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安格斯峡谷上方的山脉是一条河流的发源地
The mountains above the Angus Glens are the birthplace of a river

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它向东流淌 穿越高地边界断层
that flows east, crossing the Highland Boundary Fault

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流经富饶农田后注入北海
and rich farmland to reach the North Sea.

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这条河发源于海拔约750米处
The river starts about 750 metres above sea level,

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位于凯恩戈姆山脉南部高原
high on the plateau of the southern Cairngorms.

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我身后的这片水域是埃斯克湖
And that body of water behind me is Loch Esk,

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由此流出的便是南埃斯克河的源头
and the river that flows from it is the infant South Esk,

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我将一路追随它直到入海口
and I'm going to follow it all the way to the sea.

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苏格兰的河流塑造了这个国家
Scotland's rivers have shaped the nation, and are among

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是最珍贵的自然瑰宝
the country's greatest treasures.

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自远古时代起
Since the earliest times,

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河流就是天然的高速通道
rivers have been used as natural highways.

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最早的城镇都依河而建
Along their banks the first towns and cities were built.

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作为自然资源
And as a natural resource,

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河流为我们提供了丰富的食物与动力
rivers have provided us with an abundance of food and power.

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在本系列中
In this series,

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我将拜访沿岸生活的各色人物
I'll meet a cast of characters who live along the banks

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在穿越苏格兰的壮游途中
of our great waterways, and uncover intriguing tales

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发掘水道承载的历史传奇
from the past as I travel across Scotland

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探寻这些
on a grand tour

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生命之源的原始风貌
to explore the original waters of life.

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本期节目中
In this programme,

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我将从山脉走向海洋
I'm travelling from the mountains to the sea,

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从闪耀的斯凯利斯岩到斯库迪角
from the Glittering Skellies to Scurdie Ness.

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我的壮游始于格兰扁山脉高处
My grand tour begins high in the Grampian Mountains,

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沿着南埃斯克河前行
following the River South Esk.

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路线进入克洛瓦峡谷
The route enters Glen Clova,

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避开布里金的瘟疫区 最终陷在蒙特罗斯的泥滩中
avoids the plague at Brechin, and gets stuck in the mud at Montrose.

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终点站是斯库迪角
Journey's end is at Scurdie Ness.

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这是个极其重要又充满魔力的地方
Now, this is a very important and almost magical place,

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河流自此发源 从湖泊奔涌而下
because it's here that the river begins as it flows from the loch

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形成南埃斯克河
down hill and becomes the River South Esk.

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此刻它虽细小 但将不断壮大
It's very small at the moment, but it's going to get bigger

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见证河流与旅程的初始时刻
and bigger, and it's so exciting to be at the beginning of something

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令人无比振奋
new, like a river and a journey.

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南埃斯克河从这片被称为"芒斯"的高地
The River South Esk flows from the high ground here,

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奔流而出
known as the Mounth,

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绵延79公里后注入北海
for 79km before reaching the North Sea.

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如你所料 这是个人迹罕至的偏远地区
As you might expect, this is a remote and seldom-visited area,

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但地图却显示另有玄机
but my map suggests otherwise.

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先民们曾为这里的自然地标命名
In the past, people knew the landmarks well enough to name them.

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地图上标注着那边的乌鸦岩
Marked on my map we've got the Crow Craigies over there.

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右侧则是
And then just to the right,

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高沃尔巨岩的浑圆山体
the great rounded lump of the Craig of Gowal.

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两者之间是法弗尼牧场的遗迹
And between them is the ruin of the Fafernie Shiel.

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那是夏季牧场 牧民们曾在此
Now, that was a summer shieling used by folk who brought their cattle

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放牧牛群
up here in the summertime.

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而我身后是拥有绝妙名字的闪耀斯凯利斯岩
But just behind me is the fabulously named Glittering Skellies -

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意为闪亮之岩
the Shining Rocks.

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离开斯凯利斯岩 我沿石南丛中的小径前行
Leaving the Skellies, I follow a narrow path through the heather,

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脚下踏着远古旅人穿越芒斯高地时
my feet treading in the footsteps of much earlier travellers

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留下的足迹
across the Mounth.

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整个芒斯高地上
All across the high Mounth,

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遍布着纵横交错的小径
there are paths and rights of way

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连接峡谷与荒野
threading through the glens and over the moors.

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这些捷径维系着群落往来
But these were short cuts connecting communities,

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省去了绕山而行的漫长跋涉
and saved a lot of legwork going around the mountains.

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我沿着陡峭小路下至克洛瓦峡谷 南埃斯克河
My path makes a steep descent into Glen Clova, where the South Esk

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在此已形成可观的水流
is becoming a substantial stream.

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令人困惑的是"埃斯克"是多个河流共用的名字
Rather confusingly, the Esk is just one of several rivers

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which share the same name.

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有北埃斯克河 南埃斯克河
There's the North Esk, the South Esk,

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洛锡安地区有一条 邓弗里斯-加洛韦还有一条
an esk in the Lothians, another one in Dumfries and Galloway,

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英格兰北部也有 继续向南
there are esks in northern England, and as you move further south,

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"埃斯克"演变为"阿克塞" 如阿克明斯特 再变为"埃克塞"
the word esk becomes ax, as in Axminster, and then ex,

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如埃克塞特
as in Exeter.

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这些名称的共同点是都源自
Now, the one thing that these words have in common is that they derive

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凯尔特古语中的"水"
from an ancient Celtic word meaning water.

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沿克洛瓦峡谷下行数公里
A few kilometres further down Glen Clova,

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南埃斯克河与一条支流交汇
the South Esk is joined by a tributary that flows

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这条支流发源于秀美的多尔峡谷上游
from the upper reaches of pretty Glen Doll.

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河流发源的这片高地是珍稀高山植物的
Up here, where the rivers drain, is a haven for some rare and iconic

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alpine plants.

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在冰斗区
In the corrie

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我遇见植物学家艾琳·芬格和玛蒂娜·博格
I meet botanists Aline Finger and Martine Borge,

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她们将带我探访苏格兰最珍稀的植物之一
who are going to take me to see one of the rarest plants in Scotland.

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我们要去哪里？
So where are we going?

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我们要爬上那边的一条沟壑
We are going up into one of those gullies up there.

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很快我发现这绝非花园漫步
I soon discover that this trip is no stroll in the garden.

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这是极限植物考察
It's extreme botany.

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离开小径后
Leaving the path,

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我们沿陡峭的草坡攀登 穿行于悬崖与岩壁之间
we climb steeply up a grassy gully, between cliffs and rocky outcrops.

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我们正在进入山脉腹地 没错
So we're going into the heart of the mountain here. We are.

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这里像失落的世界 确实
It's like the lost world up here. I know.

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又看见河流了 看那边！
And we see the river again. Look at that!

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抵达高原后 又沿着陡坡下行
Once on the summit plateau, it's downhill again

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来到玛蒂娜和艾琳打造的
very steeply, to reach a precarious rock garden

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悬崖植物园
created by Martine and Aline.

