1 00:00:03,589 --> 00:00:05,619 - 远眺地平线上的一座孤岛 - There is something magical about the sight 2 00:00:05,669 --> 00:00:08,586 总有种摄人心魄的魔力 of a distant island on the horizon, 3 00:00:09,499 --> 00:00:11,657 对于最早的航海者而言 and for some of the earliest travelers 4 00:00:11,707 --> 00:00:14,790 这些岛屿是神圣的彼岸 these were very special destinations. 5 00:00:15,654 --> 00:00:19,782 数百年来 诸多岛屿被奉为圣地 For centuries, many islands were considered sacred places, 6 00:00:19,832 --> 00:00:22,746 隐士与圣人在此避世 where mystics and holy men sought refuge 7 00:00:22,796 --> 00:00:26,546 参悟宇宙玄机 to contemplate the mysteries of the universe. 8 00:00:31,075 --> 00:00:33,097 我将启程探寻苏格兰 I'm setting out to discover the magic 9 00:00:33,147 --> 00:00:36,737 瑰丽群岛的神奇奥秘 of Scotland’s amazing island riches. 10 00:00:36,787 --> 00:00:40,067 在这蜿蜒六千英里的海岸线外 There are nearly 300 offshore islands 11 00:00:40,117 --> 00:00:44,002 星罗棋布着近三百座离岛 surrounding 6,000 convoluted miles of coast, 12 00:00:44,052 --> 00:00:46,538 我们所拥有的圣岛数量 and we boast more holy isles 13 00:00:46,588 --> 00:00:49,402 冠绝欧洲各国 than any other European country. 14 00:00:49,452 --> 00:00:53,619 用我母亲的话说 这是天赐之福 We are, as my mother would say, blessed with them. 15 00:00:54,719 --> 00:00:57,574 我即将开启一场圣岛朝圣之旅 I am embarking on an island pilgrimage, 16 00:00:57,624 --> 00:01:01,149 追随圣徒足迹 探访利斯莫尔岛 in the footsteps of the saints, to Lismore, 17 00:01:01,199 --> 00:01:02,949 科伦赛岛与奥伦赛岛 Colonsay and Oronsay. 18 00:01:20,737 --> 00:01:24,077 此行将前往西海岸的内赫布里底群岛 My journey takes me to the west coast and three islands 19 00:01:24,127 --> 00:01:27,493 探访其中三座岛屿 从利斯莫尔启程 of the Inner Hebrides, starting with Lismore 20 00:01:27,543 --> 00:01:30,345 再向南抵达科伦赛岛 and then travelling south to the islands of Colonsay 21 00:01:30,395 --> 00:01:31,395 与奥伦赛岛 and Oronsay. 22 00:01:35,232 --> 00:01:39,707 旅程始于奥本镇的短途轮渡 My grand tour begins with a short ferry crossing from Oban, 23 00:01:39,757 --> 00:01:43,174 这条航线曾是运送亡者的古道 following a route once taken by the dead. 24 00:01:45,440 --> 00:01:48,780 传说远古时期国王驾崩后 It's said that in ancient times when a king died, 25 00:01:48,830 --> 00:01:53,469 遗体会渡海至利斯莫尔岛安葬 his body was rode across the sea to the island of Lismore, 26 00:01:53,519 --> 00:01:56,243 长眠于神圣净土 where it was buried in sacred ground. 27 00:01:56,293 --> 00:02:00,499 这些异教君主是皮克特西部王朝的国王 Now these were Pagan royals, kings of the Western Picts, 28 00:02:00,549 --> 00:02:03,198 早在基督教与圣徒到来之前 who flourished here long before the arrival 29 00:02:03,248 --> 00:02:06,283 他们已在此兴盛多时 of Christianity and the saints. 30 00:02:08,435 --> 00:02:11,469 我来此探寻利斯莫尔岛尘封的 I've come to explore Lismore’s ancient royal 31 00:02:11,519 --> 00:02:12,852 王权与圣迹 and sacred past. 32 00:02:15,898 --> 00:02:19,517 这座岛屿不大 全长仅约十英里 This isn’t a big island, it's only about 10 miles long 33 00:02:19,567 --> 00:02:24,165 宽一英里 对我疲惫的双腿而言关键是 and just a mile wide, and crucially, for my weary legs, 34 00:02:24,215 --> 00:02:25,798 地势并不陡峭 it isn’t too hilly. 35 00:02:27,001 --> 00:02:29,052 "利斯莫尔"在盖尔语中 Translated from the Gaelic, Lismore 36 00:02:29,102 --> 00:02:31,539 意为"伟大的围场" means the Great Enclosure. 37 00:02:31,589 --> 00:02:34,383 可能指代早已湮灭的围墙花园 Now this could refer to a long lost walled garden 38 00:02:34,433 --> 00:02:36,959 或与早期修道院相关的 or to the type of enclosure associated 39 00:02:37,009 --> 00:02:39,009 某种围垣结构 with an early monastery. 40 00:02:42,935 --> 00:02:45,602 这里确实曾有一座修道院 And a monastery was indeed founded here 41 00:02:45,652 --> 00:02:47,436 由早期基督教会 by one of the missionary heroes 42 00:02:47,486 --> 00:02:49,986 的传教先驱所建 of the early Christian church. 43 00:02:53,324 --> 00:02:56,130 这座小教堂有个恢弘的称号 Now this little church is known rather grandly as 44 00:02:56,180 --> 00:02:59,252 "圣莫鲁瓦主教座堂" the Cathedral Church of Saint Moluag 45 00:02:59,302 --> 00:03:02,895 其所在地正是十三世纪 and it actually occupies a site of a 13th century monastery 46 00:03:02,945 --> 00:03:06,166 供奉圣莫鲁瓦的修道院遗址 dedicated to Saint Moluag himself. 47 00:03:06,216 --> 00:03:09,485 圣莫鲁瓦与圣科伦巴处于同一时代 Now Saint Moluag was a contemporary of Saint Columba 48 00:03:09,535 --> 00:03:13,196 一千五百年前他来到利斯莫尔 and he came to Lismore 1,500 years ago to convert 49 00:03:13,246 --> 00:03:16,079 引导皮克特异教徒皈依基督 the heathen Picts to Christianity. 50 00:03:18,246 --> 00:03:20,391 这座小教堂内 Here in this small church 51 00:03:20,441 --> 00:03:24,608 有一扇描绘圣莫鲁瓦的彩绘玻璃窗 is a beautiful stained glass window, depicting Saint Moluag. 52 00:03:26,183 --> 00:03:28,850 身旁是圣科伦巴的形象 And beside him is Saint Columba. 53 00:03:29,793 --> 00:03:33,960 他们看起来圣洁庄严 近乎温顺柔和 They look very holy and saintly, almost meek and mild. 54 00:03:36,204 --> 00:03:37,431 若你以为早期修士 But if you think being a monk 55 00:03:37,481 --> 00:03:41,628 终日只是祈祷冥想 in those early days was all about prayer and meditation 56 00:03:41,678 --> 00:03:43,852 那就大错特错了 then think again. 57 00:03:43,902 --> 00:03:47,522 利斯莫尔岛上的故事截然不同 Here on Lismore it was a very different story. 58 00:03:47,572 --> 00:03:52,145 凯尔特圣徒们剽悍如战士 The Celtic saints were a tough, almost warlike bunch. 59 00:03:52,195 --> 00:03:55,844 传说圣科伦巴与圣莫鲁瓦 Now legend tells us that Saint Columba and Saint Moluag 60 00:03:55,894 --> 00:04:00,433 曾为在利斯莫尔建修道院激烈竞争 had a rivalry to found a monastery here on Lismore, 61 00:04:00,483 --> 00:04:04,026 最终决定以划船比赛定胜负 and they decided to settle it by having a boat race. 62 00:04:05,783 --> 00:04:07,176 圣科伦巴以卓绝的 Saint Columba was a man 63 00:04:07,226 --> 00:04:11,393 体能优势很快领先 of great prodigious physical feats, was soon in the lead. 64 00:04:12,826 --> 00:04:17,521 但圣莫鲁瓦不甘失败 见脚边有斧头 But Saint Moluag refused to be defeated and seeing an ax 65 00:04:17,571 --> 00:04:22,032 便拾起斩断自己的手指 at his feet, he picked it up and cut off his own finger 66 00:04:22,082 --> 00:04:25,519 将断指抛上岸 高呼 and threw it on to the shore, saying 67 00:04:25,569 --> 00:04:28,228 "吾以血肉之躯率先抵达 "my own flesh and blood takes first possession 68 00:04:28,278 --> 00:04:32,445 此岛当归于主之名下" of this island and I claim it in the name of the Lord." 69 00:04:39,700 --> 00:04:42,453 据说圣科伦巴因此震怒 Now Saint Columba is said to have taken the huff 70 00:04:42,503 --> 00:04:45,466 诅咒此岛与圣莫鲁瓦 and cursed the island, and Saint Moluag, 71 00:04:45,516 --> 00:04:48,348 愿其在此饱受煎熬 and hoped he would be really miserable here, 72 00:04:48,398 --> 00:04:52,622 恕我直言 这实在有违基督精神 which I have to say is not really very Christian. 