1 00:00:06,595 --> 00:00:08,315 - 苏格兰海岸。 - The Scottish Coast. 2 00:00:08,365 --> 00:00:11,174 岩石岬角与美丽海滩 An astonishingly intricate combination 3 00:00:11,224 --> 00:00:15,409 令人惊叹的复杂组合。 of rocky headlands and beautiful beaches. 4 00:00:15,459 --> 00:00:19,542 近海处还有一系列令人目眩的岛屿。 And, lying offshore, a dazzling array of islands. 5 00:00:20,792 --> 00:00:24,331 显而易见的是，四面环水 It's an obvious fact that being surrounded by water 6 00:00:24,381 --> 00:00:27,617 使得岛屿成为难以抵达之地。 can make islands awkward places to get to. 7 00:00:27,667 --> 00:00:30,473 汹涌的海浪与变幻莫测的天气 Stormy seas and unpredictable weather 8 00:00:30,523 --> 00:00:32,801 常常意味着岛上的生活 can often mean that island life 9 00:00:32,851 --> 00:00:35,018 有着耐人寻味的不同。 is intriguingly different. 10 00:00:36,994 --> 00:00:39,825 我一直被苏格兰岛屿 I've always been drawn to the alluring magic 11 00:00:39,875 --> 00:00:41,809 迷人的魔力所吸引。 of the Scottish Islands. 12 00:00:41,859 --> 00:00:44,677 在本系列中，我将启程探索 And, in this series, I'm setting out to explore 13 00:00:44,727 --> 00:00:46,715 它们惊人的富饶。 their amazing riches. 14 00:00:46,765 --> 00:00:49,638 从最北部的富拉岛出发 Traveling from Foula in the far north 15 00:00:49,688 --> 00:00:51,718 前往南部的巴斯岩。 to the Bass Rock in the south. 16 00:00:51,768 --> 00:00:55,518 自东向西穿越整个国家。 Criss-crossing the country from east to west. 17 00:00:56,749 --> 00:00:58,779 然而，这里有大大小小近300座岛屿 But, there are nearly 300 islands 18 00:00:58,829 --> 00:01:01,038 足以被称为岛屿 big enough to lay claim to the name 19 00:01:01,088 --> 00:01:02,970 这还不包括环绕着 and that's not counting the myriad 20 00:01:03,020 --> 00:01:05,454 6000英里曲折海岸线的 of stacks and skerries that surround 21 00:01:05,504 --> 00:01:08,695 无数岩柱和小礁石 the 6,000 convoluted miles of coast 22 00:01:08,745 --> 00:01:11,811 我将从大西洋开始探索 that I'll be exploring from the Atlantic Ocean 23 00:01:11,861 --> 00:01:13,278 直至北海。 to the North Sea. 24 00:01:25,696 --> 00:01:28,206 在我的首次岛屿大环游中 For the first of my island grand tours, 25 00:01:28,256 --> 00:01:31,011 我将前往富拉岛和费尔岛。 I'm heading to Foula and Fair Isle. 26 00:01:31,061 --> 00:01:33,966 这是英国最偏远的岛群。 The remotest island communities in Britain. 27 00:01:34,016 --> 00:01:35,996 因其极度偏远，罗马人曾 Thought so remote that the Romans 28 00:01:36,046 --> 00:01:39,369 将富拉岛描述为"极北之地" once described Foula as ultima thule, 29 00:01:39,419 --> 00:01:41,252 世界的尽头。 the edge of the world. 30 00:01:42,885 --> 00:01:45,566 富拉岛正式被认定为 The island of Foula is officially 31 00:01:45,616 --> 00:01:48,201 英国境内第二偏远的 the second remotest inhabited island 32 00:01:48,251 --> 00:01:50,966 有人居住岛屿，前往此地 in the whole of the U.K. and to get there 33 00:01:51,016 --> 00:01:54,134 古时的旅人必须穿越设得兰群岛以西 travelers of old had to negotiate 16 miles 34 00:01:54,184 --> 00:01:57,291 16英里的狂暴水域。 of wild water west of Shetland. 35 00:01:57,341 --> 00:01:59,435 当然，如今仍可乘船前往 You can still take the boat, of course, 36 00:01:59,485 --> 00:02:02,369 但值得庆幸的是，现在有了 but thankfully, there are other quicker 37 00:02:02,419 --> 00:02:04,736 更快捷便利的选择 and more convenient alternatives available 38 00:02:04,786 --> 00:02:07,619 所以我选择了飞机。 which is why I'm taking the plane. 39 00:02:10,152 --> 00:02:12,374 设得兰群岛议会运营着 The Shetland Islands Council operates 40 00:02:12,424 --> 00:02:16,351 每周四天往返富拉岛的航班。 an air service four days a week to Foula. 41 00:02:16,401 --> 00:02:18,123 飞机是小型的。 The plane is a small one. 42 00:02:18,173 --> 00:02:20,886 毕竟富拉岛的人口也不多。 But then, the population of Foula isn't big. 43 00:02:20,936 --> 00:02:25,103 最新统计显示，岛上仅有32位居民。 At the last count, there were just 32 people living there. 44 00:02:26,099 --> 00:02:28,395 当富拉岛进入视野时，我能辨认出 As Foula comes into view, I can make out 45 00:02:28,445 --> 00:02:31,923 这座崎岖岛屿由九平方英里 the nine square miles of cliff girt terrain 46 00:02:31,973 --> 00:02:33,926 悬崖环绕的地形构成。 that make up this rugged island. 47 00:02:44,538 --> 00:02:45,704 我们到了。 Now, here we are. 48 00:02:45,754 --> 00:02:47,921 富拉机场1号航站楼。 Terminal 1, Foula Airport. 49 00:02:48,995 --> 00:02:51,059 所有流程都在这里完成。 Everything takes place in there. 50 00:02:51,109 --> 00:02:55,208 值机、护照检查、行李提取。 Check-in, passport control, baggage reclaim. 51 00:02:55,258 --> 00:02:57,767 我得说这空间利用 I'd say that was a pretty impressive 52 00:02:57,817 --> 00:03:00,371 既高效又令人印象深刻。 and efficient use of space. 53 00:03:04,957 --> 00:03:07,221 经验丰富的旅行者常说 Experienced travelers often say 54 00:03:07,271 --> 00:03:09,803 从机场到酒店的旅程 that the journey from airport to hotel 55 00:03:09,853 --> 00:03:11,926 能让你了解关于目的地 tells you everything you need to know 56 00:03:11,976 --> 00:03:13,994 所需知晓的一切。 about the place you are visiting. 57 00:03:14,044 --> 00:03:17,206 这条法则适用于纽约、东京或迪拜 What's true of New York, Tokyo or Dubai 58 00:03:17,256 --> 00:03:19,951 对富拉岛同样适用—— is surely true of Foula where the sense 59 00:03:20,001 --> 00:03:22,168 这里的偏远感触手可及。 of remoteness is palpable. 60 00:03:25,218 --> 00:03:29,006 过去，在小岛上生活 In the past, especially, living on a small island 61 00:03:29,056 --> 00:03:31,558 意味着要为生存苦苦挣扎 would be a real struggle for survival 62 00:03:31,608 --> 00:03:34,619 几个世纪以来，富拉岛承受了 and down the centuries, Foula has had more 63 00:03:34,669 --> 00:03:36,762 超乎寻常的艰辛。 than its fair share of hardship. 64 00:03:41,485 --> 00:03:44,112 岛上人口在1881年达到顶峰 The population peaked in 1881 65 00:03:44,162 --> 00:03:47,254 共有267人。 at 267 souls. 66 00:03:47,304 --> 00:03:50,891 但此后人口急剧下降。 But, since then, numbers have declined steeply. 67 00:03:50,941 --> 00:03:53,843 人们离开去寻找更轻松的生活。 People moved away to find an easier life. 68 00:03:53,893 --> 00:03:57,893 更可怕的是，疾病曾造成重大伤亡。 And, alarmingly, disease once took a heavy toll. 69 00:03:59,601 --> 00:04:03,998 17世纪之交时，一场瘟疫爆发。 At the turn of the 17th Century, an epidemic struck. 70 00:04:04,048 --> 00:04:06,699 当时称为"大热病"。 It was called the muckle fever. 71 00:04:06,749 --> 00:04:09,536 现在我们称之为天花。 But, we know it as small pox. 72 00:04:09,586 --> 00:04:13,568 它夺走了岛上90%居民的生命。 It wiped out 90% of the island's inhabitants. 73 00:04:13,618 --> 00:04:16,470 可以理解，岛民们过去会 Understandably, island people used to put 74 00:04:16,520 --> 00:04:19,937 将像我这样的外来访客隔离。 