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玛蒂娜 到达这里可真不容易 确实
Martine, it's been a bit of a struggle to get here, to say the least. It has.

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我们来看什么植物？
But what have we come to see?

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这株莴苣状的植物其实是
So this is, this lettucey-looking plant is actually

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高山蓝蓟
the alpine blue-sow thistle.

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这是苏格兰最珍稀的植物之一
So this is one of Scotland's very rarest plants, only found

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仅存于四个小型群落
in four small populations.

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为何如此稀有？
So how come it's so rare?

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其实它与莴苣是近亲
So, actually, it's related to lettuce,

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而且非常适口
and it's very palatable

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尤其容易遭受鹿群啃食
to anything that wants to eat it, especially grazing by deer.

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所以只能在这些小岩架上存活
So it can only survive on these tiny little ledges,

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躲避鹿群的啃食
where it's out of the way of the grazing deer.

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导致种群变得极度孤立
So the populations have become really isolated now.

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说实话看起来平平无奇
I have to say, it doesn't look much.

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还没到最佳状态吗？
Has it not realised its full potential yet?

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它还有很大的成长空间
It has a lot of potential that it's yet to realise.

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对这个植物来说现在季节尚早
It's quite early in the year for this plant, and quite soon

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很快会长出修长的花茎
it will start putting up a lovely, long flowering spike,

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顶端绽放星形的天蓝色花朵
which has gorgeous, star-shaped sky blue flowers on the end.

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苏格兰野生高山蓟的极小种群
The survival of Scotland's tiny wild population of

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能否延续
alpine sow thistle

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全赖艾琳和玛蒂娜这样的植物学家
now depends on the help of botanists like Aline and Martine.

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种子在温室发芽培育
Seeds are germinated and brought on in a greenhouse,

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再移植到野外
before being planted out in the wild.

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我们从原生种群采集根茎材料
We collected some root material from the native populations,

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将不同种群进行杂交
and then we actually crossbred those different populations

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培育出基因更具多样性
in the nursery and created new plants, which are a bit

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的新植株
more genetically diverse, we hope.

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为何基因多样性如此重要？
So why is genetic diversity such an important issue?

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基因多样性是物种适应新环境
Genetic diversity is the basis for a species to being able to adapt

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和环境变化的基础
to new environments and to environmental change,

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比如当前面临的气候变化
such as what we're experiencing at the moment, climate change,

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或新病虫害爆发等情况
or in case there's an outbreak of new pests and diseases.

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多样性低的植物
So plants that have a very low diversity

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更难应对这些变化
are less likely to be able to cope with all these changes.

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蓟的生长状况如何？
And how is the sow thistle doing?

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目前长势良好
So it's actually doing really well.

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现在看起来很健康
It's lovely to see now.

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关键是尚未被啃食
So the main thing is that it's not been grazed yet,

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这让人松了口气
which is just a real relief,

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植株很健康
and it's a healthy plant.

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目前约30厘米高
It's about...about 30 centimetres,

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正是六月应有的生长状态
which is just what we want to see now in June, so...

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凝聚了多少心血才培育成功
And so much effort has gone into raising it.

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是的 耗费了巨大心血
Yes, enormous amount of effort.

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看到它能顽强存活 真是珍贵无比
So it's great to see it's clinging on. It's very precious.

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确实弥足珍贵 非常珍贵
Very precious indeed. Very precious, yep.

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健康的野花种群看似微不足道
A healthy wild flower population might seem a small thing,

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却意味着整个峡谷生态系统的健康
but it means a healthy environment for the whole glen

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以及穿流其间的河流
and the river that flows through it.

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回到克洛瓦峡谷 我沿东南向公路
Back in Glen Clova, I pick up the course of the river again

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重新寻获河流踪迹
as I follow the road southeast.

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这里的社区看似与世隔绝
The communities here may seem remote and cut off,

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但峡谷居民始终与远方
but the people of the glen have always kept in touch

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保持着联系
with faraway places.

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1940年代 当地有位女性在维系人际联系的同时
Back in the 1940s, a local woman who helped people stay in touch

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还革新了职场女性着装规范
also revolutionised female fashion in the workplace.

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她叫琼·卡梅隆 是峡谷里的邮递员
Her name was Jean Cameron, and she was the postie in the glen.

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二战期间
During the Second World War,

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邮政系统吸纳了大量女性员工
women swelled the ranks of the Post Office.

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在选择制服时
When it came to choosing their uniform,

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琼·卡梅隆清楚知道自己需要什么
Jean Cameron knew exactly what she wanted -

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一条结实的马裤
a sturdy pair of breeks.

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她每天骑行15英里
She cycled 15 miles a day,

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跨沟渠越溪流 横渡南埃斯克河
jumping dykes and crossing the River South Esk.

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她认为裙装完全不适合这项工作
Skirts, she argued, were quite unsuitable for the job.

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琼成功说服上司允许女性穿着长裤
Jean successfully persuaded her bosses to let women wear trousers,

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这种裤子后来被命名为"卡梅隆裤"以致敬她
which were called Camerons, in her honour.

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琼对这条道路定然了如指掌
Jean would have known this road well.

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此处南埃斯克河蜿蜒流过田野草甸
Here the River South Esk meanders slowly through fields and meadows,

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沿途汇入的众多溪流
its waters augmented by many burns and streams

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使水量不断增大
that join its onward course.

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00:08:57,280 --> 00:08:59,280
其中罗塔尔溪
One of them, the Rottal Burn,

162
00:08:59,280 --> 00:09:03,560
近年经历了焕发生机的改造
has had a life-enhancing face-lift in recent years.

163
00:09:03,560 --> 00:09:05,880
为说明我的意思
Now, to demonstrate what I mean,

164
00:09:05,880 --> 00:09:07,520
请看这张地图
take a look at this map.

165
00:09:07,520 --> 00:09:11,000
图上显示我身后的罗塔尔溪
It shows the Rottal Burn, which flows behind me,

166
00:09:11,000 --> 00:09:14,000
在汇入南埃斯克河前
filling a straight and deep drainage canal

167
00:09:14,000 --> 00:09:16,680
流经笔直的深排水渠
just before it meets the River South Esk.

168
00:09:16,680 --> 00:09:19,720
如今这里已彻底改变
Now today, things have completely changed.

169
00:09:19,720 --> 00:09:23,880
水渠干涸 溪流以优美蜿蜒的
The canal is dry, and the burn follows a wonderfully meandering

170
00:09:23,880 --> 00:09:26,440
姿态向南流去
route as it heads further south.

171
00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:29,240
变化确实翻天覆地
Now, things really have changed.

172
00:09:29,240 --> 00:09:31,760
为探究其中缘由
To find out what's been going on here,

173
00:09:31,760 --> 00:09:34,720
我加入水中作业的克雷格和史蒂夫
I join two men in the water - Craig and Steve -

174
00:09:34,720 --> 00:09:38,040
他们正摆弄着奇特装置
who are busy with an odd-looking contraption.

