1  
00:00:02,960 --> 00:00:07,560  
斯佩河，苏格兰标志性水道之一，  
The River Spey, one of the iconic water courses of Scotland,  

2  
00:00:07,560 --> 00:00:09,520  
拥有千姿百态，  
has many faces,  

3  
00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:14,480  
每一面都映照着瞬息万变的景致。  
each one reflecting the character of the ever-changing scene.  

4  
00:00:14,480 --> 00:00:17,400  
斯佩河是苏格兰第三长河流，  
The Spey is Scotland's third longest river  

5  
00:00:17,400 --> 00:00:20,720  
也是最负盛名的河流之一，以壮丽的野生动植物、  
and one of its most famous, being known the world over  

6  
00:00:20,720 --> 00:00:24,880  
鲑鱼群而闻名于世，当然还有  
for its magnificent wildlife, its salmon and, of course,  

7  
00:00:24,880 --> 00:00:30,120  
威士忌。我将从源头一路追随它直至入海口。  
its whisky and I'm following it all the way from its source to the sea.  

8  
00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:36,240  
苏格兰的河流塑造了这个国家，  
Scotland's rivers have shaped the nation  

9  
00:00:36,240 --> 00:00:39,640  
是最珍贵的自然瑰宝。  
and are among the country's greatest treasures.  

10  
00:00:42,320 --> 00:00:47,280  
自远古时代起，河流就是天然的高速通道。  
Since the earliest times, rivers have been used as natural highways.  

11  
00:00:47,280 --> 00:00:51,080  
河岸旁诞生了最早的城镇，  
Along their banks, the first towns and cities were built  

12  
00:00:51,080 --> 00:00:54,480  
作为自然资源，河流为我们提供了  
and as a natural resource, rivers have provided us  

13  
00:00:54,480 --> 00:00:57,000  
丰富的食物与能源。  
with an abundance of food and power.  

14  
00:00:58,800 --> 00:01:01,880  
本系列中，我将遇见一群  
In this series, I'll meet a cast of characters  

15  
00:01:01,880 --> 00:01:04,680  
生活在伟大水道沿岸的人物，  
who live along the banks of our great waterways  

16  
00:01:04,680 --> 00:01:08,840  
并在穿越苏格兰的旅程中揭开往昔  
and uncover intriguing tales from the past as I travel  

17  
00:01:08,840 --> 00:01:15,320  
神秘传说，展开一场探索生命之源的大巡礼。  
across Scotland on a grand tour to explore the original waters of life.  

18  
00:01:15,320 --> 00:01:18,840  
本期节目，我将沿斯佩河而下，  
In this programme, I'm setting off down the River Spey  

19  
00:01:18,840 --> 00:01:23,680  
开启发现之旅，探访这个时而重塑的世界。  
on a grand tour to discover a sometimes reimagined world.  

20  
00:01:37,720 --> 00:01:43,640  
斯佩河全长172公里，是苏格兰第三长河，  
The Spey is the third longest river in Scotland and at 172km,  

21  
00:01:43,640 --> 00:01:48,120  
需要分两段旅程才能完成从源头到大海的全程。  
needs two grand tours to complete the journey to the sea.  

22  
00:01:48,120 --> 00:01:50,480  
我的路线始于莫纳利亚斯山脉边缘  
My route begins at a remote location  

23  
00:01:50,480 --> 00:01:52,600  
一处偏远之地，  
on the edge of the Monadhliath Mountains  

24  
00:01:52,600 --> 00:01:56,400  
顺流穿越巴德诺赫荒野，  
and follows the river through the wildlands of Badenoch  

25  
00:01:56,400 --> 00:02:00,160  
抵达一条隐秘支流——那里曾绽放隐秘爱情，  
to a hidden tributary where a secret love once blossomed  

26  
00:02:00,160 --> 00:02:03,920  
最后乘蒸汽列车返回河畔铁路。  
and then returns by steam to a riverside railway.  

27  
00:02:05,600 --> 00:02:10,080  
这片荒凉沼泽人迹罕至，目之所及  
This desolate moorland is empty of people and there's not a house  

28  
00:02:10,080 --> 00:02:13,840  
数英里内不见一间屋舍，  
to be seen literally for miles and miles,  

29  
00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:15,200  
但正是在这海拔  
yet it's up here,  

30  
00:02:15,200 --> 00:02:19,920  
300多米的高处，斯佩河诞生了。  
at over 1,000 feet, that the River Spey is born.  

31  
00:02:19,920 --> 00:02:24,280  
我身后这片不起眼的水域就是斯佩湖，  
And that unassuming body of water behind me is Loch Spey,  

32  
00:02:24,280 --> 00:02:27,120  
我河流之旅的起点。  
the start of my river grand tour.  

33  
00:02:30,720 --> 00:02:34,480  
斯佩河的无名源头从典型的高地分水岭  
The unnamed headwaters of the River Spey, which feed the loch,  

34  
00:02:34,480 --> 00:02:38,280  
沼泽地涌出，汇入湖泊，  
rise from boggy ground that's typical of Scotland's watershed  

35  
00:02:38,280 --> 00:02:40,240  
这正是苏格兰高地的特征。  
in this part of the Highlands.  

36  
00:02:41,400 --> 00:02:43,880  
这片苍凉高地看似荒芜，  
These bleak uplands may seem desolate,  

37  
00:02:43,880 --> 00:02:47,480  
却是某些野生动物的理想栖息地。  
but for some wild creatures, they make an ideal habitat.  

38  
00:02:50,760 --> 00:02:55,080  
在我头顶广阔天空中盘旋的，是苏格兰标志——  
Circling in the wide skies above me is a Scottish icon,  

39  
00:02:55,080 --> 00:02:57,240  
金雕。  
the golden eagle.  

40  
00:02:57,240 --> 00:03:01,320  
这里的山脉是这些猛禽的庇护所，  
Here, the mountains are a haven for these great birds of prey  

41  
00:03:01,320 --> 00:03:03,920  
它们在险峻悬崖和岩石凸起处  
where they build eyries on inaccessible cliffs  

42  
00:03:03,920 --> 00:03:05,280  
筑巢安家。  
and outcrops of rock.  

43  
00:03:06,480 --> 00:03:10,280  
但一些新生雏鹰的命运已被人类  
But some of the newly hatched chicks have a destiny mapped out for them  

44  
00:03:10,280 --> 00:03:11,800  
亲手改写。  
by human hands.  

45  
00:03:11,800 --> 00:03:15,080  
南苏格兰金雕项目的里克·泰勒，  
Rick Taylor, of the South of Scotland Golden Eagle project,  

46  
00:03:15,080 --> 00:03:17,920  
正为这些曾遭大规模迫害的鸟类  
is imagining a different future for these birds  

47  
00:03:17,920 --> 00:03:20,080  
规划不同的未来。  
which were once widely persecuted.  

48  
00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:22,600  
里克，我们现在所处的位置  
So, here we are, Rick.  

49  
00:03:22,600 --> 00:03:26,080  
是金雕领地的广阔天空下。据我所知  
Big wide skies in the middle of eagle country and I understand  

50  
00:03:26,080 --> 00:03:29,320  
金雕曾遍布整个苏格兰？  
at one time eagles would have covered the whole of Scotland.  

51  
00:03:29,320 --> 00:03:31,680  
是的，还包括英格兰大部分地区。真的？  
Yes, and most of England. Really?  

52  
00:03:31,680 --> 00:03:33,920  
从英格兰高地一直到西海岸，  
In the uplands of England all the way down the west coast,  

53  
00:03:33,920 --> 00:03:37,320  
后来它们被驱赶到最北端和西部，  
yeah, and they've just been pushed into the far north and west now  

54  
00:03:37,320 --> 00:03:41,000  
现在种群繁盛，并开始重新扩张。  
where they are doing extremely well and starting to expand out again.  

55  
00:03:41,000 --> 00:03:45,000  
由于北部金雕种群相对健康，  
Because the eagle population in the north is relatively healthy,  

56  
00:03:45,000 --> 00:03:48,400  
它们有机会扩大栖息范围，  
there's an opportunity for the birds to expand their range,  

57  
00:03:48,400 --> 00:03:50,720  
但需要人类的帮助。  
but they need help from us.  

