﻿1  
00:00:03,072 --> 00:00:04,891  
苏格兰自豪地拥有  
Scotland proudly boasts  

2  
00:00:04,941 --> 00:00:09,870  
世界上最壮观的一些岛屿。  
some of the most spectacular islands to be found anywhere.  

3  
00:00:09,920 --> 00:00:12,158  
仅赫布里底群岛之中  
Amongst the Hebridean Islands alone  

4  
00:00:12,208 --> 00:00:13,781  
就有内赫布里底群岛，  
we’ve got the Inner Isles,  

5  
00:00:13,831 --> 00:00:16,870  
外赫布里底群岛和西部群岛，  
the Outer Isles and the Western Isles,  

6  
00:00:16,920 --> 00:00:19,222  
还有一组岛屿  
and we’ve also got a group of islands  

7  
00:00:19,272 --> 00:00:22,189  
以其奇特的名字而闻名。  
best known for their unusual names.  

8  
00:00:24,191 --> 00:00:26,011  
我还是个小学生时  
I was a wee boy at primary school  

9  
00:00:26,061 --> 00:00:28,299  
第一次听说了小岛群  
where I first heard of the Small Isles  

10  
00:00:28,349 --> 00:00:30,079  
和它们疯狂的名字；  
and their crazy names;  

11  
00:00:30,129 --> 00:00:31,712  
马岛、艾格岛和朗姆岛，  
Muck, Eigg and Rum,  

12  
00:00:32,661 --> 00:00:35,186  
但我不相信这些地方真的存在  
but I didn’t believe they could be real places  

13  
00:00:35,236 --> 00:00:37,401  
直到父亲在地图上指出它们的位置  
until my father showed me where they were  

14  
00:00:37,451 --> 00:00:39,150  
我才确信无疑。  
on a map and proved it.  

15  
00:00:39,200 --> 00:00:41,664  
而现在，它们就在眼前。  
And now, here they are.  

16  
00:00:45,965 --> 00:00:48,413  
我一直对岛屿充满向往，  
I've always been drawn to islands,  

17  
00:00:48,463 --> 00:00:52,024  
在这个系列中，我将探索  
and in this series I'm setting out to discover the magic  

18  
00:00:52,074 --> 00:00:55,241  
苏格兰神奇岛屿宝藏的魅力。  
of Scotland’s amazing island riches.  

19  
00:00:58,172 --> 00:01:01,264  
苏格兰近海分布着近300座岛屿  
There are nearly 300 offshore islands  

20  
00:01:01,314 --> 00:01:05,481  
散落在蜿蜒6000英里的海岸线上，  
scattered around Scotland’s 6,000 convoluted miles of coast,  

21  
00:01:06,450 --> 00:01:09,867  
形态大小各异。  
and they come in all shapes and sizes.  

22  
00:01:12,173 --> 00:01:14,915  
这次环岛之旅中我将探访的岛屿  
The islands I’ll be visiting in this Grand Tour  

23  
00:01:14,965 --> 00:01:19,132  
或许很小，但各具特色。  
may be small, but each offers something very different.  

24  
00:01:38,530 --> 00:01:41,800  
小岛群属于内赫布里底群岛的一部分  
The Small Isles are part of the Inner Hebrides  

25  
00:01:41,850 --> 00:01:44,347  
位于苏格兰西海岸外  
and lie in the often wild waters  

26  
00:01:44,397 --> 00:01:47,408  
时常风急浪高的水域中。  
off the west coast of Scotland.  

27  
00:01:47,458 --> 00:01:49,678  
我的旅程将从大陆出发  
My journey will take me from the mainland  

28  
00:01:49,728 --> 00:01:51,968  
前往小巧的马岛。  
to the tiny island of Muck.  

29  
00:01:52,018 --> 00:01:54,877  
从那里前往荒凉的朗姆岛  
From there, I'm heading to the wilderness of Rum  

30  
00:01:54,927 --> 00:01:57,476  
最后抵达艾格岛  
and finally, arriving on Eigg  

31  
00:01:57,526 --> 00:02:00,109  
参加一场特别的庆典。  
for a very special celebration.  

32  
00:02:06,088 --> 00:02:08,307  
那就是马岛。  
That is the Island of Muck.  

33  
00:02:08,357 --> 00:02:11,059  
它是小岛群中最小的一个，  
It's the smallest of the Small Isles,  

34  
00:02:11,109 --> 00:02:13,259  
根据地图显示  
and according to my map it's just  

35  
00:02:13,309 --> 00:02:15,145  
全长仅3.5公里  
three and a half kilometres long  

36  
00:02:15,195 --> 00:02:19,238  
最窄处不足一公里宽。  
and it's just less than a kilometer wide at it's narrowest.  

37  
00:02:19,288 --> 00:02:23,455  
然而这片弹丸之地却是人们称之为家的地方。  
Yet this tiny scrap of land is a place people call home.  

38  
00:02:25,608 --> 00:02:28,459  
上次我乘渡轮去小岛群  
The last time I took a ferry to the Small Isles  

39  
00:02:28,509 --> 00:02:30,026  
还是学生时代。  
I was a student.  

40  
00:02:30,076 --> 00:02:32,147  
那是上世纪80年代  
That was back in the 1980s  

41  
00:02:32,197 --> 00:02:35,106  
当时渡轮并不靠岸。  
and the ferry didn’t dock in those days.  

42  
00:02:35,156 --> 00:02:36,855  
码头不够大，  
The piers weren’t big enough,  

43  
00:02:36,905 --> 00:02:39,118  
乘客和货物需换乘小船  
so passengers and goods were transferred  

44  
00:02:39,168 --> 00:02:43,238  
完成最后几码的靠岸路程。  
into an open boat for the last few yards to the shore.  

45  
00:02:43,288 --> 00:02:46,667  
我依稀记得要心惊胆战地爬下梯子  
I seem to remember a hair raising climb down a ladder  

46  
00:02:46,717 --> 00:02:50,384  
跳进下方颠簸的小船。  
into a small boat that was bobbing below.  

47  
00:02:51,256 --> 00:02:55,423  
很高兴现在不用再表演这种特技了。  
It's good to see that things are less acrobatic now.  

48  
00:02:57,186 --> 00:03:00,276  
这里或许偏远难至，  
It may be remote and difficult to get to,  

49  
00:03:00,326 --> 00:03:02,598  
但有证据表明人类自石器时代  
but there's evidence that people have lived here  

50  
00:03:02,648 --> 00:03:05,598  
就在马岛定居。  
on Muck since the Stone Age.  

51  
00:03:05,648 --> 00:03:07,677  
这里曾是基督教隐士、  
It was home to Christian hermits,  

52  
00:03:07,727 --> 00:03:10,787  
维京入侵者和麦克莱恩氏族的地盘，  
Viking invaders and the Clan Maclean,  

53  
00:03:10,837 --> 00:03:13,358  
后来落入私人手中  
before it eventually fell into private hands  

54  
00:03:13,408 --> 00:03:16,318  
像苏格兰大部分地区一样由地主  
and was owned and run, like much of Scotland,  

55  
00:03:16,368 --> 00:03:18,947  
或称领主掌管。  
by a landlord or laird.  

56  
00:03:18,997 --> 00:03:22,166  
如今依然如此。  
And that’s still the case today.  

57  
00:03:22,216 --> 00:03:25,518  
当著名文人约翰逊博士  
When the celebrated man of letters, Doctor Johnson,  

58  
00:03:25,568 --> 00:03:28,726  
1773年造访赫布里底群岛时，  
visited the Hebrides in 1773,  

59  
00:03:28,776 --> 00:03:32,696  
曾与初代马岛勋爵夫妇共进晚餐。  
he dined with the original Lord and Lady Muck.  

60  
00:03:32,746 --> 00:03:36,464  
据说这位马岛勋爵对头衔颇为不适  
Now it seems that Lord Muck was, well, uncomfortable  

61  
00:03:36,514 --> 00:03:39,696  
曾试图将岛名改为修士岛  
with the title and tried to change the name of the island  

62  
00:03:39,746 --> 00:03:43,099  
但未能流传开来  
to Monk Island, but it didn’t catch  

63  
00:03:43,149 --> 00:03:45,732  
马岛之名还是保留了下来。  
and Muck stuck, as they say.  

64  
00:03:50,442 --> 00:03:54,275  
1895年麦克尤恩家族买下马岛。  
Muck was bought in 1895 by the MacEwan Family.  

