1  
00:00:07,640 --> 00:00:10,440  
苏格兰西南部的艾尔河有着千姿百态，  
The River Ayr in south-west Scotland has many faces,  

2  
00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:12,720  
风情万种，个性迥异。  
moods and characters.  

3  
00:00:13,840 --> 00:00:16,840  
这条隐秘而常被遗忘的河流，  
This secretive, sometimes half-forgotten river  

4  
00:00:16,840 --> 00:00:21,240  
自威廉·华莱士时代起就是灵感源泉、发明沃土、工业财富  
has been a source of inspiration, invention, industrial wealth  

5  
00:00:21,240 --> 00:00:25,440  
与爱国热情的摇篮。  
and patriotic fervour since the days of William Wallace.  

6  
00:00:28,800 --> 00:00:31,720  
苏格兰的河流——民族的摇篮——  
Scotland's rivers - the cradle of the nation -  

7  
00:00:31,720 --> 00:00:34,840  
是这个国度最珍贵的宝藏之一。  
are among the country's greatest treasures.  

8  
00:00:37,600 --> 00:00:42,360  
自远古时代起，河流就是天然的高速通道。  
Since the earliest times, rivers have been used as natural highways.  

9  
00:00:42,360 --> 00:00:45,680  
河岸两侧孕育了最早的城镇。  
Along their banks, the first towns and cities were built.  

10  
00:00:45,680 --> 00:00:47,720  
作为自然资源，  
And as a natural resource,  

11  
00:00:47,720 --> 00:00:51,480  
河流为我们提供了丰富的食物与动力。  
rivers have provided us with an abundance of food and power.  

12  
00:00:55,280 --> 00:00:58,240  
在本系列中，我将遇见一群  
In this series, I'll meet a cast of characters  

13  
00:00:58,240 --> 00:01:01,760  
居住在这些伟大水道沿岸的人物，  
who live along the banks of our great waterways.  

14  
00:01:01,760 --> 00:01:06,080  
在穿越苏格兰的壮阔旅程中揭开往昔的迷人故事，  
uncovering intriguing tales from the past as I travel across Scotland  

15  
00:01:06,080 --> 00:01:11,560  
探索生命之水的起源。  
on a grand tour to explore the original waters of life.  

16  
00:01:11,560 --> 00:01:15,360  
这场壮游中，我将探访神秘藏身之所...  
On this grand tour, I explore mysterious hideouts...  

17  
00:01:15,360 --> 00:01:17,840  
17世纪的黑暗岁月。  
17th century darkness.  

18  
00:01:17,840 --> 00:01:19,680  
...体验照明革命...  
..experiment with illumination...  

19  
00:01:19,680 --> 00:01:22,520  
谁能想到这一切始于一个男孩、一把水壶...  
Just to think it all started with a wee boy, a kettle...  

20  
00:01:22,520 --> 00:01:24,160  
和一颗求知若渴的心。  
And an inquiring mind.  

21  
00:01:24,160 --> 00:01:27,160  
...并惊叹于世界级的石材...  
..and take a shine to world-class stone...  

22  
00:01:27,160 --> 00:01:29,240  
这太震撼了。  
This is very brutal.  

23  
00:01:29,240 --> 00:01:33,840  
...沿着这条历史与矿藏同样丰饶的河流开启旅程。  
..as I journey down a river as rich in history as it is in minerals.  

24  
00:01:46,000 --> 00:01:49,400  
我的旅程始于东艾尔郡的崇山峻岭，  
My journey starts high in the hills of East Ayrshire  

25  
00:01:49,400 --> 00:01:53,440  
沿着艾尔河穿越后工业景观，  
and follows the River Ayr through a post-industrial landscape  

26  
00:01:53,440 --> 00:01:57,320  
那里曾有盟约者在铅灰色天空下祈祷，  
where Covenanters once worshipped under leaden skies  

27  
00:01:57,320 --> 00:02:00,600  
穿过风景如画的峡谷抵达艾尔镇，  
through a picturesque gorge to the town of Ayr,  

28  
00:02:00,600 --> 00:02:03,400  
最终在海滩结束行程。  
where I'll end my journey on the beach.  

29  
00:02:04,760 --> 00:02:07,320  
我来到野兔山丘之巅，  
I've come to the top of Hareshaw Hill  

30  
00:02:07,320 --> 00:02:09,720  
俯瞰艾尔河全貌  
to get an overview of the River Ayr  

31  
00:02:09,720 --> 00:02:12,360  
及即将踏上的路线。  
and the route I'm about to embark on.  

32  
00:02:12,360 --> 00:02:15,240  
过去十余年间，这片荒凉的沼泽地  
Throughout the last decade or so, the bleak moorland  

33  
00:02:15,240 --> 00:02:18,880  
已蜕变为风力发电机的森林，  
has been transformed into a forest of wind turbines,  

34  
00:02:18,880 --> 00:02:22,360  
为约四万户家庭供电。  
generating electricity for around 40,000 homes.  

35  
00:02:24,440 --> 00:02:26,240  
如此巨型风机  
Giant turbines like this one  

36  
00:02:26,240 --> 00:02:29,080  
代表着未来能源的方向，  
represent the future of power generation  

37  
00:02:29,080 --> 00:02:32,520  
与工业革命的黑色燃料  
and stand in stark contrast to the black stuff  

38  
00:02:32,520 --> 00:02:35,480  
形成鲜明对比。  
that fuelled the Industrial Revolution.  

39  
00:02:35,480 --> 00:02:40,320  
眼前是三百余年煤矿开采的伤痕，  
In front of me are the scars of over 300 years of coal extraction,  

40  
00:02:40,320 --> 00:02:45,160  
矿井和露天矿场吞噬了  
where mines and then open-cast workings devoured the landscape  

41  
00:02:45,160 --> 00:02:47,240  
艾尔河沿岸的风景。  
around the River Ayr.  

42  
00:02:51,360 --> 00:02:55,440  
下山途中，我前往格伦巴克湖，  
Coming down from the hills, I make my way to Glenbuck Loch,  

43  
00:02:55,440 --> 00:02:59,200  
其名源于现已荒废的邻村。  
which takes its name from a now vacant neighbouring village.  

44  
00:03:02,120 --> 00:03:06,760  
这里是格伦巴克湖——艾尔河的正式源头。  
This is Glenbuck Loch - the official start of the River Ayr.  

45  
00:03:06,760 --> 00:03:09,400  
虽然真正的源头来自格伦巴克村  
Although the actual headwaters drain from the hills  

46  
00:03:09,400 --> 00:03:11,480  
上方的山峦，  
above Glenbuck village  

47  
00:03:11,480 --> 00:03:14,720  
不得不说这里美得令人心醉。  
And I have to say, it's really rather lovely.  

48  
00:03:21,440 --> 00:03:24,760  
格伦巴克村曾坐落于湖西北部，  
Glenbuck village once stood to the north-west of the loch  

49  
00:03:24,760 --> 00:03:27,520  
艾尔河的一条支流畔。  
on a tributary of the River Ayr.  

50  
00:03:27,520 --> 00:03:31,240  
19世纪末发现大量煤矿后，  
It saw much growth when vast deposits of coal were discovered  

51  
00:03:31,240 --> 00:03:33,920  
村庄迅速扩张。  
in the late 19th century.  

52  
00:03:33,920 --> 00:03:36,840  
矿工们世代在此生活劳作，  
Here, miners lived and worked for generations,  

53  
00:03:36,840 --> 00:03:40,720  
每日直面危险，忍受极度贫困。  
facing danger and enduring grinding poverty every day.  

54  
00:03:42,800 --> 00:03:46,640  
尽管格伦巴克村民历经艰辛，  
Despite the hardships endured by the good folk of Glenbuck,  

55  
00:03:46,640 --> 00:03:51,520  
或许正因如此，许多年轻人试图逃离，  
or perhaps because of them, many youngsters sought to find a way out  

56  
00:03:51,520 --> 00:03:55,920  
有些人通过足球获得了辉煌成就。  
and some did magnificently well through the game of football.  

57  
00:03:57,600 --> 00:03:59,480  
（人群欢呼声）  
CROWD ROARS  

58  
00:03:59,480 --> 00:04:02,920  
我拜访了芭芭拉·亚历山大，了解  
I've come to meet Barbara Alexander to find out about  

59  
00:04:02,920 --> 00:04:07,000  
足球对格伦巴克矿区的意义。  
the importance of football to the mining community of Glenbuck.  

60  
00:04:07,000 --> 00:04:10,760  
他们出矿井后，可能十五人一组  
They would come up the pit and it would be maybe 15 on a side  

61  
00:04:10,760 --> 00:04:13,320  
踢足球，要知道那时候...  
that they played football, you know, and it was...  

