down again. 71 00:04:32,270 --> 00:04:36,958 接着下游又传来更多爆炸声。 And then further down the river there were more explosions. 72 00:04:37,008 --> 00:04:38,629 你们的火车当时应该停下了。 And your train would have been stopped. 73 00:04:38,679 --> 00:04:39,462 在这里。 Here. 74 00:04:39,512 --> 00:04:40,581 真的吗，我明白了。 Really, I see. 75 00:04:40,631 --> 00:04:42,279 - 我从火车上看到 - I could see the men scattering about 76 00:04:42,329 --> 00:04:45,731 因奇加尔维的人们四处逃散。 down at Inchgarvie from the train. 77 00:04:45,781 --> 00:04:48,564 这是事发次日的原始报纸。 This is the original newspaper from the day after 78 00:04:48,614 --> 00:04:49,921 it happened. 79 00:04:49,971 --> 00:04:50,959 根据报纸记载， So according to the newspaper, 80 00:04:51,009 --> 00:04:52,871 有15人受伤。 there were 15 people hurt. 81 00:04:52,921 --> 00:04:56,130 - 提到若干伤亡，但无人死亡。 - It says a number of casualties, but no deaths. 82 00:04:56,180 --> 00:04:58,367 军舰上轻微伤亡。 Slight casualties on warships. 83 00:04:58,417 --> 00:05:01,375 - 但直到多年后我才发现 - But it wasn’t until many years later that I discovered 84 00:05:01,425 --> 00:05:05,225 我目睹的是15人丧生。 that what I’d seen was 15 people getting killed. 85 00:05:05,275 --> 00:05:06,562 为什么当时没有报道？ How come that wasn’t reported at the time? 86 00:05:06,612 --> 00:05:07,973 - 我想是出于安全考虑。 - I think it was security. 87 00:05:08,023 --> 00:05:09,682 - 是新闻封锁吗？ - Was that a news blackout on reporting. 88 00:05:09,732 --> 00:05:12,617 - 是的，我大约40岁才知道真相。 - Yes I think, well I was about 40 before I discovered this. 89 00:05:12,667 --> 00:05:13,500 - 真的吗？ - Really? 90 00:05:14,741 --> 00:05:17,444 报道称四架德国飞机 Reports claimed that four of the German planes 91 00:05:17,494 --> 00:05:18,953 被击落。 were shot down. 92 00:05:19,003 --> 00:05:21,318 实际只有两架。 In reality it was two. 93 00:05:21,368 --> 00:05:23,018 幸存的机组人员被俘 The surviving crew were captured 94 00:05:23,068 --> 00:05:26,531 关押在爱丁堡城堡。 and imprisoned at Edinburgh Castle. 95 00:05:26,581 --> 00:05:27,473 这是第一次空袭。 It was the first air raid. 96 00:05:27,523 --> 00:05:29,648 - 战争中的第一次空袭，没错。 - The very first air raid of the war, yeah. 97 00:05:29,698 --> 00:05:31,647 - 太不可思议了，你亲眼见证了。 - Extraordinary, you witnessed it. 98 00:05:31,697 --> 00:05:34,407 那一幕一定在你的脑海中 That scene must have lived with you in your imagination 99 00:05:34,457 --> 00:05:37,444 萦绕多年。 - 就像昨天发生的一样。 for years. - Oh, as if it was yesterday. 100 00:05:37,494 --> 00:05:38,911 太神奇了。 Amazing. 101 00:05:42,628 --> 00:05:46,054 继续我的旅程，我要更深入 Continuing my journey, I’m going even further back 102 00:05:46,104 --> 00:05:49,691 探索这些岛屿的历史，前往一个 into the history of these islands to visit a place 103 00:05:49,741 --> 00:05:53,741 曾是福斯湾圣岛的地方。 which was the sacred isle of the Firth of Forth. 104 00:05:54,678 --> 00:05:55,491 因奇科尔姆。 Inchcolm. 105 00:05:57,724 --> 00:06:01,891 这些修道院建筑可追溯至13世纪。 These monastic buildings date back to the 13th century. 106 00:06:07,002 --> 00:06:11,017 废弃的修道院是岛屿的璀璨明珠， The ruined abbey is the island's crowning glory, 107 00:06:11,067 --> 00:06:14,400 但其宗教历史更为悠久。 but its religious history is much older. 108 00:06:15,724 --> 00:06:18,473 传说圣哥伦巴在六世纪 According to legend, Saint Columba came here 109 00:06:18,523 --> 00:06:21,723 曾到访此地，这一事件被铭记于 in the sixth century, an event immortalized 110 00:06:21,773 --> 00:06:24,161 岛屿的名字中， in the name Inchcolm, 111 00:06:24,211 --> 00:06:27,294 盖尔语意为"哥伦巴之岛"。 which in Gaelic means Columba’s Isle. 112 00:06:29,761 --> 00:06:32,586 由于与圣哥伦巴的关联， Because of its associations with Saint Columba, 113 00:06:32,636 --> 00:06:36,051 因奇科尔姆被称为"东方爱奥那"， Inchcolm was known as the Iona of the East 114 00:06:36,101 --> 00:06:38,389 成为重要的宗教中心。 and became a significant religious center. 115 00:06:38,439 --> 00:06:40,888 但战争中没有净土， But nowhere is safe during war, 116 00:06:40,938 --> 00:06:43,813 即便是这样的圣岛。 not even a sacred island like this. 117 00:06:43,863 --> 00:06:45,988 在与英格兰的频繁战争中， And during the frequent wars with England, 118 00:06:46,038 --> 00:06:48,139 因奇科尔姆遭受重创。 Inchcolm suffered greatly. 119 00:06:48,189 --> 00:06:51,189 事实上，在一连串残酷袭击后， In fact, things got so bad that after a series 120 00:06:51,239 --> 00:06:54,239 情况恶化到修士们最终放弃修道院 of vicious attacks, the monks abandoned the abbey 121 00:06:54,289 --> 00:06:56,206 永远离开了这座岛。 and the island forever. 122 00:07:00,249 --> 00:07:02,999 修士们的祈祷与圣咏 The monks, their prayers and religious chanting 123 00:07:03,049 --> 00:07:04,299 早已消逝。 have long gone. 124 00:07:05,387 --> 00:07:07,463 在随后的五个世纪里， In the five centuries which followed, 125 00:07:07,513 --> 00:07:10,826 朝圣者逐渐被游客取代， pilgrims were eventually replaced by tourists, 126 00:07:10,876 --> 00:07:13,260 到20世纪初， and by the start of the 20th century, 127 00:07:13,310 --> 00:07:16,213 因奇科尔姆已成为东海岸 Inchcolm had become one of the east coast's 128 00:07:16,263 --> 00:07:19,624 最受欢迎的一日游目的地， most popular destinations for day-trippers, 129 00:07:19,674 --> 00:07:21,174 至今仍是如此。 and so it remains. 130 00:07:22,501 --> 00:07:25,789 如今该岛由苏格兰历史环境局管理， Today, the island is owned by Historic Scotland 131 00:07:25,839 --> 00:07:29,876 只有两名工作人员常住。 