65  
00:03:55,261 --> 00:03:59,090  
如今岛上约有38位居民。  
Today the island has a population of about 38.  

66  
00:03:59,140 --> 00:04:00,352  
下午好，劳伦斯。  
Afternoon, Lawrence.  

67  
00:04:00,402 --> 00:04:02,080  
-下午好，保罗。  
- Good afternoon Paul.  

68  
00:04:02,130 --> 00:04:05,371  
-我来拜访岛主劳伦斯·麦克尤恩。  
- I've come to meet it's Laird, Lawrence MacEwan.  

69  
00:04:05,421 --> 00:04:07,811  
劳伦斯，我不太确定  
Now Lawrence, um, I'm not entirely sure  

70  
00:04:07,861 --> 00:04:10,598  
该如何称呼您，是马岛勋爵  
how I should address you, are, are you Lord Muck  

71  
00:04:10,648 --> 00:04:12,580  
还是马岛领主？  
or the Laird of Muck?  

72  
00:04:12,630 --> 00:04:15,160  
-家父一直被称为领主，  
- Um, my father was always called the Laird,  

73  
00:04:15,210 --> 00:04:17,755  
但我对这个称呼  
but I've let that lie, er,  

74  
00:04:17,805 --> 00:04:20,394  
看得很淡。  
sit fairly gently in my shoulders.  

75  
00:04:20,444 --> 00:04:22,284  
我更愿意做个农夫。  
I’d rather be a farmer.  

76  
00:04:22,334 --> 00:04:24,634  
-小时候在学校里  
- Did you ever get jibed when you were a kid at school,  

77  
00:04:24,684 --> 00:04:25,467  
被人嘲笑是马岛勋爵吗？  
being Lord Muck?  

78  
00:04:25,517 --> 00:04:27,538  
-确实有过。  
- I certainly did, yes.  

79  
00:04:27,588 --> 00:04:29,122  
没错，经常被取笑。  
Yes, I got teased a lot.  

80  
00:04:29,172 --> 00:04:31,112  
作为领主，这里是个好地方。  
It's a grand place to be a laird of.  

81  
00:04:31,162 --> 00:04:33,245  
确实如此。  
It is, yes.  

82  
00:04:35,353 --> 00:04:38,320  
身为领主意味着你可以决定  
Being the laird means that you get to decide  

83  
00:04:38,370 --> 00:04:40,469  
谁能来岛上居住，  
who can come and live on the island,  

84  
00:04:40,519 --> 00:04:44,686  
因为麦克尤恩家族拥有整座马岛及岛上所有房屋。  
as the MacEwan Family own all of Muck, and the homes on it.  

85  
00:04:46,429 --> 00:04:49,720  
搬来此地的机会并不多，  
And opportunities to move here don’t come up very often,  

86  
00:04:49,770 --> 00:04:53,937  
因为岛上只有十几栋可用房屋。  
as there are only a dozen or so houses available.  

87  
00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:57,771  
有些家庭这些年来而复去，  
Some families have come and gone over the years,  

88  
00:04:57,821 --> 00:05:01,291  
但劳伦斯一生都生活在这里。  
but Lawrence has lived here his whole life.  

89  
00:05:01,341 --> 00:05:02,694  
离开岛上的感觉如何？  
What's it like when you leave the island?  

90  
00:05:02,744 --> 00:05:03,527  
哦！  
Oh!  

91  
00:05:03,577 --> 00:05:04,741  
你会...会感到震惊吗？  
Are you sho, are you shocked by er,  

92  
00:05:04,791 --> 00:05:06,189  
呃...是的。  
Er, well er, yes.  

93  
00:05:06,239 --> 00:05:07,572  
记得有次  
Yes, I remember,  

94  
00:05:09,328 --> 00:05:12,078  
我坐火车去滑铁卢  
once I was on a train to Waterloo  

95  
00:05:13,090 --> 00:05:15,992  
站在自动扶梯顶端  
and I stood at the top of the escalator,  

96  
00:05:16,042 --> 00:05:18,459  
观察了13分钟  
and I watched for 13 minutes,  

97  
00:05:19,980 --> 00:05:23,140  
人流如潮水般永不停歇  
and it was a constant flood of people, never ending,  

98  
00:05:23,190 --> 00:05:26,490  
就像逆流而上的河流。  
like a river flowing up an escalator.  

99  
00:05:26,540 --> 00:05:29,541  
这让我深刻意识到  
It was very, just interesting to reflect  

100  
00:05:29,591 --> 00:05:33,021  
生活在一个人人陌生  
and living place where you know nobody,  

101  
00:05:33,071 --> 00:05:34,738  
却人潮汹涌的地方。  
but there's so many people.  

102  
00:05:34,788 --> 00:05:36,520  
这里我们认识每个人  
Here we know everybody  

103  
00:05:36,570 --> 00:05:39,069  
几乎见不到陌生人。  
and hardly see a stranger.  

104  
00:05:39,119 --> 00:05:40,747  
这是好事还是坏事？  
Is that a good thing or a bad thing?  

105  
00:05:40,797 --> 00:05:44,964  
作为对比体验很不错。  
I think for a contrast it's very nice.  

106  
00:05:48,738 --> 00:05:51,007  
不得不说劳伦斯  
I have to say that Lawrence is very different  

107  
00:05:51,057 --> 00:05:53,969  
与我印象中的领主截然不同。  
from what I expected a laird to be.  

108  
00:05:54,019 --> 00:05:56,169  
没有架子  
There's no airs and graces  

109  
00:05:56,219 --> 00:05:58,886  
就是个朴实的农夫。  
He's very much a working farmer.  

110  
00:06:00,751 --> 00:06:02,150  
爬上这里很值得  
Well it's certainly worth the effort coming up here,  

111  
00:06:02,200 --> 00:06:02,983  
对吧？  
isn’t it?  

112  
00:06:03,033 --> 00:06:05,201  
绝对令人惊叹。  
Yes, absolutely fantastic.  

113  
00:06:05,251 --> 00:06:08,681  
劳伦斯显然深爱这座小岛  
Lawrence clearly loves this small island  

114  
00:06:08,731 --> 00:06:11,468  
原因显而易见。  
and it's not hard to see why.  

115  
00:06:11,518 --> 00:06:13,489  
这是你的领地。  
This is your domain.  

116  
00:06:13,539 --> 00:06:15,970  
目之所及皆为你所有。  
You're Lord of everything you survey here.  

117  
00:06:15,970 --> 00:06:17,862  
拥有整座岛是什么感觉？  
What's it like owning an island?  

118  
00:06:17,912 --> 00:06:19,369  
-我不会早上醒来  
- I don’t get up in the morning  

119  
00:06:19,419 --> 00:06:21,630  
感叹"拥有这些多美好"。  
and think isn’t it wonderful, I own this.  

120  
00:06:21,680 --> 00:06:25,538  
我只是短暂停留的过客。  
I'm just here for a short, short period.  

121  
00:06:25,588 --> 00:06:29,110  
不会太当真地认为它属于我。  
I don’t take the fact that it's mine too seriously.  

122  
00:06:29,160 --> 00:06:32,059  
我觉得它属于每个岛民。  
I think it belongs to everybody who lives on it.  

123  
00:06:32,109 --> 00:06:33,317  
劳伦斯，住在这里  
Well I think you're a very lucky man,  

124  
00:06:33,367 --> 00:06:34,965  
你真的很幸运。  
Lawrence, living here.  

125  
00:06:35,015 --> 00:06:38,569  
很高兴你来访。  
Well it's nice to have you here.  

126  
00:06:38,619 --> 00:06:40,202  
-这景色太棒了！  
- And what a view!  

127  
00:06:42,387 --> 00:06:45,547  
麦克尤恩家族管理马岛的方式很成功  
The way the MacEwans run Muck seems to work,  

128  
00:06:45,597 --> 00:06:47,554  
但赫布里底群岛的土地所有权历史  
but the history of land ownership  

129  
00:06:47,604 --> 00:06:51,755  
并非总是这么美好。  
has not always been a happy one in the Hebrides.  

130  
00:06:51,805 --> 00:06:53,985  
我的下一站目的地  
And it's certainly a very different story  

131  
00:06:54,035 --> 00:06:56,498  
朗姆岛  
at my next destination,  

132  
00:06:56,548 --> 00:06:58,048  
就截然不同。  
the Isle of Rum.