175
00:09:38,040 --> 00:09:39,360
早上好 先生们
Morning, gents.

176
00:09:39,360 --> 00:09:41,000
你们在做什么？
What are you actually doing?

177
00:09:41,000 --> 00:09:45,720
我们在用电捕法采集幼鲑和鳟鱼
We're electrofishing for juvenile salmon and trout.

178
00:09:45,720 --> 00:09:49,640
向水中通入微弱电流
What we do is we run a very mild electric current through the water,

179
00:09:49,640 --> 00:09:53,280
暂时击晕鱼群便于网捕
and it stuns the fish temporarily and it enables us to net them up

180
00:09:53,280 --> 00:09:56,080
放入水桶 这样做的目的是？
and put them into a bucket. Right, so what's the purpose of that?

181
00:09:56,080 --> 00:09:58,600
监测河流中幼鱼种群数量
It allows us to monitor the juvenile fish populations

182
00:09:58,600 --> 00:10:02,960
评估河道重塑项目的成效
in the river, to see how successful our re-meandering project was.

183
00:10:02,960 --> 00:10:04,920
听起来妙极了
Now, that sounds absolutely fascinating.

184
00:10:04,920 --> 00:10:07,160
重塑溪流具体要做什么？
What's involved in re-meandering a burn?

185
00:10:07,160 --> 00:10:08,560
19世纪时
Well, in the 19th century,

186
00:10:08,560 --> 00:10:11,880
为排水需求将溪流改直
the burn was straightened for drainage purposes,

187
00:10:11,880 --> 00:10:13,720
主要是服务农业
mainly for agriculture, we think.

188
00:10:13,720 --> 00:10:15,960
所以变成了排水沟？
So it became a drainage ditch, did it?

189
00:10:15,960 --> 00:10:17,600
对 基本就是排水沟
Yes, basically a drainage ditch.

190
00:10:17,600 --> 00:10:20,920
当时人们只重视溪流的排水功能
That was the value that was placed on the burn at the time.

191
00:10:20,920 --> 00:10:24,240
然而当鲑鱼秋季洄游产卵时
However, when the salmon came to spawn, to lay their eggs

192
00:10:24,240 --> 00:10:28,160
它们能成功产卵
in the autumn time, they would successfully lay their eggs,

193
00:10:28,160 --> 00:10:30,720
但冬季洪水来袭时 由于溪流
but then in the winter, floods would come, and because the burn

194
00:10:30,720 --> 00:10:33,880
被改直 所有鱼卵都会被冲走
was straightened, all the eggs would just get washed away. Right.

195
00:10:33,880 --> 00:10:36,440
就找不到我们现在采集的这些鱼了
And we wouldn't find any of the fish that we're doing just now.

196
00:10:36,440 --> 00:10:38,720
整个产卵季都会失败
So a whole season's spawning would be a failure.

197
00:10:38,720 --> 00:10:41,080
完全是白费功夫 没错
It would just be a complete waste of time. Yeah, exactly.

198
00:10:41,080 --> 00:10:42,840
你们如何修正这个问题？
So what did you do to correct that?

199
00:10:42,840 --> 00:10:45,120
九年前的2012年
Well, nine years ago, in 2012,

200
00:10:45,120 --> 00:10:47,920
我们为溪流重新设计了
the burn was given a new course again,

201
00:10:47,920 --> 00:10:50,200
接近原始形态的河道
closely aligned to how it was originally.

202
00:10:50,200 --> 00:10:52,040
是大型工程吗？
Was that a huge engineering project?

203
00:10:52,040 --> 00:10:54,000
是的 规模很大
It was. It was a big engineering project, yeah.

204
00:10:54,000 --> 00:10:56,160
聘请了各类顾问
We had all sorts of consultants involved,

205
00:10:56,160 --> 00:10:58,280
规划新河道走向
to tell us the new channel to follow.

206
00:10:58,280 --> 00:11:01,680
需要设计带有曲流的新河道？
So you had to draw a new channel with meanders, bends, in it?

207
00:11:01,680 --> 00:11:02,720
对 是的
Yes. Yeah.

208
00:11:02,720 --> 00:11:05,280
鱼类反应如何？现状怎样？
And how are the fish responding? How are they doing now?

209
00:11:05,280 --> 00:11:08,640
非常成功 自2013年起
It's been really successful. We've been doing these surveys

210
00:11:08,640 --> 00:11:12,760
我们持续监测 发现的幼鱼密度
since 2013, and the densities of juvenile fish that we're finding

211
00:11:12,760 --> 00:11:14,200
令人欣喜
now is absolutely fantastic.

212
00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:18,480
鱼卵冬季被冲走的情况不复存在
So we're not getting these winter wash-outs of the eggs any more.

213
00:11:18,480 --> 00:11:20,640
变化非常明显？ 非常显著
So it's very noticeable, the change? Oh, yes. Yeah.

214
00:11:20,640 --> 00:11:24,160
付出努力后看到成效一定很振奋
That must be fantastically encouraging, after all that effort.

215
00:11:24,160 --> 00:11:27,640
既鼓舞人心又充满成就感 激励我们继续
It's encouraging and rewarding and motivating to do more.

216
00:11:27,640 --> 00:11:28,680
嗯 是的
Uh-huh.  Yeah.

217
00:11:30,840 --> 00:11:34,560
这些幼鲑象征着河道重塑的成功
It's inspiring to think that these young salmon represent

218
00:11:34,560 --> 00:11:37,120
令人振奋
the success of the re-meandering scheme,

219
00:11:37,120 --> 00:11:40,360
也证明通过单一措施
and demonstrate how the health of the whole river system

220
00:11:40,360 --> 00:11:43,360
就能改善整个水系生态
can be improved by doing just one thing.

221
00:11:44,840 --> 00:11:49,000
沿南埃斯克河南行数英里
Overlooking the River South Esk, just a few miles further south,

222
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:52,680
图洛克山巍然矗立 因纪念
is Tulloch Hill - prominent because of the huge monument

223
00:11:52,680 --> 00:11:55,960
在南非布尔战争中阵亡的
built to the memory of the 11th Earl of Airlie,

224
00:11:55,960 --> 00:11:59,640
第十一代艾尔利伯爵的巨碑而闻名
who was killed during the Boer War in South Africa.

225
00:11:59,640 --> 00:12:03,560
另一座不起眼的纪念碑
Much less conspicuous is another memorial, where views

226
00:12:03,560 --> 00:12:07,720
承载着对安格斯起伏大地的眷恋
across the rolling lands of Angus were admired and loved by the men

227
00:12:07,720 --> 00:12:10,400
the monument is dedicated to.

228
00:12:10,400 --> 00:12:13,200
这块30吨重的巨型花岗岩
This massive 30-tonne block of granite

229
00:12:13,200 --> 00:12:16,080
为纪念威尔逊博士与
was carved and dedicated to the memory

230
00:12:16,080 --> 00:12:20,480
罗伯特·福尔肯·斯科特船长而立
of Dr Edward Wilson and Captain Robert Falcon Scott.