and two of its staff are the only residents. 132 00:07:29,926 --> 00:07:34,009 露西·库克答应带我参观修道院。 Lucy Cook has agreed to show me around the abbey. 133 00:07:35,849 --> 00:07:37,274 露西，你要带我去钟楼吗？ So you’re gonna take my up to the bell tower, Lucy? 134 00:07:37,324 --> 00:07:40,074 - 没错，我们慢慢来。 - I am, indeed, nice and slowly. 135 00:07:41,253 --> 00:07:42,764 - 是狭窄的螺旋楼梯？ - A narrow winding stair? 136 00:07:42,814 --> 00:07:43,597 - 正是。 - Absolutely. 137 00:07:43,647 --> 00:07:44,689 - 很小的门洞。 - A very small doorway. 138 00:07:44,739 --> 00:07:47,298 - 我见过最精致的之一。 - 修士们肯定很矮小。 - One of the best I’ve seen. - Must be very small, monks. 139 00:07:47,348 --> 00:07:48,474 - 想必如此。 - They must have been. 140 00:07:48,524 --> 00:07:51,211 这里能真切感受到历史的厚重。 There’s a real sense of the past here. 141 00:07:51,261 --> 00:07:55,326 这里曾是冥想与沉思的圣地。 This was a place of meditation and contemplation. 142 00:07:55,376 --> 00:07:57,434 而高处是领略这座岛屿 And up here is the best place 143 00:07:57,484 --> 00:08:00,571 全貌的最佳位置。 to fully appreciate this island. 144 00:08:00,621 --> 00:08:01,799 我们到了。 Here we are. 145 00:08:01,849 --> 00:08:03,822 哇，壮丽的景色。 Wow, magnificent view. 146 00:08:03,872 --> 00:08:05,573 - 相当不错吧？ - It’s not bad at all is it? 147 00:08:05,623 --> 00:08:07,571 那边能看见整个爱丁堡。 We’ve got all of Edinburgh across there. 148 00:08:07,621 --> 00:08:08,996 近得惊人。 Amazingly close too. 149 00:08:09,046 --> 00:08:10,267 - 是啊，非常近。 - Aye, really close. 150 00:08:10,317 --> 00:08:12,792 能看到城堡、亚瑟王座， You can see the castle, Arthur’s seat, 151 00:08:12,842 --> 00:08:15,378 桥就在我们身后。 and then the bridge is behind us. 152 00:08:15,428 --> 00:08:17,975 那边是法夫郡的全景。 And then the whole of Fife down that side. 153 00:08:18,025 --> 00:08:19,058 真是个完美的地方。 It’s a perfect spot. 154 00:08:19,108 --> 00:08:20,441 确实。 It is. 155 00:08:23,936 --> 00:08:25,984 - 但因奇科尔姆并非一直是 - But Inchcolm hasn’t always been a place 156 00:08:26,034 --> 00:08:28,600 精神沉思的净土。 of spiritual contemplation. 157 00:08:28,650 --> 00:08:31,644 战时它也曾参与过 It’s also had a part to play in defending our shores 158 00:08:31,694 --> 00:08:33,027 海岸防御。 during war time. 159 00:08:33,948 --> 00:08:36,954 有人告诉我岛上某处 And I’ve been told that somewhere on the island 160 00:08:37,004 --> 00:08:39,337 有条秘密军事隧道。 is a secret military tunnel. 161 00:08:42,754 --> 00:08:43,957 就是这里。 And this is it. 162 00:08:44,007 --> 00:08:46,923 设计目的是让士兵在敌军袭击时 It was designed to make access to a gun emplacement 163 00:08:46,973 --> 00:08:51,140 更安全快捷地进入尽头的炮台。 at the far end easier and safer in event of enemy attack. 164 00:08:58,005 --> 00:08:59,505 里面真黑。 It’s dark in here. 165 00:09:04,326 --> 00:09:07,852 据说一战期间有超过200名士兵 Apparently, over 200 men were stationed on Inchcolm 166 00:09:07,902 --> 00:09:10,152 驻扎在因奇科尔姆。 during the first World War. 167 00:09:14,292 --> 00:09:17,477 二战期间防御工事升级， The defenses were upgraded during the second World War 168 00:09:17,527 --> 00:09:20,577 炮台再次就位以抵御德军 when the guns were once again made ready to defend 169 00:09:20,627 --> 00:09:22,877 对海岸的进攻。 the coast from the Germans. 170 00:09:26,154 --> 00:09:29,044 因奇科尔姆并非唯一设防的岛屿， Inchcolm wasn’t the only island to be fortified, 171 00:09:29,094 --> 00:09:32,254 实际上福斯湾多数岛屿都是如此。 in fact most of the islands in the Forth were. 172 00:09:32,304 --> 00:09:35,190 为探寻更多这段血腥历史， And to discover more about this violent past, 173 00:09:35,240 --> 00:09:38,551 我前往其中防御最森严的 I’m heading to the most heavily fortified of them all, 174 00:09:38,601 --> 00:09:39,434 因奇基斯岛。 Inchkeith. 175 00:09:43,990 --> 00:09:48,817 因奇基斯岛扼守福斯湾入海口。 Inchkeith stands guard at the mouth of the Forth. 176 00:09:48,867 --> 00:09:51,440 我乘坐快艇 And to get there, I’m taking a fast rib boat 177 00:09:51,490 --> 00:09:52,907 横渡海湾。 across the Firth. 178 00:09:55,367 --> 00:09:59,402 同行的罗恩·莫里斯研究过这些岛屿 With me onboard is Ron Morris, who studied the extraordinary 179 00:09:59,452 --> 00:10:03,619 守卫海岸的非凡历史。 story of how these islands were used to protect our shores. 180 00:10:07,132 --> 00:10:10,362 尽管距离东海岸仅两英里， Despite lying just two miles off the east coast, 181 00:10:10,412 --> 00:10:12,315 因奇基斯岛鲜有人至， Inchkeith is rarely visited, 182 00:10:12,365 --> 00:10:15,615 但它有着丰富多彩的历史。 but this island has a colorful history. 183 00:10:17,090 --> 00:10:19,603 中世纪时，黑死病患者 In the Middle Ages, it was here that victims 184 00:10:19,653 --> 00:10:22,653 被送到这里等死。 of the Black Death were sent to die. 185 00:10:24,428 --> 00:10:27,003 如今这座岛无人居住， Today, this island is uninhabited, 186 00:10:27,053 --> 00:10:29,183 在废弃建筑间， and amongst the derelict buildings, 187 00:10:29,233 --> 00:10:32,983 大自然正逐渐收复失地。 nature is gradually reclaiming its territory. 188 00:10:33,895 --> 00:10:38,062 野花、荨麻和蓟草肆意生长。 There’s a jungle of wild flowers, nettles, thistles. 189 00:10:39,418 --> 00:10:43,143 很难想象这里曾是庞大军事行动 It’s hard to imagine that this was once the nerve center 190 00:10:43,193 --> 00:10:45,610 的神经中枢。 of a huge military operation. 191 00:10:46,643 --> 00:10:48,943 - 这张地图展示了 - I’ve a map here that can show the extent 192 00:10:48,993 --> 00:10:51,931 该岛如何成为重要要塞。 