133  
00:07:02,172 --> 00:07:05,074  
维京人凭借其著名的航海技术  
It was the Viking’s renowned seafaring skills  

134  
00:07:05,124 --> 00:07:07,674  
于9世纪初来到这些岛屿。  
which brought them to these islands at the start  

135  
00:07:07,724 --> 00:07:09,391  
of the 9th century.  

136  
00:07:11,343 --> 00:07:13,622  
我身后就是朗姆岛  
That’s the Island of Rum behind me  

137  
00:07:13,672 --> 00:07:15,942  
那些嶙峋的奇峰  
and those extraordinary rugged mountains  

138  
00:07:15,992 --> 00:07:18,393  
构成了岛上的标志性天际线，  
form the island’s signature skyline,  

139  
00:07:18,443 --> 00:07:20,984  
这些山峰还有着恢弘的名字。  
and they’ve got heroic names too, these peaks.  

140  
00:07:21,034 --> 00:07:24,624  
阿斯凯瓦尔峰、特罗拉瓦尔峰和哈利瓦尔峰，  
There’s Askival, there's Trollaval and Hallival,  

141  
00:07:24,674 --> 00:07:27,173  
由统治赫布里底群岛时期的维京人  
named by the Vikings when they ruled  

142  
00:07:27,223 --> 00:07:29,390  
所命名。  
this part of the Hebrides.  

143  
00:07:32,986 --> 00:07:36,021  
与马岛相比，朗姆岛更加荒蛮，  
Compared to Muck, Rum, is wilder,  

144  
00:07:36,071 --> 00:07:38,404  
地势更崎岖，面积也大得多。  
more rugged and much bigger.  

145  
00:07:40,684 --> 00:07:45,125  
这座岛曾居住着400位岛民。  
This was an island which was once home to 400 people.  

146  
00:07:45,175 --> 00:07:47,504  
但当岛民被迫离开后，  
But when the islanders were forced to leave,  

147  
00:07:47,554 --> 00:07:50,616  
这里先成了大型牧羊场  
it became first an enormous sheep farm  

148  
00:07:50,666 --> 00:07:53,704  
后又成为维多利亚时代富豪们  
and then a playground for rich Victorians  

149  
00:07:53,754 --> 00:07:56,671  
狩猎垂钓的游乐场。  
who came here to shoot and fish.  

150  
00:07:57,506 --> 00:08:01,673  
作家兼地质学家休·米勒1844年曾到访此地。  
Writer and geologist, Hugh Miller, visited here in 1844.  

151  
00:08:03,495 --> 00:08:07,473  
"极目远眺不见人烟  
"In the entire prospect not a man nor a man’s dwelling  

152  
00:08:07,523 --> 00:08:09,264  
"房屋踪迹。  
"could the eye command.  

153  
00:08:09,314 --> 00:08:12,683  
"这是一幅没有人物点缀的风景。  
"The landscape was one without figures.  

154  
00:08:12,733 --> 00:08:15,104  
"我不太欣赏如此彻底的  
"I do not much like extermination  

155  
00:08:15,154 --> 00:08:17,487  
"种族清洗。"  
"carried out so thoroughly."  

156  
00:08:19,765 --> 00:08:23,384  
但诡异的是，在这座空旷的巨岛上，  
But bizarrely, here on this vast, empty island,  

157  
00:08:23,434 --> 00:08:27,601  
迎接游客的却是格格不入的景象。  
visitors are greeted with a somewhat incongruous sight.  

158  
00:08:30,002 --> 00:08:34,169  
这座宏伟的贵族府邸  
It's almost well, surreal really, this vast baronial pile  

159  
00:08:35,222 --> 00:08:38,475  
金洛赫城堡堪称超现实的存在  
is Kinloch Castle and it didn’t exist at all  

160  
00:08:38,525 --> 00:08:42,134  
直到千万富翁实业家乔治·布洛  
until multimillionaire industrialist, George Bullough,  

161  
00:08:42,184 --> 00:08:46,195  
将其作为岛国核心建筑打造  
had it built as the centerpiece for his island kingdom,  

162  
00:08:46,245 --> 00:08:49,744  
他原以为基业能世代延续。  
which he thought was going to last for generations.  

163  
00:08:49,794 --> 00:08:51,044  
但事与愿违。  
But it didn’t.  

164  
00:08:54,114 --> 00:08:55,995  
布洛家族靠英格兰北部  
The Bullough Family made their money  

165  
00:08:56,045 --> 00:08:59,235  
纺织业发家，  
from the textile industry in the north of England,  

166  
00:08:59,285 --> 00:09:02,995  
如同19世纪许多富豪实业家，  
and like many wealthy industrialists of the 19th century,  

167  
00:09:03,045 --> 00:09:06,878  
在苏格兰置办狩猎庄园是身份标配。  
a sporting estate in Scotland was de rigueur.  

168  
00:09:08,696 --> 00:09:10,986  
欢迎来到金洛赫城堡。  
Hi, welcome to Kinloch Castle.  

169  
00:09:11,036 --> 00:09:13,029  
今天的向导是苏格兰自然遗产署的  
My guide today is Abby Dudgeon  

170  
00:09:13,079 --> 00:09:16,081  
艾比·达吉恩。  
of Scottish Natural Heritage.  

171  
00:09:16,131 --> 00:09:19,280  
不得不说这门厅极尽奢华。  
It's a very sumptuous looking entrance hall, I have to say.  

172  
00:09:19,330 --> 00:09:22,022  
- 画像上是来自兰开夏郡阿克灵顿的  
- Yes, George Bullough in the painting up the top here.  

173  
00:09:22,072 --> 00:09:23,520  
乔治·布洛  
From Accrington in Lancashire, er,  

174  
00:09:23,570 --> 00:09:26,584  
他1897年建造了这座城堡。  
he built the castle in 1897.  

175  
00:09:26,634 --> 00:09:28,384  
据说是当时世界首富之一。  
Was said to be one of the richest men in the world.  

176  
00:09:28,434 --> 00:09:29,974  
从父亲手中继承此岛。  
Inherited this island from his father.  

177  
00:09:30,024 --> 00:09:32,512  
乔治决定建造梦想城堡  
And George decided he wanted to build his dream castle,  

178  
00:09:32,562 --> 00:09:34,014  
于是付诸实践。  
so that’s what he did.  

179  
00:09:34,064 --> 00:09:35,434  
可谓不惜工本？  
So no expense spared then?  

180  
00:09:35,484 --> 00:09:36,267  
确实不惜工本。  
No expense spared.  

181  
00:09:36,317 --> 00:09:38,583  
耗资约25万英镑建造  
It cost him about 250,000 pounds to build it,  

182  
00:09:38,633 --> 00:09:40,297  
相当于现今1500万英镑。  
which nowadays would be about 15 million pounds.  

183  
00:09:40,347 --> 00:09:41,130  
约1500万英镑？  
About 15 million pounds?  

184  
00:09:41,180 --> 00:09:42,826  
- 是的 - 堪称恢弘。  
- Yeah. - It's very grand, I’d say.  

185  
00:09:42,876 --> 00:09:45,447  
确实如此。  
It's is, yes.  

186  
00:09:45,497 --> 00:09:48,808  
精美的红砂岩从180英里外的阿伦岛运来，  
The beautiful red sandstone was shipped from Arran,  

187  
00:09:48,858 --> 00:09:52,608  
300名工匠耗时三年多  
180 miles away, and it took a team of 300 men  

188  
00:09:53,859 --> 00:09:55,078  
将乔治的幻想设计  
just over three years  

189  
00:09:55,128 --> 00:09:59,295  
变为现实。  
to turn George’s fantasy design into a reality.  

190  
00:10:01,051 --> 00:10:03,380  
在一战前的辉煌十年间，  
For a glittering decade before the Great War,  

191  
00:10:03,430 --> 00:10:05,315  
美梦成真。  
the dream came true.  