58  
00:03:50,720 --> 00:03:53,840  
与贾哈马高地庄园主合作，  
Working with the landowner, Jahama Highland Estates,  

59  
00:03:53,840 --> 00:03:57,360  
南苏格兰金雕项目获许可将雏雕  
the South of Scotland Golden Eagle Project has a licence to move them  

60  
00:03:57,360 --> 00:04:00,360  
南迁至边境地区——目前那里仅存  
south to the borders where there are currently thought  

61  
00:04:00,360 --> 00:04:03,160  
三对繁殖种群。  
to be just three breeding pairs.  

62  
00:04:03,160 --> 00:04:06,040  
这是个迁移项目。首先需要通过  
Well, it's a translocation project, so the first thing we have to do is,  

63  
00:04:06,040 --> 00:04:08,240  
苏格兰猛禽研究小组协助，  
by working with the Scottish raptor study groups,  

64  
00:04:08,240 --> 00:04:09,280  
定位双雏雕的巢穴，  
locate a nest of twins,  

65  
00:04:09,280 --> 00:04:13,960  
由攀岩者采集两只雏雕。  
so two eagles, with which we then have to access via a climber.  

66  
00:04:13,960 --> 00:04:17,280  
这很困难吧？幸好不是我负责！  
That will be difficult. Yeah, thankfully not my job!  

67  
00:04:17,280 --> 00:04:19,480  
攀岩者会采集两只雏雕，  
So, a climber will go down, collect both chicks,  

68  
00:04:19,480 --> 00:04:21,840  
由兽医现场检查。  
they'll be checked by a vet on site.  

69  
00:04:21,840 --> 00:04:24,640  
若健康状况良好，一只南迁，  
If they're both healthy, we'll take one to be translocated to the south  

70  
00:04:24,640 --> 00:04:27,600  
另一只放归巢穴由亲鸟正常抚养。  
and return one to the eyrie for the parents to raise as normal. Right.  

71  
00:04:27,600 --> 00:04:30,760  
亲鸟不会发现少了一只雏鸟吗？  
I mean, will the parents not miss the fact that one of them is gone?  

72  
00:04:30,760 --> 00:04:33,760  
通常年长的雏雕会杀死弱小的同伴，  
Well, often with eagles, the older sibling will kill the younger,  

73  
00:04:33,760 --> 00:04:36,760  
所以...真的吗？是的，很常见。  
weaker one anyway, so it's... Oh, really? Yeah. Often.  

74  
00:04:36,760 --> 00:04:38,320  
所以这是双赢方案，  
So this is a win-win situation, then,  

75  
00:04:38,320 --> 00:04:40,760  
用一条生命换取两只金雕存活。  
because we're getting two eagle lives for the price of one.  

76  
00:04:40,760 --> 00:04:42,680  
理论上是的。  
Potentially, yeah. Potentially so.  

77  
00:04:42,680 --> 00:04:46,480  
我们希望能壮大南部  
We're just hoping that, you know, we can boost the population down  

78  
00:04:46,480 --> 00:04:49,120  
濒临灭绝的种群，  
in the south which is just clinging on by a talon,  

79  
00:04:49,120 --> 00:04:52,000  
让它们重新翱翔在  
if you will, and hopefully we'll be able to return them  

80  
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:53,040  
南方的天空。  
to southern skies.  

81  
00:04:55,440 --> 00:04:58,040  
从莫纳利亚斯山脉高耸的悬崖俯瞰，  
From their vantage point high on the cliffs,  

82  
00:04:58,040 --> 00:05:01,840  
金雕注视着斯佩河流入1940年代  
the eagles of the Monadhliath looked down on the Spey as it flows  

83  
00:05:01,840 --> 00:05:08,360  
水电工程师建造的人工湖。  
into an artificial loch created in the 1940s by hydro engineers.  

84  
00:05:08,360 --> 00:05:13,120  
这项工程以史诗般的规模实施——  
In a feat of engineering conceived on a truly monumental scale,  

85  
00:05:13,120 --> 00:05:16,240  
斯佩河的流向竟为工业发展  
the flow of the River Spey was actually reversed  

86  
00:05:16,240 --> 00:05:17,920  
被人工逆转。  
for the sake of industry.  

87  
00:05:19,640 --> 00:05:22,920  
原本流向东北方马里湾的河水，  
Instead of flowing north-east towards the Moray Firth,  

88  
00:05:22,920 --> 00:05:27,000  
被工程师开凿的运河改道西流，  
a canal was dug by engineers to divert some of the River West  

89  
00:05:27,000 --> 00:05:28,240  
注入拉根湖。  
towards Loch Laggan.  

90  
00:05:29,440 --> 00:05:32,560  
通过高架渠与本尼维斯山隧道，  
Aqueducts and a tunnel through Ben Nevis then carried  

91  
00:05:32,560 --> 00:05:35,760  
湖水从拉根湖输送至威廉堡，  
the water from Loch Laggan to Fort William,  

92  
00:05:35,760 --> 00:05:39,560  
为洛哈伯铝厂发电。  
generating electricity for the Lochaber aluminium smelter.  

93  
00:05:41,480 --> 00:05:44,440  
但并非所有河水都被引流。  
But not all the river water is extracted.  

94  
00:05:44,440 --> 00:05:48,280  
斯佩河仍沿原始河道流淌，  
The Spey continues to flow along its original course,  

95  
00:05:48,280 --> 00:05:52,800  
深入曾属于麦克弗森家族的土地。  
deep into land that was traditionally Macpherson country.  

96  
00:05:52,800 --> 00:05:55,280  
这里的地貌仍保留着  
Here, there are reminders in the landscape  

97  
00:05:55,280 --> 00:05:57,880  
这个昔日显赫氏族的印记。  
of this once dominant clan.  

98  
00:05:57,880 --> 00:06:00,120  
斯佩河畔高耸的石碑  
A tall cairn overlooking the Spey  

99  
00:06:00,120 --> 00:06:03,480  
纪念着族长尤恩·麦克弗森。  
is dedicated to clan chief Ewen Macpherson.  

100  
00:06:04,640 --> 00:06:07,240  
史称"克鲁尼·麦克弗森"的他，  
Known to history as Cluny Macpherson,  

101  
00:06:07,240 --> 00:06:10,840  
曾召集400多名族人  
he raised over 400 members of his own clan  

102  
00:06:10,840 --> 00:06:14,880  
参与1745年詹姆斯党起义。  
to take part in the Jacobite rising of 1745.  

103  
00:06:14,880 --> 00:06:18,040  
起义在卡洛登战役失败后，  
Now, when this was crushed at the battle of Culloden,  

104  
00:06:18,040 --> 00:06:23,080  
克鲁尼开始逃亡，尽管悬赏1000英镑，  
Cluny went into hiding and remained a fugitive for nine years  

105  
00:06:23,080 --> 00:06:27,720  
仍隐匿九年未被捕获。  
despite the fact there was a bounty on his head of £1,000.  

106  
00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:35,320  
克鲁尼还受托保管王子从法国运来  
Famously, Cluny was also entrusted with the Prince's gold  

107  
00:06:35,320 --> 00:06:39,600  
支援起义的黄金。  
which was sent from France to aid the Jacobite campaign.  

108  
00:06:39,600 --> 00:06:42,560  
为深入了解这位传奇逃犯，  
To find out more about this legendary fugitive,  

109  
00:06:42,560 --> 00:06:46,000  
我将在克雷格杜崖下会见  
I'm meeting up with local historian Angus Macpherson  

110  
00:06:46,000 --> 00:06:49,640  
当地历史学家安格斯·麦克弗森。  
beneath the cliff face known as Creag Dubh.  

111  
00:06:49,640 --> 00:06:52,640  
安格斯，尤恩·麦克弗森，即克鲁尼，  
Angus, Ewen Macpherson, Cluny Macpherson,  

112  
00:06:52,640 --> 00:06:57,200  
在詹姆斯党历史中举足轻重，对吗？  
was a very important character in Jacobite history, was he not?  

113  
00:06:57,200 --> 00:07:00,320  
是的，他是极其重要的人物。  
Yes, he was. He was an extremely important man.  

114  
00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:04,520  
他是查理王子麾下的团长。  
He was a regimental commander for Bonnie Prince Charlie.  