231
00:12:20,480 --> 00:12:23,440
二人均在1912年
Now, both men died on the way back from an expedition

232
00:12:23,440 --> 00:12:25,320
南极探险返程途中遇难
to the South Pole in 1912.

233
00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:31,840
曾随斯科特参与前次南极探险的威尔逊
Wilson, who had accompanied Scott on a previous expedition

234
00:12:31,840 --> 00:12:35,880
被任命为新陆地号科考船的
to Antarctica, was asked by Scott to become the chief scientific

235
00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:39,200
首席科学官
officer on board the ship Terra Nova.

236
00:12:39,200 --> 00:12:41,760
斯科特曾到访威尔逊
Scott visited Wilson at a nearby cottage

237
00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:44,320
居住工作的乡间小屋
where he lived and worked here.

238
00:12:44,320 --> 00:12:47,600
他们在此筹划了那次终极远征
Here they planned the fateful expedition that would take them

239
00:12:47,600 --> 00:12:49,840
前往地球最南端
as far as it's possible to go,

240
00:12:49,840 --> 00:12:53,720
最终长眠冰原
all the way to the South Pole, and to a frozen death.

241
00:12:55,280 --> 00:12:57,000
威尔逊是虔诚信徒
Wilson was a man of faith,

242
00:12:57,000 --> 00:12:59,800
他对那片最终吞噬其生命的
and his feelings for the frozen continent

243
00:12:59,800 --> 00:13:04,400
冰封大陆的情感充满灵性
that would eventually take his life are touchingly spiritual.

244
00:13:04,400 --> 00:13:08,600
碑文摘录自他的日记
Now, up there is an extract from his diary, and it reads,

245
00:13:08,600 --> 00:13:11,480
"这些日子将永驻心间
"These days are with one for all time.

246
00:13:11,480 --> 00:13:15,680
"永志不忘 在世界任何角落
"They are never to be forgotten and they are to be found nowhere else

247
00:13:15,680 --> 00:13:18,120
"唯有两极才能得见
"in all the world but at the poles.

248
00:13:18,120 --> 00:13:21,760
"神赐的平安超越理解
"The peace of God, which passes all understanding,

249
00:13:21,760 --> 00:13:23,880
"在这些日子里统御此地"
"reigns here in these days."

250
00:13:26,240 --> 00:13:27,520
发人深省
A powerful thought.

251
00:13:31,920 --> 00:13:34,760
从斯科特-威尔逊纪念碑顺流而下
Downstream from the Scott Wilson Monument,

252
00:13:34,760 --> 00:13:38,080
河流蜿蜒穿过肥沃农田
the river winds through rich agricultural land,

253
00:13:38,080 --> 00:13:41,800
但既无步道 水位又太浅不宜行船
but there's no path, and it's really too shallow for a boat,

254
00:13:41,800 --> 00:13:45,400
是时候改变交通方式了
so it's time to rethink my mode of transport.

255
00:13:45,400 --> 00:13:47,960
或许该试试轰鸣的座驾
Something throaty, perhaps.

256
00:13:52,080 --> 00:13:55,040
戴上一顶夸张的大头盔
Donning a ludicrously large crash helmet,

257
00:13:55,040 --> 00:13:56,680
我与迈克·辛克莱
I join Mike Sinclair,

258
00:13:56,680 --> 00:14:00,920
骑着哈雷摩托穿越安格斯宁静乡间
as we ride Harley-Davidsons through the quiet Angus countryside

259
00:14:00,920 --> 00:14:04,680
前往机车爱好者与
to a place of pilgrimage for petrolheads and lovers

260
00:14:04,680 --> 00:14:07,120
美国传奇机车朝圣者的圣地
of these iconic American machines.

261
00:14:10,160 --> 00:14:15,040
出人意料的是 哈雷摩托的血统竟可追溯至
Unexpectedly, Harley-Davidson has a pedigree that leads all the way

262
00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:19,960
从美国回到苏格兰的这个角落
from the US of A back to this corner of Scotland.

263
00:14:19,960 --> 00:14:23,680
抵达阿伯莱姆诺村后 我们在一座朴素的石屋前停下
Reaching the village of Aberlemno, we stop at a modest but and ben,

264
00:14:23,680 --> 00:14:28,080
令人惊叹的是 这里曾是戴维森家族的故居
which, amazingly, was once the home of a family called Davidson.

265
00:14:28,080 --> 00:14:30,240
这是戴维森小屋
This is the Davidson Cottage.

266
00:14:30,240 --> 00:14:32,160
如今人们都这么称呼它
Well, that's what everyone calls it now -

267
00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:35,520
其实本名是下城小屋 但这里是苏格兰
it's actually Netherton Cottage - but it's the home of the Davidsons

268
00:14:35,520 --> 00:14:39,040
哈雷-戴维森创始人的祖宅
of Harley-Davidson in Scotland.

269
00:14:39,040 --> 00:14:40,600
170年前
170 years ago,

270
00:14:40,600 --> 00:14:44,040
桑迪与玛格丽特·戴维森夫妇
Sandy and Margaret Davidson lived in the cottage

271
00:14:44,040 --> 00:14:45,600
带着六个孩子居住于此
with their six children.

272
00:14:45,600 --> 00:14:49,360
桑迪是铁匠 但时局艰难
Sandy was a blacksmith, but times were hard.

273
00:14:49,360 --> 00:14:55,680
1857年 举家移民美国密尔沃基
Then, in 1857, the family emigrated to Milwaukee, USA.

274
00:14:55,680 --> 00:14:59,280
技艺精湛的戴维森家族很快在铁路行业
The skilled Davidsons soon found work on the railways,

275
00:14:59,280 --> 00:15:01,760
找到铸造机车零件的工作
making castings for locomotives.

276
00:15:01,760 --> 00:15:04,720
闲暇时他们常去钓鱼
In their spare time, they went fishing.

277
00:15:04,720 --> 00:15:06,280
一代人之后
A generation later,

278
00:15:06,280 --> 00:15:10,120
正是为了前往钓场 戴维森家的男孩们
getting to the fishing grounds was the reason the Davidson boys

279
00:15:10,120 --> 00:15:14,920
与好友比尔·哈雷制造了首辆摩托车
and their friend, Bill Harley, created their first motorcycle.

280
00:15:14,920 --> 00:15:19,960
他们目睹法国人默克尔在密尔沃基
They saw a French guy, Merkel, doing a demonstration in the middle

281
00:15:19,960 --> 00:15:23,040
展示机动自行车
of Milwaukee of a motorised bicycle,

282
00:15:23,040 --> 00:15:25,480
认为这将是前往
and they thought this would be the way

283
00:15:25,480 --> 00:15:27,440
钓场的理想交通工具
to go to the fishing grounds.