192  
00:10:05,365 --> 00:10:08,096  
苏格兰工匠的精湛工艺，  
The finest craftsmanship of Scottish workmen,  

193  
00:10:08,146 --> 00:10:10,515  
顶级奢华的家具陈设，  
the best furniture and fittings that money could buy,  

194  
00:10:10,565 --> 00:10:13,484  
从实橡木镶板到丝绸壁挂，  
from solid oak paneling or silk wall hangings,  

195  
00:10:13,534 --> 00:10:15,675  
再到施坦威音乐会三角钢琴，  
to the Steinway Concert Grand,  

196  
00:10:15,725 --> 00:10:17,336  
无不彰显着莫妮卡夫人  
all made life more elegant  

197  
00:10:17,386 --> 00:10:20,887  
优雅精致的生活。  
and sophisticated for Lady Monica.  

198  
00:10:20,937 --> 00:10:24,946  
1903年，乔治迎娶社交名媛  
In 1903, George married society beauty,  

199  
00:10:24,996 --> 00:10:28,283  
莫妮卡·莉莉·德拉帕斯图尔，  
Monique Lily de la Pasture, and her influence  

200  
00:10:28,333 --> 00:10:31,166  
她对宅邸的影响随处可见。  
on this house can clearly be seen.  

201  
00:10:33,246 --> 00:10:35,524  
多么精美的卧室。  
What a beautiful bedroom.  

202  
00:10:35,574 --> 00:10:38,065  
这是莫妮卡夫人的卧室。  
Er, so yes, this was Lady Monica's bedroom.  

203  
00:10:38,115 --> 00:10:39,225  
这是她的房间？  
This was her room?  

204  
00:10:39,275 --> 00:10:40,058  
- 是的  
- Yes.  

205  
00:10:40,108 --> 00:10:40,891  
- 完全看不出男主人的痕迹？  
- So no sense of him here at all?  

206  
00:10:40,941 --> 00:10:44,059  
- 他实际住在城堡另一侧  
- No, so he actually lived on the other side of the castle  

207  
00:10:44,109 --> 00:10:45,656  
她和宾客住这边  
and so she’d stay here and her guests  

208  
00:10:45,706 --> 00:10:47,493  
乔治在另一侧。  
would stay on this side as well, um,  

209  
00:10:47,543 --> 00:10:49,216  
and George’s on the other side.  

210  
00:10:49,266 --> 00:10:51,576  
- 城堡存在性别分区  
- So there's a kind of sexual divide  

211  
00:10:51,626 --> 00:10:52,743  
男宾一侧女宾一侧，  
running through the castle,  

212  
00:10:52,793 --> 00:10:55,256  
the men on one side and the women on the other.  

213  
00:10:55,306 --> 00:10:57,375  
但谁说她的宾客都是女性呢？  
Who’s to say her guests were all women though?  

214  
00:10:57,425 --> 00:10:58,295  
- 哦，明白了  
- Oh, I see.  

215  
00:10:58,345 --> 00:11:00,383  
- 所以她有些风流韵事？  
So she had a bit of a reputation then, did she?  

216  
00:11:00,433 --> 00:11:02,629  
- 确实风评不佳  
- Er, she did have a reputation, yes,  

217  
00:11:02,679 --> 00:11:04,994  
真假难辨，流言纷飞  
whether it's true or not, er, a lot of rumors.  

218  
00:11:05,044 --> 00:11:07,786  
据说有多段婚外情。  
She was said to have had affairs.  

219  
00:11:07,836 --> 00:11:09,746  
这段婚姻是出于爱情  
Whether it was a marriage of love  

220  
00:11:09,796 --> 00:11:10,809  
还是利益结合，  
or a marriage of convenience,  

221  
00:11:10,859 --> 00:11:13,050  
我倾向后者。  
I’d go with the convenience.  

222  
00:11:18,329 --> 00:11:19,898  
布洛夫妇为款待宾客  
No expense was spared  

223  
00:11:19,948 --> 00:11:21,559  
极尽奢华之能事。  
to provide for the entertainment  

224  
00:11:21,609 --> 00:11:24,859  
and comfort of the Bulloughs’ guests.  

225  
00:11:26,353 --> 00:11:28,903  
值得一提的是，这里是苏格兰首批  
Remarkably, this was one of the first houses  

226  
00:11:28,953 --> 00:11:31,500  
配备电灯  
in Scotland to have electric light  

227  
00:11:31,550 --> 00:11:35,743  
和先进管道系统的宅邸之一。  
and a state of the art plumbing system.  

228  
00:11:35,793 --> 00:11:38,423  
最极致的奢华莫过于  
Perhaps the ultimate in luxury was to soak away  

229  
00:11:38,473 --> 00:11:41,604  
在精心设计的复合式淋浴间  
the self imposed hardships of a day’s stalking on the hill  

230  
00:11:41,654 --> 00:11:44,604  
洗去山中狩猎的疲惫，  
in the most elaborate shower bath ever invented,  

231  
00:11:44,654 --> 00:11:47,444  
喷淋、花洒与冲洗功能结合，  
a combination of spray, shower and douche,  

232  
00:11:47,494 --> 00:11:49,524  
能从各方位同时  
designed to soothe the tired sportsman  

233  
00:11:49,574 --> 00:11:52,157  
舒缓运动后的倦意。  
from every direction at once.  

234  
00:11:54,953 --> 00:11:58,383  
乔治自诩为狩猎领主，  
So George saw himself as the Sporting Laird,  

235  
00:11:58,433 --> 00:11:59,462  
坐拥众多仆从  
able to live in Rum,  

236  
00:11:59,512 --> 00:12:01,604  
在朗姆岛过着  
with of course the help of many servants,  

237  
00:12:01,654 --> 00:12:04,573  
典型富豪绅士的生活。  
in the true style of a gentleman of means.  

238  
00:12:04,623 --> 00:12:07,014  
偏远不成障碍，  
The remoteness was to be no obstacle,  

239  
00:12:07,064 --> 00:12:10,193  
城堡不仅配备考究家具，  
the castle was installed not just with suitable furnishings,  

240  
00:12:10,243 --> 00:12:13,742  
还装有苏格兰首套内部电话系统。  
but with the first internal telephone system in Scotland.  

241  
00:12:13,792 --> 00:12:17,213  
另一项维多利亚时代的巧思是  
And another example of Victorian ingenuity  

242  
00:12:17,263 --> 00:12:19,421  
城堡里的自动管风琴，  
is the castle’s orchestrion,  

243  
00:12:19,471 --> 00:12:22,979  
据传最初为维多利亚女王打造。  
apparently originally made for Queen Victoria.  

244  
00:12:29,451 --> 00:12:32,347  
可惜如今音准已失，  
Sadly, it's not quite in tune anymore,  

245  
00:12:32,397 --> 00:12:34,365  
但正在筹款修复  
but there is a fundraising campaign underway  

246  
00:12:34,415 --> 00:12:37,998  
希望不久后能重现  
so hopefully it will one day soon be restored  

247  
00:12:38,048 --> 00:12:39,715  
昔日辉煌。  
to its former glory.  

248  
00:12:46,211 --> 00:12:48,882  
这座华丽的舞厅或许最能体现  
Perhaps the best illustration of Bullough’s wealth  

249  
00:12:48,932 --> 00:12:52,099  
布洛的财富与特权。  
and privilege is this ornate ballroom.  

250  
00:12:53,394 --> 00:12:55,573  
仆役不得  
Where servants were not allowed  

251  
00:12:55,623 --> 00:12:58,123  
直视尊贵的主宾。  
to set eyes on their betters.  

252  
00:12:59,074 --> 00:13:00,325  
仆役禁止进入此厅  
They didn’t allow staff in this room  

253  
00:13:00,375 --> 00:13:03,075  
所需物品通过管家传递窗  
and if they wanted anything then they had the butler’s hatch  

254  
00:13:03,125 --> 00:13:04,181  
- 在这里？ - 是的  
- Over here? - Yes.  

255  
00:13:04,231 --> 00:13:07,131  
传窗嵌在镶板墙内。  
This hatch is set into this paneled wall.  

256  
00:13:07,181 --> 00:13:09,888  
宾客写下需求放入窗内  
Yes, so they’d write down whatever they wanted  

257  
00:13:09,938 --> 00:13:10,880  
and put it in there.  

258  
00:13:10,930 --> 00:13:13,027  
- 薯片、坚果、威士忌  
- Crisps, nuts, whisky.  

259  
00:13:13,077 --> 00:13:15,739  
管家在另一侧接收  
Yes, and um, the butler would sit on the other side  

260  
00:13:15,789 --> 00:13:17,697  
关上门后  
of that and they’d shut the doors  

261  
00:13:17,747 --> 00:13:19,598  
宾客敲窗示意  
and then they’d knock from this side  

262  
00:13:19,648 --> 00:13:21,766  
管家便会递入所需物品。  
and then the butler would put in whatever they wanted.