visiting strangers like me in quarantine. 75 00:04:22,907 --> 00:04:25,088 现在我认为自己 Now, I like to consider myself to be in, 76 00:04:25,138 --> 00:04:26,784 健康状况良好。 well, robust health. 77 00:04:26,834 --> 00:04:29,099 我希望即将拜访的那位 And, I'm hoping that the man I've come to visit 78 00:04:29,149 --> 00:04:31,488 会对隔离制度 is going to take a lenient attitude 79 00:04:31,538 --> 00:04:33,750 采取宽容态度。 to the whole idea of quarantine. 80 00:04:33,800 --> 00:04:35,668 他理应如此，因为他经营着 Well, he should to, because he runs 81 00:04:35,718 --> 00:04:37,885 岛上唯一的民宿。 the island's only B and B. 82 00:04:41,513 --> 00:04:42,577 布莱恩 - 怎么了保罗？ Now Brian, - Yes, Paul? 83 00:04:42,627 --> 00:04:45,212 我现在过来安全吗？ is it safe for me to come through? 84 00:04:45,262 --> 00:04:47,097 - 我会站在你的上风口 - 明白 - I'll stand upwind of ya here, alright. 85 00:04:47,147 --> 00:04:49,082 - 因为我听说这里有 - 'Cause I understand there was a tradition 86 00:04:49,132 --> 00:04:51,040 24小时隔离的传统 of a quarantine for 24 hours. 87 00:04:51,090 --> 00:04:53,707 - 不是传统，是现行规定 - It's not a tradition, it's ongoing. 88 00:04:53,757 --> 00:04:55,202 而且严格执行，没错 And, it's an active thing, yeah. 89 00:04:55,252 --> 00:04:56,738 - 我没染病 - I don't have any diseases. 90 00:04:56,788 --> 00:04:57,623 至少我不知道 Not that I know of. 91 00:04:57,673 --> 00:04:58,875 - 问题就在这儿 - Well, you see that's the thing. 92 00:04:58,925 --> 00:05:00,363 你可能携带了 You may be come in carrying something 93 00:05:00,413 --> 00:05:02,028 自己都不知道的病原体 that you don't know of and it'll develop. 94 00:05:02,078 --> 00:05:03,383 - 好吧 - 所以给你三天时间 - Right. - So, you got your three days 95 00:05:03,433 --> 00:05:05,297 等潜伏期过去 for it develop and then you're okay 96 00:05:05,347 --> 00:05:07,617 才能接触岛民，这样没人会被传染 to go and meet people where no one catch anything. 97 00:05:07,667 --> 00:05:08,838 - 这里有过疾病传播的 - So, was there a history of disease 98 00:05:08,888 --> 00:05:11,007 历史吗？ - 是的，天花 spreading through here? - Yeah, well, small pox. 99 00:05:11,057 --> 00:05:14,302 20世纪初夺走一半人口 Half the population in the early 1900's. 100 00:05:14,352 --> 00:05:15,135 - 真的吗？ - 后来 - Did it really? - And then, 101 00:05:15,185 --> 00:05:17,633 二战期间的流感 there was influenza which was the Second World War 102 00:05:17,683 --> 00:05:19,706 又让所有人濒临灭绝 just decimate everybody and again, 103 00:05:19,756 --> 00:05:21,678 人口再次减半 half the population were gone. 104 00:05:21,728 --> 00:05:24,047 - 布莱恩原籍阿伯丁郡 - Brian is originally from Adembra 105 00:05:24,097 --> 00:05:26,830 三十多年前移居富拉岛 and moved to Foula over 30 years ago 106 00:05:26,880 --> 00:05:28,826 经营这家民宿 to run his B and B. 107 00:05:28,876 --> 00:05:31,578 是岛上的偏远特质吸引你 So, was it the remoteness that attracted you 108 00:05:31,628 --> 00:05:33,231 来这里的吗？ to the island, did you say? 109 00:05:33,281 --> 00:05:34,884 - 不，我当时觉得这里 - Well, no, I just look at it upon 110 00:05:34,934 --> 00:05:36,340 差不多是最后的边疆 it's the last frontier more or less 111 00:05:36,390 --> 00:05:37,951 因为没有电力 'cause there's no electricity, 112 00:05:38,001 --> 00:05:39,404 没有自来水 there's no running water, 113 00:05:39,454 --> 00:05:42,690 没有任何公共服务 there's no any services of any kind. 114 00:05:42,740 --> 00:05:45,399 当时有机会 And, there was an opportunity 115 00:05:45,449 --> 00:05:46,876 从零开始建设 to build something from scratch. 116 00:05:46,926 --> 00:05:47,709 - 原来如此 - Oh. 117 00:05:47,759 --> 00:05:49,821 和多数岛民一样，布莱恩身兼数职 Like most islanders, Brian has more 118 00:05:49,871 --> 00:05:52,669 以维持生计 than one job to make ends meet. 119 00:05:52,719 --> 00:05:54,876 - 船长、民宿老板 - Skipper of the boat, B and B, 120 00:05:54,926 --> 00:05:58,397 维修工、灯塔看守人、掘墓人 good maintenance man, light housekeeper, grave digger. 121 00:05:58,447 --> 00:05:59,466 掘墓人？ A grave digger? 122 00:05:59,516 --> 00:06:02,811 - 幸好这份差事不常需要 - Yes, fortunately not a lot of call for that one. 123 00:06:05,016 --> 00:06:06,982 布莱恩还养了些羊 Brian also keeps some sheep 124 00:06:07,032 --> 00:06:08,795 补贴收入 to supplement his income. 125 00:06:08,845 --> 00:06:11,131 当不需要照料羊群时 And, when he's not tending to their needs, 126 00:06:11,181 --> 00:06:14,691 他乐于喂养宠物大贼鸥鲍勃 he's happy feeding his pet bonxie, Bob, 127 00:06:14,741 --> 00:06:18,338 这种大贼鸥以凶猛著称 a great skua with a ferocious reputation. 128 00:06:18,388 --> 00:06:21,411 但布莱恩能让它从手心啄食 But, Brian has him eating out of his hand. 129 00:06:21,461 --> 00:06:22,544 基本如此 Well, almost. 130 00:06:23,616 --> 00:06:25,063 - 现在你要接住它 - Now, you're going catch it. 131 00:06:25,113 --> 00:06:29,175 - 虽然大贼鸥鲍勃可以享用零食 - Whilst, it's okay for Bonxie Bob to fill up on tidbits, 132 00:06:29,225 --> 00:06:33,068 但为其他人获取补给却可能成问题 getting supplies for anyone else can be problematic. 133 00:06:33,118 --> 00:06:36,119 这里曾是岛上商店兼邮局。 This was once the island shop and post office. 134 00:06:36,169 --> 00:06:38,252 但多年前已关闭。 But, it closed years ago. 135 00:06:39,582 --> 00:06:41,964 如今所有食品酒水 All groceries and booze now have 136 00:06:42,014 --> 00:06:44,347 都需通过船只或飞机运输。 to come in by boat or plane. 137 00:06:45,204 --> 00:06:47,454 更糟的是，这里没有酒吧。 Even worse, there's no pub. 138 00:06:50,567 --> 00:06:52,698 我无视隔离礼仪 Flouting quarantine etiquette, 139 00:06:52,748 --> 00:06:55,194 与两位岛民女性会面。 I meet up with two island women. 140 00:06:55,244 --> 00:06:58,448 彭妮·吉尔和弗兰·戴森-萨顿。 Penny Gear and Fran Dyson-Sutton. 141 00:06:58,498 --> 00:07:01,893 我声明自己无传染性后，她们同意 I told them I wasn't contagious and they both agreed 142 00:07:01,943 --> 00:07:05,733 带我去看"小坡裂隙"。 to guide me to see Da Sneck o da Smaallie. 143 00:07:05,783 --> 00:07:07,146 管它是什么。 Whatever that is. 144 00:07:07,196 --> 00:07:10,012 - "裂隙"指狭缝或裂口 - Sneck means a small gap or crack, 145 00:07:10,062 --> 00:07:11,520 类似凹槽。- 嗯哼 like a notch. - Uh huh. 146 00:07:11,570 --> 00:07:14,378 "小坡"就是小斜坡的意思 And Smaal, small and lie is slope. 147 00:07:14,428 --> 00:07:17,284 - 所以这是斜坡上的裂缝 - Right, so it's a gap in a slope. 148 00:07:17,334 --> 00:07:18,117 - 对 - Yeah. 149 00:07:18,167 --> 00:07:19,274 - 这些词源来自哪里？ - And, where do those words come from? 150 00:07:19,324 --> 00:07:20,576 - 是古诺尔斯语 - They're Norse words. 151 00:07:20,626 --> 00:07:21,924 - 那"富拉"呢？ - Right, and Foula? 152 00:07:21,974 --> 00:07:23,247 也是诺尔斯语吗？ Is that a Norse word, as well? 153 00:07:23,297 --> 00:07:25,732 - 源自"富格洛伊" - That's the Norse, well, it's from Fugloy 154 00:07:25,782 --> 00:07:28,708 在诺尔斯语中意为"鸟之岛" and Fugloy is the Norse word for island of birds. 155 00:07:28,758 --> 00:07:30,265 - 啊，富格洛伊 - Ah, Fugloy. 156 00:07:30,315 --> 00:07:32,547 你们在此居住多久了？ How long have you both lived here? 157 00:07:32,597 --> 00:07:35,161 - 我出生于此，是原住民 - I was born here, so, I'm a native. 158 00:07:35,211 --> 00:07:36,664 终生未离岛 Been here all my life. 159 00:07:36,714 --> 00:07:38,383 - 所以你是地道的富拉岛民？ - So, you're Foula Foula through and through? 160 00:07:38,433 --> 00:07:39,812 - 没错 - Yeah, yup. 161 00:07:39,862 --> 00:07:41,081 - 弗兰，你来多久了？ - Fran, how long have you been here? 162 00:07:41,131 --> 00:07:43,343 - 至今四年了 - Oh, I've been here for four years now. 163 00:07:43,393 --> 00:07:45,741 不算太长 So, not too long. 164 00:07:45,791 --> 00:07:47,196 - 还不算原住民 - You're not quite a native yet. 165 00:07:47,246 --> 00:07:48,413 - 暂时不是 - No, not yet. 166 00:07:49,354 --> 00:07:51,992 - 当我们穿越名为达达尔 - As we make our way through a small glen 167 00:07:52,042 --> 00:07:55,917 的小峡谷时，前方出现几只大贼鸥 known as Dardal, I spot some bonxies ahead. 168 00:07:55,967 --> 00:07:58,680 我猜是鲍勃的亲戚 Some of Bob's relatives, I suspect. 169 00:07:58,730 --> 00:08:01,250 老实说看起来不太像海鸟 Doesn't actually look much like a seabird, I have to say. 170 00:08:01,300 --> 00:08:02,989 更像鵟鹰 Looks more like a buzzard. 171 00:08:03,039 --> 00:08:04,420 - 我认为它既是猛禽 - I would class it as bird of prey, 172 00:08:04,470 --> 00:08:05,721 也是投机取巧的 as well as just being a seabird, 173 00:08:05,771 --> 00:08:06,601 海鸟 that's very opportunistic. 174 00:08:06,651 --> 00:08:08,524 - 确实 - 没错 - Right, it is. - Yeah. 175 00:08:08,574 --> 00:08:11,108 它们不满足于追逐 They're not just content with chasing 176 00:08:11,158 --> 00:08:12,978 掉落食物的海鹦和海鸦 the puffins and guillemots that drop their food. 177 00:08:13,028 --> 00:08:14,540 有些专门追捕猎物 Some of them specialize in chasing them 178 00:08:14,590 --> 00:08:16,527 直接猎食 - 原来如此 to catch them and eat them. - Right. 179 00:08:16,577 --> 00:08:19,730 - 它们会试图溺死海鹦和刀嘴海雀 - They'll try and drown the puffins and aureus. 180 00:08:19,780 --> 00:08:21,148 把猎物按在水下 They'll hold them under the water. 181 00:08:21,198 --> 00:08:23,788 有次我们看见一只大贼鸥 We saw a bonxie at one point that was, 182 00:08:23,838 --> 00:08:25,717 看似在自溺 it looked like it was drowning itself 183 00:08:25,767 --> 00:08:26,994 后来发现其实 until we realized that actually 184 00:08:27,044 --> 00:08:31,152 它正把海鸦按在水里 it was holding an area puffin under the water. 185 00:08:31,202 --> 00:08:35,733 - 这种鸟很难让人喜爱吧 - They must be quite difficult birds to learn to love. 186 00:08:40,470 --> 00:08:43,300 繁殖季节期间，大贼鸥通过俯冲 During the breeding season, bonxies defend 187 00:08:43,350 --> 00:08:46,266 攻击来保卫巢穴 their nests by dive bombing intruders. 188 00:08:46,316 --> 00:08:50,266 幸运的是这些鸟尚未产卵 Luckily for us, these birds haven't laid their eggs yet 189 00:08:50,316 --> 00:08:53,263 我们得以轻松前往 so we get off lightly as we make our way 190 00:08:53,313 --> 00:08:55,396 小坡裂隙 to Da Sneck o da Smallie. 191 00:08:57,185 --> 00:08:59,844 彭妮，这下面看起来非常陡峭 Now, this looks very steep down here, Penny. 192 00:08:59,894 --> 00:09:01,924 多么壮观的空间啊 Such a very dramatic space, isn't it? 193 00:09:01,974 --> 00:09:03,354 - 确实 - It is. 194 00:09:03,404 --> 00:09:05,928 - 巨大的峡谷 - That's a huge gorge. 195 00:09:05,978 --> 00:09:08,402 堪称富拉岛的大峡谷 It's like your Grand Canyon of Foula. 196 00:09:08,452 --> 00:09:12,452 - 是富拉版的大峡谷 - Yes, it's Foula's version of the Grand Canyon. 197 00:09:13,511 --> 00:09:16,407 - 彭妮和弗兰消失在岩壁上的 - Penny and Fran disappear down a pothole 198 00:09:16,457 --> 00:09:20,045 壶穴中，这里通向烟囱道 in the cliff face which gives access to the lum, 199 00:09:20,095 --> 00:09:22,934 这条狭窄通道危险地延伸至 a narrow chimney that drops precariously 200 00:09:22,984 --> 00:09:25,082 裂隙底部 to the bottom of Da Sneck. 201 00:09:25,132 --> 00:09:29,619 我进入了一个苔藓覆盖的幽暗滴水世界 What I enter, an eerie, dripping moss carpeted world. 202 00:09:31,430 --> 00:09:33,218 看这些悬在头顶的 Wow, look at these huge chalk-stones 203 00:09:33,268 --> 00:09:35,586 巨型石灰岩 just balancing up there. 204 00:09:35,636 --> 00:09:39,318 数百吨岩石随时可能 There's hundreds of tons of rock just waiting to 205 00:09:39,368 --> 00:09:40,567 砸落头顶 fall on my head. 206 00:09:40,617 --> 00:09:42,004 - 经过下方时最好 - I think it's best not to think of it that 207 00:09:42,054 --> 00:09:46,563 别想这事儿 when you're just about to talk underneath it. 208 00:09:46,613 --> 00:09:48,996 - 彭妮告诉我小坡裂隙 - Penny tells me that Da Sneck 209 00:09:49,046 --> 00:09:51,972 是富拉岛的秘境之一 is one of Foula's secret places. 210 00:09:52,022 --> 00:09:54,414 离岛居民常重返此地 Folk who have left the island often return 211 00:09:54,464 --> 00:09:58,214 体验这惊险刺激的奇观 to enjoy its daunting and dangerous delights. 212 00:10:00,523 --> 00:10:03,310 最终我们抵达海岸 At last, we emerge onto the shore 213 00:10:03,360 --> 00:10:06,532 大西洋浪涛拍打着悬崖 where the Atlantic surf pounds the cliffs. 214 00:10:06,582 --> 00:10:09,868 这地方令人敬畏 This is an awe-inspiring place. 215 00:10:09,918 --> 00:10:12,089 彭妮和弗兰深爱此处 Penny and Fran love it here. 216 00:10:12,139 --> 00:10:15,001 我能理解如此狂野之美 And, I can appreciate how such wild beauty 217 00:10:15,051 --> 00:10:17,051 如何令人魂牵梦萦 can get under your skin. 218 00:10:19,296 --> 00:10:21,284 彭妮说岛屿西侧 Penny has told me that on the west side 219 00:10:21,334 --> 00:10:25,261 的悬崖更为壮观 of the island, the cliffs are even more dramatic. 220 00:10:25,311 --> 00:10:27,748 不幸途中遭遇更多 Unfortunately, on the way, I encounter 221 00:10:27,798 --> 00:10:30,254 大贼鸥鲍勃的亲戚 more of Bonxie Bob's relatives. 222 00:10:30,304 --> 00:10:34,471 这次它们对我的出现不再无动于衷 This time, they're not so indifferent to my presence. 