62  
00:04:13,320 --> 00:04:15,360  
用的甚至不一定是足球。  
Wasnae always a football they played with.  

63  
00:04:15,360 --> 00:04:17,480  
可能只是个铁罐之类。  
It'd maybe be a tin can or something.  

64  
00:04:17,480 --> 00:04:21,640  
这...太艰苦了！这就是他们的生活，是的。  
That's... That's desperate! That was their way of life, yes.  

65  
00:04:21,640 --> 00:04:23,800  
这就是他们的训练方式。  
And that was them practising.  

66  
00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,760  
这个小村庄成了足球工厂，  
This tiny village became a football factory,  

67  
00:04:26,760 --> 00:04:30,920  
培育出闪耀全英的国家级球星。  
breeding national stars who would play across the whole of the UK.  

68  
00:04:30,920 --> 00:04:34,120  
这些球员大多曾在矿区工作，  
The vast majority of these men worked in the mines  

69  
00:04:34,120 --> 00:04:37,200  
年少时效力于镇上的业余球队——  
and in their youth played for the town's amateur team,  

70  
00:04:37,200 --> 00:04:39,840  
格伦巴克樱桃采摘者队。  
the Glenbuck Cherrypickers.  

71  
00:04:39,840 --> 00:04:43,880  
这85人曾效力樱桃采摘者队，  
These 85 people played with the Cherrypickers  

72  
00:04:43,880 --> 00:04:46,600  
其中53人成为职业球员。  
and 53 played professional.  

73  
00:04:46,600 --> 00:04:50,200  
两人加入托特纳姆热刺。  
Two of them went to Tottenham Hotspur.  

74  
00:04:50,200 --> 00:04:53,520  
桑迪·泰特和桑迪·布朗。  
Sandy Tait and Sandy Brown.  

75  
00:04:53,520 --> 00:04:58,840  
1900年托特纳姆热刺赢得足总杯时，  
And that was the year 1900, when Tottenham Hotspur won the FA Cup.  

76  
00:04:58,840 --> 00:05:02,120  
奖杯曾陈列在格伦巴克合作社的橱窗里，  
And the FA Cup was in the Co-operative window in Glenbuck,  

77  
00:05:02,120 --> 00:05:05,120  
难以置信吧？ 真的吗？  
would you believe? Really?  

78  
00:05:05,120 --> 00:05:08,720  
尚克利家五兄弟。嗯。  
There are five Shankly brothers. Uh-huh.  

79  
00:05:08,720 --> 00:05:10,640  
都是职业球员。  
They were all professional.  

80  
00:05:10,640 --> 00:05:14,720  
我祖母姓布莱斯。  
And my grandma's name was Blyth.  

81  
00:05:14,720 --> 00:05:17,720  
她的哥哥，罗伯·布莱斯舅舅，  
And her brother, uncle Rob Blyth,  

82  
00:05:17,720 --> 00:05:21,720  
曾效力流浪者队，这是家族传统。  
played with the Rangers, so it was in the family.  

83  
00:05:21,720 --> 00:05:24,240  
足球是家族血脉。  
The football was in the family.  

84  
00:05:24,240 --> 00:05:28,960  
格伦巴克最伟大的足球遗产是传奇人物比尔·尚克利，  
Glenbuck's greatest football legacy is the legend Bill Shankly,  

85  
00:05:28,960 --> 00:05:33,560  
利物浦足球俱乐部史上最具标志性的主帅，  
the most iconic figure in the history of Liverpool Football Club,  

86  
00:05:33,560 --> 00:05:38,880  
1959至1974年执掌教鞭。  
where he served as manager from 1959 to 1974.  

87  
00:05:38,880 --> 00:05:43,240  
他任期内将利物浦带入甲级联赛，  
During his time in charge, Liverpool was promoted to the First Division  

88  
00:05:43,240 --> 00:05:46,320  
三夺甲级联赛冠军，  
and went on to win three First Division titles,  

89  
00:05:46,320 --> 00:05:50,160  
两获足总杯，一次欧洲联盟杯。  
two FA Cups and one UEFA Cup.  

90  
00:05:50,160 --> 00:05:52,360  
比尔·尚克利是我舅舅。  
Bill Shankly was my uncle.  

91  
00:05:52,360 --> 00:05:56,920  
他是怎样的人？比尔是个真诚的人。  
What kind of man was he? Bill Shankly was a genuine man.  

92  
00:05:56,920 --> 00:05:58,720  
他不想下矿井。  
He didnae want to go down the pits.  

93  
00:05:58,720 --> 00:06:01,840  
迫于生计才去。  
He had to go down the pits for financial reasons.  

94  
00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:04,640  
他立志成为足球运动员。  
He knew he wanted to be a football player.  

95  
00:06:04,640 --> 00:06:09,280  
尽管格伦巴克孕育了伟大球星，  
Despite Glenbuck producing some of the greatest footballing heroes,  

96  
00:06:09,280 --> 00:06:15,160  
采矿业却日渐式微，最后一座矿井于1933年关闭。  
mining wasn't as successful, and in 1933 the last pit closed.  

97  
00:06:15,160 --> 00:06:18,680  
格伦巴克社区陷入长期衰败，  
The community of Glenbuck fell into a lengthy decline  

98  
00:06:18,680 --> 00:06:21,600  
最后一批居民在1970年代迁离，  
and the last residents left in the 1970s  

99  
00:06:21,600 --> 00:06:23,840  
为露天采矿让路。  
to make way for open-cast mining.  

100  
00:06:25,080 --> 00:06:28,840  
70年代初我离开格伦巴克，因父母去世，  
I left Glenbuck in the early '70s because Mum and Dad died,  

101  
00:06:28,840 --> 00:06:31,520  
我身体不好只得搬到穆尔柯克。  
I wasnae well and had to move to Muirkirk.  

102  
00:06:31,520 --> 00:06:36,160  
直到1997年才重返故地。  
And I was never in Glenbuck until '97 after that.  

103  
00:06:36,160 --> 00:06:41,800  
97年回来时这里已空无一物——最令人心碎。  
By '97, when I come up, there was nothing - and that was the sad bit.  

104  
00:06:41,800 --> 00:06:43,840  
你不想格伦巴克被遗忘。  
And you don't want Glenbuck to be forgotten.  

105  
00:06:43,840 --> 00:06:45,040  
绝不愿意。  
Definitely not.  

106  
00:06:45,040 --> 00:06:47,600  
因为艾尔郡有许多村庄  
Because there are so many villages in Ayrshire  

107  
00:06:47,600 --> 00:06:49,360  
都已湮没无闻。  
that's forgotten villages.  

108  
00:06:49,360 --> 00:06:52,320  
我知道许多人对格伦巴克怀有  
And I know many folk coming along that's interested in Glenbuck,  

109  
00:06:52,320 --> 00:06:55,320  
与我们同样的热忱。  
that's got the same interest in it as we have.  

110  
00:06:55,320 --> 00:06:59,160  
它即将被遗忘，我们绝不能允许。  
It's going to be forgotten, so we cannae let that happen.  

111  
00:07:01,600 --> 00:07:05,040  
带着芭芭拉守护历史的热忱，  
With Barbara's passion for keeping our histories alive  

112  
00:07:05,040 --> 00:07:08,840  
我继续探索  
instilled in my mind, I set out on my journey  

113  
00:07:08,840 --> 00:07:13,040  
艾尔河更丰富的往昔。  
to explore more of the River Ayr's abundant past.  

114  
00:07:13,040 --> 00:07:15,760  
距离湖泊下游几英里处，  
A couple of miles downstream from the loch  

115  
00:07:15,760 --> 00:07:19,600  
艾尔河还只是涓涓细流，  
and the River Ayr is not much more than a trickle, really,  

116  
00:07:19,600 --> 00:07:22,600  
河畔的艾尔之路，  
and following it is the Ayr Way,  

117  
00:07:22,600 --> 00:07:27,480  
可惜并非空中走廊，  
which, rather disappointingly, is not an aerial thoroughfare,  

118  
00:07:27,480 --> 00:07:31,120  
而是一条直达海滨艾尔镇的长途步道。  
but a long-distance path which goes all the way to the town of Ayr  

119  
00:07:31,120 --> 00:07:32,680  
by the sea.  

120  
00:07:35,800 --> 00:07:38,880  
艾尔之路旁是穆尔柯克村，  
Just off the Ayr Way is the village of Muirkirk,  

121  
00:07:38,880 --> 00:07:43,280  
这座老矿村曾因煤炭繁荣一时。  
an old mining village that once prospered through coal production.  