73 00:04:55,095 --> 00:04:58,196 圣莫鲁瓦虽不及圣科伦巴闻名 Saint Moluag may be less well known than Saint Columba, 74 00:04:58,246 --> 00:05:00,492 但在苏格兰基督教化进程中 but he played a hugely important role 75 00:05:00,542 --> 00:05:03,792 扮演了重要角色 in converting Scotland to Christianity. 76 00:05:05,739 --> 00:05:09,191 公元592年逝世时 He died in 592, after creating 77 00:05:09,241 --> 00:05:11,398 他已创建百余所修道院 more than a hundred monasteries 78 00:05:11,448 --> 00:05:15,120 其遗骸据信被迎回 and it's believed that his remains were returned here, 79 00:05:15,170 --> 00:05:16,087 利斯莫尔岛安葬 to Lismore. 80 00:05:18,406 --> 00:05:21,392 虽无人知晓其最终安息之地 Although no-one knows where his final resting place is, 81 00:05:21,442 --> 00:05:24,390 但有一件非凡圣物 there is one remarkable holy relic which survives 82 00:05:24,440 --> 00:05:27,145 历经沧桑保存至今 from his time, and which is kept here, 83 00:05:27,195 --> 00:05:30,709 现由巴赫尤尔男爵尼尔·利文斯顿保管 at the home of the Baron of Bachuill, Neil Livingstone. 84 00:05:30,759 --> 00:05:31,902 幸会 Good to meet you, 85 00:05:31,952 --> 00:05:34,869 期待一睹圣物真容 I'm looking forward to seeing this. 86 00:05:38,072 --> 00:05:42,239 - 这是圣莫鲁瓦的牧杖 - This is the crosier of Saint Moluag. 87 00:05:44,092 --> 00:05:44,875 - 太震撼了 - It's fantastic. 88 00:05:44,925 --> 00:05:47,587 - 我把它放下来细看 - I’ll just put it down here so we can see it. 89 00:05:47,637 --> 00:05:49,154 非凡的古物 Extraordinary looking relic. 90 00:05:49,204 --> 00:05:50,436 什么材质？ What's it made of? 91 00:05:50,486 --> 00:05:51,356 黑刺李木 It's blackthorn. 92 00:05:51,406 --> 00:05:52,189 嗯 Uh huh. 93 00:05:52,239 --> 00:05:56,633 这就是圣莫鲁瓦的牧杖 And that’s the, pastoral staff of Saint Moluag. 94 00:05:56,683 --> 00:05:58,397 如此说来这是真品？ So this is really ancient? 95 00:05:58,447 --> 00:06:00,148 距今1500年？ This is 1500 years old? 96 00:06:00,198 --> 00:06:01,506 - 近1500年 - Almost 1500 years. 97 00:06:01,556 --> 00:06:04,500 世代由我们家族守护 Come down in the family since then. 98 00:06:04,550 --> 00:06:06,944 - 肩负如此古老圣物的守护重任 - Don’t you feel a tremendous kind of burden 99 00:06:06,994 --> 00:06:08,624 是否感到压力巨大 of responsibility on your shoulders, 100 00:06:08,674 --> 00:06:11,131 责任重大？ to be the custodian for something so ancient? 101 00:06:11,181 --> 00:06:12,885 令人肃然起敬 Makes you feel very humble. 102 00:06:12,935 --> 00:06:16,741 圣莫鲁瓦以创建120座修道院闻名 Saint Moluag was famous for founding 120 monasteries. 103 00:06:16,791 --> 00:06:18,157 他使阿尔伯的皮克特人皈依 He converted the Picts of Ulber 104 00:06:18,207 --> 00:06:19,240 嗯 Uh huh. 105 00:06:19,290 --> 00:06:23,061 令人景仰 You just stand in awe of him. 106 00:06:23,111 --> 00:06:23,894 - 能触摸吗？ - Can I touch it? 107 00:06:23,944 --> 00:06:25,255 - 当然 - Absolutely. 108 00:06:25,305 --> 00:06:29,472 - 难以想象1500年前 - It is extraordinary to think that 1500 years ago 109 00:06:30,459 --> 00:06:33,335 这位圣人手持此杖 a holy man was holding this baton 110 00:06:33,385 --> 00:06:34,168 - 是的 - Yes. 111 00:06:34,218 --> 00:06:35,801 - 改变了整个民族的信仰 - As he was converting an entire nation. 112 00:06:35,851 --> 00:06:36,867 - 正是 - Yes. 113 00:06:36,917 --> 00:06:38,982 这是件蕴含神力的圣物 And it's a potent relic. 114 00:06:39,032 --> 00:06:40,955 - 人们更畏惧 - Well yes, people were more scared 115 00:06:41,005 --> 00:06:44,591 对此杖发伪誓 of swearing a false oath on the crosier 116 00:06:44,641 --> 00:06:46,974 甚于圣经 than they were on the Bible, 117 00:06:47,024 --> 00:06:49,631 因为必遭恶报 because something nasty always happened. 118 00:06:49,681 --> 00:06:53,428 这圣物确实蕴含非凡力量 There's no doubt that this has amazing powers. 119 00:06:53,478 --> 00:06:54,982 可有过相关神迹显现？ Have there ever been miracles associated with it? 120 00:06:55,032 --> 00:06:58,820 - 当然 传统上它被用于 - Oh yes, traditionally it's been um, 121 00:06:58,870 --> 00:07:01,091 各类治疗 据说能助产妇顺产 used for all sorts of cures, it was supposed 122 00:07:01,141 --> 00:07:05,308 治愈癫狂 to be good for women in labor, curing um, madness, 123 00:07:06,418 --> 00:07:08,481 我亲历的三起奇迹事件 and there have been three miracles I'm aware of 124 00:07:08,531 --> 00:07:12,342 皆归功于圣莫鲁瓦与此杖 in my lifetime attributed to Saint Moluag and this crosier. 125 00:07:12,392 --> 00:07:13,579 看来是根神力木杖 So a powerful piece of wood. 126 00:07:13,629 --> 00:07:15,755 确实如此 Yeah, very much so. 127 00:07:15,805 --> 00:07:16,976 从某些方面看 In, in many ways it's, it's quite 128 00:07:17,026 --> 00:07:18,376 它相当质朴 a plain looking object. 129 00:07:18,426 --> 00:07:19,209 - 是的 - 但实际蕴含着 - Yes. - But it's actually 130 00:07:19,259 --> 00:07:22,275 令人敬畏的古老力量 捧在手中 terrifyingly old and I feel slightly anxious having it 131 00:07:22,325 --> 00:07:26,543 令我战战兢兢 还是小心放回原处吧 in my hands, I put it very carefully back down there. 132 00:07:26,593 --> 00:07:28,472 无论你是否相信尼尔所述 Whether or not you believe Neil’s claims 133 00:07:28,522 --> 00:07:30,915 关于这件圣物的神迹 about the miraculous properties of this relic, 134 00:07:30,965 --> 00:07:35,206 守护如此古老的文物 being the custodian of an artifact as old as this 135 00:07:35,256 --> 00:07:37,530 确实令人寝食难安 is something of a worry. 136 00:07:37,580 --> 00:07:40,035 - 我们对防火近乎偏执 - We are neurotic about fire, 137 00:07:40,085 --> 00:07:44,292 将它存放在防火保险柜里 er, we, we have it in a fire proof um, safe. 138 00:07:44,342 --> 00:07:45,125 至今安然无恙 So far. 139 00:07:45,175 --> 00:07:48,507 说"摸摸木头"似乎不太合适 Say, say touch wood that’s not appropriate. 