223 00:10:41,124 --> 00:10:41,957 走开 Get off. 224 00:10:44,414 --> 00:10:47,084 这群大贼鸥完美捍卫了 This band of bonxies have certainly upheld 225 00:10:47,134 --> 00:10:50,305 族群作为领地守护者 their clans reputation as fearless protectors 226 00:10:50,355 --> 00:10:51,905 无畏的声誉 of their territory. 227 00:10:51,955 --> 00:10:55,541 但长时间激怒它们并非明智之举 But, it doesn't seem fair to antagonize them for too long. 228 00:10:55,591 --> 00:10:59,008 我保全头皮后离开 And, with scalp intact, I depart in search 229 00:10:59,058 --> 00:11:01,887 去寻找更宁静的海景 of a more restful sea view. 230 00:11:06,654 --> 00:11:09,846 富拉岛的悬崖令人叹为观止 The cliffs on Foula are utterly amazing. 231 00:11:09,896 --> 00:11:14,063 它们从海面拔地而起1200英尺 They rise to a dizzy, 1,200 feet above the sea. 232 00:11:14,968 --> 00:11:18,529 夏季时这里栖息着 In the summer months, they teem with tens of thousands 233 00:11:18,579 --> 00:11:20,329 数万只繁殖海鸟 of breeding seabirds. 234 00:11:21,224 --> 00:11:24,470 这壮丽景观名为卡姆崖 This magnificent sight is called the Kame 235 00:11:24,520 --> 00:11:26,796 以毫厘之差成为 and it's just a gnat's whisker of being 236 00:11:26,846 --> 00:11:28,982 英国第二高的海崖 the highest seacliff in Britain. 237 00:11:29,032 --> 00:11:31,136 如你所见，这里是 And, as you can see, it's home to thousands 238 00:11:31,186 --> 00:11:33,046 成千上万海鸟的家园 and thousands of seabirds. 239 00:11:33,096 --> 00:11:36,437 难以置信的是在旧日时光里 And, it's incredible to think that back in the old days 240 00:11:36,487 --> 00:11:39,105 男人和男孩们会攀爬这些悬崖 men and boys would climb these cliffs 241 00:11:39,155 --> 00:11:41,440 采集鸟蛋和捕捉海鸟 and collect the eggs and the birds 242 00:11:41,490 --> 00:11:44,001 带回家当晚餐 and take them home for their dinner. 243 00:11:51,110 --> 00:11:54,706 我对曾在此繁衍生息的岛民 I am fascinated by the hardiness and resourcefulness 244 00:11:54,756 --> 00:11:57,556 坚韧不拔的生存智慧着迷 of the islanders who once thrived here. 245 00:11:57,606 --> 00:12:01,773 在最严苛环境中谋取生计 Eating out a livelihood in the harshest of environments. 246 00:12:02,800 --> 00:12:05,630 埃里克·艾伯斯特能向我讲述 A man who can tell me more about the traditional 247 00:12:05,680 --> 00:12:08,734 更多传统生活方式 way of life is Eric Ibestor. 248 00:12:08,784 --> 00:12:11,540 埃里克住在没有电力 Eric lives in a house without electricity 249 00:12:11,590 --> 00:12:12,948 和自来水的房子里 or running water. 250 00:12:12,998 --> 00:12:14,804 他自称是 And, he describes himself as one 251 00:12:14,854 --> 00:12:18,921 现存最后真正的富拉岛民 of the last real Foula folk still alive. 252 00:12:18,971 --> 00:12:23,508 他的家族近200年前就在此务农 His family began crofting here nearly 200 years ago. 253 00:12:23,558 --> 00:12:25,678 当年的生活一定很艰难 Must be quite a tough life in those days. 254 00:12:25,728 --> 00:12:29,251 - 是的，农耕非常辛苦 - Well, yes, crofting is quite hard work, yes. 255 00:12:29,301 --> 00:12:33,134 所有食物都必须自给自足 You had to produce everything that you ate and 256 00:12:34,461 --> 00:12:35,481 全靠手工劳作 it was all done by hand. 257 00:12:35,531 --> 00:12:37,689 那时没有机械设备 There was no machinery then. 258 00:12:37,739 --> 00:12:39,961 每家养五六头牛 Every family had, maybe, five or six cows 259 00:12:40,011 --> 00:12:43,062 还有不少绵羊 and you had, maybe, bout a good number of sheep. 260 00:12:43,112 --> 00:12:46,315 蔬菜也必须自己种植 And, you had to grow all your own vegetables. 261 00:12:46,365 --> 00:12:47,282 所有东西。 Everything. 262 00:12:49,971 --> 00:12:52,169 这种生活方式一直持续到1960年代 We were still doing that up until the 1960's, 263 00:12:52,219 --> 00:12:54,719 70年代初，其实直到80年代 early 70's, well, 80's really. 264 00:12:55,739 --> 00:13:00,206 - 1972年的影像记录了埃里克记忆中的 - A film shot in 1972 shows life on the island 265 00:13:00,256 --> 00:13:02,238 岛上生活 as Eric remembers it. 266 00:13:02,288 --> 00:13:05,530 画面里他与父母 Here, he appears with his mother and father 267 00:13:05,580 --> 00:13:08,000 在田间耕作 digging in the fields. 268 00:13:08,050 --> 00:13:10,858 作为佃农，掌握多种技能 So, I suppose as a crofter, it's one of the traditions 269 00:13:10,908 --> 00:13:12,809 应该是传统吧 that you turn your hand to anything. 270 00:13:12,859 --> 00:13:14,027 建房呢？ What about building a house? 271 00:13:14,077 --> 00:13:16,803 过去人们会自己盖房吗？ I mean, was that something that people did in the past? 272 00:13:16,853 --> 00:13:19,277 - 富拉岛每栋房子都是主人亲手所建 - Every house in Foula was built by whoever owned it. 273 00:13:19,327 --> 00:13:20,421 当然有些人 Usually, there was some people 274 00:13:20,471 --> 00:13:21,722 更擅长建筑 who were better at building than others 275 00:13:21,772 --> 00:13:24,706 但多数男人都懂些营造 but most men folk can do a bit of building. 276 00:13:24,756 --> 00:13:26,541 我祖父和叔祖父 My grandfather and my granduncle 277 00:13:26,591 --> 00:13:29,216 就是建造这栋房子的老手 are veteran of having built this house. 278 00:13:29,266 --> 00:13:31,957 在这栋祖屋里 It was in the family home that Eric 279 00:13:32,007 --> 00:13:35,573 埃里克与他才华横溢的父亲 and his father, an accomplished singer/songwriter, 280 00:13:35,623 --> 00:13:38,293 曾为满屋岛民 were filmed playing to an admiring audience 281 00:13:38,343 --> 00:13:39,818 演奏歌唱 of island folk. 282 00:13:48,463 --> 00:13:50,197 - 他创作了四五首歌 - He wrote four or five songs 283 00:13:50,247 --> 00:13:51,893 还有些小提琴曲 and he wrote some fiddle tunes. 284 00:13:51,943 --> 00:13:54,293 甚至亲手制作过小提琴 He actually made some fiddles, as well. 285 00:13:54,343 --> 00:13:55,396 真的吗？- 千真万确 Did he really? - Yeah, yeah, yeah. 286 00:13:55,446 --> 00:13:57,108 那他是多才多艺之人 He was a highly skilled man then. 287 00:13:57,158 --> 00:13:59,892 - 没错，而他最杰出的技艺 - Yeah and, probably, his biggest skill 288 00:13:59,942 --> 00:14:00,874 当属造船 was actually boat building. 289 00:14:00,924 --> 00:14:03,844 一生中共建造了 He built, I think, nine full size boats 290 00:14:03,894 --> 00:14:05,012 九艘大船 during his lifetime. 291 00:14:07,900 --> 00:14:11,636 埃里克此生仅离开过富拉岛两次 Eric has left Foula just twice in his life. 292 00:14:11,686 --> 00:14:13,418 首次是跟随老父亲 The first time was when he went 293 00:14:13,468 --> 00:14:15,988 去设得兰群岛 on the only holiday he's ever taken, 294 00:14:16,038 --> 00:14:18,089 这也是他唯一一次 traveling all the way to Shetland 295 00:14:18,139 --> 00:14:20,212 度假经历 with his old dad. 296 00:14:20,262 --> 00:14:21,652 你觉得设得兰如何？ What did you think of Shetland? 