122  
00:07:43,280 --> 00:07:47,960  
19世纪时，这里曾拥有项崭新奢侈品。  
In the 19th century, it treated itself to a new and modern luxury.  

123  
00:07:49,280 --> 00:07:52,840  
令人惊叹的是，穆尔柯克自称是英国首个  
Amazingly, Muirkirk claims to be the first town in Britain  

124  
00:07:52,840 --> 00:07:54,680  
使用煤气照明的城镇。  
to have gas lighting.  

125  
00:07:54,680 --> 00:07:59,120  
短短几十年内，欧美城镇纷纷效仿  
And within just a few decades, towns and cities across Europe and America  

126  
00:07:59,120 --> 00:08:01,720  
穆尔柯克这项开创性的  
were following Muirkirk's trailblazing  

127  
00:08:01,720 --> 00:08:03,800  
光明典范。  
and enlightened example.  

128  
00:08:05,640 --> 00:08:08,080  
煤气照明的发明归功于  
The discovery of coal gas for lighting  

129  
00:08:08,080 --> 00:08:10,600  
1754年生于附近卢加尔村的  
is credited to William Murdoch,  

130  
00:08:10,600 --> 00:08:14,280  
威廉·默多克。  
who was born in the nearby village of Lugar in 1754.

131  
00:08:15,360 --> 00:08:18,880  
如同另一位苏格兰发明家詹姆斯·瓦特，  
Like another famous Scottish inventor, James Watt,  

132  
00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:22,440  
年幼的默多克也曾摆弄过水壶。  
Murdoch played with a kettle when he was a wee boy.  

133  
00:08:22,440 --> 00:08:25,760  
瓦特因发现沸水顶起壶盖时  
Now, Watt famously realised the potential of steam power  

134  
00:08:25,760 --> 00:08:29,040  
蒸汽动力的潜力而闻名于世。  
when boiling water lifted a kettle's lid.  

135  
00:08:29,040 --> 00:08:34,320  
而默多克在壶中装满煤粉置于火上，  
Now, Murdoch filled his kettle with coal dust, put it over a fire,  

136  
00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:37,320  
结果可谓光芒万丈。  
and the results were, well, illuminating.  

137  
00:08:40,400 --> 00:08:42,960  
为理解这把水壶的意义，  
To help understand the significance of the kettle,  

138  
00:08:42,960 --> 00:08:45,360  
我们重回课堂，  
it's time to go back to the classroom,  

139  
00:08:45,360 --> 00:08:49,600  
科学讲师德里克·沃尔斯将演示煤气提取。  
where science lecturer Derek Walls shows me how to gas off.  

140  
00:08:49,600 --> 00:08:52,760  
这支沸腾管装有煤粉。嗯。  
So we've got a boiling tube here that contains coal. Uh-huh.  

141  
00:08:52,760 --> 00:08:55,920  
模拟水壶主体。明白。  
That replicates the body of the kettle. Right.  

142  
00:08:55,920 --> 00:08:59,200  
橡胶塞相当于壶盖。嗯。  
We've got a rubber bung, which is the lid. Uh-huh.  

143  
00:08:59,200 --> 00:09:04,280  
橡胶塞能隔绝煤粉与空气。  
The rubber bung is important to exclude air from the coal.  

144  
00:09:04,280 --> 00:09:07,280  
这是壶嘴部分。  
And then we've got our spout of our kettle.  

145  
00:09:07,280 --> 00:09:11,480  
通过导管，默多克会点燃  
With a delivery tube, Murdoch would set the gas alight,  

146  
00:09:11,480 --> 00:09:14,080  
从壶嘴冒出的气体。  
coming out of the spout of his kettle.  

147  
00:09:14,080 --> 00:09:16,960  
我们采用更可控的方式，  
We're going to do it in a slightly more controlled manner,  

148  
00:09:16,960 --> 00:09:19,600  
让气体通过泡沫溶液，  
just bubbling it through a bubble solution,  

149  
00:09:19,600 --> 00:09:23,080  
将可燃的照明气体收集在  
and that'll trap the flammable or illuminating gas  

150  
00:09:23,080 --> 00:09:25,800  
这个泡沫混合器中。  
inside our bubble mixer, here.  

151  
00:09:25,800 --> 00:09:31,240  
现在开始剧烈加热煤粉。  
OK. So we're going to start just by vigorously heating the coal.  

152  
00:09:32,640 --> 00:09:35,720  
需要较强的本生灯火焰。  
We need quite a strong Bunsen flame.  

153  
00:09:35,720 --> 00:09:37,680  
可靠的本生灯。  
Trusty Bunsen.  

154  
00:09:37,680 --> 00:09:41,000  
煤粉受热分解后  
As we heat the coal, it begins to break down  

155  
00:09:41,000 --> 00:09:44,560  
会产生三种物质。  
and we're left with three products as a result.  

156  
00:09:44,560 --> 00:09:47,400  
首先是煤的气态成分。  
We're getting the gaseous component of the coal.  

157  
00:09:47,400 --> 00:09:50,280  
液态的煤焦油，  
We're getting the coal tar, the liquid component,  

158  
00:09:50,280 --> 00:09:54,080  
以及固态的煤渣。  
and we'll be left with the solid component of the coal.  

159  
00:09:54,080 --> 00:09:57,960  
能看到气体穿过试管中的煤粉  
You can actually see the gas flowing up through the coal  

160  
00:09:57,960 --> 00:10:00,760  
向上流动。哦，看到了。  
in the test tube. Oh, I see that.  

161  
00:10:00,760 --> 00:10:02,840  
煤气主要包含  
The three main components of coal gas  

162  
00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,840  
氢气、甲烷和一氧化碳。  
are hydrogen, methane and carbon monoxide.  

163  
00:10:05,840 --> 00:10:09,000  
氢气与甲烷混合具有可燃性，  
The combination of hydrogen and methane is flammable,  

164  
00:10:09,000 --> 00:10:12,560  
我们正试图重现  
and the combustion of these gases is what we're looking for  

165  
00:10:12,560 --> 00:10:15,440  
默多克发现的这种燃烧现象。  
to recreate Murdoch's discovery.  

166  
00:10:15,440 --> 00:10:17,640  
见证奇迹的时刻到了。  
Time for the moment of truth.  

167  
00:10:17,640 --> 00:10:20,880  
若成功的话，默多克会为此兴奋。没错。  
This would have excited Murdoch, if it works. Yeah.  

168  
00:10:20,880 --> 00:10:23,400  
哇！成功了！快看！  
Whoa! There you go. Look at that!  

169  
00:10:24,400 --> 00:10:26,080  
可以持续点燃。  
And we can continue doing that.  

170  
00:10:26,080 --> 00:10:28,320  
让气泡不断积聚。  
Just let the bubbles build up.  

171  
00:10:28,320 --> 00:10:31,680  
哇！相当壮观。又成功了。  
Whoa! It's quite impressive. There you go.  

172  
00:10:31,680 --> 00:10:33,440  
这些气体能量惊人。  
There's a lot of energy in that gas.  

173  
00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:38,360  
默多克最终在户外重现了实验。哇！  
Murdoch was eventually able to reproduce his feat outside. Whoa!  

174  
00:10:38,360 --> 00:10:40,880  
煤气路灯由此诞生。  
And gas street lights were born.  

175  
00:10:40,880 --> 00:10:43,400  
想想看，这一切始于一个男孩、一把水壶、  
Just to think, it all started with a wee boy, a kettle  

176  
00:10:43,400 --> 00:10:46,440  
些许煤粉，和一颗求知的心。  
and some coal dust, and an inquiring mind.  

177  
00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:53,960  
带着实验室的余晖，我重返旅途，  
Leaving the lab sufficiently aglow, I returned to my route,  

178  
00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:58,640  
幼年的艾尔河正流过穆尔柯克南郊。  
where the infant River Ayr skirts to the south of Muirkirk.  

179  
00:10:58,640 --> 00:11:00,680  
河流穿行的这片土地  
The river flows through a landscape  

180  
00:11:00,680 --> 00:11:03,920  
布满矿物开采的伤痕，  
covered with the scars of mineral extraction,  

181  
00:11:03,920 --> 00:11:06,520  
宛如月球的陨石坑表面。  
like the pockmarked surface of the Moon.  

182  
00:11:06,520 --> 00:11:10,040  
煤矿、石灰石矿场、冶炼厂  
This is all that's left of the coal mines, lime quarries,  

183  
00:11:10,040 --> 00:11:13,440  
和焦油窑的残迹，  
smelters and tar kilns that once brought wealth  

184  
00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:15,360  
是昔日艾尔郡繁荣的见证。  
to this part of Ayrshire.  