how the island itself became a major fort. 193 00:10:51,981 --> 00:10:55,532 它堪称福斯湾的直布罗陀。 In fact, it became the Gibraltar of the Forth. 194 00:10:55,582 --> 00:10:57,182 - 所以这是"岩石"？ - So this was the rock? 195 00:10:57,232 --> 00:10:59,082 - 正是"岩石"。 - This was the Rock. 196 00:10:59,132 --> 00:11:00,382 我们现在位置是？ So where are we? 197 00:11:00,432 --> 00:11:01,792 大约在这里。 We’re about here. 198 00:11:01,842 --> 00:11:03,376 这里，俯瞰着—— Here, looking down into-- 199 00:11:03,426 --> 00:11:05,491 - 俯瞰西侧炮台。 - Looking down towards the west fort. 200 00:11:05,541 --> 00:11:08,516 这里有炮台、这里有炮台、这里有炮台， There was a battery here, a battery here and a battery here, 201 00:11:08,566 --> 00:11:12,233 南端也有，全是六英寸口径火炮。 and one at the south end, all six-inch guns. 202 00:11:14,013 --> 00:11:16,277 岛脊高地上还有三门9.2英寸火炮 And there was three 9.2 inch guns on the high ridge 203 00:11:16,327 --> 00:11:18,913 纵贯全岛。 of the island, right down the spine of the island. 204 00:11:18,963 --> 00:11:20,863 福斯湾其他岛屿和海岸还有 And there was a whole network of other batteries 205 00:11:20,913 --> 00:11:22,924 众多支援因奇基斯的 on the islands and shores of the Forth 206 00:11:22,974 --> 00:11:24,715 炮台网络。 which supported Inchkeith. 207 00:11:24,765 --> 00:11:25,923 这里其实是军事综合体的 This is really the epicenter 208 00:11:25,973 --> 00:11:27,750 核心对吧？ of a military complex, isn’t it? 209 00:11:27,800 --> 00:11:28,975 - 确实如此。 - Yeah, it very much is. 210 00:11:29,025 --> 00:11:32,762 这是苏格兰最重要的海岸炮兵阵地。 This is the most important coast artillery site in Scotland. 211 00:11:32,812 --> 00:11:33,823 - 太不可思议了。 - That’s extraordinary. 212 00:11:33,873 --> 00:11:35,898 战争期间这里驻扎了多少士兵？ How many men would have been stationed here during the war? 213 00:11:35,948 --> 00:11:38,959 - 岛上曾同时驻军达千人。 - Up to a thousand personnel at one time on the islands. 214 00:11:39,009 --> 00:11:40,011 相当拥挤啊。 That's pretty crowded. 215 00:11:40,061 --> 00:11:41,144 没错。 Yeah. 216 00:11:43,206 --> 00:11:45,318 这里部署的重炮 The huge guns positioned here 217 00:11:45,368 --> 00:11:48,394 从未投入实战。 were never called into action. 218 00:11:48,444 --> 00:11:52,611 1956年撤除武装后部队撤离。 In 1956, they were decommissioned and the troops left. 219 00:11:53,637 --> 00:11:55,802 应该说因奇基斯岛 I suppose it’s worth saying, though, that Inchkeith 220 00:11:55,852 --> 00:11:57,562 及周边所有防御工事 and all the other fortifications around here 221 00:11:57,612 --> 00:11:59,187 起到了威慑作用？ worked as a deterrent? 222 00:11:59,237 --> 00:12:00,778 - 是的，它确实达到了目的， - Yes, it’s certainly served its purpose, 223 00:12:00,828 --> 00:12:04,661 因为德国海军从未尝试 because the German navy never made any attempt 224 00:12:05,715 --> 00:12:09,132 进攻福斯湾。 to make any attack in the Firth of Forth. 225 00:12:17,365 --> 00:12:20,842 - 独自探索岛屿时，我思索着每个来过的人 - As I explore the island alone, I reflect on how everyone 226 00:12:20,892 --> 00:12:24,059 留下的印记。 who has come here has left their mark. 227 00:12:28,803 --> 00:12:31,838 几个世纪以来，因奇基斯岛见证过 Throughout the centuries, Inchkeith has seen the arrival 228 00:12:31,888 --> 00:12:35,971 士兵、绝症患者甚至王室的到来。 of soldiers, the terminally ill and even royalty. 229 00:12:39,962 --> 00:12:43,586 但这些岛屿最神秘的居民 But perhaps the most intriguing inhabitants of these islands 230 00:12:43,636 --> 00:12:47,303 当属1493年来的两个孩子，他们 arrived in 1493, two young children who were 231 00:12:48,273 --> 00:12:51,587 在诡异环境中被抚养长大。 to be brought up under bizarre conditions. 232 00:12:51,637 --> 00:12:54,774 詹姆斯四世国王堪称哲学家， King James IV was something of a philosopher, 233 00:12:54,824 --> 00:12:56,924 他想进行一项关于语言起源的 and he wanted to conduct an experiment 234 00:12:56,974 --> 00:12:59,447 实验。 into the origins of language. 235 00:12:59,497 --> 00:13:02,509 当时神学家认为世界上 Now, theologians at this time believed that the very first 236 00:13:02,559 --> 00:13:05,870 最初的语言是亚当夏娃使用的 language spoken on Earth was the language of Adam and Eve, 237 00:13:05,920 --> 00:13:08,246 也就是古希伯来语。 in other words, ancient Hebrew. 238 00:13:08,296 --> 00:13:11,046 他们还主张既然人类都是 But they also argued that because we’re all descendants 239 00:13:11,096 --> 00:13:13,721 亚当夏娃的后裔，理应天生就会说 of Adam and Eve, we should all be able to speak 240 00:13:13,771 --> 00:13:15,854 古希伯来语。 ancient Hebrew naturally. 241 00:13:20,198 --> 00:13:23,834 为验证这点，詹姆斯国王将两名婴儿 To see if this were true, King James put two babies 242 00:13:23,884 --> 00:13:27,049 交给聋妇照料，放逐到因奇基斯岛 in the care of a deaf woman and sent them to live alone 243 00:13:27,099 --> 00:13:28,182 独居。 on Inchkeith. 244 00:13:31,473 --> 00:13:34,279 国王推论：若神学家正确， If the theologians were right, reasoned the king, 245 00:13:34,329 --> 00:13:37,389 孩子们自然发展的语言 then the language which the children would naturally develop 246 00:13:37,439 --> 00:13:40,829 应是希伯来语，从而佐证 would be Hebrew, thereby further vindicating 247 00:13:40,879 --> 00:13:42,796 圣经的真实性。 the truth of scripture. 248 00:13:44,867 --> 00:13:48,378 可惜这个雄心勃勃却残忍的 Unfortunately, this ambitious if somewhat inhumane 249 00:13:48,428 --> 00:13:51,779 实验毫无结果。 experiment proved absolutely nothing. 