140 00:07:48,557 --> 00:07:50,310 - 所幸保存至今 - So far it's survived. 141 00:07:50,360 --> 00:07:52,623 每当渡轮停运时人们总说 Everyone tells me when the ferry’s not working, 142 00:07:52,673 --> 00:07:54,348 我何需渡轮 理当 why do I need a ferry, I should just be able 143 00:07:54,398 --> 00:07:56,152 踏浪而行 to walk across the water, 144 00:07:56,202 --> 00:07:59,992 但我指出妻子做不到 But I point out that my wife can't and, 145 00:08:00,042 --> 00:08:02,469 也不愿冒险打湿采购的物品 I don’t want to risk the shopping getting wet. 146 00:08:05,702 --> 00:08:07,884 - 利斯莫尔的宁静祥和 - The peace and tranquility of Lismore 147 00:08:07,934 --> 00:08:11,668 或许吸引了圣莫鲁瓦与修士们 might have been what attracted Saint Moluag and his monks, 148 00:08:11,718 --> 00:08:15,197 但岛屿的战略位置也招致 but the island’s strategic position also attracted 149 00:08:15,247 --> 00:08:18,080 不速之客——维京人 some unwelcome visitors; Vikings. 150 00:08:20,971 --> 00:08:24,198 眼前海岸边的城堡废墟 And the ruined castle in front of me, down by the shore, 151 00:08:24,248 --> 00:08:26,565 是岛上血腥历史的 is a relic from a very bloody period 152 00:08:26,615 --> 00:08:28,698 残酷见证 in the island’s history. 153 00:08:30,647 --> 00:08:32,374 这些残垣断壁 These ruins are all that’s left 154 00:08:32,424 --> 00:08:35,719 是麦克杜格尔家族在维京堡垒遗址 of a MacDougall castle, which was built on the site 155 00:08:35,769 --> 00:08:37,602 修建的城堡遗迹 of a Viking fortress. 156 00:08:40,231 --> 00:08:43,485 维京人最初为劫掠 The Vikings came first, to rob and plunder the riches 157 00:08:43,535 --> 00:08:46,501 圣莫鲁瓦修道院的财宝而来 of Saint Moluag’s monastery. 158 00:08:46,551 --> 00:08:50,038 后来征服该岛定居于此 They later conquered the island and settled here, 159 00:08:50,088 --> 00:08:54,423 但并非总能如愿 but things didn’t always go their own way. 160 00:08:54,473 --> 00:08:56,551 早期某次维京突袭中 During one early Viking raid, 161 00:08:56,601 --> 00:08:58,358 所有岛民都撤离了利斯莫尔 all the islanders left Lismore, 162 00:08:58,408 --> 00:09:02,125 唯有一位勇猛女子留下 except for one very brave and strong woman. 163 00:09:02,175 --> 00:09:04,893 她叫埃莉·摩尔 Her name was Elly Moore. 164 00:09:04,943 --> 00:09:07,583 当维京人企图偷走 Now Elly was so enraged when the Vikings tried 165 00:09:07,633 --> 00:09:11,096 她最爱的奶牛时 埃莉怒不可遏 to steal her favorite cow that she hurled herself 166 00:09:11,146 --> 00:09:15,092 徒手击杀三名维京海盗 at them and killed three Vikings with her bare hands, 167 00:09:15,142 --> 00:09:17,653 又撼动巨石 and then she dislodged an enormous boulder 168 00:09:17,703 --> 00:09:21,470 滚落海岸砸死维京首领 and rolled it on to the shore, killing the Viking chief. 169 00:09:21,520 --> 00:09:23,711 敌军就此溃逃 After that, they all left, 170 00:09:23,761 --> 00:09:27,367 埃莉保住了心爱的奶牛 leaving Elly to keep her favorite cow. 171 00:09:32,204 --> 00:09:35,721 离开城堡 我前往利斯莫尔岛 Leaving the castle, I make my way towards the empty 172 00:09:35,771 --> 00:09:38,938 荒芜的南端 and deserted southern end of Lismore. 173 00:09:40,869 --> 00:09:42,779 此处正适合领略 This is just the place to appreciate 174 00:09:42,829 --> 00:09:45,131 岛屿的天然屏障 the island’s sheltered location, 175 00:09:45,181 --> 00:09:48,898 两侧高山环抱 enfolded by high mountains on either side. 176 00:09:48,948 --> 00:09:51,698 而前方 浩瀚大海正在召唤 But ahead, the open sea beckons. 177 00:09:53,443 --> 00:09:55,771 远处是洛恩湾 Out there is the Firth of Lorne, 178 00:09:55,821 --> 00:09:58,038 点缀着美丽岛群 studded with beautiful islands, 179 00:09:58,088 --> 00:10:01,625 其中多属圣地 凯尔特教会的 and many of them holy places, where the monks and saints 180 00:10:01,675 --> 00:10:04,551 修士圣徒曾在此 of the old Celtic church lived out their lives 181 00:10:04,601 --> 00:10:06,594 虔修度日 in prayerful meditation, 182 00:10:06,644 --> 00:10:09,689 地平线那端正是我苏格兰群岛之旅 and just on the horizon is the next destination 183 00:10:09,739 --> 00:10:13,260 的下一站 in my grand tour of the Scottish islands. 184 00:10:15,495 --> 00:10:18,327 在前往科伦赛与奥伦赛岛之前 But before I head to Colonsay and Oronsay, 185 00:10:18,377 --> 00:10:20,382 我将与畅销书作家 I'm joining best selling author 186 00:10:20,432 --> 00:10:24,991 资深岛屿爱好者亚历山大·麦考尔·史密斯同船 and long time island enthusiast, Alexander McCall Smith, 187 00:10:25,041 --> 00:10:26,600 - 岛屿有种独特魅力 on his yacht. 188 00:10:26,650 --> 00:10:29,094 我觉得它们宁静而 - There's something very special about islands 189 00:10:29,144 --> 00:10:33,227 启人心智 I find them very quiet and um, inspiring places. 190 00:10:34,597 --> 00:10:38,329 - 这位创作了《第一女子侦探社》的 - Creator of the hugely successful Number One Lady’s 191 00:10:38,379 --> 00:10:42,667 作家桑迪常驾船游弋于 Detective Agency novels, Sandy can often be found sailing 192 00:10:42,717 --> 00:10:46,306 西海岸群岛之间 amongst the islands of the west coast. 193 00:10:46,356 --> 00:10:48,898 桑迪 你认为岛屿特质是否特别 Sandy, do you think there's something about the nature 194 00:10:48,948 --> 00:10:52,147 能激发创作灵感 of an island that appeals to the creative imagination, 195 00:10:52,197 --> 00:10:53,061 你身为作家 ‘cause you're a writer obviously, 196 00:10:53,111 --> 00:10:55,898 可会从中获得 I mean do you derive satisfaction and inspiration 197 00:10:55,948 --> 00:10:57,834 满足与启发？ from being in these places? 198 00:10:57,884 --> 00:10:59,961 - 我认为岛屿作为 - Well I, I think in so far as an island 199 00:11:00,011 --> 00:11:03,534 灵性之地 在某种意义上 is a very spiritual place, it's a, it's, 200 00:11:03,584 --> 00:11:05,771 是完整的小世界 a complete world in a sense. 201 00:11:05,821 --> 00:11:08,009 置身岛上便远离尘嚣 You're away from the rest of humanity when you're 202 00:11:08,059 --> 00:11:11,248 或许这种环境能促进 on an island, it probably assists creativity 203 00:11:11,298 --> 00:11:13,038 深度思考 in that one can think. 204 00:11:14,538 --> 00:11:17,951 - 作家向来追求岛屿的孤寂 - Writers have long sought the isolation of islands. 205 00:11:18,001 --> 00:11:20,888 不远处是朱拉岛 Not far from here is the Isle of Jura, 206 00:11:20,938 --> 00:11:24,271 乔治·奥威尔曾在此创作《1984》 where George Orwell famously wrote 1984. 