185  
00:11:16,560 --> 00:11:20,240  
当地巨型焦油窑生产的  
Coal tar, which was produced here in great kilns,  

186  
00:11:20,240 --> 00:11:23,200  
煤焦油还激发了另一位企业家的  
also inspired another entrepreneurial local  

187  
00:11:23,200 --> 00:11:24,840  
伟大创想。  
to great things.  

188  
00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:28,480  
约翰·劳登·麦克亚当，  
His name was John Loudon McAdam, and he's credited with having  

189  
00:11:28,480 --> 00:11:32,280  
他革新了筑路技术。  
revolutionised road-building techniques.  

190  
00:11:32,280 --> 00:11:35,360  
这座石冢是为纪念他而建。  
And this cairn is dedicated to his memory.  

191  
00:11:37,360 --> 00:11:40,200  
麦克亚当生于1756年，  
McAdam was born in 1756,  

192  
00:11:40,200 --> 00:11:43,680  
在美国经商致富后，  
and he made his fortune in America as a prosperous merchant.  

193  
00:11:43,680 --> 00:11:46,480  
1783年返回苏格兰，  
He returned to Scotland in 1783  

194  
00:11:46,480 --> 00:11:50,560  
大力投资焦油制造业。  
and invested heavily in the manufacture of tar.  

195  
00:11:50,560 --> 00:11:53,920  
他的筑路技术被称为"麦克亚当法"。  
His road-building technique was known as McAdamisation.  

196  
00:11:53,920 --> 00:11:57,560  
将均匀的棱角碎石铺设后  
Small, single-size angular stones are laid down  

197  
00:11:57,560 --> 00:11:59,360  
充分压实。  
and compacted thoroughly.  

198  
00:11:59,360 --> 00:12:02,840  
这在当时被视为尖端技术。  
It was considered state-of-the-art at the time.  

199  
00:12:02,840 --> 00:12:05,960  
麦克亚当的革命性筑路技术  
McAdam's revolutionary road-building techniques  

200  
00:12:05,960 --> 00:12:09,200  
迅速风靡欧洲乃至全球，  
were quickly adopted across Europe and then the world,  

201  
00:12:09,200 --> 00:12:14,640  
当焦油被用于密封路面时，沥青由此诞生。  
and when tar was later added to seal the surface, tarmac was born.  

202  
00:12:14,640 --> 00:12:16,840  
此后半个地球的陆地表面  
And since then, of course, half the planet  

203  
00:12:16,840 --> 00:12:19,960  
似乎都被这种材料覆盖。  
seems to have been covered with the stuff.  

204  
00:12:19,960 --> 00:12:22,080  
想想看——一切都始于此。  
Just think - it all began here.  

205  
00:12:27,640 --> 00:12:31,120  
离开麦克亚当石冢，我顺流而下  
Leaving McAdam's cairn, I follow the river downstream  

206  
00:12:31,120 --> 00:12:33,760  
来到卡特琳村，  
until I reach the village of Catrine,  

207  
00:12:33,760 --> 00:12:36,720  
这里曾巨轮飞转。  
where once mighty mill wheels turned.  

208  
00:12:38,760 --> 00:12:40,600  
18世纪时，  
In the 18th century,  

209  
00:12:40,600 --> 00:12:43,680  
卡特琳只是几户人家的小村落。  
Catrine was a tiny settlement of just a few houses.  

210  
00:12:43,680 --> 00:12:49,200  
1787年棉纺厂开业后，村庄借艾尔河水力  
Then in 1787, a cotton mill opened and the village grew rapidly,  

211  
00:12:49,200 --> 00:12:52,000  
迅速扩张。  
powered by the water of the River Ayr.  

212  
00:12:53,320 --> 00:12:56,960  
运转120余年的水车轮，  
The mill wheels, which turned for over 120 years,  

213  
00:12:56,960 --> 00:12:59,040  
曾是全英最大。  
were the biggest in the land.  

214  
00:12:59,040 --> 00:13:03,640  
50英尺高的巨轮被誉为"卡特琳雄狮"。  
Standing 50 feet tall, they were known as the Lions of Catrine.  

215  
00:13:04,920 --> 00:13:07,520  
驱动巨轮的水源  
Now, the water that powered the great wheels  

216  
00:13:07,520 --> 00:13:12,320  
储存在名为"水坞"的系列水库中。  
was stored in a series of reservoirs known as the voes.  

217  
00:13:12,320 --> 00:13:15,000  
就是眼前这些。  
And these are they.  

218  
00:13:15,000 --> 00:13:18,360  
水坞的水量由15英里外  
The water in the voes was controlled by sluice gates  

219  
00:13:18,360 --> 00:13:20,720  
格伦巴克湖的闸门控制，  
up at Glenbuck Loch, which is, what,  

220  
00:13:20,720 --> 00:13:24,160  
闸门夜间开启，水流12小时  
about 15 miles or so further upstream.  

221  
00:13:24,160 --> 00:13:27,560  
抵达水坞——正好赶上早班开工。  
The sluices were opened at night and it took 12 hours  

222  
00:13:27,560 --> 00:13:31,960  
for the water to reach the voes - just in time for the first shift.  

223  
00:13:36,480 --> 00:13:38,120  
如今厂房虽已消失，  
The mills are gone now,  

224  
00:13:38,120 --> 00:13:41,640  
但拦河坝与闸门的精妙工程  
but you can still see the incredible engineering of the weir  

225  
00:13:41,640 --> 00:13:45,240  
仍见证着当年驯服水流的壮举。  
and sluices that harness the water from the river.  

226  
00:13:45,240 --> 00:13:49,320  
水坞重归自然倒是件好事。  
And it's good news for the voes, as they returned to nature.  

227  
00:13:51,120 --> 00:13:54,480  
工业革命的兴衰塑造了  
The rise and fall of the Industrial Revolution has shaped the story  

228  
00:13:54,480 --> 00:13:56,880  
艾尔河沿岸的众多故事。  
of many places along the River Ayr.  

229  
00:13:56,880 --> 00:13:59,600  
卡特琳的工业遗迹所剩无几，  
Now, in Catrine, there isn't much of that heritage left,  

230  
00:13:59,600 --> 00:14:03,640  
但河畔保存着维多利亚时代的奇迹，  
but just along the river is a wonder of the Victorian age  

231  
00:14:03,640 --> 00:14:07,480  
见证着先辈的雄心  
that survives as a testament to the ambition and enterprise  

232  
00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:09,080  
与魄力。  
of past generations.  

233  
00:14:09,080 --> 00:14:13,200  
巴洛赫米尔高架桥——就在前方。  
And it's the Ballochmyle Viaduct - and it's just over here.  

234  
00:14:14,560 --> 00:14:19,200  
1848年竣工时，其181英尺的石拱  
Completed in 1848, the viaduct had the longest masonry arch  

235  
00:14:19,200 --> 00:14:22,480  
冠绝全球。  
in the world at 181 feet.  

236  
00:14:22,480 --> 00:14:27,040  
至今仍是史上最宏大的建筑之一。  
And it remains amongst the largest ever constructed to this day.  

237  
00:14:27,040 --> 00:14:32,160  
桥高52米（169英尺），  
Traversing the river at a height of 52 metres - that's 169 feet -  

238  
00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:35,280  
采用本地砂岩建造，  
the bridge is built out of locally-quarried sandstone,  

239  
00:14:35,280 --> 00:14:38,520  
与支撑它的悬崖浑然一体，  
which gives the impression that it's part of the landscape,  

240  
00:14:38,520 --> 00:14:41,440  
仿佛自然生长而成。  
growing out of the cliff face that supports it.  

241  
00:14:41,440 --> 00:14:44,160  
这座至今仍通行格拉斯哥列车的  
Now, not surprisingly, this wonderful bridge,  

242  
00:14:44,160 --> 00:14:46,400  
杰作毫无悬念地  
which still carries the Glasgow railway,  

243  
00:14:46,400 --> 00:14:51,560  
被列为国家历史土木工程地标。  
has been designated as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.  

244  
00:14:51,560 --> 00:14:53,120  
实至名归。  
And quite right, too.  

245  
00:14:56,720 --> 00:14:59,080  
暂别艾尔河，  
Taking a diversion away from the River Ayr,  

246  
00:14:59,080 --> 00:15:01,880  
我沿旧铁路线来到莫赫林，  
I follow the line of the old railway to Mauchline,  

247  
00:15:01,880 --> 00:15:07,280  
这座因民族诗人罗伯特·彭斯而闻名的小镇，  
a town made famous by association with the national poet Robert Burns.  