284
00:15:27,440 --> 00:15:30,400
我注意到许多同样富有进取心的人
It strikes me that lots of other people, equally enterprising,

285
00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:34,880
都有在自行车架上安装发动机
were having the same idea of putting a bicycle engine on a bicycle frame

286
00:15:34,880 --> 00:15:36,400
制造摩托车的想法
and creating a motorbike.

287
00:15:36,400 --> 00:15:38,760
法国人已经实现了... 确实如此
The Frenchman had already done it... Yeah, that's right.

288
00:15:38,760 --> 00:15:42,240
为何哈雷-戴维森能发展成为
..so how come Harley-Davidson became such a hugely

289
00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:45,120
极具活力的工程公司？
dynamic engineering company?

290
00:15:45,120 --> 00:15:48,280
主要归功于耐力赛
It was because of endurance racing, mainly.

291
00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:49,760
沃尔特·戴维森
Walter Davidson,

292
00:15:49,760 --> 00:15:53,440
通过参赛验证了机车的可靠性
he went out and proved the bike, proved that it was reliable.

293
00:15:53,440 --> 00:15:56,440
就能在店铺宣传
Then you could shout about it in your shop and say,

294
00:15:56,440 --> 00:15:59,920
"看 这辆车完成比赛全程无故障
"Look, this managed this race without breaking down,

295
00:15:59,920 --> 00:16:03,880
"还比所有对手提前一小时抵达终点"
"and it managed to finish an hour before everyone else and everything."

296
00:16:03,880 --> 00:16:05,720
这才是成功关键
And that's really what pushed it.

297
00:16:05,720 --> 00:16:07,480
机车耐力是核心竞争力
It was the endurance of the bikes.

298
00:16:07,480 --> 00:16:11,760
但想到这座小屋与传奇机车
But it is amazing to think that this wee cottage here is connected

299
00:16:11,760 --> 00:16:15,000
创造者们的人生
so intimately to the lives of the creators

300
00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:16,840
竟有如此渊源
of this legendary bike,

301
00:16:16,840 --> 00:16:19,320
实在妙不可言
this legendary motorbike. It's fantastic.

302
00:16:19,320 --> 00:16:20,800
确实如此
Yeah, it is, really,

303
00:16:20,800 --> 00:16:22,480
我们深感自豪
and we're really proud of that.

304
00:16:22,480 --> 00:16:26,200
尤其是苏格兰车手们
And all the guys, especially the Scottish guys,

305
00:16:26,200 --> 00:16:27,520
骑着哈雷来此时
that come on their Harleys,

306
00:16:27,520 --> 00:16:29,320
都为此地是
they're really proud of the fact that

307
00:16:29,320 --> 00:16:32,480
传奇起源处而骄傲
this is where it started, kind of thing. Yeah.

308
00:16:33,840 --> 00:16:36,840
依依不舍归还借来的哈雷
Reluctantly returning my borrowed Harley,

309
00:16:36,840 --> 00:16:41,520
我感慨戴维森家族从寒门到辉煌的历程
I reflect on how far the Davidsons travelled from their humble origins,

310
00:16:41,520 --> 00:16:44,240
继续东行前往布里金
as I make my way further east to Brechin,

311
00:16:44,240 --> 00:16:48,720
南埃斯克河流经苏格兰最小的城市
where the River South Esk flows through Scotland's smallest city.

312
00:16:49,880 --> 00:16:52,120
布里金的城市地位源于
Brechin's claim to city status

313
00:16:52,120 --> 00:16:56,480
其古老的大教堂 这片圣地
is its ancient cathedral, which occupies a site that's

314
00:16:56,480 --> 00:16:59,720
至少自五世纪起就享有盛誉
been sacred since at least the fifth century.

315
00:17:01,840 --> 00:17:05,600
教堂最古老的部分是这座
By far the oldest part of the cathedral is the extraordinary

316
00:17:05,600 --> 00:17:10,840
25米高的圆形塔楼 约有千年历史
25-metre round tower, which is about a thousand years old.

317
00:17:10,840 --> 00:17:15,200
既是钟楼 也作为防御工事
It was built as a bell tower and doubled as a defensive structure

318
00:17:15,200 --> 00:17:18,720
和危难时期的避难所
and place of refuge in times of trouble.

319
00:17:18,720 --> 00:17:21,680
圆塔或许能抵御人类攻击
The round tower may have deterred human attack,

320
00:17:21,680 --> 00:17:25,600
但对瘟疫却毫无招架之力
but against the plague it offered no defence at all.

321
00:17:25,600 --> 00:17:27,200
15世纪时
In the 1400s,

322
00:17:27,200 --> 00:17:30,160
黑死病肆虐该城
the Black Death ravaged the city.

323
00:17:30,160 --> 00:17:32,200
18世纪时
And again in the 1700s,

324
00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:37,320
腺鼠疫又夺走近六成人口
bubonic plague took out almost 60% of the entire population.

325
00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:41,480
情况恶劣到连大教堂的
Things were so bad that even services in the cathedral

326
00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:42,600
宗教活动都暂停
were suspended.

327
00:17:44,160 --> 00:17:47,520
瘟疫时期的黑暗岁月已难觅踪迹
There is little evidence of those dark days of plague,

328
00:17:47,520 --> 00:17:51,800
但在布里金上游的金特罗卡特庄园
but just upstream from Brechin, on an estate called Kintrockat,

329
00:17:51,800 --> 00:17:53,280
有座奇特土丘
is a curious mound.

330
00:17:54,320 --> 00:17:58,760
并非瘟疫埋尸坑 而是更耐人寻味的
It's not a plague pit burial site, but something more intriguing.

331
00:17:58,760 --> 00:18:02,240
它展示了当布里金爆发瘟疫
It demonstrates how social distancing might have worked

332
00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:07,520
而其他地区安全时 如何实施社交隔离
when Brechin was affected by plague, and other places weren't.

333
00:18:07,520 --> 00:18:09,600
据早期记载
According to some early accounts,

334
00:18:09,600 --> 00:18:14,920
瘟疫爆发期间 此丘曾作为
this mound was once used as a kind of market or trading place

335
00:18:14,920 --> 00:18:16,560
特殊市集使用
when the plague struck.

336
00:18:16,560 --> 00:18:21,200
因禁止布里金居民与他人接触
Because people from Brechin were not allowed to mix with other folk,

337
00:18:21,200 --> 00:18:24,040
强制实行社交隔离
social distancing was enforced.

338
00:18:24,040 --> 00:18:27,640
交易时 所有待售商品
So in order to trade, all kinds of goods for sale

339
00:18:27,640 --> 00:18:31,680
都置于丘顶 旁设诚信钱箱
were placed up here alongside an honesty box.

340
00:18:31,680 --> 00:18:35,440
这段黑暗历史
Now, these were dark days indeed, and ones that chime

341
00:18:35,440 --> 00:18:38,760
与当下遥相呼应
with our own times.