115  
00:07:04,520 --> 00:07:07,120  
深得查理王子信任，  
He was trusted by Bonnie Prince Charlie  

116  
00:07:07,120 --> 00:07:09,760  
被赋予分配黄金的重任——  
and he was the person given the responsibility of  

117  
00:07:09,760 --> 00:07:11,320  
这些黄金有时被称为  
dispensing the gold  

118  
00:07:11,320 --> 00:07:13,600  
阿卡格湖黄金。  
which is sometimes called the Loch Arkaig gold.  

119  
00:07:13,600 --> 00:07:17,120  
克鲁尼逃亡了九年。  
Cluny was a fugitive for nine years.  

120  
00:07:17,120 --> 00:07:19,400  
他究竟如何能  
How on earth was he able to evade capture  

121  
00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:21,200  
长期躲避追捕？  
for such a long period of time?  

122  
00:07:21,200 --> 00:07:23,320  
我认为主要得益于  
I think a lot of it was to do with the fact  

123  
00:07:23,320 --> 00:07:26,560  
他拥有忠诚的族人  
that he had a very loyal clan around him  

124  
00:07:26,560 --> 00:07:30,640  
他们保护着他，加上他行事谨慎  
and they were protecting him and he was very cautious  

125  
00:07:30,640 --> 00:07:32,640  
从不在同一地点久留，  
and he never slept anywhere for very long  

126  
00:07:32,640 --> 00:07:34,280  
不断变换藏身处。  
and he was always moving around.  

127  
00:07:36,280 --> 00:07:40,800  
克鲁尼有个难以置信的隐秘藏身处——  
One of Cluny's hidden boltholes is an improbably inaccessible  

128  
00:07:40,800 --> 00:07:46,080  
位于克雷格杜崖高处、几乎不可见的洞穴。  
and almost invisible cave situated on the dizzy heights of Creag Dubh.  

129  
00:07:46,080 --> 00:07:49,440  
抵达那里需要危险的攀爬。  
To get there involves a dangerous scramble.  

130  
00:07:49,440 --> 00:07:51,160  
洞里什么样？  
What's it like inside?

131  
00:07:51,160 --> 00:07:53,560  
非常...简朴。  
It's...spartan.  

132  
00:07:54,560 --> 00:07:56,280  
狭小而局促。  
Small and confined.  

133  
00:07:57,440 --> 00:08:00,680  
安格斯向我透露更多关于詹姆斯党黄金的细节，  
Angus tells me more about the Jacobite gold,  

134  
00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:05,160  
据说可能藏在克雷格杜崖下的湖泊中。  
which he says may have been hidden in the loch below Creag Dubh.  

135  
00:08:05,160 --> 00:08:08,000  
有传言说这里可能是  
That is one of the rumours that it could have been  

136  
00:08:08,000 --> 00:08:10,880  
藏宝地之一。所以他能在高处监视？  
one of its hiding places, yeah. So he could keep an eye on it?  

137  
00:08:10,880 --> 00:08:13,760  
没错，从崖顶巢穴就能监视。  
So he could keep an eye on it from up there, from his eyrie.  

138  
00:08:16,240 --> 00:08:21,640  
逃亡九年后，克鲁尼于1753年应查理王子召唤  
After nine years on the run, Cluny was summoned to France in 1753  

139  
00:08:21,640 --> 00:08:23,440  
前往法国。  
by Bonnie Prince Charlie.  

140  
00:08:24,520 --> 00:08:28,480  
可惜会面并不愉快。  
Unfortunately, the interview was without coffee.  

141  
00:08:28,480 --> 00:08:31,680  
查理王子质问："我的黄金呢？我要拿回来。"  
Bonnie Prince Charlie said, "Where's my gold? I want it back."  

142  
00:08:31,680 --> 00:08:37,160  
不接受"其实已经花光了"这种说辞。  
And didn't accept the cry of, "Actually, it's all spent."  

143  
00:08:37,160 --> 00:08:40,160  
至今仍有寻宝者  
To this day, treasure hunters continue to look  

144  
00:08:40,160 --> 00:08:42,680  
寻找这批神秘的詹姆斯党黄金。  
for the elusive Jacobite gold.  

145  
00:08:42,680 --> 00:08:47,000  
可悲的是，克鲁尼再未回到故土。  
Sadly, Cluny never returned to his ancestral lands.  

146  
00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:49,120  
他在法国穷困潦倒而终，  
He died a pauper in France  

147  
00:08:49,120 --> 00:08:53,640  
葬于敦刻尔克加尔默罗会修道院。  
and was buried in a Carmelite monastery in Dunkirk.  

148  
00:08:53,640 --> 00:08:57,000  
我们近期曾尝试寻找墓地，  
We did try and go and find it quite recently,  

149  
00:08:57,000 --> 00:08:59,800  
但这座二战前后被毁的修道院  
but there's nothing to be seen of the Carmelite monastery  

150  
00:08:59,800 --> 00:09:01,000  
已无迹可寻。  
which was destroyed  

151  
00:09:01,000 --> 00:09:03,720  
either just before or after the Second World War.  

152  
00:09:03,720 --> 00:09:05,960  
所以克鲁尼没留下任何痕迹？  
So there's no trace left of Cluny?  

153  
00:09:05,960 --> 00:09:08,200  
肯定有遗骨在某处，  
Well, I'm sure there's a bone somewhere,  

154  
00:09:08,200 --> 00:09:10,200  
只是需要寻找。  
but it's a question of finding it.  

155  
00:09:12,600 --> 00:09:16,200  
深入麦克弗森领地，我来到名字暗示其历史的  
Moving further into Macpherson country, I head to the village  

156  
00:09:16,200 --> 00:09:19,600  
纽顿莫尔村——这座19世纪  
of Newtonmore which, as the name might suggest,  

157  
00:09:19,600 --> 00:09:24,000  
高地新城镇以石墙板岩屋顶的房屋为傲，  
was at one time a sort of 19th-century Highland new town  

158  
00:09:24,000 --> 00:09:27,600  
与它们取代的旧屋形成鲜明对比。  
boasting houses with stone walls and slate roofs,  

159  
00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:30,480  
a far cry from the houses they replaced.  

160  
00:09:32,320 --> 00:09:36,200  
村郊可见早期高地民居的  
On the outskirts of the village, it's possible to see examples  

161  
00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:38,920  
典型样本。  
of these earlier Highland dwellings.  

162  
00:09:38,920 --> 00:09:41,080  
占地数英亩的  
Set in several acres of land,  

163  
00:09:41,080 --> 00:09:44,800  
高地民俗博物馆重现了往昔风貌。  
Highland Folk Museum is the past reimagined.  

164  
00:09:46,280 --> 00:09:50,160  
多数房屋是根据考古证据  
Most of the houses here are reconstructions based on  

165  
00:09:50,160 --> 00:09:54,680  
和当时记载重建的，但其原始程度  
archaeological evidence and accounts from the time, but what strikes me  

166  
00:09:54,680 --> 00:09:57,200  
令人震惊。  
is just how primitive-looking they are.  

167  
00:09:57,200 --> 00:09:59,360  
简直像霍比特人的洞穴。  
It's almost like a hobbit house.  

168  
00:09:59,360 --> 00:10:03,880  
比如这些石墙和草皮填充的木框架，  
The walls here, for example, are made of stone and turf  

169  
00:10:03,880 --> 00:10:07,800  
支撑着华丽的茅草屋顶，  
infilling a frame of wood which supports this magnificent thatch  

170  
00:10:07,800 --> 00:10:12,200  
屋脊还覆盖着更多草皮。  
which, again, is topped off along the ridgeline with more turf.  

171  
00:10:15,160 --> 00:10:19,720  
这种基础设计延续数世纪未变。  
The basic design concept would not have changed for centuries.  

172  
00:10:19,720 --> 00:10:24,560  
铁器时代居民对这种房屋就很熟悉。  
Houses like this would have been familiar to people in the Iron Age.  

173  
00:10:24,560 --> 00:10:28,440  
但18-19世纪高地生活日益艰难，  
But in the 18th and 19th centuries, life in the Highlands became  

174  
00:10:28,440 --> 00:10:32,840  
先是詹姆斯党起义后的镇压，  
increasingly difficult, first with the repression of the people after  

175  
00:10:32,840 --> 00:10:36,880  
接着是清洗运动中的强制驱逐，  
the Jacobite risings, then the forced evictions of the clearances  

176  
00:10:36,880 --> 00:10:41,640  
最后竟是气候变化雪上加霜。  
and, finally, and surprisingly, through climate change.  