250 00:13:51,829 --> 00:13:53,802 当孩子们最终回归 And when the children were eventually returned 251 00:13:53,852 --> 00:13:57,402 文明社会时，无人能听懂 to civilization, no one could understand a word 252 00:13:57,452 --> 00:13:58,569 他们的言语。 that they said. 253 00:13:58,619 --> 00:14:01,262 有人认为他们发出的声音 Some people thought that the sounds that they made 254 00:14:01,312 --> 00:14:03,414 只是野兽般的咕哝。 were nothing more than brutish grunts. 255 00:14:03,464 --> 00:14:08,225 另一些人则认为那是古希伯来语。 Others interpreted the same noises as ancient Hebrew. 256 00:14:08,275 --> 00:14:11,738 但既然无人听过古希伯来语， But since no one had ever heard ancient Hebrew before, 257 00:14:11,788 --> 00:14:13,871 他们也无从确认。 they couldn’t have known. 258 00:14:16,603 --> 00:14:20,770 至于孩子们的结局，历史没有记载。 And as for what happened to the children, history is silent. 259 00:14:23,816 --> 00:14:26,765 显然这些岛屿拥有迷人而多元的 It’s clear that these islands have a fascinating 260 00:14:26,815 --> 00:14:29,651 历史，但我很高兴将战争思绪 and diverse history, but I’m happy to leave 261 00:14:29,701 --> 00:14:33,214 抛在脑后，为沉浸自然之美 thoughts of war behind, and in the hope of losing myself 262 00:14:33,264 --> 00:14:35,597 我继续东行。 in nature, I’m heading east. 263 00:14:37,116 --> 00:14:39,578 下一站是福斯湾 My next destination is the biggest island 264 00:14:39,628 --> 00:14:43,116 最大的岛屿——梅岛， in the Firth of Forth, the Isle of May, 265 00:14:43,166 --> 00:14:45,662 虽然它其实也很小。 which is still pretty small. 266 00:14:45,712 --> 00:14:48,364 实际上它长度不足一英里 In fact, it’s under a mile long 267 00:14:48,414 --> 00:14:51,574 宽度仅几百码。 and just a few hundred yards wide. 268 00:14:51,624 --> 00:14:55,035 七月造访梅岛看似不合时宜 Now, it might seem perverse traveling to the Isle of May 269 00:14:55,085 --> 00:14:58,410 但"May"这个名字与五月无关 in July, but the name, May, has nothing to do 270 00:14:58,460 --> 00:15:01,032 而源自古维京语"Mhaigh" with an early month and everything to do 271 00:15:01,082 --> 00:15:04,172 意为"海鸥岛"。 with the old Viking Norse word, Mhaigh, 272 00:15:04,222 --> 00:15:06,897 which means Gull Island. 273 00:15:06,947 --> 00:15:10,155 如今这里仍栖息着大量海鸥。 And there are plenty of them about. 274 00:15:14,248 --> 00:15:16,475 梅岛对野生动物的重要性 The importance of the Isle of May to wildlife 275 00:15:16,525 --> 00:15:18,811 使其被指定为 was recognized when it was designated 276 00:15:18,861 --> 00:15:21,028 国家自然保护区。 a national nature reserve. 277 00:15:23,880 --> 00:15:27,381 这看似田园诗般未受破坏的净土 This may seem like an idyllic, unspoiled place, 278 00:15:27,431 --> 00:15:30,764 却隐藏着阴暗的过往。 but this island harbors a sinister past. 279 00:15:35,993 --> 00:15:39,464 在这里你不仅能体验自然 Here you can experience not only the natural world, 280 00:15:39,514 --> 00:15:42,039 还能感受超自然力量。 but also the supernatural. 281 00:15:42,089 --> 00:15:45,056 邪恶女巫埃皮·朗的故事 Enter the wicked witch, Epi Lang, 282 00:15:45,106 --> 00:15:48,327 与岛上首座灯塔的建造 whose fate was curiously bound up with the story 283 00:15:48,377 --> 00:15:52,544 命运般地交织在一起。 of the first lighthouse to be built in the island. 284 00:15:55,068 --> 00:15:58,186 自船只开始在福斯湾航行以来 For as long as boats have sailed the Firth of Forth, 285 00:15:58,236 --> 00:16:02,066 海难就不断发生，许多船只 there have been shipwrecks, and many of them came to grief 286 00:16:02,116 --> 00:16:03,699 在梅岛附近遇难。 on the Isle of May. 287 00:16:06,567 --> 00:16:09,295 山上现存灯塔的前身 The predecessor to the lighthouse you can see on the hill, 288 00:16:09,345 --> 00:16:10,845 建于1630年， was built in 1630, 289 00:16:11,825 --> 00:16:14,917 实际上是苏格兰第一座灯塔。 and was actually Scotland’s very first lighthouse. 290 00:16:14,967 --> 00:16:17,472 它的遗迹仍可见， You can see the remains of it, just a stump 291 00:16:17,522 --> 00:16:19,663 就在现灯塔右侧的残墩。 to the right of the existing lighthouse. 292 00:16:19,713 --> 00:16:21,368 建造期间， Now, during its construction, 293 00:16:21,418 --> 00:16:25,251 建筑师在一场可怕风暴中溺亡。 the architect was drowned in a terrible storm. 294 00:16:27,666 --> 00:16:30,124 那是个黑暗迷信的年代， These were dark and superstitious times, 295 00:16:30,174 --> 00:16:33,268 有人认为安斯特拉瑟的女巫埃皮·朗 and some people believed that a witch, Epi Lang, 296 00:16:33,318 --> 00:16:36,736 掀起风暴惩罚了 from Anstruther, had raised the tempest to punish 297 00:16:36,786 --> 00:16:40,953 辜负当地姑娘的建筑师。 the architect for breaking the heart of a local lass. 298 00:16:42,446 --> 00:16:45,280 埃皮被指控为女巫并定罪 Epi was tried as a witch and found guilty 299 00:16:45,330 --> 00:16:48,427 与魔鬼勾结。 of being in league with the devil. 300 00:16:48,477 --> 00:16:52,644 按当时习俗，她被火刑处死。 As was customary at this time, she was burned to death. 301 00:16:53,728 --> 00:16:56,152 曾听命于她的狂风 And the wind that had done her bidding 302 00:16:56,202 --> 00:16:59,369 将火焰煽至白热化。 fanned the flames to a scorching fury. 303 00:17:00,628 --> 00:17:02,795 邪恶女巫死了。 The wicked witch was dead. 304 00:17:03,766 --> 00:17:04,599 叮咚。 Ding dong. 305 00:17:08,404 --> 00:17:09,700 离开梅岛后， Leaving the Isle of May, 306 00:17:09,750 --> 00:17:13,333 我穿越福斯湾返航。 I head back across the waters of the Forth. 