342
00:18:38,760 --> 00:18:40,720
挥别瘟疫记忆
Shrugging off the plague,

343
00:18:40,720 --> 00:18:44,520
我重返南埃斯克河 看它流出布里金
I return to the South Esk, as it flows from Brechin

344
00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:46,400
穿过田野草甸
through fields and meadows.

345
00:18:46,400 --> 00:18:48,400
这段河道
For this section of the river,

346
00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:53,560
我借了皮划艇顺流而下约一英里
I've borrowed a kayak to go with the flow for a mile or so.

347
00:18:53,560 --> 00:18:57,640
有时唯有置身河上 才能真正领略
Sometimes it's only when you're on the river that you really get a true

348
00:18:57,640 --> 00:19:00,400
河流的本性 南埃斯克河正是如此
impression of its nature. And this is true, I think,

349
00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:04,440
其大部分河道都被
of the River South Esk, which, for most of its length,

350
00:19:04,440 --> 00:19:07,920
林木枝叶遮蔽
is hidden by a line of trees and foliage.

351
00:19:07,920 --> 00:19:11,400
此刻泛舟河上 方能真切
But now that I'm on the river itself, I can get a true

352
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:13,880
感知它的模样
understanding of what it's like.

353
00:19:13,880 --> 00:19:18,080
仿佛受邀进入圣所
I feel as if I've been ushered into the inner sanctum,

354
00:19:18,080 --> 00:19:21,400
不得不说真是美不胜收
which, I have to say, is really rather lovely.

355
00:19:24,760 --> 00:19:28,800
约一个半小时后抵达下一站
It takes about an hour and a half to reach my next destination.

356
00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:32,320
经过名为"病痛地"的不祥之地
Passing a place with the unhealthy sounding name of the Lurgies,

357
00:19:32,320 --> 00:19:37,360
河水开始受潮汐影响 我进入了蒙特罗斯盆地
the river becomes tidal as I enter the curious shallow waters and mud

358
00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:39,080
奇特的浅水泥滩
of the Montrose basin.

359
00:19:39,080 --> 00:19:42,560
这个英国最大的内陆咸水盆地
The largest inland saltwater basin in the UK,

360
00:19:42,560 --> 00:19:46,400
面积达750公顷
it covers a massive area of 750 hectares.

361
00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:50,720
此地风貌随潮汐
It's a place that changes character dramatically,

362
00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:54,000
涨落而剧变
depending on whether the tide is in or out.

363
00:19:54,000 --> 00:19:56,040
仅六个多小时
In just over six hours,

364
00:19:56,040 --> 00:20:00,400
就从内海变为
it's transformed from an inland sea to a vast expanse

365
00:20:00,400 --> 00:20:02,080
广袤的吸浆泥滩
of oozing, sucking mud.

366
00:20:03,360 --> 00:20:06,320
此地因极度平坦
This is an exceptional site for Scotland simply

367
00:20:06,320 --> 00:20:10,160
在苏格兰独树一帜 让我联想到
because it's so flat. It makes me think of, I don't know,

368
00:20:10,160 --> 00:20:12,240
荷兰或佛兰德斯地区
the Netherlands or Flanders, perhaps,

369
00:20:12,240 --> 00:20:14,520
地平线上的蒙特罗斯尖顶
with Montrose and its spires

370
00:20:14,520 --> 00:20:18,280
在苍穹映衬下显得格外渺小
on the horizon dwarfed by the great dome of the sky.

371
00:20:21,200 --> 00:20:26,120
苏格兰这片区域酷似荷兰的景象
The idea of this part of Scotland looking like Holland almost became

372
00:20:26,120 --> 00:20:30,640
在17世纪几乎成真 当时计划排干
a reality in the 17th century when plans were drawn up to drain

373
00:20:30,640 --> 00:20:34,240
盆地改造为农田
the basin and turn it into agricultural land.

374
00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:37,800
为探究泥滩如何可能变成荷兰式圩田
To find out how the mudflats might have become a Dutch polder,

375
00:20:37,800 --> 00:20:41,080
我约见当地历史学家福布斯·英格利斯
I'm meeting local historian Forbes Inglis.

376
00:20:41,080 --> 00:20:44,400
福布斯 据说这里曾被称为"沙地"
Forbes, I believe that at one time it was known as the Land of Sands.

377
00:20:44,400 --> 00:20:45,840
没错
That's correct.

378
00:20:45,840 --> 00:20:49,600
退潮时就是大片沙地
At low tide it's very much just an area of sand,

379
00:20:49,600 --> 00:20:51,360
当地渔民会来
which the locals used,

380
00:20:51,360 --> 00:20:55,200
挖掘沙虫作为鱼饵
the local fisherfolk would come here and dig from bait

381
00:20:55,200 --> 00:20:56,560
to bait their lines,

382
00:20:56,560 --> 00:20:59,240
维持原有地貌
so it was an important part of their livelihood

383
00:20:59,240 --> 00:21:01,120
关乎他们的生计
that it remained the way it was.

384
00:21:01,120 --> 00:21:03,640
但这种状态曾受威胁 确实如此
Yet that came under threat. It did indeed.

385
00:21:03,640 --> 00:21:07,800
17世纪末 当地庄园主决定
In the late 1600s, the local estate owners decided

386
00:21:07,800 --> 00:21:10,960
要开垦这片盆地
that they would like to reclaim the basin,

387
00:21:10,960 --> 00:21:14,320
请来荷兰工程师德罗纳
and they sent for a Dutch engineer called Dronner,

388
00:21:14,320 --> 00:21:16,560
他认为毫无难度
who came, and, of course, he saw no problem.

389
00:21:16,560 --> 00:21:19,720
荷兰人可是这方面的专家 正是
Well, the Dutch are the experts in these things. Well, absolutely.

390
00:21:19,720 --> 00:21:20,920
他的方案是？
So what was his plan, then?

391
00:21:20,920 --> 00:21:25,320
他计划在盆地中部建造堤坝
His plan was to build a dyke more or less up the middle of the basin,

392
00:21:25,320 --> 00:21:28,000
阻挡海水倒灌
and this would have kept the water back, the sea water back,

393
00:21:28,000 --> 00:21:31,080
开垦北侧土地
and allowed the north side of it to be reclaimed.

394
00:21:31,080 --> 00:21:33,680
堤坝另一侧将进行排水... 正是如此
And it would have been drained... It would have been, yes.

395
00:21:33,680 --> 00:21:35,440
..the land on the other side of the dyke.

396
00:21:35,440 --> 00:21:37,840
会变成荷兰圩田的模样...
And it would have looked like one of the Dutch polders...

397
00:21:37,840 --> 00:21:42,040
或许吧 ..风车 郁金香田和木鞋
Well, possibly. ..with windmills and tulip fields and clogs.

398
00:21:42,040 --> 00:21:43,320
没错 谁知道呢？
Yes. Who knows?

399
00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:46,720
可能永远改变苏格兰这片区域的历史
It might have changed the history of this part of Scotland forever.

400
00:21:48,840 --> 00:21:53,040
荷兰人德罗纳确实开始了宏伟堤坝的工程
The Dutchman, Dronner, actually began work on his mighty dyke.