177  
00:10:41,640 --> 00:10:45,760  
18世纪一系列极端天气事件  
In the 18th century, a series of extreme weather events made life  

178  
00:10:45,760 --> 00:10:48,800  
使高地生活难以为继。  
in the Highlands almost intolerable.  

179  
00:10:48,800 --> 00:10:51,320  
冬季严寒刺骨，  
The winters became bitingly hard  

180  
00:10:51,320 --> 00:10:55,320  
秋日洪水滔天。  
and the autumnal floods were on a biblical scale.  

181  
00:10:55,320 --> 00:10:59,120  
引发连年饥荒，迫使人们背井离乡，  
Now, this caused a series of famines which provoked an exodus  

182  
00:10:59,120 --> 00:11:02,000  
当时报刊对此  
of people from the land and was written about  

183  
00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:03,680  
多有记载。  
in the press at the time.  

184  
00:11:05,120 --> 00:11:10,280  
1773年某报载："贫民缺粮处境凄惨，  
A newspaper report from 1773 says, "The poor people are  

185  
00:11:10,280 --> 00:11:14,040  
"竟靠反复放取牛血维生。  
"in the most piteous situation for want of meal.  

186  
00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:16,120  
"闻此等国度人口外流，  
"They are reduced to living on blood,  

187  
00:11:16,120 --> 00:11:20,040  
"何足为奇？"  
"which they draw from their cattle by repeated bleedings.  

188  
00:11:20,040 --> 00:11:23,720  
"Need we wonder to hear of emigrations from such a country?"  

189  
00:11:28,400 --> 00:11:31,760  
在高地村落重建区下游，  
Just downstream from the reconstructed Highland township,  

190  
00:11:31,760 --> 00:11:34,440  
鲁斯文兵营的森然废墟  
the gaunt ruins of Ruthven Barracks  

191  
00:11:34,440 --> 00:11:37,040  
俯瞰着斯佩河谷。  
dominate the landscape of Strathspey.  

192  
00:11:37,040 --> 00:11:41,640  
建于1715年詹姆斯党起义后，  
They were built in the aftermath of the 1715 Jacobite rising  

193  
00:11:41,640 --> 00:11:46,120  
1745年起义期间又成为军事焦点——  
and later became the focus for military action during the '45  

194  
00:11:46,120 --> 00:11:50,400  
查理王子领导了这场最终失败的起义。  
when Bonnie Prince Charlie led the final, failed rising.  

195  
00:11:52,960 --> 00:11:57,480  
1746年4月，卡洛登战役幸存者  
In April 1746, the Jacobite survivors of Culloden  

196  
00:11:57,480 --> 00:12:01,600  
在此集结等待领袖指令，  
regrouped here to await further orders from their leader,  

197  
00:12:01,600 --> 00:12:06,040  
但查理王子始终未至。  
Bonnie Prince Charlie, but Charlie never came.  

198  
00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:11,120  
只送来书信让众人各自寻求生路。  
Instead, he sent a letter asking every man to seek his own safety  

199  
00:12:11,120 --> 00:12:13,600  
in the best way that he could.  

200  
00:12:13,600 --> 00:12:16,680  
显然这意味着斯图亚特王朝复辟  
Now, it was clear from this that the hopes and dreams  

201  
00:12:16,680 --> 00:12:19,360  
的希望彻底破灭，  
of a Stuart restoration were finished  

202  
00:12:19,360 --> 00:12:22,320  
据说这个消息令人心碎。  
and the news, it's said, broke men's hearts.  

203  
00:12:26,720 --> 00:12:31,080  
这些历史事件的见证者中，有个叫  
Witnessing these great historical events was a small boy,  

204  
00:12:31,080 --> 00:12:34,480  
詹姆斯·麦克弗森的男孩，他在兵营旁的  
James Macpherson, who grew up in the village of Ruthven  

205  
00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:36,320  
鲁斯文村长大。  
beside the barracks.  

206  
00:12:36,320 --> 00:12:40,800  
二十多岁时，詹姆斯成为作家，开始重塑  
In his 20s, James became an author and began to reimagine  

207  
00:12:40,800 --> 00:12:44,120  
并神化自己的盖尔语世界。  
and to mythologise his own Gaelic-speaking world.  

208  
00:12:44,120 --> 00:12:50,240  
1760年，麦克弗森发表系列诗作，声称这些  
In 1760, Macpherson published a series of poems which he claimed  

209  
00:12:50,240 --> 00:12:55,080  
出自传奇凯尔特吟游诗人奥西恩之手——  
had been written centuries earlier by the legendary Celtic bard Ossian,  

210  
00:12:55,080 --> 00:12:58,760  
吉罗代名画中描绘的形象。  
depicted here in a famous painting by Girodet.  

211  
00:12:58,760 --> 00:13:02,200  
但麦克弗森的说法不尽属实。  
But Macpherson's claim wasn't entirely true.  

212  
00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:05,680  
杰拉尔丁·帕森斯向我解释他为何  
Geraldine Parsons tells me why he presented the poems  

213  
00:13:05,680 --> 00:13:08,320  
以虚假名义发表诗作。  
under false pretences.  

214  
00:13:08,320 --> 00:13:11,240  
杰拉尔丁，你认为麦克弗森创作奥西恩作品的动机，  
Geraldine, what do you think Macpherson's motivation was  

215  
00:13:11,240 --> 00:13:13,360  
重新诠释并虚构历史的  
in creating the works of Ossian,  

216  
00:13:13,360 --> 00:13:16,280  
目的是什么？  
reinterpreting and reinventing the past?  

217  
00:13:16,280 --> 00:13:17,960  
动机显然很复杂。  
There's obviously lots of motivations.  

218  
00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:20,040  
既有作为诗人的创作追求，  
So we can think of him with a creative agenda,  

219  
00:13:20,040 --> 00:13:22,400  
也包含为苏格兰盖尔人  
wanting to make a name for himself as a poet, but others would  

220  
00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:25,040  
重塑形象的意图。  
have been about rehabilitating the image of the Scottish Gael.  

221  
00:13:25,040 --> 00:13:28,080  
1745年起义后高压政策  
At a time when there had been quite repressive sort of measures  

222  
00:13:28,080 --> 00:13:30,520  
镇压高地盖尔人时期，  
taken against Highlanders, against Scottish Gaels  

223  
00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:35,080  
他表亲艾伦·麦克弗森六岁时  
in the wake of the '45, we have this very striking memory  

224  
00:13:35,080 --> 00:13:39,320  
目睹英军焚毁家园时  
from an Alan Macpherson, who is a cousin of our James Macpherson,  

225  
00:13:39,320 --> 00:13:43,000  
向红衣军投石的记忆  
aged six, talking about throwing stones at the redcoats  

226  
00:13:43,000 --> 00:13:44,760  
令人震撼。  
as they burned his family home.  

227  
00:13:46,200 --> 00:13:48,920  
童年创伤伴随麦克弗森  
The trauma of childhood stayed with Macpherson  

228  
00:13:48,920 --> 00:13:51,840  
青年时期游历赫布里底群岛，  
as he travelled the Hebrides as a young man,  

229  
00:13:51,840 --> 00:13:55,000  
收集民间故事与歌谣。  
collecting stories and songs from the people.  

230  
00:13:55,000 --> 00:13:57,760  
他将这些传说编织成诗，  
He wove these tales into a series of poems  

231  
00:13:57,760 --> 00:14:00,840  
帮助盖尔文化重获  
which helped to rehabilitate Gaelic culture  

232  
00:14:00,840 --> 00:14:03,720  
英国主流社会认可。  
in the eyes of the British establishment.  

233  
00:14:03,720 --> 00:14:07,480  
麦克弗森称作品是失传盖尔史诗的  
Macpherson described the work as a collection of fragments from  

234  
00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:10,760  
断章残篇，歌颂勇士奥西恩  
a long-lost Gaelic epic celebrating the virtues  

235  
00:14:10,760 --> 00:14:14,640  
与其父芬格尔的英勇。  
of the warriors Ossian and his father, Fingal.  

