1 00:00:07,520 --> 00:00:11,000 我的斯佩河溯源之旅从源头到大海 My journey down the River Spey from source to sea 2 00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:13,600 继续向海岸进发 continues towards the coast. 3 00:00:13,600 --> 00:00:17,600 斯佩河北流至马里湾时河道渐宽 The Spey widens as it flows north to the Moray Firth, 4 00:00:17,600 --> 00:00:22,840 蜿蜒穿过依赖河流滋养的丰饶林地田野与村镇 meandering through a fertile land of woods and fields, towns and villages 5 00:00:22,840 --> 00:00:25,560 这片土地皆仰赖斯佩河滋养 that all depend on the river. 6 00:00:30,080 --> 00:00:33,000 苏格兰的河流塑造了这个国家 Scotland's rivers have shaped the nation 7 00:00:33,000 --> 00:00:36,040 是最珍贵的自然瑰宝 and are among the country's greatest treasures. 8 00:00:39,000 --> 00:00:40,760 自远古时代起 Since the earliest times, 9 00:00:40,760 --> 00:00:43,720 河流就是天然交通要道 rivers have been used as natural highways. 10 00:00:43,720 --> 00:00:47,000 最早的城镇沿河岸而建 Along their banks, the first towns and cities were built, 11 00:00:47,000 --> 00:00:48,840 作为自然资源 and as a natural resource, 12 00:00:48,840 --> 00:00:52,920 河流为我们提供丰富食物与动力 rivers have provided us with an abundance of food and power. 13 00:00:55,240 --> 00:00:58,000 本系列中我将遇见一群 In this series, I'll meet a cast of characters 14 00:00:58,000 --> 00:01:01,560 生活在伟大水道沿岸的非凡人物 who live along the banks of our great waterways. 15 00:01:01,560 --> 00:01:04,440 发掘往昔迷人传说 Uncovering intriguing tales from the past, 16 00:01:04,440 --> 00:01:07,920 我开启穿越苏格兰的壮游 I travel across Scotland on a grand tour 17 00:01:07,920 --> 00:01:11,040 探索生命之源的原始水域 to explore the original waters of life. 18 00:01:13,240 --> 00:01:16,480 这次壮游我将亲临水域... On this grand tour, I take to the water... 19 00:01:16,480 --> 00:01:18,000 美不胜收 It is so beautiful. 20 00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:20,720 四季皆景 I mean, beautiful any season as well. 21 00:01:20,720 --> 00:01:23,000 ..品尝斯佩塞风味... ..enjoy a taste of Speyside... 22 00:01:23,000 --> 00:01:24,560 干杯 干杯 Slainte. Slainte. Cheers. 23 00:01:24,560 --> 00:01:26,720 ..寻找隐秘宝藏... ..search for hidden treasures... 24 00:01:26,720 --> 00:01:30,280 这是英国现存最大规模的 This is the largest population of freshwater pearl mussels 25 00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:31,760 淡水珍珠贻贝种群 left in the whole of the UK. 26 00:01:31,760 --> 00:01:35,480 ..继续丰饶的斯佩河之旅 ..as I continue down the bountiful River Spey. 27 00:01:47,640 --> 00:01:51,640 本期探索斯佩河下游流域 This programme explores the lower reaches of the Spey. 28 00:01:51,640 --> 00:01:55,480 这条以森林、威士忌酒厂 It's a route famous for its forests, whisky distilleries 29 00:01:55,480 --> 00:01:59,040 和鲑鱼闻名的水道向北奔流入海 and salmon, as it flows north towards the coast. 30 00:02:01,320 --> 00:02:03,800 斯佩河两岸延伸着 Sweeping up from the banks of the Spey 31 00:02:03,800 --> 00:02:07,240 苏格兰两处最著名的原始森林—— are two of Scotland's most renowned native forests - 32 00:02:07,240 --> 00:02:09,800 罗斯穆丘斯与阿伯内西 Rothiemurchus and Abernethy. 33 00:02:11,680 --> 00:02:16,400 它们共同构成凯恩戈姆国家公园的绿色心脏 Together, they form the green heart of the Cairngorms National Park. 34 00:02:18,880 --> 00:02:22,440 苏格兰松是这片特殊林地 The Scots pine is the iconic tree species here 35 00:02:22,440 --> 00:02:27,400 的标志树种 孕育着众多本土野生动物 in a special woodland that's home to a host of native wildlife. 36 00:02:29,120 --> 00:02:33,000 红松鼠、鱼鹰、松貂和鹿群 Red squirrels, ospreys, pine marten and deer 37 00:02:33,000 --> 00:02:35,600 是这片美妙环境中 are among the diverse range of animals 38 00:02:35,600 --> 00:02:38,280 茁壮成长的众多物种代表 that thrive in this wonderful environment. 39 00:02:41,600 --> 00:02:47,000 森林深处藏着神秘美丽的安洛坎乌安湖 Lying in the heart of the forest is a mysterious and beautiful loch, 40 00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:50,920 盖尔语意为"绿湖" An Lochan Uaine, which translates from Gaelic 41 00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:53,200 意为"绿湖" as the green lochan. 42 00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:59,280 当地传说这里是精灵出没之地—— A place that local legend claims is the haunt of fairies - 43 00:02:59,280 --> 00:03:02,040 也是野泳者的乐园 and wild swimmers. 44 00:03:06,120 --> 00:03:11,720 洛坎乌安湖景绝美 湖水确实碧绿—— Lochan Uaine is a superb location, and it really is green - 45 00:03:11,720 --> 00:03:14,920 绿得近乎魔幻 诱人跃入 almost magically so, enticingly so. 46 00:03:14,920 --> 00:03:17,440 我不禁想小游一番 And I'm tempted to go in for a wee dip. 47 00:03:17,440 --> 00:03:19,480 当地传说称 According to local legend, 48 00:03:19,480 --> 00:03:22,160 湖水泛绿是因为精灵们 the water is green because the fairies 49 00:03:22,160 --> 00:03:24,360 在此浣洗衣物 do their clothes washing here. 50 00:03:24,360 --> 00:03:27,840 要我说这解释牵强又不卫生 This seems a poor and somewhat unhygienic explanation, 51 00:03:27,840 --> 00:03:31,280 ——虽然我并非不信精灵 if you ask me - not that I don't believe in fairies. 52 00:03:31,280 --> 00:03:34,520 但要染绿整个湖泊 得用上 But to dye the loch would take an industrial quantity 53 00:03:34,520 --> 00:03:36,040 堆积如山的绿色衣物 of their green laundry. 54 00:03:37,880 --> 00:03:39,760 照理说时至今日 And you would have thought by now 55 00:03:39,760 --> 00:03:42,800 科学早该给出合理解释 that science would have come up with a credible answer. 56 00:03:42,800 --> 00:03:45,920 但询问过几位地质学家 But having spoken to several geologists I know, 57 00:03:45,920 --> 00:03:47,600 包括我弟弟在内 including my brother, 58 00:03:47,600 --> 00:03:50,560 无人能确切解释 no-one has come up with a definitive answer 59 00:03:50,560 --> 00:03:53,480 湖水为何如此碧绿 as to why the loch is so green. 60 00:03:54,720 --> 00:03:57,000 有人说是悬浮矿物质 Minerals in suspension have been mentioned, 61 00:03:57,000 --> 00:04:00,400 藻类或铜元素所致 algae and even copper. 62 00:04:00,400 --> 00:04:02,000 天晓得呢？ So who knows? 63 00:04:02,000 --> 00:04:06,160 但有一点很确定——湖水看起来刺骨寒冷 But one thing is for sure - it does look very chilly. 