307 00:17:16,587 --> 00:17:20,206 无论由女巫还是更可能由恶劣天气 Shipwrecks, whether caused by witches or more likely 308 00:17:20,256 --> 00:17:23,621 和霉运导致的海难， by bad weather and rotten luck, are very much part 309 00:17:23,671 --> 00:17:26,233 都是这些岛屿历史的重要部分。 of the history of these islands, 310 00:17:26,283 --> 00:17:29,406 如今福斯湾的海床 and today the seabed beneath the Firth of Forth 311 00:17:29,456 --> 00:17:32,540 不仅承载着历史， not only tells a story, but could be a source 312 00:17:32,590 --> 00:17:34,007 还可能蕴藏无尽财富。 of untold wealth. 313 00:17:35,055 --> 00:17:37,618 我随潜水专家马克·布莱斯 I’m joining diving expert Mark Blithe 314 00:17:37,668 --> 00:17:41,053 探寻波涛下的秘密。 to discover what lies beneath the waves. 315 00:17:41,103 --> 00:17:42,551 马克，我们现在漂浮在福斯湾中央 Mark we’re bobbing around in the middle 316 00:17:42,601 --> 00:17:45,310 据我所知这里 of the Firth of Forth here, as I understand it, 317 00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:49,729 以各类沉船闻名。 it’s quite a famous place for wrecks of all kinds. 318 00:17:49,779 --> 00:17:51,948 - 海底沉船众多， - There’s a lot of wrecks on the seabed, 319 00:17:51,998 --> 00:17:55,813 这片区域约有一百艘。 probably round about a hundred wrecks about this area. 320 00:17:55,863 --> 00:17:58,326 这片水域一定很危险吧？ Now, these waters must be pretty treacherous, 321 00:17:58,376 --> 00:17:59,205 不是吗？ are they not? 322 00:17:59,255 --> 00:18:00,660 又黑又冷。 It's dark and it's cold. 323 00:18:00,710 --> 00:18:03,620 潜水环境很有挑战性？ Is it a challenging diving environment? 324 00:18:03,670 --> 00:18:05,239 - 这可能是苏格兰最具挑战性的 - It’s probably one of the most challenging places 325 00:18:05,289 --> 00:18:09,974 潜水点，水域昏暗浑浊。 in Scotland to dive with darker, murkier waters. 326 00:18:10,024 --> 00:18:11,690 洋流很强。 There’s a lot of current. 327 00:18:11,740 --> 00:18:12,987 想必也很冷？ And it’ll be cold, too, I imagine? 328 00:18:13,037 --> 00:18:14,220 - 水温变化很大。 - Temperatures vary as well. 329 00:18:14,270 --> 00:18:16,383 今年最低到3.1度， This year we got down to 3.1 degrees, 330 00:18:16,433 --> 00:18:19,624 在北极潜水可能都比 and you know, you could dive the Arctic probably easier 331 00:18:19,674 --> 00:18:21,639 在福斯湾容易。 than you could in the Forth. 332 00:18:21,689 --> 00:18:24,624 能见度更好，温度可能只低一度。 Be better visibility and probably only one degree colder. 333 00:18:24,674 --> 00:18:26,244 - 说实话马克，你这描述可不太 - I have to say Mark, you’re not really painting 334 00:18:26,294 --> 00:18:27,442 吸引人啊。 a very enticing picture. 335 00:18:27,492 --> 00:18:30,781 为什么有人愿在如此黑暗寒冷 I mean why would anyone want to dive in such a dark, cold 336 00:18:30,831 --> 00:18:32,938 能见度极低的地方潜水？ place where there’s hardly any visibility? 337 00:18:32,988 --> 00:18:35,757 - 能在福斯湾潜水的人 - Well, really if you can dive in the Firth, 338 00:18:35,807 --> 00:18:38,724 就能潜遍全球。 you can dive anywhere in the world. 339 00:18:44,022 --> 00:18:45,430 你认为沉船潜水的 What is the allure, do you think, 340 00:18:45,480 --> 00:18:47,576 魅力何在？ of diving on a wreck? 341 00:18:47,626 --> 00:18:50,563 - 主要是前方未知的神秘感， - Well, surely the mystery of what’s in front of you, 342 00:18:50,613 --> 00:18:52,519 由于沉没时间久远， and because they’ve been down so long, 343 00:18:52,569 --> 00:18:55,401 船体覆满羽状海葵、 they’re absolutely covered in plume anemones, 344 00:18:55,451 --> 00:18:58,029 腮海葵和"死人手指"， gill anemones, dead man’s fingers, 345 00:18:58,079 --> 00:19:01,496 色彩非常鲜艳，橙白相间。 very, very bright, very orange and white. 346 00:19:05,824 --> 00:19:08,461 沉船对潜水者永远充满魅力， Wrecks will always be an allure for divers, 347 00:19:08,511 --> 00:19:12,235 蕴含太多历史，而且基本保持 and so much history, you know, and it’s untouched, 348 00:19:12,285 --> 00:19:15,673 沉没时的原貌，可看性极高。 virtually, from when it sunk, so a lot to see. 349 00:19:15,723 --> 00:19:19,244 - 就像凝固在海底的历史瞬间？ - So you’ve got moments in time in a way kind of frozen? 350 00:19:19,294 --> 00:19:21,000 是的，那些戏剧性时刻。 On the seabed, yeah, yeah. 351 00:19:21,050 --> 00:19:23,717 Those dramatic moments. 352 00:19:24,909 --> 00:19:26,384 我们下方有艘沉船？ And we’re above a wreck here. 353 00:19:26,434 --> 00:19:29,684 - 是的，HMS Saucy号，1940年沉没。 - Yeah, HMS Saucy, it was sunk in 1940. 354 00:19:30,542 --> 00:19:33,921 傍晚7:30左右离港， Left town at around about 7.30 in the evening, 355 00:19:33,971 --> 00:19:37,929 7:40就从雷达上消失。 and by twenty to eight it was off radar. 356 00:19:37,979 --> 00:19:40,277 非常悲惨的海难。 Quite a tragic sinking. 357 00:19:40,327 --> 00:19:43,630 船上约25名船员， There was round about 25 crew on it, 358 00:19:43,680 --> 00:19:47,318 据信只有5-6人生还。 and I believe five or six survivors. 359 00:19:47,368 --> 00:19:51,118 19人遇难，全都来自英格兰 19 perished all from a little town in England 360 00:19:52,019 --> 00:19:54,372 康沃尔郡的布里克瑟姆镇， called Brixham in Cornwall, 361 00:19:54,422 --> 00:19:57,638 这是该镇战时 and it was kind of the worst maritime disaster 362 00:19:57,688 --> 00:20:00,438 最严重的海难事故。 for that town throughout the war. 363 00:20:02,199 --> 00:20:06,032 遇难者中有父子、叔侄。 Because you had kind of fathers, sons, uncles. 364 00:20:10,549 --> 00:20:14,152 这是悲剧现场，战争坟墓。 That’s the scene of a tragedy, a war grave. 365 00:20:14,202 --> 00:20:16,453 潜水时你会想些什么？ What sort of thoughts go through your mind? 366 00:20:16,503 --> 00:20:18,411 必须保持敬畏之心， You just have to pay respect 367 00:20:18,461 --> 00:20:19,575 不能触碰任何物品。 when you’re down there. 368 00:20:19,625 --> 00:20:22,600 You obviously don’t touch anything. 369 00:20:22,650 --> 00:20:25,133 每艘沉船都有故事？ And all these wrecks have a story to tell? 370 00:20:25,183 --> 00:20:27,150 - 确实如此， - Very much so, very much so, 371 00:20:27,200 --> 00:20:31,079 有时会想象灾难发生的瞬间， and you sometimes think of the moment of tragedy 372 00:20:31,129 --> 00:20:34,379 以及遇难者遗骸 when it struck, and whether the remains 373 00:20:35,430 --> 00:20:37,847 是否仍在沉船中。 are still on the wreck today. 374 00:20:42,598 --> 00:20:44,830 - 世界各地的人来此 - People come from all over the world 375 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:48,907 随马克潜水，他还参与寻找 to dive with Mark in these waters, but he’s also involved 376 00:20:48,957 --> 00:20:52,571 查理一世沉没的 in an ambitious search for sunken gold, 377 00:20:52,621 --> 00:20:55,770 黄金宝藏船。 the treasure ship of King Charles I. 378 00:20:55,820 --> 00:20:59,653 - 约1645年沉没，船上载有 - Sunk around about 1645, and it had basically 379 00:21:01,279 --> 00:21:03,798 亨利八世的御用餐具—— Henry VIII’s dinner service on it and-- 380 00:21:03,848 --> 00:21:05,006 真的？ Really? 381 00:21:05,056 --> 00:21:08,162 - 这艘船承载着厚重历史。 - So a lot of history is steeped behind that one. 382 00:21:08,212 --> 00:21:10,969 我参与项目多年， I’ve worked on the project for a few years, 383 00:21:11,019 --> 00:21:13,635 但尚未发现任何线索。 but I haven’t actually discovered anything yet. 384 00:21:13,685 --> 00:21:14,468 明白。 Right. 385 00:21:14,518 --> 00:21:17,238 - 若能找到绝对是重大发现。 - But that will be a big one to find certainly. 386 00:21:17,288 --> 00:21:19,348 找到后会公布吗？ If you did find it, would you tell anybody? 387 00:21:19,398 --> 00:21:22,145 - 等我先拿几个盘子 - Well, once I got a couple of plates for my breakfast 388 00:21:22,195 --> 00:21:23,394 吃早餐再说。 in the mornings, yeah. 389 00:21:25,187 --> 00:21:27,247 - 但即便沉船宝藏的诱惑 - But even the lure of sunken treasure 390 00:21:27,297 --> 00:21:31,240 也无法让我挑战这片冰海。 can’t tempt me to brave these icy waters. 391 00:21:31,290 --> 00:21:34,207 福斯湾的水太冷了。 Oh, the Firth of Forth is freezing. 392 00:21:37,697 --> 00:21:40,675 留下马克和潜伴们继续搜寻， Leaving Mark and his diving chums to their search, 393 00:21:40,725 --> 00:21:44,432 我前往福斯湾群岛之旅的 I make my way to the final destination of my voyage 394 00:21:44,482 --> 00:21:46,589 最后一站—— among the islands of the Forth, 395 00:21:46,639 --> 00:21:48,556 恶名昭彰的巴斯岩。 the infamous Bass Rock. 396 00:21:53,856 --> 00:21:56,486 在这种光线下，岩顶仿佛 And in this light, it almost looks as if there’s been 397 00:21:56,536 --> 00:21:59,073 刚覆盖了新雪， a fresh fall of snow on the summit, 398 00:21:59,123 --> 00:22:03,290 但现在是七月，苏格兰也不该这么冷。 but this is July and not even Scotland can be that cold. 399 00:22:06,327 --> 00:22:08,797 靠近些就会发现 When you get a little closer, you realize 400 00:22:08,847 --> 00:22:10,589 眼前景象其实是 that what you’re actually seeing 401 00:22:10,639 --> 00:22:14,672 成千上万只塘鹅 are thousands upon thousands of gannets 402 00:22:14,722 --> 00:22:17,722 和数吨它们的粪便。 and several tons of their droppings. 403 00:22:19,046 --> 00:22:22,022 面对登陆这座海鸟要塞的 Faced with the daunting prospect of attempting 404 00:22:22,072 --> 00:22:25,237 艰巨挑战， to land on this seabird stronghold, 405 00:22:25,287 --> 00:22:30,202 我请来了导游玛吉·谢登协助。 I’ve enlisted the help of tour guide, Maggie Shedden. 406 00:22:30,252 --> 00:22:32,335 玛吉，我们离巴斯岩还有段距离 Now Maggie, we’re some distance from the Bass. 407 00:22:32,385 --> 00:22:35,610 不仅能看见塘鹅，还能听到叫声 I cannot only see the gannets up there, but I can hear them. 408 00:22:35,660 --> 00:22:36,552 声音震耳欲聋 It’s an incredible noise. 409 00:22:36,602 --> 00:22:38,765 至少有上万只 There must be thousands of them. 410 00:22:38,815 --> 00:22:40,274 - 很壮观吧？ - It’s incredible isn’t it? 411 00:22:40,324 --> 00:22:42,725 这是全球最大的单体 I mean, it’s the largest single rock colony 412 00:22:42,775 --> 00:22:44,548 塘鹅栖息岩 for gannets in the world. 413 00:22:44,598 --> 00:22:47,294 算上雏鸟和非繁殖期成鸟 I would say we’re looking at possibly just under 414 00:22:47,344 --> 00:22:49,958 总数约16万只 160,000 birds, if you include the chicks 415 00:22:50,008 --> 00:22:51,383 and the non-breeders. 416 00:22:51,433 --> 00:22:53,133 最特别的是它们 And I think what makes it so special 417 00:22:53,183 --> 00:22:55,514 距离城市仅半小时航程 is they’re just half an hour from the city. 418 00:22:55,564 --> 00:22:56,911 并非偏远荒野 They’re not wild and remote. 419 00:22:56,961 --> 00:22:59,221 能在城市门户拥有这般奇景 So to have this on the doorstep of a city, 420 00:22:59,271 --> 00:23:00,727 我们何其幸运 we’re incredibly lucky. 421 00:23:00,777 --> 00:23:04,226 - 但靠近大陆也使塘鹅 - But being so close to the mainland meant the gannets 422 00:23:04,276 --> 00:23:05,818 容易遭捕猎 were easy prey. 423 00:23:05,868 --> 00:23:08,925 最初人们觊觎它们的羽毛、 At first, they were prized for their feathers, 424 00:23:08,975 --> 00:23:11,740 油脂和肉质，到维多利亚时代 oil and flesh, but in the Victorian age 425 00:23:11,790 --> 00:23:15,159 猎杀竟成了娱乐活动 they were hunted just for sport. 