248  
00:15:07,280 --> 00:15:11,680  
如今以另一种土产扬名。  
And famous today for another product from the Earth.  

249  
00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:13,320  
冰壶石。  
Curling stones.  

250  
00:15:14,560 --> 00:15:18,520  
苏格兰另一项国粹运动数百年来  
Scotland's other national game has been played on frozen lochs  

251  
00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:21,720  
在冰封湖泊与专用冰场开展。  
and specially-made ponds for centuries.  

252  
00:15:21,720 --> 00:15:25,600  
为探寻冰壶石制作的高贵传统，  
To discover more about the noble tradition of making curling stones,  

253  
00:15:25,600 --> 00:15:29,720  
我拜访了凯斯冰壶公司的马克·卡伦。  
I've come to meet with Mark Callan from Kays curling company.  

254  
00:15:29,720 --> 00:15:31,680  
马克，这些石材来自何处？  
Mark, where did all these stones come from?  

255  
00:15:31,680 --> 00:15:33,680  
来自艾尔莎岩岛，  
They come from a small island called Ailsa Craig,  

256  
00:15:33,680 --> 00:15:36,000  
这座小岛位于苏格兰西海岸十英里外，  
which is ten miles off the west coast of Scotland,  

257  
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,440  
克莱德湾中。  
in the Forth of Clyde.  

258  
00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:41,280  
现代冰壶石混合了两种花岗岩。  
Modern curling stones are a hybrid of two granites.  

259  
00:15:41,280 --> 00:15:43,440  
想象这座岛的样貌，  
If you imagine the island and look at it,  

260  
00:15:43,440 --> 00:15:45,200  
中央有座灯塔。  
there's a lighthouse in the middle.  

261  
00:15:45,200 --> 00:15:46,720  
灯塔左侧区域出产的  
Then anything to the left of the lighthouse  

262  
00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:49,720  
普通绿色花岗岩构成冰壶石主体。  
is the common green granite, which makes up the body of the stone.  

263  
00:15:49,720 --> 00:15:51,680  
灯塔右侧则产出  
And anything to the right of the lighthouse  

264  
00:15:51,680 --> 00:15:53,440  
蓝晶花岗岩，  
is the blue hone granite,  

265  
00:15:53,440 --> 00:15:55,240  
用于制作冰壶的滑行底面，  
which makes up the running surface of the stone,  

266  
00:15:55,240 --> 00:15:57,960  
即接触冰面的唯一部分。  
or the only bit of the stone that actually touches the ice.  

267  
00:15:57,960 --> 00:16:00,720  
艾尔莎岩岛同时产出这两种花岗岩？  
And you get both types of granite on Ailsa Craig?  

268  
00:16:00,720 --> 00:16:02,760  
确实如此。很方便不是吗？  
You do, indeed. Yes. That's handy, isn't it?  

269  
00:16:02,760 --> 00:16:05,160  
对我们来说可太方便了！  
Well, it is for us! It's very handy.  

270  
00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:08,240  
如何将花岗岩运送上岸？  
How do you physically bring the granite ashore?  

271  
00:16:08,240 --> 00:16:10,480  
说实话这可是项大工程。  
Well, it's quite an operation, to be honest.  

272  
00:16:10,480 --> 00:16:14,080  
通常每十年开采一次，  
We normally go once every ten years because there's a fair  

273  
00:16:14,080 --> 00:16:15,240  
成本相当高昂。  
amount of expense.  

274  
00:16:15,240 --> 00:16:18,240  
上次开采是2013年，  
But the last time we went was 2013.  

275  
00:16:18,240 --> 00:16:21,760  
最近一次是2020年11月。  
Until recently, we went in November 2020.  

276  
00:16:23,960 --> 00:16:26,560  
提前开采主要是因为  
And really, the reason for going a little bit earlier  

277  
00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:28,360  
这项运动蓬勃发展  
was because the game is growing so much  

278  
00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:30,000  
原料供不应求...  
that we needed more granite, so we had to...  

279  
00:16:30,000 --> 00:16:32,480  
石料快用完了？必须补充库存。  
You're running out of granite? We had to go and get some more.  

280  
00:16:32,480 --> 00:16:33,840  
于是我们去了。  
So we did.  

281  
00:16:37,360 --> 00:16:39,280  
开采过程很艰难吧？  
It must be quite difficult operation, is it not?  

282  
00:16:39,280 --> 00:16:42,160  
确实需要大量机械设备  
It is. It's quite a lot of, erm, a lot of machinery  

283  
00:16:42,160 --> 00:16:43,400  
等等复杂工序。  
and what have you, involved.  

284  
00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:46,000  
运输船需承载巨大重量——  
We need a boat that's capable of being able to take the weight  

285  
00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:48,880  
上次我们运回了600吨石料，  
of the granite, which is not inconsequential because we brought  

286  
00:16:48,880 --> 00:16:50,040  
绝非易事。  
600 tonnes off.  

287  
00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:54,160  
这项艰巨任务对拥有170年历史的  
A gruelling undertaking but something that Kays  

288  
00:16:54,160 --> 00:16:56,800  
凯斯公司来说早已驾轻就熟。  
is very familiar with, having been in the business  

289  
00:16:56,800 --> 00:16:58,760  
for 170 years.  

290  
00:16:58,760 --> 00:17:02,320  
作为全球仅有的两家、英国唯一  
They are just one of two companies in the world and the only one  

291  
00:17:02,320 --> 00:17:06,800  
获世界冰壶联合会认证的制造商，  
in the UK that makes stones approved by the World Curling Federation.  

292  
00:17:06,800 --> 00:17:09,800  
他们还获得重大认可：  
They've also been given a major endorsement.  

293  
00:17:09,800 --> 00:17:11,480  
自1998年至今，  
Since 1998 to the present day,  

294  
00:17:11,480 --> 00:17:13,840  
历届冬奥会比赛用石  
Kays has made the stones for every single  

295  
00:17:13,840 --> 00:17:15,640  
皆由凯斯制造。  
Olympic...Winter Olympic Games.  

296  
00:17:15,640 --> 00:17:17,600  
这对小企业而言... 太了不起了！  
So that is quite an endorsement... That's fantastic!  

297  
00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:19,760  
...是极高荣誉。 确实！  
..for a small company. I know!  

298  
00:17:21,440 --> 00:17:24,360  
为亲眼见证制作过程，  
Eager to see the creative process first-hand,  

299  
00:17:24,360 --> 00:17:27,440  
我随马克进入工厂。  
I follow Mark into the factory.  

300  
00:17:27,440 --> 00:17:31,240  
这台轰鸣的机器在做什么？  
It's a very noisy machine you've got running here. What's going on?  

301  
00:17:31,240 --> 00:17:33,520  
这是冰壶石制作的首道工序——  
Well, this is the first stage in the process of creating  

302  
00:17:33,520 --> 00:17:34,680  
核心钻孔。  
a curling stone.  

303  
00:17:34,680 --> 00:17:38,080  
钻管正在花岗岩板上切割出  
The core tube is actually cutting into the granite slab in order  

304  
00:17:38,080 --> 00:17:40,720  
"奶酪状"石坯，后续将加工成  
to create a cheese, which will then form the basis  

305  
00:17:40,720 --> 00:17:42,680  
冰壶石雏形。  
of our new curling stone.  

306  
00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:44,640  
每块石料都要经历钻孔。  
From there, each stone is cored.  

307  
00:17:46,440 --> 00:17:50,360  
随后经过粗磨精琢等多道工序，  
They then go through a variety of rough and fine shaping procedures  

308  
00:17:50,360 --> 00:17:53,480  
逐渐显现冰壶形态。  
where the stone finally starts to take shape.  

309  
00:17:53,480 --> 00:17:56,400  
这里每周产出32个冰壶石。  
They make 32 curling stones a week here.  

310  
00:17:56,400 --> 00:18:00,800  
严格遵循工艺标准的制作过程  
It's a slow and labour intensive process as each stone is made  

311  
00:18:00,800 --> 00:18:03,000  
缓慢而费时。  
to the strictest guidelines.  

312  
00:18:03,000 --> 00:18:07,040  
当磨砂垫与氧化锡为冰壶  
Things really begin to shine, quite literally, when abrasive pads  

313  
00:18:07,040 --> 00:18:11,840  
抛光的瞬间，光芒真正绽放。  
and tin oxide are used to give the curling stone its glossy sheen.  

314  
00:18:11,840 --> 00:18:15,600  
我要尝试打磨自己的冰壶石。  
And I'm going to have a go at buffing my own stone.  