207 00:11:25,786 --> 00:11:29,301 无论是丹尼尔·笛福、H·G·威尔斯 In fact, whether it's Daniel Defoe, H.G Wells 208 00:11:29,351 --> 00:11:31,838 还是罗伯特·路易斯·史蒂文森 or Robert Louis Stevenson, there's something about 209 00:11:31,888 --> 00:11:36,814 岛屿总能孕育 an island that lends itself to intrigue and drama. 210 00:11:36,864 --> 00:11:39,091 诡谲传奇 I can still remember the thrill 211 00:11:39,141 --> 00:11:42,891 我至今记得初读伊妮德·布莱顿 of first reading Enid Blyton’s Secret Island. 212 00:11:43,730 --> 00:11:45,175 《神秘岛》的悸动 There's something delightful about the idea 213 00:11:45,225 --> 00:11:47,900 小岛概念令人 of a small island, takes you back to childhood in some ways, 214 00:11:47,950 --> 00:11:48,733 重返童真 不是吗？ - 确实 does it not? - Yes. 215 00:11:48,783 --> 00:11:49,566 - 某种 - 是的 - A sort of - Yes. 216 00:11:49,616 --> 00:11:50,660 - 界限分明的 - 没错 - A clearly defined area of-- - Yes. 217 00:11:50,710 --> 00:11:52,420 - 专属领地 - Which you could call your own. 218 00:11:52,470 --> 00:11:55,905 - 孩童时我们的世界很小 - Yes, as children we have a very small world around us, 219 00:11:55,955 --> 00:11:59,418 这种安全感或许 the world is small, and I suppose we have some memory 220 00:11:59,468 --> 00:12:01,481 深植记忆 of the security of that. 221 00:12:01,531 --> 00:12:04,295 成年后若生活在 And later on, if one lives in a, 222 00:12:04,345 --> 00:12:07,071 可尽收眼底的 on an island which you can see all the, the, 223 00:12:07,121 --> 00:12:10,421 岛屿上 便能重温 the boundaries of, then you have that sense of security, 224 00:12:10,471 --> 00:12:12,711 子宫般的安稳 sort of womb-like comfort. 225 00:12:12,761 --> 00:12:14,575 我理解早期圣徒 I can see how for the early saints, 226 00:12:14,625 --> 00:12:16,567 为何钟情岛屿 islands made a great deal of sense. 227 00:12:16,617 --> 00:12:20,069 这是充满灵性的静谧之地 They, they are very spiritual places and very quiet places. 228 00:12:20,119 --> 00:12:22,027 这份痴迷促使桑迪 That fascination has led Sandy 229 00:12:22,077 --> 00:12:24,535 买下科尔的凯恩群岛 to buy the Cairns of Coll, 230 00:12:24,585 --> 00:12:28,752 这片临近科尔岛的小岛链 a string of tiny islands just off the coast of Coll itself, 231 00:12:29,684 --> 00:12:31,922 而他并非唯一 and he's not the only one who is drawn 232 00:12:31,972 --> 00:12:34,472 向往浪漫岛居生活的人 to the romantic island ideal. 233 00:12:36,719 --> 00:12:39,221 - 如今许多人渴望 - Many people today find it very attractive 234 00:12:39,271 --> 00:12:40,871 隐居海岛 to go off and live on an island. 235 00:12:40,921 --> 00:12:43,443 岛上常有强烈的 There's an, often a very strong sense of community 236 00:12:43,493 --> 00:12:47,831 社区意识 比如科伦赛岛 on an island, so if you have an island, such as Colonsay, 237 00:12:47,881 --> 00:12:50,740 人们在此觅得都市中 they find a tranquility, and a fulfillment, 238 00:12:50,790 --> 00:12:53,073 难寻的宁静与满足 which they may not find in an inner city. 239 00:12:56,149 --> 00:12:57,824 为追寻这份满足 In search of that fulfillment 240 00:12:57,874 --> 00:13:01,799 我继续朝圣之旅前往科伦赛岛 I'm continuing my pilgrimage to Colonsay. 241 00:13:01,849 --> 00:13:06,010 这座赫布里底群岛中的岛屿 This Hebridean island lies in the path of Atlantic waves, 242 00:13:06,060 --> 00:13:10,227 正对横跨三千英里无垠大洋而来的 which have traveled across 3,000 miles of unbroken ocean. 243 00:13:15,753 --> 00:13:18,127 科伦赛岛或许容易被忽视 Colonsay may be easily overlooked, 244 00:13:18,177 --> 00:13:20,626 但正如这首维多利亚时代诗作所示 but as this Victorian verse suggests, 245 00:13:20,676 --> 00:13:23,704 它给予访客的远超预期 it has much to offer visitors. 246 00:13:23,754 --> 00:13:26,404 风雨中的旅人且驻足 Storm tossed traveler on your way, 247 00:13:26,454 --> 00:13:29,104 莫过孤岛科伦赛 pass not lonely Colonsay. 248 00:13:29,154 --> 00:13:33,044 此地相逢诚相待 真情胜却 There you will a welcome find, none more heartfelt, 249 00:13:33,094 --> 00:13:34,177 万千言 true or kind. 250 00:13:35,551 --> 00:13:37,924 纵使风景寒如铁 Though the scene looks cold and grey, 251 00:13:37,974 --> 00:13:40,611 人心炽热似熔岩 hearts are warm in Colonsay. 252 00:13:40,661 --> 00:13:42,411 好诗 Alright. 253 00:13:42,461 --> 00:13:46,628 - 如今科伦赛岛居住着 - Today, Colonsay is home to some 120 warm hearts, 254 00:13:47,537 --> 00:13:51,128 约120位热情岛民 and despite being only 10 miles long by two miles wide, 255 00:13:51,178 --> 00:13:54,415 虽仅长十英里宽两英里 却蕴藏 there’s a rich past to explore here. 256 00:13:55,640 --> 00:14:00,379 深厚历史 My first stop is the lush surroundings of Colonsay House, 257 00:14:00,429 --> 00:14:04,840 首站来到绿荫环抱的科伦赛庄园 home to the present owners, the Strathcona Family. 258 00:14:04,890 --> 00:14:08,280 现主人斯特拉思科纳家族的 It was their Great, Great Grandfather, Lord Strathcona, 259 00:14:08,330 --> 00:14:12,890 高曾祖父——白手起家的百万富翁斯特拉思科纳勋爵 a self made millionaire, who bought the island in 1905 260 00:14:12,940 --> 00:14:17,107 于1905年购下此岛 斥巨资 he lavished a fortune on the house and it's gardens. 261 00:14:18,479 --> 00:14:20,717 此后花园虽呈野态 Since then the garden’s gone wild, 262 00:14:20,767 --> 00:14:25,530 却野得妙趣横生 遍布异域疯长的植物 but in a good way, it's full of exotic, overgrown plants 263 00:14:25,580 --> 00:14:28,417 我深入这片狂野幻境 and it's into this untamed fantasy garden 264 00:14:28,467 --> 00:14:32,067 只为瞻仰凯尔特文明的遗珍 that I've come to see a relic of our Celtic past, 265 00:14:32,117 --> 00:14:34,439 里斯格·布伊十字碑 the Riasg Buidhe Cross. 266 00:14:40,012 --> 00:14:42,726 我实在难以参透此物玄机 Now I'm not altogether sure what to make of this. 267 00:14:42,776 --> 00:14:46,227 这显然是某种基督教符号 It's, clearly a Christian symbol of some kind, 268 00:14:46,277 --> 00:14:48,263 据考应制作于公元五世纪 and apparently it dates from between the fifth 269 00:14:48,313 --> 00:14:51,752 至七世纪间 堪称远古遗存 and the seventh century AD, so it's pretty ancient. 270 00:14:51,802 --> 00:14:55,442 十字雕刻清晰可辨 Now there's a cross carved here, that’s clear enough, 271 00:14:55,492 --> 00:14:57,892 奇异的是十字顶端竟有人首 and strangely there's a head on top of the cross. 272 00:14:57,942 --> 00:15:00,328 有人认为可能是修士形象 Now some people believe this could be a monk, 273 00:15:00,378 --> 00:15:02,642 某位圣徒甚或基督本尊 a saint or perhaps even Christ himself. 