64 00:04:06,160 --> 00:04:10,000 寒风也开始呼啸 There's also a rather chilly wind beginning to blow. 65 00:04:10,000 --> 00:04:13,240 我鼓足勇气几近全裸 I strip as close as I dare to being naked 66 00:04:13,240 --> 00:04:16,440 在凛冽空气中试水 in the icy air and test the waters, 67 00:04:16,440 --> 00:04:20,160 几周前湖面还结着冰 which just a few weeks ago were still frozen over. 68 00:04:20,160 --> 00:04:22,640 嚯！真是透心凉 Phwoar! This is pretty chilly. 69 00:04:22,640 --> 00:04:26,320 这水温足以让人心脏停跳 The water is cold enough to stop your heart. 70 00:04:26,320 --> 00:04:28,280 潜入洛坎乌安湖！ Into Lochan Uaine! 71 00:04:31,400 --> 00:04:33,960 啊 冻死人了！ Oh, it's freezing! 72 00:04:33,960 --> 00:04:35,760 不建议尝试！ I wouldn't recommend this! 73 00:04:35,760 --> 00:04:38,000 够刺激了 Oh, that's enough for me. 74 00:04:39,240 --> 00:04:41,880 像电流穿过全身 It's like an electric current going through your body. 75 00:04:41,880 --> 00:04:43,280 太冷了！ It's so cold! 76 00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:48,480 刚从安洛坎乌安湖的冰水中 Having only just survive the ice-cold waters 77 00:04:48,480 --> 00:04:50,320 死里逃生 of An Lochan Uaine, 78 00:04:50,320 --> 00:04:54,000 我继续前往阿伯内西森林 I continue on my journey to Abernethy Forest, 79 00:04:54,000 --> 00:04:57,720 这片卡利多尼亚森林的壮丽遗迹 a magnificent relic of the Caledonian Forest 80 00:04:57,720 --> 00:05:01,960 曾覆盖苏格兰大片土地 which once covered great swathes of Scotland. 81 00:05:01,960 --> 00:05:05,760 如今这奇迹般的幸存者 Today, this amazing survivor is just a fragment 82 00:05:05,760 --> 00:05:07,480 仅是昔日规模的碎片 of what there once was. 83 00:05:08,920 --> 00:05:11,840 这片森林以野生动物闻名 The forest is rightly famous for its wildlife, 84 00:05:11,840 --> 00:05:16,440 但鲜为人知的是它承载着 but there's a surprisingly long and often forgotten human history 85 00:05:16,440 --> 00:05:18,040 悠长的人类历史 that needs to be told. 86 00:05:23,560 --> 00:05:26,920 为深入了解 我约见了当地专家 To learn more, I'm meeting up with local expert 87 00:05:26,920 --> 00:05:28,520 埃尔斯佩斯·格兰特 Elspeth Grant. 88 00:05:28,520 --> 00:05:30,360 这是斯皮奥拉德湖 This is Loch an Spioraid. 89 00:05:31,600 --> 00:05:36,160 但在17至19世纪时 But back in the 17th, 18th, 19th centuries, 90 00:05:36,160 --> 00:05:39,000 它被称为费歇尔拉赫水坝 it was known as the Faesheallach Dam. 91 00:05:39,000 --> 00:05:42,640 费歇尔拉赫水坝是水坝网络的一部分 The Faesheallach Dam was part of a network of dams 92 00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:47,120 用于开发森林木材资源 created to exploit the forest for its timber. 93 00:05:47,120 --> 00:05:51,000 这些水坝蓄水后开闸放水 These dams were used to hold water, which, when released, 94 00:05:51,000 --> 00:05:54,920 将原木从森林冲至斯佩河 would transport logs from the forest down to the River Spey 95 00:05:54,920 --> 00:05:59,800 最终抵达加茅斯用于造船 and on to Garmouth, where they were used in shipbuilding. 96 00:05:59,800 --> 00:06:03,440 埃尔斯佩斯有张古地图展示 Elspeth has an old map which illustrates what this area 97 00:06:03,440 --> 00:06:06,280 该地区工业鼎盛时期的面貌 looked like at its industrial peak. 98 00:06:06,280 --> 00:06:13,840 这是1858年地图显示湖泊原貌 This is a map from 1858 showing this loch here as it was. Yes. 99 00:06:13,840 --> 00:06:15,480 当时标注为水坝 And it's called the dam there. 100 00:06:15,480 --> 00:06:17,160 没错 That's right, yeah. 101 00:06:17,160 --> 00:06:23,040 显示溪流被改道入湖 And it shows the burn, which was diverted into the loch 102 00:06:23,040 --> 00:06:24,640 形成这座水坝 and created this dam. 103 00:06:24,640 --> 00:06:27,640 这里有两处出水口... 原来如此！ And then there's the two outlets... Oh, I see! 104 00:06:27,640 --> 00:06:30,600 ..就是闸门所在 ..where the sluice gates were. 105 00:06:30,600 --> 00:06:34,520 为演示这套水路运输系统 To demonstrate how this watery system of export worked, 106 00:06:34,520 --> 00:06:39,000 埃尔斯佩斯将带我展开森林迷你之旅 Elspeth is going to take me on a mini-grand tour of the forest. 107 00:06:39,000 --> 00:06:43,240 首站是贯穿森林的深沟 First stop is a deep trench that cuts through the trees. 108 00:06:43,240 --> 00:06:46,000 这是什么工程？ Now, what's going on here? 109 00:06:46,000 --> 00:06:48,000 是志愿工作队 We've got a work party. 110 00:06:48,000 --> 00:06:49,280 是的 Yes. 111 00:06:49,280 --> 00:06:52,000 他们正在清理水道 They're helping to clear the channel, 112 00:06:52,000 --> 00:06:56,280 这条水渠曾为杜亚克锯木厂 which was once a water lade that fed a holding dam 113 00:06:56,280 --> 00:06:58,160 的蓄水池供水 that powered a sawmill at the Duack. 114 00:06:59,160 --> 00:07:02,080 大家辛苦了 再见 Carry on the good work, folks. Cheerio. 115 00:07:02,080 --> 00:07:06,760 水流沿水道行进约1英里至蓄水池 The water would travel about a mile down the lade to a holding dam, 116 00:07:06,760 --> 00:07:10,000 通过闸门控制水流 where a sluice gate was used to control the flow of water 117 00:07:10,000 --> 00:07:11,600 驱动锯木厂 to the sawmills. 118 00:07:15,000 --> 00:07:17,640 这些锯木厂加工的原木 The mills were built to process the timber 119 00:07:17,640 --> 00:07:20,320 最终将沿斯佩河运输 that would eventually travel down the River Spey. 120 00:07:21,520 --> 00:07:24,160 部分锯木厂直至两次世界大战期间 Some of these sawmills were still being used 121 00:07:24,160 --> 00:07:26,920 仍在使用 during the two World Wars. 122 00:07:26,920 --> 00:07:28,360 为加快采伐 To help with the harvest, 123 00:07:28,360 --> 00:07:31,640 还从加拿大招募伐木队 squads of lumberjacks from Canada were recruited 124 00:07:31,640 --> 00:07:36,000 为战争进行关键木材生产 to undertake this vital work for the war effort. 125 00:07:36,000 --> 00:07:38,400 新闻播报：当军需部号召增产木材 NEWSCASTER: Now, when the Ministry of Supply call for wood 126 00:07:38,400 --> 00:07:41,040 这些硬汉们立即投入工作 and yet more wood, the hardy lads go to work. 127 00:07:43,400 --> 00:07:47,280 走出森林 我们来到内西桥 Emerging from the forest, we arrive at Nethy Bridge, 128 00:07:47,280 --> 00:07:49,000 内西河流经村庄 close to where the River Nethy, 129 00:07:49,000 --> 00:07:52,400 在此汇入斯佩河 which flows through the village, joins the Spey. 130 00:07:52,400 --> 00:07:54,000 出人意料的是 Perhaps surprisingly, 131 00:07:54,000 --> 00:07:57,800 这个风景如画的社区曾有过工业历史 this picturesque community has an industrial past, 132 00:07:57,800 --> 00:08:00,760 都与环绕河流的森林息息相关 all linked to the forest that surrounds the river. 