236  
00:14:14,640 --> 00:14:17,400  
他重塑这些传奇英雄，  
So he goes to these legendary heroes,  

237  
00:14:17,400 --> 00:14:21,280  
将传奇武士形象  
these legendary martial figures and reinvents them,  

238  
00:14:21,280 --> 00:14:22,960  
融入符合启蒙思想  
puts them into a sort of mode  

239  
00:14:22,960 --> 00:14:27,120  
的时尚表达。  
that's fashionable and palatable to Enlightenment thought.  

240  
00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:29,680  
但这本质上算是欺诈吧？  
But it was a fraud really, ultimately?  

241  
00:14:29,680 --> 00:14:32,160  
说欺诈是因为他声称：  
Well, it was a fraud to the extent that he says,  

242  
00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:36,480  
"我拥有古老的盖尔语史诗抄本，  
"I have an ancient Gaelic book, an epic, that is written down.  

243  
00:14:36,480 --> 00:14:38,480  
"它古老、盖尔、成文，  
"It's ancient, it's Gaelic, it's written  

244  
00:14:38,480 --> 00:14:40,200  
"我只是翻译而已。"  
"and all I'm doing is translating it."  

245  
00:14:40,200 --> 00:14:44,840  
这并非事实。尤其英格兰评论界  
And that wasn't true and, in particular, critics in England  

246  
00:14:44,840 --> 00:14:47,880  
出于对盖尔苏格兰的偏见，  
decided this can't be true, in part because of bias  

247  
00:14:47,880 --> 00:14:50,920  
认为苏格兰盖尔人不可能  
against Gaelic Scotland, they don't think that Scottish Gaels  

248  
00:14:50,920 --> 00:14:53,200  
创作出伟大文学。  
could have produced great literature.  

249  
00:14:53,200 --> 00:14:56,800  
真实情况是他基于真实传统，  
What is true is that he's dealing with authentic tradition,  

250  
00:14:56,800 --> 00:15:00,680  
但进行了创造性——或说不忠实——改编。  
but he's doing something creative - if you like, inauthentic - with it.  

251  
00:15:00,680 --> 00:15:03,120  
所以他做了类似汇编诠释，  
Right, so he's doing a sort of coal large version,  

252  
00:15:03,120 --> 00:15:07,080  
却冒充原作发表。  
an interpretation, but then passing it off as the real thing.  

253  
00:15:07,080 --> 00:15:11,000  
无论真假，麦克弗森的盖尔史诗  
Fake or not, Macpherson's Gaelic epic was a bestseller  

254  
00:15:11,000 --> 00:15:12,640  
风靡整个欧洲。  
throughout Europe.  

255  
00:15:12,640 --> 00:15:16,920  
据说拿破仑征战都随身携带奥西恩诗集。  
Napoleon, it's claimed, carried a copy of Ossian into battle.  

256  
00:15:16,920 --> 00:15:19,840  
麦克弗森因此致富，移居伦敦  
Macpherson made a fortune, moved to London  

257  
00:15:19,840 --> 00:15:23,720  
成为英国绅士，最终回到斯佩河畔  
and became an English gentleman before returning to the Spey  

258  
00:15:23,720 --> 00:15:27,160  
以英国权贵的身份离世。  
where he died a wealthy member of the British establishment.  

259  
00:15:29,600 --> 00:15:33,720  
麦克弗森对盖尔神话的早期重塑  
Macpherson's early rebranding of Gaelic myth has resounded  

260  
00:15:33,720 --> 00:15:38,160  
影响深远，塑造了后世对高地的认知方式。  
down the ages, colouring the way we look and respond to the Highlands.  

261  
00:15:38,160 --> 00:15:43,320  
他帮助创造了苏格兰狂野之心的浪漫意象，  
It helped to create the romantic ideal of Scotland's wild heart  

262  
00:15:43,320 --> 00:15:45,400  
吸引着全球游客  
which has drawn tourists and visitors  

263  
00:15:45,400 --> 00:15:47,560  
纷至沓来。  
from around the world ever since.  

264  
00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:55,240  
我从鲁斯文出发，沿着斯佩河前往其支流——  
My route from Ruthven follows the Spey towards a tributary,  

265  
00:15:55,240 --> 00:15:56,440  
费希河，  
the River Feshie,  

266  
00:15:56,440 --> 00:15:59,880  
这条河流经偏远而美丽的费希谷，  
which flows through beautiful and remote Glenfeshie  

267  
00:15:59,880 --> 00:16:03,240  
嶙峋的苏格兰松如哨兵般矗立在  
where gnarled Scots pines stand sentinel  

268  
00:16:03,240 --> 00:16:06,360  
砾石河岸与滩涂之上。  
over the gravel banks and river flats.  

269  
00:16:06,360 --> 00:16:10,600  
这景致令人心潮澎湃。两百年前，  
This is a truly inspiring landscape, and 200 years ago,  

270  
00:16:10,600 --> 00:16:14,840  
到访者就意识到这正是激发  
those who came here recognised that this was just the sort of place  

271  
00:16:14,840 --> 00:16:17,400  
另类世界想象的绝佳之地——  
to imagine a different kind of world,  

272  
00:16:17,400 --> 00:16:20,320  
一个充满爱情与浪漫的世界。  
a world of love and romance  

273  
00:16:20,320 --> 00:16:23,640  
就在这段河岸，有处废墟曾是  
and just along the river bank here are the ruins of a place  

274  
00:16:23,640 --> 00:16:26,840  
19世纪英国最声名狼藉的  
that became one of the most scandalous love nests  

275  
00:16:26,840 --> 00:16:28,640  
爱巢之一。  
in 19th-century Britain.  

276  
00:16:31,440 --> 00:16:34,480  
这段恋情的主角是天才画家  
The lovers in this story were the brilliant artist  

277  
00:16:34,480 --> 00:16:39,480  
埃德温·兰西尔与贝德福德公爵的第二任妻子乔治娜。  
Edwin Landseer and Georgina, the second wife of the Duke of Bedford.  

278  
00:16:39,480 --> 00:16:45,720  
他21岁，她42岁，热情聪慧充满活力。  
He was 21, she a lively, passionate and intelligent woman of 42.  

279  
00:16:45,720 --> 00:16:48,400  
两人相识于兰西尔受托为  
They met when Landseer was commissioned to paint  

280  
00:16:48,400 --> 00:16:49,720  
乔治娜绘制肖像时。  
Georgina's portrait.  

281  
00:16:50,840 --> 00:16:55,320  
成为恋人后，他们来到乔治娜在费希谷  
After they became lovers, they came to Glenfeshie where Georgina  

282  
00:16:55,320 --> 00:16:58,120  
建造的田园风艺术隐居所。  
had built a rustic, artistic hideaway.  

283  
00:16:59,760 --> 00:17:03,440  
在此他们得以逃离令人窒息的  
Here, they could escape from the suffocating constraints of  

284  
00:17:03,440 --> 00:17:07,400  
贵族社会束缚，她和朋友们可以  
aristocratic society, a place where she and her friends could come  

285  
00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:11,640  
演绎高度浪漫化的高地生活。  
to act out a highly romanticised version of Highland life.  

286  
00:17:17,040 --> 00:17:21,680  
这段恋情催生了高地题材中最具标志性的  
The love affair inspired one of the most iconic images ever created  

287  
00:17:21,680 --> 00:17:25,840  
画作——兰西尔的名作《幽谷之王》，  
of the Highlands, Landseer's famous Monarch Of The Glen,  

288  
00:17:25,840 --> 00:17:29,600  
在我看来，这幅画凝聚了画家对这片土地  
which, for me, epitomises the artist's deep passion  

289  
00:17:29,600 --> 00:17:34,320  
及引他至此的女子的炽热情感。  
for the landscape and for the woman who introduced him to it.  

290  
00:17:34,320 --> 00:17:38,720  
画家与公爵夫人的恋情引发轩然大波，  
The love between the artist and the duchess caused a scandal,  

291  
00:17:38,720 --> 00:17:42,240  
但这并非情欲，而是真情实感。  
but this was not lust, this was the real thing.  

292  
00:17:42,240 --> 00:17:45,280  
这是他们毕生挚爱。  
This was the love of their lives.  

293  
00:17:45,280 --> 00:17:48,480  
乔治娜为兰西尔生下女儿，  
Georgina bore Landseer's child, a daughter,  

294  
00:17:48,480 --> 00:17:53,360  
这段关系持续了三十年，直至乔治娜离世。  
and the relationship lasted for 30 years until Georgina died.  