297 00:14:21,702 --> 00:14:23,151 - 比起富拉岛稍逊一筹 - Well, it's not quite a patch than Foula. 298 00:14:23,201 --> 00:14:25,034 风景方面 I mean, scenery wise, we have, 299 00:14:25,084 --> 00:14:26,368 只有伦纳山比我们 well, I mean, Runner's Hill is the only hill 300 00:14:26,418 --> 00:14:27,683 的悬崖更高 that's higher than Foula. 301 00:14:27,733 --> 00:14:31,388 他们根本没有我们这样的峭壁 They don't have cliffs like us at all. 302 00:14:31,438 --> 00:14:33,680 不过还行吧 But, it was okay, I suppose. 303 00:14:33,730 --> 00:14:36,187 就是有点拥挤。- 有点拥挤？ A bit crowded. - A bit crowded? 304 00:14:40,002 --> 00:14:41,894 当我准备离开富拉岛时 As I prepare to leave Foula, 305 00:14:41,944 --> 00:14:44,809 埃里克对这座海风肆虐的故乡 I'm impressed by the passion that Eric has 306 00:14:44,859 --> 00:14:47,310 的热爱令我动容 for his wind swept island home. 307 00:14:47,360 --> 00:14:50,007 北方人特有的 You just can't get the beautiful North 308 00:14:50,057 --> 00:14:52,164 豪迈已深入富拉人骨髓 out of these Foula folk. 309 00:14:55,403 --> 00:14:58,189 返回设得兰后，我乘渡轮 Returning to Shetland, I take the ferry 310 00:14:58,239 --> 00:15:00,524 前往下一站 to my next destination. 311 00:15:00,574 --> 00:15:01,924 费尔岛 Fair Isle. 312 00:15:01,974 --> 00:15:06,169 英国最偏远的岛群 The remotest island community in Britain. 313 00:15:06,219 --> 00:15:10,147 在驾驶舱与船长尼尔·汤普森交谈 Up on the bridge, I chat to Skipper Neil Thompson, 314 00:15:10,197 --> 00:15:12,548 他是费尔岛人 whose a Fair Isle man. 315 00:15:12,598 --> 00:15:14,562 - 母亲来自费尔岛 - Me mom is from Fair Isle. 316 00:15:14,612 --> 00:15:16,371 父亲来自安斯特岛 And, my father's from Unst. 317 00:15:16,421 --> 00:15:18,373 我出生在... And, I was born in the. 318 00:15:18,423 --> 00:15:20,518 所以算是标准诺尔斯人 So, that makes me the average Norse man. 319 00:15:20,568 --> 00:15:23,089 不过我自认是 So, I tend to think of myself as just being 320 00:15:23,139 --> 00:15:25,473 地道的费尔岛人。- 费尔岛人 a Fair Isle man. - Fair Isle man. 321 00:15:25,523 --> 00:15:29,663 但我切换口音毫无障碍 But, I can me accent, no trouble. 322 00:15:29,713 --> 00:15:32,146 现在海况很汹涌吧？ Well, these are wild seas, are they not? 323 00:15:32,196 --> 00:15:35,005 - 今天不算，风平浪静 - Not today, no, this is lovely. 324 00:15:35,055 --> 00:15:37,001 我特意为今年余下的夏天预订了这种天气 I've actually ordered this for the rest of the summer. 325 00:15:37,051 --> 00:15:37,881 - 太棒了。- 是啊 - Fantastic. - Yeah. 326 00:15:37,931 --> 00:15:39,396 这对你来说算平静吗？ Is this flat and calm for you then? 327 00:15:39,446 --> 00:15:41,807 - 当然，简直平静极了 - Oh yeah, yeah, gosh yeah. 328 00:15:41,857 --> 00:15:43,859 冬季会怎样？ What's it like in winter? 329 00:15:43,909 --> 00:15:45,526 - 那时海况会非常恶劣 - Well, you can get really rough seas. 330 00:15:45,576 --> 00:15:50,133 我驾船经历过的最大浪高11米 The biggest wave I've taken this boat over is 11 meters. 331 00:15:50,183 --> 00:15:51,016 没错 Yeah. 332 00:15:52,851 --> 00:15:56,011 - 暴风海域的包围意味着 - Being surrounded by stormy seas means that 333 00:15:56,061 --> 00:15:59,585 费尔岛可能连续数周 Fair Isle can be cut off for weeks at a time 334 00:15:59,635 --> 00:16:01,633 与世隔绝 which is hard to imagine today 335 00:16:01,683 --> 00:16:03,883 此刻岛屿正印证着 as the island seems to be living up to 336 00:16:03,933 --> 00:16:08,100 古诺尔斯名"弗里达雷"——和平之岛 it's old Norse name, Fridarey, which means Peace Island. 337 00:16:09,235 --> 00:16:12,864 命名此地的维京人确有先见之明 I think the vikings who named it were on to something. 338 00:16:12,914 --> 00:16:14,998 这里美不胜收 This place is gorgeous. 339 00:16:15,048 --> 00:16:18,939 悬崖环抱的海上宁静港湾 A peaceful, cliff girt haven in the sea. 340 00:16:18,989 --> 00:16:21,349 70位居民的费尔岛 With 70 residents, Fair Isle has more 341 00:16:21,399 --> 00:16:23,899 人口是富拉岛两倍多 than twice the population of Foula 342 00:16:23,949 --> 00:16:26,694 且不像富拉岛，这里设有商店 and unlike Foula, it has a shop. 343 00:16:26,744 --> 00:16:28,731 据说岛上某处 It's also rumored that there's a bar 344 00:16:28,781 --> 00:16:30,182 还藏着间酒吧 somewhere on the island. 345 00:16:30,232 --> 00:16:32,399 看来情况在好转 So, things are looking up. 346 00:16:34,499 --> 00:16:36,731 尽管面积狭小 Despite it's diminutive size, 347 00:16:36,781 --> 00:16:39,259 费尔岛的知名度 Fair Isle punches way above its weight 348 00:16:39,309 --> 00:16:41,617 远超实际规模 in terms of brand recognition. 349 00:16:41,667 --> 00:16:43,793 其名每日四次出现在 It's name is broadcast four times a day 350 00:16:43,843 --> 00:16:46,630 航海天气预报中 on the shipping forecast because Fair Isle 351 00:16:46,680 --> 00:16:49,209 因同名海域而闻名 is also the name of a sea area. 352 00:16:49,259 --> 00:16:51,313 但多数人知晓此地 But perhaps, the main reason that most people 353 00:16:51,363 --> 00:16:54,459 或许是因为让这座小岛 have heard of Fair Isle is because of the knitting patterns 354 00:16:54,509 --> 00:16:57,935 举世闻名的针织图案 that have made this tiny island world famous. 355 00:17:02,211 --> 00:17:05,979 从1920年代到1960年代 From the 1920's right through to the 1960's, 356 00:17:06,029 --> 00:17:09,723 费尔岛针织品风靡一时 Fair Isle knitwear was highly fashionable. 357 00:17:09,773 --> 00:17:12,785 在岛上博物馆 Up at the island's museum, Stewart Thompson 358 00:17:12,835 --> 00:17:14,950 斯图尔特·汤普森 tells me more about the history 359 00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:18,512 为我讲解这些精美毛织品 of these beautiful, woolen garments. 360 00:17:18,562 --> 00:17:22,353 - 维京人定居此地时 - The vikings, they settled this area 361 00:17:22,403 --> 00:17:24,870 许多图案风格 and a lot of the patterns that you find here 362 00:17:24,920 --> 00:17:29,348 与斯堪的纳维亚半岛如出一辙 are very similar to patterns that you find in Scandinavia. 363 00:17:29,398 --> 00:17:32,283 整个北方地区都是如此 Indeed, all over the northern periphery. 364 00:17:34,808 --> 00:17:37,627 帆船时代，费尔岛位于 In the days of sail, Fair Isle was in the middle 365 00:17:37,677 --> 00:17:40,646 重要国际航线的中点 of a major international shipping route. 366 00:17:40,696 --> 00:17:43,630 岛民得以用针织品 And, islanders were able to swap knitwear 367 00:17:43,680 --> 00:17:45,180 交换物资或现金 for goods or cash. 368 00:17:46,369 --> 00:17:47,152 - 当时岛民 - People here were living 369 00:17:47,202 --> 00:17:48,352 勉强糊口 very much hand to mouth. 370 00:17:48,402 --> 00:17:50,634 食物全靠自给 They had to grow all their own food. 371 00:17:50,684 --> 00:17:53,237 冬季异常严酷 The winters could be quite severe. 