133 00:08:00,760 --> 00:08:04,600 这里曾同时运作着四五家锯木厂 So there was four or five sawmills at one time. 134 00:08:04,600 --> 00:08:09,560 嗯 还有家制管厂专门生产 Uh-Huh. But also a pipe boring mill which actually produced 135 00:08:09,560 --> 00:08:12,200 供应伦敦的木制水管 wooden water pipes for London. 136 00:08:12,200 --> 00:08:16,400 真的吗？但很难想象有人能在此 Really? But it is hard to imagine anyone being able to float logs 137 00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:17,880 漂流原木 down here at all. 138 00:08:17,880 --> 00:08:22,320 原木会在内西河与斯佩河交汇处 Yeah, so the timber was assembled into bigger rafts 139 00:08:22,320 --> 00:08:24,920 扎成大型木筏 just at the mouth of the Nethy with the Spey, 140 00:08:24,920 --> 00:08:28,560 然后乘着这些木筏 and then floated down on these bigger rafts 141 00:08:28,560 --> 00:08:30,800 漂流约40英里抵达加茅斯 the 40 miles or so to Garmouth. 142 00:08:31,880 --> 00:08:37,320 工人会坐在木筏上用长篙 Men would sit on top of these rafts and use long poles known as cleeks 143 00:08:37,320 --> 00:08:39,600 引导木筏前往斯佩河口的 to help guide them to the shipbuilding yards 144 00:08:39,600 --> 00:08:42,320 造船厂 at the mouth of the Spey. 145 00:08:42,320 --> 00:08:45,680 这段木材的非凡旅程 This was an extraordinary journey made by the timber, 146 00:08:45,680 --> 00:08:49,840 从阿伯内西森林直到七大洋 from Abernethy Forest to sailing the Seven Seas. 147 00:08:53,000 --> 00:08:57,840 离开内西桥 我继续沿斯佩河前行 Leaving Nethy Bridge, I resume my journey along the River Spey. 148 00:08:57,840 --> 00:09:00,320 斯佩河伐木业的往事 The story of the Spey logging industry 149 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:02,360 或许已被淡忘 may largely have been forgotten, 150 00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:06,040 但这条河的韵律举世闻名 but the rhythm of the river is famous throughout the world. 151 00:09:07,480 --> 00:09:10,920 "斯特拉斯佩"一词不仅让人联想到 The word Strathspey not only conjures up the river 152 00:09:10,920 --> 00:09:16,480 千姿百态的河流 更指代它孕育的音乐舞蹈 and its many moods, but also the music and dance it inspired. 153 00:09:16,480 --> 00:09:18,960 [小提琴音乐] FIDDLE MUSIC 154 00:09:20,560 --> 00:09:25,920 我拜访了传统小提琴家兼作曲家保罗·安德森 I joined Paul Anderson, a renowned traditional fiddler and composer 155 00:09:25,920 --> 00:09:29,000 在塔洛戈勒姆——这个催生了 at Tullochgorum, a place which has inspired 156 00:09:29,000 --> 00:09:31,920 同名斯特拉斯佩舞曲的地方 its very own Strathspey reel. 157 00:09:31,920 --> 00:09:37,200 我渴望了解这种音乐风格的起源 I'm eager to learn more about how this style of music came to be. 158 00:09:37,200 --> 00:09:41,880 斯特拉斯佩最初被称为斯特拉斯佩里尔舞曲 Originally, Strathspeys were known as Strathspey reels. 159 00:09:41,880 --> 00:09:45,480 里尔舞是广为人知的舞蹈... So the reel, which is kind of a very well known dance... 160 00:09:45,480 --> 00:09:47,360 各地都有这种舞曲 I mean, you find them all o'er the place. 161 00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:49,560 爱尔兰 英格兰都有 You get them in Ireland, obviously. In England. 162 00:09:49,560 --> 00:09:54,200 但最古老的里尔舞记载源自苏格兰 But the oldest accounts of the reel are found in Scotland. 163 00:09:54,200 --> 00:09:56,440 斯特拉斯佩极具苏格兰特色 Strathspey is very distinctly Scottish. 164 00:09:56,440 --> 00:09:59,400 有些里尔舞曲逐渐发展出 So there would have been reels that begun to pick up 165 00:09:59,400 --> 00:10:01,680 独特而强烈的节奏 a very distinctive, strong rhythm. 166 00:10:01,680 --> 00:10:04,080 音乐与舞蹈其实是同步发展的 We'd develop hand in hand, actually. 167 00:10:04,080 --> 00:10:05,880 舞蹈形式演进时 I think the dance would develop, 168 00:10:05,880 --> 00:10:09,080 音乐也随之变化 and the music would go hand in hand with that. 169 00:10:09,080 --> 00:10:12,200 舞者会对乐手的演奏做出反应 I think the dancer will respond to the musician. 170 00:10:12,200 --> 00:10:15,200 斯特拉斯佩也有独特音效 Uh-hu. And the Strathspey's got a distinctive sound as well. 171 00:10:15,200 --> 00:10:17,000 是什么音效？ What is that sound? 172 00:10:17,000 --> 00:10:21,800 首先要提到"弹音" I suppose the first thing I would probably look at would be what's 173 00:10:21,800 --> 00:10:26,040 也称"弹弓音"或"苏格兰弹音" known as The Snap, or it was sometimes called Snap Bow 174 00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:27,560 和苏格兰弹音 and Scotch Snap. 175 00:10:27,560 --> 00:10:31,760 虽然我不擅歌唱 但就像塔洛戈勒姆里的 And it's... I'm nay a singer, of course, but it's that feel, 176 00:10:31,760 --> 00:10:33,240 那种韵律 like in Tullochgorum, 177 00:10:33,240 --> 00:10:34,960 # 哒-呀-哒-咚 哒-呀-哒-哒 # Day-y-da-dum, day-y-da-da, 178 00:10:34,960 --> 00:10:38,640 # 吧-咚-吧-哒-咚-哒-呀 吧-哒-吧-嗒-嘿 哒-咚... # # ba-dum-ba-da-dum-da-yy, ba-da-ba-ta-he, da-dum... # 179 00:10:38,640 --> 00:10:39,960 那个"哒-咚"... that "da-dum..." 180 00:10:41,160 --> 00:10:45,280 斯特拉斯佩音乐深受同名大河影响 It feels like a given that Strathspey music would be influenced 181 00:10:45,280 --> 00:10:48,720 似乎是理所当然的 by the mighty river it shares a name with. 182 00:10:48,720 --> 00:10:51,720 你能找到约50首 You could easily get about 50 tunes 183 00:10:51,720 --> 00:10:54,320 受河流及周边启发的曲调 that are inspired by the river or places nearby. 184 00:10:54,320 --> 00:10:56,680 比如《塔洛戈勒姆》《克雷格拉奇桥》 I mean, Tullochgorum's one, Craigellachie Brig, 185 00:10:56,680 --> 00:11:01,280 还有詹姆斯·斯科特·斯金纳的 but then there's tunes like The Music Of Spey 186 00:11:01,280 --> 00:11:02,600 《斯佩河之音》 by James Scott Skinner. 187 00:11:02,600 --> 00:11:05,040 他曾在阿伯劳尔住过 He lived at Aberlour for a wee while. 188 00:11:05,040 --> 00:11:07,280 还创作过《暴涨的斯佩河》 He also wrote The Spey In Spate. 189 00:11:07,280 --> 00:11:13,000 那首曲子展现了这条河完全不同的风貌 Now, that's a completely different aspect to that particular river. 190 00:11:13,000 --> 00:11:15,800 斯佩河是不列颠群岛流速最快的河流 I think it's the fastest flowing river in the British Isles, 191 00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,680 洪水期的汹涌澎湃 so you can imagine spates, quite fearsome, 192 00:11:18,680 --> 00:11:20,480 都在音乐中得到体现 so the music, it reflects it. 193 00:11:20,480 --> 00:11:22,160 这种音乐的未来如何？ What about the future of the music? 194 00:11:22,160 --> 00:11:25,160 我自己也创作斯特拉斯佩 因为喜欢 I mean, I write strathspeys myself, cos I like them. 195 00:11:25,160 --> 00:11:30,480 热爱演奏 也尽力创作优秀的斯佩河风格 I love playing them, and I love trying my best to write a good sort of spey, 196 00:11:30,480 --> 00:11:32,960 现在仍有人创作这类曲子 but no, no, folks still write them. 197 00:11:32,960 --> 00:11:37,000 它会持续发展 成为文化的一部分 It will continue to develop and be part of our culture. 198 00:11:37,000 --> 00:11:41,880 只要人们还热爱苏格兰传统音乐舞蹈 As long as folk like traditional Scottish music and dance, Highland 199 00:11:41,880 --> 00:11:43,680 高地舞或苏格兰乡村舞... dancing or Scottish country dancing... 200 00:11:43,680 --> 00:11:46,520 苏格兰弹音就永不过时 充满活力 There's life yet in the Scotch Snap. Oh, plenty of life yet. 201 00:11:50,280 --> 00:11:53,880 短暂音乐之旅后 我重返河畔 After my brief musical interlude, I returned to the river, 202 00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:55,800 长距离步道斯佩河之路 where the long-distance path, 203 00:11:55,800 --> 00:11:59,400 沿河通向斯佩河畔格兰敦镇 The Speyside Way, follows its course towards the town 204 00:11:59,400 --> 00:12:00,880 of Grantown-on-Spey. 205 00:12:03,560 --> 00:12:07,320 格兰敦最初是作为高地新城建造 Grantown was originally built as a Highland new town 206 00:12:07,320 --> 00:12:10,560 由当地大地主 and was conceived by the big landowner in the area, 207 00:12:10,560 --> 00:12:14,040 牛津毕业的詹姆斯·格兰特爵士规划 the Oxford-educated Sir James Grant. 208 00:12:17,200 --> 00:12:22,000 1765年 詹姆斯爵士结束欧洲壮游归来 In 1765, Sir James returned from a continental grand tour. 209 00:12:23,920 --> 00:12:28,640 这位年轻的族长满脑子改良思想 宣布建立 The young clan chief's head was full of improving ideas, and he announced 210 00:12:28,640 --> 00:12:32,840 以自己名字命名的新城镇——格兰敦 the establishment of a new town, to be named after him - Grantown. 211 00:12:34,840 --> 00:12:38,720 整齐的花岗岩房屋与优雅的镇广场 With its neat granite houses and elegant town square, 212 00:12:38,720 --> 00:12:42,560 使格兰敦被视为成功典范 Grantown was considered to be a success story and earned 213 00:12:42,560 --> 00:12:46,240 其创建者赢得了"好人詹姆斯爵士"称号 for its founder the title The Good Sir James Grant. 214 00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:50,440 格兰特的改良现代化理念 Grant's drive to improve and modernise chimed 215 00:12:50,440 --> 00:12:53,000 与启蒙时代精神共鸣 with the Enlightenment principles of the day. 216 00:12:53,000 --> 00:12:56,960 詹姆斯爵士希望他的格兰敦能教化 Sir James hoped that his Grantown would have a civilising effect 217 00:12:56,960 --> 00:13:00,920 桀骜不驯的苏格兰高地人 on the unruly native Scottish Highlanders. 218 00:13:00,920 --> 00:13:03,840 这恰好符合英国政府 This fitted in quite neatly with the plans of the British 219 00:13:03,840 --> 00:13:07,920 镇压高地蛮族 Government to suppress the barbarous population of the Highlands 220 00:13:07,920 --> 00:13:12,320 降低北不列颠叛乱风险的计划 and to reduce the risk of further rebellion in North Britain. 221 00:13:13,480 --> 00:13:16,760 河流所经之处必有财富与丰饶 Where the river flows, there is wealth and abundance, 222 00:13:16,760 --> 00:13:20,960 这是好人詹姆斯爵士选址斯佩河畔时 or so The Good Sir James Grant fervently hoped when he sighted 223 00:13:20,960 --> 00:13:23,960 的热切期盼 his new town on the banks of the Spey. 224 00:13:23,960 --> 00:13:27,680 确实——斯佩河中蕴藏着 And it's true - there is treasure to be found in the waters 225 00:13:27,680 --> 00:13:28,760 珍宝 of the Spey. 226 00:13:28,760 --> 00:13:33,000 但需要极仔细才能发现 But you have to look very hard to find it. 227 00:13:33,000 --> 00:13:35,360 不是黄金 而是珍珠 Not gold, but pearls. 228 00:13:35,360 --> 00:13:40,200 淡水珍珠贻贝曾常见于英国河流 Freshwater pearl mussels were once common in many British rivers, 229 00:13:40,200 --> 00:13:44,600 有历史学家认为罗马入侵不列颠 and some historians argue that the Roman invasion of Britain 230 00:13:44,600 --> 00:13:49,280 实因凯撒大帝欲控制 was actually triggered by Julius Caesar, who wanted to control 231 00:13:49,280 --> 00:13:51,480 利润丰厚的珍珠贸易 the lucrative trade in pearls. 232 00:13:56,720 --> 00:14:01,080 为深入了解这种濒危的受保护软体动物 To learn more about this elusive and now legally protected mollusc, 233 00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:06,160 我在河边会见环保专家彼得·科斯格罗夫 I've come down to the river to meet conservationist Peter Cosgrove. 234 00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:09,160 2021年的当下 At the moment in 2021, 235 00:14:09,160 --> 00:14:13,160 这是英国现存规模最大的 this is the largest population of freshwater pearl mussels left 236 00:14:13,160 --> 00:14:14,520 淡水珍珠贻贝种群 in the whole of the UK. 237 00:14:14,520 --> 00:14:16,040 天啊 Good heavens. 238 00:14:16,040 --> 00:14:19,800 为何只有这条河保有 And how come there's only one river that really has that level 239 00:14:19,800 --> 00:14:21,160 如此规模的种群？ of population? 240 00:14:21,160 --> 00:14:23,560 事实上 Well, literally, 241 00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:27,880 自罗马时代起 人类对淡水珍珠贻贝的关注 since Roman times, the interest in freshwater pearl mussels has not 242 00:14:27,880 --> 00:14:29,960 从来不在其生态价值 been in their ecology and their importance 243 00:14:29,960 --> 00:14:31,280 及对河流生态的重要性 in the ecology of rivers. 244 00:14:31,280 --> 00:14:34,080 而在于体内珍珠的价值 It's been in the value of the pearls that they held, 245 00:14:34,080 --> 00:14:37,720 两千多年来它们不断遭受 and so for over 2,000 years, they have been constantly 246 00:14:37,720 --> 00:14:41,480 毫无节制的掠夺 and absolutely exploited without any thought or care 247 00:14:41,480 --> 00:14:43,480 无人考虑种群可持续性 for the sustainability of the stocks. 248 00:14:43,480 --> 00:14:47,280 英国曾有数百条河流栖息着 And so there are hundreds of rivers across the UK that used 249 00:14:47,280 --> 00:14:50,720 珍珠贻贝 如今整个英国境内 to have pearl mussels in them, and they have just decreased 250 00:14:50,720 --> 00:14:52,960 种群数量锐减 across the whole of the UK. 251 00:14:52,960 --> 00:14:56,560 是被猎杀至灭绝吗？ 绝大多数情况确实如此 They were just hunted to extinction? Hunted to extinction in most situations. 