295  
00:17:54,360 --> 00:17:57,600  
失去爱侣的兰西尔悲痛欲绝，  
Landseer was devastated by the loss of his lover,  

296  
00:17:57,600 --> 00:18:01,400  
日渐沉溺酒精药物寻求慰藉。  
turning increasingly to drink and drugs for solace.  

297  
00:18:01,400 --> 00:18:05,480  
他从未忘却对乔治娜的爱与共同岁月，  
He never forgot his love for Georgina and their life together,  

298  
00:18:05,480 --> 00:18:09,800  
但费希谷的爱巢如今仅余  
but of the Highlands love nest in Glenfeshie, there's nothing left  

299  
00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:14,760  
他们曾共住的高地小屋烟囱。  
except for the chimney stack of the Highland shack they once shared.  

300  
00:18:14,760 --> 00:18:19,480  
这个出人意料又感人至深的遗迹，  
It's an unlikely and surprisingly moving memorial to a love affair  

301  
00:18:19,480 --> 00:18:22,120  
纪念着当年惊世骇俗的恋情。  
that was the scandal of the age.  

302  
00:18:22,120 --> 00:18:25,760  
遗迹所剩无几，但烟囱上  
There's not much left of it, of course, but up there on the chimney,  

303  
00:18:25,760 --> 00:18:30,320  
仍可见屋顶与墙壁的接合痕迹，  
you can see where the roofline once joined the wall here  

304  
00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:34,520  
底部木挡板后方  
and down at the base, behind this wooden panel,  

305  
00:18:34,520 --> 00:18:37,680  
应是当年生火之处。  
is where they would have lit their fire.  

306  
00:18:37,680 --> 00:18:42,640  
在这无顶无墙的空间里，公爵夫人与画家  
Now, in this roofless and wall-less space, the duchess and the artist  

307  
00:18:42,640 --> 00:18:47,160  
曾在此生活相爱，某种意义上他们都重塑了世界——  
lived and loved in a world that both had reimagined, in a sense -  

308  
00:18:47,160 --> 00:18:51,720  
他用艺术，她以浪漫化的高地生活理念，  
he with his art and she with her romantic version of Highland life  

309  
00:18:51,720 --> 00:18:55,560  
如今一切已重归自然。  
and now, well, it's all gone back to nature.  

310  
00:18:58,200 --> 00:19:03,720  
费希谷正经历21世纪的重生。  
Glenfeshie is being reimagined in the 21st century.  

311  
00:19:03,720 --> 00:19:08,040  
这片狂野美景曾因疏于管理、过度放牧  
This wild and beautiful landscape was once endangered,  

312  
00:19:08,040 --> 00:19:12,600  
及栖息地丧失而濒危，  
a combination of neglect, overgrazing and the loss of habitat,  

313  
00:19:12,600 --> 00:19:16,160  
但如今正发生根本性转变。  
but all that is changing and changing radically.  

314  
00:19:17,640 --> 00:19:22,360  
在凛冽晨光中，我约见三万亩费希谷庄园的  
On a decidedly chilly morning, I meeting up with Thomas MacDonell,  

315  
00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:24,400  
生态保护主管  
who is the director of conservation  

316  
00:19:24,400 --> 00:19:27,960  
托马斯·麦克唐奈。  
on the 30,000 acre Glenfeshie estate.  

317  
00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:32,120  
他准备了全地形车作为考察交通工具。  
To get about, he's providing suitably robust transport.  

318  
00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:38,920  
我们驱车穿越河岸上方大片的  
The drive takes us through large areas of native pine forest  

319  
00:19:38,920 --> 00:19:40,240  
原生松林。  
above the river.  

320  
00:19:40,240 --> 00:19:44,840  
这是独特重要又脆弱的生态系统。  
This is a unique, important, but vulnerable habitat.  

321  
00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:49,040  
值得注意的是，这些树木在没有人工补种  
Significantly, the trees here are naturally regenerating  

322  
00:19:49,040 --> 00:19:54,120  
或防牧栏的情况下自然再生。  
without the aid of replanting or fencing to keep out grazing animals.  

323  
00:19:54,120 --> 00:19:57,400  
我们眼前这棵被称为"祖母松"的古树，  
So what we're looking at here is there's an old tree,  

324  
00:19:57,400 --> 00:19:58,760  
树龄约260年。  
referred to as a granny pine.  

325  
00:19:58,760 --> 00:20:02,400  
这是2006年拍摄的照片。  
Uh-huh? It would be 260 years old or thereabouts.  

326  
00:20:02,400 --> 00:20:05,400  
也就是16年前。照片里就是这棵祖母松，  
And this is a photograph from 2006.  

327  
00:20:05,400 --> 00:20:08,880  
如今周围突然冒出这么多幼苗。  
Right, so 16 years ago. And that's the granny pine, I'm taking it.  

328  
00:20:08,880 --> 00:20:12,520  
太神奇了。这些幼苗小树  
All of a sudden, we've just got this emergence of seedlings.  

329  
00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:13,560  
都源自一两棵古树，  
That's amazing.  

330  
00:20:13,560 --> 00:20:16,800  
简直是家族聚会。  
So all the seedlings here, all these wee saplings,  

331  
00:20:16,800 --> 00:20:21,000  
虽然不能确定亲缘关系，但它们都自然生长于此——  
have come from these one or two old trees, so they're all related.  

332  
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:22,480  
这转变确实振奋人心。  
This is a family affair.  

333  
00:20:22,480 --> 00:20:26,240  
继续考察途中，托马斯向我阐述费希谷  
I couldn't be sure about that, but they have come from how long  

334  
00:20:26,240 --> 00:20:29,360  
200年修复规划——他称之为"大教堂思维"。  
they've been in the soil and where... They've come from here  

335  
00:20:29,360 --> 00:20:31,080  
减少鹿群数量是森林再生  
because we haven't taken anything in,  

336  
00:20:31,080 --> 00:20:35,080  
及增强生态系统韧性的关键。  
so, yes, but it's really quite...  

337  
00:20:35,080 --> 00:20:38,280  
为展示野化成果，托马斯带我见证  
I find it quite inspirational actually. Uh-huh. Uh-huh.  

338  
00:20:38,280 --> 00:20:40,480  
河畔罕见而典型的高地生物集会。  
It's transformative, it really is.  

339  
00:20:42,760 --> 00:20:44,880  
距我们数米处，数只黑琴鸡  
As we continue our safari,  

340  
00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:49,240  
正摆开求偶阵势。  
Thomas tells me about the 200-year vision for Glenfeshie -  

341  
00:20:49,240 --> 00:20:52,120  
这就是著名的求偶场。  
his cathedral thinking, he calls it.  

342  
00:20:52,120 --> 00:20:56,360  
寒风中飘荡着奇特的咕噜声，  
Reducing deer numbers is key to allowing the forests to regenerate  

343  
00:20:56,360 --> 00:21:00,080  
雄鸟鼓胀羽毛不为吸引雌鸟，  
and the whole environment to become more robust  

344  
00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:04,000  
而为威慑对手。  
and better able to face the challenges of the future.  

345  
00:21:04,000 --> 00:21:07,600  
它们看似在角力，胜者获得  
To demonstrate the benefits of rewilding, Thomas invites me  

346  
00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:10,920  
与雌鸟交配的权利。  
to witness a rare but iconic Highland gathering  

347  
00:21:10,920 --> 00:21:13,400  
离开费希谷后，我重返斯佩河畔，  
which is taking place close to the river.  

348  
00:21:15,560 --> 00:21:19,240  
沿着连通阿维莫尔与马里海岸的  
Just a few metres from us and strategically arrayed  

349  
00:21:19,240 --> 00:21:23,760  
斯佩赛德小径前行。  
are several black grouse, the cocks ready to display.  

350  
00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:26,160  
在村庄里，我直奔火车站。  
This is the famous lek.  

351  
00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:28,240  
月台后方巨大的维多利亚式机车库  
You can just see the white flash there...  

352  
00:21:28,240 --> 00:21:30,920  
让人恍如穿越时空。  
Oh, I do. ..of the tail. And there's another one. Yeah, yeah.  

353  
00:21:30,920 --> 00:21:33,000  
对蒸汽机车爱好者而言，  
That's the males there, the black cocks.  