401
00:21:53,040 --> 00:21:57,240
建成后将超过3公里长
When completed, it was going to be over 3km long,

402
00:21:57,240 --> 00:22:01,640
开垦千英亩新农田
creating 1,000 acres of new agricultural land.

403
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,200
从空中俯瞰 这个雄心勃勃的项目
From the air, a section of this ambitious project

404
00:22:05,200 --> 00:22:07,840
在退潮时仍可见部分遗迹
can still be seen at low tide.

405
00:22:07,840 --> 00:22:10,640
但最终未能完工
But it was never finished.

406
00:22:10,640 --> 00:22:11,840
发生了什么？
What happened?

407
00:22:11,840 --> 00:22:15,360
一场突如其来的风暴
What happened was a big storm blew up quite unexpectedly

408
00:22:15,360 --> 00:22:16,600
在非季风季节来袭
and out of season.

409
00:22:16,600 --> 00:22:20,000
人们归咎于超自然力量干预
This was put down to supernatural intervention,

410
00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:23,080
不幸的女子玛吉·考伊
and an unfortunate woman called Maggie Cowie,

411
00:22:23,080 --> 00:22:24,960
被视作当地女巫
she was seen to be a local witch.

412
00:22:24,960 --> 00:22:28,320
传说她将手指插入堤坝
She was supposed to have put her finger in the dyke.

413
00:22:28,320 --> 00:22:30,320
总是这样——手指插堤坝的传说？
Isn't it always the case - the finger in the dyke?

414
00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:32,360
我想说——这是常见桥段
I was going to say - that's a very common trope.

415
00:22:32,360 --> 00:22:34,480
确实司空见惯
A very common thing, yes, altogether.

416
00:22:34,480 --> 00:22:37,480
尽管未必是破坏堤坝
And she was found guilty of witchcraft, certainly,

417
00:22:37,480 --> 00:22:40,320
但她仍被判定施行巫术
if not of destroying the dyke,

418
00:22:40,320 --> 00:22:43,000
最终被火刑处死
and she actually was burned at the stake.

419
00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:44,480
真是可怕的悲剧
That's a terrible tragedy.

420
00:22:44,480 --> 00:22:45,760
她肯定无辜
She must have been innocent.

421
00:22:45,760 --> 00:22:48,880
巫术显然不存在 我怀疑
There's no such thing as witchcraft, obviously, and I suspect

422
00:22:48,880 --> 00:22:51,240
背后另有隐情
there was a different agenda being worked through here,

423
00:22:51,240 --> 00:22:54,520
毕竟并非所有市民都支持筑堤
because not everyone in the town wanted the dyke anyway.

424
00:22:54,520 --> 00:22:56,880
她可能只是替罪羊
She was possibly just a scapegoat.

425
00:22:56,880 --> 00:23:01,320
镇上反对该项目的声浪很大
I think there was a lot of feeling in the town against the project.

426
00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:04,720
但堤坝终究未建成 确实
But yet the dyke was never completed. That's correct.

427
00:23:04,720 --> 00:23:06,120
你认为原因何在？
So why do you think that was?

428
00:23:06,120 --> 00:23:10,160
庄园主可能认为这是天意
It may have been that the estate owners felt this was divine

429
00:23:10,160 --> 00:23:12,720
尽管有巫术指控
intervention, despite the allegations of witchcraft,

430
00:23:12,720 --> 00:23:15,160
觉得征兆不吉
so they may have felt the omens were against it.

431
00:23:15,160 --> 00:23:17,520
所以计划夭折 无果而终
So it wasn't to be.  It wasn't to be.

432
00:23:19,840 --> 00:23:24,640
盆地得以保全 蒙特罗斯城因此
So the basin was spared, and the town of Montrose looked to the sea

433
00:23:24,640 --> 00:23:27,520
更倚重海洋而非陆地
and less to the land, as a consequence.

434
00:23:27,520 --> 00:23:28,960
作为贸易港口
As a trading port,

435
00:23:28,960 --> 00:23:33,400
该城与波罗的海和欧洲大陆通商
the town did business with the Baltic and continental Europe.

436
00:23:33,400 --> 00:23:36,840
宽阔的主街与精美建筑
The wide main street and the fine buildings that line it

437
00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:39,480
彰显昔日贸易繁荣
reflect that former trading wealth.

438
00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:44,000
众多伟人雕像中 不同寻常地
Among the statues to the great and the good is one, unusually,

439
00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:48,160
有尊面向海港
to a dog, who looks sadly and longingly out to sea

440
00:23:48,160 --> 00:23:51,640
凝望大海的犬像
from his place on the harbour-front.

441
00:23:51,640 --> 00:23:53,640
这是头巨型猛犬
He's a massive beast.

442
00:23:53,640 --> 00:23:58,440
圣伯纳犬 名叫班塞
He's a St Bernard, and he has a name - Bamse.

443
00:23:58,440 --> 00:24:03,240
安德鲁·奥尔为这头英雄犬著书
Andrew Orr has written a book about the heroic dog who inspired

444
00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:07,000
纪念雕像由此而立
the statue that is now dedicated to his memory.

445
00:24:07,000 --> 00:24:11,240
安德鲁 班塞是条见多识广的狗吧？
Andrew, Bamse the dog here was a well-travelled beast, was he not?

446
00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:12,720
确实如此
He certainly was.

447
00:24:12,720 --> 00:24:17,680
来自挪威最北端的北角
He came from the very far north of Norway, up at the North Cape,

448
00:24:17,680 --> 00:24:20,040
原是家养宠物
where he was a domestic pet.

449
00:24:20,040 --> 00:24:23,200
1939年战争爆发时
And when war broke out in 1939,

450
00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:27,480
被带上艘生锈的旧捕鲸船
he was taken on board a rusty old whaling ship

451
00:24:27,480 --> 00:24:31,240
该船被征入挪威皇家海军
commandeered for service in the Royal Norwegian Navy,

452
00:24:31,240 --> 00:24:35,280
船长让它担任
and he was taken on board by the ship's captain,

453
00:24:35,280 --> 00:24:36,800
舰船吉祥物
as the ship's mascot.

454
00:24:40,400 --> 00:24:44,040
1940年纳粹德国占领挪威
In 1940, Nazi Germany occupied Norway.

455
00:24:44,040 --> 00:24:47,720
班塞服役的舰船随挪威皇家海军
The ship Bamse served aboard escaped to Scotland,

456
00:24:47,720 --> 00:24:52,120
其他12艘舰艇逃往苏格兰
along with the 12 other vessels of the Royal Norwegian Navy.

457
00:24:52,120 --> 00:24:56,640
从蒙特罗斯继续抗击纳粹
From Montrose, they continued their fight against the Nazis.

458
00:24:56,640 --> 00:24:59,840
班塞真参加过战斗？
Did Bamse actually see active service?

459
00:24:59,840 --> 00:25:01,400
当然
He certainly did.