426 00:23:15,209 --> 00:23:17,192 - 狩猎队常来此处 - There was shooting parties used to come out. 427 00:23:17,242 --> 00:23:19,679 坐在船里用枪 They used to sit off the Bass and blast the gannets 428 00:23:19,729 --> 00:23:21,333 射杀空中的塘鹅 out the sky with guns and whatnot. 429 00:23:21,383 --> 00:23:23,688 这有何难度？ I mean how difficult is it to hit a gannet, you know? 430 00:23:23,738 --> 00:23:26,812 在船上随便开枪就能打中 You sit in a boat, just fire your gun. 431 00:23:26,862 --> 00:23:27,910 它们体型巨大 You know they’re huge birds, 432 00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:30,769 翼展近六英尺，简直是 wingspan of just under six feet, and it was just so easy, 433 00:23:30,819 --> 00:23:32,238 活靶子 such an easy target. 434 00:23:32,288 --> 00:23:33,413 这不可持续吧？ And that’s not sustainable is it? 435 00:23:33,463 --> 00:23:36,255 到20世纪初 No, by the time the 20th century came, 436 00:23:36,305 --> 00:23:38,659 仅剩约3000只塘鹅 there was probably only about 3000 gannets left here. 437 00:23:38,709 --> 00:23:39,617 真的？ Really? 438 00:23:39,667 --> 00:23:42,098 - 种群数量锐减 - The colony dropped quite dramatically. 439 00:23:42,148 --> 00:23:43,685 是从濒危恢复的？ So it’s come back from the brink really? 440 00:23:43,735 --> 00:23:44,568 - 是的 - It has. 441 00:23:46,867 --> 00:23:48,621 - 禁猎令颁布后 - Hunting these birds was banned 442 00:23:48,671 --> 00:23:51,627 数量逐渐回升 and numbers gradually recovered. 443 00:23:51,677 --> 00:23:53,251 这座鸟类保护区 Visiting this bird sanctuary 444 00:23:53,301 --> 00:23:55,413 需特别许可才能进入 is by special permission only, 445 00:23:55,463 --> 00:23:57,613 若这还不足以劝退游客 and if that doesn’t deter visitors, 446 00:23:57,663 --> 00:24:01,830 震耳噪音和刺鼻气味绝对可以 what might is the noise and, I have to say, the smell. 447 00:24:03,097 --> 00:24:06,592 - 靠近巴斯岩前 - Bass Rock, you have to take a really nice deep breath 448 00:24:06,642 --> 00:24:07,921 得先深呼吸 as you approach the rock. 449 00:24:07,971 --> 00:24:10,060 这里有独特的气息 It really has a very unique aroma to it. 450 00:24:10,110 --> 00:24:11,003 "巴斯之韵" Eau de Bass. 451 00:24:11,053 --> 00:24:12,503 没错 That’s it. 452 00:24:12,553 --> 00:24:15,831 巴斯岩始终令我着迷 The Bass Rock has always intrigued me. 453 00:24:15,881 --> 00:24:17,340 罗伯特·路易斯·史蒂文森 Robert Louis Stevenson, 454 00:24:17,390 --> 00:24:19,880 其表亲在此建造了灯塔 whose cousins built the lighthouse here, 455 00:24:19,930 --> 00:24:24,255 在小说《卡特里娜》中着重描写过它 featured it prominently in his novel, Katrina. 456 00:24:24,305 --> 00:24:25,818 "随着黎明渐临 "With the growing of the dawn, 457 00:24:25,868 --> 00:24:28,427 "岩体愈发清晰 "I could see it clearer and clearer, 458 00:24:28,477 --> 00:24:31,359 "绿草覆顶 "the sloping top of it green with grass, 459 00:24:31,409 --> 00:24:34,971 "白雁绕飞 "the clan of white geese that cried about the sides, 460 00:24:35,021 --> 00:24:37,771 "残垣黢黑" "and the black broken buildings." 461 00:24:38,627 --> 00:24:40,995 不难理解他如何从这座岩礁 It’s easy to see how he drew inspiration 462 00:24:41,045 --> 00:24:43,462 黑暗历史中获得灵感 from the Rock's dark history. 463 00:24:45,992 --> 00:24:48,101 玛吉，左侧这堵墙是什么？ Maggie, what’s this wall I can see to the left here? 464 00:24:48,151 --> 00:24:50,582 看起来像古堡？ It looks almost like an old castle? 465 00:24:50,632 --> 00:24:52,660 这是岛屿的防御城墙 Well, this is really the curtain wall 466 00:24:52,710 --> 00:24:54,404 to fortify this island. 467 00:24:54,454 --> 00:24:55,906 这里曾是军事要塞？ So the island was a fortress at one time? 468 00:24:55,956 --> 00:24:57,931 既是要塞也是监狱 It was a fortress and a prison. 469 00:24:57,981 --> 00:24:58,764 监狱？ A prison? 470 00:24:58,814 --> 00:25:00,962 - 关押誓约派信徒 - A prison for the covenanters, one group of men 471 00:25:01,012 --> 00:25:04,047 他们因宗教问题反对国王 who disagreed with the king of the time over religion, 472 00:25:04,097 --> 00:25:06,180 许多是牧师 so it was actually many of them were ministers 473 00:25:06,230 --> 00:25:07,711 和传教士 and preachers that were sent here. 474 00:25:07,761 --> 00:25:09,548 - 他们被囚禁在此 - So they were incarcerated out here with not much 475 00:25:09,598 --> 00:25:11,069 生还希望渺茫？ prospect of getting back out? 476 00:25:11,119 --> 00:25:12,816 - 被流放至此极其悲惨 - It was a dreadful place to be sent. 477 00:25:12,866 --> 00:25:15,423 这里被称为"北方恶魔岛" I mean it is called the Alcatraz of the North sometime. 478 00:25:15,473 --> 00:25:17,492 只要跨过这道狱门 And once you get behind this prison gate, 479 00:25:17,542 --> 00:25:19,502 就插翅难逃 here there’s no escape. 480 00:25:19,552 --> 00:25:22,199 岛屿四周都是峭壁 The island is sheer all the way around, 481 00:25:22,249 --> 00:25:25,079 守卫有充足食物和水源 and you’ve got to remember on this Rock they had food, 482 00:25:25,129 --> 00:25:28,816 但囚犯一无所有 the guards had food, it was rich, there was a well, 483 00:25:28,866 --> 00:25:30,999 but the prisoners got none of this. 484 00:25:31,049 --> 00:25:33,959 只能饮用腐臭积水 They drank out of puddles and that was just putrid and-- 485 00:25:34,009 --> 00:25:35,256 完全剥夺生存条件？ Total deprivation really? 486 00:25:35,306 --> 00:25:36,089 - 正是 - Absolutely. 