315  
00:18:15,600 --> 00:18:17,560  
完美示范！  
Beautifully done!  

316  
00:18:17,560 --> 00:18:19,760  
我准备好了。  
OK, I'm ready.  

317  
00:18:19,760 --> 00:18:20,800  
开始吧。  
OK.  

318  
00:18:22,240 --> 00:18:25,480  
说实话有点紧张。  
Feeling quite nervous about this, to be honest.  

319  
00:18:25,480 --> 00:18:26,600  
可以启动了吗？  
Right, shall I go in?  

320  
00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:29,360  
（机器嗡鸣声）  
WHIRRING  

321  
00:18:29,360 --> 00:18:30,680  
好的。  
OK.  

322  
00:18:33,280 --> 00:18:34,800  
太漂亮了！  
Oh, you beauty!  

323  
00:18:36,040 --> 00:18:37,920  
这相当耗费体力。  
It's quite physical, this.  

324  
00:18:37,920 --> 00:18:39,480  
用尽全力。  
Hard as you can.  

325  
00:18:39,480 --> 00:18:40,760  
（保罗喘息声）  
PAUL GROANS  

326  
00:18:40,760 --> 00:18:43,280  
本以为像陶轮般轻松，  
I thought it was going to be more like a potter's wheel  

327  
00:18:43,280 --> 00:18:45,960  
实际非常吃力！  
but this is very brutal!  

328  
00:18:49,440 --> 00:18:51,480  
成品美极了不是吗？  
Now that looks beautiful, doesn't it?  

329  
00:18:51,480 --> 00:18:53,280  
现在物归原主。  
Well, I'll hand that back to you.  

330  
00:18:53,280 --> 00:18:55,920  
谢谢。我和您一样是认证老匠人了！  
Thank you. I'm a qualified old buffer like you!  

331  
00:18:55,920 --> 00:18:57,120  
（轻笑）  
HE CHUCKLES  

332  
00:18:57,120 --> 00:18:59,160  
说不定我参与打磨的  
And to think I could have had a hand  

333  
00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:02,480  
正是下届冬奥冠军冰壶呢。  
in making the next Olympic winning curling stone.  

334  
00:19:04,080 --> 00:19:07,880  
旅途继续，我思索着迄今遇到的  
As I continue on my journey, I reflect on the single mindedness  

335  
00:19:07,880 --> 00:19:12,600  
历史人物的专注与独立精神。  
and independence of the historical characters I've met so far.  

336  
00:19:12,600 --> 00:19:15,960  
传奇足球教练比尔·尚克利，  
Bill Shankly, the football manager extraordinaire.  

337  
00:19:15,960 --> 00:19:20,040  
煤气灯发明者默多克，筑路先驱麦克亚当。  
Murdoch, the gas lighting inventor and macadam of the roads.  

338  
00:19:20,040 --> 00:19:22,520  
他们何以成功？  
How did they succeed?  

339  
00:19:22,520 --> 00:19:25,840  
是严酷的自然环境磨砺了他们？  
Was it the harsh nature of the landscape that nurtured them?  

340  
00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:29,680  
抑或贫困所迫另谋出路？  
Were they perhaps forced by poverty to find a way out?  

341  
00:19:29,680 --> 00:19:34,040  
或许两者兼有，但我认为当地人的坚毅品格  
Well, I suppose both could be true, but I suspect that the determined  

342  
00:19:34,040 --> 00:19:38,800  
源于血腥宗教冲突的惨痛历史。  
character of the people hereabouts was moulded by a bitter history  

343  
00:19:38,800 --> 00:19:41,080  
of bloody religious conflict.  

344  
00:19:43,520 --> 00:19:48,360  
350年前，内战与宗派冲突  
350 years ago, civil war and sectarian conflict  

345  
00:19:48,360 --> 00:19:50,960  
震撼不列颠群岛诸王国。  
rocked the kingdoms of the British Isles.  

346  
00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:53,440  
苏格兰人民反抗  
In Scotland, people rejected  

347  
00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:57,240  
查理一世国王强制推行  
the attempt by King Charles I to force the church  

348  
00:19:57,240 --> 00:20:00,840  
英格兰国教体制的企图。  
to conform to English church governance.  

349  
00:20:00,840 --> 00:20:04,400  
众多新教徒以宗教名义抗命，  
Many Protestants defied the King on religious grounds  

350  
00:20:04,400 --> 00:20:07,720  
反对其自封教会元首。  
and opposed his claim to be head of the church.  

351  
00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:11,400  
这些虔诚信徒被称为盟约者，  
These God-fearing folk were known as the Covenanters  

352  
00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:16,880  
宣称凡人乃至君王都无权僭越——  
and claimed that no man and no king had that authority.  

353  
00:20:16,880 --> 00:20:18,600  
唯基督独尊。  
Only Christ.  

354  
00:20:20,160 --> 00:20:23,960  
一代人之后，盟约者仍在为信仰  
A generation later, the Covenanters were still fighting  

355  
00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:25,400  
而战。  
for their beliefs.  

356  
00:20:25,400 --> 00:20:27,560  
许多人以身殉道。  
Many would die for their faith.  

357  
00:20:27,560 --> 00:20:32,360  
这段历史被称为"杀戮时代"，  
This period of history is often referred to as, "the killing times",  

358  
00:20:32,360 --> 00:20:35,560  
艾尔河见证全程。  
and the River Ayr witnessed it all.  

359  
00:20:35,560 --> 00:20:39,320  
政府军纵马荒原，搜捕  
Government troops rode across the moors, hunting down suspected  

360  
00:20:39,320 --> 00:20:42,760  
盟约者就地处决。  
Covenanters and killing them on the spot.  

361  
00:20:42,760 --> 00:20:44,840  
这带乡间散布着  
In the countryside hereabouts  

362  
00:20:44,840 --> 00:20:48,400  
数十座信徒的坟墓与纪念碑，  
are dozens of graves and memorials to men and women of faith  

363  
00:20:48,400 --> 00:20:51,760  
他们常在亲人注视下被处决。  
who were executed, often in front of their own families.  

364  
00:20:51,760 --> 00:20:54,400  
眼前正是其中一座。  
And this is one of those graves.  

365  
00:20:56,800 --> 00:21:00,840  
这是宗教力量的深刻见证。  
It's a powerful reminder of the power of religion.  

366  
00:21:00,840 --> 00:21:03,360  
亚历山大·佩顿是苏格兰  
Alexander Peden was one of the leading figures  

367  
00:21:03,360 --> 00:21:05,800  
盟约者运动的领袖人物。  
in the Covenanter movement here in Scotland.  

368  
00:21:05,800 --> 00:21:08,600  
他被当局列为逃犯，  
He was declared a fugitive by the authorities  

369  
00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:11,920  
却借助艾尔河沿岸的谷仓洞穴  
but he managed to evade capture for almost 20 years  

370  
00:21:11,920 --> 00:21:14,800  
躲藏近二十年，  
by hiding in barns and caves along the River Ayr  

371  
00:21:14,800 --> 00:21:17,560  
直至1686年离世。  
until he died in 1686.  

372  
00:21:17,560 --> 00:21:21,000  
我随历史学家马克·贾丁追寻这位  
I join historian Mark Jardine to follow in this elusive  

373  
00:21:21,000 --> 00:21:24,680  
传奇人物的足迹，探访洞穴藏身处。  
character's footsteps from caves to coves.  

374  
00:21:24,680 --> 00:21:27,600  
佩顿死后声名鹊起。  
Peden became very popular after he was dead.  

375  
00:21:27,600 --> 00:21:32,120  
其生平与预言集在约三十年后出版。  
Erm, his life and prophecies were published about 30 years later.  

376  
00:21:32,120 --> 00:21:34,800  
他被视为先知吗？  
Was he sometimes considered to be a visionary?  

377  
00:21:34,800 --> 00:21:37,440  
生前人们认为他...  
During his lifetime, he sort of...  

378  
00:21:37,440 --> 00:21:40,680  
因其虔诚信仰  
Obviously, he was believed to have a certain form of piety  

379  
00:21:40,680 --> 00:21:43,320  
被视作能与上帝直接沟通。  
that gave him a sort of hotline to God.  

380  
00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:47,440  
亚历山大·佩顿是"杀戮时代"众多殉道者之一。  
Alexander Peden was one of the many martyrs of The Killing Times.  

381  
00:21:47,440 --> 00:21:50,520  
那是段残酷迫害时期，  
It was an intense period of persecution  

382  
00:21:50,520 --> 00:21:54,200  
上帝的信使沦为死神的使者。  
when the messengers of God became the messengers of death.  