263  
00:13:21,816 --> 00:13:22,846  
- 真是相当隐秘  
- Right, all very discreet.  

264  
00:13:22,896 --> 00:13:24,546  
- 仆役永远无法知晓厅内实况  
- Yeah, so never really saw what actually went on in here.  

265  
00:13:24,596 --> 00:13:27,227  
- 完全无法窥视内厅？  
- You can't actually peer into this room?  

266  
00:13:27,277 --> 00:13:28,060  
不能  
No.  

267  
00:13:28,110 --> 00:13:30,110  
探知布洛与宾客的举动  
To see what Bullough and his guests were up to.  

268  
00:13:30,160 --> 00:13:31,243  
绝无可能  
No.  

269  
00:13:32,490 --> 00:13:34,398  
无论夜间娱乐活动  
Whatever the evening’s entertainment  

270  
00:13:34,448 --> 00:13:35,777  
如何奢靡  
may have involved,  

271  
00:13:35,827 --> 00:13:38,600  
宾客们真正向往的  
it was the sporting attractions of the island  

272  
00:13:38,650 --> 00:13:40,567  
是岛上的狩猎项目  
that guests came for.  

273  
00:13:45,360 --> 00:13:47,947  
为探寻这片蛮荒之地  
To find out how this wild and remote place  

274  
00:13:47,997 --> 00:13:50,720  
如何变成私人游乐场  
was turned into a private playground,  

275  
00:13:50,770 --> 00:13:54,937  
我随护林员莱斯利和马塞尔同行探秘  
I'm taking a tour with Rangers Lesley and Marcel.  

276  
00:13:56,450 --> 00:13:58,617  
我们正前往荒芜腹地  
We’re heading for the empty quarter,  

277  
00:13:58,667 --> 00:14:02,834  
这座狂野巨岛最原始的内陆  
the stark interior of this magnificently wild island.  

278  
00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:08,579  
很快我们就发现了一处  
And it's not long before we come across a chilling reminder  

279  
00:14:08,629 --> 00:14:11,030  
令人不寒而栗的历史见证  
of the troubled history of Rum.  

280  
00:14:11,080 --> 00:14:13,110  
那块岩石造型很独特  
It's a very distinctive lump of rock there.  

281  
00:14:13,160 --> 00:14:14,728  
- 在朗姆岛被称为  
- Yeah, this is known on Rum  

282  
00:14:14,778 --> 00:14:16,619  
"驱逐之石"  
as the Clearances Stone.  

283  
00:14:16,669 --> 00:14:17,452  
- 嗯  
- Uh huh.  

284  
00:14:17,502 --> 00:14:21,248  
- 传说1828年大驱逐期间  
- And the story behind it was that the people of Rum  

285  
00:14:21,298 --> 00:14:23,688  
岛民将巨石推至此地留作纪念  
rolled it into place and left it behind  

286  
00:14:23,738 --> 00:14:25,844  
随后全体被遣送至加拿大  
before they were all shipped off to Canada  

287  
00:14:25,894 --> 00:14:29,296  
during the Clearances in about 1828.  

288  
00:14:29,346 --> 00:14:32,864  
这既是哀悼  
So it was kind of a display of, I guess,  

289  
00:14:32,914 --> 00:14:34,976  
也是无声的抗争  
grief and defiance at the same time  

290  
00:14:35,026 --> 00:14:37,504  
因为这是祖辈的土地  
because this was the land of their ancestors,  

291  
00:14:37,554 --> 00:14:38,675  
他们不愿离开  
they didn’t want to go,  

292  
00:14:38,725 --> 00:14:39,885  
却无力反抗  
they were very unhappy about it  

293  
00:14:39,935 --> 00:14:41,235  
最终被迫迁徙  
and there was nothing they could do  

294  
00:14:41,285 --> 00:14:45,976  
为牧羊腾出空间  
and they were shipped off to make space for sheep.  

295  
00:14:46,026 --> 00:14:47,664  
真是令人心碎的纪念碑  
It's quite a poignant memorial, isn’t it?  

296  
00:14:47,714 --> 00:14:48,782  
确实如此  
It is, yeah.  

297  
00:14:53,232 --> 00:14:55,593  
随着岛民被驱逐  
With the people cleared off the island,  

298  
00:14:55,643 --> 00:14:57,701  
维多利亚时代的猎人们  
Victorian sportsmen came looking  

299  
00:14:57,751 --> 00:15:00,542  
开始来此征服自然  
to pit themselves against nature.  

300  
00:15:00,592 --> 00:15:02,633  
但就连地貌都经过改造  
But even the landscape had been managed,  

301  
00:15:02,683 --> 00:15:06,433  
确保他们尽兴而归  
to ensure they wouldn’t go home disappointed.  

302  
00:15:07,776 --> 00:15:09,926  
这里的鱼堰  
Over here you can see the, the fish trap  

303  
00:15:09,976 --> 00:15:13,874  
属于庞大水系工程的一部分  
that was er, part of a extensive kind of network  

304  
00:15:13,924 --> 00:15:16,722  
用于引水增渔  
to divert water, to increase the fishing.  

305  
00:15:16,772 --> 00:15:17,555  
太惊人了  
It's amazing.  

306  
00:15:17,605 --> 00:15:19,364  
他们居然改造了  
So they actually went about diverting  

307  
00:15:19,414 --> 00:15:21,084  
天然河道？  
the natural course of a river?  

308  
00:15:21,134 --> 00:15:23,655  
通过筑坝截流  
Yeah, they er, they basically dammed off  

309  
00:15:23,705 --> 00:15:27,244  
建造人工水闸  
certain areas creating artificial locks,  

310  
00:15:27,294 --> 00:15:29,564  
引导鲑鱼洄游  
to get salmon up those rivers, yeah.  

311  
00:15:29,614 --> 00:15:31,758  
费尽周折只为  
Amazing amount of effort went into simply  

312  
00:15:31,808 --> 00:15:33,672  
钓条鳟鱼或鲑鱼  
trying to hook a trout or a salmon.  

313  
00:15:33,722 --> 00:15:36,541  
确实耗费了大量人力  
Yes, yeah, there's a lot of work went into that.  

314  
00:15:36,591 --> 00:15:38,670  
约30人持续施工  
There were probably 30 people working  

315  
00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:40,887  
多年才完成  
on this for several years.  

316  
00:15:48,040 --> 00:15:49,521  
布洛家族时期  
In the days of the Bulloughs,  

317  
00:15:49,571 --> 00:15:52,718  
这头十叉鹿会是绝佳战利品  
this ten pointer would have been a fine trophy.  

318  
00:15:52,768 --> 00:15:55,366  
它的祖先或许  
He may hark back to the days when such a head  

319  
00:15:55,416 --> 00:15:57,260  
曾是专为贵宾  
would perhaps have been reserved as a shot  

320  
00:15:57,310 --> 00:15:59,180  
预留的猎物  
for an important guest.  

321  
00:15:59,230 --> 00:16:02,180  
如今追踪的目标多是幼鹿  
But now, the stalker’s quarry is probably a young stag,  

322  
00:16:02,230 --> 00:16:05,260  
出于科研目的进行淘汰  
to be culled for purely scientific reasons.  

323  
00:16:05,310 --> 00:16:07,980  
但技巧依旧相同  
Yet the skill and the technique are the same.  

324  
00:16:08,030 --> 00:16:11,530  
逆风潜行 缓步无声  
The upwind stalk, the slow silent approach  

325  
00:16:12,859 --> 00:16:14,692  
精准射击  
and the stealthy shot.  

326  
00:16:26,271 --> 00:16:28,071  
我们正前往岛屿西岸  
We’re on our way to the remote  

327  
00:16:28,121 --> 00:16:32,288  
狂风肆虐的哈里斯湾  
and windswept Harris Bay on the west coast of the island.  

328  
00:16:35,151 --> 00:16:37,570  
乔治与莫妮卡·布洛  
It's here that George and Monica Bullough  

329  
00:16:37,620 --> 00:16:39,120  
选择长眠于此  
chose to be buried  

330  
00:16:40,681 --> 00:16:44,848  
当然 墓址由一座低调朴素的纪念碑标记  
And of course it's marked by a modest, unassuming monument.  