252 00:14:56,560 --> 00:14:58,160 在工作过程中 Over the course of his work, 253 00:14:58,160 --> 00:15:02,360 彼得获赠了一些淡水珍珠 Peter has been gifted freshwater pearls, which he's brought with him 254 00:15:02,360 --> 00:15:05,480 用以说明其珍贵价值 to illustrate why they've been so coveted. 255 00:15:05,480 --> 00:15:07,320 太神奇了 你看 That's amazing. Look. 256 00:15:07,320 --> 00:15:09,080 颜色完全不同 There's completely different colours. 257 00:15:09,080 --> 00:15:11,080 有蓝色的 You've got blue ones. 258 00:15:11,080 --> 00:15:13,280 有些是珍珠白 Some are pearly white. 259 00:15:13,280 --> 00:15:17,080 能看到各种色泽与形状 You can see the colours and the shapes. 260 00:15:17,080 --> 00:15:20,360 有些是经典圆珠 这颗真美 Some of them are your classic round pearl. That's a real beauty. 261 00:15:20,360 --> 00:15:21,440 这颗真是极品 That's a real beauty. 262 00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:24,760 但还有些是黑色或棕色的 But other ones are black or brown. 263 00:15:24,760 --> 00:15:27,040 这些珍珠基本都镶嵌在 These are basically the pearls that are in the Scottish 264 00:15:27,040 --> 00:15:29,160 苏格兰和英国王冠上 and the British crown jewels. 265 00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:33,320 [旁白]难以想象这个物种因人类 VOICEOVER: It's hard to comprehend that this species has been decimated 266 00:15:33,320 --> 00:15:35,400 猎取珍珠而濒临灭绝 by the hunt for their pearls. 267 00:15:35,400 --> 00:15:38,760 因此保护工作至关重要 And so their conservation is crucial. 268 00:15:38,760 --> 00:15:42,000 这极其重要 就像我们希望 It's critically important, because I like to think of the fact 269 00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:44,880 尼泊尔和印度保护老虎 that we hope that the Nepalese and the Indians look after tigers 270 00:15:44,880 --> 00:15:48,640 肯尼亚保护犀牛大象 而英国 and the Kenyans look after rhinos and elephants, and we have so few 271 00:15:48,640 --> 00:15:50,880 具有全球重要性的物种本就不多 species in this country that are of global importance. 272 00:15:50,880 --> 00:15:54,200 但珍珠贻贝就是其中之一 既然在我们这代 But this is one. That's one of them. And it's on our watch, which is why 273 00:15:54,200 --> 00:15:55,840 就必须采取行动 we have to do something about it. 274 00:15:58,960 --> 00:16:03,720 彼得的保护工作包括收集贻贝DNA Peter's conservation work includes gathering pearl mussel DNA. 275 00:16:03,720 --> 00:16:06,960 这是整条河流域 It's part of a project to re-establish the population 276 00:16:06,960 --> 00:16:08,800 种群重建计划的一部分 throughout the river. 277 00:16:08,800 --> 00:16:13,160 我们使用玻璃底桶观察水下 Glass bottom buckets are used to see beneath the surface as we go 278 00:16:13,160 --> 00:16:14,960 搜寻贻贝踪迹 in search of the mussels. 279 00:16:16,080 --> 00:16:17,720 这里有一只 快看 We've got one here, look. 280 00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:22,160 你用木棍试着...对...把它夹起来 So, you're using your stick to see if you can... Yeah. ..pluck him up. 281 00:16:22,160 --> 00:16:26,280 像用筷子那样 没错 就是这样 Like...using chopsticks. Yeah. Like that. 282 00:16:28,640 --> 00:16:29,800 看 成功了 So, there we are. 283 00:16:31,040 --> 00:16:33,320 来自斯佩河的淡水珍珠贻贝 Freshwater pearl mussel from the Spey. 284 00:16:33,320 --> 00:16:35,600 能拿起来吗 可以 Yes. Can I pick it up? Yes. 285 00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:40,280 这就是了 其貌不扬的小家伙 So there he is, a rather unprepossessing fellow. 286 00:16:41,440 --> 00:16:42,960 你觉得它多大年纪？ And he's what, how old do you think? 287 00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:45,880 大概50到60岁 Around about, I would say about 50, possibly 60 years old, 288 00:16:45,880 --> 00:16:48,040 至少50岁 五六十岁啊 but certainly 50. 50, 60. Right. 289 00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:51,440 它们能长到比这大一倍 They get much bigger than that, at least twice that size. 290 00:16:51,440 --> 00:16:54,760 所以这是60后？ 是的 So, do you think that's a child of the '60s? Yes. 291 00:16:54,760 --> 00:16:56,880 这附近可不止它一个 Not the only one around here. 292 00:17:00,480 --> 00:17:04,880 祝愿彼得成功重建苏格兰河流中 Wishing Peter every success in repopulating Scotland's rivers 293 00:17:04,880 --> 00:17:07,720 珍稀淡水珍珠贻贝的种群 with amazing freshwater pearl mussels, 294 00:17:07,720 --> 00:17:09,960 我继续沿河前行 I continue following the river. 295 00:17:12,160 --> 00:17:17,600 鲜为人知的是 英国英雄飞行员 Now, it's a little known fact that Captain WE Johns, the author 296 00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:21,880 "比格斯"系列的作者W·E·约翰斯 and creator of the all-British hero and flying ace Biggles, 297 00:17:21,880 --> 00:17:26,760 曾在斯佩河飞钓寻找慰藉与灵感 once sought solace and inspiration fly fishing on the River Spey. 298 00:17:28,880 --> 00:17:34,600 《比格斯飞往北方》《比格斯飞往南方》的作者 The author of Biggles Flies North and Biggles Flies South rented 299 00:17:34,600 --> 00:17:39,080 1947年起与情人多丽丝在河畔 riverside Pitchroy Lodge with his mistress Doris for six 300 00:17:39,080 --> 00:17:41,440 租住皮奇罗伊小屋六年 years from 1947. 301 00:17:43,120 --> 00:17:45,800 为何选择斯佩塞？ But why choose Speyside? 302 00:17:45,800 --> 00:17:50,080 约翰斯婚姻破裂 妻子拒绝离婚 Johns' marriage had collapsed and his wife refused to divorce him, 303 00:17:50,080 --> 00:17:54,480 为躲避婚外情引发的流言蜚语 so to escape damaging gossip about his extramarital affair, 304 00:17:54,480 --> 00:18:00,000 他携挚爱多丽丝·利避居斯佩塞 he escaped to Speyside with the love of his life, Doris Leigh. 305 00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:04,200 皮奇罗伊小屋成为爱巢 斯佩河则是 Pitchroy Lodge became their love nest, and the river a place 306 00:18:04,200 --> 00:18:07,240 约翰斯垂钓放松 为笔下英雄 where Johns could relax with his rod and dream 307 00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:10,120 构思新冒险的灵感源泉 up new adventures for his hero, Biggles. 308 00:18:11,480 --> 00:18:14,880 这条河确实给了他无尽灵感 And what an inspiration the river proved to be. 309 00:18:22,720 --> 00:18:27,400 告别飞行英雄的隐秘情史 Moving on from tales of the great flying ace and his secret love life, 310 00:18:27,400 --> 00:18:31,920 我顺流而下前往诺肯多 I head downstream to Knockando, which is home to one of Speyside's 311 00:18:31,920 --> 00:18:34,320 这里坐落着斯佩塞众多威士忌酒厂之一 many whisky distilleries. 