487 00:25:36,139 --> 00:25:38,778 他们还被迫目睹同伴 And at the same time they would witness friends 488 00:25:38,828 --> 00:25:40,923 在坦特伦城堡附近 and colleagues being hung across here 489 00:25:40,973 --> 00:25:42,490 被处决 near to Tantallon Castle. 490 00:25:42,540 --> 00:25:46,960 许多人走上这条路时都充满绝望 So I’m sure many a person walked this path with reluctance. 491 00:25:47,010 --> 00:25:48,026 - 令人毛骨悚然 - Chilling place. 492 00:25:48,076 --> 00:25:49,832 - 欢迎来到监狱 - Welcome to the prison. 493 00:25:49,882 --> 00:25:53,822 - 17世纪囚犯曾描述 - One 17th century prisoner described the hellish conditions 494 00:25:53,872 --> 00:25:55,926 地狱般的处境 they were forced to endure. 495 00:25:55,976 --> 00:25:58,920 "我们被禁言囚禁 “We are shut up not permitted to converse, 496 00:25:58,970 --> 00:26:03,131 "嫉妒飞鸟的自由 "envying the birds their freedom, shut up day and night 497 00:26:03,181 --> 00:26:07,348 "终日只听难友哀叹" "to hear only the sighs and groans of our fellow prisoners.” 498 00:26:09,198 --> 00:26:12,731 越狱被认为绝无可能 Escape from here was thought to be impossible, 499 00:26:12,781 --> 00:26:16,705 但1691年四名詹姆斯党囚犯 but in 1691, four Jacobite prisoners staged 500 00:26:16,755 --> 00:26:19,115 策划了惊天越狱 an audacious breakout, 501 00:26:19,165 --> 00:26:22,818 最终导致这些围墙倾塌 which would eventually bring these walls tumbling down. 502 00:26:22,868 --> 00:26:26,133 - 守卫在登陆点换班 - The guards call at the landing site 503 00:26:26,183 --> 00:26:28,770 只留一人看守 and they left just one guard in charge. 504 00:26:28,820 --> 00:26:31,746 囚犯制服守卫关闭狱门 They overpowered the guard, they closed the prison gate, 505 00:26:31,796 --> 00:26:34,413 控制巴斯岩近三年 and they held the Bass Rock for almost three years. 506 00:26:34,463 --> 00:26:35,788 - 控制了三年？ - They held it for three years? 507 00:26:35,838 --> 00:26:37,961 - 当局震怒 - The authorities were mortified. 508 00:26:38,011 --> 00:26:40,982 用尽手段想夺回控制权 They tried everything in their power to take the Rock back. 509 00:26:41,032 --> 00:26:43,476 炮轰、断粮 They bombarded it, they tried to starve them out, 510 00:26:43,526 --> 00:26:45,177 封锁补给 they stopped shipping coming in. 511 00:26:45,227 --> 00:26:47,858 但夜幕下总有意外 But under the cover of darkness anything can happen here, 512 00:26:47,908 --> 00:26:49,000 这次也是 and did. 513 00:26:49,050 --> 00:26:52,390 法国人同情詹姆斯党 The French had been very sympathetic to the Jacobites, 514 00:26:52,440 --> 00:26:55,097 提供了基本物资 and they lended them some basic supplies. 515 00:26:55,147 --> 00:26:55,981 - 奶酪和红酒？ - Cheese and wine? 516 00:26:56,031 --> 00:26:56,937 - 奶酪和红酒 - Cheese and wine, yes. 517 00:26:56,987 --> 00:26:58,603 法国人的基本配置 That’s basic supplies in my world. 518 00:26:58,653 --> 00:26:59,436 - 很法国 - As the French would. 519 00:26:59,486 --> 00:27:00,649 - 确实 - Absolutely. 520 00:27:00,699 --> 00:27:02,973 三年后当局要求谈判 And after three years, when the authorities said 521 00:27:03,023 --> 00:27:04,651 we have to discuss terms, 522 00:27:04,701 --> 00:27:07,097 受邀登岛时发现 they were invited out here, and when they came out, 523 00:27:07,147 --> 00:27:10,223 囚犯们正享用塘鹅盛宴 they were treated this wonderful banquet of Solan Goose, 524 00:27:10,273 --> 00:27:12,847 配法国美酒奶酪 the gannet, fine French wines and cheeses. 525 00:27:12,897 --> 00:27:15,354 堪比皇家筵席 This was food for a king, this was like a banquet. 526 00:27:15,404 --> 00:27:17,354 当局以为他们终日如此 Well, the authorities thought they were living like this 527 00:27:17,404 --> 00:27:19,891 实际已濒临饿死 every day, when in fact they were actually starving. 528 00:27:19,941 --> 00:27:23,020 但计策奏效 But it worked, the ploy worked, and they were given, 529 00:27:23,070 --> 00:27:25,011 他们立即获释 immediately given an honorable discharge 530 00:27:25,061 --> 00:27:27,526 堡垒随即被拆除 and the Rock was very quickly de-fortified. 531 00:27:27,576 --> 00:27:28,973 - 可见奶酪红酒 - Just goes to show that cheese and wine 532 00:27:29,023 --> 00:27:30,028 也能当武器 can be an effective weapon. 533 00:27:30,078 --> 00:27:30,880 - 确实 - Absolutely. 534 00:27:31,763 --> 00:27:32,951 我们去看看岛上其他地方 Let’s go and have a look at the rest of the island. 535 00:27:33,001 --> 00:27:34,251 好 Yes. 536 00:27:37,850 --> 00:27:41,058 - 讽刺的是 - It’s ironic to think that to escape from here, 537 00:27:41,108 --> 00:27:43,733 囚犯们必须把监狱 those captives had to turn their prison 538 00:27:43,783 --> 00:27:45,616 再次变成堡垒 into a fortress again. 539 00:27:47,599 --> 00:27:51,185 如今这座岛屿依然 And I suppose that today, this island still provides 540 00:27:51,235 --> 00:27:54,568 为保护物种提供庇护所 a safe haven for this protected species. 541 00:27:57,374 --> 00:27:59,933 塘鹅们守护着巴斯岩 The gannets defend the Bass Rock well, 542 00:27:59,983 --> 00:28:03,056 噪音与气味令人窒息 the noise and the smell are overpowering, 543 00:28:03,106 --> 00:28:07,072 这座海鸟之城却与人类世界近在咫尺 yet this seabird city is close to the human world. 544 00:28:07,122 --> 00:28:10,833 爱丁堡就在不远处 Edinburgh is just over there, a short gannet glide 545 00:28:10,883 --> 00:28:14,133 与这座福斯湾要塞隔海相望 from this island fortress in the Forth. 546 00:28:17,316 --> 00:28:20,361 若能成功逃离巴斯岩 And if I can make good my escape from the Rock, 547 00:28:20,411 --> 00:28:24,601 下段旅程将跨海前往天空岛 my next journey will take me over the sea to Skye.