372 00:17:53,287 --> 00:17:56,544 几乎没有任何收入 And, they were making virtually no money. 373 00:17:56,594 --> 00:18:00,106 额外收入至关重要 So, anything extra was a huge benefit. 374 00:18:04,561 --> 00:18:06,261 - 与外国船只的贸易 - Trading with foreign ships 375 00:18:06,311 --> 00:18:10,478 让费尔岛编织技艺名扬四海 spread the work of Fair Isle knitters across the seas. 376 00:18:13,839 --> 00:18:17,650 1902年，当"斯科舍号"北极探险队 In 1902, the garments got a marketing boost 377 00:18:17,700 --> 00:18:20,892 全体船员选择费尔岛毛衣 when the crew of the Scotia and Arctic Expedition 378 00:18:20,942 --> 00:18:24,717 御寒时，这些织物获得推广 chose the jerseys to keep out the cold. 379 00:18:24,767 --> 00:18:28,619 而真正的流行始于爱德华八世国王 But, real popularity came when King Edward VIII 380 00:18:28,669 --> 00:18:31,788 穿着费尔岛V领毛衣 was painted posing with his favorite pooch 381 00:18:31,838 --> 00:18:34,088 与爱犬合影的肖像画 wearing a Fair Isle v-neck. 382 00:18:38,417 --> 00:18:41,239 在斯图尔特家中 Back at Stewart's home, his wife Katrina 383 00:18:41,289 --> 00:18:44,279 其妻卡特里娜与邻居霍莉 and her neighbor, Holly, are busy knitting. 384 00:18:44,329 --> 00:18:47,266 正忙于编织 There's a cruise ship coming in two days time 385 00:18:47,316 --> 00:18:49,378 两天后有游轮抵达 and they want to have as much as possible 386 00:18:49,428 --> 00:18:51,415 她们想准备更多商品 to sell to tourists. 387 00:18:51,465 --> 00:18:54,548 这是需要高超技艺的精细活 It's highly skilled painstaking work. 388 00:18:56,018 --> 00:18:57,645 可曾想过在岛上 Do you think there's ever been a desire 389 00:18:57,695 --> 00:18:59,862 大力发展 to really get the industry 390 00:19:00,972 --> 00:19:03,283 这项产业？ kicked off in a big way on the island? 391 00:19:03,333 --> 00:19:04,671 有可能实现规模化生产吗？ Would it ever be possible to do that 392 00:19:04,721 --> 00:19:06,847 毕竟"费尔岛"这个品牌 because it's such a famous name, isn't it? 393 00:19:06,897 --> 00:19:08,081 如此知名 - 但规模化意味着 As a brand name Fair Isle. - But, if you were talking 394 00:19:08,131 --> 00:19:10,652 需要引进电动针织机 about a big way, you're talking about 395 00:19:10,702 --> 00:19:13,084 基本就是走日本 going into electric knitting machines 396 00:19:13,134 --> 00:19:16,848 或其他地区那种 and in doing, more or less, what they would, 397 00:19:16,898 --> 00:19:18,758 大规模工业化路线 well, what you're going to get from Japan 398 00:19:18,808 --> 00:19:20,849 那就完全背离传统了 or somewhere else large scale. 399 00:19:20,899 --> 00:19:24,561 电动针织机和缝合机 And, it would be electric knitting machines 400 00:19:24,611 --> 00:19:26,811 会让手工编织 and linking machines and you're getting 401 00:19:26,861 --> 00:19:29,200 彻底消失 totally away from the tradition that way. 402 00:19:29,250 --> 00:19:32,646 我们耗时10小时的手工编织 What takes us about 10 hours to knit, 403 00:19:32,696 --> 00:19:35,238 机器只需十分之一时间 they would be doing in, oh, 404 00:19:35,288 --> 00:19:37,486 就能完成 a tenth of the time almost 405 00:19:37,536 --> 00:19:38,954 届时编织工将沦为 on the knitting machine. 406 00:19:39,004 --> 00:19:42,271 成品加工员 In which case, you would become more of a finisher 407 00:19:42,321 --> 00:19:43,230 而非真正的编织者 rather than a knitter. 408 00:19:43,280 --> 00:19:46,250 "编织工"这个称谓将不复存在 I think the term knitter would disappear. 409 00:19:46,300 --> 00:19:47,162 但这是门工艺啊？ And, this is a craft? 410 00:19:47,212 --> 00:19:48,703 真正的手工艺 - 当然是 This is a real genuine - Oh, it is a craft. 411 00:19:48,753 --> 00:19:50,413 不是吗？ - 毫无疑问 handcraft, isn't it? - Oh yes. 412 00:19:50,463 --> 00:19:52,713 这是门真正的工艺 Yes, no, no, it is a craft. 413 00:19:55,785 --> 00:19:57,655 - 费尔岛编织的特色 - The theme of Fair Isle knitting 414 00:19:57,705 --> 00:20:00,066 很大程度上得益于其 owes much to its strategic position 415 00:20:00,116 --> 00:20:01,866 北海战略要冲的位置 in our Northern Seas. 416 00:20:02,751 --> 00:20:05,527 但这个地理位置在二战期间 But, this location was to become a liability 417 00:20:05,577 --> 00:20:07,910 却成为致命弱点 during the Second World War. 418 00:20:10,068 --> 00:20:13,446 1941年圣诞前夕 Just before Christmas 1941, the Luftwaffe 419 00:20:13,496 --> 00:20:15,323 纳粹空军袭击了这座灯塔 attacked this lighthouse. 420 00:20:15,373 --> 00:20:16,774 炸弹夺走了 And, the bombs that fell killed 421 00:20:16,824 --> 00:20:18,469 助理看守员的妻子 the assistant keeper's wife 422 00:20:18,519 --> 00:20:20,593 并重伤其女儿 and badly injured their daughter. 423 00:20:20,643 --> 00:20:23,291 新年刚过几天 And then, just a couple of days after New Year, 424 00:20:23,341 --> 00:20:26,203 德军以更强火力卷土重来 the Germans returned with deadlier force. 425 00:20:26,253 --> 00:20:28,827 这次炸弹炸死了看守员妻子 And, this time, the bombs killed the keeper's wife 426 00:20:28,877 --> 00:20:31,321 女儿和一名守卫灯塔的 and their daughter and a young gunner 427 00:20:31,371 --> 00:20:33,274 年轻炮兵 who was defending the lighthouse. 428 00:20:33,324 --> 00:20:37,491 他们的名字铭刻在此处的纪念碑上 And, their names are commemorated by this plaque over here. 429 00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:41,551 想到即便在如此偏远的 Now, it's terrifying to think that even in 430 00:20:41,601 --> 00:20:43,825 地方 such a remote place as this, 431 00:20:43,875 --> 00:20:46,438 也无人能免受战争摧残 no one was safe from the ravages of war. 432 00:20:49,499 --> 00:20:52,565 但这场不列颠战役中的闪电战 But, this many blitz in the battle of Britain 433 00:20:52,615 --> 00:20:55,115 并非单方面碾压 wasn't all a one-sided affair. 434 00:20:56,017 --> 00:21:00,139 1941年1月 In January 1941, a German Heinkel 435 00:21:00,189 --> 00:21:03,606 一架德军亨克尔战机与皇家空军缠斗后坠毁 came down after a dog fight with the RAF. 436 00:21:04,518 --> 00:21:07,768 这就是战机残骸 And, this is the wreckage of the plane. 437 00:21:09,362 --> 00:21:11,572 战后当天空不再 But, after the war, when the skies 438 00:21:11,622 --> 00:21:13,749 威胁岛屿时 no longer threaten the island, 439 00:21:13,799 --> 00:21:16,405 费尔岛成为另一种 Fair Isle became a target for a different 440 00:21:16,455 --> 00:21:20,628 空中兴趣的目标——确切说是观鸟 kind of aerial interest, twitching or bird watching, 441 00:21:20,678 --> 00:21:22,571 爱好者的圣地 to be precise. 442 00:21:22,621 --> 00:21:25,120 费尔岛是数千海鸟 Fair Isle is an important breeding colony 443 00:21:25,170 --> 00:21:27,006 的重要繁殖地 for thousands of seabirds. 