354  
00:21:34,320 --> 00:21:37,800  
这座工程宝库堪称圣地。  
The chill air is filled with an eerie burbling sound  

355  
00:21:37,800 --> 00:21:42,080  
斯特拉斯佩铁路公司运营的车间  
as the cocks puff themselves up not to impress the females  

356  
00:21:42,080 --> 00:21:44,680  
主要由热心志愿者团队管理。  
but to intimidate each other.  

357  
00:21:44,680 --> 00:21:47,840  
这条铁路继承了1960年代停运的  
Well, they do that. They seem to almost wrestle with each other  

358  
00:21:47,840 --> 00:21:50,320  
珀斯至因弗内斯蒸汽线路。  
and the one that survives gets the honour  

359  
00:21:50,320 --> 00:21:52,720  
服务三十余年的道格拉斯·斯科特  
of doing the business with the female.  

360  
00:21:52,720 --> 00:21:54,880  
对蒸汽机车充满热忱。  
So it's last man standing? Or last cock standing?  

361  
00:21:57,040 --> 00:21:59,680  
这座非凡车库建于1898年，  
They're enjoying the sunshine.  

362  
00:21:59,680 --> 00:22:01,120  
原用于机车更换与维护，  
It's a sign of spring.  

363  
00:22:04,000 --> 00:22:05,960  
可容纳16台蒸汽机车。  
Leaving the glen and the River Feshie,  

364  
00:22:05,960 --> 00:22:10,240  
作为斯特拉斯佩铁路的核心，  
I return to the River Spey where I follow the long-distance path,  

365  
00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:14,240  
志愿者们沿河保存了五英里轨道，  
the Speyside Way, which connects Aviemore to the Moray coast.  

366  
00:22:16,280 --> 00:22:19,560  
延续蒸汽时代的黄金岁月。  
In the village, I head straight to the station.  

367  
00:22:19,560 --> 00:22:24,160  
英国人对铁路，尤其是蒸汽机车遗产铁路  
Behind the platform is a huge Victorian shed.  

368  
00:22:24,160 --> 00:22:27,760  
有着永不满足的热爱，这完全情有可原。  
To walk inside to take a step into the past.  

369  
00:22:27,760 --> 00:22:31,640  
对蒸汽机车迷而言，这里是魔法殿堂，  
For steam enthusiasts, this is a magical place,  

370  
00:22:31,640 --> 00:22:35,200  
是机械艺术的万花筒。  
a cornucopia of engineering delights.  

371  
00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:38,400  
车间由斯特拉斯佩铁路公司运营，  
The workshop is run by the Strathspey Railway,  

372  
00:22:38,400 --> 00:22:44,400  
这个慈善机构主要由热忱的志愿者团队支撑。  
a charitable trust staffed mostly by a band of dedicated volunteers.  

373  
00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:48,400  
铁路接管了1960年代停运的  
The railway took over the old steam route from Perth to Inverness,  

374  
00:22:48,400 --> 00:22:51,600  
珀斯至因弗内斯的老蒸汽线路。  
which was axed in the 1960s.  

375  
00:22:51,600 --> 00:22:56,200  
道格拉斯·斯科特已在此服务三十余载。  
Douglas Scott has been helping the railway for the past 30 years or so.  

376  
00:22:56,200 --> 00:22:58,560  
他对蒸汽机车充满激情。  
He's passionate about steam.  

377  
00:22:58,560 --> 00:23:01,480  
这座非凡车库有何来历？  
What's the story behind this extraordinary shed?  

378  
00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:06,160  
高地铁路公司1898年建造了它，  
This shed was built in 1898 by the Highland Railway Company.  

379  
00:23:06,160 --> 00:23:10,720  
需要在因弗内斯与珀斯之间  
And they needed somewhere en route between Inverness  

380  
00:23:10,720 --> 00:23:14,000  
设立机车更换与维修站，  
and Perth where they could change engines and also where they could  

381  
00:23:14,000 --> 00:23:20,120  
于是建了这个可容纳16台机车的车库。  
maintain engines, so this shed was built to house 16 locomotives  

382  
00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:21,920  
of the day.  

383  
00:23:21,920 --> 00:23:26,160  
这座机车库是斯特拉斯佩铁路的核心，  
The locomotive shed is the heart of the Strathspey Railway  

384  
00:23:26,160 --> 00:23:29,240  
志愿者们沿河保存了五英里轨道，  
which has saved five miles of track along the river  

385  
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:34,440  
守护着蒸汽时代的黄金岁月。  
where volunteers and enthusiasts preserve the golden age of steam.  

386  
00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:38,160  
英国人对铁路怀有赤忱，  
People in the UK have a passion for railways,  

387  
00:23:38,160 --> 00:23:40,320  
尤其钟情遗产铁路，  
particularly for heritage railways  

388  
00:23:40,320 --> 00:23:43,440  
特别是仍运营蒸汽机车的  
and particularly for heritage railways that are operated  

389  
00:23:43,440 --> 00:23:45,040  
遗产铁路。  
with steam engines.  

390  
00:23:45,040 --> 00:23:48,600  
他们永远看不够。这完全可以理解。  
They can't get enough of them. Well, understandably so.  

391  
00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:50,280  
这些是精妙的机械杰作。  
I mean, they are wonderful machines.  

392  
00:23:50,280 --> 00:23:54,880  
煤炭与水让这些铁疙瘩蜕变为  
I mean, they're transformed by coal and water from lumps of dead iron  

393  
00:23:54,880 --> 00:23:57,440  
呼吸着的活机械。这就是魔法。  
to a living, breathing machine. That's the magic.  

394  
00:23:57,440 --> 00:24:02,920  
它们凝聚着元素之力——火、水与汗水。  
Yes, they're very elemental - fire and water and sweat.  

395  
00:24:02,920 --> 00:24:07,200  
汗水虽廉价，但仅靠它无法维持铁路运营。  
Sweat is cheap, but it's not enough to keep the railway going.  

396  
00:24:07,200 --> 00:24:11,160  
每次全面检修这些巨兽，  
It costs somewhere in the region of a quarter of a million pounds  

397  
00:24:11,160 --> 00:24:15,760  
都要耗费约25万英镑。  
every time one of these beasts gets a full service.  

398  
00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:18,760  
铁路虽主要依靠志愿者，  
Although the railway is mostly staffed by volunteers,  

399  
00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:23,200  
但也有20名全职员工和若干学徒。  
it has 20 full-time employees and several apprentices.  

400  
00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:25,000  
肖娜·麦克唐纳就是其中一员。  
Seonagh Macdonald is one of them.  

401  
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:27,400  
- 保罗你好 - 我很好谢谢  
Hi, Paul. How were you doing? I'm good, thanks.  

402  
00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:28,920  
你在做什么？焊接吗？  
What are you doing? Is that welding?  

403  
00:24:28,920 --> 00:24:30,400  
是的，这是MIG焊，  
Yeah, it's a bit of MIG welding,  

404  
00:24:30,400 --> 00:24:32,360  
正在练习基本功。  
just getting a wee bit of practice in.  

405  
00:24:32,360 --> 00:24:34,680  
我从没见过这么多蒸汽机车  
Well, I don't think I've seen so many steam engines  

406  
00:24:34,680 --> 00:24:38,440  
集中在同一屋檐下，还都是拆解状态。  
under one roof together before and so many in bits.  

407  
00:24:38,440 --> 00:24:40,960  
它们真能重新组装吗？  
Are these actually ever going to get back together again?  

408  
00:24:40,960 --> 00:24:42,400  
当然可以。  
Yeah, they will do.  

409  
00:24:42,400 --> 00:24:46,520  
有台机车刚拆解准备翻新，  
One of the engines has just been kind of taken apart to get redone.  

410  
00:24:46,520 --> 00:24:49,080  
锅炉就在那边。  
The boiler's actually there for it.  

411  
00:24:49,080 --> 00:24:52,000  
肖娜与这些机械巨兽的缘分  
Seonagh has been close to these magnificent machines  

412  
00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:53,480  
比多数人都要长久。  
for longer than most.  

413  
00:24:53,480 --> 00:24:55,280  
铁路几乎流淌在她的血液里。  
They are almost in her blood.  