383  
00:21:54,200 --> 00:21:55,920  
暴力不断升级——  
It is the spiral of violence.  

384  
00:21:55,920 --> 00:21:59,160  
他们最初只是举行  
It is the fact that, you know, they started out doing the free  

385  
00:21:59,160 --> 00:22:03,240  
被视为煽动性的福音布道会。  
preaching of the gospel, which were seditious meetings.  

386  
00:22:03,240 --> 00:22:05,720  
政府自然派军队  
The government obviously had to stamp on that  

387  
00:22:05,720 --> 00:22:07,960  
镇压。  
by sending in the army.  

388  
00:22:07,960 --> 00:22:09,000  
军队介入后，  
They send in the army.  

389  
00:22:09,000 --> 00:22:11,280  
抗议者斥其暴政，冲突愈演愈烈。  
They say they're a tyrant and it spirals up.  

390  
00:22:11,280 --> 00:22:12,720  
言论日趋激烈。  
The rhetoric gets more violent.  

391  
00:22:12,720 --> 00:22:15,840  
最终双方兵戎相见——  
And then, in the end, they take up arms against each other because,  

392  
00:22:15,840 --> 00:22:18,000  
毕竟政府不能容忍  
you know, the government cannot have people getting  

393  
00:22:18,000 --> 00:22:19,440  
民众如此失控。  
out of hand like this.  

394  
00:22:19,440 --> 00:22:22,400  
佩顿是主动卷入这场  
Did Peden come into this violence, this violent period  

395  
00:22:22,400 --> 00:22:24,720  
苏格兰历史上的暴力时期吗？  
of Scottish history knowingly?  

396  
00:22:24,720 --> 00:22:27,960  
是的。佩顿出现时，"杀戮时代"正值高峰。  
Yes. When Peden arrived, The Killing Times were at their height.  

397  
00:22:27,960 --> 00:22:31,400  
他最著名的事迹都集中在生命最后一年，  
He's most famous for the last year of his life, and that's nearly  

398  
00:22:31,400 --> 00:22:33,640  
几乎所有关于他的传说  
when all the stories of Peden appear.  

399  
00:22:33,640 --> 00:22:35,400  
都源自那个时期。  
They're nearly all about that.  

400  
00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:37,960  
为深入了解佩顿传奇，  
Eager to know more about the stories of Peden,  

401  
00:22:37,960 --> 00:22:41,560  
我随马克沿河前行，来到  
I follow Mark along the path beside the river, where it enters  

402  
00:22:41,560 --> 00:22:42,960  
艾尔峡谷——  
the Ayr Gorge -  

403  
00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:46,560  
这段河道风光旖旎如画。  
a beautiful and highly picturesque stretch of the river.  

404  
00:22:46,560 --> 00:22:49,680  
砂岩崖壁上凿有  
Cut into the sandstone is a flight of steps  

405  
00:22:49,680 --> 00:22:51,400  
"佩顿洞穴"石阶。  
called Peden's Cove.  

406  
00:22:51,400 --> 00:22:53,520  
它们通向崖顶森林。  
They lead to the woods above.  

407  
00:22:53,520 --> 00:22:58,440  
他在1685年末或1686年初的最后布道，  
The very last sermon he gave, either in late 1685 or early 1686,  

408  
00:22:58,440 --> 00:23:03,440  
就在我们正上方的山毛榉林中进行。  
was preaching column wood or coils of wound up above. Just above us.  

409  
00:23:03,440 --> 00:23:05,680  
这些石阶能通往那里？  
Yes. So these steps could actually lead up to that?  

410  
00:23:05,680 --> 00:23:09,080  
正是。佩顿可能借此  
They lead up there and it's possible that Peden used this  

411  
00:23:09,080 --> 00:23:12,640  
作为逃生路线或前往布道会的路径。  
as an escape route or as a way to the sermon or something like that.  

412  
00:23:12,640 --> 00:23:15,800  
他最后布道的内容是？  
And what was the nature of his final sermon?  

413  
00:23:15,800 --> 00:23:18,920  
充满了末日预言。  
It was quite an apocalyptic message he had.  

414  
00:23:18,920 --> 00:23:22,240  
作为临终遗言，他力求震撼人心——  
I mean, obviously it's his last sermon. He wanted to make an impact.  

415  
00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:25,720  
预言血刃将降临苏格兰，  
He promised a bloody sword would visit on Scotland.  

416  
00:23:25,720 --> 00:23:27,840  
刺穿万千人心。  
It would pierce many hearts.  

417  
00:23:27,840 --> 00:23:30,640  
他说人们将行走数英里  
He said that people would be able to walk many miles  

418  
00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:33,560  
唯见满目疮痍。  
and would only see ruin and desolation everywhere.  

419  
00:23:33,560 --> 00:23:34,880  
这预言倒很准确！  
Well, he got that right!  

420  
00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:37,000  
悲观论调贯穿始终。  
There's no end to this doom and gloom.  

421  
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:40,080  
这正是佩顿的布道风格。  
This is how Peden preached. He preached, he was very kind of vivid  

422  
00:23:40,080 --> 00:23:43,840  
言辞犀利生动，听众反而深受吸引。  
in what he said and the audience, I think, really loved that. Uh-huh.  

423  
00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:47,760  
本意是要吓得他们魂飞魄散。嗯。  
Um, but this was supposed to scare the bejesus out of them. Mm-hmm.  

424  
00:23:47,760 --> 00:23:50,800  
佩顿的布道如同梦魇，  
Peden's preaching was the stuff of nightmares  

425  
00:23:50,800 --> 00:23:53,360  
但他不止于口头威慑。  
but he didn't stop at the spoken word.  

426  
00:23:53,360 --> 00:23:57,880  
他以多种伪装闻名，包括佩戴面具。  
He was known to adopt various disguises, including a mask.  

427  
00:23:57,880 --> 00:24:00,160  
这面具实在诡异，  
This is.. it's a really bizarre object.  

428  
00:24:00,160 --> 00:24:01,800  
令人费解。  
I don't really understand it.  

429  
00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:03,840  
没人敢靠近戴这面具的人。  
You wouldn't want to go near somebody wearing that.  

430  
00:24:03,840 --> 00:24:06,520  
看起来诡异逼真。什么材质的？  
It looks kind of weirdly lifelike. What's it made of?  

431  
00:24:06,520 --> 00:24:08,720  
真人头发、  
Yeah, it is. It's got, sort of, human hair  

432  
00:24:08,720 --> 00:24:12,240  
皮革脸皮，还有浓密胡须。  
and a sort of leathery face and, you know, a beard. Massive beard!  

433  
00:24:12,240 --> 00:24:15,480  
甚至还有牙齿。牙齿造型非常夸张。  
It's even got teeth. Yeah, it's got extraordinary teeth.  

434  
00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:18,400  
佩顿没有画像传世，除了这面具。  
We have no image of Peden whatsoever. Apart from this.  

435  
00:24:18,400 --> 00:24:20,760  
这或许就是他的样貌。  
Apart from this mask. This COULD look like him.  

436  
00:24:20,760 --> 00:24:23,400  
很难相信有人会佩戴  
I find it hard to believe that you'd actually want a mask  

437  
00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:26,000  
与自己相貌相同的面具，  
that looks like you did, because the whole point is to try  

438  
00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:27,560  
伪装本应改头换面。  
and disguise yourself.  

439  
00:24:27,560 --> 00:24:29,440  
所以他真容并非如此？  
So he wouldn't have looked like that, would he?  

440  
00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:32,800  
面具可能是供他人佩戴——  
Well, the purpose of the mask could have been for somebody else  

441  
00:24:32,800 --> 00:24:34,240  
来当替身。  
to wear it.  

442  
00:24:34,240 --> 00:24:36,680  
原来如此！诱饵？远处看来  
Oh, I see. It's a decoy? So at a distance,  

443  
00:24:36,680 --> 00:24:39,280  
追兵会锁定错误目标...  
they might...they would go for the person. But it's not.  

444  
00:24:39,280 --> 00:24:41,760  
找个年轻力壮的替身跑得更快。妙计！  
Yeah, somebody younger who could run faster. Right.  

445  
00:24:41,760 --> 00:24:43,160  
No, that is cunning!  

446  
00:24:44,240 --> 00:24:47,840  
告别佩顿的恐怖传说与诡异面具...  
Leaving the ominous tales of Peden and his mask behind...  

447  
00:24:47,840 --> 00:24:51,120  
二、三、四、五、六、七，哎呀！  
Two, three, four, five, six, seven, oopsie!  