331  
00:16:47,806 --> 00:16:50,386  
莱斯利 真没想到会在此处  
Lesley, this is the last place you’d expect to see a  

332  
00:16:50,436 --> 00:16:52,103  
见到希腊式神殿  
Greek style temple.  

333  
00:16:53,067 --> 00:16:55,329  
确实显得格格不入  
Yeah, it is um, quite odd looking  

334  
00:16:55,379 --> 00:16:57,740  
and a bit out of place.  

335  
00:16:57,790 --> 00:16:59,662  
- 细想倒也合理  
- I suppose that makes sense because,  

336  
00:16:59,712 --> 00:17:00,680  
毕竟布洛家族  
as I understand it,  

337  
00:17:00,730 --> 00:17:03,160  
最重门面排场  
the Bulloughs were all about appearance  

338  
00:17:03,210 --> 00:17:05,489  
这建筑气势恢宏  
and that is quite imposing, quite grand,  

339  
00:17:05,539 --> 00:17:07,728  
颇有王者风范  
it's, it looks very regal, doesn’t it?  

340  
00:17:07,778 --> 00:17:11,036  
绝对是身份宣言  
Yeah, definitely makes a statement.  

341  
00:17:11,086 --> 00:17:13,045  
- 布洛家族到此一游  
- The Bulloughs have arrived.  

342  
00:17:13,095 --> 00:17:15,285  
但终究未能久留  
But they didn’t stay long, did they really?  

343  
00:17:15,335 --> 00:17:19,168  
- 莫妮卡夫人是最后一位  
- No, um, Lady Monica was the last in the line  

344  
00:17:20,203 --> 00:17:24,370  
1967年她沿此路长眠于丈夫身侧  
to be buried there, so 1967 she made her final trip  

345  
00:17:25,553 --> 00:17:29,470  
down the road to be buried next to her husband.  

346  
00:17:31,752 --> 00:17:33,373  
- 这座陵墓标志着  
- This mausoleum marks the end  

347  
00:17:33,423 --> 00:17:35,763  
布洛家族的终结  
of the road for the Bulloughs  

348  
00:17:35,813 --> 00:17:39,344  
但对我而言 早先所见的驱逐之石  
but for me the Clearances Stone I saw earlier  

349  
00:17:39,394 --> 00:17:41,723  
才道出朗姆岛真相  
tells the real story of Rum;  

350  
00:17:41,773 --> 00:17:44,723  
无权民众与  
the contrast between people with no power  

351  
00:17:44,773 --> 00:17:47,190  
遥领地主的天壤之别  
and their absentee landlords.  

352  
00:17:49,114 --> 00:17:53,245  
驶向最终目的地时 相似的剧情  
Sailing to my final destination there's a similar story  

353  
00:17:53,295 --> 00:17:56,056  
却迎来 happier ending.  

354  
00:17:56,106 --> 00:17:58,856  
我正前往艾格岛  
I'm heading for the Isle of Eigg.  

355  
00:18:01,943 --> 00:18:03,894  
艾格岛看似与世隔绝  
Eigg might seem like a remote place,  

356  
00:18:03,944 --> 00:18:05,656  
确实在很多方面都是  
and of course in many ways it is,  

357  
00:18:05,706 --> 00:18:07,835  
但早在旅游业萌芽期  
but the island has been attracting visitors  

358  
00:18:07,885 --> 00:18:10,968  
就吸引着访客到来  
since the very early days of tourism.  

359  
00:18:13,565 --> 00:18:16,283  
早期探险者多被岛上  
Many of those who ventured here were fascinated  

360  
00:18:16,333 --> 00:18:20,250  
斑斓而血腥的历史吸引  
by the island’s colorful and often bloody past.  

361  
00:18:21,423 --> 00:18:24,253  
据说这段海岸线某处  
I've been told that somewhere along this coastline  

362  
00:18:24,303 --> 00:18:29,173  
藏着艾格岛最黑暗的历史场景  
is a scene of one of the darkest episodes in Eigg’s history.  

363  
00:18:29,223 --> 00:18:32,890  
啊 就是这里了  
Oh yeah, that’s what I've been looking for.  

364  
00:18:34,874 --> 00:18:38,374  
这个阴森可怖的洞口  
Now this dark and sinister looking opening  

365  
00:18:39,675 --> 00:18:42,585  
盖尔语称为"弗朗斯之穴"  
is known in Gaelic as Uamh Fhraing,  

366  
00:18:42,635 --> 00:18:44,763  
which means the Cave of Frances.  

367  
00:18:44,813 --> 00:18:46,934  
名字看似平常  
Now that’s an innocent enough name,  

368  
00:18:46,984 --> 00:18:49,567  
却掩藏着恐怖往事  
but it masks a ghastly history.  

369  
00:18:52,213 --> 00:18:56,296  
此地后来被称为"屠杀洞穴"  
This place came to be known as the Massacre Cave.  

370  
00:18:57,701 --> 00:18:59,118  
洞口极为狭窄  
It's very narrow.  

371  
00:19:02,961 --> 00:19:05,791  
16世纪时 艾格岛  
In 16th century, the Island of Eigg  

372  
00:19:05,841 --> 00:19:07,943  
是麦克唐纳氏族家园  
was the home of the MacDonalds,  

373  
00:19:07,993 --> 00:19:10,071  
与斯凯岛的麦克劳德氏族  
who were locked in a bitter feud  

374  
00:19:10,121 --> 00:19:12,621  
结下世仇  
with the Clan MacLeod of Skye.  

375  
00:19:14,430 --> 00:19:17,930  
1577年 斯凯岛人入侵艾格  
Back in 1577, the men of Skye invaded Eigg  

376  
00:19:19,289 --> 00:19:21,479  
岛民见敌船来袭  
and when the islanders saw the boats coming,  

377  
00:19:21,529 --> 00:19:23,770  
全体藏身于此  
they all hid down here.  

378  
00:19:23,820 --> 00:19:26,308  
据载约400人  
It's reckoned there were up to 400 of them;  

379  
00:19:26,358 --> 00:19:28,358  
男女老幼皆有  
men, women and children.  

380  
00:19:29,486 --> 00:19:31,569  
但仍被发现  
But they were discovered.  

381  
00:19:32,953 --> 00:19:37,120  
成为氏族史上最惨烈的屠杀之一  
It was one of the worst massacres in clan history.  

382  
00:19:38,206 --> 00:19:41,305  
入侵的麦克劳德氏族  
The invading MacLeod’s lit a fire at the entrance  

383  
00:19:41,355 --> 00:19:44,938  
在洞口燃起烈火 窒息了所有人  
to the cave and suffocated everyone inside.  

384  
00:19:49,966 --> 00:19:53,476  
岛上居民尽数殒命  
The entire population of the island perished,  

385  
00:19:53,526 --> 00:19:57,804  
遗骸在原地留存数世纪  
and for centuries the bones lay where the victims died,  

386  
00:19:57,854 --> 00:20:02,265  
成为早期猎奇旅游景点  
Becoming and early and ghoulish tourist attraction.  

387  
00:20:02,315 --> 00:20:05,756  
维多利亚地质学家休·米勒曾到访  
One visitor was the Victorian geologist, Hugh Miller.  

388  
00:20:05,806 --> 00:20:08,598  
他写道："几乎每步  
He wrote, "At almost every step  

389  
00:20:08,648 --> 00:20:11,628  
"都能遇见人骨堆  
"we come upon heaps of human bones.  

390  
00:20:11,678 --> 00:20:14,775  
"不幸的岛民以家族为单位  
"The hapless islanders died and families,  

391  
00:20:14,825 --> 00:20:18,992  
"相隔数英尺成群死去"  
"each little group separated by a few feet from the others."  

392  
00:20:20,387 --> 00:20:22,416  
所幸遗骨已被移出  
Thankfully, the bones were removed  

393  
00:20:22,466 --> 00:20:25,685  
安葬于岛教堂  
and taken to the island church.  

394  
00:20:25,735 --> 00:20:28,708  
那段骇人描述  
You know, I can't get that ghastly description  

395  
00:20:28,758 --> 00:20:30,697  
始终萦绕在我心头  
out of my mind.

396  
00:20:30,747 --> 00:20:33,057  
想到多年前发生在此的惨剧  
It's terrible to think what happened down here  

397  
00:20:33,107 --> 00:20:36,440  
无数生命逝去 实在令人痛心  
all those years ago, so many lives lost.  