312 00:18:34,320 --> 00:18:37,480 我很好奇这片区域如何 I'm intrigued to find out why the area has achieved such 313 00:18:37,480 --> 00:18:41,440 成就盛名 酒厂经理桑迪·麦金泰尔 prominence, and distillery manager Sandy McIntyre 314 00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:44,040 将为我解惑 is going to enlighten me. 315 00:18:44,040 --> 00:18:46,840 蒸馏工艺几乎发源于斯佩塞 Speyside is more or less where distilling started. 316 00:18:46,840 --> 00:18:49,200 斯佩河周边山区曾遍布 It's where the illicit stills were in the hills 317 00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:51,080 非法蒸馏作坊 造就了 round about the River Spey, synonymous 318 00:18:51,080 --> 00:18:53,480 我们如今饮用的柔和清淡酒体 with this very soft, light spirit that we get. 319 00:18:53,480 --> 00:18:55,560 产业规模逐年扩大 And it's just continued to expand over the years. 320 00:18:55,560 --> 00:18:58,720 斯佩塞的蒸馏历史 So, it's been in the area for maybe about 150 to 200 years, distilling 321 00:18:58,720 --> 00:18:59,840 约有150到200年 here in Speyside. 322 00:18:59,840 --> 00:19:02,320 对整个苏格兰威士忌至关重要 So, very important area to the whole of Scotch whisky. 323 00:19:02,320 --> 00:19:05,080 在我们所处位置方圆15英里内 Within a, what, 15-mile radius of where we are, 324 00:19:05,080 --> 00:19:07,880 聚集着众多世界知名威士忌品牌 we've got all this world-famous whisky names. 325 00:19:07,880 --> 00:19:09,000 确实如此 Yeah, very much so. 326 00:19:09,000 --> 00:19:12,160 麦卡伦 卡杜 格兰利威 We've got Macallan, we've got Cardhu, we've got Glenlivet. 327 00:19:12,160 --> 00:19:14,480 这些实力雄厚的大酒厂 You know, these real big, big, powerful houses 328 00:19:14,480 --> 00:19:17,240 酿造着顶级苏格兰威士忌 that are producing great scotch. 329 00:19:17,240 --> 00:19:21,400 [旁白]盖尔语中威士忌"生命之水" VOICEOVER: The Gaelic for whisky is uisge beatha, which translates 330 00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:23,360 的称谓让我相信 as the water of life. 331 00:19:23,360 --> 00:19:26,320 这条奔腾的大河与 This leads me to believe that there must be a connection 332 00:19:26,320 --> 00:19:30,800 著名威士忌之间必有联系 between the mighty river I'm following and the famous dram. 333 00:19:30,800 --> 00:19:34,840 确实如此 我们酿酒用水取自 Well, there is. The water that we use for making our whisky is drawn 334 00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:36,040 天然泉水 from a natural spring. 335 00:19:36,040 --> 00:19:39,160 与25年前酒厂使用的 It's the same natural spring that was used 25 years ago, 336 00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:40,680 是同一处泉眼 underneath the distillery. 337 00:19:40,680 --> 00:19:42,400 泉水最终汇入斯佩河 That flows into the River Spey. 338 00:19:42,400 --> 00:19:44,920 我们从山间集水 这些水原本 We're gathering water from the hills that ultimately 339 00:19:44,920 --> 00:19:47,760 要流入斯佩河 我们只是截取少许 is making its way to the Spey, and all we're doing is stealing a wee 340 00:19:47,760 --> 00:19:51,160 酿成让全球而非仅当地人 bit of it and using it to make it something that everybody can enjoy 341 00:19:51,160 --> 00:19:53,240 都能享用的佳酿 globally, rather than just the people locally. 342 00:19:53,240 --> 00:19:56,200 可以说斯佩河慷慨允许我们 So in a sense, the Spey is allowing you to take a little bit 343 00:19:56,200 --> 00:19:58,400 分享它的生命之源 of its source for us to enjoy. 344 00:20:00,840 --> 00:20:02,760 聊了这么多威士忌 After all this talk of whisky, 345 00:20:02,760 --> 00:20:05,680 临行前岂能不品一杯 it feels only right to have one for the road, 346 00:20:05,680 --> 00:20:06,840 或者说"临河前" or should I say river. 347 00:20:06,840 --> 00:20:09,600 我们先观色闻香 闻香？ Let's have a wee look and a wee nose. A nose? 348 00:20:09,600 --> 00:20:11,960 对 闻香 你能闻到圣诞蛋糕 Yeah, have a wee nose. You'll get Christmas cake there, 349 00:20:11,960 --> 00:20:14,440 葡萄干 蜜枣 you'll get some sultanas, some dates, 350 00:20:14,440 --> 00:20:16,720 或许还有黑巧克力 perhaps even some dark chocolate. 351 00:20:16,720 --> 00:20:19,200 肯定有杏仁糖 确实 There's definitely marzipan in there. Definitely. 352 00:20:19,200 --> 00:20:20,240 干杯 干杯 Slainte. Slainte. 353 00:20:22,720 --> 00:20:25,000 深感荣幸 真的 I feel privileged. I really do. 354 00:20:27,360 --> 00:20:29,440 在源头附近品尝威士忌！ Drinking whisky so close to the source! 355 00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:31,840 是啊 斯佩河畔的斯佩塞 Oh, yes. Beside the Spey in Speyside. 356 00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:34,720 阳光也来助兴 干杯 And the sun shining as well. Cheers. 357 00:20:36,000 --> 00:20:40,040 与威士忌共度的精神之旅很短暂 My spiritual moment with a glass of whisky is a short one, 358 00:20:40,040 --> 00:20:43,520 该重返河畔了 这次不步行 and it's back to the river, but not on foot. 359 00:20:43,520 --> 00:20:47,560 我要顺流而下 This time I'm going to let the current take the stream 360 00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:53,920 专业向导戴夫·克雷格教我划桨技巧 and expert river guide Dave Craig is showing me how to dip my paddle. 361 00:20:53,920 --> 00:20:56,800 自2000年起我定期在此漂流 Since 2000, I've been doing this on a regular basis. 362 00:20:56,800 --> 00:20:58,960 至今已完成约...大概 I've probably done about, I've probably done about 363 00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:03,280 220次漂流 220 descents, now, I think. 364 00:21:03,280 --> 00:21:07,320 你有特别钟爱的河段吗？ Have you got a favourite part of the Spey yourself? 365 00:21:07,320 --> 00:21:09,600 这问题很难回答 Well, that's a hard question. 366 00:21:09,600 --> 00:21:12,240 整条河都美不胜收 I mean, it is so beautiful. 367 00:21:12,240 --> 00:21:15,200 四季皆景 I mean, it's beautiful any season as well. 368 00:21:15,200 --> 00:21:17,880 我以前不太接十月的行程 And I used to shy away from doing too many October trips, 369 00:21:17,880 --> 00:21:21,400 但秋高气爽时也别有韵味 but October can be a lovely time as well, with the clarity of the air. 370 00:21:21,400 --> 00:21:26,000 若非要选 我认为城堡庄园 But if you were to push me to say a particular area, then I do have a... 371 00:21:26,000 --> 00:21:28,520 那段特别美 the castle estate is very beautiful. 