274 00:15:02,692 --> 00:15:05,755 无论代表何人何物 But whoever, or whatever it represents, 275 00:15:05,805 --> 00:15:08,492 整体透着异教气息 the whole thing has a Pagan feel to it 276 00:15:08,542 --> 00:15:10,778 另一面的表现更为直白 and this is made very clear on the other side, 277 00:15:10,828 --> 00:15:14,942 纹饰简朴 雕刻着—— which is not quite so ornate and which has been carved, 278 00:15:14,992 --> 00:15:17,191 恕我难以婉转表述—— I'm not quite sure how to put this delicately, 279 00:15:17,241 --> 00:15:19,408 男性生殖器图腾 to resemble a large penis. 280 00:15:20,565 --> 00:15:22,928 至少考古学家如此断言 At least that’s what archaeologists maintain 281 00:15:22,978 --> 00:15:27,145 他们在此领域的学识远胜于我 and they're more learned than I am in these matters. 282 00:15:28,367 --> 00:15:30,928 有人认为里斯格·布伊十字碑 Some people believe that the Riasg Buidhe Cross 283 00:15:30,978 --> 00:15:34,102 本是异教图腾 后世石匠 was once a Pagan totem that was transformed 284 00:15:34,152 --> 00:15:37,565 添加基督教符号后 into a Christian object by later stonemasons, 285 00:15:37,615 --> 00:15:40,282 才转为圣物 who added the Christian symbols. 286 00:15:42,315 --> 00:15:45,405 在我看来 科伦赛岛确是 It seems to me that Colonsay is indeed a place 287 00:15:45,455 --> 00:15:47,705 多元文化交融之地 where different influences were absorbed, 288 00:15:47,755 --> 00:15:50,601 基督教与异教传统在此 and lines between Christian and Pagan traditions 289 00:15:50,651 --> 00:15:51,734 界限模糊 were blurred. 290 00:15:54,341 --> 00:15:58,339 下一站前往美丽的基尔多伦湾 I'm heading next to the beautiful Kildoran Bay, 291 00:15:58,389 --> 00:16:01,068 拜访当地历史学家凯文·伯恩 to meet local historian Kevin Byrne, 292 00:16:01,118 --> 00:16:04,515 了解早期入侵者如何反被 to hear about another example of how early invaders 293 00:16:04,565 --> 00:16:07,218 科伦赛岛民影响的 of Colonsay found themselves influenced 294 00:16:07,268 --> 00:16:10,604 又一例证 by the people they came to conquer. 295 00:16:10,654 --> 00:16:12,202 凯文 我们在此寻找什么？ Kevin, what are we looking for here? 296 00:16:12,252 --> 00:16:15,718 - 此处临近 - Well, we’re close to the site of, 297 00:16:15,768 --> 00:16:17,867 一处重要的维京船葬遗址 quite an important Viking ship burial, 298 00:16:17,917 --> 00:16:20,418 这是目前已知唯一 'cause it's the only known Viking ship burial anywhere 299 00:16:20,468 --> 00:16:22,975 与基督教有关的维京船葬 in which there are Christian associations. 300 00:16:23,025 --> 00:16:26,315 - 为何选址于此？ - Why do you think they chose this site? 301 00:16:26,365 --> 00:16:28,078 - 我想有两个原因 - I think probably for two reasons. 302 00:16:28,128 --> 00:16:30,964 其一 基尔多伦湾风光绝美 A, it's extraordinarily beautiful looking out 303 00:16:31,014 --> 00:16:35,365 与爱奥纳岛隔海相望 across Kiloran Bay, this was actually within sight of Iona. 304 00:16:35,415 --> 00:16:38,378 因此与圣科伦巴的关联 And the association therefore with Saint Columba 305 00:16:38,428 --> 00:16:40,060 在当时至关重要 will have been very important at that time. 306 00:16:40,110 --> 00:16:42,041 - 说明此地早有灵性传统？ - So there was a spiritual dimension here already? 307 00:16:42,091 --> 00:16:43,788 - 确凿无疑 - Well there certainly was. 308 00:16:43,838 --> 00:16:46,340 - 1882年考古学家来此 - In 1882, archaeologists came here 309 00:16:46,390 --> 00:16:49,666 勘察隆起土丘 to investigate a raised mound. 310 00:16:49,716 --> 00:16:52,516 发现沙土之下掩埋着 They discovered that hidden under the sand 311 00:16:52,566 --> 00:16:57,079 保存完好的维京葬船 was a remarkably well preserved Viking burial ship. 312 00:16:57,129 --> 00:16:59,630 当年考古学家所见是何景象？ What would the early archaeologists have seen here? 313 00:16:59,680 --> 00:17:02,748 - 据我推断船体长约 - Well as far as I can see it would have been 314 00:17:02,798 --> 00:17:07,356 三十英尺 倒扣覆盖整个墓穴 about this long, in the order of about 30 feet altogether. 315 00:17:07,406 --> 00:17:11,718 但墓穴内部还设有 It’d been upturned to cover the entire burial site, 316 00:17:11,768 --> 00:17:13,918 石砌围垣 but within that burial site there 317 00:17:13,968 --> 00:17:18,165 两端石块刻有 had been a walled enclosure. 318 00:17:18,215 --> 00:17:22,382 深凿的十字纹饰 The stones at each end had got a deeply inscribed cross. 319 00:17:25,295 --> 00:17:26,859 那么这是基督教维京人？ These were Christian Vikings then? 320 00:17:26,909 --> 00:17:28,742 - 已皈依基督 - Yes, Christianised. 321 00:17:28,792 --> 00:17:32,372 采用基督教符号体系 They had adopted the signs and symbols of Christianity. 322 00:17:32,422 --> 00:17:36,589 围垣内此处葬有一名男子 Within the enclosure there was a man buried about here. 323 00:17:38,225 --> 00:17:40,585 随葬品颇为丰厚 And he had with him a lot of important grave goods. 324 00:17:40,635 --> 00:17:44,802 有铁锅 典型维京长剑 He had an iron pot, he had a long typical Viking sword, 325 00:17:45,698 --> 00:17:50,385 三枚钱币 作为传统 and there were three coins, the traditional money offering 326 00:17:50,435 --> 00:17:53,135 渡资随葬 用以支付冥河船夫 buried with the dead, which was to pay the ferryman. 327 00:17:53,185 --> 00:17:56,562 最关键的发现是 And in particular, the most important feature of all was, 328 00:17:56,612 --> 00:18:00,625 死者蜷曲的臂弯间 as he was crouched up, in the cavity there was, 329 00:18:00,675 --> 00:18:03,738 护有一套精美绝伦的 protected by his arms, was a, an important 330 00:18:03,788 --> 00:18:08,088 镶铅装饰的 and very beautiful, set of scales and set of weights, 331 00:18:08,138 --> 00:18:11,521 天平与砝码 which were decorated with a inlay on top of lead. 332 00:18:11,571 --> 00:18:15,500 此物似与基督教关联 It seems to be a link with Christianity. 333 00:18:15,550 --> 00:18:16,958 这套天平的发现 The discovery of these scales 334 00:18:17,008 --> 00:18:18,925 意义非凡 was hugely significant. 335 00:18:20,635 --> 00:18:23,081 早期基督徒相信大天使米迦勒 Some early Christians believe that Saint Michael 336 00:18:23,131 --> 00:18:26,655 负责接引亡魂 the Archangel was responsible for escorting the souls 337 00:18:26,705 --> 00:18:28,891 升入天堂 of the dead to heaven. 338 00:18:28,941 --> 00:18:31,343 其职责是以天平 It was his task to weigh up their sins 339 00:18:31,393 --> 00:18:34,560 衡量善恶功过 and virtues, using his set of scales. 