398  
00:20:37,507 --> 00:20:40,191  
该回到阳光下  
I think it's time I returned to the daylight  

399  
00:20:40,241 --> 00:20:42,158  
呼吸新鲜空气了  
and got some fresh air.  

400  
00:20:46,008 --> 00:20:49,998  
艾格岛最终得以重建 19世纪时  
Eigg was eventually resettled and by the 19th century  

401  
00:20:50,048 --> 00:20:52,548  
人口达500人  
there was a population of 500.  

402  
00:20:54,190 --> 00:20:56,348  
但历史再次重演  
But once again, sheep were seen  

403  
00:20:56,398 --> 00:20:58,981  
牧羊比养人更有利可图  
as more profitable than people.  

404  
00:21:00,219 --> 00:21:02,158  
在这些岛屿上  
In the islands it's almost impossible  

405  
00:21:02,208 --> 00:21:04,378  
几乎处处可见  
to escape the legacy of the Clearances  

406  
00:21:04,428 --> 00:21:07,158  
大驱逐的遗痕  
and Eigg is no exception.  

407  
00:21:07,208 --> 00:21:09,358  
格鲁林村昔日的繁荣  
Now these ruins is all that’s left  

408  
00:21:09,408 --> 00:21:12,908  
如今只剩这些断壁残垣  
of the once thriving community of Gruilin.  

409  
00:21:14,688 --> 00:21:18,726  
这片土地仍在诉说历史  
This is a place where history speaks from the soil.  

410  
00:21:18,776 --> 00:21:21,940  
1853年村庄遭清空时  
When this village was cleared in 1853  

411  
00:21:21,990 --> 00:21:25,407  
许多居民迁往加拿大  
many of it's people moved away to Canada.  

412  
00:21:26,390 --> 00:21:30,557  
随之消逝的还有语言、文化与生活方式  
With them went a language, a culture and a way of life.  

413  
00:21:33,539 --> 00:21:34,905  
人口锐减的灾难性影响  
Eigg never fully recovered  

414  
00:21:34,955 --> 00:21:37,929  
使艾格岛元气大伤  
from the devastating effects of depopulation.  

415  
00:21:37,979 --> 00:21:40,348  
二战时期  
By the time of the Second World War,  

416  
00:21:40,398 --> 00:21:42,565  
岛上仅剩47位居民  
just 47 people lived here.  

417  
00:21:43,509 --> 00:21:46,842  
岛屿命运跌至谷底  
The island’s fortunes were at a low ebb.  

418  
00:21:48,200 --> 00:21:50,998  
20世纪后半叶  
Throughout the latter part of the 20th century,  

419  
00:21:51,048 --> 00:21:54,180  
岛主更迭频繁  
a succession of owners came and went,  

420  
00:21:54,230 --> 00:21:57,849  
岛屿与日渐稀少的居民  
while the island and it's dwindling population suffered  

421  
00:21:57,899 --> 00:21:59,732  
长期遭受忽视  
from years of neglect.  

422  
00:22:01,858 --> 00:22:04,446  
对日益不满的岛民而言  
For the increasingly disgruntled islanders,  

423  
00:22:04,496 --> 00:22:07,626  
90年代末的又一次易主  
the final straw came in the late 1990s,  

424  
00:22:07,676 --> 00:22:10,317  
成为压垮骆驼的最后一根稻草  
when the island was sold again.  

425  
00:22:10,367 --> 00:22:13,778  
艾格岛第十任领主  
Eigg’s tenth Laird, like those who had gone before,  

426  
00:22:13,828 --> 00:22:17,078  
与此前的领主一样空许诺言  
came with big promises and grand plans.  

427  
00:22:18,160 --> 00:22:20,080  
我拜访了玛吉·法伊夫  
I've come to meet Maggie Fife,  

428  
00:22:20,130 --> 00:22:22,461  
她曾积极参与  
who was very much involved in the struggle  

429  
00:22:22,511 --> 00:22:25,535  
驱逐神秘领主的抗争  
to oust Eigg’s enigmatic Laird.  

430  
00:22:25,585 --> 00:22:28,436  
- 记得那位自称马鲁玛的  
- I can remember this mysterious German artist,  

431  
00:22:28,486 --> 00:22:30,517  
德国艺术家突然乘直升机  
called himself Maruma,  

432  
00:22:30,567 --> 00:22:32,327  
从天而降  
who appeared one day out of the blue,  

433  
00:22:32,377 --> 00:22:33,727  
out of the sky in a helicopter.  

434  
00:22:36,785 --> 00:22:39,733  
他走访多数住户宣称  
And he went around most of the houses and visited people  

435  
00:22:39,783 --> 00:22:43,095  
自己是新岛主  
and so said, you know, he was the new owner,  

436  
00:22:43,145 --> 00:22:44,664  
渴望融入  
and he very much wanted to live here,  

437  
00:22:44,714 --> 00:22:46,014  
社区 
and be a part of the community,  

438  
00:22:46,064 --> 00:22:48,247  
并提出各种构想 
and he had various ideas.  

439  
00:22:48,297 --> 00:22:52,464  
我们次日匆忙安排了会面  
And we hastily arranged a meeting with him the next day.  

440  
00:22:53,856 --> 00:22:55,338  
- 他看似倾听民意  
- He appeared as if he was listening to you,  

441  
00:22:55,388 --> 00:22:57,072  
支持你们的想法  
was sympathetic to your ideas.  

442  
00:22:57,122 --> 00:22:59,733  
他带走我们  
Yeah, he took away all our, you know,  

443  
00:22:59,783 --> 00:23:00,712  
关于岛屿发展的  
all the work we’d done  

444  
00:23:00,762 --> 00:23:03,021  
全部规划方案  
on how we saw Eigg developing  

445  
00:23:03,071 --> 00:23:04,820  
消失数月后  
and he disappeared for a few months  

446  
00:23:04,870 --> 00:23:08,933  
带着所谓  
and then he turned up with this huge bit of paper,  

447  
00:23:08,983 --> 00:23:10,651  
"概念书"重现
which he called his Concept.  

448  
00:23:13,547 --> 00:23:15,384  
此后便杳无音讯  
And that’s the last we ever saw him.  

449  
00:23:15,434 --> 00:23:17,104  
某种程度上倒是好事  
It probably was a good thing in a way  

450  
00:23:17,154 --> 00:23:20,111  
马鲁玛持有  
because Maruma owned Eigg for two years  

451  
00:23:20,161 --> 00:23:22,952  
艾格岛两年间  
and during that time he did absolutely nothing here.  

452  
00:23:23,002 --> 00:23:25,192  
毫无作为
He did absolutely nothing.  

453  
00:23:25,242 --> 00:23:26,971  
这让大家确信  
So that sort of convinced everybody  

454  
00:23:27,021 --> 00:23:29,059  
我们能做得更好  
that we could actually do a better job than that.  

455  
00:23:34,122 --> 00:23:36,581  
岛民决定  
The islanders decided enough was enough  

456  
00:23:36,631 --> 00:23:39,372  
奋起反抗
and began to fight back.  

457  
00:23:39,422 --> 00:23:41,361  
我们发起募捐  
We launched a fundraising appeal,  

458  
00:23:41,411 --> 00:23:44,362  
筹集超150万英镑  
we raised over 1.5 million, and that came  

459  
00:23:44,412 --> 00:23:47,993  
来自万余民众捐助  
from over 10,000 members of the general public.  

460  
00:23:48,043 --> 00:23:49,612  
真是惊人  
That’s amazing, isn’t it?  

461  
00:23:49,662 --> 00:23:52,092  
确实不可思议  
Yeah, it was incredible.  

462  
00:23:52,142 --> 00:23:53,021  
你认为这种  
What do you think that level  

463  
00:23:53,071 --> 00:23:56,142  
公众支持力度反映了  
of public support says about the way people feel  

464  
00:23:56,192 --> 00:23:59,630  
人们对传统高地领主制的态度？  
about landlords and on the traditional Highland model?  

465  
00:23:59,680 --> 00:24:01,362  
- 众多支持者认同  
- An awful lot of people supported it  

466  
00:24:01,412 --> 00:24:04,112  
土地改革理念  
because they supported the idea of land reform,  

467  
00:24:04,162 --> 00:24:06,350  
弱者战胜强者的故事  
and the idea of the little guy beating the big guy  

468  
00:24:06,400 --> 00:24:10,722  
总是引人入胜  
is always kind of attractive, isn't it?  