372 00:21:30,240 --> 00:21:34,600 苏格兰主要河流大多流经大城市 Most of Scotland's major rivers flow through large conurbations. 373 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:37,120 泰河流经珀斯和邓迪 The Tay goes through Perth and Dundee, 374 00:21:37,120 --> 00:21:42,160 迪河终于阿伯丁 克莱德河将格拉斯哥一分为二 the Dee ends up in Aberdeen and the Clyde splits Glasgow in two, 375 00:21:42,160 --> 00:21:45,680 但磅礴的斯佩河是个例外 but the mighty Spey is an exception to this rule. 376 00:21:46,640 --> 00:21:50,120 斯佩河作为主要水道 The Spey, you've got this major water artery, which ends up 377 00:21:50,120 --> 00:21:52,480 最终抵达的却是偏远之地 with this very remote location. 378 00:21:52,480 --> 00:21:55,400 它的独特之处不胜枚举 So the Spey is unique in so many ways. 379 00:21:55,400 --> 00:21:58,560 风光秀丽 野生动植物丰富 It's beautiful, it's got fantastic wildlife. 380 00:21:58,560 --> 00:22:01,840 两岸坐落着50家运营中的蒸馏厂 It's got 50 working distilleries along its banks. 381 00:22:01,840 --> 00:22:04,480 这是斯佩河另一独特之处 I mean, that's the other thing that's unique about the Spey, 382 00:22:04,480 --> 00:22:07,880 但它的入海口却十分偏远 but then it confluences a very remote location. 383 00:22:09,960 --> 00:22:13,960 沿着昔日漂木者的路线 Following the route of the floaters of yesteryear, we make our way 384 00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:16,200 我们向河口进发 towards the mouth of the river. 385 00:22:16,200 --> 00:22:20,480 斯佩河缓缓渗过泥滩 The Spey seeps slowly and un dramatically through mud banks 386 00:22:20,480 --> 00:22:23,840 与沼泽水道 平静注入马里湾 and marshy channels to join the Moray Firth. 387 00:22:23,840 --> 00:22:25,760 临近旅程终点 Nearing my journey's end, 388 00:22:25,760 --> 00:22:29,640 我在左岸的斯佩河畔金斯顿村 I make a quick stop on the left bank of the river at the village 389 00:22:29,640 --> 00:22:31,640 短暂停留 of Kingston on Spey. 390 00:22:31,640 --> 00:22:35,280 这个村庄因18世纪末至 The village thrived on the shipbuilding industry here 391 00:22:35,280 --> 00:22:38,920 上世纪初的造船业而繁荣 from the late 1700s until the turn of the last century. 392 00:22:40,040 --> 00:22:43,760 如今已很难想象当年七家船厂 It's very hard to imagine today all the noise and activity 393 00:22:43,760 --> 00:22:47,560 沿斯佩河一字排开的喧闹景象 of the seven boat yards at once lining the Spey here, 394 00:22:47,560 --> 00:22:51,560 生产着体型相当可观的船只 producing ships of quite considerable size, 395 00:22:51,560 --> 00:22:56,720 原料当然来自凯恩戈姆山麓的松木 made, of course, of pine logged on the slopes of the Cairngorms. 396 00:22:58,080 --> 00:23:01,720 当年造就数百艘船只的 There's not much evidence of all the labour and enterprise 397 00:23:01,720 --> 00:23:04,400 劳动与事业已难觅踪迹 that produced hundreds of ships here. 398 00:23:06,560 --> 00:23:09,520 有些船只重逾800吨 Some weighing over 800 tonnes 399 00:23:09,520 --> 00:23:11,920 桅杆高达60英尺 with masts 60 feet tall. 400 00:23:13,800 --> 00:23:18,200 这些船只后来进行过环球航行 And to think some of these vessels would go on to make grand voyages 401 00:23:18,200 --> 00:23:23,200 最远抵达过澳大利亚和开普敦 across the globe, even travelling as far as Australia and Cape Town. 402 00:23:28,040 --> 00:23:31,280 斯佩河的造船业并非时代变迁中 Shipbuilding on the Spey wasn't the only casualty 403 00:23:31,280 --> 00:23:33,320 唯一的牺牲品 of changing times. 404 00:23:33,320 --> 00:23:39,480 斯佩河是苏格兰著名鲑鱼河中的瑰宝 The Spey is a jewel amongst some of Scotland's most famous salmon rivers, with thousands of salmon 405 00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:43,000 每年有数千条鲑鱼洄游至此 making the journey up the river every year. 406 00:23:43,000 --> 00:23:48,760 它们从斯佩湾（旧称塔格尼特）入河 They enter here in Spey Bay, once known as Tugnet, a name that also 407 00:23:48,760 --> 00:23:52,280 这个名称也见证了这片水域 describes the once bountiful industry that took place 408 00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,360 曾经的繁荣产业 in these waters. 409 00:23:54,360 --> 00:23:58,880 过去渔民们就在这处河岸 It was down on the shore here that fishermen in the past would pull 410 00:23:58,880 --> 00:24:02,200 拖拽渔网收获鲑鱼 or tug on their nets to land their catch. 411 00:24:02,200 --> 00:24:06,480 "塔格尼特"因此得名 那边建筑群 Hence, the name Tugnet, and the building complex over there 412 00:24:06,480 --> 00:24:10,880 是昔日利润丰厚的鲑鱼海鳟渔场遗迹 is the relic of a once lucrative salmon and sea trout fishery. 413 00:24:14,760 --> 00:24:16,800 这是塔格尼特冰屋 This is the Tugnet Ice House. 414 00:24:16,800 --> 00:24:21,800 由里士满-戈登公爵约两百年前建造 It was built by the Duke of Richmond and Gordon almost 200 years ago 415 00:24:21,800 --> 00:24:26,960 用于储存冬季冰块保持鲑鱼新鲜出口 to store winter ice so that salmon could be kept fresh for export. 416 00:24:26,960 --> 00:24:30,160 冬季时将河水引入浅池 The ice was made in winter by draining off river water 417 00:24:30,160 --> 00:24:32,280 结冰制成 into shallow ponds. 418 00:24:32,280 --> 00:24:37,160 冰块切割后储存在冰屋内 When the ice froze, it was cut up and stored in the ice house. 419 00:24:37,160 --> 00:24:41,680 19世纪的冬季想必比如今寒冷得多 Now, I'm guessing that winters back in the 19th century were much colder 420 00:24:41,680 --> 00:24:46,960 才能稳定产出填满整个冰屋 than they are now, and dependably so to fill a room this size 421 00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:49,280 从地板到天花板的冰块 from floor to ceiling with ice. 422 00:24:51,040 --> 00:24:54,680 为了解这段近乎被遗忘的历史 To tell me about this almost forgotten way of life, 423 00:24:54,680 --> 00:24:57,800 我拜访了当地最后一位鲑鱼渔民 I'm meeting up with a local man, Jim Gordon, 424 00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:00,080 吉姆·戈登 the last of the salmon fishers. 425 00:25:00,080 --> 00:25:04,160 我1965年2月11日在此开始工作 I started here in 1965, the 11th of February 1965, 426 00:25:04,160 --> 00:25:08,720 渔季持续到8月26日 when the fishing started then, until August 26th. 427 00:25:08,720 --> 00:25:10,040 当时负责什么工作？ And what was your job then? 428 00:25:10,040 --> 00:25:13,480 新人要从"刺网工"做起 Well, I come here and you went to stingman. 