340 00:18:36,067 --> 00:18:38,504 - 这位维京亡者似采取 - It seems as if this departed Viking 341 00:18:38,554 --> 00:18:41,140 双重保险 既备渡资 had got with him belt and braces, 342 00:18:41,190 --> 00:18:42,387 又携象征物 he’d got a coin for the ferryman, 343 00:18:42,437 --> 00:18:43,901 以求吸引 some coins for the ferryman, 344 00:18:43,951 --> 00:18:45,837 大天使米迦勒垂青 and he’d also got the symbol, 345 00:18:45,887 --> 00:18:48,759 百年前出土时 which would make him attractive to 346 00:18:48,809 --> 00:18:51,061 曾被认作商人墓 Saint Michael the Archangel. 347 00:18:51,111 --> 00:18:52,760 但凯文认为种种证据表明 When the discovery was made, 348 00:18:52,810 --> 00:18:54,397 此处应是 more than a hundred years ago, 349 00:18:54,447 --> 00:18:57,697 某位更重要人物的 it was thought to be a merchant’s grave. 350 00:18:57,747 --> 00:18:59,567 长眠之地 But Kevin believes the evidence points 351 00:18:59,617 --> 00:19:01,759 to it being the last resting place 352 00:19:01,809 --> 00:19:04,476 of someone much more important. 353 00:19:05,586 --> 00:19:07,584 - 墓葬规格 - The trappings with which he was, 354 00:19:07,634 --> 00:19:11,053 如此显赫 the burial is associated are of such high status 355 00:19:11,103 --> 00:19:12,761 极可能是 that this seems to me much more likely 356 00:19:12,811 --> 00:19:17,453 当地首领之墓 to have been the burial site of a local leader, 357 00:19:17,503 --> 00:19:19,014 按年代推算 and the local leader who would spring to mind 358 00:19:19,064 --> 00:19:23,231 应是科伦赛的雅尔·吉里 from that very date is um, Jarl Gillie of Colonsay. 359 00:19:24,404 --> 00:19:27,163 若确为雅尔·吉里之墓 Now if it were to be the grave of Jarl Gillie 360 00:19:27,213 --> 00:19:28,938 将格外引人注目 it would be particularly interesting 361 00:19:28,988 --> 00:19:32,776 因其曾孙索默莱德 because his Great Grandson was Somerled 362 00:19:32,826 --> 00:19:35,452 乃群岛领主王朝创立者 who was the founder of the Lordship of the Isles 363 00:19:35,502 --> 00:19:38,865 全球麦克唐纳家族共祖 and the progenitor of every Macdonald on earth. 364 00:19:38,915 --> 00:19:40,015 当真？ - 因此若能 Really? - So it would be extremely 365 00:19:40,065 --> 00:19:43,365 获取墓主遗骨 interesting, if any of these bones were available 366 00:19:43,415 --> 00:19:47,582 比对其DNA与当代 and if anybody could extract DNA, to compare the DNA 367 00:19:48,792 --> 00:19:51,558 麦克唐纳家族基因 of the incumbent of this grave 368 00:19:51,608 --> 00:19:55,052 将极具研究价值 with genuine Macdonald DNA today, 369 00:19:55,102 --> 00:19:56,775 追溯至如此久远年代 it would be a very interesting thing 370 00:19:56,825 --> 00:19:59,349 1880年代的考古技术 if one could go all the way back to that early date. 371 00:19:59,399 --> 00:20:02,515 力有未逮 The techniques of 1882 and 1883 would have been 372 00:20:02,565 --> 00:20:03,982 of limited value. 373 00:20:05,089 --> 00:20:08,888 这处公认极其重要的遗址 It would be a good time for this important grave site, 374 00:20:08,938 --> 00:20:11,131 亟待现代考古学 which is acknowledged as of outstanding importance, 375 00:20:11,181 --> 00:20:14,514 重新检视 to be re-examined by modern archaeology. 376 00:20:15,377 --> 00:20:17,799 这将是个激动人心的尝试 It would be a really exciting thing to try to do. 377 00:20:17,849 --> 00:20:20,738 - 想到曾有维京人 - Well it amazing to think that on this site 378 00:20:20,788 --> 00:20:22,575 - 长眠于此 - 确实 - Yes. - A Viking was laid to rest. 379 00:20:22,625 --> 00:20:24,223 如今其遗物成为 Yes, laid to rest here and now one 380 00:20:24,273 --> 00:20:27,115 爱丁堡新博物馆 of the major displays in the magnificent new museum 381 00:20:27,165 --> 00:20:28,485 重要展品 in Edinburgh. 382 00:20:28,535 --> 00:20:30,163 你认为岛上还有 And do you think there are other graves 383 00:20:30,213 --> 00:20:31,584 待发掘墓葬吗？ yet to be discovered? 384 00:20:31,634 --> 00:20:33,801 科伦赛岛必还藏着 Yes, I'm sure Colonsay has very many more secrets 385 00:20:33,851 --> 00:20:35,004 更多秘密 to reveal. 386 00:20:46,785 --> 00:20:50,235 - 我骑车横穿岛屿 - I'm back on my bike, heading across the island 387 00:20:50,285 --> 00:20:54,452 不得不说骑行实在耗人 and I have to say, all this cycling is thirsty work. 388 00:20:58,438 --> 00:21:00,869 - 常人提起苏格兰岛屿 - Now when most people think of the Scottish islands, 389 00:21:00,919 --> 00:21:04,231 自然联想到——至少我是如此 their minds turn naturally, at least mine does, 390 00:21:04,281 --> 00:21:06,120 威士忌 to thoughts of whisky. 391 00:21:06,170 --> 00:21:10,337 但科伦赛以另一种饮品闻名：啤酒 But on Colonsay they're famous for another drink; beer. 392 00:21:11,850 --> 00:21:15,524 岛居生活需自给自足 Living on an island, you need to be self sufficient, 393 00:21:15,574 --> 00:21:18,463 尤其是生活必需品 especially when it comes to the essentials. 394 00:21:18,513 --> 00:21:19,346 嗨 克里斯 Hi Chris. 395 00:21:20,222 --> 00:21:24,746 我来到科伦赛啤酒厂会见克里斯·尼斯比特 I've come to Colonsay Brewery, to meet Chris Nisbet. 396 00:21:24,796 --> 00:21:27,747 科伦赛居民不过百余人 So the population of Colonsay can't be more 397 00:21:27,797 --> 00:21:29,168 百二十人左右 than about 100, 120. 398 00:21:29,218 --> 00:21:30,320 - 约一百二十人 - 120, yeah 399 00:21:30,370 --> 00:21:33,263 - 但销量肯定不止于此吧？ - But you must be selling more beer than that. 400 00:21:33,313 --> 00:21:36,372 - 当然 夏季时岛上 - Absolutely, I mean the, during the summer months 401 00:21:36,422 --> 00:21:39,223 人口会激增 但主要经济支柱 the population explodes, you know, but the main business 402 00:21:39,273 --> 00:21:40,973 还是旅游业 on the island is tourism. 403 00:21:41,023 --> 00:21:44,533 游客可达四五百人 Upwards of 400, perhaps 500 people on the island, 404 00:21:44,583 --> 00:21:48,932 这就是我们的市场 即便有人不爱喝 so that’s our market and even if people don’t like the beer, 405 00:21:48,982 --> 00:21:51,307 也会带些回去当伴手礼 you know, they’ll take some home anyway, 406 00:21:51,357 --> 00:21:53,507 况且越来越多人 and there's more and more people do like the beer, 407 00:21:53,557 --> 00:21:56,670 喜欢我们的啤酒 这很鼓舞人心 so that’s quite encouraging. 408 00:21:56,720 --> 00:21:59,887 作为全球最小 And since this is the smallest island in the world 409 00:21:59,937 --> 00:22:03,087 自酿啤酒的岛屿 这里堪称 brewing it's own beer, I suppose this truly 410 00:22:03,137 --> 00:22:04,804 微型酒厂的典范 is a micro brewery. 