444 00:21:27,056 --> 00:21:31,371 也是候鸟迁徙的关键中转站 It's also a vital stopping off point for migrating birds. 445 00:21:31,421 --> 00:21:33,844 这里发现的稀有物种 And, there are more rare species found here 446 00:21:33,894 --> 00:21:36,341 超过英国任何地方 than anywhere else in the U.K., 447 00:21:36,391 --> 00:21:39,808 使该岛成为观鸟者的天堂 making this island a twitcher's paradise. 448 00:21:42,661 --> 00:21:45,397 - 我们非常期待看到费尔岛鹪鹩 - We are very, very keen to see the Fair Isle Wren 449 00:21:45,447 --> 00:21:47,412 昨天终于得见 and we saw it yesterday. 450 00:21:47,462 --> 00:21:48,545 激动万分 Great thrill. 451 00:21:49,831 --> 00:21:52,171 - 前几日目睹一只鱼鹰 - We saw an osprey the other day 452 00:21:52,221 --> 00:21:54,795 被数只蛎鹬追逐 being pursued by a number of oystercatchers. 453 00:21:54,845 --> 00:21:56,678 精彩绝伦 That was a good sight. 454 00:21:58,471 --> 00:22:01,353 - 本周我们观察到三种 - We've had three, what they call, 455 00:22:01,403 --> 00:22:02,857 英国罕见鸟类 British rarities this week. 456 00:22:02,907 --> 00:22:07,074 布氏苇莺和两只夜鸫 We have bryce reed warbler and two thrush nightingales. 457 00:22:08,454 --> 00:22:10,911 - 我们特别喜爱海鹦 - We are very fond of puffins. 458 00:22:10,961 --> 00:22:13,737 或许不是最惊艳的鸟类 I think it's not the most spectacular bird, maybe, 459 00:22:13,787 --> 00:22:16,370 但绝对是最可爱的 but it's definitely the cutest. 460 00:22:17,958 --> 00:22:20,575 - 费尔岛作为鸟类迁徙研究圣地的 - The unique status of Fair Isle as a place 461 00:22:20,625 --> 00:22:23,684 独特地位 to study and understand bird migration 462 00:22:23,734 --> 00:22:27,129 早在1930年代就得到认可 was first recognized in the 1930's. 463 00:22:27,179 --> 00:22:29,327 如今整座岛屿归 Today, the whole island is owned 464 00:22:29,377 --> 00:22:31,631 苏格兰国家信托所有 by the National Trust for Scotland 465 00:22:31,681 --> 00:22:33,510 旨在保护鸟类 which seeks to encourage birds 466 00:22:33,560 --> 00:22:36,086 及观鸟活动 and bird watchers alike. 467 00:22:36,136 --> 00:22:39,765 为领略此地丰富的鸟类资源 To get an idea of the ornithological riches on offer, 468 00:22:39,815 --> 00:22:43,105 我跟随岛上最热衷观鸟的 I'm joining the island's keenest young bird watcher 469 00:22:43,155 --> 00:22:45,953 少年接受基础指导 for some elementary instruction. 470 00:22:46,003 --> 00:22:48,439 亨利能准确分辨 Henry can certainly tell his bonxies 471 00:22:48,489 --> 00:22:49,984 贼鸥与三趾鸥 from his kittiwakes. 472 00:22:50,034 --> 00:22:53,800 亨利，你觉得今天能看到什么？ Henry, what do you think we're gonna see today? 473 00:22:53,850 --> 00:22:57,126 - 应该有很多海鸟 - Lots of the seabirds really. 474 00:22:57,176 --> 00:23:01,126 或许还能见到一两只海鹦 Also, a lot of, maybe, a puffin or two. 475 00:23:01,176 --> 00:23:02,960 现在不是最佳观鸟季 It's not the best time of the year but 476 00:23:03,010 --> 00:23:05,195 但仍有希望 we might see some. 477 00:23:05,245 --> 00:23:07,553 - 我曾是青年鸟类学家俱乐部 - I was once a proud member 478 00:23:07,603 --> 00:23:10,145 的骄傲成员 of The Young Ornithologist Club. 479 00:23:10,195 --> 00:23:13,876 可惜大多知识都已遗忘 But, sadly, I forgotten most of what I once knew. 480 00:23:13,926 --> 00:23:15,787 希望小亨利能帮我 So, I'm hoping that young Henry 481 00:23:15,837 --> 00:23:18,625 唤醒观鸟记忆 can jog my birdwatcher's memory. 482 00:23:18,675 --> 00:23:19,510 现在能看到什么？ So, what can we see? 483 00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:21,483 下面那些是什么？ What's that down there? 484 00:23:21,533 --> 00:23:25,089 普通海鸦，属于海雀科 They're guillemots, common guillemots. 485 00:23:25,139 --> 00:23:26,213 看起来像企鹅 They look like penguins. 486 00:23:26,263 --> 00:23:29,478 - 它们确实与企鹅有亲缘关系 - I know, they're related to the auk family 487 00:23:29,528 --> 00:23:31,174 同属海雀目 which is sort of the penguin family. 488 00:23:31,224 --> 00:23:32,891 - 真的？ - 我想是的 - Really? - I think. 489 00:23:33,955 --> 00:23:34,907 还有什么？ What else have we got? 490 00:23:34,957 --> 00:23:37,321 那边有很多暴风鹱在筑巢 There's a lot of fulmars nesting over there. 491 00:23:37,371 --> 00:23:39,155 暴风鹱在哪儿？ Yeah, where are the fulmars? 492 00:23:39,205 --> 00:23:42,505 - 看那三只白鸟 - See there's that white bird just above that. 493 00:23:42,555 --> 00:23:43,522 就在上方 There's three birds. 494 00:23:43,572 --> 00:23:45,037 看到了 Oh yeah. 495 00:23:45,087 --> 00:23:47,694 亨利，在你熟悉的海鸟中 Of all the seabirds that you're familiar with, Henry, 496 00:23:47,744 --> 00:23:49,994 最喜欢哪种？ which one is your favorite? 497 00:23:50,869 --> 00:23:53,369 - 这问题好难 - Ooh, that's a hard question. 498 00:23:54,368 --> 00:23:55,161 海鹦呢？ What about puffins? 499 00:23:55,211 --> 00:23:56,025 喜欢海鹦吗？ Do you like puffins? 500 00:23:56,075 --> 00:23:59,470 是的，我确实喜欢海鹦 Yes, I do enjoy puffins actually. 501 00:23:59,520 --> 00:24:01,431 海鹦寿命有多长？ So, how long does a puffin live for then. 502 00:24:01,481 --> 00:24:03,577 - 约36年 - About 36 years. 503 00:24:03,627 --> 00:24:05,731 - 真长寿 - That's a long time. 504 00:24:05,781 --> 00:24:07,609 比你还年长 It's older than you. 505 00:24:07,659 --> 00:24:09,881 几乎是你年龄的四倍 It's almost four times your age. 506 00:24:09,931 --> 00:24:11,161 - 比您还老吗？ - Is it older than you? 507 00:24:11,211 --> 00:24:12,790 - 这个嘛 - 其实没我老 - Uh, well, I'll keep ya guessing. 508 00:24:12,840 --> 00:24:15,007 让你猜猜 Not as old as me actually. 509 00:24:16,539 --> 00:24:18,622 亨利的口音暗示他 There's something about Henry's accent 510 00:24:18,672 --> 00:24:22,355 像是迁徙至此的"候鸟" that suggests he's a bit of a migrating bird himself. 511 00:24:22,405 --> 00:24:25,896 这个猜测在高尔夫球场遇见 A suspicion that's confirmed when I meet his father, 512 00:24:25,946 --> 00:24:29,342 其父艺术家汤米·海因曼时得到证实 artist Tommy Hyndman, on the golf course. 513 00:24:29,392 --> 00:24:31,283 汤米，听口音你 Now, Tommy, I can tell from your accent 514 00:24:31,333 --> 00:24:33,054 不是本地人 that you are not from these parts. 515 00:24:33,104 --> 00:24:34,271 对吧？ Is that right? 516 00:24:35,212 --> 00:24:36,921 - 我来自北美 - I'm from North America. 517 00:24:36,971 --> 00:24:38,700 - 真的？ - 没错 - Really? - Yup. 518 00:24:38,750 --> 00:24:40,179 真令人意外 You surprise me. 519 00:24:40,229 --> 00:24:44,265 - 纽约州萨拉托加泉市人 - Yeah, I'm from Saratoga Springs, New York. 520 00:24:44,315 --> 00:24:47,315 - 汤米已在岛上居住七年 - Tommy has lived on the island for seven years 521 00:24:47,365 --> 00:24:51,869 常在此打球，我毫无胜算 and often plays here so I'm already at a disadvantage. 