448  
00:24:51,120 --> 00:24:54,960  
...我踏着壮观的河心石  
..I cross the river by means of some impressive stepping stones  

449  
00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:58,480  
跨越河流，临近终点站艾尔镇。  
as I near the river end and the town of Ayr.  

450  
00:24:58,480 --> 00:25:02,760  
该镇旧称"因弗艾尔"，意为"艾尔河口"，  
Formerly known as Inverayr, meaning "mouth of the River Ayr",  

451  
00:25:02,760 --> 00:25:06,000  
围绕苏格兰国王威廉一世所建  
the town grew up around a long-vanished castle  

452  
00:25:06,000 --> 00:25:08,840  
现已消失的城堡发展而来。  
built by Scots king, William I.  

453  
00:25:08,840 --> 00:25:10,800  
19世纪之前，  
Until the 19th century,  

454  
00:25:10,800 --> 00:25:14,320  
这里曾是苏格兰最重要的港口之一，  
Ayr was one of the most important ports in the whole of Scotland,  

455  
00:25:14,320 --> 00:25:18,560  
与爱尔兰、美洲和地中海贸易往来频繁。  
with trading links to Ireland, America and the Mediterranean.  

456  
00:25:20,760 --> 00:25:24,960  
旧港最大宗的出口商品是食盐——  
One of the biggest exports from the Old Harbour was salt,  

457  
00:25:24,960 --> 00:25:29,320  
这项利润丰厚的产业如今已被遗忘。  
a lucrative industry which is now almost forgotten.  

458  
00:25:29,320 --> 00:25:32,320  
试图重振制盐业的  
Trying to revive the production of salt  

459  
00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:35,760  
是一栋我环游生涯中  
are the owners of one of the most extraordinary structures  

460  
00:25:35,760 --> 00:25:38,400  
见过最奇特的建筑的主人。  
I've ever come across on a Grand Tour.  

461  
00:25:39,920 --> 00:25:41,800  
黑刺李盐塔。  
Blackthorn Tower.  

462  
00:25:47,080 --> 00:25:50,880  
为探究竟，我入内拜访五代制盐世家传人  
To find out more, I'm stepping inside to meet Gregory Marshall,  

463  
00:25:50,880 --> 00:25:54,960  
格雷戈里·马歇尔。  
who comes from five generations' worth of salt producers.  

464  
00:25:54,960 --> 00:25:58,160  
必须说这里的环境非凡壮丽  
I have to say this is an absolutely extraordinary, magnificent  

465  
00:25:58,160 --> 00:26:01,120  
又超现实。  
and surreal environment that you've created here.  

466  
00:26:01,120 --> 00:26:04,400  
建造这种结构的灵感来自何处？  
Where did you get the idea to build such a structure?  

467  
00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:05,640  
是这样——  
Yes.  

468  
00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:09,760  
波兰和德国曾有类似建筑，  
They used to do something similar to this in Poland and Germany,  

469  
00:26:09,760 --> 00:26:12,760  
可惜现已停产。  
but sadly, they don't produce salt anymore.  

470  
00:26:12,760 --> 00:26:16,280  
英国从未有过此类建筑，  
There's never been one like this built in Britain at all,  

471  
00:26:16,280 --> 00:26:19,280  
这是全球唯一仍在运作的盐塔。  
and this is the only working tower in the world.  

472  
00:26:19,280 --> 00:26:21,680  
塔内装满黑刺李枝条。  
It's full of blackthorn.  

473  
00:26:21,680 --> 00:26:24,040  
采自树篱灌木。  
Find it in hedgerows.  

474  
00:26:24,040 --> 00:26:25,240  
我们将塔体塞满枝条，  
We'd stack it full.  

475  
00:26:25,240 --> 00:26:28,160  
从底到顶不留空隙。  
Absolutely rammed it full, all the way up to the top.  

476  
00:26:28,160 --> 00:26:30,920  
然后让海水缓缓渗下。  
And then we start to trickle the seawater down.  

477  
00:26:30,920 --> 00:26:34,480  
所用海水...来自近海。  
The water that you're using here today... Comes just off the coast.  

478  
00:26:34,480 --> 00:26:37,520  
枝条如同巨型晾衣绳，  
The branches acts like a huge washing line,  

479  
00:26:37,520 --> 00:26:39,320  
延展水体表面积。  
stretching out the water.  

480  
00:26:39,320 --> 00:26:42,520  
阳光与风带走水分，  
Wind and heat from the Sun carry away moisture,  

481  
00:26:42,520 --> 00:26:44,840  
留下浓缩盐水，  
leaving a salty brine behind  

482  
00:26:44,840 --> 00:26:47,320  
进而结晶成盐。  
from which crystals can form.  

483  
00:26:47,320 --> 00:26:49,960  
跟随盐水的足迹，  
Following the journey of the saltwater brine,  

484  
00:26:49,960 --> 00:26:51,760  
我们来到煎盐房——  
we head into the Pan House -  

485  
00:26:51,760 --> 00:26:54,760  
制盐的最后阶段。  
the final stage in the salt making process.  

486  
00:26:54,760 --> 00:26:57,920  
这是流入的盐水，褐色来自  
This is the brine, yeah, that comes in. The brown is the tannins  

487  
00:26:57,920 --> 00:26:59,480  
黑刺李的单宁酸。嗯。  
from the blackthorn. Uh-huh.  

488  
00:26:59,480 --> 00:27:02,520  
加热后逐步降温，  
And then we heated it up and we're gradually reducing the heat  

489  
00:27:02,520 --> 00:27:06,120  
不同温度下晶体开始形成。  
and at different temperatures, the crystals start to form.  

490  
00:27:06,120 --> 00:27:07,920  
就是我现在看到的？  
So is that what I can see?  

491  
00:27:07,920 --> 00:27:10,240  
那些微小颗粒是晶核，  
Yeah. So the tiny, tiny little dots  

492  
00:27:10,240 --> 00:27:13,000  
晶体生长需要起始点。  
is where they start, so they need to start somewhere.  

493  
00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:16,960  
如同自我播种，逐渐  
So it's kind of like they self seed themselves, so they just gradually  

494  
00:27:16,960 --> 00:27:18,760  
生长壮大。  
get bigger and bigger and bigger.  

495  
00:27:18,760 --> 00:27:23,120  
最终形成倒金字塔结构。  
And that's when you end up with those upside down pyramids.  

496  
00:27:23,120 --> 00:27:25,120  
随着体积增大，  
And as they get bigger,  

497  
00:27:25,120 --> 00:27:28,560  
会沉至底部。  
then they start to sink down to the bottom.  

498  
00:27:28,560 --> 00:27:31,920  
我持铲探寻盐水底部  
Using a shovel, I go in search of these crystals  

499  
00:27:31,920 --> 00:27:34,760  
的晶体。  
at the bottom of the brine.  

500  
00:27:34,760 --> 00:27:36,640  
开始挖掘。  
I shall dredge away.  

501  
00:27:36,640 --> 00:27:40,200  
看，好多盐晶！  
Yeah, there they go. Oh, a massive amount there. Look at that.  

502  
00:27:40,200 --> 00:27:42,800  
底部这些  
There we are. I can see it on the bottom  

503  
00:27:42,800 --> 00:27:45,880  
纯净的白色盐晶体。  
and that's it. Look at all those crystals,  

504  
00:27:45,880 --> 00:27:48,640  
those pure, white, salt crystals.  

505  
00:27:48,640 --> 00:27:50,920  
晶体品质上乘。  
Some good crystals in there.  

506  
00:27:50,920 --> 00:27:52,760  
就像雪花一样！  
Just like a snowflake!  

507  
00:27:54,360 --> 00:27:56,400  
就是味道更咸苦些！  
But slightly more bitter!  

508  
00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:05,000  
口袋装着海盐样本，我离开刺棘之塔  
With a sample of sea salt in my pocket, I leave the Tower of Thorns  

509  
00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:07,440  
前往海滩。  
and head to the beach.  

510  
00:28:07,440 --> 00:28:11,800  
尝过盐的咸涩后，我需要调剂。  
After all that salt, I'm looking for an antidote.  

511  
00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:13,280  
坐在沙滩上，  
Sitting on the beach  

512  
00:28:13,280 --> 00:28:16,280  
眺望壮丽的克莱德湾，  
with views of the magnificent Firth of Clyde  

513  
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:20,880  
一边享用冰淇淋，一边回味  
is an ideal place to enjoy an ice cream and for me to reflect  

514  
00:28:20,880 --> 00:28:25,720  
从源头到入海口的艾尔河之旅。  
on my journey down the River Ayr from source to shining sea.