411 00:22:06,073 --> 00:22:10,143 克里斯与两位啤酒爱好者 Chris and two fellow beer lovers set up the brewery 412 00:22:10,193 --> 00:22:13,660 2007年创立酒厂 如今 in 2007 and are now producing around 413 00:22:13,710 --> 00:22:16,543 周产约1700瓶 1,700 bottles a week. 414 00:22:17,873 --> 00:22:19,300 - 这是热水罐 - This is a hot water tank 415 00:22:19,350 --> 00:22:20,359 这是冷水罐 And this is a chilled water tank. 416 00:22:20,409 --> 00:22:21,192 - 明白 - Right. 417 00:22:21,242 --> 00:22:24,033 - 发酵罐在下方—— - The fermenters are down here where the-- 418 00:22:24,083 --> 00:22:25,121 - 这是添加酵母的地方？ - This is where you add the yeast, is it? 419 00:22:25,171 --> 00:22:27,820 - 对 酵母从容器顶部加入 - Yeah, you add the yeast in to the top of these vessels 420 00:22:27,870 --> 00:22:31,191 发酵四到五天 and it sits in there for about four or five days fermenting. 421 00:22:31,241 --> 00:22:34,831 最后阶段急速降温 At the end of that period of time we crash cool it. 422 00:22:34,881 --> 00:22:37,155 - 这是全职工作吗？ - Is this a full time job? 423 00:22:37,205 --> 00:22:41,991 - 目前还是兼职经营 - Um, we still run the brewery as a part time enterprise. 424 00:22:42,041 --> 00:22:44,331 岛上居民大多 We just feel we have so many other jobs 425 00:22:44,381 --> 00:22:47,881 身兼数职 that we do on the island, as most island people do. 426 00:22:47,931 --> 00:22:50,145 - 你还从事什么工作？ - What, what else do you do? 427 00:22:50,195 --> 00:22:52,102 - 志愿消防员 - I'm a volunteer firefighter. 428 00:22:52,152 --> 00:22:52,935 - 了解 - Right. 429 00:22:52,985 --> 00:22:54,839 - 还在机场负责 - And I work at the airport, where we provide 430 00:22:54,889 --> 00:22:59,739 消防保障和飞机进港无线电通讯 fire cover and I do the radio for the aircraft coming in. 431 00:22:59,789 --> 00:23:02,039 都是很有意思的工作 So, yeah, it's all interesting stuff. 432 00:23:02,089 --> 00:23:04,216 若非岛民根本接触不到 Type of jobs you would never ever get unless you lived here, 433 00:23:04,266 --> 00:23:05,440 这类职业 you know. 434 00:23:05,490 --> 00:23:06,751 - 消防员兼酿酒师 - A fireman and a brewer. 435 00:23:06,801 --> 00:23:07,584 - 没错 - Yeah. 436 00:23:07,634 --> 00:23:08,555 - 绝妙组合 - It's quite a good combination. 437 00:23:08,605 --> 00:23:11,135 - 确实相得益彰 - It is, it's an excellent combination. 438 00:23:11,185 --> 00:23:13,112 - 虽起步规模小 - They may have started small, 439 00:23:13,162 --> 00:23:16,484 但胸怀大志 这里酿造的啤酒 but they're thinking big, and the beer produced here 440 00:23:16,534 --> 00:23:19,920 正逐渐获得更广泛认可 is beginning to be appreciated further afield. 441 00:23:19,970 --> 00:23:21,635 为你的健康干杯 Well I’ll drink your good health. 442 00:23:21,685 --> 00:23:23,018 这是IPA啤酒 This is the IPA. 443 00:23:28,762 --> 00:23:30,819 必须说非常醇美 Very fine, I have to say. 444 00:23:30,869 --> 00:23:31,652 不一起喝点？ You not gonna join me? 445 00:23:31,702 --> 00:23:32,485 - 那就来一杯 - 我想 - I think I will. - I think 446 00:23:32,535 --> 00:23:33,318 你不得不喝 you’ll have to. 447 00:23:33,368 --> 00:23:35,018 - 干杯 - Yeah, yeah, cheers. 448 00:23:35,068 --> 00:23:36,278 干杯 Cheers. 449 00:23:36,328 --> 00:23:39,801 - 带着微醺的眩晕感 - With a slightly fuzzy head and a bit of a wobble, 450 00:23:39,851 --> 00:23:42,878 我出发寻找新鲜空气 I set off in search of fresh air, 451 00:23:42,928 --> 00:23:46,515 看来来对了地方 and it appears I've come to the right place. 452 00:23:46,565 --> 00:23:50,428 这里纯净的空气曾被视为 It's pure unpolluted air was once considered to be 453 00:23:50,478 --> 00:23:54,165 科伦赛岛最宝贵的财富 人们盛赞 Colonsay’s most valuable asset and great claims 454 00:23:54,215 --> 00:23:56,776 其健康功效 were made for it's health benefits. 455 00:23:56,826 --> 00:24:00,103 深深呼吸感受下 Mm, just get a blast of that. 456 00:24:00,153 --> 00:24:04,763 1910年有作家记载 经检测 In 1910 one writer noted that analysis has shown 457 00:24:04,813 --> 00:24:08,330 科伦赛空气纯净度 that for purity, the atmosphere of Colonsay 458 00:24:08,380 --> 00:24:10,139 冠绝欧洲 is unexcelled in Europe. 459 00:24:14,505 --> 00:24:17,405 头脑清醒后 我来到岛屿 With a clearer head, I arrive at the southern end 460 00:24:17,455 --> 00:24:22,289 南端 向最终目的地进发 of the island and make my way to my final destination. 461 00:24:22,339 --> 00:24:24,552 请勿骑车前往奥伦赛岛 Do not take bikes to Oronsay. 462 00:24:24,602 --> 00:24:27,305 好吧 步行前往 Oh, fair enough, I’ll walk. 463 00:24:27,355 --> 00:24:29,517 这段险峻的潮汐通道 This involves a tricky crossing 464 00:24:29,567 --> 00:24:32,650 曾让许多访客受困 which has caught out many a visitor. 465 00:24:34,069 --> 00:24:36,932 现在接近低潮 勉强可以 It's almost low tide now and just about possible, 466 00:24:36,982 --> 00:24:40,506 不湿鞋地穿过斯特兰德沙洲 without getting very wet feet, to cross from Colonsay 467 00:24:40,556 --> 00:24:44,382 从科伦赛岛前往奥伦赛岛 to the Island of Oronsay across the Strand. 468 00:24:44,432 --> 00:24:46,832 斯特兰德是退潮时 And the Strand is an area of shell sand 469 00:24:46,882 --> 00:24:48,646 显露的贝壳沙洲 that’s exposed at low tide. 470 00:24:48,696 --> 00:24:51,995 此地潮汐涨落极快 But in these parts the tides come in very, very quickly 471 00:24:52,045 --> 00:24:54,646 必须速战速决 and go out very quickly, so I need to be quick, 472 00:24:54,696 --> 00:24:58,410 否则会被困 得加快脚步了 if I'm not to get cut off, so I better get a move on. 473 00:25:00,700 --> 00:25:03,779 不懂潮汐规律的人 For anyone without an understanding of tides, 474 00:25:03,829 --> 00:25:07,090 穿越此地危机四伏 this is a potentially precarious crossing. 475 00:25:07,140 --> 00:25:10,050 想必多年来无数旅人 I imagine that over the years many a traveler 476 00:25:10,100 --> 00:25:13,303 目睹归路被海水吞没时 has been seized by a sense of rising panic 477 00:25:13,353 --> 00:25:17,029 都陷入过恐慌 as their path is engulfed by the sea. 478 00:25:17,079 --> 00:25:19,279 我事先咨询了 But I've taken the precaution of getting advice 479 00:25:19,329 --> 00:25:22,256 熟悉潮汐的当地人 from someone who knows these tides well. 480 00:25:22,306 --> 00:25:24,942 奥伦赛岛居民邓肯·麦克杜格尔 Oronsay resident Duncan McDougall, 481 00:25:24,992 --> 00:25:28,404 为美国岛主管理全岛 who manages the island on behalf of it's American owner. 