429 00:25:13,480 --> 00:25:17,800 就是打杂的学徒工 As a new start, you were a stingman, you were the boy. 430 00:25:17,800 --> 00:25:22,040 每个鲑鱼渔站配备两艘渔船 Each salmon station was organised into two cobles. 431 00:25:22,040 --> 00:25:27,200 每船三人：一名撒网手和两名桨手 Each boat had three men, a man laying the net and two oarsmen. 432 00:25:27,200 --> 00:25:31,040 船长称为"识鱼人" The skipper of the cobble was known as the kenner. 433 00:25:31,040 --> 00:25:34,400 最资浅的"刺网工"负责 The most junior member, the stingman, was responsible 434 00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:38,360 船只靠岸时的停泊安全 for safely grounding and securing the boat when it returned 435 00:25:38,360 --> 00:25:42,080 吉姆将用老录像带我了解日常工作 to the river bank. To get a sense of what a day's work was like, 436 00:25:42,080 --> 00:25:45,200 Jim's going to talk me through an old home video. 437 00:25:45,200 --> 00:25:47,040 这是他们在拖船上岸 That's them pulling up the boat. 438 00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:51,240 穿过的我侄子罗斯 现在镜头里 That's my nephew Ross on there and that's my son going past there 439 00:25:51,240 --> 00:25:55,160 是我儿子 这是他们出发撒网 just now, and this is them setting off and throwing off the leads 440 00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:56,440 先沉铅坠再放浮标 and then the corks. 441 00:25:56,440 --> 00:25:58,560 如何判断撒网时机？ How would they know when to set the net? 442 00:25:58,560 --> 00:26:01,960 没有固定说法 通常环形撒网 Well, it's nae said, it's just a sweep round, 443 00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:04,000 约五分钟 about five minutes. 444 00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:06,800 这是他们在收网 So that's them pulling them in. 445 00:26:06,800 --> 00:26:10,200 渔民称每次撒网为"一网" A shot is what fishermen call the cast 446 00:26:10,200 --> 00:26:11,240 of the net. 447 00:26:12,520 --> 00:26:15,480 目标是让渔网尽可能 The goal of a shot was to cast the net around 448 00:26:15,480 --> 00:26:18,200 覆盖更大水域 as large a part of the pool as possible. 449 00:26:19,960 --> 00:26:23,360 船员每班会撒多网 The crew would make many shots throughout their shift, 450 00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:25,840 收获各有不同 some being more bountiful than others. 451 00:26:27,280 --> 00:26:28,760 这网收获颇丰 Quite a haul there. 452 00:26:28,760 --> 00:26:32,680 识鱼人会喊"网沸了" The kenner then would shout, "Oh, she's boiling," and it was boiling 453 00:26:32,680 --> 00:26:35,200 形容鱼群如沸水般翻腾 like a kettle with a lot of fish in it, obviously. 454 00:26:35,200 --> 00:26:36,600 这网很不错... But there's quite a good shot... 455 00:26:36,600 --> 00:26:39,320 看到这么多鲑鱼真激动 这就是奖金啊 An exciting sight to see that many salmon. That's your bonus. 456 00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:45,040 许多人在河口学成手艺后 Many men would learn their trade here at the mouth of the river 457 00:26:45,040 --> 00:26:49,760 会晋升为上游庄园的渔猎向导 before graduating to become gillies on estates further upstream, 458 00:26:49,760 --> 00:26:53,000 有些甚至服务过皇室成员 some even rubbing shoulders with royalty. 459 00:26:53,000 --> 00:26:56,680 查尔斯王子常来 他在戈登斯顿读书时 Prince Charles came quite often, and he stayed at the castle 460 00:26:56,680 --> 00:27:01,840 住城堡期间经常垂钓 when he was at Gordonstoun School, and he fished quite often 461 00:27:01,840 --> 00:27:06,120 多数由向导陪同 但他尤其喜欢 with most of the gillies, but he fished quite often with my father 462 00:27:06,120 --> 00:27:08,080 和我父亲搭档 and the bit that he was on. 463 00:27:08,080 --> 00:27:10,360 这是你父亲？ 对 So that's your father? Yeah. 464 00:27:10,360 --> 00:27:12,480 查尔斯当时钓了三条... That's him with three... Charles had three fish. 465 00:27:12,480 --> 00:27:16,040 约莫15岁 真难得 是啊 I think he would have been about 15 at that time. It's amazing. Aye. 466 00:27:16,040 --> 00:27:17,560 查尔斯看起来颇为自得 And Charles looks quite pleased with himself, does he not? 467 00:27:17,560 --> 00:27:20,080 没错 是一条鲑鱼加两条幼鱼？ Aye, right, he was. Is that a salmon and two grills? 468 00:27:20,080 --> 00:27:24,640 对 一鲑两幼 Aye. Yeah, a salmon and two grills. 469 00:27:24,640 --> 00:27:27,720 这就是我的故事 So that's my story. 470 00:27:29,520 --> 00:27:30,920 471 00:27:33,200 --> 00:27:36,160 曾支撑斯佩河口社区的 The traditional industries that sustained the communities 472 00:27:36,160 --> 00:27:39,480 传统产业已然消失 at the mouth of the Spey have disappeared. 473 00:27:39,480 --> 00:27:42,960 船厂不复存在 鲑鱼数量 The shipyards have gone and the salmon no longer 474 00:27:42,960 --> 00:27:44,640 也不复当年 come in great numbers. 475 00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:48,960 如今塔格尼特成为记录这些 Today, Tugnet is a museum to these industries, which once 476 00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:51,800 依赖河流馈赠的产业博物馆 depended on the bounty of the river. 477 00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:55,680 冰屋现在也是海豚中心所在地 The Ice House is now also home to the Dolphin Centre. 478 00:27:55,680 --> 00:27:59,600 运气好的话 或许能在海滩 And if you're lucky, you might just catch a glimpse 479 00:27:59,600 --> 00:28:02,720 瞥见瓶鼻海豚 of a bottlenose dolphin from the beach. 480 00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:06,160 海豚全年都会造访斯佩湾 Dolphins come in to Spey Bay all year round, 481 00:28:06,160 --> 00:28:09,280 春季时还可能看到它们 and in the springtime you might catch sight of them 482 00:28:09,280 --> 00:28:12,440 在河口追逐洄游产卵的 chasing salmon at the mouth of the river as they make 483 00:28:12,440 --> 00:28:15,320 鲑鱼群 their way upstream to their spawning grounds. 484 00:28:15,320 --> 00:28:18,600 这无疑是这条丰饶河流 Now that's a hopeful sign, surely for the future health 485 00:28:18,600 --> 00:28:22,560 未来健康的希望征兆 of this bountiful river and the perfect place for me 486 00:28:22,560 --> 00:28:25,920 也是我斯佩河壮游的完美终点 to end my grand tour of the River Spey. 487 00:28:28,400 --> 00:28:31,480 下次壮游我将沿"发明之河" On my next grand tour, I'll be travelling down 488 00:28:31,480 --> 00:28:35,040 尼斯河顺流而下 the River Nith, river of invention.