414  
00:24:56,440 --> 00:24:59,680  
我从小住在铁路旁边，  
Where I live, actually, where I grew up, it's actually right by  

415  
00:24:59,680 --> 00:25:03,640  
每天都能看到火车经过，  
the railway, so we saw the trains passing, like, everyday apart  

416  
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:06,560  
除了停运的日子。街坊小孩们  
from when they weren't on, so you get some of the kids in our street  

417  
00:25:06,560 --> 00:25:08,880  
常和火车赛跑。  
trying to race the train.  

418  
00:25:06,560 --> 00:25:08,880  
[笑声]  
LAUGHTER  

419  
00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:11,840  
记不清他们是否赢过，  
I can't actually remember if they actually managed to beat it  

420  
00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:13,320  
但总会尝试。  
or not, but they would try it.  

421  
00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:21,960  
今天，1899年制造的828号机车  
Today, the magnificent 828 locomotive, which dates from 1899,  

422  
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:26,120  
已蒸汽升腾，蓄势待发。  
is all steamed up, ready and raring to go.  

423  
00:25:26,120 --> 00:25:30,280  
道格拉斯邀我体验司炉工作，  
Douglas invites me to lend a hand shovelling coal into the boiler,  

424  
00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:33,440  
向锅炉添煤的传统职责。  
traditionally the job of the fireman.  

425  
00:25:33,440 --> 00:25:38,120  
从前从珀斯到因弗内斯的旅程中，  
How much coal would a fireman be expected to shovel into the boiler?  

426  
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:43,680  
司炉要添多少煤？  
On a journey, say, from Perth to Inverness in the old days?  

427  
00:25:43,680 --> 00:25:46,080  
呃...珀斯到因弗内斯？  
Oh... Perth to Inverness?  

428  
00:25:46,080 --> 00:25:50,320  
干线大机车大约需要八吨。  
With a big, main line engine, I would reckon about eight tonnes.  

429  
00:25:50,320 --> 00:25:52,200  
八吨？约八吨煤。  
Eight tonnes? About eight tonnes of coal.  

430  
00:25:52,200 --> 00:25:54,480  
耗时多久？三小时？  
Over what duration? Three hours or something?  

431  
00:25:54,480 --> 00:25:56,680  
差不多，是极其繁重的工作。  
About that, yeah, yeah, about that. Backbreaking work.  

432  
00:25:56,680 --> 00:26:00,080  
确实。可怜的司炉全程都得站着。  
Absolutely, yes. Yes, the poor old fireman didn't sit down.  

433  
00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:02,640  
从因弗内斯发车到  
From when the train left Inverness  

434  
00:26:02,640 --> 00:26:05,560  
翻越德鲁奥赫特山巅，  
till they came over the top at Drumochter,  

435  
00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:07,440  
他连坐下休息的机会都没有。  
he was on his feet the whole time.  

436  
00:26:07,440 --> 00:26:11,120  
肯定累垮了。司炉是必经阶段吗？  
He'd be knackered. Was being a fireman kind of rite of passage?  

437  
00:26:11,120 --> 00:26:14,600  
必须先当司炉才能成为司机？  
Did you have to be a fireman before you could be a driver?  

438  
00:26:14,600 --> 00:26:18,640  
司机从机车清洁工起步，再晋升学习司炉，  
A driver started as an engine cleaner, then he was promoted  

439  
00:26:18,640 --> 00:26:22,680  
然后成为正式司炉，  
to begin to learn how to fire, then he would be promoted to an actual  

440  
00:26:22,680 --> 00:26:27,360  
再到可参与驾驶的资深司炉，  
fireman, then to a past fireman when he be able to do some driving,  

441  
00:26:27,360 --> 00:26:32,000  
最终约25年后才能成为司机。  
and finally, probably after about 25 years, he's become a driver.  

442  
00:26:32,000 --> 00:26:33,400  
25年？ 是的。 
25 years? Yeah.  

443  
00:26:33,400 --> 00:26:35,760  
所以司机是职业金字塔的顶端。   
So you're the driver, you're at the pinnacle of the pyramid.  

444  
00:26:35,760 --> 00:26:37,280  
- 当然  
Oh, absolutely, yeah, yeah.  

445  
00:26:37,280 --> 00:26:38,640  
- 我清楚自己的位置！ 
I know my place!  

446  
00:26:38,640 --> 00:26:41,360  
- 我生来就是铲煤的命   
I live to shovel.  

447  
00:26:41,360 --> 00:26:43,640  
是的  
Yep.  

448  
00:26:41,360 --> 00:26:43,640  
[铁铲碰撞声] 
SHOVEL CLINKS  

449  
00:26:43,640 --> 00:26:47,160  
听见铲子的声响了吗？  
Oh. Did you hear the noise the shovel made? I did.  

450  
00:26:47,160 --> 00:26:48,920  
听到了，很悦耳，像高尔夫击球。  
It was sweet, wasn't it? It's like a golf shot.  

451
00:26:48,920 --> 00:26:52,880
就像你完美击出高尔夫球时，球杆会"嗖"地一声响，
It's like when you hit a golf shot properly, the shovel goes zing

452
00:26:52,880 --> 00:26:56,000
告诉你时机把握得恰到好处。
and tells you that your timing's perfect.

453
00:26:56,000 --> 00:27:00,640
虽然这话听着受用，但我打高尔夫比当消防员还差劲，
Flattering words, but I'm an even worse golfer than a fireman,

454
00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:04,960
所以我把脏活累活留给狂热分子，自己则选择
so I leave the grubby work to the enthusiasts and choose instead

455
00:27:04,960 --> 00:27:08,760
在机车后方的头等车厢里找个位置。
to find a place in the first class carriage behind the locomotive.

456  
00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:12,760  
[汽笛声]  
BLOWS WHISTLE  

457  
00:27:17,240 --> 00:27:20,520  
当蒸汽列车沿着壮丽的斯佩河行驶，  
As we steam alongside the glorious River Spey,  

458  
00:27:20,520 --> 00:27:24,680  
我欣然践行着那句老话"让火车承担劳顿"。  
I'm happy to let the train take the strain, as they used to say.  

459  
00:27:27,120 --> 00:27:30,880  
这段轨道曾是北方干线的一部分，  
The track we're running along was once part of the old mainline  

460  
00:27:30,880 --> 00:27:35,520  
如今我们最远只能到达布鲁姆希尔，  
to the north, but today, we can only travel as far as Broomhill,  

461  
00:27:35,520 --> 00:27:38,880  
距阿维莫尔仅几英里。  
just a few miles up the line from Aviemore.  

462  
00:27:38,880 --> 00:27:42,960  
斯特拉斯佩铁路公司雄心勃勃，计划将线路  
The Strathspey Railway have got ambitious plans to extend the line  

463  
00:27:42,960 --> 00:27:45,320  
延伸至斯佩河畔格兰敦。  
all the way to Grantown-on-Spey.  

464  
00:27:45,320 --> 00:27:48,600  
或许有朝一日真能实现，  
Who knows? Perhaps, one day, they will.  

465  
00:27:48,600 --> 00:27:50,040  
我衷心期待。  
I certainly hope so.  

466  
00:27:52,280 --> 00:27:55,200  
维多利亚蒸汽火车的魔法之旅  
All too soon, the magical experience  

467  
00:27:55,200 --> 00:27:58,840  
转瞬即逝。  
of riding on a Victorian steam train is over.  

468  
00:27:58,840 --> 00:28:02,120  
列车驶入布鲁姆希尔，  
We pull into Broomhill and it's time to leave the train  

469  
00:28:02,120 --> 00:28:04,000  
是时候告别道格拉斯了。  
and to say goodbye to Douglas.  

470  
00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:10,720  
这座风景如画的小站是列车目前的终点，  
This picturesque wee station is as far as the train can take me,  

471  
00:28:10,720 --> 00:28:14,880  
但斯佩河仍将奔流50英里入海，  
for the time being at least, but the River Spey continues on for  

472  
00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:20,440  
这里正是我结束斯佩河大巡礼  
another 50 miles or so to the open sea, making this the ideal place  

473  
00:28:20,440 --> 00:28:24,040  
第一阶段的理想地点。  
for me to end the first leg of my grand tour  

474  
00:28:24,040 --> 00:28:26,000  
down the magnificent Spey.  

475  
00:28:28,920 --> 00:28:33,600  
下期旅程，我将继续沿丰饶的斯佩河  
On my next grand tour, I'll be continuing my journey to the sea  

476  
00:28:33,600 --> 00:28:35,960  
向着大海进发。  
down the abundant River Spey.