460
00:25:01,400 --> 00:25:04,200
当斯图卡俯冲轰炸机来袭时
When the Stuka divers were diving,

461
00:25:04,200 --> 00:25:07,840
它从不躲藏
the dog wouldn't scuttle away down below.

462
00:25:07,840 --> 00:25:12,320
始终与年轻水兵坚守甲板 鼓舞士气
He stayed on deck with the young sailors and gave them courage.

463
00:25:12,320 --> 00:25:14,200
还会冲到
And, moreover, he moved forward

464
00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:17,440
前方炮台位置
right up to the forward gun emplacement,

465
00:25:17,440 --> 00:25:23,040
直面敌人...
and stood there as it were facing the enemy in the eye...

466
00:25:23,040 --> 00:25:25,200
凶猛地吠叫吗？
And barked ferociously, did he?

467
00:25:25,200 --> 00:25:27,240
..龇牙示威
..and showed his teeth.

468
00:25:30,240 --> 00:25:34,600
战火中的英勇使班塞从舰船吉祥物
Bamse's courage under fire elevated him from ship's mascot

469
00:25:34,600 --> 00:25:38,680
晋升为所有自由挪威军队的
to become a mascot for all the Free Norwegian forces fighting

470
00:25:38,680 --> 00:25:39,880
战时精神象征
during the war.

471
00:25:39,880 --> 00:25:42,680
不作战时
And when he wasn't facing down the enemy,

472
00:25:42,680 --> 00:25:44,880
它在蒙特罗斯享受休整
he enjoyed R&R in Montrose.

473
00:25:46,280 --> 00:25:49,920
港口周边酒馆林立 它可是
There are a lot of pubs around any port, and he was well known

474
00:25:49,920 --> 00:25:56,800
锚酒吧和卡利多尼亚酒吧的常客
in all of them, particularly The Anchor Bar and the Caledonian.

475
00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:01,000
最爱喝啤酒
And he enjoyed a pint of beer very much.

476
00:26:04,360 --> 00:26:08,880
战斗的压力最终拖垮了它
The stress and strain of active service eventually took its toll.

477
00:26:08,880 --> 00:26:13,440
1944年勇敢的班塞因心力衰竭去世
In 1944 brave Bamse died of heart failure.

478
00:26:13,440 --> 00:26:17,480
八百多人参加它在蒙特罗斯海滩
Over 800 people turned out for his funeral in the sand dunes

479
00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:19,760
附近沙丘的葬礼
close to Montrose Beach.

480
00:26:19,760 --> 00:26:22,920
如今这座面朝北海彼岸
Today, his statue, which looks towards his homeland

481
00:26:22,920 --> 00:26:27,200
故乡的雕像 纪念这只
across the North Sea, commemorates the big dog who did so much

482
00:26:27,200 --> 00:26:30,360
二战期间极大提振士气的巨犬
to boost morale during the Second World War.

483
00:26:33,400 --> 00:26:37,240
离开港口 我再次回到南埃斯克河
Leaving the harbour, I return to the South Esk once more.

484
00:26:37,240 --> 00:26:42,160
这段短河道连接蒙特罗斯盆地与公海
This short stretch connects Montrose Basin to the open sea.

485
00:26:42,160 --> 00:26:45,680
18世纪首座桥梁建成前
Before the first bridge was built here in the 18th century,

486
00:26:45,680 --> 00:26:49,280
繁忙的渡船曾来回穿梭
there used to be a busy wee ferry crossing backwards and forwards

487
00:26:49,280 --> 00:26:54,320
运送人员和货物进出蒙特罗斯镇
over the River Esk, carrying people and goods into the town of Montrose.

488
00:26:54,320 --> 00:26:57,640
现在我要回溯时光 走水路
Now I'm winding the clock back a wee bit and taking to the water

489
00:26:57,640 --> 00:26:59,560
前往下个目的地
to reach my next destination -

490
00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:03,320
名字恰如其分的小村庄费里登
a wee village very appropriately called Ferryden,

491
00:27:03,320 --> 00:27:05,280
就在前方
and it lies just ahead of me.

492
00:27:06,760 --> 00:27:09,480
渡河仅需几分钟
It only takes a couple of minutes to cross over,

493
00:27:09,480 --> 00:27:12,320
却让人忆起早年间
but it's a journey that recalls earlier times,

494
00:27:12,320 --> 00:27:15,200
当人们因必须渡河
when people were perhaps more aware of the river,

495
00:27:15,200 --> 00:27:19,040
而对河流更有感知的年代
simply because they had to cross it.

496
00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,840
费里登兴起于18世纪 当时东北海岸
Ferryden grew up in the 1700s, when fishermen from the northeast

497
00:27:23,840 --> 00:27:27,600
渔民来此定居 利用河口
coast settled here to take advantage of the fishing grounds

498
00:27:27,600 --> 00:27:29,440
渔场谋生
at the mouth of the river.

499
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:37,200
南埃斯克河壮游的最后一段旅程
The last stretch of my grand tour down the River South Esk takes me

500
00:27:37,200 --> 00:27:41,400
带我来到河口岩岸上的灯塔
to the lighthouse built on a rocky shore overlooking the mouth

501
00:27:41,400 --> 00:27:44,360
此地有个荣耀的名字——斯库迪角
of the river. A place that glories in the name Scurdie Ness.

502
00:27:48,000 --> 00:27:51,800
灯塔建成前 这片海岸
Before the lighthouse was built, there were many wrecks on this part

503
00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:55,000
常有船只遇难 当它们试图
of the coast, when boats tried to reach the harbour mouth

504
00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:56,680
在恶劣天气进港时
in bad weather.

505
00:27:56,680 --> 00:28:01,280
绝望的费里登渔民请愿建造灯塔
The desperate fisherfolk from Ferryden petitioned for a lighthouse

506
00:28:01,280 --> 00:28:04,720
避免更多海员丧生
to prevent further loss of life among seafarers.

507
00:28:07,160 --> 00:28:09,640
1870年灯塔首次点亮时
When the light was first lit in 1870,

508
00:28:09,640 --> 00:28:13,080
对岸海滩聚集的民众
a great cheer went up from a crowd of local people

509
00:28:13,080 --> 00:28:15,520
发出热烈欢呼
assembled on the beach opposite,

510
00:28:15,520 --> 00:28:20,240
成为我结束南埃斯克河壮游
making this an ideal place for me to end my grand tour

511
00:28:20,240 --> 00:28:21,880
的理想终点
down the River South Esk,

512
00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:25,800
从闪耀的斯凯利斯岩直到斯库迪角
all the way from the Glittering Skellies to Scurdie Ness.

513
00:28:28,800 --> 00:28:31,240
本系列最后的旅程中
On my final grand tour in this series,

514
00:28:31,240 --> 00:28:34,240
我将探索历史悠久的
I'll be travelling through a landscape rich in history,

515
00:28:34,240 --> 00:28:36,840
艾尔河流域
as I explore the River Ayr.