522 00:24:51,919 --> 00:24:53,883 天气也不作美 The weather's not helping either. 523 00:24:53,933 --> 00:24:56,625 浓雾中几乎看不清 I can hardly see the greens through the fog 524 00:24:56,675 --> 00:25:00,201 这座英国最偏远高尔夫球场的果岭 on this Britain's remotest golf course. 525 00:25:00,251 --> 00:25:04,222 - 当年北方灯塔委员会派遣 - When the Northern Lighthouse Board sent 526 00:25:04,272 --> 00:25:07,475 苏格兰灯塔看守员到费尔岛时 their Scottish lighthouse keepers to Fair Isle, 527 00:25:07,525 --> 00:25:08,809 他们携家带口 they brought with them their families 528 00:25:08,859 --> 00:25:11,815 传承着传统习俗 and their traditions and with it, of course, 529 00:25:11,865 --> 00:25:14,110 自然少不了几套高尔夫球杆 they brought a couple of sets of golf clubs. 530 00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:14,943 - 原来如此 - Right. 531 00:25:14,993 --> 00:25:19,160 - 他们在佃农地上设计了这个迷你球场 - And, on the croft land, they devised a little golf course. 532 00:25:20,725 --> 00:25:23,142 那时人们使用 In those days, they would use 533 00:25:24,051 --> 00:25:25,801 蒸布丁的铁罐 steamed pudding tins. 534 00:25:26,853 --> 00:25:28,136 想必很别致 Fancy, I hope. 535 00:25:28,186 --> 00:25:30,270 没错 这些罐子当球洞 Uh, yes, they'd use those for the holes 536 00:25:30,320 --> 00:25:32,638 旗杆就是插在地上的 and the pin, it wouldn't have a flag on it, 537 00:25:32,688 --> 00:25:36,360 光秃秃的扫帚柄 but it was just a broomstick stuck in the ground. 538 00:25:36,410 --> 00:25:37,598 相当简陋 Pretty rudimentary stuff. 539 00:25:37,648 --> 00:25:39,836 确实原始 Pretty rudimentary stuff. 540 00:25:39,886 --> 00:25:42,494 - 提醒下 我球技不错 - I should just warn you that I'm a pretty good player. 541 00:25:55,887 --> 00:25:57,971 球消失在雾中了 It's disappeared into the mist. 542 00:25:58,021 --> 00:25:59,518 - 我看见了一噢不 我也看到了 - No, I see it. - Oh no, I see it. 543 00:25:59,568 --> 00:26:00,391 飞得老远 It's miles away. 544 00:26:00,441 --> 00:26:01,432 - 还不错 - Not too bad. 545 00:26:01,482 --> 00:26:02,574 - 还行 - Not too bad. 546 00:26:02,624 --> 00:26:05,124 去找球吧 Let's go and find those balls. 547 00:26:06,410 --> 00:26:09,496 说实话 在这球道上找球 To be honest, finding anything on this fairway 548 00:26:09,546 --> 00:26:11,416 可不容易 might be a bit of a problem. 549 00:26:11,466 --> 00:26:14,435 这里现在更像拆迁工地 As it currently looks more like a demolition site 550 00:26:14,485 --> 00:26:16,072 而非高尔夫球场 than a golf course. 551 00:26:16,122 --> 00:26:19,933 幸好只有六个洞 Thankfully, there are just six holes to play. 552 00:26:19,983 --> 00:26:21,128 到处是石头 The place is full of rocks. 553 00:26:21,178 --> 00:26:22,867 这是怎么回事？ Now, what's the story behind that. 554 00:26:22,917 --> 00:26:24,584 - 二月份时 - Well, in February, 555 00:26:27,252 --> 00:26:30,533 灯塔围墙被巨浪 the wall of the lighthouse was washed out by 556 00:26:30,583 --> 00:26:32,453 冲垮了 humongous waves. 557 00:26:32,503 --> 00:26:34,800 事实上 那天的浪高 Matter of fact, they were actually the highest waves 558 00:26:34,850 --> 00:26:36,304 创下世界纪录 in the world that day. 559 00:26:36,354 --> 00:26:37,137 真的？ Really? 560 00:26:37,187 --> 00:26:39,803 - 巨浪摧毁围墙 - They knocked out the walls and smashed 561 00:26:39,853 --> 00:26:42,373 冲进发电机房 into the generator room and 562 00:26:42,423 --> 00:26:44,756 当时相当惊险 it was quite scary actually. 563 00:26:45,826 --> 00:26:47,952 - 我们穿行在废墟间时 - As we pick our way through the rubble, 564 00:26:48,002 --> 00:26:50,235 汤米讲述他如何受 Tommy tells me how he was inspired 565 00:26:50,285 --> 00:26:53,541 费尔岛高尔夫传统启发 by the tradition of Fair Isle golfing. 566 00:26:53,591 --> 00:26:55,651 - 灯塔废弃后 - Course, when the lighthouse was 567 00:26:55,701 --> 00:26:59,189 就没人打球了 decommissioned, no one's golfed since. 568 00:26:59,239 --> 00:27:00,022 我觉得复兴这个传统 I thought, well, that would be 569 00:27:00,072 --> 00:27:01,123 会很有趣 an interesting thing to reinstate. 570 00:27:01,173 --> 00:27:03,300 除了观鸟还能多个项目 It'd be something besides bird watching. 571 00:27:03,350 --> 00:27:04,889 - 所以是旅游卖点 - So, it's a tourist attraction. 572 00:27:04,939 --> 00:27:05,772 - 没错 - Yeah. 573 00:27:09,151 --> 00:27:10,893 - 或许是在如此独特 - Perhaps, it's the thought of playing 574 00:27:10,943 --> 00:27:13,442 偏远球场竞技的念头 such a unique and remote course 575 00:27:13,492 --> 00:27:17,173 激发了我的胜负欲 that sharpens my competitive instincts. 576 00:27:17,223 --> 00:27:18,006 见鬼 Damn it. 577 00:27:18,056 --> 00:27:20,421 于是悠闲的高尔夫 And so, a leisurely round of golf 578 00:27:20,471 --> 00:27:22,702 变成巅峰对决 becomes a clash of titans 579 00:27:22,752 --> 00:27:25,335 直到最后一洞果岭 until we're on the final green. 580 00:27:26,455 --> 00:27:28,455 噢不 停住 Oh no, no, stop. 581 00:27:30,703 --> 00:27:31,953 - 进海里了 - Into the sea. 582 00:27:34,487 --> 00:27:38,350 - 看来我出局了 - Well, I think that's me out the game really. 583 00:27:38,400 --> 00:27:41,650 现在压力全在你这了 汤米 There's a lot at stake here now, Tommy. 584 00:27:45,409 --> 00:27:46,735 您真是绅士 You're a gentleman, sir. 585 00:27:46,785 --> 00:27:48,015 打得很尽兴 I enjoyed that. 586 00:27:56,108 --> 00:27:58,799 随着雾气消散 The humiliation of my golfing defeat 587 00:27:58,849 --> 00:28:02,169 我高尔夫失利的尴尬也烟消云散 lifts with the mist, revealing Fair Isle 588 00:28:02,219 --> 00:28:06,062 落日余晖中的费尔岛 touched by the light of the setting sun. 589 00:28:06,112 --> 00:28:08,537 攀上陡峭的岩石岬角 Climbing a steep and rocky headland, 590 00:28:08,587 --> 00:28:11,598 这座神奇宁静岛屿的 I'm stunned by the beauty of this magical, 591 00:28:11,648 --> 00:28:12,981 美景令我震撼 peaceful island. 592 00:28:15,774 --> 00:28:19,033 还有什么比在这绝美悬崖 What better way for me to end my grand tour 593 00:28:19,083 --> 00:28:21,518 观赏海上落日更适合 of Foula and Fair Isle than to watch 594 00:28:21,568 --> 00:28:24,032 为富拉岛和费尔岛之旅 the sun set over the sea 595 00:28:24,082 --> 00:28:26,332 画上句号呢 from these fabulous cliffs. 596 00:28:29,479 --> 00:28:33,909 下次大环游请随我南下 Join me on my next grand tour when I'll be voyaging south 597 00:28:33,959 --> 00:28:36,936 探访罗蒙湖 to experience the delights of Loch Lomond 598 00:28:36,986 --> 00:28:39,319 及其内陆岛屿 and it's landlocked islands.