469  
00:24:10,772 --> 00:24:13,028  
1997年，艾格岛民  
In 1997, the people of Eigg  

470  
00:24:13,078 --> 00:24:14,868  
终于赢得斗争  
finally won their battle  

471  
00:24:14,918 --> 00:24:18,552  
掌握自身命运  
and took control of their own destiny.  

472  
00:24:18,602 --> 00:24:19,820  
你们成功了  
And you've done it.  

473  
00:24:19,870 --> 00:24:20,903  
- 我们做到了  
- And we did it, yeah.  

474  
00:24:20,953 --> 00:24:22,399  
感受如何？  
What's it been like?  

475  
00:24:22,449 --> 00:24:23,709  
- 付出诸多艰辛  
- A lot of hard work.  

476  
00:24:25,385 --> 00:24:27,556  
今晚要庆祝吧？  
You're celebrating tonight, are you not?  

477  
00:24:27,606 --> 00:24:29,275  
- 当然要庆祝  
- Oh, I will be celebrating tonight, yeah.  

478  
00:24:29,325 --> 00:24:31,665  
- 庆祝什么纪念日？  
- So what is the occasion of this celebration?  

479  
00:24:31,715 --> 00:24:34,236  
- 购岛十六周年  
- Well it's our 16th anniversary of the buy out.  

480  
00:24:34,286 --> 00:24:37,535  
举办凯利舞会 亲友齐聚  
We have a big Ceilidh, and a lot of friends and relations  

481  
00:24:37,585 --> 00:24:39,436  
共庆盛事  
come over and help us celebrate.  

482  
00:24:39,486 --> 00:24:41,255  
- 稍后我也加入  
- Well I think I might join you later on.  

483  
00:24:41,305 --> 00:24:42,716  
共舞同欢  
Yes, on the dance floor.  

484  
00:24:42,766 --> 00:24:44,586  
- 我很乐意参与  
- It's something I enjoy helping out with.  

485  
00:24:44,636 --> 00:24:46,093  
共庆这一盛事  
We will have a celebration.  

486  
00:24:54,452 --> 00:24:57,389  
各方来客正陆续聚集  
As you can see, people are gathering from far and wide.  

487  
00:24:57,439 --> 00:24:58,970  
露营区篝火已燃起  
You even got people camping over here  

488  
00:24:59,020 --> 00:25:01,570  
驱赶蚊虫  
and the campfire going, to keep the midges at bay.  

489  
00:25:01,620 --> 00:25:03,381  
道路尽头传来  
And up at the end of the road here  

490  
00:25:03,431 --> 00:25:05,467  
欢快乐声  
I can hear the strains of music playing  

491  
00:25:05,517 --> 00:25:08,149  
今夜艾格岛民  
because tonight is when the people of Eigg,  

492  
00:25:08,199 --> 00:25:10,629  
与全球友人  
and their friends from all over the world,  

493  
00:25:10,679 --> 00:25:13,699  
共庆岛屿自主  
gather to celebrate ownership of the island.  

494  
00:25:21,109 --> 00:25:22,720  
- 众多岛民对现状  
- There's, there's a lot of people on the island  

495  
00:25:22,770 --> 00:25:24,988  
深感欣慰  
who are very happy with how things have turned out.  

496  
00:25:25,038 --> 00:25:29,205  
如同独立纪念日  
It's almost like their Independence Day.  

497  
00:25:30,477 --> 00:25:33,936  
岛民们正迎来激动人心的时代  
These islanders are living in exciting times.  

498  
00:25:33,986 --> 00:25:36,206  
他们掌握未来  
They’ve taken control of their future  

499  
00:25:36,256 --> 00:25:39,896  
自主书写岛屿新篇章  
and are writing the next chapter of their island’s story,  

500  
00:25:39,946 --> 00:25:41,363  
for themselves.  

501  
00:25:43,666 --> 00:25:47,166  
这确实值得庆祝  
And that truly is something to celebrate.  

502  
00:25:54,434 --> 00:25:57,816  
依稀记得昨夜有人告知  
Now, I can hazily recall being told last night  

503  
00:25:57,866 --> 00:26:02,033  
离开艾格岛前必须完成最后一件事  
that there's one final thing I must do before I leave Eigg.  

504  
00:26:03,266 --> 00:26:05,235  
那就是攀登  
And that’s to scale the heights  

505  
00:26:05,285 --> 00:26:09,446  
这座地标性高峰  
of the landmark that dominates this island.  

506  
00:26:09,496 --> 00:26:10,913  
雄伟的斯古尔山  
The mighty Sgurr.  

507  
00:26:19,296 --> 00:26:22,456  
我正追随萨拉·穆雷的脚步  
I'm following in the footsteps of Sarah Murray,  

508  
00:26:22,506 --> 00:26:26,589  
那位身着裙撑的坚毅女探险家  
the indefatigable crinoline clad lady adventurer.  

509  
00:26:29,256 --> 00:26:33,386  
1802年她在《苏格兰美景指南》中  
She came here in 1802 and in her Companion  

510  
00:26:33,436 --> 00:26:36,536  
记载道  
and Useful Guide to the Beauties of Scotland,  

511  
00:26:36,586 --> 00:26:40,599  
"抵达艾格岛后首个晴朗早晨  
she writes, "The first clear morning after my arrival  

512  
00:26:40,649 --> 00:26:44,496  
"我骑上矮马  
"in Eigg, I mounted a pony and began my journey  

513  
00:26:44,546 --> 00:26:48,713  
"在步行友人的陪伴下前往斯古尔山"  
"to the Sgurr, accompanied by my friends on foot."  

514  
00:26:51,124 --> 00:26:55,914  
这座高耸的火山岩巨峰  
She was thrilled by the sublime spectacle of the Sgurr,  

515  
00:26:55,964 --> 00:27:00,131  
令她震撼不已  
a vast prow of volcanic rock that towers over the island.  

516  
00:27:02,124 --> 00:27:05,124  
我完全理解她的感受  
And I can see why she was impressed.  

517  
00:27:09,156 --> 00:27:11,989  
终于抵达  
Ah, now here we are, at long last.  

518  
00:27:12,826 --> 00:27:15,409  
雄伟的斯古尔山之巅  
The summit of the mighty Sgurr.  

519  
00:27:16,885 --> 00:27:20,585  
当年萨拉·穆雷在此野餐赏景  
Now when Sarah Murray got here she had a picnic  

520  
00:27:20,635 --> 00:27:21,875  
眼前风光  
and admired the view,  

521  
00:27:21,925 --> 00:27:25,342  
确实壮丽非凡  
which I have to say is pretty stupendous.  

522  
00:27:28,855 --> 00:27:32,925  
南望可见旅程起点  
To the south, I can just make out the tiny Island of Muck,  

523  
00:27:32,975 --> 00:27:34,892  
小巧的马岛  
where my journey began.  

524  
00:27:36,225 --> 00:27:38,426  
北方地平线上  
Dominating the horizon to the north,  

525  
00:27:38,476 --> 00:27:41,226  
巍峨的朗姆岛耸立  
it's the imposing skyline of Rum.  

526  
00:27:43,335 --> 00:27:47,168  
脚下是艾格岛美丽的海岸线  
And the beautiful coastline of Eigg far below.  

527  
00:27:49,386 --> 00:27:52,675  
这些岛屿或许不是  
These islands may not be the biggest I've visited,  

528  
00:27:52,725 --> 00:27:56,892  
我见过最辽阔的  
but what they lack in size they make up for in character.  

529  
00:27:59,407 --> 00:28:01,907  
却以独特魅力弥补  
Small really can be beautiful.  

530  
00:28:12,156 --> 00:28:14,906  
欢迎继续观看  
Join me on my next Grand Tour,  

531  
00:28:14,956 --> 00:28:17,506  
我的下一站岛屿朝圣之旅  
when I'm on an island pilgrimage,  

532  
00:28:17,556 --> 00:28:20,056  
追随圣徒足迹  
following in the footsteps of the saints,  

533  
00:28:20,106 --> 00:28:23,356  
探访利斯莫尔岛、科伦赛岛与奥伦赛岛  
to visit Lismore, Colonsay and Oronsay.  