482 00:25:28,454 --> 00:25:29,454 你好邓肯 Hiya Duncan. 483 00:25:31,190 --> 00:25:32,098 最近如何？ How are you? 484 00:25:32,148 --> 00:25:32,931 - 欢迎来到奥伦赛 - Welcome to Oronsay. 485 00:25:32,981 --> 00:25:34,608 - 非常感谢 初次到访 - Thank you very much, I've never been to Oronsay before. 486 00:25:34,658 --> 00:25:37,030 - 这里很美 - Oh, it's a beautiful island. 487 00:25:37,080 --> 00:25:39,506 这片斯特兰德沙洲 Now this, this, this Strand here, now that’s a, 488 00:25:39,556 --> 00:25:40,643 是潮汐地貌 a tidal feature. 489 00:25:40,693 --> 00:25:43,683 常有人被困在往返途中吗？ Do people get stuck going backwards and forwards? 490 00:25:43,733 --> 00:25:45,981 - 时有发生 - Yes, it happens now and again. 491 00:25:46,031 --> 00:25:48,607 不按指定路线走的人 You know, folk that don’t follow the track. 492 00:25:48,657 --> 00:25:50,416 - 偏离了正道 - Right, they don’t stay to the straight and narrow. 493 00:25:50,466 --> 00:25:52,839 - 自以为是的 - Yeah, they, they think they know better 494 00:25:52,889 --> 00:25:54,254 往往就困住了 and then they're, they're stuck. 495 00:25:54,304 --> 00:25:57,714 运气好能碰上农民救援 And if they're lucky the farmer, you know, tow them out, 496 00:25:57,764 --> 00:25:58,547 若来得及 if there's time. 497 00:25:58,597 --> 00:26:02,597 否则只能等下次退潮 If not, they're landed for, ‘til the next tide. 498 00:26:03,711 --> 00:26:06,561 奥伦赛岛仅两平方英里 Oronsay covers just two square miles, 499 00:26:06,611 --> 00:26:10,398 被划为特别保护区 and has been designated as a special protection area. 500 00:26:10,448 --> 00:26:12,772 虽属私人所有 And although it's privately owned, 501 00:26:12,822 --> 00:26:16,008 英国皇家鸟类保护协会 the RSPB play an important part in looking 502 00:26:16,058 --> 00:26:18,641 协助保护庞大鸟群 after the huge bird population. 503 00:26:19,698 --> 00:26:22,036 目前岛上有多少居民？ How many people stay on the island now then? 504 00:26:22,086 --> 00:26:24,735 - 常驻五口人 - There's about five of us are resident 505 00:26:24,785 --> 00:26:29,283 加上皇家鸟类保护协会 and then there's RSPB have volunteers 506 00:26:29,333 --> 00:26:30,947 轮值的志愿者 that come and go, 507 00:26:30,997 --> 00:26:33,320 夏季能有十人 so during the summer there can be ten of us, 508 00:26:33,370 --> 00:26:34,483 共同生活 you know, living on the island. 509 00:26:34,533 --> 00:26:35,460 - 挺热闹啊？ - Quite crowded then, is it? 510 00:26:35,510 --> 00:26:38,197 确实 Yes, aye. 511 00:26:38,247 --> 00:26:40,117 - 推荐先去哪里？ - Where would you recommend to go first? 512 00:26:40,167 --> 00:26:41,317 - 修道院遗址 - Well up to the Priory. 513 00:26:41,367 --> 00:26:42,275 好的 Right. 514 00:26:42,325 --> 00:26:44,645 - 是主要景点 - That, that’s the big attraction. 515 00:26:44,695 --> 00:26:45,478 - 非常感谢 - Thanks very much. 516 00:26:45,528 --> 00:26:46,311 - 不客气 - Okay. 517 00:26:46,361 --> 00:26:47,354 - 祝好 - 随时效劳 - Cheers. - No problem. 518 00:26:47,404 --> 00:26:48,877 修道院是往这个方向吗？ It's up this way, is it, the Priory? 519 00:26:48,927 --> 00:26:50,977 对 沿这条路直走 Yes, just follow the road. 520 00:26:51,027 --> 00:26:54,240 - "奥伦赛"之名源起难考 - The origin of the name Oronsay is uncertain. 521 00:26:54,290 --> 00:26:57,240 一说源自古挪威语 Some say it's derived from the old Norse word 522 00:26:57,290 --> 00:27:00,316 "潮汐岛" 另说为纪念 for a tidal island, others believe it's named 523 00:27:00,366 --> 00:27:03,526 六世纪在此建修道院的 after Saint Oron, who founded a monastery here 524 00:27:03,576 --> 00:27:05,409 圣奥伦 In the sixth century. 525 00:27:08,976 --> 00:27:13,110 这宏伟遗迹的重要性 This magnificent ruin is second only to Iona Abbey 526 00:27:13,160 --> 00:27:14,586 仅次于爱奥纳修道院 in importance. 527 00:27:14,636 --> 00:27:16,563 确是圣地 It really is a special place. 528 00:27:20,649 --> 00:27:23,136 关于圣奥伦及其原始修道院 There is very little known about Saint Oron, 529 00:27:23,186 --> 00:27:27,116 史料寥寥 中世纪时 or his original monastery which was replaced by this priory 530 00:27:27,166 --> 00:27:28,966 原址重建了这座修道院 in the Middle Ages. 531 00:27:29,016 --> 00:27:32,465 漫步废墟间 我恍然感知 But somehow, exploring these ruins, I get a sense 532 00:27:32,515 --> 00:27:36,039 此岛不仅是圣徒传奇人生中 that this island was much more than a stepping stone 533 00:27:36,089 --> 00:27:38,089 的过站 in his remarkable life. 534 00:27:40,389 --> 00:27:42,639 与圣科伦巴及多数 Like Saint Columba and nearly all the figures 535 00:27:42,689 --> 00:27:46,476 早期凯尔特教会圣徒相同 of the early Celtic church, Oron came from Ireland, 536 00:27:46,526 --> 00:27:49,239 奥伦来自爱尔兰 其钟情此地的 and it's easy to see why he was attracted here; 537 00:27:49,289 --> 00:27:51,687 缘由显而易见： the beauty and tranquility of the island made it 538 00:27:51,737 --> 00:27:55,891 绝美的岛屿静土 正是灵修圣地 the perfect base for his spiritual work. 539 00:27:55,941 --> 00:27:59,111 从这类偏远荒岛 From remote, windswept islands like these, 540 00:27:59,161 --> 00:28:01,634 修士们传播教义 the monks spread their message, 541 00:28:01,684 --> 00:28:04,663 追随其足迹让我深切体会到 and following in their footsteps has made me appreciate 542 00:28:04,713 --> 00:28:08,880 这些岛屿如何启迪早期传教士 how these islands inspired those early missionaries. 543 00:28:10,523 --> 00:28:12,744 这片废墟恰是我 These ruins are an appropriate place for me 544 00:28:12,794 --> 00:28:15,507 结束圣岛朝圣的终点 to end my island pilgrimage. 545 00:28:15,557 --> 00:28:18,343 愿多作停留 静观日落 I’d love to stay longer, maybe watch the sun go down, 546 00:28:18,393 --> 00:28:19,967 若雨能停歇 if it ever stops raining. 547 00:28:20,017 --> 00:28:23,173 但为免被涨潮所困 But, if I don’t want to get cut off by the incoming tide, 548 00:28:23,223 --> 00:28:25,845 须即刻穿越斯特兰德沙洲 I need to make tracks across the Strand. 549 00:28:25,895 --> 00:28:29,907 就此告别圣奥伦与其圣岛 So it's goodbye Saint Oron and his holy isle. 550 00:28:32,570 --> 00:28:36,433 下段旅程将前往东海岸 My next Grand Tour takes me to the east coast, 551 00:28:36,483 --> 00:28:40,400 探访福斯湾的堡垒群岛 and the fortress islands of the Firth of Forth.